View original document

The full text on this page is automatically extracted from the file linked above and may contain errors and inconsistencies.

<£c*Z>-J

Industry Wage Survey:
Women’s and Misses’ Dresses,
August 1977
U.S. Department of Labor
Bureau of Labor Statistics
1979
Bulletin 2007







Industry Wage Survey:
Women’s and Misses’ Dresses,
August 1977
U.S. Department of Labor
Ray Marshall, Secretary
Bureau of Labor Statistics
Janet L. Norwood
Acting Commissioner

February 1979

Bulletin 2007




For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U .S. Government Printing Office
Washington, D .C . 20402 - Price $1.20
Stock Number 029-001-02275-1




Preface
This bulletin summarizes the results of a Bureau ol" Labor Statistics survey of wages and
supplementary benefits in the women’s and misses’ dress industry in August 1977.
Separate releases were issued earlier for the 13 areas covered by the survey. Copies of these
releases are available from the Bureau of Labor Statistics, Washington, D.C. 20212, or from any
of its regional offices.
This study was conducted in the Bureau’s Office of Wages and Industrial Relations. Mary Kay
Rieg of the Division of Occupational Wage Structures prepared the analysis. Field work for the
survey was directed by the Bureau’s Assistant Regional Commissioners for Operations.
Other reports available from the Bureau’s program of industry wage studies, as well as the
addresses of the Bureau’s regional offices, are listed at the end of this bulletin.
Material in this publication is in the public domain and may be reproduced without permission
of the Federal Government. Please credit the Bureau of Labor Statistics and cite Industry Wage
Survey: Women’ and Misses’ Dresses, August 1977, Bulletin 2007.
s




iii




Contents
Page
S um m ary............................................................................................................................................................................
Industry characteristics ....................................................................................................................................................
Employment and production ..................................................................................................................................
Size of shop ..............................................................................................................................................................
Type of s h o p ..............................................................................................................................................................
Occupation and sex ..................................................................................................................................................
Method of wage p a y m e n t........................................................................................................................................
Unionization ..............................................................................................................................................................
Average hourly earnings ..................................................................................................................................................
Occupational e a rn in g s......................................................................................................................................................
Establishment practices and supplementary wage provisions .....................................................................................
Scheduled weekly hours ..........................................................................................................................................
Paid holidays ............................................................................................................................................................
Health, welfare, and vacation benefits ...................................................................................................................
Supplementary unemployment benefits .................................................................................................................
Temporary disability benefits..................................................................................................................................
Retirement plans ......................................................................................................................................................

1
1
1
2
2
2
2
3
3
3
4
4
4
4
5
5
5

Text tables:
1. Distribution of dress firms and workers by wholesale unit price ...............................................................
2. Distribution of area dress employment by size of shop ...............................................................................
3. Distribution of area dress employment by type of shop .............................................................................
4. Middle range of earnings for dress workers by a r e a .....................................................................................
5. Earnings distribution of cutters and markers and sewing-machine
operators, section system, Los Angeles-Long Beach ...................................................................................

4

Reference tables:
Occupational earnings:
1. Boston, Mass................................................................................................................................................
2. Chicago, 1 (Cook County) .....................................................................................................................
11.
3. Dallas-Ft. Worth, Tex................................................................................................................................
4. Fall River and New Bedford, Mass.-R.1..................................................................................................
5. Los Angeles-Long Beach, Calif.................................................................................................................
6. Miami, Fla....................................................................................................................................................
7. Newark and Jersey City, N .J......................................................................................................................
8. New York City, N.Y.— shops...............................................................................................................
All
9. New York City, N.Y.—
Regular andcutting shops .....................................................................................
10. New York City, N.Y.— Contract shops .................................................................................................
11. Paterson-Clifton-Passaic, N .J............................
12. Philadelphia, Pa.-N .J..................................................................................................................................
13. St. Louis, M o.-Ill...............................................................................
14. Wilkes-Barre—
Hazleton, Pa.............................................................................................................................
15. South Carolina ..........................................................................................................................................

6
7
8
9
10
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21

1
2
2
3

Establishment practices and supplementary wage provisions:
16. Method of wage payment ......................................................................................................................... 22
17. Scheduled weekly h o u r s ............................................................................................................................. 22
18. Paid ho lid ay s.............................................................................................................................................. 23



v

Contents—Continued
Reference tables— Continued
Establishment practices and supplementary wage provisions— Continued

Page

19. Health, welfare, and vacation benefits ................................................................................................... 23
20. Retirement p la n s ......................................................................................................................................... 25
Appendixes:
A. Regression analysis .................................................................................................................................... 26
B. Scope and method of survey ..................................................................................................................... 29
C. Occupational descriptions .........................
31




>

i

V
I

Women’s and Misses’ Dresses, August 1977
Summary

Text table 1. Distribution of dress firms and workers by whole­
sale unit price

Hourly earnings of production and related workers in
the women’s and misses’ dress industry varied widely
among 13 major dress centers surveyed in August 1977 by
the Bureau of Labor Statistics.1 Average straight-time
hourly earnings ranged from $5.22 in New York City,
where about two-fifths of the workers were employed, to
$2.89 in South Carolina. Averages of $4.50 or more were
reported in Chicago ($4.50) and Newark-Jersey City
($4.74). Within most areas, a wide distribution of
individual earnings existed, largely because of the
extensive use of piece-rate systems and the broad range of
skills in the industry
Among occupations studied separately,2 cutters and
markers, pressers, and machine adjusters were usually the
highest paid; thread trimmers and work distributors were
usually lowest paid. Sewing-machine operators, consti­
tuting slightly more than half the work force, were by far
the largest occupational group. Those responsible for
sewing operations on a complete garment (single-hand
system) usually averaged about 10 to 20 percent more
than those sewing only parts or sections of a garment.
About two-thirds of the workers in the 13 areas
combined were employed in shops which had collective
bargaining agreements covering a majority of their
workers; almost all contracts were made with the
International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union
(ILGWU). These agreements included, besides wages,
provisions for paid vacations, various types of health and
welfare benefits, retirement pensions, and supplementary
unemployment benefits.

Wholesale price per unit
Under $6.75........................................
$6.75 and under $12.75......................
$12.75 and under $22.50 ..................
$22.50 and under $ 4 9 .......................
$49 and over ......................................
'Less than 5 percent.

and 1977 studies6 decreased by about 15,700, or 23
percent. The largest percentage declines were recorded in
Miami (51 percent), and Philadelphia (40 percent);
declines of 33 to 36 percent were reported for Boston,
Newark and Jersey City, New York City, and St. Louis.
Employment in the Fall River-New Bedford area
remained approximately the same between 1974 and
1977, while the number of production workers in Los
Angeles-Long Beach increased by 20 percent.
Continued fashion trends toward informal wear (e.g.,
sportswear), combined with economic uncertainty, may
have led to cutbacks in dress production. Domestic
production of women’s and misses’dresses was about 18
percent lower in 1977 than in 1974. The overall decline
reflected a 15-percent drop in unit-priced garments and a
24-percent decline in production of dozen-priced dresses.7
Four-fifths or more of the production workers in each
area were in shops using a unit price as the predominant
wholesale pricing system. The most common wholesale
price per unit among the areas in August 1977 was be­
tween $12.75 and $22.50 (text table 1).
'See appendix B for scope and method of survey. Earnings data
presented in this bulletin exclude premium pay for overtime and for
work on weekends, holidays, and late shifts. These surveys, based on a
representative sample of establishments, are designed to measure the
level of occupational earnings at a particular time. Thus, comparisons
made with previous studies may not reflect expected wage movements
because of changes in the sample composition and shifts in employment
among establishments with different pay levels.
2See appendix C for job descriptions.

Industry characteristics

Employment and production. The 13-area survey covered
slightly more than one-third of the 144,100 production
and related workers estimated to be employed in women’s
and misses’ dress manufacturing (nationwide) at the time
of the study.3 Production employment, as reported in the
13 survey areas,4 ranged from fewer than 800 workers in
Boston (612), St. Louis (712), and Cook County, Chicago
(734) to about 20,000 in New York City. The next three
largest dress centers studied were Los Angeles-Long
Beach (7,744), Wilkes-Barre—
Hazleton (5,819), and Fall
River-New Bedford (4,165). (See appendix table B-l.)
Since the August 1974 survey,5 aggregate employment
of production workers in the 12 areas common to the 1974



Percent of
Percent of all
all firms production workers
1
5
17
17
34
34
28
26
17
18

^Nationwide employment as reported in the Bureau’s monthly
periodical Employment and Earnings.
4The survey excluded shops with fewer than 8 employees.
5For an account of the 1974 study, see Industry Wage Survey:
Women’ and Misses’ Dresses, August 1974, Bulletin 1908 (Bureau of
s
Labor Statistics, 1976).
6South Carolina was surveyed for the first time in 1977.
1Current Industrial Reports, Apparel Survey, Series M23H,1974 and
1977 (estimated), Bureau of the Census.
1

Occupation and sex. Sewing-machine operators, numer­
ically the most important of the selected occupations,
made up slightly more than one-half of the production
workers in the 13 areas combined. They were two-thirds
of the work force in the Paterson area, compared with
slightly less than one-half in Boston, Chicago, and St.
Louis, and between one-half and three-fifths in the
remaining areas*.

Text table 2. Distribution of area dress employment by size of
shop____________________ _____________

Percent of production workers in
shops with—
Fewer than
50
employees

Area
Boston........................................
Chicago......................................
Dallas-Ft. W orth........................
F a ll R iv e r - N e w B e d fo r d

Los Angeles-Long Beach .......
M iami..........................................
N e w a r k -J e r s e y C it y

..............

New York C ity...........................
Paterson-Clifton-Passaic.........
Philadelphia...............................
St. L o u is....................................
Wilkes-Barre—Hazleton...........
South Carolina..........................

100
50 to 99 employees
employees or more

22
42
17
( ’>
78
72
61
81
81
10
11
31

( ’)

38
13
20
21
11
13
20
16
19
56
21
51
11

41
45
63
76
11
15
19
(’ )
33
68
18
86

Sewing-machine operators were about evenly divided
between those under the single-hand (tailor) system, in
which an operator performs all or most of the sewing
operations necessary to complete a garment and those
under the section system, in which sewing is limited to a
specific part or parts of a garment. Single-hand operators
are generally highly skilled and they work on types of
apparel in which the variety of design is so great and style
changes so frequent as to preclude the economical use of a
section system. Among the areas, the proportion of
workers employed under the two systems varied
substantially. For example, section system sewers ranged
from virtually all operators in Wilkes-Barre-Hazleton,
Fall River-New Bedford, and South Carolina to about 20
percent in New York City. No other occupation studied
accounted for more than about 5 percent of the
production worker total in the 13 areas combined.
Women made up a majority of workers in all jobs
studied, except sewing-machine adjuster, cutter and
marker, and machine presser. However, exceptions to
this staffing pattern were noted. For example, in New
York City, about nine-tenths of the hand pressers were
men. Overall, women accounted for slightly more than 8
in every 10 of the over 50,000 production workers in the
survey. Among the areas, the proportion of women
ranged from three-fourths in New York City to over ninetenths in Boston, Miami, Paterson-Clifton-Passaic,
Wilkes-Barre—
Hazleton, and South Carolina.

—

'Less than 5 percent.
NOTE: Because of rounding, sums of individual items may not equal 100.
Size o f shop. In the 13 areas combined, nearly three-fifths
of the production workers were employed in shops with
fewer than 50 employees, compared with one-fifth each in
shops with 50 to 99 workers and with 100 workers or
more. Substantial differences, however, were found
between the individual areas (text table 2).

Type o f shop. Three types of shops were included in the
survey: (1) Regular or “inside” shops, which own the
materials and perform all or most of the manufacturing
operations; (2) contract shops, which process materials
owned (and frequently cut) by others; and (3) jobbing
shops, which contract put most manufacturing opera­
tions, but may perform some of them, such as cutting,
finishing, or packing and shipping (text table 3).

Text table 3. Distribution of area dress employment by type of
shop_____________________ ____________ ________________ __

Method o f wage payment. The proportion of workers
paid under an incentive system, typically individual piece
rates, was about three-fifths for the 13 dress centers
combined. It ranged from about two-fifths in Boston,
Dallas-Ft. Worth, and Miami to nearly three-fourths in
Paterson-Clifton-Passaic and South Carolina (table 16).
Among time-rated workers, informal systems, in which
rates are based primarily on the qualifications of
individual workers, applied to most of the workers in 11
areas. In Chicago and St. Louis, formal systems
providing ranges of rates for specific occupations were
more prevalent.
In most areas, the majority of sewing-machine
operators, hand pressers, and hand-and-machine pressers
were paid incentive rates. Except in a few areas, time rates
applied to most workers in the following occupations:
Sewing-machine adjuster, assorter, cutter and marker,
final inspector, thread trimmer, and work distributor.

Percent of production workers
employed in—
Regular (inside)
shops

Area
Boston........................................
Chicago......................................
Dallas-Ft. W orth........................
F a ll R iv e r - N e w B e d fo r d

Los Angeles-Long B each.......
M iami..........................................
N e w a r k -J e r s e y C it y

..............

New York C ity...........................
Paterson-Clifton-Passaic.........
Philadelphia...............................
St. L o u is ....................................
Wilkes-Barre—Hazleton...........
South Carolina.........................

41
65
79
27
19
39
21
12
—
47
90
—
52

Contract Jobbing
shops
shops
_
59
26
9
14
7
73
—
64
17
54
7
(’)
75
70
18
—
(2 )
50
(
—’ )
10
(2)
( ’)
48

'Less than 5 percent.
2Above 95 percent.
NOTE: Because of rounding, sums of individual items may not equal 100.



2

Unionization. Establishments operating under labormanagement agreements employed two-thirds of the
production workers in the survey. The proportion of
workers in shops with such coverage accounted for 90
percent or more in seven areas, 88 percent in New York
City, 57 percent in Boston, 36 percent in South Carolina,
11 percent in Miami, and 5 percent or less in Dallas-Ft.
Worth and Los Angeles-Long Beach. Nearly all
agreements were with the International Ladies’Garment
Workers’ Union (AFL-CIO).

Text table 4. Middle range of earnings for dress workers by area

Area
Boston.....................................................
Chicago...................................................
Dallas......................................................
Fall River-New Bedford.......................
Los Angeles-Long Beach....................
Miami.......................................................
Newark-Jersey C ity...............................
New York C ity........................................
Paterson-Clifton-Passaic ....................
Philadelphia............................................
St. Louis.................................................
Wilkes-Barre—Hazleton.......................
South Carolina......................................

First quartile Third quartile
$3.21
$4.84
3.31
5.31
2.58
3.50
3.49
4.72
2.60
3.72
2.56
3.42
3.64
5.38
3.79
6.15
3.27
4.40
3.32
4.97
3.59
4.71
3.43
4.11
2.48
3.16
NOTE: One-fourth of the workers were below the first quartile and onefourth were above the third quartile.

Average hourly earnings

Average hourly earnings of all production workers in
the August 1977 survey ranged from $5.22 in New York
City to $2.89 in South Carolina. Hourly pay levels of
$4.50 or more were reported in Chicago and Newark,
while averages of under $3.50 were reported in Dallas-Ft.
Worth, Los Angeles, and Miami. (See tables 1-15.)
While New York City recorded the highest average in
the 1974 and 1977 surveys, its increase in earnings ranked
below 8 of the 11 other areas studied in both years.
Between August 1974 and August 1977, wage levels in
New York’s dress industry advanced 14 percent, com­
pared with 29 percent in Chicago, and between 17 and
23 percent in seven other areas. Average earnings in WilkesBarre—
Hazleton, and Miami rose at about the same pace
as in New York and at the slowest rate- 4 percent— Paterin
son-Clifton-Passaic.

$2.30 (the Federal minimum wage in August 1977) and
$2.60 an hour accounted for 38 percent of the work force
in South Carolina, 29 percent in Miami, 27 percent in
Dallas-Ft. Worth, and 25 percent in Los Angeles-Long
Beach; in contrast, 6 percent or less of the workers in each
of the remaining areas were within 30 cents of the Federal
minimum. At the upper end of the scale, workers earning
at least $6 an hour represented about 27 percent of the
work force in New York City, 15-20 percent in Chicago
and Newark, and between 9 and 13 percent in Boston, St.
Louis, Philadelphia, and Paterson-Clifton-Passaic. In
the remaining areas, such workers constituted 6 percent
or less of the total work force. Within each area, the range
of individual earnings was wide, reflecting the extensive
use of piece-rate systems and the broad range of skills in
the industry. (See text table 4.)

In each area, men as a group averaged more than
women. Their earnings advantage usually averaged
between 20 and 50 percent, ranging from 17 percent in
Philadelphia to 93 percent in Paterson-Clifton-Passaic.
Differences in the level of earnings between men and
women resulted largely from the uneven distribution of
the sexes among jobs with disparate pay levels. For
example, in the Paterson area, men averaged $7.39,
compared with $3.83 for women, but nearly all the men
worked as cutters and markers or hand pressers,
averaging $6.57 and $7.95 an hour, respectively. Women,
on the other hand, were employed primarily as sewingmachine operators and hand sewers, jobs that paid
substantially less. Differences in average pay levels for
men and women also may stem from several other factors,
including the distribution of the sexes among establish­
ments with disparate pay levels. Differences noted in
averages for men and women in the same job and area
may reflect minor differences in duties as well. Job
descriptions used in classifying workers in wage surveys
usually are more generalized than those used in individual
establishments, to allow for possible minor differences
among establishments in specific duties performed. Also,
as noted previously, earnings for some jobs in the industry
are determined by production at piece rates.
Concentration of workers in the earnings array varied
substantially among the areas. Workers earning between



The basic survey tabulations did not attempt to isolate
and measure any of the preceding characteristics, such as
type of sewing system, as individual determinants of wage
levels. Appendix A of this bulletin, however, presents a
brief technical note on the results of a multiple regression
analysis in which the effects of individual characteristics
were isolated to a measurable degree. In several cases, the
differentials produced by comparing published averages
for various characteristics were markedly dissimilar from
those derived by multiple regression. For example,
sewing-machine operators on the single-hand (tailor)
system in New York averaged 19 percent more than those
on the section system, but apparently only one-half of this
differential can be attributed solely to type of sewing
system. Evidently, other factors, such as type of shop or
price of garment, had a significant impact on the
differential.
Occupational earnings

Twelve occupations were selected to represent the
various wage levels and skills of production workers and
manufacturing occupations in the industry. Their
incumbents accounted for at least three-fifths of all
production workers in each area. Of these occupations,

3

cutters and markers, predominantly men and typically
paid time rates, were the highest paid in six areas. They
averaged from $4.20 an hour in South Carolina to $7.61
in New York City. Highest paid elsewhere were: Hand
pressers in Newark and Jersey City ($7.98), New York
City ($9.13), and Paterson-Clifton-Passaic ($7.69);
sewing-machine adjusters, in Fall River-New Bedford
($6.40), Wilkes-Barre—
Hazleton ($6.40), and South
Carolina ($5.48); and machine pressers, in Boston ($8.97).
Thread trimmers, typically women and usually paid time
rates, had averages ranging from $2.60 in Miami to $4.19
in St. Louis. They were lowest paid in six areas. Average
hourly earnings of final inspectors, also relatively lowpaid, ranged from $2.84-$2.86 in Dallas-Ft. Worth, Los
Angeles-Long Beach, and South Carolina to $4.60 in
New York City.
Earnings of individual workers varied substantially
within the same job and area because of differences in pay
rates among establishments visited and the extensive use
of piece-rate systems. In many instances, the highest
hourly earnings exceeded the lowest by $3 an hour or
more. Thus, a number of workers in comparatively lowpaying jobs earned as much as, or more than, some
workers in jobs with significantly higher hourly averages.
As text table 5 illustrates, there was a substantial overlap
in Los Angeles-Long Beach between cutters and markers
and sewing-machine operators on the section system
despite the large difference in hourly averages.

Text table 5. Earnings distribution of cutters and markers and
sewing-machine operators, section system, Los Angeles-Long
Beach

Hourly earnings
Under $2.80...............................
$2.80 and under $3.20 .............
$3.20 and under $3.60 .............
$3.60 and under $4.00 .............
$4.00 and under $4.40 .............
$4.40 and under $4.80 .............
$4.80 and under $5.20 .............
$5.20 and under $5.60 .............
$5.60 and under $6.00 .............
$6.00 and under $6.40 .............
$6.40 and under $6.80 .............
$6.80 and under $7.20 .............
$7.20 and over...........................
Number of w orkers...........
Average hourly
earnings .........................

-

-

$5.60

$2.93

Establishment practices and supplementary
wage provisions

Information was obtained on work schedules and
selected supplementary benefits for production workers.
Provisions for paid holidays, paid vacations, health and
insurance benefits, mail-order prescription drugs, supple­
mentary employment benefits, and retirement plans were
stipulated in collective bargaining agreements between
the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union and
dress shops employing two-thirds of the production
workers studied in the 13 areas combined.

Sewing-machine operators using the single-hand
(tailor) system averaged more per hour than those under
the section system in all 10 of the areas in which
comparisons could be made. The wage advantage for
single-hand system sewers ranged from 3 percent in
Boston ($4.53-$4.41) and 6 percent in Paterson-CliftonPassaic ($4.03-$3.79) to 38 percent in Philadelphia
($5.66—
$4.11) and 34 percent in Chicago ($5.34-$3.98).
Among the remaining six areas, differentials between the
two types of operators were between 10 and 19 percent.

Scheduled weekly hours. Work schedules of 35 hours a
week were in effect in shops employing at least ninetenths of the workers in eight areas and about three-fifths
in Boston (table 17). In Dallas, Miami, Los Angeles, and
South Carolina—where nonunion shops predominate—
the typical schedule was 40 hours.
Paid holidays. Paid holidays were provided by virtually
all shops visited in 11 areas (table 18) and by about twothirds of those in Los Angeles-Long Beach and Miami.
The numbers of holidays provided varied by area, and
within some areas by establishment; most commonly,
however, 8 to 10 days were provided annually.

In most instances, workers paid incentive rates
averaged more per hour than time-rated workers in the
same job and area. For example, earnings of section
system sewing-machine operators paid incentive rates
exceeded averages of their time-rated counterparts in 5 of
6 areas permitting comparison; the differences ranged
from 5 percent an hour in Wilkes-Barre-Hazleton to 30
percent an hour in Newark and Jersey City. When similar
comparisons were made for hand pressers, pay levels for
incentive workers were higher in 8 of 9 areas for which
comparable data existed—ranging from 6 percent in
Miami to 78 percent in Newark and Jersey City. Variations
in incentive earnings for individuals may be traceable to
differences in work experience, effort, workflow, or other
factors which the worker may or may not control. For
example, in periods o f declining production, the reduced
workload available for workers paid piece rates may limit
their opportunity to maximize earnings.



Number of
Number of
cutters and sewing-machine operators,
markers
section system
11
974
15
232
19
140
10
86
19
54
45
45
104
10
93
5
4
10
13
8
3
78
58
4
477
1,563

Health, welfare, and vacation benefits. In 9 of 13 areas
studied, employers generally contributed a specific
percentage of their payrolls to a union health, welfare,
and vacation fund.8 The amount of the employer
contribution and the benefits available to workers varied
among the areas (table 19). Health and welfare funds
usually provided for doctor’s care; basic hospital and
surgical benefits supplemented by a major medical
*In Chicago and St. Louis, workers typically received vacation
benefits directly from their employers.

4

program; disability insurance; maternity care benefits;
eyeglasses; services at the union health center; and death
benefits. Employers contributed an additional threeeighths of 1 percent of their covered payrolls to a national
health services fund for the purpose of providing mail
order prescription drugs to union workers, their families,
and to retired union members.
In the other four areas studied, where workers were not
as highly unionized, the health, welfare, and vacation
benefits covered relatively fewer workers.
About half the shops in Los Angeles-Long Beach,
three-fourths in Miami, and nine-tenths or more in
Dallas-Ft. Worth and South Carolina had provisions for
paid vacations, typically 1 week of pay after 1 year of
service. Longer vacations after selected service periods
were available in some shops in each area. Provisions for
health insurance were found in more than two-fifths of
the shops in Los Angeles-Long Beach and Miami, about
nine-tenths in Dallas, and virtually all in South Carolina.
The most frequently reported types of insurance were:
Life, accidental death and dismemberment, hospitaliza­
tion, surgical, medical, and major medical.

A flat weekly amount of $20 is paid for a maximum of 26
weeks, the actual number of weeks depending on length of
service.
Temporary disability benefits. In Newark-Jersey City,
New York City, and Paterson-Clifton-Passaic, ILGWU
agreements specified that the employers pay the full cost,
including the workers’ contributions, of temporary
disability benefits stipulated under New York and New
Jersey disability benefit laws.
Retirement plans. Retirement benefits (other than
Federal social security) were provided through employer
contributions to a national retirement fund in establish­
ments operating under ILGWU agreements (table 20).
The amounts contributed varied among the areas from
5Zi percent to 6% percent of the covered payrolls. A
benefit of $ 100 a month is paid to qualified workers at age
65. Workers may retire between ages 62 and 65 with a
proportionate benefit reduction for each year prior to age
65. Totally disabled workers may retire with full benefits
at any age. The contracts also provided for a $500 lump­
sum death benefit payable to the workers’ beneficiaries.
Retirement pension benefits were reported by onetenth of the shops visited in Miami and Los
Angeles-Long Beach, one-fourth of those in Dallas-Ft.
Worth, and two-fifths of those in South Carolina.

Supplementary unemployment benefits. Employers
having ILGWU contracts contributed one-eighth of 1
percent of their covered payrolls to a national fund
providing for supplementary unemployment benefits to
eligible workers whose employer has gone out of business.




5

fable 1. Occupational earnings: Boston, Mass.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

1 T h e B o s to n m e t r o p o l i t a n a r e a c o n s i s t s o f S u ffo lk C o u n ty , 16 c o m m u n itie s in E s s e x C o u n ty ,
34 in M id d le s e x C o u n ty , 2 6 in N o r f o lk C o u n ty , a n d 12 in P ly m o u th C o u n ty , M a s s .
2 E x c l u d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o r k on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d la te s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p l e o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e l e v e l o f
o c c u p a t i o n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t r e ­
f l e c t e x p e c t e d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if t s in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u c h s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l




a v e ra g e ,
*
4
5
6
7
8

e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .
A p p r o x im a te ly 55 p e r c e n t o f th e w o r k e r s in th e B o s to n s u r v e y w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
1 a t $ 9 . 2 0 a n d u n d e r $ 9 . 6 0 ; a n d 14 a t $ 1 0 a n d o v e r.
W h e re s e p a r a te in f o r m a tio n b y s e x is n o t sh o w n , a l l o r v i r t u a l l y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
1 a t $ 9 - 2 0 a n d u n d e r $ 9 . 6 0 ; a n d 2 a t $ 1 0 and o v e r.
V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e tim e - r a t e d .
A l l w o r k e r s w e r e a t $ 1 0 a n d o v e r.

Table 2. Occupational earnings: Chicago, III.1 (Cook County)
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

Occupation and sex

NUP BER OF W0 RKERS R E « IVINGSTRA)■GHT— TIME HOURLY E A R NINGS (IN D0LLA RS> 0 F2.60 2.80 3.00 3.20 3.40 3.60 3.80 4.00 4.20 4.40 4.60 4.80 5.00 5.40 5.80 6.20 6. 60 7 .00 7.40 7.80 8.20 8 .60 9.00
AND
OVER
2.40 2.60 2.80 3.00 3.20 3.40 3.60 3.80 4.00 4.20 4.40 4.60 4.80 5,Q0 5^40 5 , 6 0 6.20 6 . 6 0 _L« 00 _L
7.8-Q 6j_2Q. a . 6 0 _s_iJUL

Number
Average 2.30 2.40
of
hourly
A NO
workers earnings' UNDER

*4.50
5.51
4.24

2
-

7.23
3.67
6.45
5.46
4.31

-

30

ALL P R OD UC TI ON W O R K E R S 5..............
H E N ..................................
W O M E N ....................................

194
180

3.98
3.99

126

5.34

734
151

583

2

7
2
5

15
2
13

15

102
16
86

76
14

50
5

5

3

3

3

4

62

45

56

37

37
6
31

37

6
9

61

40

34

45

17

1

-

-

2

2
2

-

1
-

1
-

-

-

48

21

26
26

17
3
14

41
14
27

35
9

16
6

26

10

7
5

19
6
13

u

15

12

6

9

5

6

7
5

5
1

9
-

6

-

-

*

-

-

4

6

ii
9

10

2

3
7

6
3
2

3
1
1

-

-

10
10
-

SELE CT EO PR OD U C T I O N O C C U P A T I O N S 1
4
*
2
CU TT ER S AND M A R K E R S 5 ................
INSPECTORS, FINAL ( E X A M I N E R S ) .......
PRESSERS, H A N D 6 ..........................
W O M E N ................................
S E W I NG -M AC HI NE OPERATORS,
SECTION S Y S T E M .......................
I N C E N T I V E .........................
S E WI NG -M AC HI NE OPERATORS,
SI NG LE -H AN D (TAILOR) SY S T E M ” ......

1
2

60
8
27
21

-

-

-

-

*
-

-

3

-

-

-

-

-

-

2
3
3

1
1

-

-

-

-

-

2

-

1
2

3
-

-

1
1

-

3

4
-

6

3

5

-

33
33

16
15

19
18

18
18

22
12

8
8

21
21

30
28

8
8

8
8

4
4

5
5

-

4

4

8

5

12

5

6

4

5

-

2

5

16

12

T h e C h ic a g o a r e a c o n s i s t s o f C o o k C o u n ty , 111.
E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d fo r w o rk on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a t e s h if t s .
T h e s e s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p le o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e
l e v e l o f o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d ie s
m a y n o t r e f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if ts
in e m p lo y m e n t a m o n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s w ith d if f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . Su ch s h if t s , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld
d e c r e a s e an o c c u p a tio n a l a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n
. p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .




J

*

-

1
1

-

2
2

-

2
2

2
2

-

6

11

1

5

5
75

-

6

3 A p p r o x • a te ly 58 p e r c e n t o f th e w o r k e r s in th e C h ic a g o s u r v e y w e r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .
im
4
5
6
7
$ 1 0 . 60;
8

W h e re s e p a r a t e in fo r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t sho w n , v i r t u a l l y a ll w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t i v e - r a t e d .
W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
1 a t $ 9 a n d u n d e r $ 9 . 4 0 ; 3 a t $ 1 0 . 2 0 and u n d e r
a n d 1 a t $ 1 1 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 .4 0 .
V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .

Table 3. Occupational earnings: Dallas-Ft. Worth, Tex.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

Occupation and sex

NUMBER OF WORKERS *ECELiviN£ STRA]1GHT- t i m e HOURL
_
e a r MINGS (IN DOLLARS) O F — _
2.90 3.00 3.10 3.20 3.30 3.A0 3.50 3.60 3.80 A . 00 A . 20 A. A0 A . 60 A . 80 5.00 5.20 5.60 6.00 6 . A0 6.66 7.20

Number Average
2.30 2 . A0 2.50 2.60 2.70 2.80
hourly
of
AND
2
workers earnings1 JNOER

2.A0 2.50 2.60 2.70 2.80 2.90 3.00 3.10 3.20 3.30 3.A0 3.50 3.60 3.80 A . 00 A . 20 4.40 A . 60 A . 80 5.00 5.20 5.60 6.00 6 . A0 6.80 7.20 7.60
ALL PR OD U C T I O N W O R K F R S 3 ............ .

3*017

S3.11

209

?09

407

?85

366

selected

in-

2A2

2.623

IO *
'

110

33
1O
'"

170

33

39

13

47

17

29

08

P R OD UC TI ON o c c u p a t i o n s 4

A D JU ST ER S 5............. ...............

18

3.8?

A S S O R T F R S 5 .............................
C U TT ER S ANO M A R K E R S ..................
T T M E ..............................

36
215
1 BA
172
1A 1
A3
79

2.77
A. A6
A . 26
A . 62
A. AO
3.79
2.85

6

1A 1

3.00

1A

73
A2

3.34
3 . OR

T I M E ..... .................... .
INSPECTORS* FINAL

(E X A M I N E R S ) ......

PRESSERS* M A C H I N E .....................

PRESSEPS* HAND ANO M A C H I N E ..........

25
A5

3
t 70
3.06 1
2.83

.
i

25

8

4

-

19
-

10
3

4

?

1

10

ro
4
4

3

8
8

2

3

-

2.93
3.07

156
1AO

3.23
3.26

108

3

3
3

5

1

3
*

14

24
21

i

10

5

3r
4

6

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

36
6

-

7

5

12

-

15

12

3
i

-

3

-

-

6

i

-

i

-

i

33

W

-

-

U)

3
3

f

IZ

2

-

*

^42

4

3*01

-

1

i

T)
t

r

17
8

-

12

132
120

17

Hi

S E W I NG -M AC HI NE OPERATORS*
T T M E ..............................

1
24

36

4
4

10
10
2

S E W I N G -M AC HI NE OP ERATORS*
88A

_

1

13
1.372

i

:
J
:
1

12
12

„

1 T h e D a l l a s - F t . W o rth M e tr o p o li t a n A r e a c o n s is t s of C o llin , D a lla s , D e n to n , E l li s , H ood,
J o h n s o n , K a u fm a n , P a r k e r , R o c k w a ll, T a r r a n t , a n d W ise C o u n tie s .
2 E x c l u d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o r k on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a te s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p l e o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e l e v e l o f
o c c u p a t i o n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t r e ­
f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if t s in e m p lo y m e n t




a m o n g e s ta b l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u c h s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l
a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .
° A p p r o x i m a t e l y 64 p e r c e n t o f th e w o r k e r s in th e D a lla s - F t . W o rth s u r v e y w e r e tim e - r a te d .
*
W h e re s e p a r a te i n f o r m a tio n b y s e x is n o t sh o w n , v i r t u a l l y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
5 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .

Table 4. Occupational earnings: Fall River and New Bedford, Mass.-R.l.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)
NUMBER OF WORKERS RECEIVIN6 STRAIGHT-TIME HOURLY EA RNINGS (IN DOLLARS) O F —
Occupation and sex

ALL

P R O D U C T I O N W O R K E R S 3 ...............
H E N ......................................
W0 HE N ...................................

Number Average
3. 0 0
of
hourly JNO E R
AND
workers earnings1
23. 0 0 U N D E R
3. 1 0
4 * 165
463
3.702

*4.20
4.90
4.12

A D J U S T E R S 4 .................................
A S S O R T E R S ..................................
W O M E N ...................................
C U T T E R S A N D M A R K E R S 4 *..................
.
INSPECTORS. FINAL (EXAMINERS)7
.......
P R E S S E R S t H A N D ...........................

19
84
79
80
85
283

I N C E N T I V E ...........................
M E N ......................................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
W O M E N ...................................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
P R E S S E R S . M A C H I N E .......................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ....... ....................
H E N ......................................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
S E W E R S . H A N D ( F I N I S H E R S ) ..............
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS.
S E C T I O N S Y S T E M 0.........................
T H R E A D T R I M M E R S ( C L E A N E R S ) ...........
T I M E ..................................
W O R K D I S T R I B U T O R S 7 ......................
.
W O M E N ...................................

77
51
25
26
232
181
51
74
45
29
61
42
19
78
55
23

4.65
5.07
4.95
5. 1 9
4.78
4.89
4.38
5.31
4.95
5.86
5.34
4.94
6. 2 1
3. 9 1
3. 7 2
4.36

2.240
281

4.27
3.55

82

3.6 2

PRODUCTION

3.20

3.30

3.40 3.50

3.60

3.70

3.80

3.90 4.00

4.10

4.20

4.40 4.60

4.80

5.00

5.20

5. 4 0

5. 6 0

5.80

4 . 0 0 4. 10 4 . 2 0

6 .20 6 . 4 0 6 . 6 0 6 7 8 3
AND
OVER
6 . 2 0 6 .40 6 . 6 0 6 . 8 0

3.20

3.30

3.4 0

3.50

3.60

3.70

3.80

3.90

4.40

4.60

4.80

5.00

5. 2 0

5.40

5.60

5.80

6.00

15
3
12

44
12
32

43
5
38

862
25
837

177
6
171

420
9
411

196
7
189

141
5
136

173
9
164

322
16
306

125
7
118

193
9
184

183
20
163

144
22
122

176
54
122

182
25
157

187
41
146

77
15
62

51
13
38

41
8
33

64
24
40

51
32
19

31
14
17

-

-

-

_

_

-

_

_

_

_

_

_

1
1
2
1

-

13
13

5
5

1
1
-

29

9

7

8e

-

-

-

1

3
3
3
-

2

16
_
16
-

4
i
_

~
~

-

-

-

4
4
4
2
2

1

-

5
2
2
3
~
3
-

-

“
~
1
1

6
3
3
3
3

3
35
33
2
4
4
31
29
2

-

-

-

i
1

-

-

-

-

-

2
2
2

-

~
4
1
3

2
_
4
2
2
14
13
1
11
10

18
12
6
16
12

2
_
_
91
89
2
20
19
i
71
70
1
17
ii
6
15
11

14

2
2

i
3
4
4

_

3

1
1
_
14
8
6
1
_
1
13
8
5
1
1
1
1

_

28
5

8
8
1
16

_

6

9

2
_
_

-

5
5
-

2
_
_

-

35
35
6
4

3
_
_

-

8
8
43
-

1
_
_
7

_

-

1
1
9

_

1
1
-

1

1

112
32
80

26
12
14

97
27
70

2

s5

OCCUPATIONS4

-

~
-

-

1
~
1
~

1
1
-

2£

1
1

1
1

~

-

3
1

-

_

-

~

2
1
1

12
9
3

14

1
19
5

1

-

2
1
1
-

4
3
1

24
22
2

607
59

120
12

115
115

98
7

84
7

15
12

13
13

31
31

7

5

1 T h e F a l l R i v e r a n d N e w B e d f o rd a r e a c o n s is t s of F a l l R iv e r, N ew B e d fo rd , a n d th e to w n s of
A c u s h n e t, D a r tm o u th , D ig h to n , F a i r h a v e n , F r e e to w n , S o m e r s e t, S w a n s e a , a n d W e s tp o r t in B r i s t o l
C o u n ty , M a s s . ; th e to w n s o f L a k e v il l e , M a rio n , a n d M a tta p o is e tt in P ly m o u th C o u n ty , M a s s . ; a n d th e
to w n s o f L i t t l e C o m p to n , P o r ts m o u th , a n d T i v e r t o n in N e w p o rt C o u n ty , R . I.
2 E x c l u d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r tim e a n d fo r w o r k on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d la t e s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p le of e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l o f
e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d ie s m a y n o t r e f l e c t e x p e c te d
w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , and s h if ts in e m p lo y m e n t a m o n g e s t a b ­
l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u c h s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l a v e r a g e ,
e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s t a b l i s h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r io d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .




6.00

. 32
11
21

6.40
3. 8 2
3. 7 5
6.29
3.60
4.83

SELECTED

3.10

-

6
6

2

-

2
4
2
2
5
5
_

1
1
_

9
7
2
1
1
1
1

16
-

-

5
5

3
1
2

3
3

4
2
2

107
3

124
3

92

134
2

131

1

4

1

-

_

-

_

i
6
3
3
5
1
4
1
i

_
_
_
103
_

_

_
96
3

_

1
1
_
51
49
2
2
_
2
49
49
_

_

_

_

_
_
_
_
8

1
_

_
_

3

1

7

2

2

_

3

3
3
_

3
2
_

1
1
_

5
5

_

2
_

2
2

I
-

3
1

3
5
5
_

2
1
_

1
_
_

5
2
2

_

2

2
_

_

_
_

1
2

1
1
1

1
_

3

1
1

3
2

2
1
1
2
1

9

1
1

_

_

_

1

_

2
_
_

_

1

2

4

1
1

2
1

94
4

12
1

13

66

1

1

1

1

3

96
3

67
2

55
1

32
1

_

_

33

34

16

3 A p p r o x im a te ly 60 p e r c e n t of th e w o r k e r s in the F a l l R i v e r a n d N e w B e d fo rd s u r v e y w e r e i n ­
c e n tiv e - r a t e d .
4 W h e re s e p a r a t e i n f o r m a tio n b y s e x is n o t show n, v i r t u a ll y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
5 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
6 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
1 a t $ 7 . 4 0 a n d u n d e r $ 7 . 6 0 ; a n d 4 a t $ 8 a n d o v e r.
7 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
8 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
3 a t $ 6 . 80 a n d u n d e r $ 7 ; 1 a t $ 7 and
u n d e r $ 7 .2 0 ;
1 a t $ 7 .2 0 and u n d e r $ 7 .4 0 ; 2 a t
$ 7 .8 0 and u n d e r
$ 8 ; and 1 a t $ 8 and o v e r.
9 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
1 a t $ 7 . 6 0 a n d u n d e r $ 7 . 8 0 ; a n d 3 a t $ 8 a n d o v e r.
10 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .

Table 5. Occupational earnings: Los Angeles-Long Beach, Calif.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)
NUMBER OF WORKERS RECEI VI NG STRAIGHT-TIME HOURLY EARN IN GS (IN DOLLARS) OF —
Occupation and sex

Number
Average 2 . 5 0
hourly
AND
of
workers earnings2 U N D E R
2.60

2 T S C TT7TT T T M 1T 7 W ■JTocT 3 . 1 0

3.20

3.30

3.00

3 . 6 0 3.80

0.00

4.20

4.40

0.60

0. 8 0

5. 0 0

5.20

5.40

5. 6 0

5.80

6.00

6.20

3.80 0.00

0.20

0.00

9,60

0.80

5.PQ

5.2fl 5 . 4 0

5. 6 0

5. 8 0

A .00

6.20

6.40

219
33
186

319
57
26 2

144
22
1 22

190
00
150

107
37
110

75
31
44

99
68
31

39
16
23

31
2
29

15
10
5

22
12
10

23
16
7

91
88
3

88
66
22

-

“

-

-

~

-

-

-

-

-

“

~

-

~

2
i
“
1
“

2
1

7

6
1
i
i
1
i

8
i
“
i
1
1
-

78
-

458

-

“

1
2
2
2

-

-

2.70

2.80

2.90

3.00

3.10

3.20

3.30

3. 40

3.60

7.704
1 t649
6.095

S3.36
3.89
3.21

1906
393
1553

385
60
325

865
155
710

253
26
227

234
28
206

582
125
057

266
36
230

303
30
309

224
52
1 72

395
51
344

5 26
62
06 0

A S S O R T E R S ..................................

138

2.98

29

1

23

6

5

17

8

31

10

2

6

I N C E N T I V E ...........................
M E N ......................................
T I N E ..................................

23
37
30

-

1
7
7
16
15
l

-

_

8
1

7
5
5

1
7
7

_

3
3

-

6
6

-

477
172
150
107
129
368
1 12
256
37
25
331
100
2 31
50
31
21
33
21
105
100
01

3.32
3.08
2.95
2.90
2.90
3. 1 7
5.60
2.84
2. 8 7
2.87
2.90
3. 4 0
2.9 9
3.59
3.33
3.52
3.01
2.99
3.59
3. 2 0
3.7 2
3.55
2. 9 8
3.26
3. 1 2
3.0 3
3. 35

10
69
65
63
59
94
54
00
11
1
83
44
39
28
5
11
17
5
27
22
5

1
24
12
24
12
17
1
16
6
6
11
1
10
4
4
-

1.563
350
1.213

2.93
2.57
3. 0 0

705
320
025

61
1.326
170
1.152

3.25
2.98
2. 6 5
3.03

2 . 6 30
530
2.100
107
2.087
526
1.961

3.01
3. 39
3.01
3.52
3. 0 0
3.37
3.0 1

6 •4 G 6 .80 7 . 2 0
AND
OVER
6 .AO 7 . 2 0

ALL

P R O D U C T I O N W O R K E R S 1 ...............
M E N ......................................
W O M E N ...................................

SELECTEO PRODUCTION

52
35
17

OCCUPATIONS4

T I M E ..................................
C U T T E R S AND M A R K E R S 5 ...................
I N S P E C T O R S . F I N A L ( E X A M I N E R S ! .......
T I M E ..................................
W O M E N ...................................
T I N E ..................................
P R E S S E R S . H A N D ...........................
T I N E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
M E N ......................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
W O N E N ...................................
T I N E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
P R E S S E R S . M A C H I N E .......................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
N E N ......................................
W O N E N ...................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
S E W E R S . H A N D ( F I N I S H E R S ) .............
T I N E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS.
S E C T I O N S Y S T E M ..........................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
he n :
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
W O N E N ...................................
T I N E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS.
S I N G L E - H A N D ( T A I L O R ) S Y S T E M ........
T I N E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
MEN.7.....................................
W O N E N ...................................
T I N E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................

S e e f o o tn o te s a t e n d o f ta b le .




171
94
77

05

8
8
21
21

~

-

6

2

17

-

19

2

2

33
33
14
10
3
3
3
3
2
2
2
2
20
14
10

2
r
23
2
21
23
2
21
1
i
i
6
4
2

12
15
13
15
13
8
8
8
8
7
7
7
7
28
24
4

1
3
3
3
3
42
15
27
02
15
27
3
3

12
22
5
17
6
6
16
5
11
3
1
2

i
-

9
9
i
i
8
8
1
1
1
7
6
i

7
21
21
21
21
12
12
12
12
1
1
1
1
3
3

2
1
1
1
1
52
18
30
5
5
07
18
29
3
3
1
2
2
22
19
3

61

168

100

55

37

40

44

59

37

61

164

98

51

33

38

44

59

8
561
100
017

12
49
09

u
157
4
153

i
99
2
97

3
52
4
08

2
35
4
31

7
33
2
31

i
43
43

398
70
328
35
363
70
293

180
14
170
14
170
10
156

217
22
195
5
212
22
190

74

76
18
58

189
70
115
7
182
70
108

97
162
4
01
121
93
15 ,
2
82
160
4
01
78
119

-

-

-

“

30

59
1
1
1
1
19
_
19
-

-

_
3
3
3
3
4
3
i

“

1

-

70
12
62
62

-

76
18
58

8
12

17
“

2
25

23
2
2
2
2
2
~
2
~
2

22
*

1
2
2

-

2
3
3
1
2
2
2

2
2
6

-

2

6

1

20

1

2
“
2

1

“
2

83
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
”
-

2
1
1
i

-

1
1
1

4

6

20

4

6

1
20
2
18

24
20

1
3

118
4
110
6
112
4
108

62
62
6
56

11
~
11
“
~
11

25
-

8
“
2
2
"

11
1
1
1

25
-

56

30

24

30

33

50

30

22

30

21
2
19

59
59

3
30
4
30

1
55
6
09

2
28
28

1
23
2
21

2
28
28

70
3
67
8
62
3
59

188
13
175
188
13
175

287
172
115
2
285
172
113

1 36
37
99
6
130
37
93

177
06
131
1
176
46
130

55
7
48
6
49
7
02

12
4
4
8

3
2
1

25

21
“

“
1

56

“
*

19

i

1
“
i

19
1
i
i

1
-

i
-

4

i

8

i

8

2

3

6
6

4
4

i
i

5
3
“
3

00
00
6
30
30

41
i
40
6
35
1
30

6
6

8
2
6
2
6
“
6

8
8
8

4
-

2

4

5
“
5
i
i
4

-

~

i
“
i

_
“
-

-

i

6
6

8

2
2
26
26
26
*
26

“

3

~

0

-

-

3

-

0

-

-

~
-

4

i
i
i
i

3
*
3

“
-

4
4
0
“
0

0
10
2
8
8
2
2

“
~

Table 5. Occupational earnings: Los Angeles-Long Beach, Calif.1—Continued
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

1 T h e L o s A n g e l e s - L o n g B e a c h M e tr o p o lita n A r e a c o n s is t s of L o s A n g e le s C o u n ty , C a lif .
2 E x c l u d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r tim e a n d fo r w o r k on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d la te s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p le o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e l e v e l of
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m ad e w ith p r e v i o u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t r e ­
f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e of c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if ts in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u ch s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l
a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e en p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .




3

A p p r o x im a te ly 55 p e r c e n t o f th e w o r k e r s in th e L o s A n g e le s - L o n g B e a c h s u r v e y w e r e i n c e n t iv e -

4
5
6
7
8

W h e re s e p a r a te i n f o r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t show n, v i r t u a l l y a l l
V i r tu a l ly a ll o f th e w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
A ll w o r k e r s e a r n e d b e tw e e n $ 8 a n d $ 8 . 4 0 .
V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t i v e - r a t e d .
V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .

ra te d .
of th e

w o rk ers

w e re

w om en.

Table 6. Occupational earnings: Miami, Fla.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r l y e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s i n s e l e c t e d o c c u p a t i o n s i n w o m e n ' s a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c t u r i n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

O ccupation and

IL L

sex

PRODUCTION WORKERS3 .................................
.
HEN................................. ..................................................

Number Ave rag e
of
hourly
workers e a rnings

2 . 20 2 . 4 0

2 .60

2 .80

3.00

NUHBER OF WORKERS RECEIVING
3 .2 0 3 .4 0 3 .6 0 3.80 4 .0 0 4 .2 0

2 .40

2 .8 0

3 .00

3.20

3 ,4 0

3 .60

3 .8 0

20 2
16
186

136
16
1 20

130
14
116

104
4
100

10
4
1
22
3
19
22
3
19

4

“
”

6 .60

6 .8 0

7 .00

7 .2 0

6 . 40 6 . 6 0

6 .80

7 .00

7 .20

7 .40

3

2 .6 0

$ 3 .1 5
4 .2 2
3 .0 3

258
18
240

607
37
570

602
7
595

207
9
198

368
32
3 36

64
145
23
162
53
109
152
49
103
27
16
11
15
7
8
12
76
62

2 .8 2
5 . 17
3 .0 1
3 .2 6
3 .1 3
3 .3 2
3 .21
2 .8 8
3 .3 6
4 .3 4
3 .41
5 .71
4 .7 8
3 .4 1
5 .9 7
3 .8 0
2 .8 9
2 .7 9

-

22

14

12

3
10

9
41
17
24
37
17
20

2
21
6
15
19
6
13
1
1

12
12

1 ,1 6 8
556
612

2 .9 0
2. 74
3 .0 5

1 03
14
89

495
415
164
144
20
48

3 .4 3
3 .4 5
2 .6 0
2 . 47
3 .5 5
2.86

3 ,0 1 2
297
2 ,715

S T R A IG H T - T IH E HOURLY EARNINGS ( I N DOLLA RS) OF—
4 . 4 0 4 . 6 0 T t . 8 0 5 . 0 0 5 . 2 0 5 . 4 0 5 . 60 5 . 8 0 6 . 0 0 6 . 20 6 . 4 0

4 . 20 4 . 4 0

4 .60

4 .8 0

5 .0 0

5.20

5 .4 0

5 .6 0

5 .8 0

45
8
37

81
11
70

50
11
39

39
19
20

28

20
10
10

26
23
3

16
6
10

-

28

23
10
13

2

6

11

11

19

-

10

3

23

6

4

7

5

-

-

7
7
”
7
2

5

7
4
3

-

4
4
“
4
4
2
2
4
2
2
“
7

“

-

4 .0 0

6 .0 0

6 .2 0

7 .40
AND
OVER

5
3
2

-

8
8

5

6
4
2

11
8
3

-

4

1

-

8

6

9
1
8

26
22
4

5

-

1

16

-

-

-

a
u

"

“

-

-

SELECTED PRODUCTION OCCUPATIONS 4
ASSORTERS5 .................................................................... ..
.
CUTTERS AND BARKERS6 ..........................................
.
INS PECTORS, FINAL ( E I A H I R B R S ) ................
PR E S SE RS , H A N D . . . . . ............ ...............................
I NC EN TI VE ............ ..............................................
WOHEN............................................................................
T I H E ..................... ...................................................
INCE NT IVE . . .....................................................
PR E SSE RS , NACHINE..................................................
T I H E ............... ..........................................................
INCEN TIV E ...........................................................
HEN...................................................................................
T I H E .........................................................................
INC EN TI VE ...........................................................
WOHEN............................................................................
SEWERS, HAND ( F I N I S H E R S ) .............
SEWING-HACHINE OPERATORS,
SECTION STSTEH........................................................
T I H E . . ...................................................................
SEWING-HACHINE OPERATORS,
SINGLE-HAND (TAILOR) S I S T E H . . . . . . .
INCEN TIV E ...........................................................
THREAD TRIHHERS (CLEANERS) ........................
T I H E ..................... ...................................................
WORK D I S T R I B U T O R S . ................................. ...

4
4
4
4
_
-

7
43
43

3

6
6
“
6

27
15
12
27
15
12
7
7

-

-

3
3
"
4
25
18

”
”

10
10

*
“
1
14
14

24 2
126
116

350
265
85

98
37
61

137
65
72

79
63
78
76
2
4

49
49
17
17

50
50
2

*
“

1 1

4
6

”

"
4

4
2
2
2
"
2
2

10

3

10
10

3

1

10
3

3

-

3

“
5
2
-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

2

-

2
2

2

*

-

”

“

“

“

“

-

-

-

-

-

-

_

7

“

2

-

-

-

-

-

2

~
*

2
“

”

26
8
18

35

8

9

10

2

3

2

3

2

2

30

8

9

10

2

3

-

2

3

5

-

-

4

2

2

2

37
21
10

35
27

60
36

43
43
1

12
8

25
17

11
11

3
3

9
9

10
10

4
4

-

3
3

-

8
8

-

3

-

3

40
40
3

4
17

_

n

8 8 ___ 37
31
32
57

3
1

3
2

2

1
“

1

7
“

-

“

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

‘

"

'

1 1

1 T h e M ia m i m e t r o p o li ta n a r e a c o n s i s t s o f D a d e C o u n ty , F l a .
2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o r k on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d la t e s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d o n a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p l e o f ' e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l of
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t
r e f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e of c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if t s in e m p l o y ­
m e n t a m o n g e s ta b l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . Such s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e an o c ­




1
1

3
-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

3
3

-

-

-

c u p a tio n a l a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .
3 A p p r o x im a te ly 58 p e r c e n t of th e w o r k e r s in the M ia m i s u r v e y w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
4 W h e re s e p a r a t e i n f o r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t sho w n , v i r t u a ll y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
5 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
6 V i r tu a lly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
7 A ll w o r k e r s e a r n e d $ 8 . 60 o r o v e r.

Table 7. Occupational earnings: Newark and Jersey City, N.J.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

Occupation and sex

A L L P R O D U C T I O N W O R K E R S 1 ...............
3
2
R E N . . . ..................................
W O M E N ....................................
SELECTED

----------------------------- E u r o n r i >P W O R K E R S i H E t t l M f e S f R A G H T - H E I 8 PURL' T T R i T n g T T P P
S O ! —
Average 2 . 4 0 2. 5 0 2 . 6 0 2. 7 0 2 . 8 0 2 . 9 0 3.0 0 3 . 2 0 3 . 4 0 3 . 6 0 3.80 4 . 0 0
Number
4. 2 0 4 • 40 4 . 6 0 4 . 8 0 5.00 5 . 4 0 5 . 8 0 6 . 2 0
hourly.
of
AND
earnings U N D E R
workers
2 . 5 0 2 . 6 0 2 . 7 0 2 . 8 0 2 . 9 0 3 . 0 0 3.20 3 . 4 0 3.6jP 3 . 8 0 4. 0 0 4 , 2 9 4 , 4 0 4 . 6 0 4 . 8 0 5 . 0 0 5. 4 0 5 . 8 0 6 . 2 0 6 . 6 0
2.793
360
2.A33

*4.74
6.37
4.50

2
2

114
10
104

28

28

15
2
13

17
4
13

26
26

129
19
110

92
10
82

212

_

_

_

_

_

256
17
239

209
22
187

247
18
229

230
20
210

109
14
95

_

_

8

3

6

-

8

2

_
«
-

6
2
2
4
4
22
15

_

-

-

8
10

2i:

22*2

6.60

7.00

7.40 7.80

7.00

7.40

7.80 8 .20

91
19
72

36
16
20

8.20
OVER

129
129

134
17
117

104
11
93

6

8

15

6

5

3

6

25

_

10

9

11

3

11

6

879

21
2
-

_

8
8
8
2
2

_
9
9

11
2
2
9
_

3
_
_

11
11
11

79
62
62
17
_

9

3

_
_
-

6
6
6
_
_

8

152
23
129

86
9
77

170
13
157

_

1

_

6

3

2

4

-

38
16
22

27
10
17

130
480
50

PRODUCTION OCCUPATIONS5

C U T T E R S AND M A R K E R S 6 ...................
I N S P E C T O R S . F I N A L ( E X A M I N E R S ) 7 ......
.
P R E S S E R S . H A N D ...........................
I N C E N T I V E ............................
H E N ....... . ................... .........
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
W O M E N ...................................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
S E W E R S . H A N D ( F I N I S H E R S ) ..............
TI H E ....................... ..........

69

6.89

-

-

_

184

7.98

-

2

-

_

147
101
91
83
27
56
136

8.75
9.32
9.88
6.35
5.19
6.92
3. 9 4

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

2
2

-

-

-

-

-

-

2
4

4

-

-

4

-

2

3
—
12
10
2

7

789
108
681

4.49
3.58
4.64

2
2

16
12
4

11
8
3

6
2
4

5
5

14
14

29
16
13

20
2
18

88
9
79

87
20
67

57
13
44

46
7
39

43
7
36

688
116
108

5.22
3.42
3. 4 2

-

-

-

-

3
1

3

-

-

3
18
15

3
11
11

3
35
34

20
22
22

29
3
3

119
1
1

110
10
9

_

_

-

-

73
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS.
S E C T I O N S Y S T E M ..........................
T I N E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ............ ..............
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS.
S I N G L E - H A N D ( T A I L O R ) S Y S T E M 9 .......
T H R E A D T R I M M E R S ( C L E A N E R S ) 7 . . .......
.
W O M E N ....... ............................

-

-

ii
it

1 T h e N e w a rk a n d J e r s e y C ity a r e a c o n s is t s of E s s e x , H u d so n , M o r r i s , S o m e r s e t, a n d U n io n
C o u n tie s , N ew J e r s e y .
2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a te s h if ts . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p l e of e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l of o c ­
c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r tim e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v i o u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t r e ­
f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e of c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if ts in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s ta b l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . Su ch s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a ­
t io n a l a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .
3 A p p r o x i m a t e l y 59 p e r c e n t of th e w o r k e r s in th e N e w a rk a n d J e r s e y C ity s u r v e y w e r e i n c e n t iv e ra te d .




_
38

_

_

-

-

-

2
2
_

2
2
_

4
4

6

6

23
2
21
3

37
3
34

41
41

32
2
30

37
1

41
1
1

19

3
3

-

_
_
_

3
_

-

17

4

-

-

74
4
70

63
3
60

56
56

21
21

22
22

-

3
-

8

3

4
_
4

4
_
4

44

52

47

56

41

6

16

13

26

17

4 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s f o llo w s :
11 a t $ 8 .2 0 a n d u n d e r $ 8 .6 0 ; 13 a t $ 8 . 6Q a n d u n d e r $9;
1 a t $ 9 a n d u n d e r $ 9 . 40; 1 a t $ 9 . 40
a n d u n d e r $ 9 . 80; 6 a t $ 10. 20 a n d u n d e r $ 10. 60; a n d 48 a t $ 10.60 and
o v e r.
5 W h e re s e p a r a t e in fo r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t sh o w n , v i r t u a ll y a ll w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
6 V i r tu a lly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
8 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s f o llo w s :
10 a t $ 8 .2 0 a n d u n d e r $ 8 .6 0 ; 14 a t $ 8. 60 a n d u n d e r $ 9 ;
1 a t $ 9 .4 0 a n d u n d e r $ 9 .8 0 ; 6 a t $ 9 .8 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 .2 0 ; 6 a t $ 1 0 .2 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 .6 0 ; a n d 42 a t
$ 10. 60 an d o v e r .
9 V ir tu a lly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t i v e - r a t e d .

Table 8. Occupational earnings: New York City, N.Y.1—All shops
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s tr a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)
Number Average 2 . 3 0
of
AND
hourly
workers earnings1* 1 N 0 E R
24

Occupation and sex

2.90
_

2.50
_

2.60
-

2.70

_

N U M B E R OF W O R K E R S
2.80 2.90 3.00 3.20

_

_

R E C E I V I N G STRA
3.9 0 3 .60 3.80
_
.

C U T T E R S ANO
INSPECTORS.

TIRE••«•••••••••••••••••••••••

2.70

2.80

2.90

3.00

3.20

3.90

258

169

150

161

9.75

161

81
17
69

52

135

112

186
58
128

187
35
152

589
68
516

630
95
535

1130
102
1028

11

90
130
1.215
316
36
280
1.190
73
1.117
1.057
133
29
1 09
78

9.15
9.03
7.61
9.60
9.22
9.65
9.13
6.36
9.31
9.59
5.97
9.61
5.71
8.93

SEMING— MACHINE
THREAD

TRIMMERS

3.60

3.80 9.00

9.20

9.90

9.60

1296

1333

920

9.80

5.00

658

592

22

15 2 5 1 3 1 9
198
1327

8.50
-

-

9.00
-

9.50
ANO

12

6.00

6.50

7.00

7.50

8.00

8.50

9.00

1896
276
1570

1669
378
1291

1158
233
925

889
195
799

889
338
551

619
301
313

937
390
97

358
315
93

71
31

87
22

99
19

*9
18

20 5
-

185
19

188

-

151
-

16
21

18
93

19
68

92

38

86

68

83

2

-

9.50
230
181 * 7 0 0
99
79

17

9
8

5.50

26

-

-

-

-

20
-

J

18

19

37

19

6

6
29

29
7

37

91

37

2*

12

22
139

12

99
-

97

81

91

81

91

8969
10
959

-

12
-

-

-

-

-

_

-

-

_

-

-

6

3

3

-J

12

95
1 •0 9 *
308
786

10.50
*.50
3.75
9.80

_

9.21
9.23
9.20

32

726

5.00
3.56

53
26

-

18
12

17
17

3

27

22

23

27

15

22

16
30

15

5

80
35
95

36
25

35

117

79

23

35

117

28

19

172
55

15

97
73
29

79

187
97
190

232
69
163

77

356
132

56 0
122

_

121
93
78

-

32

-

_

103 6
J

_

_

_

_

3

6

-

36

120

59

25

59

03
111

113

58

797

_

.
10

_

3

*

12

512

36~

1: .

OPERATORS.
1 C L E A N E R S ........•

2*

19

*

*

30

19
9.01

1

8.00

11
19

12

2.269
399
1.920

INCENTIV£•••••••••••••••••••••

o p e r a t o r s

7.50
-

5

M A R K E R S 7 .....................
F I N A L I E X A M I N E R S I 6 ......
.

SEWING-MACHINE

7.00

19

2.60

S5.22

13

o c c u p a t i o n s

2.50

20.000
*•807
15.101
p r o d u c t i o n

IIN DOL L A R S I OF —
5.00 5.50 6.00 6.50
_
_
-

OVER

2.90

s e l e c t e d

GHT - T I M E H0U R L T EAR! INGS
9.00 9.20 9.90 9.60 *•80
_
_
-

T h e N e w Y o rk C ity a r e a c o n s i s t s o f B ro n x , K in g s. N e w Y o rk , Q u e e n s , a n d R ic h m o n d C o u n tie s ,

N . Y.
2 E x c l u d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d la t e s h i f t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p l e o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e l e v e l of
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t
r e f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , and s h if t s in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u c h s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l
a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s t a b l i s h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .
* A p p r o x i m a t e l y 58 p e r c e n t o f th e w o r k e r s in th e N ew Y o rk C ity s u r v e y w e r e i n c e n t i v e - r a t e d .
4 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s f o llo w s :
96 a t $ 9 . 50 a n d u n d e r $ 10; 127 a t $ 10 a n d u n d e r $ 10. 50;
101 a t $ 10. 50 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 ; 8 5 a t $ 11 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 . 50; 61 a t $ 1 1 . 50 a n d u n d e r $ 12; 17 a t $ 12 a n d




395

30 3

213

**

10

u n d e r $ 1 2 . 5 0 ; a n d 213 a t $ 1 2 . 5 0 a n d o v e r .
5 W h e re s e p a r a t e in fo r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t s h o w n , v i r t u a l l y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
6 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
7 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
8 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s : 40 a t $9* 50 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 ; 81 a t $ 1 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 . 50;
64 a t $ 1 0 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 ; 51 a t $ 1 1 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 . 5 0 ; 30 a t $ 1 1 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 ; 12 a t $ 12 a n d
u n d e r $ 1 2 . 5 0 ; a n d 186 a t $ 1 2 . 5 0 a n d o v e r .
9 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .
10 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s f o llo w s :
6 a t $ 9 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 ; 3 a t $ 1 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 .5 0 ;
6 a t $ 1 0 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 ; 18 a t $ 1 1 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 ; 3 a t $ 1 2 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 . 5 0 .

Table 9. Occupational earnings: New York City, N.Y.1—Regular and cutting shops
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)
A verage
Number
of
hourly,
w orkers aarnings

O c c u p a t i o n and se x

ALL

P R O D U C T I O N W O R K E R S 3. . ..............
h e n ..........................................
W O M E N ........... ............................

s e l e c t e d
a s s o r t e r s

p r o d u c t i o n

o c c u p a t i o n s

2.66

T7JS
AN0
UNDER
2. * 0

2.70

NUMBER
2.80 2.90

W
3.00

r k e r s

3.20

RECEIVINGSTRa
3 . 4 0 3.60 3.80

G H T - T I N E 1 0 U R L 1 C A R ' 11 n o s
4.00 4.20 4.40 4.60 4.80

(IN
5.00

3.80 4.00

of

2.50

2.60

2.70

2.80

2.90

3.00

3.20

3.40

3.60

4.20

4.40

4.60

4.80

5.00

5.50

6.020
3.005
3.015

*5.82
6.18
5.*5

11*
82
32

21
15
6

70
57
13

26
15
11

70
49

21

17
5
12

5*
29
25

67
37
30

98
57
41

231
88
143

27 0
138
132

165
82
83

250
156
94

302
174
128

240
120
120

177
53
124

124
51
73

566
207
359

36

A . 66

-

-

4

-

-

_

-

-

_

2

2

2

2

5

-

2

5

5

8
8

12
12

53
13
6

6

3

3

-

-

O L L A t tS) O F — _______________________________________________
5.50 6.00 6.50 7 .00 7.50 8.00 8 .50 9 . 0 0 9.50
AND
OVER
6 . 0 0 6 . 5 0 7 . 0 0 7,51) 8 . 0 0 8 . 5 0 9 . 0 0 9 . 5 0
544
179
365

592
166
426

51
22
22

76
19
16

459
62
397

438
20 9
229

3 03
2 05
98

181
_
-

159
14
14

236
218
18

19 7
19 2
5

125
100
25

-

264

-

259
5

4

? ....................................

7
*

In

, f i n a l ( e x a m i n e r s )5 ......
.
.......................................

162
135

5.3*
5.*8

T I N E . . . . ................................

28

7l*2

. . . ........... ..........................
T I N E . . . . ................................

112
1«

S E W E R S # H A N D ( F I N I S H E R S I ...............
T I N E . . ...................................
I N C E N T I V E . . . . . . . ...... ............
s e w i n g -m a c h i n e
o p e r a t o r s .
S I N G L E - H A N D ( T A I L O R ) S Y S T E M .........
T I N E ........... ..........................
i n c e n t i v e . . ................. .........
W O M E N ............ ..........................
I N C E N T I V E ..............................

s p e c t o r s
w o m e n

m e n

WORK

D I S T R I B U T O R S ! ........................

1

-

-

-

-

-

12.56
10.82

-

-

262
188
7*

*• * 6
*.01
5.59

-

-

-

-

821
110
711
668
582

5.52
5.92
5. * 6
5.44
5.*7

17
17
17
17

32

3.18

12

2

7
7

17
-

18
18

7
7

-

-

-

-

_

-

-

-

_

_

_

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

_
-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

17
17
-

54
51
3

14
14
-

41
33
8

9

-

_
-

7
7

10
7
3

7
7
-

3
-

20
20
20
20

8
8
8
8

22
22
5
5

17
17
17
17

17
17
17
17

24
24
7
7

20
6
14
20
14

19
3
16
19
16

33
3
30
33
30

2

2

5

-

-

2
2
2

5
5
5

-

-

-

17
17
-

-

-

-

-

3
3
3

6

-

-

-

-

T h e N e w Y o rk C ity a r e a c o n s i s t s o f B ro n x , K in g s, N e w Y o rk . Q u e e n s , a n d R ic h m o n d C o u n tie s ,

N . Y.
2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r tim e a n d fo r w o rk on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a te s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p le o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l of
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r tim e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v i o u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t r e ­
f le c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if t s in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . Su ch s h if ts , fo r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l
a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .




7
7

_

9

-

23
23
23
23

18
18

-

47

7 97
10

10
2

i

_

3

3
3

•

-

-

1
1

-

19
9
10

15
10
5

34
9

5
5

1 0
-

3

10

3

17
3
14
17
14

143
54
89
126
72

129
-

28
2
26
28
26

26
3
23
23
23

129
78
78

25
86
7
79
69
62

Ill
8
103
111
103

_
22
6
16
11
11

10

_
20
15
5
5
5

4

94

10

_

_
_

-

7

2
-

7
2
2

2
2
2

10

3 A p p r o x i m a t e l y 85 p e r c e n t of the w o r k e r s in r e g u l a r a n d c u ttin g s h o p s in the N ew Y o rk C ity
s u rv e y w e re tim e -r a te d .
4 W h e re s e p a r a t e i n f o r m a tio n b y s e x is n o t sh o w n , v i r t u a l l y a ll w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
5 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
6 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e m e n . a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
7 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
15 a t $ 1 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 . 50; 18 a t $ 1 0 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r
$ 1 1 ; 21 a t $ 1 1 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 . 5 0 ; 4 a t $ 1 1 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 ; a n d 39 a t $ 1 2 . 5 0 a n d o v e r.

Table 10. Occupational earnings: New York City, N.Y.1—Contract shops
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

ALL

PRODUCTION

W O R K E R S 14 . . . . . ________
3
2.

Number Ave rag e 2 . 3 0
of
hourly
AND
workers e a rnings JN0ER

2. A 0

2.50

2.60

2.70

N U M B E R )F W 0 R K E R S
2.80 2.90 3.00 3.20

RECE IVIN6
3.AO 3.60

STRA IG H T - T I HE H O U R L Y E A R N I N 6 S
3 . 8 0 A . 00 A . 20 A . A 0 A . 60 A . 80

2 . A0

O c c u p a t i o n and ac x

2.50

2.60

2.70

2.80

2.90

3.00

3.60

A . 00

A . 20

A.A0

A . 60

A . 80

5.00

5.50

6.00

144

60

99

12A

91

169

133

U S A

1046

1031

680

481

468

1280

1125

1211

18

14*028

$4.96

3.20

3. A 0

3.80

ii r
SELECTEO

PRODUCTION

(IN D O L L A R S ! OF —
5.00 5.50 6.00 6.50

7.00

7.50

8.00

8.50
_

9.00
_

6.50

7.00

7.50

8.00

8.50

9.00

9.50

566

430

451

311

201

161

105

926

A99

3A7

322

215

79

38

2A

36

18

19

24

26

9.50
AND
OVER

515
4 AA 1
7A

OCCUPATIONS5

28

20
CUTTERS

AND

INSPECTORS,

M A R K E R S ! _________________ ____
FINAL

( E X A M I N E R S ! 6 ......
.

255
237
15A

7.63
3.83

18
6

_

-

_

3

18

12

37
37

3A
34

20
20

18

6

38
38
P R E S S E R S . h a n o A N D M A C H I N E ............
iNCCNTIv e •••••••••••••••••••••

78
(5

6

6

8.A3
10.50

-

-

6

6

6

92
82
10
3

-

68
58

85

71
71

3

6

3

6

10 3 6
36
36

4

4

3
SEWERS.

HAND

( F I N I S H E R S ! . . . . . . . . ___

^4^52

15

712
SEUIN6-NACHINE

832

A . 72

15

60

SEUlNG-MACHINE OPERATORS.
S I N G L E - H A N D ( T A I L O R ! S Y S T E M 8. ......
D I S T R I B U T O R S . ........................

1

76

21

21

62

106

33

56

12

50

76

21

21

62

106

33

56

12

668

A26

28A

275

187

6

87

-

6

922

93 6 7
367

4

OPERATORS.
2.151
231
1.920

WORK

50

57

18

7 50
38

38

_

-

7 .0A5
685
20

T h e N e w Y o rk C i ty a r e a c o n s i s t s o f B r o n x ,

l4 f
14 0
A.9A
3.5A
3.96

36
26

5 A3
10,

22

1A

16

20

38

5A

16 A

205

339

-

-

-

-

-

~

-

-

9

K in g s , N e w Y o rk , Q u e e n s , an d R ic h m o n d C o u n t ie s ,

N . Y.
2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a te s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p l e o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l of
o c c u p a t i o n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d ie s m a y n o t r e ­
f le c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if t s in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s ta b l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u c h s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l
a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s t a b l i s h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .
* A p p r o x i m a t e l y 76 p e r c e n t o f th e w o r k e r s in c o n tr a c t s h o p s in N ew Y o rk C ity w e r e i n c e n tiv e ra te d .
4 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r i b u t e d a s f o llo w s : 46 a t $9» 50 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 ; 75 a t $ 1 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 . 50;
66 a t $ 1 0 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 ; 36 a t $ 1 1 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 . 5 0 ; 50 a t $ 1 1 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 ; 15 a t $ 1 2 a n d




163

31
3

39
A

98

3A

18

52

44
4

u n d e r $ 12. 50; a n d 153 a t ^ 1 2 .5 0 a n d o v e r .
5 W h e re s e p a r a t e in fo r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t show n, v i r t u a l l y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
6 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
7 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s :
12 a t $ 1 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 . 5 0 ; 14 a t $ 1 0 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r
$ 1 1 ; 12 a t $ 1 1 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 . 5 0 ; 6 a t $ 1 1 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 ; a n d 6 a t $ 1 2 . 5 0 a n d o v e r .
8 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .
9 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s : 40 a t $9* 50 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 ; 66 a t $ 1 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 . 50;
46 a t $ 1 0 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 ; 30 a t $ 1 1 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 . 5 0 ; 26 a t $ 1 1 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 ; 12 a t $ 12 a n d
u n d e r $ 1 2 . 50; a n d 147 a t $ 1 2 . 50 a n d o v e r.
10 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s fo llo w s : 6 a t $ 9 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 ; 3 a t $ 10 a n d u n d e r $ 1 0 .5 0 ;
6 a t $ 1 0 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 1 ; 18 a t $ 1 1 . 5 0 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 ; a n d 3 a t $ 1 2 a n d u n d e r $ 1 2 . 5 0 .

Table 11. Occupational earnings: Paterson-Clifton-Passaic, N.Y.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n in g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)
Number
2.30 2.40
Ave rage
of
AND
hourly
wo rk ers e a r n i n g s 1* U N D E R
2

O c c u p a t i o n and s e x

— H U M B E R T5r~U6RKn;5" R E C E I V I N G S T R A I G H T - t I H E H O U R L Y E A R N I N G S
2.50 2.60 2.70 2.80 2.90 3.00 3.20 3.40 3.60 3.80 4.00 4.40 4.80 5.20 5.60

2.40 2.50 2.60 2.70 2.80 2.90 3.00 3.20 3.40 3 .60 3.80
7
819
selected

production

occupations

14

3.83

23

13

1
2
1
2

31
31

31

66
6
6

FINAL

<E X A H I N E R S 16 ......
.

17
64
13
51

15
-h a c h i n e

operators

112
1

75

in

6

-

1

1

8.02
•
3.19

2

_

21
-

5
3

2

69
i

147

67

6
8

147

66

3

4

-

1

40

24

1

1

39

23

6.00 6.40 6.80
1 1
2 1 3
4
5
3
8 6

7.20 7.60
5
5

11

7
4

8.00 8.40 9 .80
18
7
15
12 6 15

9. 2 0
AND
OVER

9 .20

244
214

3.81

336
19

4.03
3.07

14
-

8
1

-

1
2
4

3

2

1
1
2
3

2 _
_
_
_
_
2
4
5
1

_
_
_
2

_
_
_
_
9

2
_
_
_
_
_
1

1

1
_
_
_

2
2
2
_
2

1
5

1

14

1

15

3
15
15

1

15
x
.

_

_

_

_

i

.

SEUING-HACHINE OPERATORS.
S I N G L E - H A N D ( T A I L O R ) S Y S T E H 7 .......
T H R E A D T R I H H E R S ( C L E A N E R S ) 6 ..........
.

1
i

1
4

8

13

17
17

17
15

19
19

52
26

2
1
2
1

33
33

14
14

13
13

13

15

30
4

19

30

33

95

36

20

8

1 T h e P a t e r s ’ n - C l i f t o n - P a s s a i c a r e a c o n s is t s of B e r g e n and P a s s a i c C o u n tie s , N. J .
o
2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r tim e an d f o r w o r k on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , an d l a t e s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p le of e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l of
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r tim e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v i o u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t
r e f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e of c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if t s in e m p l o y ­
m e n t a m o n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u ch s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u ­
p a tio n a l a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .




75

70

2

3.86
7.69

1
0

sewing

70

4.40 4.80 5.20 5.60

8.00 8.40 8.80

4*
10

INSPECTORS.

1.00

P0U.A ?S> 0
6.40 6.80 7.20 7.60

6.00

1

4
4
18

_

1
1

3
31

_

_

_

4

4

3

-

-

-

-

i

-

1

3 A p p r o x im a te ly 74 p e r c e n t of th e w o r k e r s in th e P a t e r s o n - C l i t t o n - P a s s a i c s u r v e y w e r e in c e n tiv e
4
5
6
7

W h e re s e p a r a t e in f o r m a tio n b y s e x is n o t show n, v i r t u a ll y a ll w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
V i r tu a lly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
V ir tu a lly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .

Table 12. Occupational earnings: Philadelphia, Pa.-N.J.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

O c c u p a t i o n and s ex

2.30 2 .40
Number Average
ANO
hourly
of
2
w o r k e r s e a r n i n g s 1 JNDER
2.40 2 .5 0

2 .50

2.60

2 .7 0

NUMBER OF WORKERS RECE IVI NG ST RA IG HT -T IM E HOURLY EARNINGS ( I N DOLLARS) OF —
2 .8 0 2.90 3 .0 0 3.20 3.40 3.60 3 .8 0 4 .0 0 4 .2 0 4 .4 0 4 .6 0 4 .8 0 5 .2 0 5 .6 0 6.00 6 .4 0

6 .8 0

7 .20

7 .60

8 .00

8 .40

2 .60

2 .70

2 .8 0

2 .9 0

3 .00

3.20

3.40

3.60

4 .2 0

4 .4 0

1 ,3 0 8
150
1 .1 5 8

$4.29
4 .92
4 .20

38
12
26

3
1
2

17
2
15

10
1
9

9
i
8

14
1
13

7
7

87
12
75

245
14
23 1

13 0
13
117

95
11
84

75
6
69

64
7
57

59
2
57

ASSORTFRS5 .......................................................................
.
WOMFN.............................................................................
CUTTERS AND MARKERS6 ..........................................
IN S P E C T O R S , FINAL (EXA MINE RS )5 ............
.
P R E S S E R S , HAND...........................................................
t i m e ..........................................................................
I N C E N T IV E ...........................................................
SEWERS, HAND ( F I N I S H E R S ) ..............................

38
34
61
43
96
30
66
36

3 .36
3 .35
7.0 2
3 .45
4 .8 6
4 .1 3
5 .20
3 .61

-

-

-

-

i
i

1
1

i
i

11
11

11
11

5
2

2
1

3
3

-

3.80 4 .0 0

-

-

I N C E N T IV E ...........................................................
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS,
SECT ION SYSTEM........................................................
I N C E N T IV E ...........................................................
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS,
SINGLE-HAND (T A IL OR ) SYSTEM7 ...............
THREAD TRIMMERS (CLEANERS)5........................
WORK DI ST R IB U T O R S 5 ................................................
.

15

3 .85

-

-

-

497
401

4 .11
4 .1 7

-

-

-

-

187
55
9

5 .6 6
3 .25
3 .87

-

-

4
i

2

5 .6 0

6 .0 0

6 .4 0

6 .8 0

7 .20

7 .60

8 .00

8 .4 0

8 .80

70
1
69

60
2
58

50
2
48

22
22

40
9
31

47
36
11

23
7
16

23
6
17

9
2
7

6

6
1
5

-

-

1
~
11

35
"
1

6
“
2

3

2
“
2

“

“
3

9
“
2

6

5
“
5

2
“
9
4
5
1

i

1

11

3

2

1

2

3

2

i

1

-

3
3

ALL PRODUCTION WORKERS3 .................................
MEN...................................................................................
WOMFN.............................................................................

8 .80
AND
OVER

4 .6 0
56
1
55

4 .8 0
43
43

5 .2 0

6

SELECTED PRODUCTION OCCUPATIONS4

1
“

-

-

"
1

i
-

4
2
2

-

-

1

-

-

-

-

-

2

2
*

-

*

2

2

1
14

2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a t e s h if ts . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p le of e s ta b l is h m e n t s , 'a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l of
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d ie s m a y n o t
r e f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e of c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if ts in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s ta b l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s . S u c h s h if t s , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n o c c u p a tio n a l




2
4
i
3
7

6
13
7
6
1

3
7
4
3
5

*
9
4
5
2

i
5
2
3
1

1
4
2
2
2

1

6
4
2
I

3

i

1

4

2

1

1

-

1

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

14 8
12 7

1 T h e P h i la d e l p h ia a r e a c o n s i s t s of P h i la d e l p h ia a n d D e la w a r e C o u n tie s , P a . , a n d C a m d e n C o u n ty ,
N. J.

21
6
6
14

60
44

47
30

34
25

33
22

30
23

32
26

23
20

29
27

21
20

14
14

7
4

4
4

1
1

5
5

4
4

3
3

2
2

2
22
3

1
2

6
-

7
“
1

11
2
2

11
1

9

28
“
1

23
"

22

7

12
"

20
“

6
“

8
“

10
“

2
”

2
•

a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .
° A p p r o x im a te ly 56 p e r c e n t of th e w o r k e r s in the P h i la d e l p h ia s u r v e y w e r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .
4 W h e re s e p a r a t e in f o r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t show n, v i r t u a ll y a ll w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
5 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
6 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
7 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t i v e - r a t e d .

-

Table 13. Occupational earnings: St. Louis, Mo.-lll.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n ’ s a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

O c c u p a t i o n and s ex

Number
Average 2 . 3 0 2 . 4 0
AND
of
hourly
w o r k er s e a r n i n g s 1*UNDER
2
2 .4 0 2.60

83
629

INSPECTORS,

FI NA L

(E X A M IN E R S ) ...............

27

3 .87

42
23
17
44
14
8

7 .01
3.93
3.82
4.81
4 .30
4 .5 8

4 .90
4 .1 9
3.75

3 .0 0

NUN HER DF WORKERS RECE IVIN G
3 .20 3.40 3.60 3 .8 0 4 .0 0 4 .2 0

STRA GHT- TIME HOURLY EARNINGS ( I N DOLLARS) OF—
4 .4 0 4 .6 0 4 .8 0 5 .0 0 5 .2 0 5 .4 0 5 .6 0 5 .8 0 6 .00 6 .2 0

2 .8 0

3 .0 0

3 .2 0

3.40

4 .6 0

4 .?4

58
7
21

2 .8 0

*4.36
5 .4 9
4.21

266

SELECTED PRODUCTION OCCUPATIONS4
A S S O R T F R S 5.......................................................................

2 .6 0

3.60

3 .8 0

4 .0 0

4 .2 0

4 .4 0

4 .8 0

5 .0 0

5 .6 0

5 .8 0

10
18

102

94

35

33

18

-

-

-

6 .0 0

6 .20

6 .4 0

6 80

7 .00

7 .40

6 .6 0

6 .8 0

7 00

7 .40

7.80

3

2

1

5

7]

6

3

5

1

.

.

1
78

-

-

-

-

7

7

-

10

-

7 .80
AND
OVER

19

_

2

-

-

38

6
1

7
2

1 T h e S t, L o u is M e tr o p o li t a n A r e a c o n s is t s of St. L o u is C ity , F r a n k lin , J e f f e r s o n , S t. C h a r le s ,
a n d S t. L o u is C o u n tie s , M o . ; a n d C lin to n , M a d iso n , M o n ro e , a n d S t. C l a ir C o u n tie s , III.
2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o rk on w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a te s h if t s . T h e s e
s u r v e y s , b a s e d o n a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p le o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e le v e l of
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s, c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v i o u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t r e ­
f le c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if ts in e m p lo y ­
m e n t a m o n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t s w ith d if f e r e n t p a y l e v e ls . Su ch s h if ts , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e a n




5 .4 0

6 .6 0

6

SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS,
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS,
SINGLE-HAND (T A IL O R ) SYSTEM6 ................
THREAD TRIMMERS (C L E A N E R S ) ........................

5 .2 0

6 .4 0

23

_

13

1

6

2

3

5

8

4

2

.

5

_
i

1
1

2

1

.
_
_

3

_

o c c u p a tio n a l a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s ta b l is h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n th e p e r i o d s
c o m p a re d .
3 A p p r o x im a te ly 58 p e r c e n t o f t h e w o r k e r s a r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .
4 W h e re s e p a r a t e i n f o r m a t io n by s e x i s n o t sh o w n v i r t u a ll y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
5 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
6 V i r tu a l ly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t i v e - r a t e d .

2

b e in g

Table 14. Occupational earnings: Wilkes-Barre—Hazleton, Pa.1
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s t r a i g h t - t i m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s 2 o f w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

Occupation and sex

ALL

P R O D U C T I O N W O R K E R S ...............
M E N ......................................
W O M F N ...................................

SELECTED PRODUCTION

Average
2 .3 0 2 .40
AND
hourly2
of
2
workers earnings1 UN0ER
2 .40 2 .50
5 ,8 1 9
352
5 .467

S 3.87
4 .6 3
3 .8 2

26
24
148
69
55
50
413
32
381
58
13
45
355
19
336
23
9
14

6 .40
6 .5 7
3.73
5.91
3.55
3 .5 6
5 .5 6
4 .0 4
5 .6 9
5.71
3 .97
6.21
5 .5 4
4 . 0B
5 .6 2
3.86
3 .7 8
3 .90

3 ,4 0 0
179
3.221
423
401
22
92

3 .8 4
3 .6 5
3 .8 5
3 .4 5
3 .42
4.0B
3 .7 2

149
22
12 7

30
5
25

-

-

2 .5 0

2 .60

2.70

NUMBER OF WORKERS RECE VING STRA,1GHT- ri M E HOURL
EARNINGS ( I N DOLLARS) OF
2 . 8 0 2 . 9 0 3 . 0 0 3 . 1 0 3 . 2 0 3 30 3 . 4 0 3 . 5 0 3 . 6 0 3 . 8 0 4 . 0 0 4 . 2 0 4 . 4 0 4 . 6 0 4 . 8 0 5 . 2 0

2 .60

2.70

2 .8 0

2 .9 0

61
10
51

43
12
31

48
8
40

3 .0 0

59
1
58

64
2
62

' -

-

-

3.10. 3 .2 0

“

3 .60

3 .8 0

4 .00

4 .2 0

4 .4 0

4 .6 0

4 .8 0

5 .2 0

5 .6 0

71 1 8 2 3
6
3
65 1820

322
9
313

790
13
777

332
12
320

314
20
294

274
18
256

200
19
181

12 0
3
1 17

235
25
210

116
13
1 03

8
-

5
“
1
1
66
12
54
11
6
5
55
6
49
i

159
1
1 58

100
17
83

-

-

-

1

24

8

2
2
-

6
5
1
1

16
14
13
5
8

-

-

1
1
2

-

4
3
7
7
2
2
5
5
-

6 .0 0

6 40

6 80

7 .20

6 00 6 . 4 0

6 80

7 20

7.60

104
64
40

48
7
41

28
5
23

26
3
23

87
18
69

3
3
“

67
7
“

75
15
60

OCCUPATIONS4

A D J U S T E R S 4 .................................
M E N . . . . .................................
A S S O R T F R S ; .................................
C U T T E R S A N D M A R K E R S 7 ...................
I N S P E C T O R S . F I N A L ( E X A M I N E R S ) .......
T I M E ..................................
P R E S S E R S . H A N D ...........................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
M E N ......................................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
W O M F N ...................................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
S E W E R S . H A N D ( F I N I S H E R S ) ..............
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
SEWING-MACHINE OPERATORS.
S E C T I O N S Y S T E M ..........................
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
T H R E A D T R I M M E R S ( C L E A N E R S ) ...........
T I M E ..................................
I N C E N T I V E ...........................
W O R K D I S T R I B U T O R S ’ ......................
.

-

“
-

1
1

-

*

-

1
1
2
2
2
2
“
-

-

“

-

-

“

-

-

11
11
-

15
5
10
9
9
-

26
5
21
9
8
1

22
5
17
7
7

23
15
8
18
18
-

“
-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

2

-

-

8
2
6
4
4
-

15
2
13
6
6
-

12
12
5
5

-

1
1

-

2
14
14
21
21
3

4
4
4
4
-

-

1 T h e W i l k e s - B a r r e — H a z le to n a r e c o n s i s t s o f L u z e r n e C o u n ty , P a .
2 E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y f o r o v e r t i m e a n d f o r w o r k o n w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d la t e s h i f t s .
T hese
s u r v e y s , b a s e d o n a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s a m p l e o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to m e a s u r e th e l e v e l o f
o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t i m e .
T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e w ith p r e v io u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t
r e f l e c t e x p e c te d w a g e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e s a m p le c o m p o s itio n , an d s h if t s in e m p lo y m e n t
a m o n g e s ta b l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y l e v e l s .
S u ch s h if t s , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e an o c c u p a ­
t io n a l a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t e s t a b l i s h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d ,
J A p p r o x im a te ly 71 p e r c e n t o f t h e w o r k e r s in th e W il k e s - B a r r e — H a z le to n s u r v e y w e r e i n c e n t iv e ra te d ,




3 . 3 0 J L iASL 3 . 5 0

141
21
1 20

5 60

-

13
5
8
5
1
4

18 1 5 3 8
67
18 1 4 7 1
11
115
107
11
-

5

f
t

11

243
11
232
17
12
5
2

2
2
80
2
25
24
10
10
2
2
8
8
7
4
3
307
20
287
165
165
-

38

.
10
-

-

9
6
3
6
6
3
3
1
1
-

37
7
30
2
2
35
7
28
5
3
2

237
3
234
22
22
16

18 0
9
171
7

.

5
5

.

7
7
42
-

2
7
3
21
21
-

-

2
-

36
36
2

33
“
33
5

28
“
28

13
13
2

21

21
21
-

2
34
34
-

5
28
28
-

28
“
28
2

2
11

-

3
4
-

11

11

_

_

“
2

3
“
8
8
“

A 7

*66

21
9

24
1
23
3

17

66
11

9
12
12

3
21
1
20

8
8
-

17
“
17
“

11
55

14

-

i

*

-

“

2

“

“

”

"

1 75
17
1 58
-

139
9
130
2
2
6

69

160
6
15 4
4
4

61
3
58
4
4

47

23

20

47

23

20

13
“
13

6
*
6

-

*
*

4

69
“

-

7 .60
AND
OVER

-

55

“

14
“
*
“

4 W h e re s e p a r a t e in fo r m a t io n by s e x is n o t s h o w n , v i r t u a l l y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w o m e n .
5 A ll o r v i r t u a l l y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
6 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s f o llo w s :
1 a t $ 7 .6 0 a n d u n d e r $ 8 ; 4 a t $ 8 a n d u n d e r $ 8 .4 0 ; and
2 a t $ 10 a n d o v e r .
7 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
8 W o r k e r s w e r e d i s t r ib u t e d a s f o llo w s : 22 a t $ 7 . 6 0 a n d u n d e r $ 8 ; 10 a t $ 8 o r u n d e r $ 8 ,4 0 ; 8 a t
$ 8 .4 0 a n d u n d e r $ 8 .8 0 ; 4 a t $ 8 . 8 0 a n d u n d e r $ 9 .2 0 ; 7 a t 9 .2 0 a n d u n d e r $ 9 .6 0 ; 7 a t $ 9 .6 0 and unde it
$10; and 8 a t $10 and o v e r.

Table 15. Occupational earnings: South Carolina
( N u m b e r a n d a v e r a g e s tr a ig h t - ti m e h o u r ly e a r n i n g s

O ccupation and s e x

of w o r k e r s in s e le c te d o c c u p a tio n s in w o m e n 's a n d m i s s e s ' d r e s s m a n u f a c tu r in g e s ta b l is h m e n t s , A u g u s t 1977)

2 . 2 0 2.<*0 2 . 6 0
Average
Number
AND
h o u r ly f
of
UNDER
workers ear nings
2 .0 0 2 .60 2 .8 0
1 ,518
130
1 ,388

$2.89
3 .70
2 .8 2

16
36

5. *8
2 .71

-

28
23
«7
12
10 3

4 .20
4 .21
2 .86
3.1 7
2.62

_
DO

815
22

ALL PRODUCTION WORKERS..3. ..........................
HEN..................................................................................
ROHEN............................................................................

249
3
206

2 .81
2 .84

134
8

330
15
315

299
15
279

HOHBER OF WORKERS RECEIVING
2 .8 0 3 .0 0 3 .2 0 3 .9 0 3 .6 0 3 .8 0

9 .0 0

9 .2 0

9 .9 0

9 .60

9 .8 0

5 .0 0

5 .2 0

5 .9 0

5 .6 0

5 .8 0

6 .00

6 .2 0

6.90

6.60

3 .00 .3 .2 0

5 . 90 5 . 6 0

5 .80

6 .0 0

6 .2 0

3 .9 0

3 .6 0

3 .8 0

9 .0 0

9 .2 0

9 .9 0

9 .6 0

9.8 0

5 .0 0

5 .20

112
18
99

75
10
65

39
6
33

31
8
23

26
6
20

18
6
12

18
5
13

9
6
3

2
2
-

10
8
2

1
“

-

-

-

-

-

9

2

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

4
4
10
6

2
2
-

129
3
126

165
9
1 56

i*

6

-

_

2
2

6 .9 0

6.60

6.8 0

1
1

3
3

2
2

2
2

_
_

3

-

2

2

_

_

-

-

_

-

-

-

2

_

_

_

-

-

-

3
2
1

SELECTEE PRODUCTION OCCUPATIONS3
ADJ US TE RS.4 ...................................................................
.
ASSORTEBS.5. ...................................................................

INS PE CT O RS , PINAL (EXA HIN ERS) . . . . . .
T I H E .........................................................................

2

-

-

-

16

6

16
2

12

_
-

30

2

6
2

4

-

-

11

14

7

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

.

_
_

_

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

9
l*
8

-

64
4

49
4

33

25

i«

15

-

-

_

SBBING-HACHINE OPERATORS,
210
4

186

68 ^
1

ROHEN.................. ..

1

...........................................

28

3 .0 8

-

2

6

1

E x c lu d e s p r e m i u m p a y fo r o v e r t i m e a n d fo r w o rk o n w e e k e n d s , h o lid a y s , a n d l a te
s h i f t s . T h e s e s u r v e y s , b a s e d on a r e p r e s e n ta ti v e s a m p le o f e s ta b l is h m e n t s , a r e d e s ig n e d to
m e a s u r e th e l e v e l o f o c c u p a tio n a l e a r n i n g s a t a p a r t i c u l a r t im e . T h u s , c o m p a r is o n s m a d e
w ith p r e v i o u s s tu d i e s m a y n o t r e f l e c t e x p e c te d w ag e m o v e m e n ts b e c a u s e o f c h a n g e in th e
s a m p l e c o m p o s itio n , a n d s h if ts in e m p lo y m e n t a m o n g e s ta b l is h m e n t s w ith d i f f e r e n t p a y
l e v e l s . S u c h s h if t s , f o r e x a m p le , c o u ld d e c r e a s e an o c c u p a tio n a l a v e r a g e , e v e n th o u g h m o s t
e s t a b l i s h m e n t s i n c r e a s e d w a g e s b e tw e e n p e r i o d s b e in g c o m p a r e d .




-

-

2 A p p r o x im a te ly 73 p e r c e n t o f th e w o r k e r s in th e S o u th C a r o li n a s u r v e y w e r e i n c e n ­
tiv e - ra te d .
3 W h e re s e p a r a t e in fo r m a t io n b y s e x is n o t sh o w n , v i r t u a ll y a l l w o r k e r s w e r e w om en.
4 V i r tu a l ly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e m e n , a n d w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
5 V i r tu a lly a ll w o r k e r s w e r e t i m e - r a t e d .
6 V ir tu a lly a l l w o r k e r s w e r e i n c e n t iv e - r a t e d .

Table 16. Method of wage payment
(Percent of production workers in women’s and misses’ dress manufacturing establishments by method of wage payment,1 13 selected areas,2 August 1977)

Method of
wage payment

Boston

Chicago

New York City

DallasFt. Worth

Fall River
and New
Bedford

Los
AngelesLong Beach

Miami

Newark and
Jersey City

Regular
shops3

Contract
shops

PatersonCliftonPassaic

Phila­
delphia

St. Louis

All shops

WilkesBarreHazleton

South
Carolina

.
..
All w o rk e rs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

Time-rated w o rk e rs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55.
.
.
Formal p la n s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
-.
.
Single r a t e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Range of rates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Individual ra te s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45.
.

42
31
31
12

61
6
(4)
5
55

41

45
12
8
4
33

58
3
3
55

41
41

42
3
2
1
39

85

24
1
1
_
23

26
4
4
21

44
4
4
41

42
42
42
-

29
4
4
25

25
3
3
22

.
.
Incentive w o rk e rs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
.
Individual piecew ork. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
.
Group p iecew ork. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Individual b o n u .s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Group bonus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -.

58
58
-

39
28
12

55
55
-

-

59
51
8
-

58
54
4
_

-

42
42
_
-

76
71
5
■ _
(4)

74
69
5
_
-

56
56
-

58
58
_
-

71
68
2
-

75
75
-

_

1

1
40
59
59
_
-

_

_
-

4
4
77
15
14
n

-

0

1 For definition of method of wage payment, see appendix B.
2 See footnote 1 of individual area tables 1-14 for definitions of selected areas.
3 Includes jobbing shops performing some manufacturing operations, such as cutting and packing and shipping, in
addition to regular (inside) shops.

ro
to

8

4 Less than 0.5 percent.
NOTE:

Because of rounding, sums of individual items may not equal totals,

Table 17. Scheduled weekly hours
(Percent of production workers in women’s and misses' dress manufacturing establishments by scheduled weekly hours,1 13 selected areas,2 August 1977)

Weekly hours

Boston

All w o rk e rs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
.
..
30 hours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
na
36 h o u r s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15. . .
.
37.5 h o u r s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
40 hours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 . .
..
9 5 hnnrc

Chicago
100

New York City

DallasFt. Worth

Fall River
and New
Bedford

Los
AngelesLong Beach

Miami

100

100

100

100

inn

( 4)
i

19

99

2
86

in n
100

Regular
shops3

Contract
shops

PatersonCliftonPassaic

Phila­
delphia

St. Louis

All shops

Wilkes. Ba rre Hazleton

South
Carolina

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

100

Q9

QX

Q1

q <;

mn

in n

2
7

_

8

1
6

_

in n
_

Newark and
Jersey City

_
5

_

4 Less than 0.5 percent.
1 Data relate to predominant schedule for full-time day-shift workers in each establishment.
2 See footnote 1 of individual area tables 1-14 for definitions of selected areas.
3 Includes jobbing shops performing some manufacturing operations, such as cutting and packing and shipping, NOTE: Because of rounding, sums of individual items may not equal totals.
in
addition to regular (inside) shops.




_
_

Qfi

_
_
4

_

_
64

Table 18. Paid holidays
(Paid holiday provisions for workers covered by International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union agreements1 in women’s and misses’
dress manufacturing establishments, 13 selected areas,2 August 1977)

Number of holidays annually
Area
9 days
Boston.....................................................
Chicago................................................... 10 days

Method of computing pay for pieceworkers
Payments were based on guaranteed rate for each craft.
Payments were based on average earnings.

Dallas-Ft. Worth3 ................................... Fall River and New B ed fo rd ............. 9 or 8 days

Payments were based on guaranteed rate for each craft.

Los Angeles-Long Beach4 .................. Miami5 ..................................................... Newark and Jersey C ity........................ 9 days

Payments ranged from $31.85 to $38.15 per day, according to craft.
Payments ranged from $31.85 to $38.15 per day, according to craft.

New York C ity........................................ 9 days
Paterson-Clifton-Passaic .................... 9 days

Payments ranged from $31.85 to $38.15 per day, according to craft.
Payments based on earnings in previous calendar quarter.

Philadelphia............................................ 8V? days
St. Louis................................................. 9 days in 6 shops; 9 days in Federal
election years, 8 days otherwise in 2
shops.

Payments based on earnings in the previous year.

Wilkes-Barre—Hazleton........................ 9 days

Payments ranged from $27.10 to $33.10 per day, according to craft.

South Carolina6 .................................... -

-

1These agreements were in effect In shops employing at least ninetenths of the workers In 7 areas; seven-eighths in New Y ork C ity;
three-fifths in Boston; one-third in South Carolina; one-tenth In
Miami; and 5 percent or less in Dallas-Ft. Worth and Los AngelesLong Beach.
2See footnote 1
1-14 for definitions of areas.
3 In Dallas, 25 o f In tablesestablishments studied were nonunion: 25
the 26
establishments provided paid holidays, usually 5 days annually, and
ranging from 5 to 8 days. One nonunion establishment provided no
paid holidays.

All 66 of the establishments studied In this area were nonunion:
42 establishments provided paid holidays, usually 6 days annually,
and ranging from 2 to 7 days.
in this area, 33 of the 35 establishments studied were nonunion:
23 of the establishments provided paid holidays, usually 5 to 7 days
annually, and ranging from 2 to 9 days.
° ln this area, 4 of the 7 establishments studied were nonunion: all
7 establishments provided paid holidays, ranging from 3 to 8 days
annually.
4

Table 19. Health, welfare, and vacation benefits
(Health, welfare, and vacation benefit provisions for workers covered by International Ladies' Garment Workers’ Union agreements1 in
women’s and misses’ dress manufacturing establishments, 13 selected areas,2 August 1977)

Area
Employer contribution3
Boston ...................................................... 11.13 percent

Vacation benefits
6 percent of worker’s earnings in
previous calendar year.

Health and welfare benefits
Sickness, hospitalization, surgical
supplemented by a major medical
program, maternity care, eyeglasses,
services at the union health center,
and death benefits.

C hicago..................................................... 1 percent to a health center fund; 1 week's pay after 1 year of service, Diagnostic and medical services at
5 percent in "cotton dress” shops 2 weeks after 3 years, 3 weeks after the union health center; hospitaliza­
or 4% percent in “silk dress” shops; 8 years, and 4 weeks after 15 years tion, surgical, and sick benefits.
or insurance premiums paid
in “cotton dress" shops. In “silk
directly.
dress" shops, 1 week’s pay after 1
year, 2 weeks’ pay after 2 years,
and 3 weeks’ pay after 5 years. All
vacation benefits were paid for
directly by the employer, and
benefits were prorated for 6
months but less than 1 year of
service. Payments were based on
earnings in the 20 weeks preced­
ing June 1.
Dallas-Ft. Worth4...................................... —
—
—
See fo o tn o te s a t end o f ta b le .




23

Table 19. Health, welfare, and vacation benefits— Continued
(Health, welfare, and vacation benefit provisions for workers covered by International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union
agreements 1 in women's and misses' dress manufacturing establishments, 13 selected areas,2 August 1977)
Health and welfare benefits

Vacation benefits

Employer contribution 3

Area

2 annual benefit payments totalling Short-term disability, hospitalization,
6 percent of the worker’s earnings surgical supplemented by a major
medical program, eyeglasses, tuber­
in the previous calendar year.
culosis treatment, blood trans­
fusions, anesthesia, and auxiliary
services; services at the union health
center; and death benefits.
-

Fall River and New Bedford.................... 11.25 or 11.00 percent

Los Angeles-Long Beach5 ...................... Miami6......................................................... -

3 annual vacation payments, 2
equal to 2 percent of annual earn­
ings up to a maximum of $170
each, the other ranging from $80
to $85, according to craft.

Doctor’s care, basic hospital and
surgical benefits supplemented by a
major medical program, disability
insurance, maternity, eyeglasses,
services at the union health center,
and death benefits.

New York City .......................................... 10.13 percent

3 annual vacation payments, 2
equal to 2 percent of annual earn­
ings up to a maximum of $170
each, the other ranging from $80
to $85, according to craft.

Doctor’s care, basic hospital and
surgical benefits supplemented by a
major medical program, disability
insurance, maternity, eyeglasses,
services at the union health center,
and death benefits.

Paterson-Clifton-Passaic........................ 10.13 percent

3 annual vacation payments, 2
equal to 2 percent of annual earn­
ings up to a maximum of $170
each, the other ranging from $80
to $85, according to craft.

Doctor’s care, basic hospital and
surgical benefits supplemented by a
major medical program, disability
insurance, maternity, eyeglasses,
services at the union health center,
and death benefits.

Philadelphia .............................................. 8.88 percent; in 1 shop, a different 3 annual vacation payments in
form of contribution co-financed most shops, 2 payments in 1 shop,
by jobber.
up to a maximum of $135 each.
Payments based on workers earn­
ings in the previous calendar year.

Short-term disability, hospitalization,
surgical supplemented by a major
medical program, maternity, patern­
ity, doctor’s care, diagnostic services,
eyeglasses, x-ray, blood transfu­
sions, and death benefits.

St. Louis.....................................................

All workers receive, directly from
the employer, vacation pay for 1
week after 1 year of employment
(prorated after 6 months but less
than 1 year of employment), 2
weeks after 3 years, and 3 weeks
after 5 years. Payments for piece­
workers based on earnings in the
previous year.
2 annual vacation payments equal
to 4 percent and 2 percent of
worker’s earnings in the previous
year.

Short-term disability, hospitalization,
surgical, treatment of tuberculosis
and mental illness, services at the
union health center, and death
benefits.

South Carolina7 ........................................

-

-

’See footnote 1, table 18.
2See footnote 1 in tables 1-14 for definitions of areas.
Employer contributions to the fund from which benefits were provided
were based on payrolls of workers covered by union agreements.
4ln Dallas, 25 of the 26 establishments studied were nonunion; 25
establishments provided paid vacations, typically 1 week of vacation pay
after 1 year of service; 17 establishments provided a maximum of 2 weeks’
vacation pay, most commonly after 3 or 5 years of service; while 5
establishments had provisions for more than 2 weeks’ pay. Health and
insurance benefits for which employers paid all or part of the cost were

periods of service; and 27 establishments had provisions for health and
insurance benefits, usually life, accidental death and dismemberment,
hospitalization, surgical, medical and major medical insurance.
6ln this area, 33 of the 35 establishments studied were nonunion. 26
provided paid vacations; typically 1 week of vacation pay after 6 months to
1 year of service; 8 establishments had provisions for more than 1 week’s
vacation pay, usually after longer periods of service than 1 year. Provisions
were made in 16 plants for health and insurance benefits, most often jointly
financed by employer and employee. The most frequently reported
benefits were: Life, accidental death and dismemberment, hospitalization,
surgical, basic medical, and major medical insurance.
7ln this area, 4 of the 7 establishments studied were nonunion. All 7
establishments provided paid vacations, typically 1 week after 1 year; 6
shops gave 2 weeks’ pay or more, usually after 3 or 5 years of service.
A ll shops provided health and insurance benefits—most frequently
hospitalization, surgical, medical and major medical insurance.

Newark and Jersey City ......................... 10.13 percent

percent in most shops; 4 ' k
percent in 2 shops.

4%

Wilkes-Barre—Hazleton ......................... 11.13 percent

p r o v id e d

by

23

e s ta b lis h m e n ts .

M o s t f r e q u e n t ly

re p o rte d

w e re

b e n e f it s f o r h o s p it a liz a t io n , s u r g ic a l, b a s ic m e d ic a l, m a j o r m e d ic a l,
a n d lif e in s u ra n c e .

_ ...

5A II66 of the establishments studied in the area were nonunion. Of these,
35 shops provided at least 1 week of vacation pay after 1 year of service; 16
establishments also had provisions for 2 weeks’ pay or more after longer




24

Short-term disability, hospitalization,
surgical supplemented by a major
medical program, blood transfu­
sions, anesthesia, services at the
union health center, and death
benefits.

Table 20. Retirement plans
( Retirement provisions for workers covered by International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union agreements1in women’s and misses’ dress
manufacturing establishments, 13 selected areas2, August 1977)

Employer contribution3 to a
Area
nationwide fund
Boston..................................................... 6% percent

Benefits to qualified workers under a nationwide fund
$100 a month at age 65 and a $500 lump-sum death benefit. Workers may
retire between ages 62 and 65 with proportionate benefit reduction for
each year prior to age 65. Totally disabled workers may retire with full
benefits at any age.

Chicago................................................... 6% percent in 8 shops; 6 percent in
2 shops.
Dallas-Ft. Worth4 ................................... Fall River and New Bedford................ 6% percent
Los Angeles-Long Beach5 .................. Miami6 ..................................................... Newark and Jersey C ity........................ 6% percent
New York C ity........................................ 6% percent
Paterson-Clifton-Passaic .................... 6% percent
Philadelphia............................................ 5 'A percent
St. Louis................................................. 6% percent in 6 shops; 6V4 percent in
2 shops
Wilkes-Barre—Hazleton........................ 6% percent
South Carolina7 .................................... 'See footnote 1, table 18.
3See footnote 3, table 19.
4Of the 26 establishments studied, 6 provided retirement pension
benefits.

5Of the 66 establishments studied, 7 provided retirement pension
benefits.
6Of the 35 establishments studied, 3 provided retirement pension
benefits.
7Of the 7 establishments studied, 3 provided retirement pension benefits.

2S ee f o o t n o t e 1 in ta b le s 1 - 1 4 f o r d e f in it io n s o f areas.




25

Appendix A. Regression Analysis
machine operators, female workers, time workers, and
section system sewing.
The coefficients provide an estimate of the propor­
tionate difference in earnings between establishments
with a specified characteristic and those establishments
with the suppressed alternative characteristic embodied
in the constant, other things being equal. For example,
table A -l provides the basis for estimates that for all
workers, earnings are about 24 percent higher in union
than in nonunion shops, and about 12 percent higher in
shops producing garments wholesale-priced at $49 and
over than in those producing garments wholesaling for
less than $22.50.
It should be emphasized that the regression analysis is
not sufficiently complete to say with certainty that it has
measured the truly independent impact on wage levels of
particular employee and establishment characteristics. As
tables A-l and A-2 show, the regression analysis left
unexplained about 25-41 percent of the variation in
average earnings levels for all production workers, cutters
and markers, hand pressers, and sewing-machine
operators, and considerably more of the variation in
earnings for the selected areas. (See coefficient of
determination, R:.) This means that other factors, not
included in the scope of the survey, influenced earnings.
However, by holding constant those characteristics
within the survey scope, a definite improvement in the
estimates for specified characteristics was obtained.

Conventional methods of analyzing wage variations
using published averages typically stop short of
measuring the independent influence on wage levels of
factors such as location and union contract status. The
independent effect of location on earnings in the dress
industry, for example, may be obscured somewhat by
differentials associated with unionization—a character­
istic found less commonly in southern shops.
One method of isolating the independent effect on
wages of various establishment and worker characteristics
is multiple regression. By this method, the estimated wage
differential for a given variable is independent of the
influence of other survey variables. The variables
included in tables A-l and A-2 are defined, when
necessary, in appendix B, Scope and Method of Survey.
In the regression analysis, one category of each of the
variables in the equation is not shown explicitly, but its
influence is embodied in the constant term. In tables A-l
and A-2, therefore, the categories represented by the
constant term are: Nonunion establishment, small
establishment size, dozen-pricing system, less than $22.50
per unit wholesale price, the combination of regular and
jobbing shops, and South Carolina (where the equation
refers to all areas combined). For cutters and markers,
female workers were included; for hand pressers, female
workers and payment on a time basis; and for sewing-




26

Table A-1. Regression analysis of straight-time hourly earnings, all production workers and selected occupations, women's dress
manufacturing, 13 areas combined, August 1977
( T v a lu e s s h o w n in p a r e n th e s e s )

All
Cutters
Sewingproduction
and
Hand machine
workers markers pressers operators
Constant (in dollars).........
2.950
3.527
1.694
2.354
(16.19)
(8.60)
(4.30) (13.09)
Variables
(coefficients in percent)

SewingCutters
All
Hand machine
production and
workers markers pressers operators
.367
.768
.256
.296
Fall River-New Bedford ...
(5.67)
(5.06)
(1.78)
( 6 . 68 )
Newark and Jersey C ity...

.390
(5.89)

.275
(1.83)

1.455
(8.26)

.487
(7.65)

Union establishment.........

New York City....................

.483
(8.00)
.217
(2.72)
.222
(3.15)

.477
(3.36)
.218
(0.93)
.341
(2.19)

1.410
(8.80)
1.306
(6.30)
.602
(4.13)

.379
(6.91)
.176
(2.60)
.375
(5.49)

.198
(3.50)
.230
(2.78)

.183
(1.25)
.323
(2.08)

.868
(6.44)
.803
(3.67)

.255
(4.83)
.316
(3.86)

Miami...................................

.077
(1.39)

.145
(1.12)

.109
(2.15)

.075
(1.40)
.201
(2.43)
.200
(3.70)

.039
(0.33)
.284
(1.79)
.202
(1.59)

.571
(4.26)
.421
(3.35)

.680

.592

$4.30

Item

Item

.238
(7.25)

.220
(4.65)

.353
(4.26)

.165
(5.14)

.048
(2.15)

.125
(3.16)

.048
(1.25)

.036
(1.87)

50 to 99 workers.........

.001
(0.03)

.020
(0.42)

.038
(0.79)

.044
(1.82)

100 workers or m ore..

-.019
(-0.63)

.045
(0.88)

.157
(2.38)

Unit pricing system...........

-.044
(-1.01)

-.032
(-0.48)

-.059
(-0.68)

.043
(1.45)
.004
(0.09)

.044
(2.42)

.076
(2.46)
.047
(1.50)
.160
(2.45)
-.023
(-0.72)

.078
(2.29)

.001
(0.05)

Dallas-Ft. W orth................

.288
(6.25)

St. Louis.............................

.228
(5.06)

.126
(5.76)
.067
(1.60)

-.027
(-0.65)

-.019
(-0.97)

-

.254
(6.05)

.090
(4.01)

Statistical information:
Adjusted coefficient of
determination (R2) __
Mean (Y).........................

Size of establishment:
20 to 49 workers.........

Wholesale price per unit:
$22.50 to $49..................
$49 and over ..................

.117
(5.16)

Male worker........................
Contract shop....................
Incentive pay system .......
Single-hand (tailor)
system.............................
Boston.................................

1

-.095
(-5.79)
1

2

.290
(3.31)

2

.055
(0.32)

2

.984
(3.69)

Paterson-Clifton-Passaic .
Philadelphia........................
Wilkes-Barre-Hazleton....
Chicago .............................

Los Angeles-Long Beach .

.132
(7.18)

Number of observations
(N) ...............................
Number of establishments (S) ...................

.371
(4.35)

1The coefficients for male and for incentive workers were not developed
for the all-production worker category, as they would tend to reflect the
relative concentration of such workers in particular occupations, rather
than the true earnings difference among workers performing the same job.
2Not applicable.
NOTE: Coefficients are expressed in percents (e.g., .198= 19.8percent).
Y is the mean of the earnings (dependent) variable weighted by production




.110
(

2 . 22 )

.417
(2.56)
.665
(5.19)

.339
(4.11)
.141
(2.92)

$6.60

.752
$6.44

.669
$4.11

454

245

389

534

454

226

332

387

workers. N is the number of observations. It often exceeds the number of
establishments (S) because separate observations were used for men and
women and for time and incentive workers in each firm reporting the
selected occupations. Dashes indicate insufficient observations of the
regressed characteristic to yield reliable results. T values (shown in
parentheses),relate to the following confidence levels: 1.67= 90 percent,
1.96 = 95 percent, and 2.58 = 99 percent.

27

Table A-2. Regression analysis of straight-time hourly earnings, all production workers and selected occupations, women’s dress
manufacturing, New York City and Los Angeles-Long Beach, August 1977

(T values shown in parentheses)

All production workers

Item
Constant (in dollars)...............................
Variables (coefficients in percent)
Union establishment...............................
Establishment size:
20 to 49 workers...............................
50 workers or m ore..........................
Contract shop..........................................
Wholesale price per unit:
$22.50 to $49....................................
$49 and o v e r....................................

Cutters and markers
Hand pressers
Sewing-machine operators
New York Los Angeles- New York Los Angeles- New York Los Angeles- New York Los AngelesCity
Long Beach
City
Long Beach
City
Long Beach
City
Long Beach
4.320
3.381
6.482
3.680
3.506
3.031
3.542
2.958
(32.13)
(22.82)
(12.90)
(9.33)
(13.39)
(22.30)
(5.20)
(7.10)
.307
(5.67)

.278
(4.27)

_

-

.050
(1.42)
-.071
(-1.68)

.056
(1.27)
.027
(0.48)

-.165
(-5.89)

.210
(3.41)

-.002
(-0.02)
-.026
(-0.27)

.038
(1.00)
-.035
(-0.70)

.005
(0.17)
-.004
(-0.10)

_

-

-.119
(-2.93)

-.051
(-0.34)

-.240
(-3.04)

-.107
(-1.06)

-.057
(-103)

-.120
(-3.16)

.015
(0.40)

.096
(1.91)

-.005
(-0.09)

.231
(2.17)

.123
(1.70)

.190
(1.86)

-.014
(-0.37)

-.034
(-0.85)

.107
(2.98)

.105
(1.59)

.047
(1.07)

-.007
(-0.05)
.414
(1.47)

.260
(3.32)

.239
(1.82)

.127
(3.00)

.158
(2.73)

.439
(4.01)

-.021
(-0.21)

.138
(1.42)

.002
(0.05)

.463
(3.29)

.249
(3.16)

.038
(0.54)

.116
(2.93)
.146
(4.61)

Incentive pay system .............................

2

2

Single-hand (tailor) system....................

3

.396
$5.22

-.101
(-0.80)

1
1

-

-

-

-

3

3

3

3

3

.284

.363

.304

.456

.221

159

$3.36
66

$7.61
74

$5.60
29

$9.13
106

$3.40
43

159

66

73

25

103

38

.103 ,
(2.51)
.309
$4.82
135
111

.377
$3.23
88
56

NOTE: Coefficients are expressed in terms of percents (e.g., .107 = 10.7
percent). Y is the mean of the earnings (dependent) variable weighted by
production workers. N is the number of observations. It often exceeds the
number of establishments (S) because separate observations were used
for men and women and for time and incentive workers in each firm
reporting the selected occupations. Dashes indicate insufficient
observations of either the regressed or the embodied characteristic to yield
reliable results. T values, [shown in parentheses], relate to the following
confidence levels: 1.67 = 90 percent, 1.96 = 95 percent, and 2.58 = 99
percent.

'To obtain adequate numbers of observations in the embodied constant,
this category was combined with the 8-to-19 worker group. Thus, the
embodied constant becomes establishments with 8 to 49 workers.
2The coefficients for male and for incentive-pay workers were not
developed for the all-production-worker category, as they would tend to
reflect the relative concentration of such workers in particular
occupations, rather than the true earnings difference among workers
performing the same job.
3Not applicable.




-

_

-.170
(-1.92)

2

Number of establishments (S ).......

.295
(2.17)
.166
(2.40)
.027
(0.30)

2

Mean (Y )............................................
Number of observations (N )...........

-

.068
(1.35)
.043
(0.70)
-.007
(-0.15)

Male worker..............................................

Statistical information:
Adjusted coefficient of
determination (R2) ........................

_

28

Appendix B. Scope and Method of Survey

Scope of survey

Scheduled weekly hours

The survey included establishments primarily engaged
in manufacturing women’s, misses’ and juniors’ dresses,
other than housedresses (part of industry 2335 as defined
in the 1972 edition of the Standard Industrial
Classification Manual prepared by the U.S. Office of
Management and Budget). In addition to regular (inside)
and contract shops, jobbing shops, which performed
some manufacturing operations, such as cutting,
finishing, packing, and shipping, also were included.
Establishments primarily manufacturing pants-dress en­
sembles were included if the tailoring skills involved were
comparable to those required for dresses.
The establishments selected for study were drawn from
units employing eight workers or more at the time of
reference of the data used in compiling universe lists.

Data on weekly hours refer to the predominant work
schedule for full-time production workers employed on
the day shift.
Supplementary wage provisions

Supplementary benefits are presented primarily in
terms of the provisions of collective bargaining
agreements with the International Ladies’ Garment
Workers’ Union, which were in effect in establishments
employing about two-thirds of the workers in the 13 areas.
Data for nonunion establishments also are summarized
briefly.
The number of establishments and workers studied by
the Bureau, as well as the number estimated to be within
the scope of the survey during the payroll period studied,
are shown in table B-l.

Method of wage payment

Tabulations by method of wage payment relate to the
number of workers paid under the various time and
incentive wage systems. Formal rate structures for time­
rated workers provide single rates or a range of rates for
individual job categories. In the absence of a formal rate
structure, pay rates are determined primarily by the
qualifications of the individual worker. A single rate
structure is one in which the same rate is paid to all
experienced workers in the same job classification.
Learners, apprentices, or probationary workers may be
paid according to rate schedules which start below the
single rate and permit the workers to achieve the full job
rate over a period of time. An experienced worker
occasionally may be paid above or below the single rate
for special reasons, but such payments are exceptions.
Range-of-rate plans are those in which the minimum,
maximum, or both of these rates paid experienced
workers for the same job are specified. Specific rates of
individual workers within the range may be determined
by merit, length of service, or a combination of these.
Incentive workers are classified under piecework or
bonus plans. Piecework is work for which a predetermined
rate is paid for each unit of output. Production bonuses
are based on production in excess of a quota or for
completion of a job in less than standard time.



Method of study

Data were obtained by personal visits of the Bureau’s
field staff. The survey was conducted on a sample basis.
To obtain appropriate accuracy at minimum cost, a
greater proportion of large establishments than of small
was studied. In combination of the data, however, all
establishments were given their appropriate weight. All
estimates are presented, therefore, as relating to all
establishments in the industry, excluding only those
below the minimum size at the time of reference of the
universe data.

Establishment definition

An establishment is defined for this study as a single
physical location where industrial operations are
performed. An establishment is not necessarily identical
with the company, which may consist of one
establishment or more. The terms “establishment” and
“shop” have been used interchangeably in this bulletin.

29

Table B-1. Estimated number of establishments and employees within scope of survey and
number studied, women’s and misses’ dress manufacturing industry, August 1977
Number of establishments3
Area1

Workers in establishments
Within scope of study

Within scope of
study

Actually studied

Actually studied
Total3

Production workers

T o t a l. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19.20 . .
.. ..

454

6 5 601

52 374

2 6 82 9

Boston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13. . .
.
C hicago. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 . .
..
Dallas-Ft. W o r t h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56. .
.
Fall River and New B e d fo rd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
..
Los Angeles-Long B e a c. h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
.
..
M ia m i. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111. .
Newark and Jersey C i t y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
..
1,044
New York C i t .y. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Regular shops4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .461
..
.
Contract shops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
P aterson-Clifton-Passaic. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
..
Philadelphia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 .
..
St. L o u is . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10. . .
.
..
W ilkes-B arre-Hazleton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
South C arolina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
.
.

7
10
26
24
66
35
29
159
63
96
18
15
8
50
7

698
998
4,420
4,540
9,629
3,490
3 jl3 7
27,438
12,282
15,156
969
1,503
865
6,277
1,637

612
734
3,017
4,165
7,744
3,012
2,793
20,048
6,020
14,028
892
1,308
'712
5,819
1,518

534
738
2,831
4,089
3,179
1,406
15 82
5,676
2,633
3,043
677
1,207
819
3,074
1,017

1 See footnote 1 of individual area tables 1-14
areas.
3 Includes only those establishments with 8 workers
reference of the universe data.

for
or

definitions
more

at

of
the

descriptions.) The occupations were chosen for their
numerical importance, their usefulness in collective
bargaining, or their representativeness of the entire job
scale in the industry. Working supervisors, apprentices,
learners, beginners, trainees, and handicapped, part-time,
temporary, and probationary workers were not reported
in selected occupations but were included in the data for
all production workers.

Employment

Estimates of the number of workers within the scope of
the study are intended as a general guide to the size and
composition of the labor force included in the survey. The
advance planning necessary to make a wage survey
requires the use of the lists of establishments assembled
considerably in advance of the payroll period studied.

Wage data

Production workers

Information on wages relates to straight-time hourly
earnings, excluding premium pay for overtime and for
work on weekends, holidays, and late shifts. Incentive
payments, such as those resulting from piecework or
production bonus systems, and cost-of-living bonuses,
were included as part ot the workers’ regular pay; but
nonproduction bonus payments, such as Christmas or
yearend bonuses, were excluded.
Average (mean) hourly rates or earnings for each
occupation or category of workers, such as production
workers, were calculated by weighting each rate (or
hourly earnings) by the number of workers receiving the
rate, totaling, and dividing by the number of individuals.
The hourly earnings of salaried workers were obtained by
dividing straight-time salary by normal (or standard)
hours to which the salary corresponds.

The term “production workers,”as used in this bulletin,
includes working supervisors and all nonsupervisory
workers engaged in nonoffice functions. Administrative,
executive, professional, and technical personnel and
force-account construction employees, who were utilized
as a separate work force on the firm’s own properties,
were excluded.

Occupations selected for study

Occupational classification was based on a uniform set
of job descriptions designed to take account of
interestablishment and interarea variations in duties
within the same job. (See appendix C for these job




3 Includes executive,
professional,
office, and other workers
in addition
to
selected
the production worker category shown separately.
time4 Includes jobbing shops performing some manufacturing operations, such as
of
cutting and packing and shipping, in addition to regular (inside) shops.

30

Appendix C. Occupational Descriptions
The primary purpose of preparing job descriptions for the Bureau’s wage surveys is
to assist its field representatives in classifying into appropriate occupations workers
who are employed under a variety of payroll titles and different work arrangements
from establishment to establishment and from area to area. This permits the grouping
of occupational wage rates representing comparable job content. Because of this
emphasis on interestablishment and interarea comparability of occupational content,
the Bureau’s job descriptions may differ significantly from those in use in individual
establishments or those prepared for other purposes. In applying these job
descriptions, the Bureau’s field representatives are instructed to exclude working
supervisors, apprentices, learners, beginners, trainees, and handicapped, part-time,
temporary, and probationary workers.
Adjuster

ered cutting machine. May spread or lay up cloth on cutting
table. Workers who specialize in cutting or in marking and
workers engaged in marking and cutting linings and trim­
mings are included.
Specialized markers using perforated patterns, and mark­
ing by use o f talcum, are excluded as are all workers who
specialize in spreading cloth.

(Sewing-machine repairer)
Adjusts and repairs sewing machines used in the estab­
lishment. Work involves most of the following: Examining
machines faulty in operation to diagnose source of trouble;
dismantling or partly dismantling machines, replacing
broken or worn out parts or performing other repairs, and
reassembling machines; adjusting machines to function
efficiently by turning adjustment screws and nuts; regula­
ting length of stroke of needle and horizontal movement
feeding mechanism under needle; replacing or repairing
transmission belts; preparing specifications for major
repairs and initiating orders for replacement parts; using a
variety of handtools in fitting and replacing parts. May also
do adjustments on pressing machines.

Inspector, final (examiner)

Examines and inspects completed garments prior to pro­
cessing or shipping. Work involves determining whether the
garments conform to shop standards of quality, and mark­
ing defects such as dropped stitches, bad seams, etc. May
make minor repairs. In many shops manufacturing inex­
pensive garments there will be no inspectors falling within
this classification; in those shops whatever inspection is
carried on is usually performed by thread trimmers, who
may only casually inspect garments and are, therefore, ex­
cluded.

Assorter

(Garment bunder, assembler)
Gathers garment parts after they are cut, assembles or
groups them into bundles or batches for distribution to
sewing units. May match pieces by color, size, and design
and place an identifying number or ticket in each bundle or
on each piece. If working under a section system, groups
pieces for each garment section together; under tailor
system, bundles all pieces of a dress together.
Workers assembling cloth before it is cut, and folders at
the end of the production process assembling completed
pieces just before packaging, are excluded.

Presser

Performs pressing operations (finish or under), on gar­
ments or garment parts by means of hand-pressing iron
and/or powered press or mangle.
For wage study purposes, pressers are classified by type
of pressing equipment, as follows:
Presser, hand
Presser, machine
Presser, hand and machine

Cutter and marker

Workers are classified as “Presser, hand and machine”
when sizable proportions of their work are performed by

Marks the outlines of various garment parts on a ply of
fabrics and cuts out parts with shears, hand knife, or pow­



31

each of the two methods. Otherwise, the predominant type
of pressing is the determining factor in classification.

Sewer, hand (finisher)

(Bench worker)
Performs sewing operations by hand including sewing on
buttons, making buttonholes, stitching edges, closing open­
ings that have been left by various hand and machine opera­
tions. Workers who specialize in sewing tickets or labels are
excluded.

Sewing-machine operator, section system

Sewing-machine operator, single-hand (tailor) system

Performs all the standard sewing-machine operations
involved in the manufacture of a complete garment. Work
involves assembling and joining all parts of the garment
except those added by finishers. Is usually an experienced
operator working on better-grade apparel in which the
variety of design is so great and style changes so frequent
as to prevent the economical use of a section system.
Workers, employed in single-hand system shops, who
pair-up and work as a team and divide work tickets equally
are included. This arrangement is informal, in contrast to
the section system in which rates are established for indi­
vidual operations.
Thread trimmer (cleaner)

(Clipper)
Uses a standard or special purpose sewing machine to
perform the sewing operations required in making parts of
garments, joining parts made by others, joining various
sections together, or in attaching previously completed
parts to partially completed garments, but does not con­
struct the entire garment. In shops that operate entirely on
a section (or bundle) system, this classification would in­
clude all sewing-machine operators (except buttonhole
makers and button sewers) without any differentiation of
operators by type of machine or operation performed. In
shops that operate partly on a section system, this classifi­
cation would include all operators who do not construct an
entire garment.




Trims loose thread ends, basting threads, and seam edges
of garments prior to pressing or packing. This classification
includes trimmers using scissors or power equipment.
Workers who also carefully examine and inspect garments
are classified as inspectors, final.
Work distributor

Carries or trucks garments in various stages of comple­
tion to the worker who is to perform the next operation
on garment. May exercise some discretion in distribution
work, but has no supervisory responsibilities.

32

Industry Wage Studies
The most recent reports providing occupational wage
data for industries included in the Bureau’s program of
industry wage surveys since 1960 are listed below. Copies
are for sale from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S.
Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402, or
from any of its regional sales offices, and from the

regional offices of the Bureau of Labor Statistics shown
on the inside back cover. Copies that are out of stock are
available for reference purposes at leading public, college,
or university libraries, or at the Bureau’s Washington or
regional offices.
Manufacturing—Continued

Manufacturing

Structural Clay Products, 1975. BLS Bulletin 1942
Synthetic Fibers, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1975
Textile Dyeing and Finishing, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1967
Textiles, 1975. BLS Bulletin 1945
Wages and Demographic Characteristics in Work Cloth­
ing Manufacturing, 1972. BLS Bulletin 1858
West Coast Sawmilling, 1969. BLS Bulletin 1704
Women’s and Misses’ Coats and Suits, 1970. BLS Bulle­
tin 1728
Women’s and Misses’ Dresses, 1977. BLS Bulletin 2007
Wood Household Furniture, 1974. BLS Bulletin 1930

Basic Iron and Steel, 1972. BLS Bulletin 1839
Candy and Other Confectionery Products, 1975. Bulletin
1939
Cigar Manufacturing, 1972. BLS Bulletin 1796
Cigarette Manufacturing, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1944
Corrugated and Solid Fiber Boxes, 1976. BLS Bulletin
1921
Fabricated Structural Steel, 1974. BLS Bulletin 1935
Fertilizer Manufacturing, 1971. BLS Bulletin 1763
Flour and Other Grain Mill Products, 1972. BLS Bulletin
1803
Fluid Milk Industry, 1973. BLS Bulletin 1871
Footwear, 1975. BLS Bulletin 1946
Hosiery, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1987
Industrial Chemicals, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1978
Iron and Steel Foundries, 1973. BLS Bulletin 1894
Leather Tanning and Finishing, 1973. BLS Bulletin 1835
Machinery Manufacturing, 1974-75. BLS Bulletin 1929
Meat Products, 1974. BLS Bulletin 1896
Men’s and Boys’ Separate Trousers, 1974. BLS Bulletin
1906
Men’s and Boys’ Shirts (Except Work Shirts) and Night­
wear, 1974. BLS Bulletin 1901
Men’s and Boys’ Suits and Coats, 1976. BLS Bulletin
1962
Miscellaneous Plastics Products, 1974. BLS Bulletin
1914
Motor Vehicles and Parts, 1973-74. BLS Bulletin 1912
Nonferrous Foundries, 1975. BLS Bulletin 1952
Paints and Varnishes, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1973
Paperboard Containers and Boxes, 1970. BLS Bulletin
1719
Petroleum Refining, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1948
Pressed or Blown Glass and Glassware, 1975. BLS Bulle­
tin 1923
Pulp, Paper, and Paperboard Mills, 1972. BLS Bulletin
1844
Shipbuilding and Repairing, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1968
Southern Sawmills and Planning Mills, 1969. BLS Bulle­
tin 1694



Nonmanufacturing
Appliance Repair Shops, 1975. BLS Bulletin 1936
Auto Dealer Repair Shops, 1973. BLS Bulletin 1876
Banking and Life Insurance, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1988
Bituminous Coal, January 1976-March 1981. BLS
Bulletin 1999
Communications, 1976. BLS Bulletin 1991
Contract Cleaning Services, 1974. BLS Bulletin 1916
Contract Construction, 1973. BLS Bulletin 1911
Crude Petroleum and Natural Gas Production, 1972.
BLS Bulletin 1797
Department Stores, 1973. BLS Bulletin 1869
Educational Institutions: Nonteaching Employees, 1968—
69. BLS Bulletin 1671
Electric and Gas Utilities, 1972. BLS Bulletin 1834
Hospitals, 1975-76. BLS Bulletin 1949
Hotels and Motels, 1973. BLS Bulletin 1883
Laundry and Cleaning Services, 1968. BLS Bulletin 1645'
Metal Mining, 1972. BLS Bulletin 1820
Motion Picture Theaters, 1966. BLS Bulletin 1542'
Nursing Homes and Related Facilities, 1976. BLS Bulle­
tin 1964
Scheduled Airlines, 1975. BLS Bulletin 1951
Wages and Tips in Restaurants and Hotels, 1970. BLS
Bulletin 1712
'Bulletin out of stock.

33




Bureau of Labor Statistics
Regional Offices

R e g io n I

1603 JFK Federal Building
Government Center
Boston. Mass 02203
Phone: (617) 223-6761

R e g i o n IV

1371 Peachtree Street, NE
Atlanta. Ga 30309
Phone: (404)881-4418
R e g io n V

R e g i o n I!

Suit: 3400
1515 Broadway
New York. N Y 10036
Phone: (212) 399-5405
R e g io n III

3535 Market Street
P O Box 13309
Philadelphia. Pa 19101
P hone:(215) 596-1154




9th Floor
Federal Office Building
230 S Dearborn Street
Chicago, III 60604
Phone: (312) 353-1880

R e g io n s V II a n d V I I I *

911 Walnut Street
Kansas City. Mo 64106
Phone: (816) 374-2481
R e g i o n s IX a n d X * *

450 Golden Gate Avenue
Box 36017
San Francisco, Calif 94102
Phone: (415) 556-4678

R e g io n V I

Second Floor
555 Griffin Square Building
Dallas. Tex 75202
P hone:(214) 749-3516

Regions VII and VIII are serviced
by Kansas City
“Regions IX and X are serviced
by San Francisco