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U N IT E D S T A T E S D E P A R T M E N T OF L A B O R
L. B. Schwellenbach, Secretary
BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS
Ewan Clague, Commissioner
+
Employment and Earnings in the
Philadelphia K nitted' Outerwear
Industry, 1944 and 1945
Bulletin 7\[o. 887
For sale by the Superintendent o f Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office
Washington 25, D. C. - Price 5 cents
Letter of Transmittal
United States D epartment op L abor,
B ureau of L abor Statistics,
Washington, D . C., November 4 ,1 9 4 0 ,
The Secretary of L abor :
I have the honor to transmit herewith a report on employment and earnings
in the Philadelphia Knitted Outerwear industry, 1944 and 1945. This report
was prepared in the Philadelphia regional office by George E. Votava.
E wan C lague, Commissioner,
Hon. L. B . SCHWELLENBACH,
Secretary o f Labor,
Contents
Page
Employment and hours of work_________
Hourly earnings_________________________
Annual earnings________________________
(H )
1
3
4
B ulletin 7{p. 887 o f the
U nited States Bureau o f Labor Statistics
[Reprinted from the M onthly L abor R e v iew , August 1946]
Employment and Earnings in the Philadelphia
Knitted-Outerwear Industry, 1944 and 1945
T H E knitted-outerwear industry in Philadelphia has had a long
history of successful collective bargaining. In 1945, practically all
of the manufacturers in this city had agreements with the Knit
Goods Workers7 Union, Local 190 of the International Ladies7 Gar
ment Workers7 Union (AFL). These firms are members of the
Knitted Outerwear Manufacturers Association and operate under a
master agreement which provides, among other matters, that em
ployers are to furnish the union with weekly transcripts of pay-roll
records for each employee.1 After consultation with the Emitted
Outerwear Manufacturers Association, the union made these unusual
record cards of members7 hours and earnings available to the Bureau
for use in this study.
It is recognized that there were slight imperfections in the data.
It was impossible, for example, to exclude learners and handicapped
workers, as is normally done in the Bureau7s wage studies. Further
more, the occupational classifications were not always up to date,
and working foremen were probably included in some cases under
other occupational titles. Nevertheless, the results are deemed fairly
accurate, and slight inaccuracies which may exist do not seriously
limit the validity of the material.
Employment and Hours of Work
The number of workers employed in the Philadelphia knittedouterwear industry averaged about 2,770 in 1943 and approximately
3,200 in 1945. Twenty-four, or nearly half of the establishments
included in this study, had fewer than 50 workers, and 15 employed
between 50 and 100 workers.
The greater average employment in 1945 does hot represent a cor
responding increase in the labor force, because turn-over rose con
siderably during this period. Between 1944 and 1945 the proportion
of all employees who worked less than 11 weeks increased from 26
to 32 percent, while those with an employment record of 46 weeks or
1 Under the arrangement with the union, the employer contributes amounts equal to 4 percent of the
total weekly wages of the union members for the purpose of financing various benefits. From this fund the
union, during 1944, provided vacation pay to its members based on total income for a designated period,
with a maximum o f $38.00 and a minimum of $22.00. Persons in military service received $25.00. Sick
benefits of $10.00 per week were paid for a maximum of 10 weeks during the year after an initial 4 days of
illness. In addition, hospitalization of $3.00 a day up to 21 days and unlimited medical service at the union
health center were provided. In 1945, the maximum vacation pay was increased to $50.00 and sick benefits
to $12.00 per week. A post-pregnancy allowance of $50.00 and a surgical allowance up to $50.00 was provided.
722865°—46
(1 )
2
more declined from 42 to only 36 percent in the same period. (See
table 1.) M any workers from other textile industries, who were
temporarily unemployed because of war conditions in 1945, took
short-term employment in the knitted-outerwear industry.
Among the selected occupations listed in table 1, cutters showed the
greatest continuity of employment, averaging 43 weeks in 1944 and
38 weeks in J945. The greatest turn-over was indicated for brushers,
folders and packers, and examiners and trimmers. About 27 percent
of their total number were employed in the industry for less than 6
weeks in 1944; over 30 percent worked this short time in 1945.
Although the scheduled workweek remained unchanged at 40 hours
between 1943 and 1945, average actual hours worked declined from
39.0 in 1943 and 38.3 in 1944 to 37.7 in 1945. In large part this
reduction was due to less overtime being worked in the latter period
and to the increase in labor turn-over.
T
able
1.— Distribution o f Workers in Philadelphia Knitted-Outerwear Industry, by
Number o f Weeks Worked During 1944 and 1945
Number of workers in selected occupations
Number of weeks worked
A ll
workers
Brushers
Cutters
Examin
ers and Finishers
trimmers
Folders
and
packers
Knitters
1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945
1 to 5 weeks........................ 620 951
356 488
6 to 10 weeks......................
260 313
11 to 15 weeks___________
16 to 20 weeks..................... 195 214
21 to 25 weeks.................... 160 161
140 159
26 to 30 weeks___________
31 to 35 weeks..................... 130 171
36 to 40 weeks..................... 134 138
41 to 45 weeks..................... 206 214
46 to 51 w e e k s.................. 1,163 1,224
52 weeks............................. 406 371
60
10
6
3
4
1
45
11
4
6
3
2
3
7
3,770 4,404
96
T otal!....................
2
1
2
16
3
5
6
6
3
2
3
3
7
5
52
45
92
137
6
2
1
65
36
120
80
45
33
18
15
17
22
24
120
37
201
82
47
41
35
20
28
21
25
124
32
28
27
11
4
10
3
8
7
13
51
12
44
14
12
11
8
11
6
5
9
61
12
56
37
32
15
10
10
11
2
13
48
26
66
49
19
18
7
14
18
12
14
48
22
12
7
8
6
4
6
5
3
6
92
66
35
17
17
8
8
6
9
3
8
93
55
155
531
656
174
193
260
287
215
259
15
11
12
4
3
Yearly average (weeks)___ 30.9 27.9 10.9 17.0 43.4 38.0 25.1 22.1 29.2 28.6 24.5 24.3 42.6 35.7
Number of workers in selected occupations—Continued
Number of weeks worked
Merrow
Menders operators
Pressers
Special
Singer
machine
operators operators
Winders
Miscel
laneous
1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945
1 to 5 weeks......................
6 to 10 weeks......................
11 to 15 weeks....................
16 to 20 weeks....................
21 to 25 weeks.....................
26 to 30 weeks___ ________
31 to 35 weeks.....................
36 to 40 weeks................... .
41 to 45 weeks.....................
46 to 51 weeks.....................
52 weeks..............................
10
5
2
1
2
2
2
2
7
41
12
Total.........................
86
2
4
4
35
16
38
29
33
30
18
21
20
24
31
238
50
54
35
29
17
17
20
24
25
38
239
49
18
9
8
10
3
4
5
5
7
45
16
35
21
13
9
5
7
3
2
13
44
15
27
16
19
16
22
21
14
15
33
130
45
54
36
22
18
18
16
14
21
31
138
23
24
29
19
15
21
19
12
13
25
136
28
47
50
34
21
15
24
12
16
25
159
34
8
7
7
8
7
6
2
8
5
42
10
16
13
11
5
4
4
8
6
10
35
9
89
532
647
130
167
358
391
341
437
110
121
6
7
6
4
5
214
94
64
51
39
29
31
24
34
161
59
333
141
87
54
33
37
39
20
33
168
65
800 1,010
Yearly average (weeks)___ 38.6 36.6 37.1 36.3 33.3 28.4 36.6 32.0 35.4 32.4 34.9 30.1 23.9 20.8
3
H ourly Earnings
Straight-time hourly earnings2 of workers with 6 or more weeks
of employment in the Philadelphia knitted-outerwear industry in
creased from 88.2 cents in 1944 to 94.5 cents in 1945. (See table 2.)
Although individual earnings ranged from 40 cents to over $2.00 per
hour, over 65 percent of the employees in both years received between
45 cents and $1.00. However, the proportion with average earnings
of $1.00 or more per hour increased from 25 to 33 percent between
1944 and 1945.
Cutters and pressers, predominantly men, were the highest paid
employees, earning $1.35 and $1.26 per hour, respectively, in 1944,
and $1.41 and $1.40 in 1945. Among the occupations where women
were employed in large numbers, Singer operators had the highest
earnings— $1.03 per hour in 1944 and $1.11 in 1945.
T able 2.— Distribution o f Philadelphia Knitted-Outerwear Workers Employed 6 Weeks
or M ore in 1944 and 1945, by Straight-Time Hourly Earnings
Number of workers in selected occupations
All work
ers
Brushers
Classified hourly earnings
Examin
ers and Finishers
trimmers
Cutters
Folders
and
packers
Knitters
1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945
36
165
441
260
224
174
202
174
171
144
155
176
153
126
113
147
102
80
72
59
36
35
63
52
26
15
16
40
2
2
8
5
7
2
Total— .................. 3,150 3,457
36
40.0 to 44.9 cents_________
45.0 to 49.9 cents..... ...........
50.0 to 54.9 cents..... ...........
55.0 to 59.9 cents.................
60.0 to 64.9 cents..... ...........
65.0 to 69.9 cents................
70.0 to 74.9 cents_________
75.0 to 79.9 cents_________
fift Otr» 84.0 cents
85.0 to 89.9 cents.......... ......
00-ft 94.9 cents __ _
95.0 to 99.9 cents_________
100-0 to 104.9 cents _ . _
105.0 t.n 109.9 cents
110.0 to 114.9 cents..............
115.0 to 119.9 cents..............
190 0 t.n 124.9 cents
125.0 to 129.9 cents.............
130.0 to 134.9 cents.............
135.0 to 139.9 cents.... ___ _
140.0 to 144.9 cents
_ _
145.0 to 149.9 cents.............
150.0 to 159.9 cents _ .. ...
160.0 to 169.9 cents ___
170.0 to 179.9 cents
180.0 to 189.9 cents.............
190.0 to 199.9 cents_______
200.0 cents and over...........
130
300
SIS
212
200
176
185
160
148
159
174
149
118
104
105
100
80
59
45
45
34
16
46
25
17
12
13
20
4
1
3
1
4
10
7
4
5
4
4
2
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
47
1
2
9
7
16
25
9
9
6
8
4
2
9
4
4
2
6
10
5
5
12
27
10
9
8
9
6
4
6
8
4
5
10
11
132
140
41
85
88
61
28
31
20
15
11
11
11
4
1
2
1
1
14
65
119
57
43
32
22
17
18
17
15
11
8
6
2
1
3
3
1
1
18
26
27
21
16
11
13
2
5
5
2
7
17
36
26
16
5
8
7
7
2
6
2
3
1
3
18
65
42
20
6
14
10
11
6
3
2
3
1
7
22
49
38
24
16
18
12
9
3
4
9
5
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
204
221
1
1
1
411
455
146
150
1
3
4
9
19
12
39
35
30
35
20
28
17
26
7
10
8
15
10 • 4
5
8
5
8
3
6
3
5
2
3
7
5
11
5
1
3
3
2
2
3
6
203
224
Average hourly earnings
(in cents)....................... . 88.2 94.5 67.3 72.6 135.4 140.9 61.4 66.5 60.8 66.4 61.2 67.8 109.6 112.9
2 Exclusive of premium overtime pay, but including piece-rate or other incentive earnings.
4
T able 2.— Distribution o f Philadelphia Knitted-Outerwear Workers Employed 6 Weeks
or M ore in 1944 and 1945, by Straight-Time Hourly Earnings— Continued
Number of workers in selected occupations
Merrow
Classified hourly earnings Menders operators
Pressers
Special
Singer
machine
operators operators
Winders
Miscella
neous
1944 1946 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1946
40.0 t.o 44.fi ruvnt.s
46.0 t o 4ft.fi rPints _ _ . _ _
60.0 to 64.9 cents.................
66.0 to 69.9 cents.................
60.0 to 64.9 cents.................
66.0 to 69.9 cents.................
70.0 to 74.9 cents.................
76.0 to 79.9 cents.................
80.0 to 84.9 cents.................
86.0 to 89.9 cents.................
90.0 to 94.9 cents.................
96.0 to 99.9 cents.................
100.0 to 104.9 cents..............
106.0 to 109.9 cents.............
110.0 to 114.fi np.nts
5
2
11
19
13
8
4
3
51
2
1
1
11/5.0 t o 11fi.fi oon ta
120.0 to 124.9 cents.............
126.0 to 129.9 cents.............
180.0 to 134.9 cents_______
186.0 to 139.9 cents..............
140.0 to 144.9 cents.............
146.0 to 149.9 cents_______
160.0 to 159.9 cents.............
160.0 to 169.9 cents..............
170.0 to 179.9 cents..............
180.0 to 189.9 cents..............
190.0 to 199.9 cents.............
200.0 cents and over...........
2
T otal........................
76
1
1
3
6
10
14
14
8
8
4
1
2
1
2
1
3
1
1
83
2
2
12
9
25
28
25
34
32
40
44
37
45
26
34
20
17
17
10
7
11
3
6
3
3
3
464
2
9
9
23
16
26
29
30
32
26
35
33
34
26
36
25
20
17
16
10
8
12
4
8
4
1
2
1
2
1
2
5
2
3
3
13
2
2
7
2
7
9
2
5
2
5
5
1
3
11
6
3
2
3
3
493
112
2
4
9
10
17
11
15
10
16
22
11
30
20
15
13
27
18
17
11
9
5
10
11
12
5
3
1
4
3
6
22
18
25
15
20
15
20
20
22
27
11
14
13
17
8
7
7
6
4
3
8
2
2
6
22
20
19
24
24
17
23
18
26
27
20
16
21
17
15
14
12
7
10
5
10
8
2
2
10
3
6
11
12
14
9
26
14
17
19
15
18
19
23
17
23
21
11
10
12
9
3
8
5
1
2
2
2
2
2
6
132
331
337
317
390
1
12
3
1
2
1
8
3
3
2
2
5
6
9
10
9
7
8
6
1
2
8
6
5
2
2
6
9
20
19
8
10
12
4
2
1
2
3
1
1
2
1
7
5
16
13
15
8
8
10
4
9
2
4
1
42
106
100
60
57
36
36
37
25
27
14
14
7
6
4
2
5
4
1
2
1
1
6
43
170
83
60
44
51
48
37
24
18
14
19
6
12
7
12
4
4
5
1
2
6
3
1
1
102
105
586
680
Average hourly earnings
(in cents)......................... 71.8 75.4 97.6 105.8 126.2 139.5 103.0 110.9 95.2 100.2 81.6 87.6 65.3 76.6
Table 3 shows straight-time hourly and gross weekly earnings of
workers with different periods of employment. Since individual
productivity in this largely piece-rate industry determines earnings
to a large extent, it is interestmg to note that workers with the largest
employment experience had higher hourly rates and higher weekly
earnings than those with shorter employments.
T able 3.— Straight-Time H ourly and Gross W eekly Earnings o f Philadelphia Knitted
Outerwear Workers with Specified Lengjths o f Employment, 1944 ana 1945
Number of workers
Length of employment
1944
1 week or niore_ _
6 waaVs or more
46 Wfteka or more
_
. .
_ ____________
, T
___
3,770
3,150
1,669
Average hourly
earnings
1945
4,404
3,467
1,597
Average gross
weekly earnings
1944
1945
1944
$0,878
.882
.933
$0,939
.945
.992
$35.17
35.43
38.50
1945
$36.71
37.09
40.44
Annual Earning?
Annual earnings of workers employed for at least 46 weeks averaged
$1,937 in 1944 and $2,031 in 1945 (see table 4). Although individuals’
earnings varied between $600 and $4,200 in 1944, 85 percent of the
workers were in the $1,000 to $3,200 class and 50 percent earned
5
between $1,000 and $2,000. In 1945 the distribution of workers
changed only slightly: 83 percent fell between $1,000 and $3,200 and
nearly 10 percent earned over $3,200. Pay-roll deductions for various
purposes meant that net take-home pay was substantially less than
gross earnings.
T
able
4 . — Distribution
o f Philadelphia Knitted-Outerwear Workers Employed 46 Weeks
or M ore in 1944 and 1945, by Annual Earnings
Number of workers in selected occupations
Classified annual earnings
workers
Brushers
Exam*
iners and Finishers
trimmers
Cutters
Folders
and
packers
Knitters
1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945
lam to $7»o
$800 tn$Q0Q
$1,000 to $1,199....................
$1,200 to $1,399....................
$1,400 to $1,599....................
$1,600 to $1,799....................
$1,800 to $1,999....................
$2,000 to $2,199....................
$2,200 to $2,399....................
$2,400 to $2,599....................
$2,600 to $2,799....................
$2,800 to $2,999....................
$3,000 to $8,199....................
$3,200 to $3,899....................
$3,400 to $3,599....................
$3,600 to $3,799....................
$3,800 to $3,999....................
$4,fln0tn $4,1M
$4,200 and river
15
92
168
179
184
183
152
111
97
91
69
66
34
25
25
27
11
22
18
15
99
144
172
186
182
150
138
89
76
78
69
45
41
27
22
14
12
38
Total......................... 1,569 1,597
1
1
2
1
1
1
7
4
8
1
1
3
1
2
1
1
2
4
6
19
1
11
1
9
9
1
11
. 11
1
9
6
1
2
5
8
22
11
8
8
9
6
5
14
19
97
101
3
30
44
83
18
21
5
2
1
2
26
46
25
20
21
14
1
1
2
13
17
13
10
7
1
8
32
11
10
10
1
1
1
3
16
17
17
10
3
1
1
2
1
2
1
8
14
16
12
4
5
4
3
1
2
1
157
156
63
74
74
1
71
1
8
16
10
21
21
24
13
8
9
7
4
8
8
1
3
3
6
10
8
15
28
12
14
13
7
6
4
5
13
158
148
Average annual earnings
(in dollars)...................... 1,937 2,031 1,753 1»7$8 3,263 3,421 1,263 1,319 1,239 1,320 1,317 1,497 2,921 2,986
Number of workers in selected occupations—Continued
Classified annual earnings
Merrow
Menders operators
Pressers
Special
Singer
machine
operators operators
Winders
Miscel
laneous
1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945 1944 1945
$600 to $799.........................
$800 to $999___
_______
$1,000 to $1 , 1 9 9 ___ ____
$1,200 to $1,399...................
$1,400 to $1,599....................
$1,600 to $1,799....................
$1,800 to |1,990....................
$2,000 t o :$2,199................ .
$2,200 toi$2,399....................
$2,400 t o !$2,599 ______
$2,600 t o :$2,799....................
$2,800 to!$2,999....................
$3,000 t o !$3,199....................
$3,200 to l$3,399....................
$3,400 t o !$3,599 ______
$3,600 t o !$3,799 . ______
$3,800 t o !$3,999....................
$4,000 to I{4,199....................
$4,200 an<1 over.__________
Total........ ......... .....
2
5
15
13
9
5
1
1
1
1
2
3
16
8
14
4
2
1
1
3
12
18
34
55
60
30
25
28
8
9
2
2
2
53
51
288
2
6
21
39
49
39
46
26
21
17
12
4
4
1
1
1
288
2
3
1
5
4
4
5
6
3
6
4
2
3
2
5
3
3
61
1
1
3
6
2
4
4
4
5
7
5
9
1
1
1
12
11
27
14
25
20
30
11
6
7
3
1
2
3
1
11
11
13
20
17
22
19
12
12
8
2
3
6
1
6
1
1
8
59
175
161
5
11
17
22
28
18
23
9
12
6
8
1
2
1
1
1
3
9
15
29
33
33
21
15
11
6
5
6
3
1
1
2
4
7
12
12
8
3
3
2
4
10
9
5
9
3
1
1
1
5
19
45
45
35
26
18
10
7
4
3
1
1
1
1
3
18
36
43
36
25
17
21
9
5
5
2
2
1
1
4
2
2
164
193
52
44
220
232
Average annual earnings
(in dollars)...................... 1,518 1,561 1,937 1,996 2,763 3,062 2,014 2,123 1,887 1,932 1,642 1,778 1,466 1,662
6
Cutters, the highest paid group in the industry, averaged $3,263
in 1944 and $3,421 in 1945. Nearly 17 percent of the cutters earned
over $3,800 in 1944 in contrast to 24 percent earning over that amount
in 1945. Knitters and pressers ranked next, with average earnings
of $2,921 and $2,753, respectively, in 1944 and *$2,986 and $3,062
in 1945.
Finishers showed the lowest annual earnings ($1,239) in 1944, but
they were replaced in that position by examiners and trimmers, who
in 1945 earned $1,319 and $1,320, respectively. In both years, over
84 percent of the finishers earned between $800 and $1,600.
a. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1947
@FedFRASER