View original document

The full text on this page is automatically extracted from the file linked above and may contain errors and inconsistencies.

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF LABOR
Frances Perkins, Secretary

BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS
Isador Lubin, Commissioner

Earnings and Hours in the
Leather and Leather Belting
and Packing Industries, 1939
+
Prepared by the
Division of Wage and Hour Statistics
of the Bureau of Labor Statistics
J. PERLMAN, Chief

B ulletin 7\lo. 679

U N IT E D ST A T E S
G O V E R N M E N T P R IN T IN G OFFICE
W A S H IN G T O N : 1941

For sale by the Superintendent o f Documents, Washington, D . C.




-

-

Price 15 cents

U N IT E D STATES D E P A R T M E N T OF LABO R
F ra n ces P e r k in s , S ecreta ry

+
B U R E A U OF L A B O R S T A T IS T IC S
Isa d o r L u b i n , C o m m issio n er
A . F . H in r ic h s . A s sis ta n t C om m issio n er

Donald
Davenport,
Chief,
Employment and Occupa­
tional Outlook Branch
Henry J. Fitzgerald, Chief,
B u sin e ss M a n a g e m e n t
Branch
Hugh S. Hanna, Chief, Edi­
torial and Research
c h ie f s

OF

Aryness Joy, Chief, Prices and
Cost of Living Branch
N.

Arnold
Tolies,
Chief,
Working Conditions and In­
dustrial Relations Branch

Sidney W . Wilcox, Chief Sta­
tistician

d iv is io n s

Herman B. Byer, Construction
and Public Employment

Florence Peterson, Industrial
Relations

J. M . Cutts, Wholesale Prices

Charles F. Sharkey,
Law Information

Swen Kjaer, Industrial Acci­
dents
John J. Mahaney,
Tabulation

Machine

Robert J. Myers, Wage and
Hour Statistics

Boris Stern, Labor Informa­
tion Bulletin
Stella Stewart, Retail Prices
Lewis E. Talbert,
ment Statistics

Faith M . Willian ls, Cost of Living

II




Labor

Employ­

CONTENTS
Page

Preface______________________________________________
Introduction and summary___________________________________________________
P art I.— Earnings and hours in the leather industry_______________________
Description of the industry and scope of survey_______________________
Definition of the industry___________________________________________
Characteristics of the industry_____________________________________
Fluctuations in employment and pay rolls_________________________
Description of the sample___________________________________________
Average hourly earnings__________________________________________________
Methods of wage payments_________________________________________
Hourly earnings of all workers______________________________________
Variations by sex and skill__________________________________________
Geographical differences_____________________________________________
Hourly earnings in relation to Fair Labor Standards A ct________
Differences between union and nonunion plants__________________
Variations by size of community________________
Product differences_______________________
Occupational differences_____________________________________________
Variations by race of workers_______________________________________
Extra rates for overtime work______________________________________
Comparisons with 1932 survey_____________________________________
Weekly hours and earnings______________________________________________
Full-time weekly hours______________________________________________
Actual weekly hours_________________________________________________
Weekly earnings_____________________________________________________
P art II.— Earnings and hours in the leather belting and packing industry.
Description of the industry and scope of survey_______________________
Definition of the industry___________________________________________
Characteristics of the industry_____________________________________
Scope of the survey__________________________________________________
Average hourly earnings__________________________________________________
Methods of wage payments_________________________________________
Hourly earnings of all workers______________________________________
Variations by sex and skill__________________________________________
Geographical differences_____________________________________________
Hourly earnings in relation to Fair Labor Standards A ct________
Variations by size of community and unionization________________
Product differences__________________________________________________
Occupational differences_____________________________________________
Weekly hours and earnings_______________________________________________
Full-time weekly hours______________________________________________
Actual weekly hours_________________________________________________
Weekly earnings___________________________________________________




m

ix
1
5
7
7
7
10
12
15
15
15
16
18
22
23
25
26
30
34
35
36
36
36
37
37
39
41
41
41
42
42
42
43
44
45
49
50
51
53
54
54
54
55

IV

CONTENTS

L is t o f T a b le s
Page

T able 1.— Number of establishments, number of wage earners, and wages
paid in the leather industry, 1921 -3 7_________________________
2. — Classification of establishments in the leather industry, by size,
1937_____________________________________________________________
3. — Geographical distribution of establishments and wage earners
in the leather industry, by State, 1937________________________
4. — Value of products in the leather industry, 1937______________
5. — Index numbers of employment and pay rolls in the leather
industry, 1 9 2 3 -3 9 _______________________________________________
6. — Earnings and hours in the leather industry, 19 32 -3 9________
7. — Coverage of survey in the leather industry, by States, Septem­
ber 1939________________________________________________________
8. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by average hourly
earnings, sex, and skill, September 1939_______________________
9. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by average hourly
earnings, sex, and district, September 1939___________________
10. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by average hourly
earnings, region, sex, and skill, September 1939______________
11. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by average hourly
earnings, and by groups of plants, September 1939__________
12. — Average hourly earnings of leather workers in the northern
region, by size of community, unionization, sex, and skill,
September 1939_________________________________________________
13. — Average hourly earnings of leather workers, by product, sex, and
skill, September 1939___________________________________________
14. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by average hourly
earnings and by product, September 1939____________________
15. — Average hourly earnings, weekly hours, and weekly earnings of
leather workers, by sex, skill, and occupation, September 1939_
16. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by average hourly
earnings, 1932 and 1939________________________________________
17. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by actual weekly
hours, sex, and skill, September 1939__________________________
18. — Percentage distribution of leather workers, by average weekly
earnings, sex, and skill, September 1939_______________________
19. — Number of establishments, number of wage earners, and wages
paid in the leather belting and packing industry, 19 2 1 -3 7 ___
20. — Coverage of survey in the leather belting and packing industry,
by States, September1939______________________________________
21. — Percentage distribution of leather belting and packing workers,
by average hourly earnings, sex, and skill, September 1939__
22. — Distribution of leather belting and packing plants, by average
hourly earnings and by district, September 1939_____________
23. — Percentage distribution of leather belting and packing workers,
by average hourly earnings, region, sex, and skill, September
1939______________________________________________________________
24. — Percentage distribution of leather belting and packing workers,
by average hourly earnings, sex, and district, September 1939_
25. — Percentage distribution of leather belting and packing workers,
by average hourly earnings and by groups of plants, Sep­
tember 1939_____________________________________________________




8
9
9
10
11
12
14
16
20
21
23

24
27
30
32
36
37
38
42
43
45
46

47
48

50

CONTENTS

V

Page
26.
27.

28.
29.

— Percentage distribution of leather belting and packing workers,
by average hourly earnings and by product, September 1939_
— Average hourly earnings, weekly hours, and weekly earnings of
leather belting and packing workers, by sex, skill, and occu­
pation, September 1939________________________________________
— Percentage distribution of leather belting and packing workers,
by actual weekly hours,sex,and skill, September 1939________
— Percentage distribution of leather belting and packing workers,
by average weekly earnings, sex, and skill, September
1939________________________________________________________________




52

55
56

56




Letter o f Transmittal

U

n it e d

S tates D
B

epartm ent of

ureau

of

L

abor

L

abor,

S t a t is t ic s ,

W a sh in g to n , D . C ., M a y 2 4 , 1 9 4 0 .

The S e c r e t a r y o f L a b o r :
I have the honor to transmit herewith a report on wages and hours
of labor in the leather and leather belting and packing industries in
1939. The report was prepared under the direction of Jacob Perlman,
Chief, Division of Wage and Hour Statistics, in response to a request
of the Research and Statistics Branch, Wage and Hour Division.
I

sador

L

u b in

,

C o m m is s io n e r .

Hon. F r a n c e s P




e r k in s ,

S ecreta ry o j L a b o r.
VII




PREFACE
The present survey of wages and hours in leather tanning and
finishing is the third of a series made by the Bureau of Labor Statistics
in this industry. The first survey was made in 1919 and the second
in 1932. The former surveys did not, however, include leather belting
and packing.
The Bureau wishes to acknowledge its debt to the various firms that
voluntarily cooperated in furnishing the information upon which this
bulletin is based. The Bureau also expresses its grateful appreciation
to the Tanners’ Council of America, American Leather Belting Asso­
ciation, and New England Shoe and Leather Association, as well as
the various unions, for their valuable cooperation.
In preparing this bulletin, the Bureau of Labor Statistics has strictly
adhered to its long-established policy of keeping confidential all infor­
mation submitted to it by individual establishments included in the
survey.
The survey was made under the supervision of Jacob Perlman, Chief
of the Division of Wage and Hour Statistics of the Bureau of Labor
Statistics. P. L. Jones was in charge of the field work and O. R.
Witmer supervised the office work. The text was written by H. O.
Rogers. Acknowledgment for valuable suggestions is also extended
to A. B. Long, of the Indust^ Committee Branch, and W. P. Fallon,
of the Research and Statistics Branch of the Wage and Hour Division.
I sador L

u b in

,

Commissioner o j Labor Statistics .
M a y 24, 1940.
IX

240482°— 41------ 2







Bulletin 7s[o. 679 o f the
United States Bureau o f Labor Statistics

Earnings and H ours in the Leather and Leather
Belting and Packing Industry, 1939
Introduction and Summary
Two industries are covered by this report on wages and hours. The
first and more important is the manufacture (tanning, currying, and
finishing) of leather from hides and skins. The second includes the
manufacture of leather belting, leather packing, and textile leathers.1
In the leather tanning and finishing industry, hourly earnings aver­
aged 62.3 cents in September 1939. Earnings in the leather belting
and packing industry were somewhat lower, averaging 56.5 cents an
hour. Both industries, however, showed a wide range in individual
earnings.
An outstanding feature of the leather tanning and finishing industry
is the relatively small proportion of workers in the low-earnings classes.
Taking the industry as a whole, only 1.2 percent were paid less than 30
cents an hour, 2.7 percent earned less than 35 cents, and 5.8 percent
received less than 40 cents. There was a fairly substantial scattering
of employees in the higher-earnings classes, 13.2 percent averaging
82.5 cents an hour or better. This is particularly noteworthy in view
of the predominance of the semiskilled and unskilled workers in the
industry.
The differences in hourly earnings in the leather industry can be
explained in part by the sharply contrasting wage levels of the differ­
ent groups of employees. For male workers, the averages were 77.3
cents for the skilled, 65.6 cents for the semiskilled, and 53.8 cents for
the unskilled. The female workers averaged 44.5 cents, or 9.3 cents
less than the average for the unskilled males. Female employees,
however, constitute only a twelfth of the industry’s total labor force.
In the leather tanning and finishing industry, as in many other
branches of manufacturing, there is a pronounced geographical differ­
ence in hourly earnings. Against an average of 65.3 cents for all male
employees of the northern plants surveyed, those in the South averaged
46.1 cents. In the Northern States, 1.9 percent of the male wage
1 For additional information concerning wages and hours in the manufacture of leather products, see
Earnings and Hours in Shoe and Allied Industries, During First Quarter of 1939, U. S. Departm ent of
Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics, Bull. N o. 670, W ashington, 1939.




1

2

E A R N IN G S

AND

H OURS, LEATH ER

IN D U S T R IE S

earners were paid below 40 cents an hour, but 15.6 percent received
82.5 cents and over. In the South 27.9 percent received less than 40
cents, and only 0.7 percent earned as much as 82.5 cents.
Hourly earnings in the leather industry are also influenced in an
important fashion by the kind of products manufactured. Among the
more important industry divisions, hourly earnings were highest
(82.7 cents) in plants specializing in the production of glove leather,
which represented 4.3 percent of all leather value. Relatively high
hourly earnings (72.3 cents) were also reported for the plants specializ­
ing in calf upper leather, with a representation of 9.9 percent of pro­
duction value. The lowest hourly earnings (56.7 cents) were shown
for workers employed by plants making primarily sole and belting
leather. Total value of their products, however, was the highest in
the industry.
In contrast with the leather tanning and finishing industry, a rela­
tively large proportion of leather belting and packing employees were
found in the lower-wage classes. Roughly one out of every six wage
earners (17.3 percent) earned under 40 cents an hour, and 5.6 percent
received less than 35 cents. Hardly any of the employees earned less
than 25 cents, but there was a small concentration at exactly 25
cents.
As in the leather industry, sharply contrasting wage levels are shown
for each of the principal groups of employees in the belting and packing
industry. Compared with an average of 68.2 cents an hour for skilled
males, semiskilled males averaged 54.4 cents, and unskilled males had
an average of 42.2 cents. The few female employees in the industry,
most of whom were semiskilled workers, averaged 40.5 cents.
In the belting and packing industry, there is a sharp contrast in
average hourly earnings between the northern and southern estab­
lishments. As there were no female workers employed in the southern
establishments, any comparison between regions should be confined to
male employees. For all males, the average hourly earnings were 62.1
cents in the Northern States and 43.9 cents in the South.
Weekly hours in the tanning and finishing industry averaged 39.1
in September 1939, as against 43.4 hours in the leather belting and
packing industry.
Average weekly earnings amounted to $24.42 in the leather tanning
and finishing industry and $24.51 in the leather belting and packing
industry.
The information presented in this report was collected by actual
visits of the Bureau’s field representatives to every plant included in
the survey. Using pay-roll and other records, the field representa­
tives obtained for every worker (including working supervisors and
plant clerks)2 in each establishment the occupation, sex, color, total
2
The survey did not cover higher supervisory officials and office workers in central or other offices that
are separate and distinct from the plants.




IN T R O D U C T IO N

AND

SUM M ARY

3

hours actually worked, and total earnings for a pay-roll period
between September 10 and October 1, 1939.3 In addition, certain
general plant information concerning full-time hours, overtime rates,
methods of wage payment, and employer-employee dealings was
secured from the officials of the cooperating firms.
Descriptions of the various occupations were obtained from a
number of establishments, especially where there was some doubt as
to the duties involved. This information, coupled with that ob­
tained from previous surveys of the leather industry, furnished the
basis for the detailed occupational groupings used in the report.
In addition, the occupations were classified according to skill.
This classification was developed on the basis of the prevailing
opinion of plant supervisors, or foremen, as well as other information
available in the Bureau. Any classification of occupations by skill
tends to be somewhat arbitrary. Despite this limitation, it is be­
lieved that the skill designations used in this report are essentially
accurate.
It should be noted that the data collected cover a period prior to
October 24, 1939, the effective date of the provisions of the Fair
Labor Standards Act establishing an hourly minimum of 30 cents,
as well as a maximum workweek of 42 hours. As only a small pro­
portion of the workers in the leather industry fell short of the 30-cent
minimum at the time of the survey, the wage structure shown here
is not likely to be much different from the one now in existence.
During the period covered by the survey, the Fair Labor Standards
Act provided for a workweek of 44 hours for plants engaged in inter­
state commerce, and employees working in excess of this standard
received time and a half for overtime. Unless otherwise indicated,
the hourly earnings shown in this report are based on regular rates.
Consequently, they do not reflect the compensation from the extra
rates paid for overtime work.4
3 In establishm ents where the pay-roll period exceeded 1 week, there was also obtained the number of
hours worked during 1 continuous week w ithin the pay-roll period. This enabled the Bureau to present
weekly hours, as w ell as w eekly earnings for all workers.
* In m ost surveys made b y the Bureau of Labor Statistics, the compensation resulting from the extra
rates for overtime work is included in com puting average hourly earnings. The present survey, how­
ever, was made at the request of the Economic Section of the Wage and Hour Division, in order to provide
reliable information on wages for use of the industry committee that has been established under the Fair
Labor Standards Act of 1938. For this reason, it was considered desirable to exclude the earnings at the
extra rates.
Although made primarily for the Wage and Hour Division, the Bureau has strictly adhered here to its
long established policy of keeping confidential all data obtained from individual establishments.







Part I
Earnings and Hours in the Leather Industry




5




Description of the Industry and Scope o f Survey
D efin ition o f the Industry

The manufacture of leather from hides and skins includes two
principal processes, namely tanning and finishing.5 Most establish­
ments are integrated, thus performing all processes. A few plants do
tanning only, but a substantial number engage in finishing only. The
Bureau’s survey included integrated establishments, as well as those
confining their operations to either tanning or finishing.
In defining the industry, the Census of Manufacturers makes a
distinction between regular and contract factories, the former covering
plants working primarily on hides and skins owned by them, and the
latter including establishments that manufacture leather on contract.
Some of the regular plants, however, also do some contract work, and
some of the contract establishments also manufacture small amounts
of leather from hides and skins owned by them. The present survey
includes both regular and contract plants.
The survey excluded all integrated plants having fewer than 20
employees, or any separate tanning or finishing establishments with
fewer than 10 workers. This reduced the total number of plants in
the industry to about 300, which employed somewhat less than 50,000
wage earners.
Characteristics o f the Industry

As an employer of labor, the leather industry is fairly important.
In the aggregate, the 402 establishments6 in the industry, according to
the Census of Manufacturers, provided work for 50,687 wage earners
in 1937. The total wage bill of these plants amounted to $61,288,375,
which represented 54.0 percent of the value added by manufacture.
For many years, an outstanding feature of the leather industry was
the remarkable decrease that had taken place in the number of estab­
lishments. This was accompanied by an almost steady rise in the
number of wage earners. According to the Census of Manufactures,
the number of plants declined from somewhat less than 7,000 in 1849 to
680 in 1919,7 but the number of wage earners increased from approxi6

Includes currying, a secondary process of finishing leather after tanning.

6Includes only plants w ith an annual production valued at $5,000 and over.

7 Prior to 1905, all kinds of manufacturing and mechanical establishments were included by the Census
of Manufactures. Since 1905, however, only manufacturing establishments conducted under w hat is
known as the factory system have been included. This change affects the comparability of the data as
regards the number of plants for the various industries.
240482°—41 3
7




8

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

mately 26,000 to 72,000. This was the result of a gradual expansion
in the size of establishment.
T

a b l e

1 .— Num ber o f establishments, number o f wage earners, and wages paid in
the leather ind ustry, 1 9 2 1 -8 7 1

[Based on data from Census of Manufacturers]
Year
1921___________________________________________
1923___________________________________________
1925_____________________________ _____________
1927___________________________________________
1929___________________ _______________________
1931___________________________________________
1933___________________________________________
1935___________________________________________
1937___________________________________________
1 Includes

Num ber of
Num ber of es­ wage earners
tablishments (average for
the year)
608
597
531
494
471
418
374
384
402

Average num ­ Wages paid
ber of wage (thousands
earners per
establishment of dollars)

48,955
59, 703
52,263
52,924
49,932
42,047
44,191
50,877
50,687

81
98
107
106

100
101
118
133
126

$57, 741
73,784
65,834
67,887
63,414
49, 542
43, 076
55, 683
61.288

only plants having an annual production valued at $5,000 and over.

Even between 1921 and 1937, the number of establishments in the
leather industry decreased by about one-third.8 On the other hand,
the number of wage earners, which was subject to considerable fluctua­
tion during this period, never approached the high level reached in
1919. It will be noted, however, that the size of plant in terms of
number of wage earners has increased generally during these years.
Although the size of the producing unit in the leather industry has
been growing steadily, the typical plant is still relatively small. In
1937, for example, the average per establishment was 126 wage earners.
Of the 402 plants in that year, only 20 reported between 501 and 1,000
workers, and only a single establishment showed over 1,000 employees.
In contrast, about three-fifths of the plants employed 100 workers or
less, and virtually one-fourth showed 20 employees or less.
Leather manufacturing is widely scattered geographically. (See
table 3.) The New England States, the early center of the industry,
still remain an important producing region. Most of the leather
plants in the Pacific States are located in the vicinity of San Francisco.
In the Southern States, by contrast, establishments making leather
are scattered throughout the Appalachian belt, but their combined
employment constitutes only a minor portion of the industry’s total.
8 Likewise, the figures since 1921 arc not strictly comparable w ith those for 1919 and prior years. Before
1921, the Census of Manufactures covered all establishm ents w ith a value of product amounting to $500 and
over. Beginning w ith that year, however, the m inim um requirement was extended to a product value of
$5,000 and over. T his change probably accounts for m ost of the decrease in number of plants between 1919
and 1921. The establishm ents excluded due to the shift in definition were very small, so that the reduction
in number of wage earners between the 2 years was due primarily to other causes.




D E S C R IP T IO N
T

able

OF

THE

9

IN D U S T R Y

2 . — Classification o f establishments in the leather ind ustry, by siz et 1937

[Based on data from Census of Manufactures!
Num ber of N um ber of
establish­ wage earners
ments

Size of establishm ent

402
3
31
63
81
70
87
46

Total_____________________
N o wage earners__________
1 to 5 wage earners________
6to 20 wage earners_______
21 to 50 wage earners______
51 to 100 wage earners____
101 to 250 wage earners___
251 to 500 wage earners___
501 to 1,000 wage earners,-.
1,001 to 2,500 wage earners_
2,501 wage earners or more.

50,687
99
742
2, 792
5,256
14.182
15,161
12,455
0)

20
1

1 As this figure could not be shown without disclosing data for an individual establishment, it has been
included w ith that for the previous size group.
T

able

3 .— Geographical distribution o f establishments and wage earners in the
leather ind ustry, by State, 1937

[Based on data from Census of Manufactures]

State

Wage
N u m ­ earners
ber of (aver­
estab­ age
lish­
the
m ents for
year)

L e a th e r : T a n n e d , c u r r ie d , a n d
f in is h e d — r e g u la r f a c to r ie s

U nited S t a t e s ___ ____ _______
California
- _ _ ______ D elaw are... . ________________
Illin o is.__________ ___________
Indiana________ ___________ .
K entucky . ________ __________
M aryland_______
______
M assachusetts
. _ _______
MinhiVan
Missouri
_ _____________
N ew Jersey
________
N ew Y ork___
__ . . . .
N orth Carolina__________________

331 48,132
13
667
10 2, 692
4, 376
26
368
5
442
3
3
520
66 9, 325
13
2 569
4
’ 182
2, 930
33
4, 710
37
1,133
9

State
Ohio_____________________________
Oregon______ _____ _____ _____
Pennsylvania_____ . . . ..............
Virginia,

W est V irginia.. _ . . . . _______
W isconsin . . . _ . _ . . . ._
Other States 1______________ . . .

N um ­
ber of
estab­
lish­
m ents
14
4
44
7
6
17
17

W age
earners
(aver­
age
for the
year)
1,825
25

8, 541

770
937
4, 307
1,813

L e a th e r : T a n n e d , c u r r ie d , a n d
fin is h e d — c o n tra c t fa c to r ie s

U nited States ___
_____
________
M assach u setts___
N ew Jersey .
_________
N ew Y ork___ _ . _. ________
Other States 2____________________

71
30

8
20

13

2, 555
880
335
838
502

1Connecticut, 2 establishm ents; Georgia, 2; M aine, 1; M innesota, 3; N ew Hampshire, 3; Rhode Island, 1;
Tennessee, 2; Texas, 2; W ashington, 1.
2Colorado, 1 establishm ent; Delaware, 1; Illinois, 3; M aine, 2; N ew Hampshire, 1; Pennsylvania, 3;
W isconsin, 2.
At first glance, the leather industry appears reasonably homogeneous
in terms of product. Actually, however, it is an industry of extreme
diversity. The factors that contribute to the complexity of the
industry are the variations in the kinds of animal skins or hides em­
ployed for conversion into leather and the specific uses for which the
finished leather is intended. These factors, in turn, determine the
tanning and finishing methods employed in the manufacturing process.
Some idea of the variety and relative importance of the various
products manufactured in the leather industry may be obtained




10

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

I N D U S T R IE S

from table 4, which has been condensed from a more detailed table
presented by the Census of Manufactures for 1937. It will be seen
that, in terms of value, the most important products are sole and
belting (30.3 percent), side upper leather (20.2 percent), kid upper
leather (10.8 percent), and calf upper leather (9.9 percent).
T able

4 . — Value o f 'products in the leather ind ustry, 1937

[Based on data from Census of Manufacturers]
Kind of leather

Value of
product

Per­
cent

i $362, 094, 589 100.0
All k in d s.-.
______ Sole and belting leather______ 110, 212, 195 30.3
Side upper leather, cattle 2___ 73, 044, 815 20. 2
K id upper leather___________
39,132, 725 10.8
35, 705, 736
9.9
Calf upper leather___________
Sheepskin and goatskin—
Glove and garment leather. 15, 639, 069
4.3
Lining leather_____________
13,965, 396
3.9
Splits, other than upper and
2.8
upholstery leather. _____ 10, 230,174

Kind of leather
Upholstery leather (automo­
bile, furniture, and car­
riage) —
Patent upper leather________
Fancy leather_______________
Bag, case, and strap leather. _
Harness and collar leather___
H orsehide.. . . . ____________
W elting leather_________
Miscellaneous leather 3______

Value of
product
$7,138, 787
9, 326, 345
6, 625, 961
5, 315, 613
6, 000, 303
5, 750, 321
2, 297, 520
21, 709, 629

Per­
cent

2.0
2.6
1.8
1.5
1.7

1.6
.6
6.0

1 Includes the value of leather only, whether made as a primary product in this industry or as a secondary
product in other industries. In order to avoid duplication, the value of rough leather has been excluded.
2 Includes also wax and finished splits.
3 This includes all other leather which is not classified w ith the above items.

Fluctuations in Employment and Pay Rolls

As stated previously, the figures of the Census of Manufactures
indicate important fluctuations in the total number of wage earners in
the leather industry between 1921 and 1937. Such fluctuations are
confirmed by the index numbers of employment and pay rolls since
1923, which are published monthly by the Bureau’s Division of Em­
ployment Statistics. (See table 5.)
In connection with these figures, it* is interesting to note how the
changes in business conditions affected employment and pay rolls in
the leather industry since 1937. The highest point in employment
during recent years was reached in April 1937, when the index stood at
98.8 (using 1923-25 as a base of 100). After that month, employment
declined almost without interruption until June 1938, when the index
stood at 73.3. This was followed by a general rise that brought the
index up to about 88 percent of the 1923-25 average in the fall of 1939.
The highest point reached by the index numbers of pay rolls during
recent years (99.5) was also recorded in April 1937, after which there
was a general decline that continued until the following April, when
the index stood at 65.7. Subsequently, a general increase occurred,
which raised the index to 88 percent of the 1923-25 average in the fall
of 1939.
Although frequently overshadowed by cyclical changes, employ­
ment and pay rolls are affected by seasonal fluctuations in the leather
industry. Generally, the slack period occurs during the summer,
and the busy months are during the fall and winter.




D E S C R IP T IO N

OF

THE

IN D U S T R Y

11

Based on the monthly reports of employment and pay rolls, the
Bureau computes average weekly earnings. Likewise, using the
figures on man-hours, which are reported by a substantial number of
establishments, there are computed average hourly earnings and
average hours worked per week. These figures are presented by
months since 1932 in table 6.
Average hourly earnings in the leather industry showed a strong
tendency to remain constant for relatively long periods of time. The
lowest figure during the depression of the early thirties was reached in
April 1933, when the average amounted to 38.4 cents. Following the
adoption of the President’s Reemployment Agreement and the in­
dustry code during the N. R. A., average hourly earnings rose to about
56 cents at the close of 1934. Hourly earnings remained at approxi­
mately this level until the fall of 1936. During the latter part of 1936
and early part of 1937 the average increased again, attaining a level of
approximately 63-64 cents. Since that time, earnings have remained
relatively stable.
T able

5 , — In d ex num bers o f em ploym ent and pa y rolls in the leather ind ustry,
1923-39 1

[Indexes are based on 3-year average 1923-25=100 and are adjusted to 1937 Census of Manufactures]
M onth

1923 1924 1925 1926 1927 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 1936 1937 1938 1939
Em ploym ent

January_____
February____
March ____
April________
M ay ______
June______ __
Ju ly_________
A ugust______
Septem ber__
October_____
Novem ber___
Decem ber___
Average___

114.6 103.1
116. 2 103.5
115. 1 102.4
113.3 98. 1
108.9 93. 2
108.4 90. 2
107.7 87.4
106.3 88. 2
105. 2 92.9
104.9 94. 0
105.7 95. 2
103.0 96.8
109. 1 95.4

97.8
99. 0
98.7
96.0
93.3
93.0
91.4
93.1
95. 2
95.8
96.3
95.9
95.5

97.4 99.4
98.4 101.3
98.6 99. 5
96.4 95.4
94.5 94.0
92.0 94. 1
93. 6 95.1
96.4 95. 5
98.3 96.4
98.1 96. 0
98.4 96.3
98. 6 96.4
96.7 96. 6

98.0
98.8
98.0
94.7
94.7
93.4
94. 1
94.4
94.3
93. 0
89.9
88.3
94.3

89.8
90. 2
89. 0
88.3
88. 2
89.0
92.0
93. 2
94.3
95. 2
93. 2
91.3
91. 1

89. 5 77.6 70.9 70.3 90.7 91.8 95.0 95.8 76. 1 87. 3
89. 0 77.7 72.3 71.8 92.8 93.3 93.6 96. 2 77.1 88.3

88. 2 78.6 71.3 69.9 94. 1 93. 1 93.1 97.6 75.9 87. 3
87.6 77. 9 70.8 65.8 92. 1 92.0 92.5 98.8 74. 0 85.8
86.1 77.6 67.7 73.2 90.9 90.6 91.8 98.0 73.4 83.3
84.4
83.9
84. 1
83.7
82.9
79.9
76. 2
84. 6

77.7
79.5
80.5
77.9
75.0
72.]
70. 5
76.9

80.5
85.7
91. 6
91.9
90.8
87. 2
90. 2
68.8 80.7

90. 2 90. 2 91. 3 96.9 73. 3 84.8
90. 1 90.8 92. 2 93.8 75.1 85.5
86.8 91.7 94.0 93.0 78.5 85.5
85. 1 92. 4 95.9 91.7 79.8 86.5
86. 4 94. 2 95.8 88.882. 5 88.4
87. 3 97.4 96.9 82. 3 85. 3 87.9
90.7 97. 5 97.0 78.1 86.687.0
86.5
89.8 92.9 94. 1 92.6

50. 2
53.3
49.3
44. 1
55.6
65.7
70.9
74.6
74.1
74.6
69.9
74.2
63.0

73.0 77.0 85. 9 91.8 67.9 85.8
77. 2 80. 5 83. 1 93.6 70.9 87. 3
78.2 81.6 80.6 95.9 69. 1 85. 2
76. 1 78.8 81.1 99.5 65.7 81.4
75.9 77.5 82.2 98. 2 66.078.7
73.6 78.3 81.0 96.8 67.3 82. 2
72.7 78. 3 80.9 92.6 70. 1 82.0
69.6 80.9 84. 5 92.4 75.7 83. 1
66.9 81.8 85.8 87.6 76.7 84.2
69.9 85.6 88.9 84.3 79.4 88.2
71.4 87. 3 90.4 73.2 82. 3 87.2
75.4 89. 5 94.1 69. 4 85. 1 86.5
73.3 81.4 84.9 89.6 73.0 84.5

63. 8
63.4
64.8
67.3
70. 2
72.1
71. 0

Payrolls
January_____
February____
M arch,..
April________
M a y ________
June. ______
July_________
August______
Septem ber__
October_____
Novem ber___
Decem ber___
Average___
1 Compiled

105.1 105. 6 98.8 98. 5 103.0 100.6 88.0 89. 1
108.9 107.0 102.8101. 6 105. 1 102.4 92. 5 89.3
110. 6 104.8 102.4 102. 2 102. 2 102.3 88.7 86. 5
109. 5 99.3 94.3 99.4 97.7 95. 5 89.4 85.7
111. 1 92.9 94.9 97.3 96.4 96. 1 90. 2 85. 2
109.8 91.1 92.3 94.7 97.3 93.8 91.9 83.8
106. 5 83.6 88.3 94.7 96. 2 94.2 93. 1 82.3
104. 5 87.4 93.4 99. 6 99.1 94.3 97.1 83.8
105. 6 90.3 92.6 100.6 97.7 94. 2 96.9 82.0
108. 5 94.3 98.1 103.1 98. 1 94.4 99.9 80. 1
107.4 94. 1 98.6 100.4 98.1 88. 8 93.8 75.6
106.7 98.8 99. 1 102.4 101.0 89.7 92.0 73.0
107.9 95.8 96.3 99.5 99.3 95. 5 92.8 83.0

by Bureau’s Division of Em ploym ent Statistics.




71.3
73.9
76.0
75.7
76.4
75.8
76.9
78.4
73.4
68.4
63.0
60.9
72.5

58.0
61. 5
60. 1
56. 8
51.1
47.7
46.9
49. 1
52.4
56.3
54.9
53.6
54.0

12

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

T a b l e 6. — E arnings and hours 1 in the leather industry, 1 9 3 2 -3 9 2

1932

M onth

1933

1934

1936

1935

1937

1938

1939

Average hourly earnings
January_____ __________________ $0.443 $0. 393 $0. 523 $0. 561 $0. 557 $0. 587 $0. 638
.444
.393
.525
.561
.555
.590
.634
February__________________ _______
.399
.522
.564
.558
.591
M a rc h _____________ ________________ .449
.638
.521
.451
.565
.562
.384
.614
.636
A pril________ _____________________
.396
.524
.563
.558
.624
.633
--- - --- .449
M a y______ ___ __
.407
.524
.561
.556
.626
.630
June________________________________ .440
.419
.529
.561
.417
.558
.631
Ju ly________________________________
.628
.452
.538
.560
.563
A ugust_________ . . _ _____
- .421
.628
.629
.544
.564
.563
.486
September__________ _______ _______ .417
.630
.629
.552
.560
.507
.559
.633
October________
_______ _______ .419
.630
.505
.559
.560
.565
N ovem ber__________________________ .410
.628
.629
.398
.515
.558
.561
D ecem ber________________ _______
.576
.638
.631
.429
.562
.446
.537
.561
Average______________________
.617
.632

$0. 639
.634
.630
.629
.629
.630
.629
.633
.634
.633
.639
.643
.634

Average hours worked per week
January____________________________

February_________________________ _
M arch______________ _____ . ___
A pril_______________________________
M ay . . . . _______________________
June________________________________
Ju ly________________________________
A ugust_________________ _________
Septem ber. _ ______________________
October ____________________________
N ovem ber__________________________
D ecem ber________________ ________
A verage_______ _____ ________

41.2
44.4
43. 7
42. 2
39.0
40.0
41.3
41.5
41.9
43.2
42.7
43.1
42.0

41.8
43.3
42.3
40. 7
44.9
46.5
46.3
41. 7
37.9
37.8
37. 5
38. 2
41.1

37.1
37.9
37.4
37.2
37.7
37.6
36.2
35.9
35. 1
35.9
36.6
37.3
36.8

37.6
37.6
38.2
37. 5
37.4
37.6
37.8
38.4
38.3
39.3
38.9
39.6
38.2

39.3
38.8
37.7
38.2
38.9
38.6
38.3
39.5
39.2
40.6
40.1
41.3
39.2

40.2
40. 5
40.9
40.6
39.7
39.3
38.6
38.9
37.7
37.5
35.2
35.2
38.8

35.4
36.6
36. 1
35.1
35.8
36.8
37.4
38.7
38. 7
38. 5
38.6
39.2
37.3

39.0
39.4
38.9
37.8
37. 9
38.7
38.0
38.6
38.6
39.4
38.7
38.8
38.7

$21. 96 $23. 55 $22.43
21.51 23.95 23.11
21.05 24. 11 22.91
21.38 24. 76 22. 32
21.69 24. 64 22. 57
21.63 24.54 23.11
21.48 24.32 23.44
22. 01 24.64 24. 29
21.94 23. 70 24.24
22. 75 23.60 24. 23
22. 79 22.13 24. 30
23. 72 22. 23 24. 77
21.99 23. 90 23. 52

$24. 76
24. 88
24.47
23. 83
23. 78
24. 30
23.96
24. 29
24.32
24.91
24. 76
24.88
24.43

Average w eekly earnings
January_______________ ______ _____

February_____ _______________ _____
M arch______ ____________________ _
April _______________________________
M a y____ _ ________ . . . ______
June_______________________ _______
Ju ly________________________________
A ugust_____________________________
Septem ber.. ._ . . . . . . . .
October____ _____ _________
N ovem ber_____ .. ______ __________
D ecem ber. ____________ ___________
Average_____ _________________

$19. 96 $17. 51 $19. 73 $21. 26
20.47 18. 24 20. 43 21.20
20. 34 17 52 20. 33 21.43
19.48 16. 78 20. 21 21.04
18. 43 18. 54 20.41 20. 96
18. 37 19. 92 20. 16 21.26
17. 79 20. 07 19. 84 21.10
18. 69 19. 73 19. 84 21.59
18. 67 19. 50 19. 57 21. 59
19.32 19. 86 20.18 22. 00
18.44 19. 50 20. 45 21.78
18.31 20.08 20. 88 22.21
19.03 19.06 20.17 21.47

1 A verage w e e k ly earnings are co m p u ted from figures fu rn ish ed b y a ll rep orting e sta b lish m e n ts. A verage
h ours an d average h o u rly earnings are co m p u ted from d a ta su p p lied b y a sm aller n u m b er o f esta b lish m en ts
as all rep orting firm s d o n o t fu rn ish m an -h ou rs. T h e figures are n o t str ic tly com parab le from m o n th to
m o n th b ecau se of ch an ges in th e size a n d co m p o sitio n of th e rep ortin g sa m p le.
2C o m p iled b y th e B u r e a u ’s D iv isio n of E m p lo y m e n t S ta tistics.

Description o f the Sample

In the present survey, no attempt was made to cover all of the
leather plants. Instead, the survey was restricted to a carefully
selected sample of 152 establishments, from which wages and hours
data were obtained for 25,617 wage earners.
The method of sampling used by the Bureau in this survey differs
from that employed in other surveys. In the outlying States, where




D E S C R IP T IO N

OF

THE

IN D U S T R Y

13

a relatively small proportion of the industry is located, the survey
covered virtually all establishments. This included California and a
number of Southern States; namely, Virginia, Tennessee, North Caro­
lina, Georgia, and Texas. Similarly, the Bureau covered all single­
plant companies with 500 wage earners and over. For the small and
medium-sized single-establishment concerns, however, as well as the
plants of multi-unit companies in all regions, which are located
in other parts of the country, the coverage was on a sample basis.
The “ cell” method of sampling was used, in accordance with which
a number of cells were formed, each constituting a more or less
homogeneous entity with respect to size of plant, location, size of
community, product, unionization, etc. Depending upon the number
of establishments in the cell, one or more plants were selected to
represent each cell, which were later weighted to bring the figure up to
the total size of the cell. Upon the completion of the weighting, the
coverage was checked to make sure that it afforded an accurate crosssection of the industry, from the standpoint of size of plant, corporate
affiliation, product, geographical distribution, size of community, and
unionization.
An indication of the extent to which the geographical composition
of the sample corresponds to that of the total industry is shown by
table 7, which compares the distribution of the industry by States,
as shown by the Census of Manufactures, and that in the Bureau’s
survey. In making this comparison, it is important to note that the
present survey was made in September 1939, but the most recent availa­
ble data for the Census of Manufactures are for 1937. It should also be
kept in mind that the wage survey included only establishments with
20 or more workers, whereas the Census of Manufactures covered all
plants with an annual production valued at $5,000 and over. Finally,
it will be noted that, in several of the States shown, data on the wage
earners employed by contract factories are not available from the
information of the Census of Manufactures, while such establishments
are included in the data for each State in the Bureau’s survey. In
spite of these differences, an examination of the figures indicates that
the proportion of wage earners covered by the survey in most States
corresponds very closely with that reported by the Census of Manu­
factures. Massachusetts, for example, accounted for 20.1 percent
of the wage earners in 1937, as compared with 21.0 percent in the
survey. In other States, likewise, the correspondence between the
two series is striking.




14
T

E A R N IN G S

a b l e

7.—Coverage

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

o f survey in the leather ind ustry, hy States, Septem ber 1989

C en su s of m a n u fa ctu res, 1937
S ta te

U n ite d S ta te s_______
___________________________________
C a lifo rn ia ____________________________________________________
D e la w a r e__________
_______ ______ _____
- _____
I llin o is -.- ________ ___________________________ __________
M a ssa c h u se tts-. ______ - - - - - - - - - . . . . - - - - - M ic h ig a n _____________________________________________________
N e w J e r se y ---------------------- ---------------------------------------------------N e w Y o r k ._ _____ __ _ _
__ _ _
_ ________
N o r th C a ro lin a . __ _ ____ __ _ __ _ _
.. ..
O h io ..
- . . - - - - - - - - -_- _ ------- -_- _____ .
P e n n sy lv a n ia - - - - _ _ ______ __ _______ ____
W isc o n s in .. _ .
__ _______
_______ _____ _____
____________ - . . . -------------O th er p la n ts______________

N u m b e r of
w orkers
50, 687
667
2 2,692
3 4,376
10, 205
2, 569
3,265
5, 548
1,133
1,825
48,541
s 4, 307

6 5,559

P er c e n t of
w ork ers

P er c e n t of
w o rk ers in
B u rea u
su rvey1

100. 0

100.0

1.3

1 .3
5 .1
10.7
21.0
2 .5

5 .3

8.6
20. 1

5. 1
6 .4
10.9
2.2
3 .6
16.9
8 .5
11.1

6.1

10.5

1.8
2.2

1 6.4
12 .9
7 9 .5

1Excludes integrated plants w ith less than 20 employees, as well as finishing establishm ents w ith less
than 10 workers.
2 Excludes 1 contract plant.
3 Excludes 3 contract plants.
< Excludes 3 contract plants.
fi Excludes 2 contract plants.
6Includes 2 regular factories in Connecticut, 2 in Georgia, 5 in Indiana, 3 in K entucky, 1 in M aine, 3 in
M aryland, 3 in M innesota, 4 in M issouri, 3 in N ew Hampshire, 4 in Oregon, 1 in Rhode Island, 2 in Tennes­
see, 2 in Texas, 7 in Virginia, 1 in W ashington, and 6 in W est Virginia; includes also 1 contract factory in
Colorado, 1 in Delaware, 3 in Illinois, 2 in M aine, 1 in N ew Hampshire, 3 in Pennsylvania, and 2 in W is­
consin.
7Includes 3 plants in Connecticut. 1 in Georgia, 2 in Indiana, 2 in M aryland, 1 in M innesota, 2 in Missouri,
2 in N ew Hampshire, 3 in Tennessee, 1 in Texas, 2 in Virginia, and 2 in W est Virginia.
The estimated (weighted) number of workers as computed from the
Bureau’s survey was approximately 47,900.9 Applying to the figure
of 50,687 wage earners, as reported by the Census of Manufactures for
1937, the net change in employment disclosed by the Bureau’s index
numbers, the estimated number of workers in the industry at the time
of the survey in September 1939 was about 47,300, which is only
slightly less than the weighted figure shown above. In September
1939 the Bureau obtained information by mail questionnaire on
employment and pay rolls from 169 establishments in the leather
industry, with 34,300 employees. These workers averaged 63.4 cents
for hourly earnings, 38.6 for weekly hours, and $24.32 for weekly
earnings,10 which may be compared with 62.3 cents, 39.1 hours, and
$24.42, respectively, on the basis of the present field survey.11 The
close correspondence between the respective figures of two independent
surveys is evidence of the accuracy of both samples.
o This figure excludes integrated establishm ents w ith fewer than 20 employees, as w ell as finishing plants
w ith fewer than 10 workers, neither of which were included in the survey. These establishments covered
approximately 800 employees.
The figures on average hourly and weekly earnings include the extra earnings due to overtime work.
11The figures on average w eekly hours and earnings in the survey are exclusive of 1 establishment, which
did not report total hours worked.







PLATE 1.-FLESHING-MACHINE OPERATOR.




P l a t e 2.—S h a v i n g - M a c h i n e O p e r a t o r s .

AVERAGE

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

15

Average H ourly Earnings
Methods o f Wage Payments

A majority of the wage earners in the leather industry are paid on a
straight time-rate basis. Although the proportion varied from plant
to plant, some time workers were found in each of the establishments
included in the survey. Most of these employees were paid on an
hourly basis, but there were a few occupations, such as working fore­
men and maintenance workers, that were customarily on a weekly
or monthly basis. Including the salaried employees, 51.8 percent
of the wage earners in the industry were paid on a time-rate basis.
Although time workers predominated in the industry, some em­
ployees were paid straight piece rates in approximately three-fourths
of the establishments, the total number of workers affected being
38.5 percent of the labor force. In general, employees paid at piece
rates were most frequent in the finishing departments. The occupa­
tions showing a considerable number of piece workers were machine
stakers, togglers, tackers, buffers, machine setters-out, glazingmachine operators, hand finishers or seasoners, and shaving-machine
operators. Moreover, group piece rates were frequently applied to
some of the occupations. Togglers and tackers, for example, in many
plants, customarily worked in teams and split their total earnings.
Production-bonus systems of wage payment were reported by a
few of the larger establishments, affecting approximately one-tenth
of the total wage earners in the industry. In some of these plants,
moreover, only certain classes of employees were affected.
H ourly Earnings o f A ll Workers

For all wage earners in the leather industry, earnings in September
1939 averaged 62.3 cents an hour, but varied considerably among
establishments. Indeed, for the plants covered by the survey, the
averages ranged from under 30 cents to almost $1. Despite the wide
differences, a substantial number of establishments, employing more
than one-half of the workers, showed averages that fell within the
15-cent range between 55 and 70 cents. On the other hand, the
establishments averaging under 55 cents employed less than one-fifth,
and those with averages of 70 cents and over accounted for more than
one-fourth of the total labor force.12
Considering the hourly earnings of individual workers, which are
shown in table 8, the largest proportion (13.9 percent) in any 5-cent
interval was found between 57.5 and 62.5 cents. Approximately
one-half (48.7 percent) received between 47.5 and 67.5 cents, and
over four-fifths (81.0 percent) were paid between 40.0 and 82.5 cents.
A substantial proportion, namely 13.2 percent, earned 82.5 cents and
12 These proportions are based on the weighted number of workers.
240482°—41------4




16

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

over. On the other hand, relatively few (5.8 percent) received less
than 40 cents. This is particularly noteworthy, in view of the pre­
dominance of semiskilled and unskilled workers in the industry.
T a b l e 8 .—

Percentage distribution o f leather w orkers, by average hourly earnings,
sex, and skill, Septem ber 1939
Males
All
work­
ers

Average hourly earnings

Under 25.0 cents
Exactly 25.0 cents_
25.1 and under 27.5
27.5 and under 30.0
30.0 and under 32.5

cents____
_ cents.._ _ . . . ____ __
cents.. _________ ______

0.6
.3
.3
.7

32.5
35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5

and
and
and
and
and

under 35.0
under 37.5
under 40.0
under 42.5
under 47.5

cents______________ _ .
cents. _______________
cents. . . .
_ . .
cents. .
cents___________________

.8
1.9
1.2
5.5
7.4

.6
.6
.9
4.0
6.5

47.5
52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5

and
and
and
and
and

under
under
under
under
under

52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5
72.5

cents___ _____ _____ __
cents. ________________
cents.
cents. . . . .
_________
c e n t s .. ___
_________

11.5
12.5
13.9
10.8
8.2

72.5 and
77.5 and
82.5 and
87.5 and
92.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

77.5 cen ts.._
_________ __
82.5 c e n t s .______
______
87.5 cents._ .
. .. _ _
92.5 cents_____ _ _________
100.0 cents.
______
_

100.0
110.0
125.0
150.0

_ _

_ _

Total

and under 110.0 cents____ __ _ _
and under 125.0 cents . .
_ _
and under 150.0 cents .
_. ___
cents and over. _
_ _

0)

Skilled

Semi­
skilled

U n­
skilled

Fe­
males

.2

0.1
.2
.2
.4

0.1
1.6
.3
.4
1.1

1.7
1.0
1.8
2.1

.2
.2
.3
.7
1.8

.5
.4
.6
2.7
5.2

.9
1.3
1.8
7.9
11.2

2.4
15.2
4.5
22.8
17.4

11.4
12.7
14.7
11.7
8.7

3.8
5.9
8.9
11.7
11.4

8.9
11.3
15. 5
13.7
10.7

19.7
18.5
15.7
8.1
3.8

12.1
9.8
4.7
1.4
2.4

6.1
5.1
3.2
2.7
3. 1

6.7
5.5
3.5
3.0
3. 3

9.1
8.6
6.2
8.0
10.1

8.1
6.8
3.9
2.8
3.1

2.9
1.8
1.3
.8
.5

2.3
1.0
.7
.2

2.5
1.1
.8
.3

7.4
2.6
2.0
.8

2.4
1.3
.9
.3

0)

0.5
.2
.2
.6

0.1
0)
0)

.2
.1

.3
.2
C)

.1
.1

0)
0)

_ _____________

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

Number of workers (weighted)____________

47, 904

43, 895

6, 439

24, 280

13,176

4, 009

Average hourly earnings..

$0. 623

$0.638

$0. 773

$0. 656

$0. 538

$0. 445

Total_______________

_.

.

...

1 Less than Ho of 1 percent.

Variations by Sex and Skill

Leather manufacturing is largely a man’s industry. In contrast
with many other industries that have been mechanized extensively,
women constitute only a minor fraction of the wage earners in this
industry. Taking the industry as a whole, only one-twelfth of the
total labor force were women. The proportion of females, however,
varied conspicuously in the different divisions of the industry. Vir­
tually no women were employed in the plants manufacturing sole and
belting and glove leather, but 18.3 percent of the workers found in the
kid-leather plants and 17.0 percent of those employed in calf-upper
plants were females. Even in the branches where females were rela­
tively numerous, their employment was largely restricted to the
finishing departments. No females were found in the southern
establishments.




AVERAGE

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

17

Converting raw hides and skins into leather is one of the oldest
processes known to man. Tho principal objective is to preserve the
material and at the same time to give it certain desired physical
properties. For some purposes, such as gloves, the requisite qualities
are softness, flexibility, and porosity. Firmness, thickness, and dur­
ability, on the other hand, are the properties needed in high-quality
sole and belting leather. To bring out the desired qualities formerly
required craftsmen with an intimate knowledge of leather and the
treatment of leather. At the present, however, the processes in­
volved are largely chemically controlled, and modern machinery has
displaced all except a relatively small remnant of the highly skilled
craftsmen.
In spite of the progressive decline in the demand for highly skilled
craftsmen in the leather industry, a few machine operations still require
a high degree of manual dexterity. This is due largely to the fact
that very few of the machines used in making leather are com­
pletely automatic. As shown by this survey, skilled males constituted
over one-eighth of the total workers in the industry. Most of the
females were semiskilled employees. The semiskilled males consti­
tuted approximately one-half, and the unskilled males accounted for
over one-fourth of the total labor force.
The dispersion of hourly earnings in tho leather industry may be
explained in part by the sharply contrasting wage levels among the
different groups of employees. For male workers, the averages were
77.3 cents for skilled, 65.6 cents for semiskilled, and 53.8 cents for
unskilled. Hence, the difference between skilled and semiskilled was
about the same as that between semiskilled and unskilled employees.
The female workers averaged 44.5 cents, or 9.3 cents less than the
average of the unskilled males.
An outstanding feature of the distribution of individual hourly
earnings is the relatively small proportion of the more important
groups of employees in the low-wage classes. Among semiskilled
males, numerically the largest single group, only 2.4 percent of the
total were found below the 40-cent level. Moreover, hourly earnings
of this amount or less are shown for only 1.0 percent of the skilled
and no more than 7.5 percent of the unskilled males. On the other
hand, 28.7 percent of the females were paid under 40 cents, but it
must be remembered that this is the smallest group of workers in the
industry.
Among each of the more important groups of employees, a fairly
generous scattering is found in the upper wage classes. Thus, earnings
of 82.5 cents an hour and over are shown for more than one-third
(37.1 percent) of the skilled and over one-seventh (14.7 percent) of
the semiskilled males. Even among the unskilled males, the hourly
earnings of a small minority (2.9 percent) amounted to 82.5 cents and




18

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

I N D U S T R IE S

orer. By contrast, hardly any females received that figure and above.
Hourly earnings in excess of $1 were confined largely to the skilled
and semiskilled males, the respective proportions amounting to 12.8
and 4.9 percent.
Geographical Differences
Under the N. R. A., the code for the leather industry provided for
two regions with respect to wages. One was the southern area, includ­
ing Maryland, West Virginia, Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, North
Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Florida,
Arkansas, Louisiana, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona.
For these States, the minimum rate set was 32.5 cents an hour. For
the remainder of the United States, including all of the Northern and
Western States, the minimum was 35 cents for females and 40 cents
for males.
Generally speaking, there is a difference in the wage levels of these
two areas. Of the Southern States mentioned in the code, the survey
covered Maryland, West Virginia, Virginia, Tennessee, North Caro­
lina, Georgia, and Texas, as the other States either had no establish­
ments or had none of any importance in the leather industry. These
seven States, which employed 6.9 percent of the total wage earners in
the industry, had a considerably lower wage level on the whole than
that found in the Northern States, despite the fact that no females were
employed in the plants covered by the survey in the Southern States.
The wage level in the Southern States, however, was by no means
uniform. In fact, these States may be divided into two districts, each
of which had a different wage level. One district (including Tennes­
see, North Carolina, Georgia, and Texas) may, for the sake of con­
venience, be termed the lower Southern States. These States gen­
erally showed the lowest hourly earnings, as evidenced by an examina­
tion of the averages of the various establishments. Thus, all but one
of the plants covered here by the survey averaged less than 45 cents.
Moreover, all of the establishments in the industry with an average un­
der 35 cents were in this district. The other district (including West
Virginia, Maryland, and Virginia) may be designated as the border
States. A somewhat higher wage level generally prevailed in this
district. With one exception, the averages of the plants included by
the survey in these States fell within a relatively narrow range,
between 45 and 50 cents.
The wage level of these border States overlaps with that of the
Northern States. Thus, there are individual establishments in a
number of Northern States with average hourly earnings of less than 45
cents. These are exceptional, however, as a large proportion of the
northern plants have average hourly earnings of more than 50 cents,




AVERAGE

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

19

Although the general wage level in the northern region is substantially
higher than that in either of the two southern wage districts, hourly
earnings in the North show less concentration. Broadly speaking,
hourly earnings in this area varied considerably even within a single
State. This was especially true of the more important States. In
Massachusetts, for example, the averages of the plants covered in the
survey ranged from 37 to 83 cents, although most of the establishments
averaged between 60 and 80 cents. In Pennsylvania, the plant
averages covered a spread from 39 to 71 cents, with the majority of
establishments concentrated between 50 and 70 cents. The range of
plant averages in New York State was from 52 to 99 cents, but most
of the establishments averaged between 65 and 85 cents. A similar
dispersion was found in other States having a substantial number of
plants, such as Delaware, Illinois, New Jersey, and Wisconsin.
With hourly earnings in the northern region differing considerably
in most instances within a single State, it is obviously difficult to
conceive of homogeneous wage districts that are composed of more
than one State. The three districts that are shown in this report
represent more or less arbitrary groupings of States that correspond to
areas that the trade frequently regards as competing producing areas.
These groupings include plants surveyed in the New England, Middle
Atlantic, and Middle Western States, respectively. The New England
States covered in the survey included Massachusetts, New Hampshire,
and Connecticut. Delaware was added to the Middle Atlantic States
which, under the Bureau of the Census classification, include New
York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. The Middle Western States,
as used in the present survey include not only the East North Central
States (Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, and Wisconsin), as defined
by the Bureau of the Census, but also Minnesota, Missouri, and Cali­
fornia. Each of these groups of States is important, accounting re­
spectively for 23.2, 38.0, and 31.9 percent of the total workers in the
industry.
The differences in the wage structure of these three districts are not
sufficient for them to be regarded as distinctive wage areas. The most
concentrated distribution of hourly earnings is found in the Middle
Western States (including California). In this District only 2.9 per­
cent of the workers received less than 40 cents, and 2.6 percent were
paid more than 92.5 cents. On the other hand, more than two-thirds
(67.7 percent) earned 47.5 to 72.5 cents. The average for all workers
was 62.0 cents, while most establishments averaged less than 65 cents.
(See table 9.)




20

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

T a b l e 9 .— Percentage distribution o f leather w orkers, by average hourly earnings, sex,
and district, Septem ber 1939
All workers

Average hourly earnings

and
and
and
and
and

Females1

M id ­
M id ­
M id ­
dle
dle
dle
W
est­
W
est­
W
est­
M id ­
M id ­
M id ­
New
New
ern
New
ern
ern
South­
South­
dle
dle
dle
Eng­
Eng­
Eng­
in­
in­
in­
A t­
ern
ern
A t­
A t­
land
land
land
clud­
clud­
clud­
lantic
lantic
lantic
ing
ing
ing
Cali­
Cali­
Cali­
fornia
fornia
fornia

. __ _
cents
cents______
cents______

0.1
.4
.3
.3
.5

(2)
0.1
(2)
.1
.6

(2)
0.4
.2
.4
.8

5.0
2.4
1.8
4.1

0.1
.4
.2
.2
.4

(2)
0.1
(2)
.1
.4

under 35.0 cents..
under 37.5 cents______
under 40.0 cents______
under 42.5 cents______
under 47.5 cents. ____

.2
1.9
.9
7.8
6.6

.5
2.7
1.0
5. 1
6.6

.2
.8
.6
3.6
6.7

6.5
1.6
6.5
9.6
18.2

.1
.8
.5
4. 6
4.8

.2
.7
.5
3.5
6.0

Under 25.0 cents._
Exactly 25.0 cents
25.1 and under 27.5
27.5 and under 30.0
30.0 and under 32.5
32.5
35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5

Males

0.1

.1

5.0
2.4
1.8
4.1

0.2
.8
1.0
1.1

0.5
2.3

4. 7
2.2
3.6
2.9

.1
.3
.4
2.7
5. 7

6.5
1.6
6.5
9.6
18.2

1.1
10.6
3.5
32.5
20. 7

5.0
29.4
7.4
25.1
14.6

1.2
6.4
2.8
12.2
16.9

10.5
12.2
3.5
.3
1.8

6.6
1.5
3.8
.9
2.0

18.4
14.9
6.6
2.8
3.2

(2)

47.5 and
52.5 and
57.5 and
62.5 and
67.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

52.5 cents______
57.5 cents______
62.5 cents______
67.5 cents______
72.5 cents______

9.9
10.4
12.2
10. 1
7.0

12.4
12.5
12.0
10.2
7.1

11.0
13.5
18.1
13.7
11.4

12.5
13.1
9.8
3.9
3.6

9.9
10.2
13.2
11.4
7.7

12.9
13.5
12.6
10.9
7.5

10.2
13.3
19.1
14.7
12.3

12. 5
13. 1
9.8
3.9
3.6

72.5 and
77.5 and
82.5 and
87.5 and
92.5 and

under 77.5 cents
under 82.5 cents______
under 87.5 cents
under 92.5 cents______
under 100.0 cents..

6.2
5.6
3.8
4.2
4.6

6.9
5.8
3. 5
2.8
4.1

6.4
4.9
3.0
2.2
1.3

.5
.2
.2
.2
.1

7.0
6.4
4.2
4.8
5.2

7.4
6.2
3.8
2.9
4.4

7.0
5.4
3.3
2.4
1.5

.5
.2
.2
.2
.1

100.0 and under 110.0 cents____
110.0 and under 125.0 cents
125.0 and under 150.0 cents
150.0 cents and over
. __ __

4.4
1.8
.7
.1

2.7
1.4
1.4
.5

.8
.2
.2
.1

.1
.1

5.0
2.0
.8
.1

2.8
1.5
1.5
.6

.9
.2
.2
.1

.1
.1

100.0 100.0

100.0

Total____________________
Number of workers (weighted)

11,098 18, 227 15, 277

100.0

100.0 100.0 100.0

3,302 9,823 16,939 13,831

100.0

.8
.3
.1

.2
.4
.5

100.0 100.0 100.0

3, 302 1,275

1,288 1,446

Average hourly earnings______ $0,645 $0. 642 $0. 620 $0. 461 $0. 670 $0. 658 $0. 635 $0. 461 $0. 447 $0. 417 $0. 467
1 N o females were employed in plants covered in survey in Southern States.
2 Less than Ho of 1 percent.

The difference between the average hourly earnings for the Middle
Western States and that of 64.2 cents in the Middle Atlantic States
(including Delaware) arises primarily from the fact that 10.1 percent
of the workers in the Middle Atlantic area received more than 92.5
cents. These high earnings, found for the most part in New York
State, raised the general average, in spite of the fact that a larger
proportion of the workers earned less than 40 cents in this area than
in the Middle Western States. There is a considerable contrast in
the wage level of New York and New Jersey and of Pennsylvania
and Delaware. The averages were 71.6 cents in New York and 68.4
cents in New Jersey, compared with 61.2 cents in Pennsylvania and
53.7 cents in Delaware.
The fundamental differences in wage structure in the Northern
States occur not between broad subregions within this area, but in
the contrasting wage structures of small districts and of individual
plants. On a regional basis, the only comparison that is warranted




AVERAGE

HOURLY

21

E A R R IN G S

is that shown in table 10 between the Northern States as one group
and the Southern States as another. The average hourly earnings of
all males in the entire Northern States amounted to 65.3 cents,
against 46.1 cents for the entire Southern region.13 In the Northern
States, there were 1.9 percent of the total paid below 40 cents, and
15.6 percent received 82.5 cents and over. In the Southern States,
by contrast, the respective figures were 27.9 and 0.7 percent.
T a b l e 10.— Percentage distribution o f leather workers, by average hourly earnings,
region, sex, and skilly Septem ber 1939
S o u th e r n S ta te s 1

N o r t h e r n S ta te s

A v e r a g e h o u r ly ea rn in g s
(in c e n ts)

Males

Males
All
work­
ers

Total Skilled

Semi­
U n­
skilled skilled

Under 25.0________________ (2) (2)
Exactly 25.0______________
0.3
0.2
0.1
(2)
25.1 and under 27.5______
.1
.1
(2)
.2
27.5 and under 30.0_______
.1
(2)
30.0 and under 32.5_______
.5
.2
.3
.3
32.5 and under 35.0_______
.1
(2)
1.9
35.0 and under 37.5_______
.6
.3
(2)
37.5 and under 40.0_______
.8
.5
.2
(2)
5.2
40.0 and under 42.5_______
0.5
3.5
2.5
42.5 and under 47.5_______
6.6
5.6
1.2
4.1
47.5 and under 52.5_______ 11.3 11.3
3.5
8.6
52.5 and under 57.5_______ 12.4 12.5
11.1
5.7
57.5 and under 62.5_______ 14.2 14.9
8.9
15.8
62.5 and under 67.5_______ 11.4 12.3 11.9 14.3
67.5 and under 72.5_______
8.5
9.2
11.2
11.3
72.5 and under 77.5_______
6. 6
7. 2
9. 3
8. 6
5.4
77.5 and under 82.5_______
7.2
6.0
9.0
3.4
82.5 and under 87.5_______
6.4
4. 2
3. 7
2.9
87.5 and under 92.5_______
3.2
8.3
3.0
3. 3
92.5 and under 100.0______
3.6
10.6
3.3
100.0and under 110.0_____ 2. 5 2. 7 7.8
2.6
110.0 and under 125.0_____
1.1
2. 7
1. 2
1. 4
125.0 and under 150.0_____
.8
2.1
.9
1.0
150.0 cents and over______
.3
.3
.8
.3
Total_____________ 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
N u m b er of w ork ers
(weighted)_____________ 44, 602 40, 593 6,124 22, 639
Average hourly earnings. _- $0. 635 $0. 653 $0. 784 $0. 669

1T h e r e w e r e n o fe m a le w o r k e r s in
2L e s s t h a n H o o f 1 p e r c e n t.

All
Fe­
work­
males
ers

Semi­
U n­
Total Skilled skilled skilled

0.1
.4
.2
.2
.8

1.7
1.0
1.8
2.1

5.0
2.4
1.8
4.1

5.0
2.4
1.8
4.1

0.6
.6
1.0
4.1

0.2
3.2
1.8
4.0

11.9
1.9
2.0
4.2

.4
1.3
1.1
7.1
10.6

2.4
15.2
4.5
22.8
17.4

6.5
1.6
6.5
9.6
18.2

6.5
1.6
6.5
9.6
18.2

3.2
4.1
4.8
4.4
13.0

7.6
1.6
5.5
6.2
20.0

5.9
1.0
8.0
15.0
17.1

20.3
19.1
16.6
9.0
4.2

12.1
9.8
4.7
1.4
2.4

12.5
13.1
9.8
3.9
3.6

12.5
13.1
9.8
3.9
3.6

10.2
10.5
8.3
8.6
15. 0

12.8
14.2
12.5
6.0
4.1

12.7
12.6
7.0
.4
.3

3. 3
2.0
1. 5
.9
.6

(2).1

.3
.2

.5
.2
.2
.2
.1

.5
.2
.2
.2
.1

5.4
.6
2.2
1.6
.6

.2
.1

.1

.1
.1

.1
.1

.6
.6

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

11,830 4, 009 3, 302 3, 302

315

1,641

(2)
(2)

.2
.1

$0. 552 $0. 445 $0. 461 $0. 461 $0. 555 $0. 478

100.0
1,346
$0. 417

t h e p la n t s c o v e r e d in s u r v e y in th e S o u th e r n S ta te s .

As mentioned previously, the N. R. A. code minima were 35 cents
for females and 40 cents for males in the Northern States. It is
interesting to note that at the time of the survey (September 1939)
there were 9.0 percent of the females earning under 35 cents and 1.9
percent of the males receiving less than 40 cents in this region. The
southern code minimum was 32.5 cents for both sexes, although no
females were employed in the plants surveyed. In this region 13.3
13

T h e r e w e r e n o fe m a le w o r k e r s in th e s o u th e r n p la n t s .

a n d S o u t h e r n S ta t e s m u s t b e c o n fin e d t o m a le w o r k e r s.




H e n c e , t h e c o m p a r is o n b e t w e e n t h e N o r t h e r n

22

E A R R IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

I N D U S T R IE S

percent of the males earned less than 32.5 cents. In connection with
the above minima, however, it should be pointed out that the code
permitted certain tolerances for learners and aged or handicapped
workers, neither class to exceed 5 percent of all workers on the pay­
roll in a given plant.
H ou rly Earnings in Relation to Fair Labor Standards A ct

From the preceding tables, it is evident that in September 1939
hardly any of the wage earners in the leather industry were paid
below the minimum of 25 cents an hour, which was in effect at that
time in accordance with the provisions of the Fair Labor Standards
Act of 1938. Moreover, an insignificant proportion of all workers,
namely 0.6 percent, received exactly 25 cents. In fact, the relative
size of this group was important only for the few plants in the Southern
States, where 5.0 percent of the total earned exactly that figure.
The 30-cent hourly minimum, under the provisions of the Fair
Labor Standards Act, became effective on October 24, 1939, or shortly
after the survey was made. Even this minimum evidently resulted
in no more than minor readjustments in the industry’s wage structure.
At the time of the survey, only 1.2 percent of all wage earners em­
ployed in the industry earned less than 30 cents an hour. In this
respect, too, the only region affected relatively to any extent is that
including the Southern States, where 9.2 percent of the total workers
received below 30 cents.
In accordance with the Fair Labor Standards Act, it is possible
for the Administrator, upon the recommendation of an industry com­
mittee, to set an hourly minimum in excess of 30 cents but not to
exceed 40 cents. Taking the highest minimum that might be set
under the act, namely 40 cents an hour, there were 5.8 percent of all
workers in the industry earning below that figure. The proportion
was 3.6 percent for males (1.0 percent for skilled, 2.4 percent for semi­
skilled, and 7.5 percent for unskilled), compared with 28.7 percent for
females. On a geographical basis, the corresponding proportions for
all wage earners were 4.6 percent in the New England States, 5.0
percent in the Middle Atlantic States, 2.9 percent in the Middle
Western States (including California), and as much as 27.9 percent in
the Southern States.
The effect of the Fair Labor Standards Act upon groups of plants
having approximately the same wage level may be seen from table 11.
In the few lowest-paid establishments, namely those averaging under
35 cents an hour, as many as 25.4 percent of all workers earned exactly
25 cents, and 46.7 percent received less than 30 cents. All of these
plants, it should be remembered, were in the lower Southern States.
None of the other groups of establishments was affected to any extent







P l a t e 3.—W e t - W h e e l e r , E m e r y G r i n d i n g .




plate

4.—S t a k e r , M a c h i n e .

AVERAGE

EXOURLY

23

E A R N IN G S

by the 30-cent minimum. The impact of the 30-cent minimum was
therefore largely confined to plants employing less than 1% percent of
the workers in the industry. On the other hand, a 40-cent minimum
would affect not only the lowest-paid plants but also those in other
wage classes. In the lowest-paid establishments, all but 7.9 percent
of the wage earners were paid below 40 cents. For plants averaging
between 35 and 45 cents the proportion was 36.2 percent, as com­
pared with 15.7 percent for those with averages between 45 and 50
cents, 9.0 percent for those averaging between 50 and 55 cents, and
4.5 percent for those with averages between 55 and 60 cents. All four
of these groups of establishments were scattered geographically. None
of the other groups of plants would be affected much by a 40-cent
minimum.
T a b l e 1 1 .— Percentage distribution o f leather workers, by average hourly earnings
and by groups o f plants, Septem ber 1939
Plants having average hourly earnings of—

Average hourly earnings

35
45
U nder and
and
35
under under
cents
45
50
cents cents

Under 25 cents. _________ __ _
Exactly 25 cents_______ _ .
25.1 and under 27.5 cents. _ . _
27.5 and under 30.0 cents.. . .
30.0 and under 32.5 cents.

25.4
12. 2
9.1
19.2

2. 2
.3
.1
5.2

0.3
.3

32.5
35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5

35.0 cents . __
37.5 cents_____
40.0 cents____
42.5 cents_____
47.5 cents_____

19. 6
5.1
1.5
2.5
2.2

10.7
11.1
6.6
31.5
10.9

47.5 and under 52.5 cents__
52.5 and under 57.5 cents. _
57.5 and under 62.5 cents____
62.5 and under 67.5 cents. . .
G7.5 and under 72.5 cents____

.5
.8
.3
.2
.8

and
and
and
and
and

72.5 and
77.5 and
82.5 and
87.5 and
92.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

under
under
under
under
under

77.5 cents
82.5 cents. _. .
87.5 cents
92.5 cents___
100.0 cents. _

75
65
70
50
55
60
and
and
and
and
and
and
under under under under under under
75
55
65
70
80
60
cents cents cents cents cents cents

1.0

0)
0.6
.2
.5
.4

1.8
6.6
5.3
18.5
24.2

.5
3.6
1.7
13.9
14.7

.1
2.3
.4
2.4
6.5

.3
.5
.4
3.5
5.1

.6
.8
5.5
5.8

0.1
1.9

8.2
6.4
4.3
.8
.3

18.3
9.8
4.5
1.9
3.3

20.2
12.1
13. 7
7. 6
3.9

17.3
22.8
17.7
13.6
6.9

9.9
11.0
18.7
15.9
14.6

.3

1.0
.2

.3

.2

.8
.4
.5
.9
.6

3.0
.9
.4
.3
.2

3.1
2.3
1. 5
.8
.2

.4
.2

.1
0)

.3
.i

100.0 and under 110.0 cents
110.0 and under 125.0 cents.
125.0 and under 150.0 cents150.0 cents and ove r___

.4

(9
(i)
0.1
.1

0.1

(9

0.1
.7
.5
.5
1.4

80
cents
and
over

0.1

.1

0.3

.7
5.5

.2
.4
2.4
2.1

.3
.3
.1
.4
.8

7.0
8.7
9.4
10. 5
9.4

7.4
7.4
11.6
12.0
8.2

3.4
8.3
13.1
9.3
8.7

3.5
5.0
18.3
7.3
6.7

7. 7
5.1
2.7
2.1
.6

13. 2
9.8
5. 2
3.7
6.3

7.8
9.6
6.4
4.2
9. 2

8.8
8.7
7.0
8.6
7. 7

3. 5
6. 2
2.8
4.6
4 .6

1.1
.1
.5

2.1
1. 0
.6
.2

4.9
1. 6
1. 5

6.8
2. 3
1. 5
.6

12.7
11. 5
7. 3
3.8

(9

(9

(9

(0

(9

__ _____________

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

Number of workers (weight­
ed)__________________________

647

972

3, 538

4,188

11, 632

8, 494

6, 293

5, 057

5,504

1,579

Total.

(9

i Less than Ho of 1 percent.

Differences Betw een U n ion and N onunion Plants

Unionism has existed in the leather industry for many years.

At

14
As defined in this survey, a union establishment is one in which the majority of employees are covered
by either a written or oral agreement with an affiliated union. Plants with an employee organization con­
fined to only one company are included with the nonunion establishments. There were relatively few such
plants, although they covered a substantial number of workers in the industry.
240482°—41----- 5




24

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

I N D U S T R IE S

the time of the survey, approximately one-fourth of the workers were
employed in union 14 establishments. Several important unions are
active in the industry. One is the International Fur and Leather
Workers of the United States and Canada (formerly the National
Leather Workers Association), which is affiliated with the Congress
of Industrial Organizations. Another is the United Leather Workers
International Union, an affiliate of the American Federation of Labor.
In the Johnstown-Gloversville area in New York State, the dominant
union is the Independent Leather Workers Union of Fulton County,
N . Y ., which is not affiliated with either the C. I. O. or A. F. of L. On
the Pacific Coast, moreover, several establishments have agreements
with the Amalgamated M eat Cutters and Butcher Workmen of
North America.
The union establishments were prevalent in some of the important
producing centers in the industry. A substantial number of plants
with union agreements was found in the Boston metropolitan area,
especially in Peabody and Woburn, Mass. Union establishments
were likewise concentrated in the Johnstown-Gloversville area, New­
ark, the Philadelphia-Camden area, and San Francisco. A few plants
with union agreements were also scattered throughout other parts of
the Northern States. Of the establishments covered in the survey,
none in the Southern States was found to have a union agreement.
T able

1 2 .—

Average hourly earnings o f leather workers in the northern region, by
size o f com m unity, unionization , sex, and skill, Septem ber 1939
Number of workers (weighted)

Population of com­
munity and un­
ionization

20,000 and
100,000:

Average hourly earnings

Males
All
work­
ers

Total Skilled

Males

Semi­
U n­
skilled skilled

All
Fe­
work­
males
ers

Total Skilled

Fe­
Semi­
U n ­ males
skilled skilled

under

Union plants___
N o n u n i o n
p la n t s _____ _
,000,000 and over:
Union plants___
N o n u n i o n
plants - ______

1,252

111

309

2, 860

1,025

242

.632

.640

.694

9,099 8,019

1,345

4, 545

2,129

1,080

.691

.722

.872

.746

.572

.462

10,554 9,734

1,915

5,169

2, 650

820

.667

.683

.853

.684

.558

.463

1

36 $0. 774 $0. 785 $0.818 $0. 862 $0. 590

0)

796

571

1,216

4,698 4,456

.658

.560 $0. 471

1 N ot a sufficient coverage to permit the presentation of an average.

For the most part, the union establishments in the Northern States
were in communities with a population between 20,000 and 100,000
and in metropolitan areas with 1,000,000 and over, so that any com­
parison between union and nonunion plants must be confined to these
two classes of communities. As may be seen from table 12, the average
hourly earnings of all workers were higher in union than nonunion




AVERAGE

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

25

establishments in communities of both size groups, the difference
amounting to 14.2 cents in communities between 20,000 and 100,000,
but only 2.4 cents in metropolitan areas with 1,000,000 and over.
Differences also appear for each skill group among the males. The
only comparison for females is in metropolitan areas of 1,000,000 and
over, where the hourly earnings in both union and nonunion plants
averaged approximately the same.
Variations by Sise o f Com m unity 15

The leather industry is concentrated to a marked extent in the large
industrial communities. In terms of employment, 41.0 percent of the
total workers were located in metropolitan areas with a population of
1,000,000 and over. One fourth (25.3 percent) were found in medium­
sized communities, namely those between 100,000 and 1,000,000,
and one-third (33.7 percent) were in places under 100,000.
There was no consistent relationship between hourly earnings and
size of community. Average hourly earnings for nonunion plants in
the North were 55.7 cents in places under 10,000, 60.8 cents in com­
munities between 10,000 and 20,000, and 63.2 cents in communities of
20.000 to 100,000. This seems to indicate a progression of hourly
earnings with size of community. On the other hand, in communities
of 100,000 to 250,000, the average was 60.9 cents, while in those with a
population of 250,000 to 1,000,000 the average was 56.6 cents, or no
higher than the figure in the smallest communities studied. In the
metropolitan centers of more than 1,000,000, the average for nonunion
plants was 66.7 cents.
Among union plants, as has already been pointed out, higher aver­
ages prevailed in communities with a population between 20,000 and
100.000 than in metropolitan areas of 1,000,000 and over, the respec­
tive figures amounting to 77.4 and 69.1 cents. It should be pointed
out, however, that nearly all of the union establishments in places be­
tween 20,000 and 100,000 were located in the Johnstown-Gloversville
area, which reported an exceptionally high wage level.
Owing to the fact that only a small part of the industry was located
in the Southern States, the coverage here was not sufficiently large to
permit an analysis of the data by size of community.
is B y size of community is meant here the size of metropolitan area within which the plant is located.
For places with a population of 100,000 or more, the Bureau utilized the metropolitan districts as defined by
the U . S. Bureau of the Census. On the other hand, for communities with less than 100,000, similar metro­
politan centers were set up, including not only the population within a particular political subdivision but
also that of the nearby areas. Roughly speaking, the metropolitan districts correspond to labor-market
areas, within which there is competition among workers for jobs as well as among employers for workers.




26

E A R N IN G S

AND

H OURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

Product Differences

Thus far, the analysis has been on the basis of leather manufacturing
as a whole, in order to determine the part played in shaping the indus­
try’s wage structure by various factors, such as the composition of the
labor force as to sex and skill, geographical location, unionization, and
size of community. From the competitive standpoint, however, it is
important to view differences in wages on the basis of either individual
products or groups of products that are manufactured by the various
plants in the industry.
As already indicated, a wide variety of separate products is manu­
factured in the leather industry. Any classification of the wage data
on a product basis, however, must be more or less arbitrary. This is
due to the fact that numerous establishments are engaged in making
more than one product. Such plants were here classified on the basis
of the value of the predominating product. On the other hand, there
are many establishments that specialize in the manufacture of a single
product.
In terms of employment, the most important product in the indus­
try is side upper leather, with approximately one-third (32.7 percent)
of the total wage earners working primarily on this product. Ex­
actly one-fifth of the employees worked largely on sole and belting
leather, while kid upper and calf upper leather accounted respectively
for 12.9 and 7.9 percent. Only 2.5 percent of the wage earners worked
primarily on glove leather, but as many as 11.6 percent were mainly
engaged in the making of other sheepskin leather. The miscellaneous
group of leather includes a variety of products, each of which ac­
counted for a small number of employees, with the total group in­
cluding 12.4 percent of all workers in the industry.
The lowest hourly earnings in the industry generally prevailed
among plants making primarily sole and belting leather. Several
factors are responsible for this situation. First, although hardly any
females (0.1 percent) were found in these establishments, these plants
showed relatively few (9.7 percent) skilled males, with substantial
proportions of semiskilled (47.0 percent) and unskilled (43.2 percent)
males (see table 13); second, although the plants are widely scattered
geographically, a significant number is located in the Southern States;
third, very few of the establishments were unionized; lastly, many of
the plants are in the smaller communities, especially in western
Pennsylvania and the Southern States.




AVERAGE

T able

HOURLY

27

E A R N IN G S

13. — Average hourly earnings o f leather workers, by product, sex, and skill,
Septem ber 1939

Product

All
workers

Males

Fe­
Semi­ Un­ males
Total Skilled skilled
skilled
Number of workers (weighted)

All products ___________
_____ ___ _
Side upper leather __ _ _
Sole, including belting, leather______ _ __ _ _ __ __
Kid upper leather. __ __________ ____ ___________
Calf upper leather________________________________
Glove leather 2___ _ ____ ___________ _
Other sheepskin leather_________ __ ___________
Miscellaneous leather. ... . . . _____ . ____
1

47,904 43, 895
15, 611 14, 376
9, 579 9, 573
6,170 5, 041
3, 774 3,133
,
,
5, 568 4,
5, 982 5, 684
1 220

1 220
868

, 439 24, 280 13,176
1, 768 , 842 3, 766
933 4, 503 4,137
1,448 2, 335 1,258
699 1,756
678
126
789
305
579 2,977 1,312
3,078 1,720

6

8

886

4,009
1,235
1,129
641
700
298
6

Percent of workers
All products_____________________ ... ... . . . ____
Side upper leather _______________________________
Sole, including belting, leather___ .
___
Kid upper leather ___ _ ____ ...
....
Calf upper leather___ ________________ ...
Glove leather ___ _
Other sheepskin leather__
_ _ .... . . . _
Miscellaneous leather____________________________
1

2

1 0 0 .0
1 0 0 .0
1 0 0 .0
1 0 0 .0
1 0 0 .0
1 0 0 .0
1 0 0 .0
1 0 0 .0

91.6
92.1
99.9
81.7
83.0
87.4
95.0

1 0 0 .0

13.4
11.3
9.7
23.5
18.5
10.3
10.4
14.8

50.7
56.7
47.0
37.8
46.5
64. 7
53.4
51.4

27.5
24.1
43.2
20.4
18.0
25. 0
23.6
28.8

8.4
7.9
18.3
17.0
.1

1 2 .6

5.0

Average hourly earnings
All products___________ ___________ _____ _______ $0.623 $0. 638 $0. 773 $0. 656 $0.538
.632 .647 .744 .662 .566
Side upper leather1... ______________ _______ ...
Sole, including belting, leather_______ __ ______ _
.567 .567 .649 .584 .528
Kid upper leather__________________________ ____ .632 .680 .865 .649 .523
Calf upper leather___________ ________ _.. _____ .723 .766 .884 .766 .638
Glove leather2_
.
__ _____
.827 .827 .831 4.927 .598
Other sheepskin leather______________ ... ______ .596 .615 .702 .642 .512
Miscellaneous leather_____________________________ .608 .616 .780 .640 .489

$0.445
.442
(3).411
.507
.453
.432

1Includes integrated plants engaged in both tanning and finishing of patent leather.
2Includes sheep, kid, “cabretta,” and cape glove leather.
3N ot a sufficient number of workers to permit the presentation of an average.
4For an explanation regarding this figure, see p. 29.
Hourly earnings of all workers in establishments manufacturing
primarily side upper leather averaged 63.2 cents. With a few excep­
tions, the averages of the plants covered in the survey ranged between
55 and 80 cents. The highest wage level was found in the PeabodyWoburn area, which is an important district for this product. This
area is highly unionized and all but one of its establishments averaged
above 75 cents or considerably higher than other New England plants.
Another important district includes the Middle Western States, where
establishments engaged mainly in the making of side upper leather
have grown up as a result of proximity to the meat-packing industry.
Compared to the Peabody-Woburn area, however, hourly earnings
in this district were substantially lower, with all but one plant averag­
ing below 65 cents. In the Middle Atlantic States, where this product
is also of importance, the averages of all but one of the establishments
ranged between 65 and 75 cents.




28

E A R N IN G S

AND

H O U R S ',

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

As regards composition of labor force, there were only 11.3 per­
cent skilled males, as compared with 56.7 percent semiskilled and
24.1 percent unskilled males and 7.9 percent females.
As with side upper leather, the average hourly earnings of all
workers in plants making kid upper leather amounted to 63.2 cents.
The composition of the labor force, however, in these plants was
considerably different from that in the side upper plants. Thus, in
establishments producing kid upper leather, there were 23.5 percent
skilled, 37.8 percent semiskilled, and 20.4 percent unskilled males,
and 18.3 percent females. Moreover, skilled males in kid upper
leather averaged more than those working primarily on side upper
leather, but the opposite was true of semiskilled and unskilled males
and all females. The two most important producing centers in kid
upper leather are Philadelphia and Wilmington, with the former
having a much higher wage level than the latter. For plants covered
in the survey, the averages ranged from 59 to 73 cents in Phila­
delphia and from 49 to 58 cents in Wilmington. Very few establish­
ments making kid upper leather were unionized at time of survey.
For all workers in establishments producing primarily sole and
belting leather, the average hourly earnings amounted to 56.7 cents.
Taking the plants covered in the survey, the averages ranged from
31 to 79 cents. In spite of this wide dispersion, there were several
fairly homogeneous wage areas in connection with this product.
One of these comprises the Lower Southern States, in which all but
one establishment averaged below 35 cents. Another includes the
border States, where the plant averages covered a range between
45 and 55 cents. A third consists of the small towns in western
Pennsylvania, with most establishments averaging between 55 and
60 cents. This district is especially important in the manufacture of
sole and belting leather. Plants making sole and belting leather are
also located in the New England States, the Middle Atlantic States
outside of western Pennsylvania, and the Middle Western States,
including California. In each district, the Hourly earnings varied
considerably, with most plant averages being above 60 cents, especially
in the metropolitan areas of Boston and San Francisco.
For all workers in plants engaged mainly in the production of calf
upper leather, the average hourly earnings were 72.3 cents. In these
establishments, the composition of the labor force was very similar to
that found in plants manufacturing kid upper leather. On the
other hand, the hourly earnings in establishments working primarily
on calf upper leather averaged higher than those in kid upper leather
for each skill-sex group. Some of the plants making largely calf upper
leather are found in Peabody, while others are scattered through­
out the Middle Atlantic and Middle Western States. In the Pea­
body establishments, moreover, the hourly earnings averaged con-




AVERAGE

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

29

siderably more than those in other parts of the country. Some
of the plants were unionized, and most of them are located in the
larger communities.
Establishments making fine glove leather are for the most part
in the Johnstown-Gloversville area of New York. Furthermore, by
far the great majority of these plants were unionized. With few
exceptions, the various establishments covered in the survey showed
average hourly earnings of over 80 cents. For all workers, the
average amounted to 82.7 cents. It will be observed, however, that
this average is largely influenced by the high hourly earnings of
semiskilled males, who constituted 64.7 percent of the total labor
force.16 These semiskilled males averaged 92.7 cents, which is even
higher than the average of skilled males. In this connection, it is to
be noted that almost three-fourths of the semiskilled males were on
piece work, as against only about one-eighth of the skilled males.
The hourly earnings of semiskilled males on glove leather averaged
higher than those on any product for which separate figures are
shown, although this was not true of the skilled and unskilled males.
The “ other sheepskin leather” group includes not only sheep and
kid garment leather, but also such other sheepskin leather products
as are used for hat sweatbands, textile rollers, shoe linings, etc.
Although the average hourly earnings of the plants covered by the
survey in this group ranged from 44 to 77 cents, most of the estab­
lishments averaged between 60 and 72 cents. A considerable number
of the plants had union agreements. Geographically, most of the
establishments were located along the Atlantic coast, due to the
fact that sheep and kid skins are largely imported from abroad.
In the miscellaneous leather group, there is included an even
greater variety of products than is found in “ other sheepskin leather.”
The miscellaneous group covers plants engaged in patent finishing or
embossed finishing, as well as those working on harness, upholstery,
fancy, luggage (bag, case, and strap), lacing, glove leathers other than
sheepskin (cowhide, horsehide, and pigskin), packing, textile machin­
ery, horsehide upper, and other leather. Some of these products
deserve special attention. Harness leather (including saddle, collar,
and skirting), for example, is unique in that it covers two competitive
areas, one embracing for the most part the Middle Western States,
including California, and the other the Lower Southern States. The
wage level was not very high in either of these areas, although the
establishments in the Northern States averaged considerably more
than those in the Lower Southern States.17 Aside from harness

There were only 10.3 percent skilled and 25.0 percent unskilled males. No females were reported in any
Of the establishments covered by the survey.
Of the total number of workers in harness leather, 25.0 percent earned under 30 cents, 39.0 percent less
than 35 cents, and 47.6 percent below 40 cents.
18

17




30

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

I N D U S T R IE S

leather, nearly all of the plants in the miscellaneous group were
located in the Northern States. Establishments manufacturing up­
holstery or fancy leather (found, for the most part, in the New York
City metropolitan area) had fairly high average hourly earnings.
Plants engaged in patent finishing, most of which are in the PeabodyWoburn area, also showed high hourly earnings. By contrast, es­
tablishments engaged in embossed finishing, which are scattered
throughout the Northern States, had a lower wage level. Many of
the above plants, especially patent finishing and fancy leather, had
union agreements.
Table 14 presents the distribution, in terms of simple percentages,
of individual earnings for each of the various product groups.
T able

14. — Percentage distribution o f leather w orkers, by average hourly earnings
and by product, September 1939

Average hourly earnings

Side
Total upper
leather

1

Sole, in­ Kid Calf
Other Miscel­
cluding upper upper Glove sheep­ laneous
belting, leather
leather
skin
leather
leather
leather leather
2

Under 25.0 cents._ __ _ _ _ .
(3)
(3)0. 4 (3).
Exactly 25.0 cents .
.
25.1 and under 27.5 cents
.3
.3
.3
27.5 and under 30.0 cents..
.4
.7
.3
30.0 and under 32.5 cents__________
.7
.4
32.5 and under 35.0 cents__________
35.0 and under 37.5 cents__________
1.9
.7
37.5 and under 40.0 cents
.
.
.
40.0 and under 42.5 cents___ ____ _
5. 5
5.7
42.5 and under 47.5 cents.
_ _ 7.4
5. 1
9.9
47.5 and under 52.5 cents. .
11.5 11. 5 16.9
52.5 and under 57.5 cents__________ 12. 5
.
19. 5
57.5 and under 62.5 cents__ _____ 13.9 15.7 13. 5
62.5 and under 67.5 cents___ _____
13. 7 10.9
67.5 and under 72.5 cents___ ... ...
.
6.5
72.5 and under 77.5 cents__________
.
.
4.0
77.5 and under 82.5 cents__ _ _____ 5. 1
2. 5
5.3
3.2
82.5 and under 87.5 cents____ ._ ...
3. 2
1. 3
87.5 and under 92.5 cents_______ _.
2. 7
92.5 and under 100.0 cents_________
3. 1
1.9
and under
cents_________
2. 3
1.4
.6
110.0 and under 125.0 cents_______
.
125.0 and under 150.0 cents
___
.7
.2 (3)
150.0 cents and over____________ __
.2 (3)
Total______________________
Number of workers (weighted)_____ 47, 904 15, 611 9, 579

0 .1

0 2

0 6

0 .2

(3). l
.4
.9
7.0
1. 4
8.9
8.5
.
7.0
.
7.4
5.9
5.2
5.0
2.3

1 .8

.8

.2

1 2

1 6
2 .8

1 .2
.6
6

10 6

12 6

1 0 .8
8 .2

11 1

6 1

8 1

2 .6

1 0 0 .0

10 0

6 .8

1 .2
2 .0

6 .8

3.6

1 1 0 .0

1 .0

1 0 0 .0

.8

1 0 0 .0

1

1 0 0 .0

1 .1
.8
1

.

1 0 0 .0
6

, 170

0 .2

.5
.
.4
4

0 .1

.7

.1

.4
.3
3.5
4.0
10. 4
6 .0

.3
.

8 .8
1 1 .1

20 1
8 .1

1 .1

.2

7.8
7.6
10.4
5.
5.9
5.8
1.7
.9
.4
8
8 .8

1
.8

2 .1

4. 5
.
6.9
3.4
.7
2.7
4. 5
4.6
12.3
8.9
3.9
6

8 .1

1 0 0 .0

1 0 0 .0

3, 774

1 220

,

0 .1

.
.9
.l

2 8

.8

!6

.2
1 .8

2 .0

13
9.8
11.3
12.9
12.3
9.4
.
5. 3
4. 5
3.9
2. 5
2.7
1.7
.4
.
1 0 .8

6 1

.8

1

3.0
.

5.

1 8
8
8 .6
8 .2
1 0 .6

16.8
8 .8
8 .2

5.9
3.7
1 .8
2 .0

2.3
2.4
1.3
.7
1 .6

1 0 0 .0

1 0 0 .0

5, 568

5, 982

1Includes integrated plants engaged in both tanning and finishing of patent leather.
2Includes sheep, kid, cabretta, and cape glove leather.
3Less than a tenth of 1 percent.
Occupational Differences

Within each of the broad skill-sex groups, hourly earnings varied
conspicuously by occupation. Among the skilled males, average
hourly earnings by occupation ranged from 86.2 cents for daubers
(final coat, patent leather) to 65.8 cents for miscellaneous maintenance
workers. Next to daubers, the highest occupational averages were
reported for the various kinds of working foremen over productive




AVERAGE

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

31

departments, such as beam house, tanning, finishing, and sorting and
shipping, each of which groups averaged considerably over 80 cents.
Several groups of machine operators, namely those working on glazing,
splitting, and shaving machines, also averaged over 80 cents. A few
other productive occupations, such as inspectors and sorters of finished
leather, on the other hand, averaged between 70 and 75 cents. Most
of the occupational groups with averages under 80 cents, however,
were composed of nonproductive workers.
The highest hourly earnings for any occupation regarded by employ­
ees as semiskilled are shown for wet wheelers (emery grinding), whose
average amounted to 90.9 cents. In fact, this figure is higher than
the national average of any of the skilled occupations. At the other
extreme among the semiskilled male occupations are the stretchingmachine operators, oiling-off machine operators, and hand leather
stuffers, spongers, and oilers, whose averages were respectively 52.3,
49.5, and 48.9 cents. Omitting these extremes, the occupational
averages for semiskilled males ranged from 77.5 cents for machine
stakers to 55.9 cents for miscellaneous maintenance workers. In other
words, even with the extremes omitted, the range of occupational
averages among semiskilled males is fairly wide, but it must be remem­
bered that the leather industry is for the most part one with a large
number of semiskilled workers, who differ widely as to degree of skill.
It should be noted that in the semiskilled male occupations for which
separate figures are shown for hand and machine workers, with two
exceptions, there is very little difference between the respective aver­
ages. In the important occupation of stakers, for example, the average
hourly earnings amounted to 77.5 cents for machine workers and 77.4
cents for hand workers.
The highest paid unskilled males are the beam house haulers, clean­
ers of equipment, and stampers of hides and leather, who averaged
61-62 cents an hour. For the remaining occupations, the averages
ranged from 57.6 cents for tan house haulers to 45.6 cents for watch­
men. The small group of learners averaged 48.8 cents, which was
higher than the averages shown for miscellaneous laborers, strippers
of leather (other than patent), janitors, and watchmen.




32

T able

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATH ER

IN D U S T R IE S

15 .— Average hourly earnings, weekly hours, and weekly earnings o f leather
w o r k e r s h y sex, skilly and occupation^ September 1989

Sex, skill, and occupation

Number of Average Average Average
workers hourly weekly weekly
(weighted) earnings hours earnings
47,672
43,663
6,419
283
206
243
166
656
109
184
331
977
215
574
113
1,015
591
319
280
56
24,235
762
168
123
160
195
275
1,498
113
505
722
227
1,354
480
544
838
155
193
330
303
74
76
313
939
142
1,094

$0. 625
.640
.774
Skilled_____________________________________________
.662
Carpenters______________ _________ ___________
.862
Daubers, final coat, patent leather-------------------- ----Electricians______ . _____ - - .. ---------------- .769
.757
Engineers, power plant----------------------------------------Foremen, working, beam house___________________
.847
Foremen, working, finishing__ _____ _ .. _____
.833
Foremen, working, sorting, and shipping... . ___
.836
Foremen, working, tanning_________ _. . ------.846
.752
Foremen, working, miscellaneous__________ _______
Glazing machine operators____________________ ___
.839
Inspectors________________________ ____________
.725
Machine repairmen________ _________________ ___
.668
Millwrights__________________________ __________
.747
Shaving machine operators_______________________
.820
Sorters, finished leather________ _____ ________ . . _
.699
Splitting machine operators. ... __ ______________
.821
Miscellaneous workers, maintenance, skilled_______
.658
Miscellaneous workers, other, skilled---------------------.659
Semiskilled--------------------------------------------------------------.656
Beamsters, or scudders, hand___________________ _
.659
Beamsters or scudders, machine________________ .
.659
Bleaching machine operators________________ ___
.565
Boarders or grainers, h a n d ...........................................
.756
Boarders or grainers, machine_________________ ___
.662
Brushing machine operators________ _________ _
.573
Buffers_____________________ __________________
.722
Buffers and polishers, hand______________ ________
.649
Clerks, plant_______________________________ ____
.596
Color wheel operators.............. ..... . ._ . _______
.599
Croppers or cutters, hides and skins, hand_________
.621
Finishers or seasoners, hand____ _______ . _____
.646
Finishing or seasoning machine operators_______ ...
.636
Firemen, power p la n t________ ... _ __________
.617
Fleshing machine operators___________ _____ ______
.671
Ironers, leather, machine----------- -------------------- ..
.613
Liquor men, tanning_____________
_________
.584
Measuring machine operators___... ... ... ... ..
.591
Mixers, finishing solutions.. ____ _______________
.648
Mixers, solutions, beam house................ ........... .
.
.687
Oiling-off machine operators.______________________
.495
Pasters, leather drying... ______ _______________
.697
Plating and embossing press operators_____________
.660
Press operators, miscellaneous_____________________
.610
Rolling machine operators______________ ______ ___
.620
Setters-out, hand________________________________
.622
Setters-out, machine____ __________ _____________
1,626
.624
Sorters, hides and skins____________ __________ .
318
.663
Sorters, leather in process_________________ ______
494
.602
Splitting machine helpers........................................ .........
349
.605
Sprayers, leather_________________________________
410
.575
Stakers, hand___________________________________
348
.774
Stakers, machine. _____ _________ ... . _
1,805
.775
Stretching machine operators_______ _________
72
.523
Stuffers, spongers, and oilers, leather, hand.................
350
.489
Stuffing and oiling wheel operators________________
283
.574
Tackers, leather drying_________ ____ _________ __
1,399
.728
Togglers, leather drying__________________________
1,323
.752
Trimmers, hides and skins, hand________ ________
717
.659
Trimmers, leather, hand.______ _____________ _____
385
.627
1 Exclusive of those in 1 plant for whom data by occupation are not available.

All workers---------------------------------------------------------------------




101

201

39.1
39. 2
40. 5
42.5
37.8
40.5
45.4
41.6
42.1
42.4
42.3
41.7
37.8
39.8
42.0
42.6
38. 1
41.3
39.2
42. 5
40.8
39.0
38.2
36.9
39.6
37.4
39.3
39.4
37.2
42.2
41. 9
39.4
38.4
39.9
38.7
43.0
39.1
41.0
39.9
40.7
42.6
39.2
40.8
41. 5
39. 7
38.6
39.5
37.3
38.8
40.7
41. 5
39. 7
43.2
37.4
38.4
43.8
40.3
39.5
37.4
34.7
38.7
38.4

$24. 42
25.14
31.33
28.14
32. 58
31.12
34. 38
35. 27
35.06
35.40
35. 76
31. 34
31. 73
28. 85
28. 07
31.80
31. 22
28. 89
32.20
27. 96
26.87
25. 62
25.20
24. 35
22. 37
28.23
26.00
22.60
26.89
27. 40
24. 98
23. 57
23.84
25.78
24. 65
26. 53
26. 26
25.10
23. 27
24. 06
27. 55
26.90
. 18
28. 94
26.19
23. 56
24. 51
23.17
24. 21
26. 97
24. 96
24. 02
24.85
28.98
29. 78
22.90
19.70
22. 71
27. 23
26. 07
25. 50
24.09
20

AVERAGE

HOURLY

33

E A R N IN G S

T a b l e 15.— Average

hourly earnings, weekly hours, and w eekly earnings o f leather
workers, hy sex, skill, and occupation, Septem ber 1989— Continued

Sex, skill, and occupation
Males—Continued.
Semiskilled—Continued.
Truck and tractor drivers________________________
Unhairing-machine operators___ . ___ __ _______
Weighers and counters__________ ________ ____ Wet wheelers, emery grinding,.. __ _ . __ ______
Wheel operators, miscellaneous______ ____ ________
Wringing-machine operators______________________
Miscellaneous workers, maintenance, semiskilled.-.
Miscellaneous workers, other, semiskilled_______ _
Unskilled__________________________________________
Cleaners, equipment___ _____ ________
Dippers, dampening_____________________________
Dippers, finishing solutions______________ _______
Driers, leather____ ______________________ ____ ___
Elevator operators_______ ___________ _________
Hair-room workers, unskilled. . . _ . . ______ ..
Haulers, beam house. ________
. ______ ..
Haulers, tan house________ _____ ...
____
Janitors________ ________________________________
Laborers, beam house________________ _________
Laborers, finishing______________________________
Laborers, hide house... _______ . . _____...
Laborers, shipping and stock______________________
Laborers, tan house_________________ _____ _______
Laborers, miscellaneous______________________ ...
Learners_____ . _____________ . _____________
Measuring-machine helpers----------------------------------Packers, leather_________________________________
Plating and embossing press helpers_______________
Set-out machine helpers____ ... . ________
Stampers, hides and leather_____ __________ _
Strippers, leather, other than patent_______________
Watchmen... .. .. ______ ____________ ________
Miscellaneous workers, beam house, unskilled______
Miscellaneous workers, finishing, unskilled__ ____ _
Miscellaneous workers, tan house, unskilled________
Miscellaneous workers, other, unskilled--------- .. . .
Females__ ____ ________________________________________
Skilled_____________________________________________
Glazing-machine operators________________________
Miscellaneous workers, skilled________________ ...
Semiskilled_________________________________________
Clerks, plant_______ .. _____
________ _ ..
Finishers or seasoners, hand____ .. ________ _
Finishing- or seasoning-machine operators______ ..
Ironers, leather, machine________________ ________
Measuring-machine operators_____________________
Sprayers, leather__________________ _____ _ ______
Trimmers, leather, hand_________________________
Miscellaneous hand workers, semiskilled____ _ ...
Miscellaneous machine operators, semiskilled______
Unskilled___________________________________________
Driers, leather________________________ ... ____
Learners________________________________________
Measuring-machine helpers____ ... _________ ...
Miscellaneous workers, unskilled............................... .

Number of Average Average Average
workers hourly weekly weekly
(weighted) earnings hours earnings
214
453
147
133
336
319
337
633
13,009
96
276
216
1, 327
158
202
1,583
1,800
237
721
1,467
472
266
364
531
63
119
616
304
106
89
268
515
213
519
245
236
4, 009
335
260
75
3,036
97
1, 277
318
118
78
153
439
248
308
638
150
80
298
110

.605
.643
.582
.909
.605
.617
.559
.619
.542
.612
.547
.549
.536
.496
.528
.618
.576
.463
.566
.529
.533
.524
.518
.484
.488
.489
.512
.564
.506
.613
.467
.456
.573
.547
.525
.495
.445
.495
.504
.465
.449
.423
.449
.497
.434
.444
.423
.452
.405
.457
.395
.419
.355
.395
.389

41.6
38.7
38.2
36.7
38.3
38.1
43.0
38.9
39.1
38.5
40.2
39.5
39.4
41.2
4L4
38.7
39.0
39.6
39.1
38.3
37.3
39.8
38.7
36.7
35.6
41.0
40.0
37.1
36.9
36.8
36.5
46.8
36.5
38.8
38.2
39.0
37.4
37.7
37.0
40.0
38.0
39.3
37.3
37.7
38.1
37.8
37.6
38.2
38.8
40.0
34.5
35.7
40.8
35.2
2 1 .1

25.16
24.87
22.23
33. 35
23.18
23.47
24.04
24.09
21.18
23. 55
21.97
2 1 .6 6
2 1 .1 0

20. 43
21.89
23.90
22.48
18.36
22.15
20.24
19.90
20.09
17.74
17. 34
20.46
20.95
18.68
22. 55
17.06
. 38
20.92
2 0 .8 6

2 0 .0 2

21

2 1 .2 0

20.04
19.28
16.64
18.65
18. 67
18.60
17.05
16.61
16.74
18.74
16. 53
16. 79
15. 91
17. 27
15. 72
18.28
13. 63
14.96
7. 48
16.12
13.70

Generally speaking, employees in the beam house averaged some­
what more than those performing similar work in the tan house. This
was particularly true of some of the unskilled occupations for males.
Haulers in the beam house, for example, averaged 61.8 cents an hour,




34

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

as against 57.6 cents for haulers in the tan house. Similarly, com­
mon laborers in the beam house showed an average of 56.6 cents, as
compared with 51.8 cents for common laborers in the tan house.

In contrast with the wide range of hourly earnings among the male
occupations, those of female workers were confined to rather restricted
limits. The range of occupational averages among female employees
was less than 15 cents, the highest average (50.4 cents) being shown
for glazing-machine operators, a skilled occupation, and the lowest
average (35.5 cents) for learners. Among the semiskilled female
occupations, average hourly earnings ranged from 40.5 cents for the
miscellaneous hand workers to 49.7 cents for finishing- or seasoningmachine operators. Of the few occupations in which both males and
females were employed, the average hourly earnings of males were
without exception considerably higher than those of females, but the
differences declined as the skill of the occupation decreased.
Variations by Race o f Workers

Of the total wage earners in the leather industry, 4.1 percent were
Negroes. The proportion of colored workers, however, varied from
one region to another. There were hardly any Negroes employed in
leather in the New England States, but the proportion amounted
to 4.5 percent in the Middle Atlantic and 4.2 percent in the Middle
Western States. In these States, moreover, the colored workers
showed a tendency to concentrate in the larger metropolitan areas.
In the Southern States, on the other hand, 17.0 percent of all employees
were Negroes.
Since the plants in the Southern States specialize primarily on sole
and belting, as well as harness, leather, the proportion of Negroes
working on those products was considerably greater than on other
products. Moreover, the proportion of colored workers was substan­
tially higher in the beam and tan houses than in other departments,
the respective figures amounting to 9.7, 8.1, and 2.0 percent.18 The
most unpleasant jobs in the industry are located in the beam and tan
houses. The great majority of the Negroes were in semiskilled and
unskilled occupations. Thus, the colored workers constituted 4.1
percent of the semiskilled and 7.0 percent of the unskilled males, as
against less than 1 percent of the skilled males. Virtually all of the
Negroes employed in the industry were males, the number of females
amounting to only 2.3 percent.

A careful check of the basic data indicates that, in all plants where
whites and Negroes were employed side by side on the same work,
there was no difference in their rates of pay. In some establishments,
especially in the Southern States, Negro workers were employed
18 These percentages are exclusive of workers in occupations that could not be classified by department.




AVERAGE

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

35

exclusively in certain occupations. Owing to the other factors that
play a part in the wage structure, however, it is impossible to deter­
mine whether or not the Negroes received lower rates of pay than
white employees in the same occupations in other plants.
On the other hand, there is no doubt that the colored employees
occupied the lower rungs in the wage ladder of the leather industry.
One principal reason for this is the fact that the Negroes were for the
most part found in the semiskilled and unskilled occupations. An­
other important reason is the concentration of colored workers in the
Southern States, which showed a considerably lower wage level than
the Northern States.
As a result, the average hourly earnings of Negroes were lower than
those of other workers in the industry. For all colored employees, the
average amounted to 52.4 cents, which may be compared with 62.9
cents for all other workers. Taking the two groups in which most of
the Negroes were found, the respective averages were 55.7 and 66.1
cents for semiskilled males and 49.5 and 54.6 cents for unskilled males.
Similarly, the proportion of colored workers earning under 40 cents
an hour exceeded that for other employees. For all wage earners, the
respective figures were 13.7 and 5.1 percent. There were 9.7 percent
of Negro semiskilled workers receiving less than 40 cents, which may
be compared with only 1.9 percent of other employees. For unskilled
workers, the figures were 13.8 percent for colored and 5.8 percent for
other employees.
Extra Rates for Overtime W ork

Extra rates were provided for overtime work in virtually all estab­
lishments covered in the survey. The practices followed by the
different plants, however, varied considerably. In the majority of
establishments, the practice conformed with the provisions of the
Fair Labor Standards Act, and time and one-half was provided for
all work in excess of 44 hours a week. In a substantial number of
plants, the extra rates, which were either time and one-half or time
and one-third, applied for all work in excess of 40 hours.
Thus far, the figures presented for the leather industry have been
based on regular rates only. A substantial number of employees in
the industry, however, worked overtime during the pay-roll period
covered by the survey, for which they were paid extra rates. The
latter no doubt increased considerably the hourly earnings of some
individual employees. On the other hand, if the earnings due to the
extra rates paid for overtime work are distributed among all workers
in the industry, the average is raised by orJy one-half of a cent.




36

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS,

LEATHER

IN D U S T R IE S

Comparisons W ith 1932 Survey
Prior to September 1939, the last survey of the leather industry
made by the Bureau was in the spring of 1932. With respect to
product and geographical distribution, the 1932 survey is fairly similar
to that in 1939, which makes it possible to compare the hourly earnings
between the 2 years. It should be remembered, however, that in the
leather industry the low point of the depression was reached in 1932.19
As against 62.3 cents in 1939, the average hourly earnings of all
workers in 1932 amounted to 47.0 cents, representing a gain of 32.6 per­
cent. (See table 16.) In 1932, 3.4 percent of the workers received less
than 25 cents, but hardly any of the wage earners were found below
this level in 1939. Taking 40 cents as the upper limit, 35.6 percent
were paid under that amount in 1932, compared with only 5.8 percent
in 1939. On the other hand, only 0.5 percent earned $1 and over in
1932, as against 4.2 percent in 1939.
In 1932, the average hourly earnings amounted to 49.3 cents for
males and 30.3 cents for females. The respective figures in 1939 were
63.8 and 44.5 cents.
T able

16. — Percentage distribution o f leather workers by average hourly earnings,
1932 and 1939

Average hourly earnings

1932 survey

Under 20.0 cents.
20.0 and under 25.0 cents. ______________________________ _____ ____
25.0 and under 27.5 cents. ._ ________ ... ______________________ ___
27.5 and under 30.0 cents. ___ ______________ __________________ ...
30.0 and under 32.5 cents. ___________________________________________
32.5 and under 35.0 cents. -------------------------------------------------------------------35.0 and under 37.5 cents. . _____ _____ _____________ .. ... _______
37.5 and under 40.0 cents. ______ ______________________ __________
40.0and under 42.5 cents. ... ____ . ____ ______________________ ..
42.5 and under 47.5 cents.. . ._ . ______________________________________
47.5 and under 100.0 cents. _ ----------------------------- --------------------------------100.0 cents and over. ____ . ----------------------------------- ------------------------Total
. . _____ _ _ -- - - - - _________
Average hourly earnings_______________________________________________
1 Less

0. 7
2.7
3.6
4. 2
6.5
4.4
7.7
5.8
8.8
13. 6
41.5
.5

100.0
$0. 470

1939 survey
0) 0.9
.3
.7
.8
1.9
1.2
5.5
7.4
77.1
4.2
100. 0
$0. 623

than Ho of 1 percent.

W eekly Hours and Earnings
Full-Tim e W eekly Hours

About two-thirds of the establishments in the leather industry were
operating on an 8-hour day and 40-hour week schedule in September
1939. A substantial number of plants, however, had a full-time work­
week of 44 hours. Very few establishments deviated from either the
40- or 44-hour week.
19 The 1932 hourly earnings include earnings due to extra rates paid for overtime work, although extra
overtime rates were not so prevalent at that time. Moreover, due to the depression, there was actually
very little overtime worked in 1932.







P l a t e 5 .—S e t t e r s - O u t , m a c h i n e .




P l a t e 6.—E m b o s s i n g - P r e s s O p e r a t o r s .

W EEKLY HOURS AND EARNINGS

37

It should be noted that the full-time hours indicated above are those
that applied to the majority of employees in a given plant. Mainte­
nance, powerhouse, and service workers frequently had different
scheduled hours from those of the main body of wage earners.

Actual Weekly Hours
For all wage earners, the actual weekly hours worked in the leather
industry averaged 39.1 in September 1939. According to the dis­
tribution in table 17, three-tenths (30.2 percent) of the total labor
force worked less than 40 hours during the week scheduled, most of
these employees being on short time due to absence from work, labor
turnover, and other causes. There were 36.1 percent working exactly
40 hours, 11.9 percent over 40 and under 44 hours, and 11.6 percent
exactly 44 hours. One-tenth (10.2 percent) worked in excess of 44
hours.
Weekly hours were longer for males than females, the respective
averages being 39.2 and 37.4. Skilled males worked longer than semi­
skilled and unskilled males, the skilled group averaging 40.5 and the
unskilled approximately 39 hours.
The average weekly hours varied little geographically, the averages
for all workers amounting to 39.1 in the Northern and 39.5 in the
Southern States. In the Northern States, the averages were 38.7
in the New England and Middle Atlantic States, as compared with
39.8 in Middle Western States, including California.

T able

17 . — P ercentage d istribu tion o f leather w ork ersy 1 b y actual w eek ly h ou rs ,
sex , and sk ill , S ep tem ber 1 9 8 9

Weekly hours
Under 24 hours. __________
24 and under 32 hours_______
32 and under 36 hours_______
36 and under 40 hours_______
Exactly 40 hours.. ______
Over 40 and under 44 hours...
Exactly 44 hours___
Over 44 and under 48 hours ...
48 and under 52 hours_______
52 and under 56 hours ____
56 hours and over________
Total________________
Average weekly hours ---------

All
workers
4.4
6.1
10.1
9.6
36.1
11.9
11.6
4.0
2.7
1.4
2.1
100.0
39.1

Males
Total
4.3
5.9
10.2
9.3
35.5
12.3
12.0
3.9
2.8
1. 5
2.3
100.0
39.2

Skilled
1.9
4.0
7.4
7.3
40.5
8.7
17.9
4.6
3.9
1.8
2.0
100.0
40.5

Semiskilled Unskilled
4.3
6.4
11.4
10.5
33.4
12.5
11.2
3.9
2.5
1.5
2.4
100.0
39.0

5.3
5.8
9.2
8. 2
36.7
13.5
10.8
3.7
2.8
1.5
2.5
100.0
39.1

Females
5.9
8.1
9.1
12.0
43.6
8.5
6.3
4.8
1.6
.1
100.0
37.4

1 Exclusive of 232 workers for whom hours were not reported.

Weekly Earnings
Average weekly earnings of all workers in the leather industry, ex­
clusive of earnings due to the extra rates for overtime work,20amounted

20 If the earnings due to the extra rates for overtime work were included, it would increase the average
weekly earnings of all workers in the industry by only 20 cents.




EARNINGS AND HOURS, LEATHER INDUSTRIES

38

to $24.42 in September 1939. Like hourly earnings, however, weekly
earnings varied conspicuously among the different skill-sex groups.
For male employees, the averages were $31.33 for skilled, $25.62 for
semiskilled, and $21.18 for unskilled workers. The weekly earnings
of all male workers averaged $25.14, compared with only $16.64 for
female employees.
Looking at the distribution of individual weekly earnings for all
workers, which is shown in table 18, over one-half (51.5 percent) re­
ceived $20 and under $30 and over four-fifths (81.6 percent) earned
$15 and under $35. Approximately one-tenth (9.7 percent) re­
ceived under $15, but less than one-tenth (8.7 percent) were paid
$35 and over. The same table also shows the distributions for the
various skill-sex groups.
In the Northern States the average weekly earnings of all workers
were $24.82. The averages varied little among the several districts
in the Northern States, being, respectively, $25 for the New England,
$24.84 for the Middle Atlantic, and $24.67 for the Middle Western
States, including California. The weekly earnings in the Southern
States averaged only $18.20.

T able

18 . — Percentage distribution o f leather w ork ers , 1 by average w eek ly ea rn in g s,
s e x , and skill, S ep tem ber 1 9 3 9

Weekly earnings 2
Under $5__________ ______
$5 and under $10____
__
$10 and under $15_________ _
$15 and under $20_____ _____
$20 and under $25___________
$25 and under $30__________
$30 and under $35_______ ___
$35 and under $40___________
$40 and under $45___________
$45 and under $50___________
$50 and over___ . _ _____
Total_______ _______
Average weekly earnings____
1
2
3

All work­
ers
1.1
2.3
6.3
17.6
27.7
23.8
12.5
5.7
1.7
.7
.6
100.0
$24. 42

Males
Total
0.9
1.8
4.8
15.0
28.6
25.7
13. 7
6.2
1.8
.7
.8
100.0
$25.14

Skilled

Semiskilled Unskilled

0. 2
.9
1.4
5.2
10.7
26.9
23.3
18.0
7.3
2.6
3. 5
100.0
$31. 33

Exclusive of 232 workers for whom weekly earnings were not reported.
Excludes earnings at extra rates for overtime.
Less than Ho of 1 percent.




0.8
1.3
4.3
12.3
27.4
29.9
15.9
5.6
1.4
.6
.5
100.0
$25. 62

1.7
3.0
7.6
25.0
39.5
17.0
4.9
1.3
(3)
(3)

Females
2.2
7.6
21.6
44.3
20.2
3.6
.3
.1
.1

( 3)

100.0
$21.18

100.0
$16.64

Part II
Earnings and Hours in the
Leather Belting and Packing Industry




39




Description o f the Industry and Scope o f Survey
D efinition o f the Industry

The leather belting and packing industry, as defined by the Census
of Manufactures, embraces establishments engaged primarily in the
making of the following: Leather belting, chiefly for use in the trans­
mission of power; leather packing, such as cup, U-valve, oil-retainerseal, etc.; and “ textile leathers,” such as aprons, picker leathers, mill
strapping, etc.1
Taken as a whole, the industry is not large. In 1937, the latest year
for which figures are available, the number of belting and packing
establishments totaled 182.2 During the year, these plants employed
an average of 2,829 wage earners, and their total wage bill amounted
to $3,354,946.
Characteristics o f the Industry

Not only is the leather belting and packing industry comparatively
small, but, as a rule, its operations are carried on in very small estab­
lishments. Only about 15 to 16 wage earners were employed by the
average leather belting and packing plant, according to the Census
of Manufactures in 1937. Of the total number of establishments,
4 reported no wage earners, 110 between 1 and 5, 41 between 6 and 20,
17 between 21 and 50, 5 between 51 and 100, and only 5 over 100 wage
earners. Owing largely to the small size of the plants, owner-manage­
ment generally prevails in the industry.
Geographically, the industry is widely scattered. In 1937, approxi­
mately two-fifths of its plants with over one-third of the wage earners
were found in three important industrial States, namely Massa­
chusetts, Pennsylvania, and New York. The remainder of the indus­
try, however, was broadly distributed over the country. In fact,
establishments were located in virtually all important geographical
areas.
Operations in the leather belting and packing industry are largely
free from seasonal fluctuations. In 1935, for example, employment
remained fairly steady throughout the year, according to the figures
of the Census of Manufactures. The same was true throughout the
greater part of 1937, although there was a decline in the fall of that
year as a result of the business depression.
1 The Census of Manufactures excludes from this industry leather belts for wear on the person and rubber
belting.

2Exclusive of plants w ith an annual production valued below $5,000.




41

42

E A R N IN G S

AND

HOURS, LEATH ER

IN D U S T R IE S

Since leather belting and packing is primarily for industrial uses,
employment in the industry is affected considerably by changes in
business conditions. This is shown by the radical decline in number
of wage earners and total wages in the industry during the depression
years of 1931 and 1933. (See table 19.)
T able

19.—

N u m b e r o f establishm ents , n u m ber o f wage ea rn ers , a nd w ages p a id in
the leather belting and packing in d u s tr y , 1 9 2 1 - 3 7 1
[Based on data from Census of Manufactures]

Number of
establish­
ments

Year

Number of
wage earners
(average for
the year)

Wages paid
(thousands
of dollars)

1921______________________________________________________________
1923_______________________________________________________________
1925______________________________________________________________
1927
_____
1929. .
_______________
_______________________

164
169
168
173
207

2,268
3,160
2, 644
2,164
2,602

$2,842
3,895
3,505
2,925
3, 550

1931_______________________________________________________________
1933
_
__________
1935
.
_____________________________________________
1937_______________________________________________________________

178
152
187
182

1,640
1, 684
2,362
2,829

1,968
1, 733
2, 520
3, 355

1 Includes only plants having an annual production valued at $5,000 or more.

In 1937, as reported by the Census of Manufacturers, the total
value of leather belting and packing amounted to $27,047,693. Flat
belting was valued at 50.2 percent of the total, with the value of other
leather belting (solid, twist, and built-up) amounting to 4.3 percent.
Leather packings (cup, U-valve, etc.), excluding washers, constituted
16.4 percent of the total value, while textile leathers amounted to 7.6
percent, thus leaving 21.5 percent to cover the value of other products.
Among other items were included belt lacings, oil seals, and grease
containers.
Scope o f the Survey

In general, the present survey conformed to the definition of the
leather belting and packing industry as stated by the Census of Manu­
factures.3 The survey covered all establishments in the industry ex­
cept those with less than 3 employees. Thus defined, the survey in­
cluded 108 plants with 1,956 wage earners.
The distribution of the coverage in the leather belting and packing
industry by States is shown in table 20.

Average H ourly Earnings
Methods o f Wage Payments

A large majority of the wage earners employed in the leather belt­
ing and packing industry are paid on a straight time-rate basis.
Indeed, this method of renumeration was followed exclusively in 89
3

Establishments that are primarily belt-repair shops were excluded from the survey.




A V E R AG E

HOURLY

43

E A R N IN G S

of the 108 establishments for which information was obtained. More­
over, even among the plants that paid straight piece/ rates, the ma­
jority of the wage earners were on a time-rate basis. Only 3 of the
establishments reported production-bonus systems of wage payment.
Of the total workers covered in the survey, 9.8 percent were paid on
a straight piece-work basis and 6.1 percent worked under productionbonus plans, thus leaving 84.1 percent paid on a straight time-rate
basis.
Extra rates for overtime work were general throughout the industry.
By far the great majority of the plants conformed strictly to the Fair
Labor Standards Act, thus paying time and one-half after 44 hours of
work per week, but a substantial number of establishments had a
more liberal provision for overtime. Most of these plants allowed
time and one-half after 40 hours of work. About one-fifth of the
plants also paid double time for work on Sundays and holidays.
T

able

2 0 .— Coverage o f su rvey in the leather belting and p a ckin g in d u s tr y , b y S ta tes ,
Sep tem ber 1 9 3 9

Number of
establish­
ments

State

United States__________________

____________ ___ _

__ _

California _ ______________________ _
.
Connecticut ____________ _____ ______
________________ ____ _
Illinois .
_ _ ________ _ _
. _________
________
Massachusetts._
_ ______________ __ . __ _ _______
. .
M ic h ig a n .____ _____________________ . ______________________ _.
Missouri.
_ .
_____________ . . .
New Jersey
______ . . .
._ _
__
New Y o r k __
._
_
.
_
North Carolina . . .
. ...
_
Ohio .

Workers
Number

Percentage

108

1,956

100.0

3
4

28
50
383
388

1.4
2. 6
19.6
19.8

100

6.1
2.3
1. 7
6.3
1. 6
2. 2
13.4
16.9
7.1

8
15
4

_
_____ __
__ . . .
__ _______ __ __
________
__ __

4
5
15
3

6

45
33
124
32
44

Pennsylvania _______
..
______
__
_______ __
_ _
__ ____ __ ____
Virginia
Other States L
_ _______ _________________ . . . ___ ___________

15
3
23

262
135
332

1 Includes 2 plants in Delaware, 2 in Georgia, 2 in Indiana, 2 in Louisiana, 2 in Maryland, 2 in Minnesota,
2in New Hampshire, 2 in Rhode Island, 2 in South Carolina, 2 in Tennessee. 2 in Texas, and 1 in Wisconsin.

During the pay-roll period scheduled, a- number of employees
worked overtime. If the earnings due to the extra rates allowed for
this overtime are considered, the average hourly earnings for all
workers in the industry are increased from 56.5 to 57.8 cents, a gain
of 1.3 cents. The subsequent analysis of both hourly and weekly
earnings is on the basis of regular rates only.
H ourly Earnings o f A ll W orkers

In September 1939, earnings of all workers in the belting and pack­
ing industry averaged 56.5 cents an hour. Individual hourly earn­
ings, however, varied widely, ranging from about 25 cents to above
$1, according to the distribution in table 21.




44

E A R N IN G S

AND

H OURS, LEATH ER

IN D U S T R IE S

Although the spread of individual earnings was wide, the hourly
earnings of a fairly large proportion of the labor force were restricted
to comparatively narrow limits. Almost one-third (31.8 percent)
of the wage earners were concentrated within the 15-cent range of
42.5 and under 57.5 cents. Moreover, the range for more than threefifths (63.4 percent) was between 40 and 72.5 cents.
Despite the concentration in the intermediate intervals, a relatively
substantial proportion of the leather belting and packing employees
were found in the lower-wage classes. Roughly, one out of every six
wage earners (17.3 percent) earned under 40 cents an hour, and 5.6
percent received less than 35 cents.
A substantial scattering of employees was also found in the higher
wage classes, with almost one-fifth (19.3 percent) of the total paid
72.5 cents an hour and over. There were 7.8 percent receiving 82.5
cents and over. The distribution, however, cuts off abruptly at
about 92.5 cents, and no more than 3.1 percent were at or above this
level.
Variations by Sex and Skill 4
As in the leather industry, women are a minor proportion of the
total labor force in leather belting and packing, amounting to 14.6
percent. The dominant groups are the skilled and semiskilled males;
each of these groups accounted for 38 percent of the total. Only
one-tenth (9.9 percent) of all workers were unskilled males.
Sharply contrasting levels of hourly earnings are shown for each of
these groups of employees in the industry. Compared with an average
of 68.2 cents an hour for skilled males, semiskilled males averaged 54.4
cents, and unskilled males had an average of 42.2 cents. The female
employees, most of whom are semiskilled workers, averaged 40.5 cents.
Hence, the extreme spread of hourly earnings among the several groups
amounted to 27.7 cents. The differences in these averages are re­
flected in the distributions of individual hourly earnings among the
various groups of workers.
Earnings of less than 40 cents are shown for only 2.8 percent of the
skilled males, but 12.7 percent of the semiskilled males, and 34.9 per­
cent of the unskilled were found below this level. Of the females,
55.1 percent received less than 40 cents. A substantial proportion
of the unskilled males (11.3 percent) and more than one-third of all
females received between 35.0 and 37.5 cents.
On the other hand, 64.4 percent of the skilled males were paid 62.5
cents an hour and over, which may be compared with 30.2 percent
of the semiskilled males. Only 1.5 percent of the unskilled males
and none of the females earned 67.5 cents and over.
4
The number of colored workers (1.5 percent) in the establishments covered was not sufficiently large
to justify separate treatment.




A V E R AG E
T able

21. —

HOURLY

45

E A R N IN G S

w ork ers , by

P ercen tage d istribu tion o f leather belting and p a ck in g
average h o u rly ea rn in g s , sex , and s&z'ZZ, S ep tem b er 1 9 3 9
Males

Average hourly earnings

All
workers

Females
Total

Skilled

Under 25.0 cents______________
Exactly 25.0 c e n ts____________
25.1 and under 27.5 c e n ts ____
27.5 and under 30.0 cents_____
30.0 and under 32.5 cents..........

0.1

2.2

0.1
1. 2
.2
.1
1.6

32.5 and under
35.0 and under
37.5 and under
40.0 and under
42.5 and under

1.6
8. 5

35.0 cents_____
37.5 cents_____
40.0 cents_____
42.5 cents___ __
47.5 cents_____

1.3
.2
.2

3. 2
7.0

Semi­
skilled

0. 5
.3
.4

.1
2.2

1.9
3.8

.8

2.0

.7

2.1
6.1

.8

4.9
2.7
8.7

0.1

10.0

9.4

2.3
4. 2

12.1

47.5 and under 52.5 cents___ __
52.5 and under 57.5 cents.. . . .
57.5 and under 62.5 cents______
62.5 and under 67.5 c e n ts ____
67.5 and under 72.5 c e n ts _____

10.6
11. 2

10.7
12. 2
8.4
9.8
9.8

5.4
11.7
9. 2
11.9
13.9

12.9
14.3
9. 1
10.3
7.7

72.5 and under 77.5 cents_____
77.5 and under 82.5 cents ___
82.5 and under 87.5 cents._ . . .
87.5 and under 92.5 c e n t s .___
92.5 and under 100.0 cents____

6.4
5. 1

7. 5
5.9
3.1
2. 5

11.8

.7

.8

1.8

5.3
3. 5
2.7
.5
. 1

100.0 and under 110.0 cents___

1. 5
.7
.5
.1

3.2
1. 5
.1
.1

.1

110.0 and under 125.0 cents___
125.0 and under 150.0 cents___
150.0 cents and o v e r............... _

1.3
.6
.4
.1

7.8
8. 5
8.3

2.6
2.1

9.9
4. 2
5.0

U n­
skilled

1. 0
8.2

2.1

.5
4.1

.7
5.6

19.2

.4
36.5
9.8
12.3
13.3

23.3
7. 2
3.1

9.8
4. 2
4 .2

5.2
11.3
4.6

10.8

1.1
1.5

1

Total_____________ _____ _

100.0

100.0

100.0

100. 0

100.0

Number of workers. _________

1,956

1,671

739

738

194

285

Average hourly earnings______

$0. 565

$0. 592

$0,682

$0. 544

$0,422

$0.405

100.0

Geographical Differences
In analyzing the data on a geographical basis, the same break-down
was used in leather belting and packing as in the leather industry,
which consisted of the New England, Middle Atlantic, Middle Western
(including California), and Southern States.
The Southern States covered by the survey in this industry included
Maryland, Virginia, Tennessee, North Carolina, South Carolina,
Georgia, Louisiana, and Texas. Altogether, these States employed
only about one-eighth of the total workers in the industry. Generally
speaking, hourly earnings were lower here than in other parts of the
country. According to table 22, all but one of the southern establish­
ments averaged below 60 cents, while two-thirds of the northern plants
showed averages above that figure. This does not mean, however,
that the low-wage establishments were all located in the South. As
a matter of fact, there were as many establishments averaging less
than 45 cents in the North as in the South.
Since there were no female workers found in the southern establish­
ments, any comparison between the northern and southern regions
should be confined to male employees. For all males, the average




46

E A R N IN G S

AND

H OURS, LEATH ER

IN D U S T R IE S

hourly earnings were 62.1 cents in the Northern and 43.9 cents in the
Southern States, a difference of 18.2 cents. Comparing the distribu­
tions, which are shown in table 23, there were only 5.1 percent paid
under 40 cents an hour in the North, as against 44.6 percent in the
South. On the other hand, the number receiving 72.5 cents and over
amounted, respectively, to 26.0 and 3.2 percent.
T able

2 2 . — D istr ib u tio n o f leather belting and 'packing p la n ts, b y average h o u rly

ea rn in gs and b y districts, S ep tem ber 1 9 3 9
Northern States

Average hourly earnings

United
States

New
England
States

Total

1

Middle
Western
States, in­
cluding
California

Middle
Atlantic
States

2
1

1
1
2

7
5

4

10
13
13

7
9
9

3
4

cents_________
cents__ __ .
c e n t s __
cents. _
cents............

20
12
8

19

5

7

12
8

2
2

6

7
4

9
7

9
7

3

5
3
4

3
3

85 and under 90 cents . _ _____
90 and under 95 cents

2
2

2
2

1

1

Total____________________

108

90

23

37

35 and
40 and
45 and
50 and
55 and

under 40 cents_________
under 45 cents _
under 50 cents. _ ______
under 55 cents. . .
under 60 cents_________

60 and
65 and
70 and
75 and
80 and

under
under
under
under
under

65
70
75
80
85

2

2

3
3

2

3
3

Southern
States

3
3
3
4
4

1

1

2
30

18

The New England States covered in the survey included New
Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island. The
Middle Atlantic States comprised New York, New Jersey, Pennsyl­
vania, and Delaware. The Middle Western States included Ohio,
Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Missouri.
In tabulations, it has been necessary to include California with this
group. A substantial portion of the industry was found in each of
these groups of States. Of the total employees, there were 30.3
percent in the New England, 24.5 percent in the Middle Atlantic, and
32.6 percent in the Middle Western States, including California.




AV E R AG E

T able 23.—

HOURLY

47

E A R N IN G S

P ercentage d istribution o f leather belting and p a ckin g w orkers, b y average
h ou rly ea rn in gs, region , sex, and skill, S ep tem ber 1 9 3 9
Northern States

Average hourly earnings

Under 25.0 cents
Exactly 25.0 cents
25.1 and under 27.5 cents
27.5 and under 30.0 cents
30.0 and under 32.5 cents_____
32.5 and
35.0 and
37.5 and
40.0 and
42.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5
47.5

cents
cents
cents
cents_____
cents_____

47.5 and
52.5 and
57.5 and
62.5 and
67.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5
72.5

cents_____
cents_____
cents,. __
cents
cents_____

72.5 and
77.5 and
82.5 and
87.5 and
92.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

77.5 cents
82.5 cents
87.5 cents
,
92.5 cents,. . . .
100.0 cents

100.0 and under 110.0 cents
110.0 and under 125.0 cents. . _
125.0 and under 150.0 cents .
150.0 cents and over___________
T o ta l................... . . .
Num ber of workers.

___ . . .

Average hourly earnings_____

Males
All
workers

0.1
1.1
.2
.1
1.8
.2
7. 6
2. 5
6.5
9.6

10.6
11.2
8.4
9. 2
9.3
7.3
5. 5
3.0
2.4
.7

Total

Semi­
skilled

Skilled

Females
Unskilled

0.6

0.1
.8
.2
1.0
.1
1.8
1.1

5.4

0.3

.8

4.2

1.6
1.1

1. 3
8. 1
11.3

9.6
4. 2
11.4
22.4

.4
36.5
9.8
12.3
13.3
9.8
4.2
4.2

.6
1.2

5.3

8.8
10.8
12.6

3.0

10.8

13.1
16.0

9.2
12.4
15.4

10.8

27.2
7.8
3.6

12. 3
9.2

1.8

4.4

9.3
10. 9

11.2
8.8
6.6

13.4

.7
5.6

1.1

6.3
4.2
3.2

10.6
4.9
5.8
1.7

3.6
2.9

2.1

0. 5
.3

.6
.2
.2

100.0

.8
1.8
.8
.6
.1
100.0

.2
100.0

100.0

100.0

1,709

1,424

639

619

166

285

$0. 585

$0. 621

$0. 712

$0. 575

$0. 438

$0. 405

1.5

.6
.5
.1

3.8
1.7
1.3

100.0

Southern States
Males

Average hourly earnings
All
workers

Females
Total

Under 25.0 cents_____ ________
Exactly 25.0 cents
25.1 and under 27.5 cents.. _
27.5 and under 30.0 cents___ __
30.0 and under 32.5 cents . . .

Skilled

0. 4
3.2

0.4
3.2

.8

.8

5.3

5.3

Semi­
skilled

0.8
1.0
1.0

.8
9.2

32.5 and
35.0 and
37.5 and
40.0 and
42.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5
47.5

cents
cents,. .
cents. _
c e n ts___
cents___ __

11.7
15.1

11.7
15.1

6.0

12.6

5.0

21.9

8.1

8.1

10. 5
12. 7

10. 5
12. 7

6.0
10.0
12.0

10.1
11.8
16.0

47.5 and
52.5 and
57.5 and
62.5 and
67.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5
72.5

cents_____
cents_____
cents
cents.
cents...........

10.5
9.7
3.6
3. 6

10.5
9.7
3. 6
3.6

12.0

11.8

17. 0
9. 0
9.0
4.0

5.0

72.5 and
77.5 and
82.5 and
87.5 and
92.5 and

under 77.5 cents_____
under 82.5 c e n ts ____
under 87.5 cents
under 92.5 cents_____
under 100.0 cents

1.6

Unskilled i

1.6

1.0

.4

.4

2.0

2.0

5.0

.8

.8

2.0

100.0 and under 110.0 cents,,
110.0 and under 125.0 cents___
125.0 and under 150.0 cents
150.0 cents and over_____ _____

100.0

Total____________________

100.0

100.0

100.0

Number of workers___________

247

247

100

119

28

Average hourly earnings______

$0. 439

$0. 439

$0. 511

$0. 399

$0. 324

i N ot a sufficient number of workers to show a distribution.




48

E A R N IN G S

AND

H OURS, LEATH ER

IN D U S T R IE S

Although a majority of the establishments in the New England,
Middle Atlantic, and Middle Western States (including California)
averaged above 60 cents an hour, there were a substantial number of
plants in each of these districts with averages between 35 and 60 cents,
which is the range covered by virtually all of the southern establish­
ments. For all workers, the average hourly earnings amounted to
62.5 cents for the Middle Atlantic, 60.0 cents for the New England,
and 54.3 cents for the Middle Western States, including California.
Taking 40 cents as the limit, the number of employees earning under
that figure was 7.7 percent in the Middle Atlantic and 10.9 percent
in the New England States, which may be compared with 20.3 percent
in the Middle Western States, including California. For the most
part, the lower-paid workers in the Middle Western district were
found in Illinois and Missouri. Each district showed a substantial
number of employees in the higher-wage classes, namely, above 72.5
cents, the figures being 28.2 percent in the Middle Atlantic, 21.5 per­
cent in the New England, and 16.2 percent in the Middle Western
States, including California. (See table 24.)
T a b l e 2 4 . — P ercentage d istribu tion o f leather belting a nd p a ckin g w ork ers , b y average
h o u rly ea rn in g s, sex , and district, Sep tem ber 1 9 3 9

0.2

Under 2/5.0 cents
Exactly 25.0 cents
25.1 and under 27.5 cents
27.5 and under 30.0 cents,_
30.0 and under 32.5 cents..

1. 9

1. 3

.2
2.2

.6
.2
.8

32.5 and
35.0 and
37.5 and
40.0 and
42.5 and

.3
3.9
2.4
5.1
5.2

under
under
under
under
under

35.0 cents..
37.5 cents..
40.0 cents. .
42.5 cents..
47.5 cents..

0. 2

.8
5.3

2.7
1.7
6. 1
9.2

14.8
3.3
8. 2
13.9

11. 7
15. 1
8. 1
10. 5
12.7

10. 5

13.7

10.2

9. 6
9.9
7.8
7.8
6. 3

47.5 and
52.5 and
57.5 and
62.5 and
67.5 and

under
under
under
under
under

cents..
cents..
cents..
cents..
cents. _

72.5 and
77.5 and
82.5 and
87.5 and
92.5 and

under 77.5 cents..
under 82.5 cents..
under 87.5 cents..
under 92.5 cents..
under 100.0 cents.

8.4
4.6
3. 5
2. 5
.5

9. 8
7. 9
3. 5
2. 7
1. 0

4. 4
4. 5
2. 0
2. 0

100.0 and under 110.0 cents.

1. 0
.7

1. 9
.6
.6
.2

1. 6
.6

110.0 and under 125.0 cents.
125.0 and under 150.0 cents.
150 0 cents and over
T o ta l_______________
Number of workers_______

10.0
11. 0
10. 6

.3

7.3
9.0
11. 8

.6

1.1

0. 2
1.1

0. 2

0.4
3. 2

.5

5.3

479

.7

.4

1.1
1.1

3.7
3.4

5.4
8.3

10. 5
9. 7
3.6
3.6
1. 6

12. 0

9. 5
12. 0

11.0
12. 1
11. 8

10. 7
10. 7
7.6
9.6
12. 4

10. 7
9.1

10. 5
9.7
3.6
3.6
1. 6

.4

9. 3
5. 0
3. 9
2. 8

10. 5
8. 5
3. 8
2. 9

6. 3
6. 6

2. 0

.6

1.1

2. 9
2. 9
.9

.8

1.1
.7

2. 0

2. 0
.8

15. 1

.4

.7
.7

1.4
.9
7.3
16.1

8.8

5.6

—

—

11.7
15.1

2.8
1.1

.5

638

—

44.7

8.1
10.5
12. 7

8.6
10.2
—

9.1 —

—

9.6
5.1
5.6 ________
1.5 ______

.4

2. 3
.9
.7

.2

247

535

448

441

247

________ ________

57

31

100.0

1 N ot a sufficient number of workers to show a distribution.

—

197

Average hourly earnings.. $0. 600 $0. 625 $0. 543 $0. 439 $0. 621 $0. 639 $0. 603 $0.439 $0. 395 $0. 397 $0. 409




Southern States

Middle Western
States, includ­
ing California

.8
1.7

100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
592

Middle Atlantic
States 1

New England
States 1

j

2.0

12. 0

52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5
72.5

0.4
3. 2

.7

.2

Southern States

Middle Western
States, includ­
ing California

New England
States

Females

1

Middle Atlantic
States

Males
| Southern States

Middle Western
States, includ­
ing California

Middle Atlantic
States

Average hourly earnings

New England
States

A ll workers

—

AV E R AG E

HOURLY

E A R N IN G S

49

The N. R. A. code for the leather industry also included leather
belting and packing, with the same minimum wages per hour applying
to both industries, which were 32.5 cents for all workers in the Southern
States and 35.0 cents for females and 40 cents for males in the Northern
States. At the time of the survey (September 1939), there were 5.1
percent of the males earning under 40 cents an hour and 8.8 percent
of the females paid below 35 cents in the Northern States. Moreover,
as many as 36.5 percent of the females received between 35.0 and 37.5
cents, about one-third being paid exactly 35 cents, which is probably
traceable to the influence of the code minimum. In the Southern
States, 9.7 percent of the workers were paid less than 32.5 cents.
H ou rly Earnings in R elation to Fair Labor Standards A ct

As pointed out previously, the 25-cent hourly minimum was in
effect during the period covered by the survey. Very few workers in
the leather belting and packing industry were being paid below this
minimum. Also, there were few wdio were paid exactly 25 cents, the
figure amounting to only 1.1 percent in the Northern and 3.2 percent
in the Southern States.
Only 1.8 percent of all employees in the industry received less than
30 cents an hour, or the minimum under the Fair Labor Standards
Act shortly after the survey was made. The figure was 1.5 percent
in the Northern States, as compared with 4.4 percent in the Southern
States. In other words, the wage structure of the industry as a whole
evidently did not have to be readjusted radically to conform to the
new minimum.
Neither was the proportion of workers in the industry paid under 35
cents an hour very large. For the country as a whole, the figure
amounted to 5.6 percent. It was only 3.5 percent in the Northern
States, and 21.4 percent in the Southern States.
On the other hand, a substantial number of employees in the
industry received less than 40 cents an hour. For the industry as a
whole, 17.3 percent of the wage earners were found below this level.
Below the 40 cent level were found 2.8 percent of the skilled males,
12.7 percent of the semiskilled, and 34.9 percent of the unskilled.
By contrast 55.1 percent of the females received less than 40 cents.
On a geographical basis, the proportions were 7.7 percent in the Middle
Atlantic, 10.9 percent in the New England, 20.3 percent in the Middle
Western (including California), and 44.6 percent in the Southern States.
Table 25 presents the distribution of workers by groups of plants
classified according to average hourly earnings. It shows that the only
establishments in which a substantial proportion (11.9 percent) of
employees earned under 30 cents were those that averaged between
35 and 40 cents. Likewise, they were the only plants that had a




50

E A R N IN G S

AND

H OU RS, LE ATH E R

IN D U S T R IE S

considerable proportion of workers paid below 35 cents, the figure
amounting to 39.3 percent. These establishments were scattered
widely geographically.
In the plants averaging between 35 and 40 cents an hour, 67.1 per­
cent of the employees were paid under 40 cents, compared with 40.0
percent in those with averages between 40 and 45 cents, 29.2 percent
in those averaging between 45 and 50 cents, and 13.5 percent in those
with averages between 50 and 55 cents. The other groups of plants,
containing about two-thirds of all establishments, had few workers
earning less than 40 cents.
T a b l e 2 5 . — S im p le percentage distribu tion

o f leather belting a nd p a ckin g w ork ers,
b y average h o u rly earnings and by gro u p s o f p la n ts , S ep tem ber 1 9 3 9
Plants having average hourly earnings of—

Average hourly earnings

Total

Under 25.0 c e n ts __
Exactly 25. 0 cents
25.1 and under 27.5 cents___
27. 5 and under 30.0 cents___
30.0 and under 32.5 cents___

0.1
.2
.2
2.2

32.5
35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5

and
and
and
and
and

under
under
under
under
under

1.6
8. 5

47.5
52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5

and
and
and
and
and

under 52.5 cents.___
under 57.5 centS-_ _.
under 62.5 cents___
under 67.5 cents___
under 72.5 cents-----

10.6
11.2

72.5 and under 77.5 cents___
77 5 and under 82.5 cents
82.5 and under 87.5 cents.___
87.5 and under 92.5 c e n ts__
92. 5 and under 100.0 cents. _

6.4
5. 1

35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5
47.5

cents___
cents___
cents___
cents___
cents___

1.3

3.2
7.0

10.0

7.8
8. 5
8.3

35 and 40 and 45 and 50 and 55 and 60 and 65 and 70 cents
under
under
under
under under
under
under
and
40 cents 45 cents 50 cents 55 cents 60 cents 65 cents 70 cents over

1.0
2.0

1.2

0. 5
.5

0.9

11.9

3.0

.6

5.3

.4

0.4

15.5
19.6

2.0
27.0
5.0
19.0
19.0

22.4
5.0
9.4
25.9

4.3
2.9

1. 7

2.2

10.6
8.2

5. 7
9.1

2.3
2. 5
5.3
4. 1

3.6

2.4

8.0
2.0

11.2
6. 5

4.0
4.0

5.3
3.5
2.7

15. 5
22.7
8.7
8.7
2.4

15.8
24.9
10. 4
5.2
10.4

12. 3
11.4
12. 1
15. 8
13. 5

9. 5
7. 7
10. 7
15.5
12.5

4.3
4.3
1.4
6.3
15.1

2.9
3.9
2.4

8.2

9. 5
14. 3
6. 5
2. 4

20.9
13. 0
7.7
7. 2
1.9

8.8
1.0
2.1

8.2
10.3
9.3
3.1
4. 6
3. 1

1.0
1.0

0.6

2.0

2.4

075
.5

.6
1.2

1.0

.7

.9
.3

4.3
3.9
1.3
3.0
.4

1.0

1.8

100.0 and under 110.0 cents..

1.3

.9

.4

110.0 and under 125.0 cents. _
125.0 and under 150.0 cents. _
150.0 cents and over .

.4
.4

.4
.1

.6

2.4
1. 2

7. 2
2. 9
2.9
.5

.5

1.0
1.0

2.6
2.1

.6

.6
.6

.5

5. 5
2.5
2. 3

Total___________ _ . . .

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

Number of workers.
Number of plants-----------------

1, 956
108

194
7

100

339

168

10

230
13

511

5

207
13

20

12

207
28

Variations by Size o f C om m u nity5 and Unionization

As in the leather industry, plants making leather belting and packing
are, for the most part, located in large industrial centers. Of the
total employees in the industry, as many as 44.4 percent were found
in metropolitan areas with a population of 1,000,000 and over, and
one-fourth (24.4 percent) were located in communities between 250,000
and 1,000,000. There were 13.6 percent in places between 50,000
5 See page 25.




W EEKLY

HOURS

AND

E A R N IN G S

51

and 250,000, and 17.6 percent were found in towns between 5,000 and
50.000.
Due to the fact that the coverage in the Southern States is relatively
small, any analysis of hourly earnings by size of community in this
industry must be confined to the northern region. For all workers,
average hourly earnings in this area amounted to 51.7 cents in towns
with a population between 5,000 and 50,000, 55.8 cents in places
between 50,000 and 250,000, 63.9 cents in communities between
250,000 and 1,000,000, and 58.1 cents in metropolitan areas with
1.000. 000 and over.
Unionization6 has not made much headway in the leather belting
and packing industry. Of the 108 establishments covered in the sur­
vey, only 4 were operating under union agreements. These plants
were all located in metropolitan areas with a population of 1,000,000
and over in the Northern States. With one exception, they averaged
over 65 cents, which places them in the upper half of the distribution
of establishments by average hourly earnings.
Despite the fact that all of the union plants were located in metro­
politan areas with a population of 1,000,000 and over, the average
hourly earnings here were lower than those found in communities
between 250,000 and 1,000,000. This is due to the fact that the pro­
portion of employees working in leather-packing establishments,
which generally had a lower wage level than plants making other
products, was higher in metropolitan areas of 1,000,000 and over as
compared with other classes of communities.
Product Differences

For all wage earners, the average hourly earnings amounted to 58.1
cents in plants making primarily leather belting, 52.6 cents in those
engaged principally in making leather packing, and 58.2 cents in
establishments producing other products that come within the defini­
tion of the industry.
The chief reason for the higher wage level in leather belting is the
fact that the plants engaged chiefly in making this product employed
relatively few women, namely, 2.3 percent of the total labor force.
On the other hand, a number of establishments manufacturing leather
belting are located in the Southern States where the wage level in
this branch of the industry is lower. In fact, the Southern States
accounted for 20.9 percent of the total workers in leather-belting
plants. There were no females employed in the Southern States, so
that the wage comparison must be confined to male employees. For
all males, the average hourly earnings amounted to 63.2 cents in the
Northern States 7 as against 43.0 cents in the Southern States.
6 See page 24.
7 The few females in the Northern States averaged 36.4 cents.




52

E A R R IN G S

AND

H OURS, LEATH ER

IN D U S T R IE S

Virtually all establishments (with 98.6 percent of the total workers)
engaged largely in the production of leather packing are located in
the Northern States. On the other hand, a substantial proportion of
the labor force, namely, 37.3 percent, consisted of women, which is
responsible for the lower wage level found in this branch of the
industry. The average hourly earnings of males in leather-packing
plants in the Northern States amounted to 59.4 cents, as compared
with 41.0 cents for females.
Of the total wage earners employed in establishments engaged
principally in making products other than leather belting and packing,
only 8.2 percent were found in the Southern States. Moreover, only
12.8 percent of the labor force in these plants consisted of women.
In the Northern States, the average hourly earnings were 62.5 cents
for males and 39.8 cents for females. The small number of males
found in the Southern States averaged 46.8 cents.
T a b l e 26.—

S im p le percentage distribu tion o f leather belting' a nd p a ck in g w o rk ers ,
b y average h o u rly earnings a nd b y prod u ct , S ep tem ber 1 9 3 9
Belting 1

Average hourly earnings

All
workers

United
States

Under 25.0 cents___ __ _______
Exactly 25.0 cents____________
25.1 and under 27.5 cents.
27.5 and under 30.0 cents.
30.0 and under 32.5 cents. _ . .

0.1

0.1

1.3

1.4
.3
.3
2.3

32.5
35.0
37.5
40.0
42.5

and
and
and
and
and

under 35.0
under 37.5
under 40.0
under 42.5
under 47.5

cents.
cents_____
cents
cents_____
cents.
..

1.6

47.5
52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5

and
and
and
and
and

under
under
under
under
under

cents.
cents_____
cents_____
cents.
cents.

10.6
11.2

72.5 and under 77.5 cents _
77.5 and under 82.5 cents. _ .
82.5 and under 87.5 cents.
87.5 and under 92.5 cents.
92.5 and under 100.0 cents____

6.4
5.1

52.5
57.5
62.5
67.5
72.5

.2
.2
2.2

8.5
3.2
7.0

10.0

7.8
8.5
8.3

3.0
4.9
3.6
6.9
7.4

10.8
12.9
7.1

8.1

South­
ern
States

0.1
.8

3.9

1.4

0.6

2.9

0.2
1.0

.2
1.6

1.1

.5
2.4

2.7

.1

1.0

1.5

5.4

2.1
2.3

14.1
15.6
8.3

6.0

10.2

6.3

11.7

10.9
14.0

10.2
8.8

8.2

2.6
2.1

7.2
5.7
3.1
3.0

9.0
6.7
3.9
3.7

.7

.6

.6

100.0 and under 110.0 cents___

1.3

.6

2.6

110.0 and under 125.0 cents___
125.0 and under 150.0 cents___
150.0 cents and over..... ........... ..

2.0
1.0

.4

.5

.1

.1

.6
.1

100.0

100.0

100.0

1,956
$0.565

983
$0. 581

778
$0. 625

1 Includes
2 Includes
3 Includes

2.9
2.9

Males

Females

.5
16.5
3.0
7.0
16.1

.6
2.0

.5
40.6

4.6
18.0

12.9

6.5
2. 7
7.3
7.7

11.2

12.5

8.9
7.3

11.1

9.1
5.3
5.3
1.4

10.2
12.1

6.6

8.5
9.7
8.5

8.1
11.0

9.4
9.9

2.0

5.4

.5

4.3
3.9
2.7

6.8

1.2

.7
.9

2.0
1.1

.2

1.4
.3

.4

.6

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

205
$0.430

560
$0. 526

351
$0.593

209
$0. 410

413
$0.582

2.0

.5

1.3

both male and female workers.
both the Northern and Southern States.
both males and females in the country as a whole.




Total

.4

9.5
9.3

Total___________________

Other 3

North­
ern
States

7.7

N um ber of workers.. ______
Average hourly earnings--------

Packing 2

13.8
7.5
5.1
1.5
1. 2

6.3
4.3

1.0

.2

W EEKLY

HOURS

AND

E A R N IN G S '

53

For male workers in the Northern States, the highest hourly earn­
ings are shown for leather belting and other products, with the lowest
for leather packing, the respective averages being 63.2, 62.5, and 59.4
cents. For females, the order was different, the average hourly earn­
ings amounting to 41.0 cents for leather packing, 39.8 cents for other
products, and 36.4 cents for leather belting. It must be remembered,
however, that the last two averages are based on relatively few em­
ployees. In the Southern States, where the comparison is confined
to males only, the averages were 57.1 cents for leather packing, 46.8
cents for other products, and 43.0 cents for belting.8
The distributions of individual hourly earnings by product are
presented in table 26.
Occupational Differences

The average hourly earnings for the various occupations in the
leather belting and packing industry for the country as a whole ap­
pear in table 27. By far the highest average, 82.6 cents, is shown for
working foremen. For the remaining occupational groups among
skilled males, the averages covered a narrow range— from 59.8 cents
to 67.3 cents. The lowest average was for pressmen. The important
occupation of all-around belt makers averaged 65.1 cents.
With two exceptions, the occupational averages among semiskilled
males covered a spread from 50 to 60 cents. These two exceptions
were shipping packers and picker-making workers, who averaged
47.8 and 45.7 cents, respectively. The occupations with averages of
approximately 59 to 60 cents were plant clerks, lathe cup-edge trimmers,
packing punch-press cutters, and scarfing-machine operators of belts
and aprons.
Among the unskilled males, the highest average hourly earnings
(47.1 cents) are shown for the few apprentices. The relatively few
learners had the lowest average, which was 37.0 cents. Practically
all of the other occupational groups averaged 41 cents.
The occupational averages of females ranged from 36.2 cents for
packers to 44.4 cents for cup-forming press operators. In four
occupations, figures are shown for both males and females, and in
each the females averaged considerably less than the males.
8 D ue to the sm all number of male em ployees, it is not possible to compare average hourly earnings in
each region among the various products on a skill basis.




54

EARNINGS AND HOURS, LEATHER INDUSTRIES

W eekly Hours and Earnings
Full-Tim e W eekly Hours

With very few exceptions, the full-time weekly hours in the leather
belting and packing industry amounted to 44 or less in September 1939.
Moreover, about one-half of the plants had a full-time workweek of
44 hours, with the great majority of the remainder operating under a
40-hour week.
As in the leather industry, employees in the maintenance, power
house, and service departments in many of the leather belting and
packing plants had scheduled hours that were different from those of
the majority of the wage earners.
Actual W eekly Hours

The average actual weekly hours worked by all wage earners in the
leather belting and packing industry amounted to 43.4 in September
1939. The male workers averaged 43.5 hours, as against 42.9 for
female employees. Among the males, the averages were 44.0 for
skilled, 43.1 for semiskilled, and 42.5 for unskilled workers, the aver­
ages thus declining with the degree of skill.
According to the distribution in table 28, one-fifth (20.3 percent)
of all wage earners worked exactly 40 hours during the pay-roll period
scheduled. Three-tenths (30.2 percent) worked exactly 44 hours,
which was the maximum under the Fair Labor Standards Act at the
time of the survey. There were 7.5 percent working over 40 and under
44 hours. One-eighth (12.3 percent) worked less than 40 hours, most
of these employees being on short time during the pay-roll period
scheduled, due to various causes. On the other hand, as many as threetenths (29.7 percent) worked over 44 hours, for which overtime work
at time and one-half was responsible in a number of cases.
The average weekly hours were considerably longer in the Southern
than in the Northern States, the respective figures amounting to 46.6
and 42.9 hours. In the northern region, the highest average, 44.3
hours, was found in the Middle Western States, including California,
which may be compared with 42.5 hours in the New England and 41.6
hours in the Middle Atlantic States.




55

W E EK LY HOURS AND EARNINGS

T able

27.— Average hourly earnings, w eekly hours, and w eekly earnings o f leather
belting and packing workers, by sex, skill, and occupation, Septem ber 1989

Sex, skill, and occupation

Number Average Average Average
of work­ hourly weekly weekly
ers
earnings hours earnings

All workers___________________________ __________________
M ales___________________________________ _______________
Skilled________________________ _____________________
Belt makers, all around_________________ _________
Cutters, belting strips______________________________
Foremen, working_________________________________
Pressmen, belts_______________________________ . .
Shaving machine operators, belting and packing. ____
Sorters and matchers, belting------ ------------------------Miscellaneous workers, maintenance, skilled_________
Miscellaneous workers, other, skilled_______ ______ Semiskilled _________________________________________
Clerks, plant____________________________________ Cup-edge trimmers, lathe___________________________
Cup-forming press operators. _____________________
Cutters, packing, punch press___________________ ...
Inspectors and testers, belts and packing_____________
Packers, shipping______ ____________________ ______
Picker-making workers, semiskilled____________ _____
Round-belt-making workers, semiskilled________ _
Scarfing machine operators, belts and aprons_________
Trimmers and polishers, belt edges_______________
Miscellaneous workers, maintenance, semiskilled_____
Miscellaneous workers, leather finishing, mach ine
Miscellaneous workers, other, semiskilled____________
Unskilled_______________________________ __________ _
Apprentices_______________________________________
Learners___________________________ _____ ________
Material handlers and general helpers_______
Watchmen._______________________ .. _____ .. ...
Miscellaneous workers, maintenance, unskilled----------Miscellaneous workers, other, unskilled______________
Females__________________________ ____ _______________
Cup-edge trimmers, lathe------------------------- ------- ..
Cup-forming press operators____ __________________ _
Cutters, packing, punch press--------------- ----------------Packers,shipping_________ __________________ ...
Sorters
... _________________ ______________ ..
Miscellaneous workers_________ _______ .. . _____

1, 956
1. 671
739
197
28
170
137
26
32
82
67
738
71
56
82
37
20
39
71
40
32
30
45
18
197
194
14
12
86
27
35
20
285
32
44
54
34
35
86

$0. 565
. 592
.682
.651
.652
.826
.598
.639
.616
.648
.673
.544
.600
.604
.565
.593
.563
.478
.457
.524
.595
.555
.504
.534
.536
.422
.471
.370
.412
.410
.461
.413
.405
.399
.444
.420
.362
.380
.407

43.4
43.5
44.0
44.9
44.3
44.3
42.9
41.6
45.2
45.7
41.5
43.1
43.3
42.7
41.5
46.3
43.6
43.4
41.8
43.8
43.7
44.6
45.2
38.3
43.2
42.5
42.9
36.8
40.9
50.4
43.2
40.6
42.9
46.4
42.9
42.4
44.0
45.4
40.4

$24. 51
25. 73
30.02
29. 22
28. 87
36. 59
25. 69
26. 60
27. 83
29. 59
27.94
23. 48
25.95
25. 78
23. 43
27.46
24.54
20. 73
19. 08
22. 93
26. 01
24. 76
22. 80
20. 46
23.15
17.96
20. 21
13. 59
16. 85
20. 65
19. 88
16. 76
17. 37
18. 50
19. 05
17.80
15. 92
17. 27
16. 42

W eekly Earnings

For all wage earners in the leather belting and packing industry, the
average weekly earnings in September 1939 amounted to $24.51.9 As
may be seen from table 29, 65.4 percent of the total earned between
$15 and $30 during the week scheduled. One-tenth (10.1 percent)
received less than $15. The remaining one-fourth (24.5 percent)
earned $30 and over, but only 4.7 percent were paid as much as $40.
As with hourly earnings, weekly earnings varied considerably among
the several skill-sex groups. Male employees averaged $25.73, as
compared with $17.37 for female workers. Among the males, the
averages amounted to $30.02 for skilled, $23.48 for semiskilled, and
$17.96 for unskilled employees.

0 If the earnings due to the extra rates for overtime work were included, it would increase the average
weekly earnings of all workers in the industry by 56 cents.




56

EARRINGS AND HOURS, LEATHER INDUSTRIES

The average weekly earnings amounted to $20.46 in the Southern
States. In the northern region, the average was $25.10, with rela­
tively little difference among the several districts. Thus, the weekly
earnings averaged $25.98 in the Middle Atlantic, $25.53 in the New
England, and $24.03 in the Middle Western States, including Cali­
fornia.
T a b l e 28. — Percentage distribution o f leather belting and packin g w orkers, by actual

w eekly hours, sex, and skill, Septem ber 1989

Weekly hours
Tinder 24 hours
24 and under 32 hours__________________
32 and under 36 hours . _ ___________
36 and under 40 hours. . _____________
Exactly 40 hours
. . ______
Over 40 and under 44 hours. _____ ..
Exactly 44 hours _.
...
Over 44 and under 48 hours. . _________
48 and under 52 hours .. _ _____________
____
52 and under 56 hours .
56 and under 60 hours .
60 hours and over______ _____________
Total__________________________ .

Average weekly hours___ ________ _.

All work­
ers
2. 5
3.7
2.7
3.4
20.3
7.5
30.2
11.6
7.4
6.2
1.5
3.0
100.0
43.4

Males
Total
2.4
4.0
2.6
2.5
20.2
8.6
33.2
6.8
7.1
7.3
1.8

3.5

100.0
43.5

Skilled

Semi­
skilled Unskilled
2.3
3.3
2.2
2.6
21.4
10.2
33.5
7.0
8.0
6.1
1.5

1. 5
4.5
2.7
2.3
18. 7
6.9
35.1
6.5
6.6
8.8
1.8
4.6
100.0
44.0

6.2
5.2
3.6
2.6
21.0
8.8
25.2
6.7
5.7
6.2
3.1
5.7
100.0
42.5

1.9

100.0
43.1

Females
2.9
1.8
1.8
3.2
9.1
21.0
1.4
12.3
39.5
8.8
100.0
42.9

T a b l e 29.— Percentage distribution o f leather belting and packing workers, by

average w eekly earnings, sex, and skill, Septem ber 1939

Weekly earnings 1
Under $5__________ ... _ ._ __________
$5 and under $10_______________________
$10 and under $15______________________
$15 and under $20.. ___________________
$20 and under $25______________________
$25 and under $30______________________
$30 and under $35______________________
$35 and under $40.._ __________________
$40 and under $45_____ _______________
$45 and under $50___________ ____ ______
$50 and under $55______________________
$55 and under $60.. ___________________
$60 and over__________________________
Total__________ _____ _ _________
Average weekly earnings................. ............

All
workers
0.6

1.7
7.8
22.8
22.5
20.1

14.2
5.6
2.3

1.2
.6

.3

.3

Total
0.6
1.4
6.2

16.8
22.9
23.4
16.7
6.6
2.7
1.4

Skilled
0.8
2.2

6.5
15.2
28.7
23.5
11. 5
5.4
3.2

.7

1.6

.3

.7

.3

Semi­
skilled
0.9
1.2
5.7
24.3
27.4
22.3
14.0
3.5
.7

Un­
skilled
2.1

4.6
23.7
27.9
34.0
6.7

1.0

Females
0.4
3.6
16.9
57.7
19.9
1.5

.7

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

100.0

$24. 51

$25. 73

$30.02

$23.48

$17.96

$17. 37

1 Excludes earnings at extra rates for overtime.




Males

O