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UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF LABOR
FRANCES PERKINS, Secretary

BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS
ISADOR LUBIN, Commissioner

BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES\
BUREAU OF LABOR ST A T IS TIC S ]
WAGES

AND

HOURS

OF

. . . .

LABOR

CQQ

lNOs DOO

SERIES

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR IN
THE DYEING AND FINISHING OF
TEXTILES, 1932

JULY 1933

UNITED STATES
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
WASHINGTON : 1933

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D.C,




Price 10 cents




Contents
Page

Average days, hours, and earnings, 1930 and 1932, by occupation_______
Average days, hours, and earnings, 1930 and 1932, by sex and State_____
Classified earnings per hour, 1930 and 1932_____________________________
Full-time hours per week and per day, 1930 and 1932___________________
Changes in full-time hours since May 1, 1930___________________________
Changes in wage rates since May 1, 1930_______________________________
Overtime, Sunday, and holiday work, 1932_____________________________
Bonus systems, 1932___________________________________________________
Index numbers of employment and of pay rolls, 1923 to 1932___________
Importance of the industry____________________________________________
Scope and method_____________________________________________________
Occupations----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------General tables_________________________________________________________
T a b l e A.— Average number of days on which wage earners worked,
average full-time and actual hours and earnings per week, average
earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by occu­
pation, sex, and State___________________________________________
T a b l e B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified
occupations, 1932, by sex and State_____________________________
T a b l e C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12
specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State____________________
T a b l e D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1 week
in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State_______________
T a b l e E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12
specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State____________________
A p p e n d ix . — Factory occupational terms, and definitions and classification
by Bureau of Labor Statistics— ____________________________________




ni

1
4
5
8
11
11
12
13
16
16
18
19
19

20
29
34
37
42
47




BULLETIN OF THE

U.S.BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS
n o . 588

WASHINGTON

j u l y 1933

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR IN THE DYEING AND FINISH­
ING OF TEXTILES, 1932
This bulletin presents the results of studies in 1930 and 1932 by
the United States Bureau of Labor Statistics of wages and hours of
labor of wage earners in the dyeing and finishing of textiles in the
United States.
The 1930 basic wage figures which were used in compiling this
report were collected by agents of the Bureau from the records of 109
representative dyeing and finishing plants in eight States for a pay
period in March, April, or May and covered 21,482 wage earners,
consisting of 17,739 males and 3,743 females. Figures for 1932 were
collected from the records of 93 plants in the same States as in 1930,
for a pay period in January, February, or March, and covered 19,246
wage earners, including 16,205 males and 3,041 females. The work
of a vast majority of the plants included in the report consisted
mainly in the dyeing and finishing of cotton goods. In a few plants
cloth made of mixtures of cotton, rayon, and silk was dyed and
finished.
The 1932 wage figures in the tables of this bulletin cover the wage
earners of the dyeing and finishing department of 17 cotton mills
that produce, dye, and finish cotton goods and for 76 plants that do
nothing but the dyeing and finishing of textiles.

Average Days, Hours, and Earnings, 1930 and 1932, by
Occupation
Table 1 shows for each of the 42 important occupations in the dye­
ing and finishing of textiles, for a group designated as “ other employ­
ees” , and for all occupations combined average days, hours, and earn­
ings in 1 week, average earnings per hour, and the percent of full
time worked in the week, in 1930 and in 1932. The group of “ other
employees” includes wage earners in occupations each containing too
few workers to warrant occupational tabulation.
The averages at the end of the table for males and females in all
occupations combined, or for the industry as a whole, show that days
worked in 1 week were 5.2 in 1930 and 1932; that full-time hours
per week increased from 50.9 in 1930 to 51.3 in 1932; that hours
actually worked in 1 week increased from 49.3 in 1930 to 49.9 in
1932; that they worked 96.9 percent of full time in 1930 and 97.3 per­
cent in 1932; that earnings per hour decreased from 45.2 cents in




1

2

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

1930 to 40 cents in 1932; that full-time earnings per week decreased
from $23.01 in 1930 to $20.52 in 1932, and that actual earnings in 1
week decreased from $22.29 in 1930 to $19.99 in 1932.
Average earnings per hour of males ranged in 1930 in the various
occupations from 29 cents for yarn winders to $1,247 for machine
engravers, and those of females ranged from 28.1 cents for plaiters to
43.8 cents for batchers. In 1932 the averages of males ranged from
30.3 cents for pilers to $1,021 for hand engravers, and those of females
ranged from 24 cents for plaiters to 35.6 cents for measurers. Aver­
ages of males in 40 and of females in 12 occupations and of males
and of females in the group of other occupations were less in 1932
than in 1930, and in 1 occupation for males were more in 1932 than
in 1930.
T a b le

1.— Average days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked,
1930 and 1982, by occupation and sex

Occupation and sex

Aver­
age
Num­ Num­ days
on
ber of ber of
Year estab­ wage which
lish­ earners wage
earners
ments
worked
in week

Ager tenders, male..................... 1930
1932
Back tenders, printing, male___ 1930
1932
Balers, male.............................
1930
1932
Batchers (cloth winders), male.. 1930
1932
Batchers (cloth winders), female. 1930
1932
Bath mixers, male....................... 1930
1932
Calender tenders, male............... 1930
1932
Color mixers, male...................... 1930
1932
Drier tenders, male..................... 1930
1932
Drier tenders, female............. .
1930
1932
Dyeing-machine tenders, male_. 1930
1932
Engravers, hand, male............... 1930
1932
Engravers, machine, male_____ 1930
1932
Floormen, male........................... 1930
1932
Folders, male.............................. 1930
1932
Folders, female............................ 1930
1932
Inspectors, male.......................... 1930
1932
Inspectors, female....................... 1930
1932
Jackmen, printing, male_______ 1930
1932
Kettlemen, color mixing, male__ 1930
1932
Kettlemen's helpers, male_____ 1930
1932
Kier boilers, male................. ...... 1930
1932
Knotters, female......................... 1930
1932
Mangle tenders, male.............. . 1930
1932
Mangle tenders, female............... 1930
1932




23
24
26
27
36
34
41
46
4
2
27
27
72
72
58
39
82
81
3
2
96
80
8
12
14
11
23
49
57
59
29
26
46
50
28
24
19
18
26
22
10
16
54
55
15
24
57
59
3
\

114
111
374
414
85
78
300
297
34
6
51
52
537
507
224
231
804
627
47
16
1,618
1,393
27
28
37
22
133
366
456
405
247
198
345
337
269
186
70
64
58
52
80
90
154
132
88
118
407
470
11
5

5.5
5.2
5.4
4.8
5.0
5.1
5.3
5.3
4.8
4.2
5.1
5.4
5.2
5.1
5.4
5.2
5.1
5.2
4.9
3.8
4.9
5.1
5.9
5.5
5.8
5.0
5.4
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.1
4.9
5.2
5.4
4.8
5.3
5.6
5.0
5.3
5.1
4.8
4.9
5.4
5.3
4.7
5.3
5.2
5.2
5.1
3.6

Aver­
age
full­
time
hours
per
week

Hours actu­
Aver­
ally worked
Aver­ age Aver­
in week
age
full­ age
earn­ time actual
earn­
Aver­ Per­ ings earn­ ings
per
ings
age cent hour
in
per
num­ of full
week week
ber time

51.4
51.3
51.3
51.4
51.7
51.4
49.9
50.8
48.3
49.2
50.1
51.9
51.4
52.1
52.1
52.5
51.2
51.6
48.5
48.3
50.6
50.8
49.1
50.6
49.4
51.7
52.3
50.4
51.3
51.7
49.4
51.2
50.1
50.4
51.8
52.2
51.2
51.0
51.8
51.2
49.9
51.3
53.0
53.5
51.0
51.4
51.2
51.6
50.4
49.5

61.3
56.7
56.8
52.9
44.9
46.0
48.3
51.5
38.9
25.7
49.8
53.3
50.7
49.8
55.3
57.6
51.6
53.6
43.8
31.4
48.6
49.7
50.0
50.3
50.7
44.9
54.3
47.8
47.1
49.2
42.5
38.9
47.0
48.0
41.2
44.5
57.5
56.7
56.3
56.5
49.6
50.8
56.9
58.4
41.2
45.4
50.9
51.5
49.9
34.6

119.3 $0.435 $22.36
110.5
.378 19.39
110.7
.466 23.91
102.9
.381 19.58
86.8
.362 18.72
89.5
.331 17.01
96.8
.443 22.11
101.4
.377 19.15
80.5
.438 21.16
52.2
.331 16.29
99.4
.473 23.70
102.7
.394 20.45
98.6
.431 22.15
95.6
.383 19.95
106.1
.489 25.48
109.7
.387 20.32
100.8
.435 22.27
103.9
.375 19.35
90.3
.299 14.50
65.0
.270 13.04
96.0
.465 23.53
97.8
.415 21.08
101.8 1.235 60.64
99.4 1.021 51.66
102.6 1. 247 61.60
86.8 1.004 51.91
103.8
.466 24.37
94.8
.376 18.95
91.8
.587 30.11
95.2
.498 25.75
86.0
.368 18.18
.338 17.31
76.0
93.8
.459 23.00
95.2
.408 20.56
79.5
.295 15.28
85.2
.249 13.00
112.3
.483 24.73
111.2
.395 20.15
.485 25.12
108.7
110.4
.424 21.71
99.4
.475 23.70
99.0
.320 16.42
107.4
.433 22.95
109.2
.391 20.92
.298 15.20
80.8
88.3
.267 13.72
99.4
.424 21.71
99.8
.366 18.89
99.0
.310 15.62
.241 11.93
69.9

$26.67
21.43
26.44
20.15
16.24
15.24
21.41
19.42
17.02
8.50
23.55
20.96
21.81
19.06
27.06
22.28
22.42
20.09
13.10
8.50
22.62
20.61
61.70
51.37
63.18
45.07
25.31
17.99
27.62
24.47
15.62
13.14
21.57
19.60
12.14
11.06
27.75
22.37
27.29
23.96
23.60
16.24
24.66
22.83
12.31
12.12
21.60
18.86
15.45
8.35

3

WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR

T a b le 1.— Average days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked,
1930 and 1932, by occupation and sex— Continued

Occupation and sex

Num­
ber of
Year estab­
lish­
ments

Num­
ber of
wage
earners

All employees, male........ 1930
1932
All employees, female...... 1930
1932

46
11
67
17
16
80
8
35
118
35
32
87
152
43
52
144
342
74
69
255
19
181
135
21
259
35
202
44
9
2
6
1
47
14
30
10
313
28
313
26
18
10
26
11
14
40
24
8
149
39
154
39
504
56
360
50
118
47
48
127
192
27
198
28
34
14
24
13
21
68
72
28
126
15
71
13
36
218
160
29
26
3
13
3
69
925
69
970
122
14
75
9
800
56
62
750
55
20
21
34
931
60
660
65
9
68
4
91
13
385
13
344
109 6,621
91 5,935
73 1,884
71 1,679
109 17,739
93 16,205
84 3,743
81 3,041

All employees, both sexes.. 1930
1932

109 21,482
93 19,246

Measurers, male.....................
Measurers, female...................
Mercerizers, male..................
Openers, male.................... ...
Packers, male..................... —
Pilers, male..................... .....
Plaiters, male........................
Plaiters, female._................ —
Polishers, metal, male........ —
Printing-machine tenders, male.
Roller turners, male................
Scutcher tenders, male___ ___
Sewers; male..........................
Sewers, female.................... ..
Singers, male.........................
Soaper tenders, male...............
Soap mixers, male...................
Sprinkler tenders, male............
Steamer tenders, male.............
Swing tenders, male................
Swing tenders, female.............
Tenter-frame tenders, male----Tenter-frame tenders, female---Truckers, male......................
Tub washers, male............... .
Washer tenders, male..............
Yarn winders, male................
Yarn winders, female..............
Other employees, male........... .
Other employees, female. ------




1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932
1930
1932

Hours actu­
Aver­
age Aver­ ally worked
in week
days age
on full­
which time
wage hours Aver­ Per­
earners per age cent
worked week num­ of full
ber time
in week
4.7
5.5
5.2
5.3
5.1
5.4
5.1
5.1
5.4
5.6
4.9
5.0
5.0
5.1
5.1
3.8
5.6
5.5
5.4
5.3
5.6
5.1
5.1
5.2
5.6
5.3
4.8
5.4
4.9
5.3
5.4
5.2
5.3
5.5
5.4
5.1
5.1
4.9
5.2
5.0
4.4
4.8
5.3
5.3
5.3
4.9
5.4
5.3
5.5
5.0
4.9
5.2
4.0
3.8
4.2
4.3
5.3
5.3
5.1
5.3

50.8
53.4
50.5
50.8
52.7
52.0
49.6
50.1
51.8
52.0
49.4
51.4
51.1
51.8
50.3
49.5
50.9
49.8
51.5
50.8
50.5
51.7
50.6
51.8
51.2
51.0
51.4
51.4
50.7
51.6
51.2
51.8
51.1
50.6
51.4
52.4
48.8
49.4
50.6
52.0
49.2
53.7
51.0
51.5
50.4
50.5
50.6
51.2
52.9
50.8
51.3
51.4
56.2
56.3
51.9
53.4
51.0
51.3
50.1
50.6

5.2
5.2
5.0
5.2

51.0
51.4
50.5
51.2

43.2
53.1
43.1
46.9
50.2
56.0
47.1
47.6
49.1
51.4
43.1
46.5
46.8
51.1
42.2
34.5
52.9
48.7
54.7
55.2
51.1
44.6
50.9
54.8
54.2
52.2
41.4
46.0
46.4
51.1
58.9
55.0
59.0
57.7
52.7
51.0
52.4
51.4
50.8
51.4
35.5
40.6
51.2
53.3
49.9
43.8
51.5
51.2
56.7
55.3
48.3
51.8
35.5
32.1
39.6
39.3
51.1
50.7
43.1
44.4

50.7
51.1
42.4
43.5
5.2 50.9 49.3
5.2 51.3 49.9

Aver­
age
earn­
ings
per
hour

Aver­
age
full­
time
earn­
ings
per
week

Aver­
age
actual
earn­
ings
in
week

85.0 $0,457 $23.22 $19.73
99.4 .323 17.25 17.14
85.3 .423 21.36 18.22
92.3 .356 18.08 16.69
95.3 .434 22.87 21.79
107.7 .430 22.36 24.07
95.0 .487 24.16 22.94
95.0 .394 19.74 18.77
94.8 .423 21.91 20.77
98.8 .367 19.08 18.86
87.2 .337 16.65 14.49
90.5 .303 15.57 14.10
91.6 .374 19.11 17.51
98.6 .308 15.95 15.71
83.9 .281 14.13 11.88
69.7 .240 11.88 8.28
103.9 .490 24.94 25.91
97.8 .425 21.17 20.71
106.2 1.201 61.85 65.66
108.7 1.019 51.77 56.23
101.2 .570 28.79 29.11
86.3 .398 20.58 17.73
100.6 .409 20.70 20.81
105.8 .304 15.75 16.64
105.9 .389 19.92 21.07
102.4 .332 16.93 17.32
80.5 .312 16.04 12.93
89.5 .277 14.24 12.73
91.5 .415 21.04 19.23
99.0 .366 18.89 18.71
115.0 .410 20.99 24.15
106.2 .350 18.13 19.23
115.5 .429 21.92 25.26
114.0 .403 20.39 23.24
102.5 .379 19.48 20.00
97.3 .338 17.71 17.26
107.4 .438 21.37 22.97
104.0 .345 17.04 17.72
100.4 .373 18.87 18.94
98.8 .336 17.47 17.30
72.2 .310 15.25 11.00
75.6 .275 14.77 11.18
100.4 .435 22.19 22.26
103.5 .385 19.83 20.55
99.0 .353 17.79 17.62
86.7 .319 16.11 13.95
101.8 .405 20.49 20.86
100.0 .344 17.58 17.58
107.2 .404 21.37 22.91
108.9 .355 18.03 19-62
94.2 .447 22.93 21.59
100.8 .378 19.43 19.58
63.2 .290 16.30 10.28
57.0 .346 19.48 11.08
76.3 .350 18.17 13.84
73.6 .262 13.99 10.29
100.2 .475 24.23 24.30
98.8 .441 22.62 22.34
86.0 .336 16.83 14.47
87.7 .298 15.08 13.22
99.4 .473 24.12 23.99
99.4 .418 21.49 21.37
84.0 .335 16.92 14.20
85.0 .291 14.90 12.65
96.9 .452 23.01 22.29
97.3 .400 20.52 19.99

4

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Average Days, Hours, and Earnings, 1930 and 1932, by
Sex and State
Table 2 shows for all of the males, for all of the females, and for
all males and females combined, who were included in the studies of
dyeing and finishing of textiles in each State in 1930 and 1932, average
days on which they worked and average full-time and actual hours
and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and the percent of
full time worked in the week.
In each State the average earnings per hour of males and of females
were less in 1932 than in 1930. Those of males ranged, by States,
in 1930 from 32 to 57.2 cents; those of females, from 22.3 to 38.6
cents; and those of males and females combined, from 31 to 55.4 cents.
In 1932 the averages of males ranged from 27.8 to 49.7 cents, those
of females from 21 to 35.2 cents, and those of both sexes combined
from 27 to 47.2 cents. The average hourly earnings of males for all
States were 47.3 cents in 1930 and 41.8 cents in 1932; those of females
were 33.5 cents in 1930 and 29.1 cents in 1932; and those of males
and females combined were 45.2 cents in 1930 and 40 cents in 1932.
T a b l e 2 . — Average

Sex and State

days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked,
1930 and 1932, by sex and State

Year

Males
Connecticut.............. . .

Aver­
age
Aver­
N um ­ N um ­
days age full­
ber of ber of
on
time
estab­
which
wage
hours
lish­
wage
earners
per
ments
earners
worked week
in week

Hours actually
worked in week

Aver­
age
num­
ber

Aver­ A ver-. Aver­
age full­ age
age
time
actual
earn­
Per­
earn­
earn­
ings per
cent of hour ings per ings in
full
week
week
time

1930
1932
Massachusetts.............. 1930
1932
N ew Jersey................ . 1930
1932
N ew Y ork............... .
1930
1932
North Carolina.......... . 1930
1932
Pennsylvania............... 1930
1932
Rhode Island............... 1930
1932
South Carolina............. 1930
1932

5
5
9
8
16
18
9
10
43
25
12
12
10
10
5
5

724
618
4,064
3,174
5,503
6,298
1,303
1,063
1,784
1,610
923
865
2,568
2,447
870
1,130

5.3
5.3
5.5
5.3
5.1
5.3
5.0
5.1
4.8
5.0
5.1
5.1
5.5
5.2
5.6
5.6

53.5
54.5
48.9
49.0
49.8
50.3
48.9
48.9
55.0
54.4
53.3
52.2
52.5
52.9
55.0
55.2

54.2
54.0
52.7
52.1
48.0
49.8
45.3
45.7
47.1
48.3
51.4
53.4
54.9
50.8
58.6
61.2

101.3
99.1
107.8
106.3
96.4
99.0
92.6
93.5
85.6
88.8
96.4
102.3
104.6
96.0
106.5
110.9

$0.572
.487
.433
.379
.523
.476
.520
.417
.320
.296
.546
.497
.511
.453
.332
.278

$30.60
26.54
21.17
18.57
26.05
23.94
25.43
20.39
17.60
16.10
29.10
25.94
26.83
23.96
18.26
15.35

$30.96
26.32
22.80
19.76
25.09
23.69
23.58
19.07
15.05
14.29
28.09
26.56
28.03
23.03
19.45
17.01

Total...................

1930
1932

109
93

17,739
16,205

5.2
5.2

51.0
51.4

50.7
51.1

99.4
99.4

.473
.418

24.12
21.49

23.99
21.37

Females
Connecticut..... ............ 1930
1932
Massachusetts............. 1930
1932
New Jersey................... 1930
1932
N ew Y ork..................... 1930
1932
North Carolina............ 1930
1932
Pennsylvania............... 1930
1932
Rhode Island .............. 1930
1932
South Carolina............. 1930
1932

5
3
8
7
16
18
9
9
20
20
11
9
10
10
5
5

85
81
813
577
1,077
741
218
154
863
797
230
204
359
337
98
150

5.2
5.1
5.3
5.7
5.0
5.2
4.9
4.5
4.5
4.8
4.8
5.0
5.1
5.2
6.1
5.7

53.4
54.1
48.0
48.0
48.6
48.7
48.5
48.7
54.0
54.5
51.7
51.7
52.5
52.9
55.0
55.0

49.7
48.1
41.3
43.2
40.5
40.6
40.6
38.4
42.0
43.7
43.8
44. 6
47.2
44.2
54.4
58.5

93.1
88.9
86.0
90.0
83.3
83.4
83.7
78.9
77.8
80.2
84.7
86.3
89.9
83.6
98.9
106.4

.386
.347
.313
.286
.377
.352
.343
.285
.288
.232
.352
.338
.377
.316
.223
.210

20.61
18.77
15.02
13.73
18.32
17.14
1 6 .^
13.88
15.55
12.64
18.20
17.47
19.79
16.72
12.27
11.55

19.20
16.67
12.90
12.34
15.27
14.28
13.93
10.95
12.10
10.15
15.42
15.07
17.78
13.99
12.13
12.28

84
81

3,743
3,041

5.0
5.2

50.5
51.2

42.4
43.5

84.0
85.0

.335
.291

16.92
14.90

14.20
12.65

Total...................




1930
1932

5

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR

1 a.ble 2.— Average days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked,
1930 and 1932, by sex and State— Continued

Sex and State

Year

Aver­
age
Aver­
Num ­ N um ­
days age full­
ber of ber of
on
time
which
estab­ wage
hours
lish­
per
earners wage
ments
earners week
w orked
in week

|

Hours actually
worked in week
Aver­
age
num­
ber

Aver­
Aver­ age full­ A ver­
age
age
time
actual
earn­
Per­
earn­
earn­
ings
per
ings per ings in
cent of
hour
week
week
full
time

Males and females
1930
1932
Massachusetts............. 1930
1932
New Jersey................... 1930
2932
New Y ork ..................... 1930
1932
North Carolina............ 1930
1932
Pennsylvania............... 1930
1932
Rhode Island............... 1930
1932
South Carolina_______ 1930
1932

5
5
9
8
16
18
9
10
43
25
12
12
10
10
5
5

809
699
4,877
3,751
6,580
6,039
1,521
1, 217
2,647
2,407
1,153
1,069
2,927
2,784
968
1,280

5.3
5.3
5.5
5.3
5.1
5.3
5.0
5.0
4.7
4.9
5.0
5.1
5.4
5.2
5.6
5.6

53.4
54.4
48.8
48.9
49.6
50.1
48.8
48.9
54.7
54.4
53.0
52.1
52.5
52.9
55.0
55.1

53.7
53.3
50.8
50.8
46.8
48.7
44.7
44.8
45.4
46.8
49.9
51.7
53.9
50.0
58.2
60.9

100.6
98.0
104.1
103.9
94.4
97.2
91.6
91.6
83.0
86.0
94.2
99.2
102.7
94.5
105.8
110.5

$0.554
.472
.417
.367
.502
.463
.497
.403
.310
.276
.512
.471
.497
.439
.321
.270

$29.58
25.68
20.35
17.95
24.90
23.20
24.25
19. 71
16.96
15.01
27.14
24.54
26.09
23.22
17.66
14.88

$29.73
25.20
21.15
18.62
23.48
22.53
22.20
18.04
14.09
12.92
25.56
24.37
26.78
21.94
18.71
16.45

1930
1932

109
93

21,482
19, 246

5.2
5.2

50.9
51.3

49.3
49.9

96.9
97.3

.452
.400

23.01
20.52

22.29
19.99

Connecticut..................

Total...................
i

Classified Earnings per Hour, 1930 and 1932
Average earnings per hour and a percentage distribution by aver­
age earnings per hour of the wage earners found in 12 representative
occupations in the industry in 1930 and 1932 are presented in
table 3.
The 1932 figures in the table are for males in each of the 12 occu­
pations and for females in 6 of them, no females being reported in
the other 6. The 6,677 males in these occupations are 41 percent
of the total number of males included in the study of the industry;
the 1,179 females are 39 percent of all females, and both sexes com­
bined constitute 41 percent of all wage earners in the plants included
in this report.
In 1930 the 537 calender tenders, male (the first occupation in
the table), earned an average of 43.1 cents per hour, 1 percent of
them earned less than 25 cents per hour, and 26 percent earned an
average of 50 cents or more per hour. The 507 covered in the 1932
study earned an average of 38.3 cents per hour, or 4.8 cents per hour
less than the average for 1930; 2 percent earned an average of less
than 25 cents per hour, and only 7 percent earned an average of 50
cents or more per hour.




T a b l e 3 . — Average

O

and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1930 and 1932, b y sex
Percent of wage earners whose average earnings per hour were—

Occupation and sex

12,
un­
der
14
cts.

14,
un­
der
16
cts.

16,
un­
der
18
cts.

20,
un­
der
25
cts.

25,
un­
der
30
cts.

30,
un­
der
35
cts.

35,
un­
der
40
cts.

40,
un­
der
45
cts.

45,
un­
der
50
cts.

0)

1
2

5
15

10
18

18
17

22
22

17
19

22
7

1
8
4
19

5
11
21
19

15
13
74
63

8
18

22
33

30
12

17
4

2
4

4
8

12
8

5
13

9
35

25
19

33
10

7
3

2
1

9
14

5
10
12
4

4
4
17
15

6
11
27
9

5
9
20
13

7
10
8
5

20
20
4
1

21
25
1
4

25
9
1
8

7
34
25

8
9
24
23

8
11
12
16

11
9
22
8

7
25
2
2

30
21
1

28
13
2

5
3
1

3
1

1
9

8

14
15

15
18

21
29

15
11

22
5

4

13
3

2

1
2

1
4

2
3

3
6

5
3

5
14
22
26

19
36
23
33

15
8
27
18

21
12
17
10

15
15
5
2

10
10
2
1

14
3
3
1

2

2
4

7
12
21
32

12
13
25
23

11
17
33
27

10
36
12
4

31
13
7
3

22
5
2

Calender tenders:
537
507

$0.431
.383

1930
1932
J.930
1932

82
81
3

2

804
627
47
16

.435
.375
.299
.270

Female
Dyeing-machine tenders:
M ale
Folders:
Male

1930
1932

96
80

1,618
1,393

.465
.415

1930
1932
1930
1932

57
59
29
26

456
405
247
198

.587
.498
.368
.338

Female
Inspectors:
Male

1930
1932
1930
1932

46
50
28
24

345
337
269
186

.459
.408
.295
.249

Females
Mangle tenders:
Male
Printing-machine tenders:
Male
-

1930
1932

57
59

407
470

.424
.366

Sewers:
Female
Tenter-frame tenders:
Male
Female




___

1930
1932

28
26

313
313

1.201
1.019

1930
1932
1930
1932

39
39
56
50

149
154
504
360

.389
.332
.312
.277

1930
1932
1930
1932

69
69
14
9

925
970
122
75

.435
.385
.353
.319

0)
0)

(0

1

0)

2
4

2

0)

2

0)

10

15

13
1
1
7

0)

0)

0)
0)

(0

3

0)
0)
6

12

3

1

80,
90
un­ ct.s.,
der un­
der
90
cts.
$1

$1, $1.10, $1.25, $1.50
un­ and
un­
un­
der over
der
der
$1.10 $1.25 $1.50

0)

<9
1

0)

0)

4
1

1
3

5

2

0)

0)

0)

2

0)

0)
0)

0)

0)

3
9

8
7

8
6

13
34

39
16

15
4

OF TEXTILES, 1932

72
72

70,
un­
der
80
cts.

FINISHING

1930
1932
Drier tenders:

50,
60,
un­ un­
der der
60
70
cts. cts.

AND

18,
un­
der
20
cts.

DYEING

N um ­ N um ­ Aver­
ber of ber of
age
Year estab­ wage
earn­
Un­
lish­ earn­ ings per der
12
hour
ments
ers
cts.

Trackers:
M a l e . . _____________________

1930
1932
Washer tenders:
M a l e . . ______ _____—. . . . _— 1930
1932
Y a m winders:
M ale............................................ 1930
1932
Female______________________ 1930
1932

56
62

800
750

.405
.344

60
65

931
660

.447
.378

9
4
13
13

68
91
385
344

.290
.346
.350
.262

(l)

0)

11
18

20

11

5

4
13

43

22

7

21

18
4

13
24

17

26

12

1

21

18
26

17
2

3

7
16

13
31

27
4

1
1

13
27
11

12

2
4

4

19

10

12

1

---(9

l ........

1 Less than 1 percent.

WAGES
AND
HOTIBS
OF
LABOR




8

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Table 4 shows the number and percent of wage earners of each sex
and of both sexes combined at each classified group of average earn­
ings per hour. Each wage earner covered in the study in 1932 is
grouped according to the average amount earned per hour.
T

able

4,— Number and 'percent of wage earners earning each classified amount per
hour, 1932, by sex
Number

Percent

Classified earnings
Males

Females
1
1
4
6
6
7
5
13
20
111
51
131
58
188
102
85
198
89
294
346
414
194
183
146
111
74
70
45
32
19
11
6
8
8
4

Total
1
1
4
6
6
7
7
27
35
155
67
229
83
415
225
392
393
280
1,369
1,291
1,531
1,002
1,430
1,066
1,820
1,902
1,716
742
1,128
543
377
255
180
100
61
42
23
30
44
69
84
68
24
13
3

3 and under 4 cents
.,
......
7 and iindfir 8 cents... _
_ ......
9 and under 10 cents_____________________
10
nndftr 11 r»flnt.s
_ _ _
11 and Iindfir 12 cents _ _ r _ _ ___
12 and iindfir 13 cents
_.
_
13 and under 14 cents............._................... .
14 and under 15 cents....... ............ .................
15 and under 16 cents.....................................
16 and under 17 cents................................. .
17 and under 18 cents— ........................ .......
18 and under 19 cen ts..................................
19 and under 20 cents....................... ..............
20 and under 21 cents................................. .
21 and under 22 cents......................................
22 and under 23 cents....... ............ ............. .
23 and under 24 cents.....................................
24 and under 25 cents....................... ......... .
25 and under 27H cents__________ _______
27K and under 30 cen ts......................... .......
30 and under 32^ cents----------------------------32K and under 35 cen ts................................
35 and under 37H cents............................. .
37K and under 40 cents------------------ ---------40 and under 42^ cents__________________
423^ and under 45 cents__________________
45 and under 47J^ cents--------------------- ------47H and under 50 cents_________ ________
50 and under 55 cents____________________
55 and under 60 cents______________ _____
60 and under 65 cents.....................................
65 and under 70 cents................... ... ..............
70 and under 75 cents..................... ...............
75 and under 80 cents....................... .............
80 and under 85 cents......................... .......... .
85 and under 90 cents____________________
90 and under 95 cents_____________________
95 cents and under $1____________________
$1 and under $1.10_________ ____ ______ __
$1.10 and under $1.20........ .............................
$1.20 and under $1.30............... ................. .....
$1.30 and under $1.40...... ................................
$1.40 and under $1.50_____________________
$1.50 and under $1.60________ ________ ___
$1.60 and under $1.70______ _____ ________

2
14
15
44
16
98
25
227
123
307
195
191
1,075
945
1,117
808
1,247
920
1,709
1,828
1,646
697
1,096
524
366
249
172
92
57
42
23
30
44
69
84
68
24
13
3

Total.......................................................

16,205

3,041

19,246

Average earnings per hour_______________

$0,418

$0,291

$0,400

Males

0)
0)
0)
0)
0)

Total

0)
0)
0)
0)
0)
(0
0)
0)

(l)
0)
0)
0)
0)
(0
(l)
(l)
0)

1
1
1
2
1
1
7
6
7
5
8
6
11
11
10
4
7
3
2
2
1
1

(|)
M
n)
M
(0

Females

1
4
2
4
2
6
3
3
7
3
10
11
14
6
6
5
4
2
2
1
1
1

(l)
(!)
(0
0)
0)
(1)
0)
(l)
(0
(1)
0)

1

0)
0)
0)
0)
100

1
0)

0)
0)
0)
0)

100

1

(0
2
1
2
2
1
7
7
8
5
7
6
9
10
9
4
6
3
2
1
1
1

100

i Less than 1 percent.

Full-Time Hours per Week and per Day, 1930 and 1932
The full-time hours per week and per day of a wage earner are the
hours established for him by a regular time of beginning and quitting
work each day less his regular time off duty for meals. Such hours do
not include any overtime nor extra work on Sunday and holidays, nor
are they reduced by the exclusion of any regular time lost by slack or
short-time work, sickness, or other disability, or for any other cause.
Table 5 shows average full-time hours per week and a percentage
distribution by full-time hours per week of the wage earners in each
of 12 representative occupations in the industry in 1930 and 1932.




9

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR

In compiling this table for each occupation the full-time hours of
each wage earner found in the occupation was used, even though the
wage earner actually worked more or less than his regular full time.
T a b le 5.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12
tions, 1930 and 1932, by occupation and sex

N um ­ Num ­
ber
ber
of
of
Occupation and sex Year estab­ wage
lish­ earn­
ments
ers

Calender tenders:
M ale— ............
Drier tenders:
M ale......... .
Female..
D y e in g -m a c h in e
tenders:
M ale...................
Folders:
M a leFemale..
Inspectors:
Male___
Fem ale..
Mangle tenders:
Male..............
Fem ale..
P rin tin g -m a ch in e
tenders:
Male....................
Sewers:
M a leFemale..

1930
1932

537
507

51.4
52.1

1930
1932
1932

804
627
47
16

51.2
51.6
48.5
48.3

1930
1932

1,618
1,393

50.6
50.8

1930
1932
1930
1932

456
405
247
198

51.3
51.7
49.4
51.2

1930
1932
1930
1932

345
337
269
186

50.1
50.4
51.8
52.2

1930
1932
1930
1932

407
470
5

51.2
51.6
50.4
49.5

1930
1932

313
313

51.5
50.8

1930

149
154
504

51.2
51.0
51.4
51.4

1932
1930

925
970
122
75

51.0
51.5
50.4
50.5

1930
1932

800
750

50.6
51.2

1930
1932

931
660

51.3
51.4

91
385
344

56.2
56.3
51.9
53.4

1930
1932

Tenter-frame tend­
ers:
M ale..................
Female..
Truckers:
M ale—
Washer tenders:
M ale..............
Yarn winders:
M ale...........
Fem ale-

Aver­
age
full­
time
hours
per
week

1930
1932
1930
1932

11

occupa-

Percent of wage earners whose full-time hours per
week were—

Un­
der
48

48

Over
48,
un­
der
50

50

Over
50,
un­
der
54

54

55

36

Over
55,
un­
der
60

Over
60

0)

0)

0)
0)
33

v-‘M
<••‘1

47

59

1 Less than 1 percent.

The full-time hours per day, Monday to Thursday, Friday, and
Saturday, and per week, in table 6, are the regular hours of operation
for daywork in each of the 93 plants included in the 1932 study of the
industry and for nightwork in 22 of the 93 plants in which th&erwere
both day and night shifts.




10

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 19S2

Full-time hours per week for daywork in the 93 plants ranged from
42% in 2 plants to 60 in 4 plants, and for nightwork in the 22 plants
that had both day and night shifts, ranged from 48 in 1 plant to 70 in
2 plants. In a majority of the plants in which there were day and
night shifts, the night force was less than the day force and was
limited to certain departments.
The 5-day week, with no work on Saturday, was in effect in 27 of
the 93 plants in which there was daywork, and in 20 of the 22 in which
there was nightwork. The hours of 1 plant in which there was nightwork were 12 per night, Monday to Thursday, with no work on
Friday and Saturday or 48 per week and of 1 were 10 per night, Mon­
day to Saturday, or 60 per week.
Hours for daywork, Monday to Friday ranged from 8K to 12, and
for nightwork, from 10 to 14. On Saturday hours for daywork ranged
from 3 to 5%.
T a b l e 6 .—

Classification of establishments in each State by full-time hours per weeh
and per day, for daywork and for nightwork, 1932
DAYW ORK
Full-time tou rs per day

Number of establishments in—

&

Full-time hours per
week

is
a §
* >

I
m

42H45—
47H48__

9

8H
m

m
m

m
m

9

48%49H.
49%50—

9
9
9
10

50H.
52H-

m
m

10H

m
m
m
9%

64..

8H
9
9^

m
8H
8H

65..

9

9
9
9
10

m
m
m
m
m
m

10
9
10

11

60..

11
12

'd §

I

&
0
0
0
m

4K
3

1

2

0

0

1

1
1

4H

m
5
0

4

10
1
1

m
5
0

2

m
m
m

2

0

25
7
3

1
1
1
5
1

5

4
5
5
5

1

0

18

T otal.

10

25

10

93

1

1
2
1
3
1
7
1
3
1
2

1

22

N IG H T W O R K
48...................................
60...................................
54...................................
55...................................
60...................................
62H ...............................
65...................................
67H ...............................
70...................................
T otal..................

12
10
11
11
10
12
12H
13
13H
14

0
10
10
11
10
12
12H
13
13H
14

0
0
0
0
10
0
0
0
0
0

1
2
1

1

2
1
1

1
3
1
2

1

1
1

3

1

1

3

9

1

4

1

i Includes 1 establishment in which hours of females were 49 H per week—9 on M onday to Friday and
iH on Saturday.




11

WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR

Changes in Full-Time Hours Since May 1, 1930
Only 6 of the 93 plants included in the 1932 study of the industry
reported changes in regular full-time hours per week since May 1,
1930.
Table 7 shows the hours per week and per day before and after the
change for each of the six plants.
T a b l e 7 . — Hours

per week and per day of establishments before and after change
between May 1, 1930, and period of 1932 study
Hours before change

1 A ll.............................................................................
1 ___ d o________________________________________
1
1 ____ d o _______________________________________
1 ____ d o................... ........................................... .......
1 Ageing, calender, napping, starching and
tentering, cotton dyeing, soaping, cloth, and
bleaching departments, and males in shear
and singe departments_____________________
Females in shear and singe department______
Repair department__________________________

Per
week

M on­
day to
Friday

Satur­
day

Per
week

M on ­
day to
Friday

Satur­
day

40
55
55
47H
48

i

Wage earners affected b y change

Hours after change

8
10
10
m
m

0
5
5
0
4H

50
50
55
45
54

10
10
11
9
10

0
0
0
0
4

48
48
48

yo oo oo

Num­
ber
of
estab­
lish­
ments

m
4H
4H

50
45
54

10
9
9

0
0
9

Changes in Wage Rates Since May 1, 1930
Changes in wages between May 1, 1930, and the period of the 1932
study were reported by 81 of the 93 plants for which figures are given
in this report. All changes were decreases.
Table 8 shows the wage earners affected by the change, the percent
of decrease in rates, and the year in which each change was made.
The table shows that the rates of all or a specified part of the wage
earners in 64 plants were reduced once only between May 1, 1930,
and the period of the 1932 study, and in 13 plants were reduced twice;
and that the rates of all wage earners in 4 plants were reduced three
times (5, 5, and 5 percent) during the period. The decreases ranged,
by plants, from 5 percent to 12% and 10 percent.




12

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

T a b l e 8 . — Changes

N um ­
ber of
estab­
lish­
ments

in wage rates in 81 establishments between May 1, 1980, and
the period of the 1982 study

Wage earners affected b y the change

AIL.
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
Those at weekly rates____ _________
Those at 50 cents or more per hour..
All..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
.d o..
-d o Winders....................................... .............
A l l - ............. - .......... — ____ _________
Those at more than 40 cents per hour..
Those at more than 36 cents per hour..
Overseers........................ .........................
Part only but not specified....................
All..
Those at less than 35 cents per hour...........
Those at 35 to 45 cents per hour........ ..........
Those at more than 45 cents and those at
piece rates.
A ll.....................................................................

Percent of decrease and year in which change
was made

15 in 1931.
13^ in 1931.
12y2 in 1 plant in 1931 and 1 in 1932.
12 in 1930.
10 in 1 plant in 1930, in 32 plants in 1931, and in 15 in
1932.
8 in 1931.
7V2 in 1932.
5 in 2 plants in 1931 and in 1 in 1932.
10 in 1931.
10 in 1931.
12M in 1930 and 10 in 1931.
123^ and 10 in 1931.
10 in 1930 and 10 in 1931.
10 in 1931 and 10 in 1932.
10 in 1931 and various individual cuts in 1932.
10 in 1931 and 8 in 1932.
10 and 8 in 1931.
lYi in 1930 and 7V2 in 1932.
10 and 5y2 in 1931.
11 in 1931.
10 in 1932.
10 in 1931.
10 in 1932.
10 in 1931.
Various individual cuts in 1932.
5 and 5 in 1931 and 5 in 1932.
5 in 1931.
7V2 in 1931.
10 in 1931.
5 in 1931.

Overtime, Sunday, and Holiday Work, 1932
Overtime is any time worked in excess of the regular full time per
day or per week, regardless of the rate paid for such work. Work on
Sunday and holidays is extra work only when the working schedule
does not provide for work on those days. Work on Saturday in a
plant in which the 5-day week, Monday to Friday, is in effect is
overtime.
In reply to inquiries concerning overtime and extra work on
Sunday and holidays 88 of the 93 plants reported a small amount of
overtime as having been worked during the pay period covered by the
1932 study and 27 reported extra work on Sunday and holidays.
Only 23 of the 88 plants in which there was overtime and 26 of the 27
in which there was extra work on Sunday and holidays paid a higher
rate for such work than for regular working time. Four of the plants
that were on the 5-day week basis had a limited amount of overtime
and paid a higher rate for it than for regular working time. The
same rate was paid for overtime in 65 plants, and for extra work on
Sunday and holidays in 1 plant, as for regular working time.
Table 9 shows the number of plants in which there was provision
for the payment of a higher rate for overtime and for work on Sunday
and holidays, the wage earners who were entitled to the extra rate
for such work, and the number of times the regular rate paid for such
work.




13

WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR
T a b l e 9 . — Higher

rate of pay for overtime, and extra work on Sunday and holidays,
and wage earners entitled, 1932
Times regular rate for
each hour of—

N um ­
ber of
estab­
lish­
ments

9
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
1
1

Wage earners entitled
Over­
time

A ll............................................................................... .......................................
........do............................................................................................. ........ — ........
____ do......... ............... ........... .............................................................................
____ do_________ ___ _____
_ ____
_____ __________________
____ do_________ ___ ______
_ _ ____
. _______________________
____ do_________ ___________ ___________
__________________________
____ do________________________________ ______________________________
fAll except printers____________________________________________________
1Printers______________________________________________________________
____ do___________ _______ ________ ___________________ _____ ______ ___
Printers and engravers and their apprentices, and those in the repair
department______________________ _________ ________________________
Those in the maintenance department________________________________
Those at time rates................................ .......... .......... ......... ............. ..............
Printers, colorists, color mixers, and color-mixing kettlemen at less
than $1 per hour____________________________ ____ __________________
A ll except night kier boilers_________________ ________________________
Printers, hand and machine engravers, die makers, etchers, pantograph
setters, sketch makers, and their apprentices _______________________
1 Saturday afternoon.

114
V4
l'H
1M

Extra
work
on
Sun­
day
and
holi­
days

Over­
time
on
Satur­
days

m
2
IK
1X
2
m

1M
iy 2
m

1M
1H
1H

m

m

iy 2
iiH

1M
(2)
m

V/z

1M

2

m

2 $1 per hour for overtime.

Bonus Systems, 1932
A bonus is compensation in addition to earnings at time or piece
rates.
Twenty-six of the 93 plants included in the 1932 study of the
industry reported bonus systems in operation. The basis of the bonus,
the wage earners entitled to bonus payments, and the amount of and
conditions necessary to get the bonus are shown for each plant in
table 10.
The basis of the bonus in 16 plants was production; in 2 production
and attendance; in 1 production and time saving; in 4 time saving; in
1 efficiency; in 1 attendance; and in 1 service and attendance.
T a b le 1 0 . — Bonus

N um ­
ber of Bonus based
estab­
on—
lish­
ments
1

systems in operation in 26 establishments in 1932

Wage earners entitled to
bonus

Bonus earned when—

P roduction. Printers, color boys, color
mixers, gray tenders,
and back tenders.

Production b y group is
over 25,000 yards in 10
hours.

All in dyehouse except ele­
vator man.

Production is more than
the set standard for a
specified unit of time.

1 ........do...........

177409°—3 3 - - 2




Amount of bonus

10 percent of earnings at
basic rates when produc­
tion in 10 hours is 25,001
to 29,999 yards and 15
percent when it is 30,000
yards or more.
% of all production over set
standard at basic wage
rates.

14

DYEING AND FINISHING OP TEXTILES, 1932

T a b le

10.— Bonus systems in operation in 26 establishments in 1982— Continued

N um ­
ber of
based
estab­ Bonus
on—
lish­
ments
Production.

Wage earners entitled to
bonus

Doubling-machine
ators.

oper­

........d o........... Markers, wrappers, fold­
ers, and hooker and
doubling-machine oper­
ators.
Stringers...............................
.. .d o ..
Markers, sewers, inspec­
........d o tors, folders, wrappers,
and hooker and dou­
bling-machine operators.
........do______ Pressmen, folders, male,
and hooker and dou­
bling-machine operators.
— do___
Openers, sewers and hook­
er-machine operators.
Sewers and singers and
........do___
those in bleaching, age­
ing, steaming, merceriz­
ing, folding, back gray,
dyehouse and finishing
departments.
Those in bleaching, dye­
........do____
ing, mercerizing, singe­
ing, packing, and un­
winding departments.
........do..
Openers................................
------do..

Folders.

Bonus earned when—

Production is more than
the set standard for a
specified unit of time.
___ d o..................................

Doublers and batchers..

Truckers.........................
Assistant foremen..
Starch mixers................
Mangle-room truckers..
Waste washers...............
........d o .......... Hookers—
Stitchers.
Packers...
Folders................................
___ do........... Yarders, folders, and tack­
ers.
Sewers.............................




A fixed amount for each
unit of production over
set standard.
D o.

.d o..
.d o..

Do.
Do.

.d o..

Do.

_do_.

D o.

..do..

Do.

.do..

Layout is over 60,000
yards per day.
Average yards folded in
specified unit of time is
over 34,000 per day of
hours.

—d o........... Yarders and hookers or Over 25,000 yards are
handled in a day.
folders.
Tackers............................... . ____do..................................

........do........... Starch manglers.............

Amount of bonus

Over 325 pieces are
handled in a day.
Over 41,000 yards are
handled in a day.
Over 110,000 yards are
transferred to hook in a
day.
All machine operators
earn a bonus.
.do.
.d o..
Over 16 bales are washed
in a day.
Over 25,000 yards are
handled in a day.
Over 22,000 yards are
handled in a day.
Over 150,000 yards are
handled in a day.
Over 22,000 yards are
handled in a day.
Over 25,000 yards are
handled in a day.
900 seams or more are
made in a day.

Winders .

40,000 yards or more are
wound in a day.

Balers..

40 bales or more are made
in a day.

H of all production over set
standard at basic wage
rates.
4 cents per each 1,000 yards
over 60,000 per day.
3 cents per hour when aver­
age is 34,000 to 38,000
yards per day and 6 cents
per hour when average is
over 38,000 yards per day.
10 cents for each 1,000 yards
over 25,000 per day.
5 cents for each 1,000 yards
over 25,000 per day.
1 cent for each piece over
325 pieces per day.
4H cents for each 1,000
yards over 41,000 per day.
Ho cent for each 1,000 yards
over 110,000 yards daily.
13H cents for each machine.
9 cents for each machine.
4H cents for each machine.
10 cents for each bale over
16 per day.
4f i cents for each 1,000
yards over 25,000 per day.
3H cents for each 1,000
yards over 22,000 per day.
8Moo cent for each 1,000
yards over 150,000 per
day.
6H cents for each 1,000
yards over 22,000 per day.
8 cents for each 1,000 yards
over 25,000 per day.
35 cents per day for 900
seams and 10 cents addi­
tional for each 100 over
900 per day.
40 cents per day for 40,000
yards and 4 cents addi­
tional for each 1,000 yards
over 40,000 per day.
20 cents per day for 40 bales
and 2 cents additional for
each bale over 40 per day.

15

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR
T a b l e 1 0 . — Bonus

N um ­
ber of
based
estab­ Bonus
on—
lish­
ments
Production
and
at­
tendance.
____d o_____

systems in operation in 26 establishments in 1982— C ontinued

Wage earners entitled to
bonus

Bonus earned when—

Amount of bonus

All with little or no lost
time in a pay period.

Production is more than
set standard for speci­
fied unit of time.
Machine averages in a
week, 1,300 yards per
hour.

All production over set
standard at basic rates.

Printing-machine tenders,
colorists, and second
hands.

Wrappers, doublers, batch­
er ticketers, and stamp­
ers.
E fficien cy... All except overseer.............

Over 325 pieces are han­
dled in a day.
Defects are found in work
of others.

Printers----------- --------------- Full or part of a day is
worked.
Those in white winding, Task is completed in time
allotted or less.
dyehouse, dry can, ani­
line color, printing, en­
graving, tenter frame,
starch, calender, print
box, make-up, color,
calender, and shade de­
partments or shops.
____ do........... Gray, singe, mercerize, Set task is completed in
white winding, print­
less than time allotted.
ing, tenter-frame, calen­
der, make-up, packing,
machinists, storehouse,
steam and soap, dyehouse, plant trucking,
elevators, color, and
bleach departments.
..do..
..do........... Gray, mercerize, printing,
tenter-frame, calender,
folding, packing, me­
chanics,
storehouse,
bleaching, and dyehouse departments.
—do........... Gray? singe, mercerizing,
.d o..
white winding, print­
ing, calender and silk
finish, starch, frame,
packing and loose stock,
folding, machinists, store­
house, steam and soap,
dyehouse and engrav­
ing departments.
Service and A ll........................................ In service 1 or more years
attend­
and no time lost in
week.
ance.
Attendance.
Tim e
ing.

sav­

Production..

Openers..
Sewers...

Tim e
ing.

sav­

Jig dyers, starch mangle
tenders, and starch boil­
ers.
Pad dyers, winding-ma­
chine operators, back­
ers, bundlers, stampers,
paperers, and yard-ma­
chine operators.
Folders..............................




Lay-out is more than
1,600 pieces per day.
Completed more than
5,000 yards per hour.
Task is completed in less
than time allotted.

$5 per week to each one in
crew who worked full
time, and $2.50 per week
to any who worked part
time.
1 cent for each piece over
325 per day.
5 or 10 percent of earnings
at basic rates of pay as
determined b y overseer.
$1 for each full or part day.
20 percent of earnings at
basic wage rates for fin­
ishing task in time allot­
ted or less, and also 60
percent of time saved at
basic wage rates for fin­
ishing task in less than
time allotted.
Specified percent of time
saved at basic wage rates.

Do.

Do.

50 cents per week each to
those in service 1 and
under 3 years; $1 per
week to those in service
3 and under 5 years; and
$1.50 per week to those
in service 5 years or more.
14 cents for each 100 pieces
over 1,500 per day.
10 cents for each 1,000 yards
over 5,000 per hour.
H of time saved at basic
wage rates.

-do..

.d o..

H of time saved plus 5 per­
cent of time worked at
basic wage rates.

16

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Index Numbers of Employment and of Pay Rolls,
1923 to 1932
Index numbers of employment and of pay rolls in the dyeing and
finishing of textiles industry are presented in table 11 for each month
from January 1923 to December 1932, inclusive. These index numbers
were computed from the volume of employment and the amounts of
pay rolls for each month and year, with the 1926 average as the base
or 100. The index numbers are as published by the bureau in monthly
reports on Trend of Employment in the United States.
During the period covered by the table employment was highest
at 106.1 in April 1923 and lowest at 64.1 in July 1932. Pay rolls were
highest at 110 in March 1925 and February 1929 and lowest at 37.8
in July 1932.
T

able

11.— Index numbers of employment and of pay rolls, January, 1928, to
December 1932, by month and year
[Average for 1926=100]
Employment
Month
1923

1924

1925

1926

1927

1928

January....................- ................................ . 105.9 92.3
February------------------------------- ------------- - 104.6 97.7
M arch....................... .................... ........... . 105.5 96.8
106.1 96.0
M a y . ............ ............................................... 104.8 93.0
June-------------------------------------------- -------- 100.7 90.3
July________ ___________________ _____ _ 101.0 88.7
August--------------------------------- ------- -------- 95.1 86.4
September----------------- ------------------------- 96.6 92.3
O c to b e r_______________________________ 101.2 96.1
N ovem ber........................ ........................... 101.0 98.0
December.................. ................................... 103.0 100.7

102.0
104.0
105.0
105.2
102.8
97.7
98.1
97.2
99.0
102.9
103.4
103.0

103.6
103.6
103.8
101.8
99.4
98.0
93.8
96.2
98.1
99.7
100.9
100.8

100.3
101.5
102.1
102.2
100.4
99.3
97.3
98.6
100.4
102.2
103.2
102.9

102.0
103.3
102.2
99.8
98.5
96.5
94.8
95.5
96.6
99.4
101.9
103.3

Average............................................... 102.1

94.0 101.7 100.0 100.9

1929

1932

1930

1931

102.0 99.3
104.7 100.4
105.2 99.8
104.3 98.0
103.1 94.8
101.6 90.4
99.4 84.2
98.0 86.6
100.8 85.5
102.4 91.4
100.8 92.8
99.0 93.1

92.9
95.5
95.4
93.5
91.2
86.0
82.7
84.1
86.0
82.9
82.5
83.0

83.0
86.2
85.8
80.7
74.9
71.5
64.1
68.1
77.8
77.9
78.1
78.0

93.0

88.0

77.2

1930

1931

104.2 95.5
110.0 99.2
109.8 100.6
107.4 96.3
106.5 90.4
100.8 80.0
96.1 72.8
97.4 76.4
100.0 79.9
103.5 86.9
96.5 88.1
94.4 88.1

85.9
96.2
94.5
90.6
84.7
76.2
73.7
77.4
76.6
70.9
70.4
71.5

70.0
75.4
72.4
59.7
49.4
49.5
37.8
47.3
60.0
57.6
54.0
53.3

80.7

57.2

99.5 101.8

Pay-roll totals
M onth
1923
January— ...................................................
February.................................................... .
M arch........................ ...................................
April................................... ..........................
M a y .................................... ..........................
June...............................................................
July......................................................- ........
A u gu st..........................................................
September...................................... ..............
October............................. ...........................
N ovem ber.....................................................
December........................... ..........................

1924

1925

1926

1927

1928

101.3 91.2
101.8 98.0
103.7 94.2
104.5 93.0
108.6 88.8
100.2 83.2
96.1 79.7
87.5 82.5
93.0 92.3
100.0 96.3
98.3 96.6
103.8 105.9

105.9
107.8
110.0
105.4
102.2
94.3
94.1
93.9
94.5
107.8
105.4
106.3

104.5
106.5
106.3
102.5
97.8
94.1
89.0
93.1
98.0
102.7
102.2
102.8

101.5
106.3
107.0
105.7
101.2
99.6
94.9
98.5
103.2
106.2
104.2
105.3

100.6
105.6
105.7
100.5
100.2
95.6
91.6
94.1
97.3
104.0
106.7
109.7

Average............................................. . 99.9

1929

91.8 102.3 100.0 102.8 101.0 102.2

87.9

1932

Importance of the Industry
Table 12 shows, for the industry, the number of establishments,
average number of wage earners, the amount paid in wages, the cost
of materials, the value of products, and the value added by manu­
facture, as published by the United States Census of Manufactures.
The figures are for the United States as a whole for each of the specified
years from 1899 to 1929, and in 1929 for each of the 8 States included
m the 1932 study.




17

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR

From the census figures the average per wage earner of each item
was computed by the Bureau of Labor Statistics, as was the percent
that amount of wages was of the value added by manufacture.
Average annual wages per wage earner were $1,188 in 1929 and
ranged by years from $427 in 1899 to $1,242 in 1927. By States
averages in 1929 ranged from $826 to $1,299.
Wages formed 41 percent of value added by manufacture in 1929
and ranged, by years, from 38 percent in 1919 to 50 percent in 1904;
in 1929 the percent ranged by States from 29 to 45.
T a b l e 1 2 . — Number

of establishments, average number of wage earners, amount of
wages, cost of materials, value of products, and value added by manufacture, IS99
to 1929 by year and 1929 by State
From United States Census of Manufactures

State and year

United States:
1899.................
1904-...............
1909.................
1914.................
1919.................
1921.................
1923............. .
1925.................
1927.................
1929-...........

N um ­
ber of
estab­
lish­
ments

Average
number
of wage
earners

360
426
507
628

743
732

Amount
paid in

Cost of
materials

Value of
products

29,776
35, 565
44,046
48,467
55,985
51, 510
63,414
70,749
73,851
79,327

$12,726,316
15,469,205
21,226,924
24,872,318
57,189,978
58,138,729
72,524,711
83,983,377
91,697,219
94,244,685

$17,958,137
19,621,253
35,261,301
56,705,135
174,742,815
141,198,956
199,156,387
220,678,181
210,680,900
235,712,156

$44,963,331
50,849, 545
83,556,432
109,291,536
323,967,683
276,750,670
366,623,213
408,515,484
406,047,372
465,820, 629

$27,005,194
31,228,292
48,295,131
52,586,401
149,224,868
135,551,714
167,466,826
187,837,303
195.366.472
230.108.473

2,309
14,450
23,097
6,561
2,363
8,858
9,242
1,939
10,508

2,801,222
16,853,664
29,943,872
8,346,446
1,952,693
11, 504,787
11,306,286
1,690,178
9,845, 537

4,991,570
53,034,427
47,184,154
14,296,162
10,822,594
44,617,951
22,816,892
2,648,133
35,300,273

12,440, 511
93,148,770
113,558,338
33,257,902
16,079,262
73,958,467
51,394,741
8, 555,189
63,427,449

7,448,941
40,114,343
66,374,184
18,961,740
5,256,668
29,340,516
28,577,849
5,907,056
28,127,176

Value added
b y manufac­
ture

1929
Connecticut------Massachusetts - - New Jersey..........
New Y ork ______
North Carolina - Pennsylvania___
Rhode Island-----South C a r o lin a Other States........

21
67
167
157
18
133
62
11

96

Computed b y United States Bureau of Labor Statistics
Average per wage earner of—
State and year
Average
annual
wages

Cost of
materials

Value of
products

Percent
Value added wages are
of
value
b y manu­
added
facture

United States:
1899..........................................................
1904..........................................................
1909..........................................................
1914...........................................................
1919..........................................................
1921..........................................................
1923..................................... ....................
1925..........................................................
1927..........................................................
1929..........................................................

$427
435
482
513
1,022
1,129
1,144
1,187
1,242
1,188

$603
552
801
1,170
3,121
2,741
3,141
3,119
2,853
2,971

$1,510
1,430
1,897
2,255
5,787
5,373
5,781
5,774
5,498
5,872

$907
878
1,096
1,085
2,665
2,632
2,641
2,655
2,645
2,901

47
50
44
47
38
43
43
45
47
41

1929
Connecticut...................................................
M assachusetts-............................................
New Jersey....................................................
New York....... ................. .................... —
North Carolina-.................. ................. .......
Pennsylvania-........................................—
Rhode Island_____ ______ ____ - ............ —
South Carolina.............................................
Other States..................................................

1,213
1,166
1,296
1,272
826
1,299
1,223
872
937

2,162
3,670
2,043
2,179
4,580
5,037
2,469
1,366
3,359

5,388
6,446
4,917
5,069
6,805
8,349
5,561
4,412
6,036

3,226
2,776
2,874
2,890
2,225
3, 312
3,092
3,046
2,677

38
42
45
44
37
39
40
29
35




18

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Scope and Method
This bulletin presents 1932 wage figures for 19,246 wage earners of
93 representative plants that were engaged in dyeing and finishing
textiles, mostly cotton goods, in Connecticut, Massachusetts, New
Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, and
South Carolina. In some plants the goods included rayon and silk
mixtures. These States, according to the 1929 Census of Manufac­
tures, are the most important in the industry in number of wage
earners. Together they include 87 percent of the total number of
wage earners in the industry in the United States. The number for
which wage figures are shown for 1932 is 24 percent of the total in all
the States. Data for executives and office and clerical workers were
not used in compiling the report.
Data for each of the plants with a pay period of more than 1 week
were reduced to a 1-week basis. A majority of the plants covered in
the 1932 study had weekly pay periods.
Average days worked in 1 week were computed by dividing the
total days on which all wage earners in an occupation worked in 1
week by the total number of wage earners in the occupation in the
week. In computing the average, each day or part of a day on which
a wage earner did any work was counted a day.
Average full-time hours per week for the wage earners in each
occupation were computed by dividing the aggregate full-time hours
of all wage earners in the occupation by the number in the occupation.
The full-time hours of each wage earner were used in obtaining this
average, even though part of them may have worked more or less
than full time.
Average hours actually worked in 1 week were computed by dividing
the aggregate hours actually worked in 1 week by all wage earners in
an occupation by the number of wage earners in the occupation in
the week.
Average earnings per hour in each occupation were computed by
dividing the aggregate earnings of all wage earners in the occupation
by the aggregate number of hours worked by them during the week.
Average full-time earnings per week were computed by multiplying
the average earnings per hour of the wage earners in an occupation by
their full-time hours per week. This shows what the earnings would
have been had all wage earners in the occupation worked full time,
no more, no less, and at the same average earnings per hour as for the
time that was actually worked in 1 week.
Average actual earnings per week were computed by dividing the
aggregate earnings in 1 week of all wage earners in an occupation by
the number of wage earners in the occupation.
Table 13 shows by States the number of wage earners in the in­
dustry in 1929 as reported by the United States Census of Manufac­
tures, the number of establishments from which the Bureau of Labor
Statistics obtained data in 1932, and the number of wage earners
included in the 1932 study.




19

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR
T a b l e 1 3 . — Number

of wage earners in dyeing and finishing textiles in 1929, and
number of establishments and wage earners for which 1932 data are shown, by
States

Wage earn­
ers reported
b y United
States Cen­
sus in 1929

State

Number of establish­
ments and wage earn­
ers for which data are
shown b y the Bureau
of Labor Statistics for
1932
Establish­
ments

Wage earn­
ers

Connecticut__________________________________________________
Massachusetts________________________________________________
New J e r s e y ..________________________________________________
New Y ork ____________________________________________________
North Carolina_______________________________________________
Pennsylvania__________________________________________ ____
Rhode Island_________________________________________________
South Carolina_______________________________________________
Other States__________________________________________________

2,309
14,450
23,097
6,561
2,363
8,858
9,242
1,939
10,508

5
8
18
10
25
12
10
5

699
3,751
6,039
1,217
2,407
1,069
2,784
1,280

Total___ ________________ _________ ________ ____ _______

79,327

93

19,246

Occupations
Wages and hours of labor are presented in this bulletin for each of
the occupations below and also for the miscellaneous group desig­
nated as “ Other employees. ” Each occupation found in the industry
is defined in the Appendix (p. 47).
Ager tenders.
Back tenders, printing.
Balers.
Batchers (cloth winders).
Bath mixers.
Calender tenders.
Color mixers.
Drier tenders.
Dyeing-machine tenders.
Engravers, hand.
Engravers, machine.
Floormen.
Folders.
Inspectors.
Jackmen, printing.
Kettlemen, color mixing.
Kettlemen’s helpers.
Kier boilers.
Knotters.
Mangle tenders.
Measurers.

Mercerizers.
Openers.
Packers.
Pilers.
Plaiters.
Polishers.
Printing-machine tenders.
Roller turners.
Scutcher tenders.
Sewers.
Singers.
Soaper tenders.
Soap mixers.
Sprinkler tenders.
Steamer tenders.
Swing tenders.
Tenter-frame tenders.
Truckers.
Tub washers.
Washer tenders.
Yarn winders.

General Tables
In addition to the preceding text tables, five general tables are
presented as follows:
T a b l e A.— Average number of days on which wage earners
worked, average full-time and actual hours and earnings per week,
average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by
occupation, sex, and State.
The presentation in the table in parallel columns of “ average
full-time hours per week” and “ average hours actually worked in 1




20

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

week” is for the purpose of easy comparison of the hours that would
have been worked in the week had all wage earners in the occupation
worked no more nor less than full time, with the average hours that
were actually worked in the week. One column shows the full-time
hours per week under normal conditions, while the other shows the
hours actually worked in the week by all wage earners in the occupa­
tion in each State and in all States combined.
On page 28 (at the end of the table) it is seen that 16,205 males in
the 93 plants worked on an average of 5.2 days in 1 week; that their
average full-time hours in 1 week were 51.4; that they actually worked
51.1 hours in the week, or 99.4 percent of full time; that they earned
an average of 41.8 cents per hour and $21.37 per week; and that had
they worked full time at the same average rate per hour as was
earned in the 51.1 hours, they would have earned $21.49 in the week.
The 3,041 females in the 81 plants in which they were found em­
ployed worked on an average of 5.2 days in 1 week. Their average
full-time hours per week were 51.2 and they worked an average of
43.5 hours in the week or 85 percent of full time. They earned an
average of 29.1 cents per hour and $12.65 in the week. Had they
worked their average full time of 51.2 hours at the same average rate
per hour as was earned in the 43.5 hours they would have earned an
average of $14.90.
The 19,246 males and females in the 93 plants worked on an aver­
age of 5.2 days in 1 week. Their average full-time hours per week
were 51.3, and in the week they worked an average of 49.9 hours,
or 97.3 percent of full time. They earned an average of 40 cents per
hour and $19.99 in the week. Had they worked their average full­
time hours of 51.3 per week at the same average per hour as was
earned in the 49.9 hours actually worked they would have earned
an average of $20.52 in the week.
T a b l e B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified
occupations, 1932, by sex and State.
T a b l e C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12
specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State.
T a b l e D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1
week in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State.
T a b l e E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12
specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State.
T

A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full­
time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per­
cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State

able

Occupation, sex, and State

Ager tenders, male:
C on n ecticu t.............................
M assachusetts............................
N ew Jersey................................ .
N ew Y ork........... .......... .......... .
North Carolina......... .................
P ennsylvania............................
Rhode Island....... ..................... .
South C arolin a..........................
Total........... .......... ..................
1D ata included in total.




N um ­ N um ­
ber of
of
estab­ ber
wage
lish­
ments earners

3
6
6
1
1
1
5
1
24

3
33
42
0)
0)
0)

20
0)
111

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
worked
in 1
week
5.7
5.3
4.8
(')
0)
0)
5.4
0)
5.2

Aver­
Aver­ Aver­
Aver­
age
Aver­ age
age
age
full­
hours
Percent
age
full­
actual
actu­ of full earn­ time
time
earn­
ally
ings
time
earn­
hours worked w orked
ings
per
ings
per
in 1
in 1
hour
per
week
week
week
week
55.0
50.3
48.7
0)
0)
0)
55.7
0)
51.3

76.4
62.8
47.0
0)
0)
<0
59.0
0)
56.7

138.9 $0.393 $21.62
124.9
.320 16.10
96.5
.437 21.28
0)
(l)
0)
0)
0)
0)
0)
0)
0)
105.9
.418 23.28
0)
(')
0)
110.5
.378 19.39

$30.06
20.12
20.54
0)
0)
0)
24.67
0)
21.43

21

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR
T a b l e A . — Average

number of days on which wage earners worked, average full­
time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per­
cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued

Occupation, sex, and State

N um ­ N um ­
ber of
estab­ ber of
wage
lish­
ments earners

Back tenders, printing, male:
Connecticut............. ............... .
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey.................................
N ew Y o r k ..................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania................ ..............
Rhode Island.............................
South Carolina...........................

3
6
6
1
3
1
6
1

Total.........................................

27

414

Balers, male:
Massachusetts........................... .
N ew Jersey................................
New Y o r k ................................
North Carolina.........................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island............................. .
South Carolina...........................

6
3
2
11
6
3
3

Total.............................. .........
Batchers (cloth winders), male.*
Connecticut........ ........................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
New York....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina...........................

34

Total_________ _____________
Batchers (cloth winders), female:
Massachusetts............ ...............
South Carolina_______________

46

Total..........................................
Bath mixers, male:
Connecticut............................... .
Massachusetts......................... .
New Jersey..................................
New York....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania................ ........... .
Rhode Island............ ................
South Carolina........................ .

2

1
5
15
6
4
2
8
5

1
1

1
4
6
6
4
1
4
1

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
w orked
in 1
week

Aver­
Aver­ Aver­
Aver­
Aver­
age
age
age
age
age
full­
full­ hours Percent
actual
of
full
earn­
actu­
time
time
earn­
earn­
time
ings
hours ally
ings
ings
per worked w orked per
in 1
in 1
per
hour
week
week
week
week

55.4
48.5
48.7

62.5
56.5
40.1

51.3

4.8

15
3
3
31
16
5
5
78

25
120
86

0)
12
0)
109

<*)

0)

67
121
24
6
7
29
34

297

0)
0)

0)

(0

0)

0)

$31.3
19.12
18.88
0)
15.97
0)
20.67

51.4

52.9

102.9

.381

19.58

20.15

5.7
5.0
6.0
4.7
4.8
5.8
5.6

48.5
52.2
48.7
53.9
47.6
54.0
55.0

49.0
49.8
53.3
45.0
37.9
51.1
57.6

101.0
95.4
109.4
83.5
79.6
94.6
104.7

.320
.379
.351
.232
.468
.557
.314

15.52
19.78
17.09
12.50
22.28
30.08
17.27

15.68
18.91
18.72
10.45
17.75
28.45
18.06

5.1

51.4

46.0

89.5

.331

17.01

15.24

(0
5.3
0)
4.7
(0

8
17
7
9
8

(0

0)

0)

48.9
50.1
49.5
50.8
52.9
52.6
55.0

0)

0)
52.2
49.7
42.7
49.9
62.5
50.1
59.0

106.7
99.2
86.3
98.2
118.1
95.2
107.3

0)

0)
.304
.423
.378
.247
.387
.432
.306

0)
14.87
21.19
18.71
12.55
20.47
22.72
16.83

0)
15.88
21.01
16. l i
12.33
24.16
21.68
18.04

5.3

50.8

51.5

101.4

.377

19.15

19.42

0)
0)

8

8

4.2

49.2

25.7

52.2

.331

16.29

8.50

0)
5.6
5.8
5.1
5.3
0)
4.6

0)
49.6
49.5
49.0
57.5
0)
54.9
(0

0)
61.7
52.8
49.1
54.7
0)
46.9

0)
124.4
106.7
100.2
95.1
0)
85.4

0)
.334
.470
.388
.317
0)
.402

0)
16.57
23.27
19.01
18.23
0)
22.07

0)
20.57
24.79
19.07
17.34
0)
18.82

0)

0)

0)
0)
55.1
(0

5.3
5.3
4.9
5.0
5.4
5.0
5.8

0)

8
6

0)

53.9
0)
53.3

112.8 $0.501 $27.76
116.5
.339 16.44
82.3
.470 22.89
(0
0)
(0
105.1
.296 15.18
0)
0)
0)
96.7
.388 21.38

5.8
4.9
4.4

(0

0)

8

0)

0)

8

0)

Total...................................... .
Calender tenders, male:
Connecticut............................. .
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
N ew York....................................
North Carolina.........................
Pennsylvania.............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina...........................

27

52

5.4

51.9

53.3

102.7

.394

20.45

20.96

3
8
17
10
11
8
10
5

45
111
76
62
35
20
104
54

4.7
5.1
5.3
4.6
5.5
5.3
4.8
5.5

53.9
49.8
51.7
49.0
54.0
53.3
53.0
55.6

44.8
52.9
53.1
41.9
50.9
55.1
45.2
57.8

83.1
106.2
102.7
85.5
94.3
103.4
85.3
104.0

.457
.339
.442
.414
.284
.425
.439
.274

24.63
16.88
22.85
20.29
15.34
22.65
23.27
15.23

20.48
17.91
23.49
17.35
14.45
23.43
19.84
15.83

Total.........................................
Color mixers, male:
Connecticut...... ..........................
Massachusetts-...........................
N ew Jersey..................................
N ew York....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

72

507

5.1

52.1

49.8

95.6

.383

19.95

19.06

4
7
6
1
8
1
9
3

21
42
36
0)
18
0)
62
40

5.2
5.3
5.3
0)
5.2
0)
5.1
5.1

55.5
50.0
49.8

57.9
59.8
52.9

.469
.328
.550

26.03
16.40
27.39

53.0
0)
53.4
55.0

54.2
0)
56.6
59.2

(l)

104.3
119.6
106.2
0)
102.3
(0
106.0
107.6

.319
0)
.396
.254

16.91
0)
21.15
13.97

27.18
19.62
29.09
0)
17.30
0)
22.42
15.01

Total..........................................

39

231

5.2 ’ 52.5

57.6

109.7

.387

20.32

22.28

i Data included in total.




0)

0)

0)

22

DYEING AND FINISHING OP TEXTILES, 1932

T a b l e A . — Average

number of days on which wage earners worked, average fulltime and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued

Occupation, sex, and State

N um ­
ber of Num ­
ber of
estab­
wage
lish­ earners
ments

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
w orked
in i
week

Aver­
Aver­
Aver­
Aver­ age Aver­
age
age
age
hours Percent age
full­
full­
actu­ of full earn­ time actual
time
earn­
ally
ings
earn­
hours worked time
ings
w orked per
ings
per
in 1
in 1
hour
per
week week
week week

Drier tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
N ew Jersey..................................
N ew York....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island........................... .
South Carolina......................... .

5
8
18
8
16
12
10
4

15
100
221
57
47
38
102
47

5.5
5.4
5.3
5.0
5.1
5.1
5.2
5.3

53.7
50.0
51.0
48.7
54.3
53.0
52.3
55.3

61.0
54.9
54.1
51.4
51.5
48.7
51.7
59.7

113.6 $0.392 $21.05
.332 16.60
109.8
.432 22.03
106.1
105.5
.383 18.65
94.8
.258 14.01
91.9
.446 23.64
98.9
.380 19.87
.241 13.33
108.0

627

5.2

51.6

53.6

103.9

.375

19.35

(9

<9
(9

(9

Total..........................................

81

Drier tenders, female:
N ew Jersey..................................
N ew York............. .................... .

1
1

(0
(0

0)
0)

(0
(0

$23.88
18.23
23.36
19.69
13.29
21.72
19.65
14.42
20.09

0)
(9

Total..........................................

2

16

3.8

48.3

31.4

65.0

.270

13.04

8.50

Dyeing-machine tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey................................
New Y ork...................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania........................... .
R hode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

3
7
18
9
18
12
10
3

38
132
658
71
94
181
175
44

5.2
4.9
5.2
6.4
4.7
4.7
4.8
5.2

53.8
49.1
50.1
48.7
53.2
52.0
51.5
55.0

53.3
50.1
51.5
51.5
48.8
44.5
45.5
55.5

99.1
102.0
102.8
105.7
91.7
85.6
.88.3
100.9

.418
.331
.439
.387
.266
.496
.443
.266

22.49
16.25
21.99
18.85
14.15
25.79
22.81
14.63

22.29
16.55
22.61
19.94
12.95
22.09
20.15
14.78

5.1

50.8

49.7

97.8

.415

21.08

20.61

Total...... ...................................

80

1,393

Engravers, hand, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

1
3
2
1
4
1

(0

T otal...................................... .

12

Engravers, machine, male:
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

4
1
1
4
1

Total...................... ..................

11

Floormen, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
N ew York....................................
N orth Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

1
5
17
8
8

5
4
1

8
7

0)

6.0
6.0

0)

<9

52.0

(9
(0

(9
95.8
(9

.901

(9
(9

48.92

(9
(9

46.90

99.4

1.021

51.66

51.37

92.5

1.127

54.43

50.34

54.3

28

5.5

50.6

50.3

5.3

48.3

44.7

0)

0)

0)

11

22

4.9
5.0

0)

0)

0)

0)

35
198
46
41
27
12

5.4
5.1
4.8
4.7
5.0
5.1

0)

52.99
55.29

<9
5.0
(0

7

(9

50.02
55.29

0)
8
0)

0)

0)

1.042
1.151

50.8
48.0

0)
0)

<9

105.8
100.0

48.0
48.0

(9)
(9

(9
(9

(9
(9

(1}
(9

84.0

.935

50.96

0)

0)
<9
45.8
(9

42.83

51.7

44.9

86.8

1.004

51.91

45.07

0)
(0

54.5

(0

(9

(9

(9

(9

(9

(9

(0

(9
h

(l)

(9

48.6
49.6
48.8
55.4
51.5
52.7

53.8
47.5
41.7
45.5
52.3
50.0

110.7
95.8
85.5
82.1
101.6
94.9

.351
.411
.371
.264
.330
.430

17.06
20.39
18.10
14.63
17.00
22.66

18.90
19.54
15.49
11.99
17.25
21.49

0)

0)

(9

(9

(9

(0

Total..........................................

49

366

5.1

50.4

47.8

94.8

.376

18.95

17.99

Folders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
N ew Jersey...................................
N ew Y ork....................................
North Carolina............................
Pennsylvania......... .....................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

3
8
7
6
13
8
10
4

11
90
50
35
57
24
99
39

5.6
5.1
5.5
4.8
5.3
5.3
5.2
5.8

54.1
49.0
51.6
48.5
53.9
50.6
52.8
55.0

57.3
45.3
56.4
38.7
48.8
47.6
48.3
59.8

105.9
92.4
109.3
79.8
90.5
94.1
91.5
108.7

.576
.477
.613
.533
.320
.436
.588
.408

31.16
23.37
31.63
25.58
17.25
22.06
31.05
22.44

33.00
21.61
34.57
20.62
15.61
20.77
28.40
24.42

Total..........................................

59

405

5.3

51.7

49.2

95.2

.498

25.75

24.47

i Data included in total.




23

WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR

A.— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full­
time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation sex, and State— Uontinued

T able

Occupation, sex, and State

Folders, female:
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
New York....................................
North Carolina...................... ___
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................
Total..........................................

N um ­ Num ­
ber of
of
estab­ ber
wage
lish­
earners
ments

3
10
1
5
5
2
26

39
54
0)

66
27
10
198

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
w orked
in 1
week
5.8
5.1
0)
4.4
4.6
5.4
4.9

48.0
48.1
0)
54.8
51.7
55.0
51.2

38.5
35.2

0)

(0
48.0
49.1
49.6
53.8
52.9
53.4
55.0
50.4

(0
48.8
47.6
44.1
46.3
52.6
44.4
60.2

Inspectors, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts—.........................
New Jersey.................................
N ew Y ork.................................. .
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania.............................
Rhode Island...............................
South C arolin a.--......................
Total..........................................

50

Inspectors, female:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts—..........................
New Jersey— .............................
N ew Y ork....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennyslvania...............................
Rhode Island.................... ..........
South Carolina............................
Total.....................................—

1
3
6
1
8
2
2
1
24

0)

0)

0)

0)

0)

(0

Jackmen, printing, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts......................... .
N ew Jersey................................
Pennsylvania............................ .
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................
Total..........................................

1
5
6
1
4
1
18

0)

Kettlemen, color mixing, male:
Connecticut_____ ____ _______
Massachusetts.............................
N ew Jersey................................ North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania................ .............
Rhode Island__________ ____
South Carolina__________ ____

1
4
11
5
11
8
6
4

0)

50
158
24
34
27
29
12

337

23
39

88
5
11

186

20
16

(0

20

0)

A ver­
Aver­ Aver­
Aver­
Aver­
age
age
age
age
Percent
hours
age
full­ actual
full­
of full earn­ time
time actu­
earn­
earn­
time
ings
ally
hours
ings
ings
per worked w orked per
in i
per
in 1
hour
week
week
week
week

5.4
5.3
5.3
5.2
5.6
5.2
5.9
5.4

5.8
5.2

(0

48.0
48.2

(9

<9

39.9
39.9
52.6
38.9

48.0

(0

(9

(9

(l)

41.6
38.0

<9

.322
.457
.390
.269
.448
.509
.261
.408

<9

86.7
78.8

.238
.336

85.5
99.6
94.4

.213
.349
.256

<9

$20.86
14.72
0)
7.60
14.20
8.64
13.14

0)

(0
15.46
22.44
19.34
14.47
23.70
27.18
14.36

15.69
21.77
17.19
12.42
23.57
22.60
15.69

20.56

19.60

(0

11.42
16.20

0)

0)

9.91
12.78

0)

5.3
5.8
5.6

55.2
52.8
54.0

47.2
52.6
51.0

(9

(9

<9

0)

5.3

52.2

44.5

85.2

.249

13.00

<9

.355
.480

17.15
23.47

21.77
19.11
23.95

0)

5.2
4.4
0)
5.1

0)

0)

C)

(0

11.76
18.43
13.82

0)

48.3
48.9

61.4
39.8

©
127.1
81.4

54.1

62.6

<9
(9

115.7

<9
(9

.383

<9
(9

20.72

(0
0)

0)

0)

10.08
18.32
13.08

0)

11.06

0)

0)
0)

64

5.0

51.0

56.7

111.2

.395

20.15

22.37

4
25
4
6

5.8
4.9
5.8
5.5
0)
4.9

55.0
48.5
48.0
55.0

61.3
55.7
48.8
54.0

111.5
114.8
101.7
98.2

55.0

100.5

<9
(9

.394

28.27
18.28
44.11
15.62
0)
21.55

31.51
21.01
44.88
15.33

54.7

(9
(9

.514
.377
.919
.284

56.5

110.4

.424

21.71

23.96

<9

0)
16.12
22.42
13.15

(0
18.48
18.18
11.12
0)
0)

T otal..........................................
Kettlemen’s helpers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts—..........................
New Jersey..................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island.................... .........
South Carolina............................

1
5
4
3
1
1
1

Total..........................................

16

90

4.9

51.3

50.8

Kier boilers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts........................... New Jersey..................................
New Y ork ...................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania..... .......................Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina...........................

3
8
6
7
11
7
10
3

5.7
5.2
5.6
5.0
5.1
5.5
5.4
5.5

Total..........................................

55

6
31
10
11
16
8
42
8
132

51.7
49.7
53.9
59.6
57.4
51.6
53.3
55.6
53.5

58.7
57.7
65.2
57.3
56.7
59.9
57.2
62.5
58.4




(9

101.7
96.9
88.9
86.1
99.4
83.1
109.5
95.2

2
5
4
4
1
5
1
22

1 Data included in total.

80.2 $0,541 $25.97
73.2
.418 20.11
(9
(9
0)
72.8
.190 10.41
77.2
.356 18.41
95.6
.164
9.02
76.0
.338 17.31

(9
10
0)

0)

(9
(9

52

5.1

51.2

33
17
30
0)

(0
5.1
4.5
4.9
(0

48.7
48.0
55.0

0)

to

(0

5.3

(9

(9
w
(9

<9

55.8
38.9
46.6
(0

(9
(9

<9

(9
(9

114.6
81.0
84.7
0)
v)
0)
99.0

.331
.467
.239
(i)
v)
(0
.320

113.5
116.1
121.0
96.1
98.8
116.1
107.3
112.4

.490
.356
.464
.403
.287
.521
.405
.325
.391

109.2

0)

(i)

O)
0)
16.42
25.33
17.69
25.01
24.02
16.47
26.88
21.59
18.07
20.92

0)
C1)

21.69

<9

16.24
28.76
20.56
30.24
23.11
16.28
31.24
23.18
20.35
22.83

24
T

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average fulltime and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1982, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued

able

Occupation, sex, and State

Knotters, female:
C onnecticu t...............................
Massachusetts___________ ____
New Jersey___________________
New Y ork____________________
North Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania_________________
Rhode Island_________________
South Carolina_______________
Total...................................... .

Num ­ N um ­
ber of
of
estab­ ber
wage
lish­
earners
ments

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
w orked
in 1
week

Aver­
Aver­ Aver­
Aver­
Aver­ age
age
age
age
Percent age
full­
full­ hours
actu­ of full earn­ time actual
earn­
time
earn­
ally
time
ings
ings
hours worked w orked per
ings
per
in 1
hour
per
in 1
week week
week
week

1
3
4
6
4
1
4
1

0)
21
12
22
21
(0
33
(0

(0
6.0
4.0
5.2
5.3
0)
5.3
0)

0)
48.0
50.7
47.9
54.5
0)
53.1
(0

0)
47.6
37.2
42.2
48.3
0)
44.8
(0

0)
(0
0)
99.2 $0,297 $14.26
73.4
.305 15.46
88.1
.276 13.22
88.6
.227 12.37
0)
0)
(0
84.4
.264 14.02
0)
0)
0)

(0
$14.16
11.34
11.65
10.96
0)
11.83
0)

24

118

5.3

51.4

45.4

88.3

.267

13.72

12.12

Mangle tenders, male:
Connecticut.............................. .
Massachusetts...........................
New Jersey................................
N ew York___ ______ _________
N orth Carolina..........................
Pennsylvania..... ............ ............
Rhode Island.................. ............
South Carolina.................. ........

2
5
12
8
11
8
9
4

15
43
131
69
49
15
93
55

5.0
5.0
5.6
4.6
5.5
5.1
5.3
5.2

52.7
49.0
51.4
48.6
54.4
52.4
51.4
55.2

49.6
49.3
52.3
41.7
54.9
49.1
52.7
59.4

94.1
100.6
101.8
85.8
100.9
93.7
102.5
107.6

.448
.320
.428
.390
.273
.429
.392
.254

23:61
15.68
22.00
18.95
14.85
22.48
20.15
14.02

22.21
15.79
22.37
16.26
14.95
21.02
20.67
15.08

Total.........................................

59

470

5.2

51.6

51.5

99.8

.366

18.89

18.86

Mangle tenders, female:
New York...................................

1

5

3.6

49.5

34.6

69.9

.241

11.93

8.35

Measurers, male:
N ew Jersey..................................
New Y ork_____ _____ ________
N orth Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania_________________
Rhode Island_________________
South Carolina...........................

1
3
3
3
3
4

3
18
3
9
30

0)
4.3
5.1
4.7
5.3
5.8

0)
46.7
54.2
50.0
52.7
55.0

(0
41.4
46.1
40.3
55.0
58.3

0)
88.7
85.1
80.6
104.4
106.0

0)
.372
.282
.405
.349
.310

0)
17.37
15.28
20.25
18.39
17.05

0)
15.42
13.00
16.35
19.19
18.05

Total..........................................

17

67

5.5

53.4

53.1

99.4

.323

17.25

17.14

Measurers, female:
Connecticut_______ __________
Massachusetts—.........................
N ew York____________________
North Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania_________________
Rhode Island____ ____________

1
2
1
1
1
2

0)
48.0
0)
0)
0)
48.0

(0
45.1
(0
0)
0)
46.1

(0
94.0
0)
0)
0)
96.0

(0
.399

0)
19.15
0)

6

0)
5.7
0)
0)
0)
4.8

(0
(0
.451

0)
21.65

0)
17.99
W
0)
0)
20.79

8

35

5.3

50.8

46.9

92.3

.356

18.08

16.69

2
4
6
4
4
4
6
2

6
9
16
4
5
17
23
7

5.0
5.3
5.4
5.0
5.6
5.9
5.3
5.3

52.5
48.7
51.7
49.1
57.0
53.7
50.6
55.0

48.6
53.8
60.7
48.4
62.7
64.5
48.3
59.0

62.6
110.5
117.4
98.6
110.0
120.1
95.5
107.3

.442
.342
.479
.444
.366
.513
.407
.291

23.21
16.66
24.76
21.80
20.86
27.55
20.59
16.01

21.50
18.41
29.02
21.48
22.96
33.12
19.62
17.17

32

87

5.4

52.0

56.0

107.7

.430

22.36

24.07

22
42
30
8
11
19
11

(0
5.1
5.6
4.5
5.5
5.4
4.8
5.5

(0
48.5
48.8
48.5
54.4
53.5
50.7
55.0

0)
52.8
48.4
38.3
49.6
51.9
43.9
61.1

0)
108.9
99.2
79.0
91.2
97.0
86.6
111.1

0)
.339
.448
.405
.262
.475
.448
.249

(0
16.44
21.86
19.64
14.25
25.41
22.71
13.70

0)
17.92
21.68
15.49
13.00
24.62
19.68
15.24

144

5.1

50.1

47.6

95.0

.394

19.74

18.77

T otal_________ _____________
Mercerizers, male:
Connecticut__________________
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
N ew Y ork....................................
North Carolina...................... .
Pennsylvania......................... .
Rhode Island..............................
South Carolina...........................
Total.................................... .
Openers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey.................................
N ew Y ork ....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island..............................
South Carolina...................... .

1
6
18
8
4
7
5
3

Total..........................................

52

1 Data included in total.




(0

0)

12

0)
0)
(0

0)

25

WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR

A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full­
time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per­
cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued

T able

Occupation, sex, and State

N um ­ N um ­
ber of ber of
estab­ wage
lish­ earners
ments

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
worked
in 1
week

Aver­
age
full­
time
hours
per
week

Aver­
Aver­
Aver­
Aver­
age
age
age
hours Percent age
full­ actual
actu­ of full­ earn­ time
earn­
ally
time
ings earn­ ings
ings
worked worked per
in 1
hour
per
in 1
week week
week

Packers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey—...............................
New Y ork....................................
North Carolina............................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina...........................

3
6
17
9
13
8
9
4

7
30
62
28
61
16
37
35

5.9
6.0
5.6
5.1
5.3
5.7
5.6
6.0

54.3
48.9
49.7
48.8
54.8
53.6
52.2
55.0

55.4
50.8
50.9
43.3
47.1
54.2
52.5
61.9

102.0 $0,474 $25. 74
103.9
.353 17.26
102.4
.439 21.82
.421 20.54
88.7
85.9
.266 14.58
101.1
.446 23.91
.438 22.86
100.6
112.5
.261 14.36

$26.23
17.90
22.32
18.25
12.53
24.18
22.97
16.14

Total..........................................

69

255

5.6

52.0

51.4

98.8

.367

19.08

18.86

Pilers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
North Carolina...........................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

2
5
3
9
2

11
45
5
60
14

4.3
5.3
3.6
5.0
4.9

54.5
48.0
53.0
52.5
55.0

39.1
49.2
34.6
45.2
54.1

71.7
102.5
65.3
86.1
98.4

.353
.278
.218
.347
.209

19.24
13.34
11.55
18.22
11.50

13.79
13.67
7.53
15.68
11.32

T otal.........................................

21

135

5.0

51.4

46.5

90.5

.303

15.57

14.10

Plaiters, male:
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey...................................
N ew Y ork....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina...........................

5
6
8
8
6
10
1

37
32
37
38
22
32

5.3
5.4
4.9
5.0
5.0
5.0

52.1
51.5
48.6
53.4
53.0
52.3

60.6
54.3
43.0
49.8
50.3
46.6

116.3
105.4
88.5
93.3
94.9
89.1

.308
.369
.325
.223
.351
.312

16.05
19.00
15.80
11.91
18.60
16.32

0)

(9

18.69
20.04
13.98
11.12
17.68
14.54

Total..........................................

44

202

5.1

51.8

51.1

98.6

.308

15.95

15.71

Plaiters, female:
N ew Y ork....................................

1

6

3.8

49.5

34.5

69.7

.240

11.88

8.28

Polishers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
T otal..........................................
Printing-machine tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts........................... .
N ew Jersey..................................
N ew Y ork....................................
North Carolina-.................... .
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

1
3
3
1
2

T otal..........................................
Roller turners, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

1
4
2
1
2
1

Total..........................................

11

Scutcher tenders, male:
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
Total..........................................

1
1
3
1
2




8

0)

<9

(9

(9

(0

13
7

6
30

10
3
6
6
1
o
1
6
1
26

1Data included in total.

<9

24
92
74

0)

(9

(0

<9

(9

(0

109.7
89.8

.350
.578

16.98
27.74

18.61
24.93

4.7
5.5

54.3
49.8

42.8
48.7

78.8
97.8

.422
.425

22.91
21.17

18.05
20.71

5.0
5.4
5.9

55.4
49.1
48.9
(0
50.4

52.5
57.0
50.0
0)
52.5
(l)
54.5

94.8
116.1
102.2

.975
1.063
1.070
0)
.330

54.02
52.19
52.32

51.21
60.59
53.45

16. 63

17.31

(9

(9

(9

(9

(9
5.0
(9

52.9

<9

(9

313

5.3

50.8

55.2

103.0
(0
108.7

(9

(9

0)

(9

9
3
5

26

5.3

(9

5.8
4.7

(9
4.6
(9
5.1

(9

7
24

(9

(9

48.8
48.0

47.2
38.0

54.6

40.1

(9

(9

104.2

(9

96.7
79.2

(9

(9

1.132
0)
1.019

<9

(9

(9

(9

(9
59.88
(9

(9
61.71
(9

51.77

56.23

(9

.404
.517

19.72
24.82

(9

19.05
19.66

(0

(9

(9

.425

<9

(9

23.21

<9

17.06

51.7

44.6

86.3

.398

20.58

17.73

(9
(9
(9

(9
(9
(9

73.4

(9

(9

(9
(9

(9
(9

5.7

53.3

55.3

8 8

103.8

.224

11.94

12.36

5.4
5.2

56.1
51.8

61.6
54.8

109.8
105.8

.338
.304

18.96
15.75

20.83
16.64

8 8
3

(9

53.2
43.1

(9
65
(9

<9

(9

48.5
48.0

6.0
5.3

(9

14

(9

(9

(9

(9

(9

8 8

(9

(9

26
T

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full­
time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per­
cent of full time worked, 1982, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued

able

Occupation, sex, and State

Sewers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
New Y ork....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

N um ­ Num ­
ber of
of
estab­ ber
wage
lish­
earners
ments

3
5
8
3
8
4
7
1

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
worked
in 1
week

5.0
5.2
5.3
5.2
5.2
5.4
5.5
0)
5.3

55.0
48.2
52.3
49.3
53.8
51.9
53.6
0)
51.0

48.0
51.0
52.8
45.4
49.2
58.4
56.4
0)
52.2

12
70
76
13
129
10
30
20
360

4.3
5.4
5.4
4.5
5.8
5.5
4.8
5.4
5.4

52.9
47.8
48.5
48.2
54.8
51.5
51.2
55.0
51.4

40.9
39.3
42.8
36.9
52.6
49.5
40.5
54.4
46.0

77.3
82.2
88.2
76.6
96.0
96.1
79.1
98.9
89.5

.309
.244
.330
.330
.252
.335
.336
.222

2
8
10
5
8
5
7
3
48

4
32
25
5
18
13
18
12
127

5.0
5.3
5.6
5.2
5.2
4.6
5.2
5.4
5.3

51.3
49.2
49.7
48.7
55.0
53.6
51.9
55.8
51.6

50.6
49.6
54.6
47.8
51.0
46.2
47.5
60.8
51.1

98.6
100.8
109.9
98.2
92.7
86.2
91.5
109.0
99.0

5.6
5.1
5.2
0)

53.1
49.8
50.9
0)
0)
(0
53.3
55.0

68.3
53.8
56.1
0)
0)
0)
50.5
58.4

51.8

39

Total..........................................
Singers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
N ew Jersey..................................
New Y ork....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................
Total..........................................
Soaper tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
N ew Jersey..................................
N ew Y ork....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
R hode Island..............................
South Carolina............................

50

2
5
7
1
1
1
9
2

8
76
32
(l)
0)
0)
50
19

Total..........................................
Soap mixers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
Pennsylvania...............................
R hode Island...............................

28

198

Total..........................................
Sprinkler tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
New Y ork....................................
North Carolina...........................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

13

8
24

0)
5.5
5.6
0)
5.5
5.5

2
2
2
6
4
8
4

6
8
7
9
5
25
12

4.3
5.1
5.4
4.9
5.6
4.9
5.8

T otal..........................................
Steamer tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............- ..............
R hode Island...............................
South Carolina............................
Total..........................................

28

72

5.1

28
27

0)
4.6
5.0




87.3 $0,396 $21.78
105.8
.285 13.74
101.0
.436 22.80
92.1
.444 21.89
91.4
.231 12.43
112.5
.387 20.09
105.2
.355 19.03
0)
0)
(*)
102.4
.332 16.93

5
64
26
5
16
8
28
0)
154

Total........................................ Sewers, female:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
N ew Jersey..................................
N ew Y ork ....................................
N orth Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania...............................
R hode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

i Data included in total.

Aver­
Aver­ Aver­
Aver­
age
Aver­
age
age
age
Percent
hours
age
full­ actu­ of full­ earn­ full­ actual
time
time
earn­
earn­
ings
hours ally wtime
ings
orked per
ings
per worked
in 1
hour
in 1
per
week
week
week week

2
6
13
6
7
5
8
3

1
3
6
1
2

1
3
4
1
1
2
1
13

0)
(l)

4
10

0)
0)
0)

9

0)
71

h
5.3
4.9
5.2

h
5.4
0)
4.9

$19.00
14.51
23.02
20.15
11.36
22.60
20.02
(9
17.32

.277

16.35
11.66
16.01
15.91
13.81
17.25
17.20
12.21
14.24

12.64
9.59
14.13
12.21
13.28
16.60
13.58
12.06
12.73

.496
.300
.424
.499
.298
.537
.389
.237
.366

25.44
14.76
21.07
24.30
16.39
28.78
20.19
13.22
18.89

25.08
14.87
23.18
23.85
15.22
24.80
18.45
14.42

128.6
108.0
110.2
W
0)
0)
94.7
106.2

.406
.307
.406
0)
.402
.254

21.56
15.29
20.67
(9
P>
(9
21.43
13.97

27.70
16.53
22.77
(9
(9
(9
20.31
14.84

55.0

106.2

.350

18.13

19.23

0)
48.5
48.0
0)
54.0

0)
60.1
53.9
0)
60.9

0)
123.9
112.3
0)
112.8

0)
.343
.479
0)
.358

(9
16.64
22.99
(9
19.33

(9
20.62
25.81
(9
21.83

50.6

57.7

114.0

.403

20.39

23.24

53.3
48.3
52.1
47.3
53.0
53.3
56.3
52.4

42.5
59.0
48.4
42.3
54.6
48.8
61.1

79.7
122.2
92.9
89.4
103.0
91.6
108.5

22.65
15.36
22.40
16.60
14.47
20.20
12.95

51.0

97.3

.425
.318
.430
.351
.273
.379
.230
.338

17.71

18.05
18.74
20.82
14.84
14.90
18.48
14.03
17.26

0)
48.4
48.0
0)
0)
54.1
(l)
49.4

0)
47.9
47.4
(0
(9
65.8
0
51.4

(l)
99.0
98.8
0)
0)
121.6
0)
104.0

0)
.268
.443

(9
12.97
21.26
<9
(9
17.26
(9
17.04

(9
12.81
20.98
0)
(9
21.00
(9
17.72

h
.319
(9
.345

18.71

27

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR

Average number of days on which wage earners worked. average full­
time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hourj arid per­
cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued

T a b le A .—

Occupation, sex, and State

Swing tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
New Y ork....................................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina...........................

N um ­ N um ­
ber of
of
estab­ ber
wage
lish­ earners
ments

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
worked
in i
week

Aver­ Aver­
Aver­ Aver­
Aver­
age
age
age
age
full­ actual
full­ hours Percent age
earn­
actu­
of
full­
time
time
earn­
ings
ally
time
earn­
hours worked w orked per
ings
ings
per
in 1
hour
in 1
per
week week
week
week

2
5
2
8
3
8
1

22
49
5
21
6
51
0)

5.3
5.0
5.8
4.9
5.3
4.6
0)

55.0
49.6
52.4
48.1
51.9
53.8
0)

52.3
56.1
55.4
45.1
61.0
46.2
(0

T otal.........................................
Swing tenders, female:
New Jersey..................................
N ew Y ork....................................
Pennsylvania...............................

29

160

5.0

52.0

51.4

98.8

.336

17.47

0)
0)
0)

\l)
0)

(n
0)

0)
0)

0)
0)
0)

Total..........................................
Tenter-frame tenders, male:
Connecticut...... ................- ........
M assachusetts......................... -New Jersey..................................
New Y ork ....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina...........................

3

13

4.8

53.7

40.6

75.6

.275

14.77

11.18

4
7
17
10
10
7
10
4

22
146
452
69
54
38
123
66

5.6
5.2
5.5
5.1
4.9
5.4
5.1
5.6

54.5
50.0
50.8
49.1
53.0
53.3
53.4
55.8

65.9
55.2
51.9
50.5
47.0
58.9
50.9
64.5

120.9
110.4
102.2
102.9
88.7
110.5
95.3
115.6

.452
.320
.430
.378
.271
.428
.405
.261

24.63
16.00
21.84
18.56
14.36
22.81
21.63
14.56

29.78
17.65
22.33
19.10
12.73
25.23
20.63
16.80

Total..........................................
Tenter-frame tenders, female:
Connecticut............... .................
New Jersey..................................
New Y ork....................................
Pennsylvania...............................
Rhode Island...............................

69

970

5.3

51.5

53.3

103.5

.385

19.83

20.55

0)
15.89

0)
15.41

Total........... ..............................
Truckers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
New Y ork ....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island..............................
South Carolina...........................

9

1
1
1

1
3
1
2
2

0)
0
0)

<*)
0)
0)

95.1 $0,391 $21.51
113.1
.287 14.24
.381 19.96
105.7
.332 15.97
93.8
117.5
.373 19.36
.374 20.12
85.9
0)
0)
0)

$20.43
16.12
21.07
14.97
22.75
17.28
0)
17.30
0)
(1)
0)

0)

0)

0)
48.6

47.1

0)

0)
96.9

(9

0)

(0

0)

0)

76.8
90.7

0)
.327
(l)
.314
.302

16.92
15.52

13.00
14.09

32

5.3

(0

0)

4.7
5.1

53.9
51.4

41.4
46.6

75

4.9

50.5

43.8

86.7

.319

16.11

13.95

2
7
13
8
11
8
9
4

29
188
199
51
82
41
91
69

5.4
5.3
5.4
5.4
5.2
5.1
5.0
5.7

54.3
48.8
49.6
48.8
54.3
53.4
53.5
55.0

50.7
51.9
49.0
47.3
48.5
56.9
49.6
60.5

93.4
106.4
98.8
96.9
89.3
106.6
92.7
110.0

.430
.314
.429
.370
.236
.373
.361
.235

23.35
15.32
21.28
18.06
12.81
19.92
19.31
12.93

21.82
16.32
21.00
17.52
11.43
21.20
17.88
14.24

Total..........................................
T ub washers, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey..................................
New Y ork....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania..............................
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

62

750

5.3

51.2

51.2

100.0

.344

17.58

17.58

Total..........................................
Washer tenders, male:
Connecticut.................................
Massachusetts.............................
New Jersey.... ..............................
New York....................................
North Carolina...........................
Pennsylvania........................... ...
Rhode Island...............................
South Carolina............................

21

34

5.0

3
6
15
8
11
7
10
5

29
85
295
41
36
22
98
54

Total..........................................

65

660

*Data included in total.




11
14

1
5

(0

1
1
1
5
1

0)

6

12
9

0)

0)

4.8
4.7

0)
0)
7

C1)

0)

C)

0)

113.9
94.7

.308
.424

15.28
20.69

(0
W

0}

P>
0)
0)

v)

0)
0)
0)

110.5

(0

0)

50.8

55.3

108.9

5.2
5.2
5.1
5.0
5.0
5.2
5.4
5.4

53.4
48.2
51.1
48.9
54.2
52.1
52.1
55.2

51.4
53.0
51.2
45.3
50.7
54.3
50.2
61.1

5.2

51.4

51.8

0)

0)

56.5
46.2

0)
(1K
59.8
0)

5.3

0)

49.6
'48.8

0)

54.1

0)

.352

0)

17.42
19.59
i1)

0)

0)

0)

19.04
(l)

21.03
0)

.355

18.03

19.62

96.3
110.0
100.2
92.6
93.5
104.2
96.4
110.7

.428
.309
.437
.372
.248
.458
.369
.240

22.86
14.89
22.33
18.19
13.44
23.86
19.22
13.25

22.02
16.37
22.35
16.83
12.56
24.89
18.52
14.67

100.8

.378

19.43

19.58

28
T

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES. 1932

A . — Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full­
time and actual hours and earnings per weeky average earnings vet houry and per­
cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation sex, and State— Continued

able

Occupation, sex, and State

Num ­ N um ­
ber of ber of
estab­ wage
lish­ earners
ments

Average
days on
which
wage
earners
worked
in 1
week

Aver­
Aver­ Aver­
Aver­ age
Aver­
age
age
age
hours Percent age
full­
full­ actu­ of full­ earn­
time actual
time
ally
time
ings earn­ earn­
hours worked w orked per
ings
ings
per
in i
in 1
hour
per
week week
week
week

Yarn winders, male:
4

91

3.8

56.3

32.1

57.0 $0,346 $19.48

1
8
4

0)
270
66

0)
4.2
4.8

0)
53.8
52.6

(0
39.4
40.1

0)
73.2
76.2

0)
.250
.309

(0
13.45
16.25

(0
9.85
12.41

13

344

4.3

53.4

39.3

73.6

.262

13.99

10.29

Rhode Island_________________
South Carolina
................

4
8
18
9
25
12
10
5

233
1,247
2,126
334
675
223
737
360

5.5
5.3
5.3
5.2
5.1
5.4
5.4
5.9

54.8
48.9
50.4
48.9
54.6
52.0
52.8
55.1

54.3
50.4
48.4
45.8
49.2
56.1
51.9
64.2

99.1
103.1
96.0
93.7
90.1
107.9
98.3
116.5

.497
.392
.506
.464
.326
.529
.475
.296

27.24
19.17
25.50
22.69
17.80
27.51
25.08
16.31

26.98
19.76
24.49
21.27
16.08
29.70
24.66
19.01

Total..........................................

91

5,935

5.3

51.3

50.7

98.8

.441

22.62

22.34

M assachusetts________________
New Jersey___________________
New York— _________________
North Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania_________________
Rhode Island_________________
South Carolina_____________

3
7
18
8
14
6
10
5

59
407
500
76
212
103
216
106

5.3
5.7
5.3
4.7
4.7
5.2
5.3
5.8

54.4
48.0
48.7
48.8
54.8
50.6
53.4
55.0

49.3
44.4
41.0
39.6
42.7
47.9
44.7
60.3

90.6
92.5
84.2
81.1
77.9
94.7
83.7
109.6

.344
.269
.357
.290
.215
.359
.318
.213

18.71
12.91
17.39
14.15
11.78
18.17
16.98
11.72

16.97
11.94
14.63
11.48
9.17
17.21
14.20
12.86

Yarn winders, female:
New Jersey___________________
North Carolina_______________
Total

........................... ..........

Other employees, male:

New Y o r k ___________________

Other employees, female:

$11.08

Total _____________________

71

1,679

5.3

50.6

44.4

87.7

.298

15.08

13.22

All employees, male:
C on n ecticu t_________________
M assachusetts________________
New Jersey___________________
New York
_____ ___________
North Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania________________
Rhode Island_________________
South C arolin a ____________ _

5
8
18
10
25
12
10
5

618
3,174
5,298
1,063
1,610
865
2,447
1,130

5.3
5.3
5.3
5.1
5.0
5.1
5.2
5.6

54.5
49.0
50.3
48.9
54.4
52.2
52.9
55.2

54.0
52.1
49.8
45.7
48.3
53.4
50.8
61.2

99.1
106.3
99.0
93.5
88.8
102.3
96.0
110.9

.487
.379
.476
.417
.296
.497
.453
.278

26.54
18.57
23.94
20. 39
16.10
25.94
23.96
15.35

26.32
19. 76
23.69
19.07
14. 29
26. 56
23.03
17.01

Total............... ..........................

93

16,205

5.2

51.4

51.1

99.4

.418

21.49

21.37

All employees, female:
Connecticut _________________
M assachusetts________________
New Jersey _______________ _
New Y ork____________________
North Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania_________________
Rhode Island_____________ _ .
South C arolin a __________ __ .

3
7
18
9
20
9
10
5

81
577
741
154
797
204
337
150

5.1
5.7
5.2
4.5
4.8
5.0
5.2
5.7

54.1
48.0
48.7
48.7
54.5
51.7
52.9
55.0

48.1
43.2
40.6
38.4
43.7
44.6
44.2
58.5

88.9
90.0
83.4
78.9
80.2
86.3
83.6
106.4

.347
.286
.352
.285
.232
.338
.316
.210

18.77
13.73
17.14
13.88
12.64
17.47
16.72
11.55

16.67
12.34
14.28
10.95
10.15
15.07
13.99
12.28

T o t a l ._____________________

81

3,041

5.2

51.2

43.5

85.0

.291

14.90

12.65

All employees, male and female:
Connecticut__________________
Massachusetts________________
N ew Jersey___________________
New York_______________ ____
North Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania_________________
Rhode Island_________________
South Carolina_______________

5
8
18
10
25
12
10
5

699
3,751
6,039
1,217
2,407
1,069
2,784
1,280

5.3
5.3
5.3
5.0
4.9
5.1
5.2
5.6

54.4
48.9
50.1
48.9
54.4
52.1
52.9
55.1

53.3
50.8
48.7
44.8
46.8
51.7
50.0
60.9

98.0
103.9
97.2
91.6
86.0
99.2
94. 5
110.5

.472
.367
.463
.403
.276
.471
.439
.270

25.68
17.95
23.20
19.71
15.01
24.54
23. 22
14.88

25.20
18.62
22.53
18.04
12.92
24.37
21.94
16.45

Total__________________ ____

93

19, 246

5.2

51.3

49.9

97.3

.400

20.52

19.99

1 Pata included in total.




T a b le

B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State
Number of wage earners whose earnings per hour were—•

Occupation, sex, and State

45 $0.457
.339
111
.442
76
.414
62
.284
35
.425
20
.439
104
.274
54

16,
un­
der
18
cts.

5
8
18
8
16
12
10
4

15
100
221
57
47
38
102
47

.392
.332
.432
.383
.258
.446
.380
.241

1

1

30,
un­
der
35
cts.

16
1

45,
un­
der
50
cts.

2
13
9
16
4
6
36
1

27
15
20
28

7
2
38
7

8
2
6
6

3
18

10
33

13
35

50,
un­
der
60
cts.

60,
un.der
70
cts.

70,
un­
der
80
cts.

7

16

1

1

42

1

8

75

92

87

111

97

3

27

7
41
14
17

5
7
139
22

51
2

3
27
1

10
24

13
8

3
7

3

1

30

2
11
3
14
14

2
21
6
14
12
2
22
2

51

71

81

no

207

75

22

3

1

3

10
10
15
17
391
30

11

1

182
3

39

5

5

18

T otal_______________________

81

627

.375

1
1

13
3

.285
.223

3

T otal...........................................

2

16

.270

3

3

Dyeing-machine tenders male:
Connecticut__________________
M assachusetts________________
N ew Jersey. __ ______ __ __
N ew Y o r k . . ________________
N orth Carolina____ ____ ______

3
7
18
9
18

38
132
658
71
94

.418
.331
.439
.387
.266

1

42

2

32

33

6
46
5
9
21

5
26
34
29
6

80,
un­
der
90
cts.

90
cts.,
un­
der
$1

—

i— —

1

63
2
5
8
1
4
9

Drier tenders, female:
N ew Jersey___________________
N ew Y ork ____________________




40,
un­
der
45
cts.

35,
un­
der
40
cts.

$1, $1.10, $1.25, $1.50
un­
un­
un­ and
der
der
der over
$1.10 $1.25 $1.50

1

1
1
11

7

LABOR

.383

25,
un­
der
30
cts.

OP

507

T otal__________ __________

20,
un­
der
25
cts.

HOURS

72

Drier tenders, male:
Connecticut__________ ______
Massachusetts________________
N ew Jersey___________________
N ew Y ork ____________________
N orth Carolina_______________
Pennsylvania_________________
R hode Island_________________
South Carolina_______________

18,
un­
der
20
cts.

AND

3
8
17
10
11
8
10
5

14,
un­
der
16
cts.

WAGES

Calender tenders, male:
Cnrmp.r't.imit. ................
Massachusetts— _______
N ew Jersey______ _________
N ew Y o r k . . _______________ __
North Carolina.
__ _
Pennsylvania__
R hode Island_________ ______
South Carolina_____________ _

Aver­
N um ­ N um ­ age
ber of ber of earn­
12,
estab­ wage ings Un­ un­
lish­ earn­
der der
per
12
ers
ments
14
hour cts.
cts.

T a b le

B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued

Occupation, sex, and State

Number of wage earners whos^ ; >ti jr.n-s i . *
14,
un­
der
16
cts.

16,
un­
der
18
cts.

50,
un­
der
60
cts.

60,
un­
der
70
cts.

70,
un­
der
80
cts.

10
22

47
28

60
42

28
4

11

485

271

142

39

11

5
2
3
5
14

5
12
16
22
1
3
21

4
25
20
9

1
9
8

7
3
7
13

1
8
4
1
4
2
5
11

44

17

1

13
42

80

102

35

1

2
4

1

6
2

12
3

4

2
16

12
20

7

12
65
1

51

107

107

178

17

1

13

8

21

11
2
4

1

1

13

181 $0. 496
175
.443
44
.266
1,393

.415

3
8
7
6
13
8
10
4

11
90
50
35
57
24
99
39

.576
.477
.613
.533
.320
.436
.588
.408

Total
Folders, female:
Massachusetts
N ew Jersey
N ew Y ork
N orth Carolina
R hode Island
South Carolina

59

405

.498

9

39

18

43

36

3
10
1
5
5
2

39
54
0)
66
27
10

.541
.418
0)
.190
.356
.164

5

2

3
13

16

2

17

24

4
16
0)

5

3

2

26

198

.338

s

20

26

1
4
11
5 .
11
8
6
4

3
50
158
24
34
27
29
12

.429
.322
.457
.390
.269
.448
.509
.261

3

7

11
5

1

2

7

2

50

337

.408

4

22

30

38

Total




____ __

- _

(9

21
1

5

2
11

1

5

2

1

27

7

29

17

26

9

2

8

13

7

21

1
2

1
3
77
1

57
3

3
23
1

1
1

2
1

5
5

9
8

7

j
1

85

71

44

9

3

5
10

14
3
4
7
31

1
16

1

90
cts.,
un­
der
$1

$1, $1.10, $1.25, $1.50
un­
un­
un­
der
der
der and
$1.10 $1.25 $1.50 over

4

TEXTILES, 1932

80

80,
un­
der
90
cts.

OF

Total
Folders, male:
C onnecticut
Massachusetts
N ew Jersey
N ew York
N orth Carolina
Pennsylvania
R hode Island
South Carolina

T otal
Inspectors, male:
Connecticut
Massachusetts^
N ew Jersey
N ew York
N orth Carolina
Pennsyl vania
R hode Island
South Carolina

2

40,
un­
der
45
cts.

FINISHING

25,
un­
der
30
cts.

30,
un­
der
35
cts.

were—

45,
un­
der
50
cts.

35,
un­
der
40
cts.

18, 20,
un­ un­
der der
25
20
cts. i cts.

AND

12
10
3

A ver­
age
12,
earn­ Un­ un­
der der
ings
12
per
14
hour cts. cts.

DYEING

Dyeing-m achine tenders, male—
Continued.

N um ­ N um ­
ber of ber of
estab­ wage
lish­ earn­
ments
ers

CO
O

Inspectors, female:
Connecticut____
Massachusetts...
N ew Jersey___
N ew Y ork...........
N orth Carolina..
Pennsylvania.__
R hode Island___
South C arolin aTotal..

1
3
6
1
8
2
2
1

0)
23
39
12
88
5
11
7

0)
.238
.336
.301
.213
.349
.256
.155

3

1

25

12

1

2

3

1

4

3

28

13

.448
.320
.428
.390
.273
.429
.392
.254

Total____________

59

470

.366

3
6
6
1
2
1
6
1

24
92
74
4
14
17
65
23

.975
1.063
1.070
1.309
.330
1.475
1.132
.417

26

313

1.019

3’
5
8
3
8
4
7
1

5
64
26
5
16
8
28
(!)

.396
.285
.436
.444
.231
.387
.355
0)

39

154

.332

Printing-machine tenders, male:
Connecticut______ _________
Massachusetts______________
N ew Jersey_________________
N ew Y ork______ ___________
N orth Carolina_____________
Pennsylvania______ ________
R hode Island_______________
South Carolina_____________
Total..
Sewers, male:
Connecticut____
Massachusetts__
N ew Jersey_____
N ew Y ork______
N orth Carolina..
Pennsylvania___
R hode Is la n d ....
South Carolina..
T ota l...

46

43

30

1

19

26
1
86

17

19

1

24

22

4
11
11
10
2
26
7

1

42

60

71

15

4

2
17
8
30
2

10
1
74
25
1
6
19

3

136

5

6
9

1
13

52

22

1

7
2

7

1

1

2
2
4

7

2

1

3

4

4

1
3

5
6

2

3
1

10

5

5

11

8

20

10

46

4
1

3
3
1

1

9

15
2

1
2
7
3

4
2
4

1
7

2
10

5

2
1

1
1

56

13

19

23

16

4

12
0)

3

1
33
3

1
3

3
26
45
3

2
18
8
1

3
2

2
27

6
14

9

7
19

106

49

14

2
21
1

2
10
6

2
5
5

5

4

29

22

3

4

LABOR

15
43
131
69
49
15
93
55

2

OF

2
5
12
8
11
8
9
4

7

1
3

11

HOURS

.249

18

21
2
3
2
2

AND

186

0)

1
4
10
26

WAGES

24

M angle tenders, male:
Connecticut_______
Massachusetts_____
N ew Jersey________
N ew Y ork _________
North Carolina____
Pennsylvania_____
R hode Island______
South Carolina____

21

2

0)
22

* For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total.




CO

T a b l e B . — Average

and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued
Number of wage earners whose earnings per hour were—

Occupation, sex, and State

.277

146
452
69
54
38
123

22

66

.452
.320
.430
.378
.271
.428
.405
.261

970

.385

Tenter-frame tenders, female:
Connecticut........................
New Jersey..........................
N ew Y ork____ ___________
Pennsylvania........... .........
Rhode Island......................
Total..

75

.319

29
188
199

.314
.429




45

40

21

95

118

63

35
4
1
292
15

51

33
126

.438
.327
.240
.314
.302

Truckers, male:
Connecticut___
MassachusettsN ew Jersey____

128

44

10

un­
der
70
cts.

70,
un­
der

80,
un­
der
90
cts.

90
cts.,
un­
der

$1

$ 1.
un­
der

$1.10, $1.25,

un­
un­ $1.50
der and
der
$1.10 $1.25 $1.50 over

162

349

17

24

17

20

20
13
122

TEXTILES, 1932

360

50,
un­
der
60
cts.

OF

Total..

50

45,
un­
der
50
cts.

FINISHING

Total............... .
Tenter-frame tenders, male:
Connecticut____________
Massachusetts-............ .
N ew Jersey______ ______
N ew Y ork ......... ............ .
North C arolin a...............
Pennsylvania.................
R hode Island....................
South Carolina .................

12 $0,309
70
.244
76
.330
13
.330
129
.252
10
.335
30
.336
.222
20

40,
un­
der
45

AND

Sewers, female:
Connecticut____
Massachusetts...
N ew Jersey.........
N ew Y ork______
North Carolina..
P ennsylvania....
R hode Island..
South Carolina..

35,
un­
der
40
cts.

DTElNG

N um ­ N um ­ A ver­
age
ber of ber of
estab­ wage earn­ Un­
ings
lish­ earn­
der
per
ments
12
ers
hour
cts.

8
11
8
9
4

51
82
41
91
69

.370
.236
.373
.361
.235

Total...................

62

750

.344

Washer tenders, male:
Connecticut..........
Massachusetts—
N ew Jersey______
N ew Y ork_______
N orth Carolir»a___
Pennsylvania____
Rhode Island........
South Carolina. __

3
6
15
8
11
7
10
5

29
85
295
41
36
22
98
54

.428
.309
.437
.372
.248
.458
.369
.240

9

12
10
5
43

47
2

6
16
4

3

39

26

3

91

135

139

40

9

16

17

20
22
1

6
17

3
6

1
3

111

195

51

16

15
24
14
21

8
1
167
12

2
32

3

2

1

93

11
1

2

5
12

6
7

5
7

2

5

1
7

13

12

18
23

13

36

89

69

108

205

109

26

19

6

4

12

27

21

2

660

.378

4

91

.346

Y a m winders, female:
N ew Jersey______
N orth C arolina.._
Pennsylvania____

1
8
4

8
270
66

.245
.250
.309

12

12

17

7

22

4
70
9

55
4

4
44
42

28
11

3

13

344

.262

12

12

17

7

22

83

59

90

39

3

Total__________

T otal__________

OF
LABOR




HOURS

65

Y a m winders, male:
N orth Carolina—_

AND

1
23

20
8
5
6
2
22
6

WAGES

N ew Y o r k ............
N orth Carolina—
Pennsylvania____
R hode Island........
South Carolina.

00
00

34
T

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

able

C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupa­
tions, 1982, by sex and State

N um ­ N um ­
ber of ber of
Occupation, sex, and State estab­ wage
lish­ earn­
ments
ers

Calender tenders, male:
Connecticut__________
Massachusetts________
N ew Jersey___________
N ew Y ork____________
North Carolina_______
Pp.rinsyl vania
_
Rhode Island_________
_______
Total...........................
Drier tenders, male:
Connecticut
Massachusetts ........
N ew Jersey___________
N ew York____________
North Carolina........... .
Pfinnsylvanift. _____ _
Rhode
_________
Island
South Carolina_____ ...

Aver­
age
full­
time
hours
per
week

45
53.9
3
8
111
49.8
76
17
51.7
62
10
49.0
11
35
54.0
20
53.3
8
104
10
53.0
5
South 54
Carolina
55.6
72

507

52.1

5
8
18
8
16
12
10
4

15
100
221
57
47
38
102
47

53.7
50.0
51.0
48.7
54.3
53.0
52.3
55.3

627

51.6

8

8

Total...........................

81

Drier tenders, female:
N ew Jersey___________
N ew Y ork____________

1
1

T otal.__ . . . . . . . . . __

2

16

48.3

Dyeing-machine tenders,
male:
Connecticut_____ ____
Massachusetts________
N ew Jersey_____ - _- _
N ew Y ork......................
North Carolina_______
Pennsylvania______ i _
Rhode Island_________
South Carolina_______

3
7
18
9
18
12
10
3

38
132
658
71
94
181
175
44

53.8
49.1
50.1
48.7
53.2
52.0
51.5
55.0

T otal_______________

80

1,393

50.8

11
90
50
35
57
24
99
39

54.1
49.0
51.6
48.5
53.9
50.6
52.8
55.0

Total............... ............

59

405

51.7

Folders, female:
Massachusetts________
New Jersey___________
New Y ork____________
North Carolina_______
Rhode Island............. .
South Carolina_______

3
10
1
5
5
2

39
54
0)
66
27
10

48.0
48.1
(0
54.8
51.7
55.0

T otal...........................

26

198

51.2




Un­
der
48

3
5

Over
48,
48 un­
der
50

74
28
14

2
17

50

10
15
13
25
7
3

Over
50,
un­
der
54

2
1
13

54

55

Over
55,
un­
der
60

60

35
18
2

4
4

1
61

28
2
10
47

9
7

17

Over
60

5
1

8

16

16

132

19

73

16

79

142

24

6

2
3

47
148
25

3
18

4
38
5
11
12
7

4

14

11
12
3

3
38

4

9

77

13

2
12

18

19

238

21

6

9
58

28
9
8
44

1
2
6
3

81

115

6

53

4

62

19

(0

Folders, male:
Connecticut__________
3
Massachusetts________
8
7
New Jersey___________
New Y ork____________
6
N orth Carolina_______
13
Pennsylvania_________
8
Rhode
_________
Island 10
4
South Carolina_______

*Data included in total.

Number of wage earners whose full-time hours per
week were—

0)
13

12
7

3

84
482 "*16"
35
19

28
26

40

73

625

51

5

68
15
14

5
6

12

6

17

103

3

39
49
0)

9
37
24
13
25
8
2
42
20 "6 0 " ""§4"
95
140

29
11
5
43
28
8
44

5

4
11
6

5

83

75

154

168

14

6

9
10
10

2
12

13

10
12
3

4

2
60

45
2
21
39

24

39

18

68

136

2
2

64

7

20
10

10

90

2

2

20

74

19

35

WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR
T able

C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupa­
tions t 1982, by sex and State— C o n t in u e d

N um ­
ber of
Occupation, sex, and State estab­
lish­
ments

N um ­
ber of
wage
earn­
ers

Aver­
age
full­
time
hours
per
week

Inspectors, male:
fJnnTiftOttantf
Massachusetts _
N ew Jersey___________
N ew Y ork____________
North Carolina
Pennsylvania
_ _
Rhode Isla n d .,
....
South Carolina

1
4
11
5
11
8
6
4

0)
50
158
24
34
27
29
12

0)
48.0
49.1
49.6
53.8
52.9
53.4
55.0

Total............................

50

337

50.4

Inspectors, female:
Connecticut - Massachusetts..............
New Jersey_______ ___
N ew Y ork____________
North Carolina .
Pennsylvania Rhode Tsland
....
South Carolina_______

1
3
6
1
8
2
2
1

0)
23
39
0)
88
5
11
0)

0)
48.0
48.2
0)
55.2
52.8
54.0
(0

Total............................

24

186

52.2

Mangle tenders, male:
Connecticut__________
Massachusetts________
New Jersey___________
New Y ork____________
North Carolina_______
Pennsylvania_________
Rhode Island_________
South Carolina

2
5
12
8
11
8
9
4

15
43
131
69
49
15
93
55

52.7
49.0
51.4
48.6
54.4
52.4
51.4
55.2

Total...........................

Number of wage earners whose full-time hours per
week were—

Un­
der
48

48

49
131
4

2
4
20

14

26

140

55.4
49.1
48.9
0)
50.4
0)
52.9
0)

0)

4

141

1

58
12

154

51.0

*Data included in total.




36

19

39

3

6

26
3

47

6

85

3
25

24
92
74
0)
14
(0
65
0)

39

3
26

10

0)

25
71
30

3
6
6
1
2
1
6
1

Total_______________

Over
60

3

4
(0

Printing-machine tenders,
male:
Connecticut__________
Massachusetts
New Jersey_______ ___
N ew York
North Carolina_______
Pennsylvania____
Rhode Island_________
South Carolina_______

55.0
48.2
52.3
49.3
53.8
51.9
53.6
0)

60

1

1

49. 5

5
64
26
5
16
8
28
0)

3

73

5

3
5
8
3
8
4
7
1

Over
55,
un­
der
60

11

1

50.8

55

0)

19

1

51.6

313

54

1
6
19
8
2

23
38
0)

470

26

Over
50,
un­
der
54

12
187

59

Total........................-

2
1

50

3

Mangle tenders, female:
N ew York

Sewers, male:
Connecticut
Massachusetts
New J e r s e y ..____ ___
New York
North Carolina. _____
Pennsylvania________
Rhode Island
South Carolina

Over
48,
un­
der
50

28

4
7
17
8
10
10
5

57

5

5

12

93

21

8
1
2

3

24
6

3
48

33
2
9
53

72

108

6

2
2
28

5

23

15

67
67

8

13
7

2
5

(0

1
2

1

10

2

46
0)

17

38

3

6
5
2
4
2

54

52

4

3

6

1

5
1
12
6

4
1

74

3

19

6

20

2
0)

2

20

22

8

1

36

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

T a b l e C . — Average

and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupa­
tions, 1982, by sex and State— Continued

N um ­
ber of
Occupation, sex, and State estab­
lish­
ments

N um ­
ber of
wage
earn­
ers

Aver­
age
full­
time
hours
per
week

Number of wage earners whose full-time hours per
week were—

Un­
der
48

48

Over
48,
un­
der
50

50

Over
50,
un­
der
54

Sewers, female:
Connecticut.
. ___
Massachusetts________
N ew Jersey___________
N ew Y ork____________
North Carolina_______
Pp.nnsylva.nia
___
■Rhndft Island
_ ___
South Carolina
. ,

2
6
13
6
7
5
8
3

12
70
76
13
129
10
30
20

52.9
47.8
48.5
48.2
54.8
51.5
51.2
55.0

T otal...........................

50

360

51.4

4
7
17
10
10
7
10
4

22
146
452
69
54
38
123
66

54.5
50.0
50.8
49.1
53.0
53.3
53.4
55.8

69

970

51.5

1
3
1
2
2

0)
32
(V
14

(0
48.6
(0
53.9
51.4

4
4

22

13

10

3

141
150
20

2
18

4
35
15
10
14
1

31

6

9

9

320

20

79

2
2

80
207
11

3
21

9
3
6
7
8
3

16

36

18

T e n te r-fra m e t e n d e r s ,
male:
M assachusetts
___
N ew Jersey___________
North Carolina ... ___
Rhode Tslaiid .

.. ..

T otal_______________
Tenter-frame tenders, fe­
male:
Connecticut____ _____
N ew Jersey
__ _
N ew Y ork____________
Pennsylvania - _____
Rhode Island_________

5
5
1
1

65
65
7

6

5

13

4
5

4
19

142

10

14

3

28

150

79
326
13

5
26

2
45
8
24
25
5

5
1

17

20
12
3

31

109

60 Over
60

123

54.3
48.8
49.6
48.8
54.3
53.4
53.5
55.0

Total_______________

62

750

51.2

3
6
15
8
11
7
10
5

29
85
295
41
36
22
98
54

53.4
48.2
51.1
48.9
54.2
52.1
52.1
55.2

65

660

51.4

. 4

91

56.3

1
8
4

0)
270
66

0)
53.8
52.6

8

13

344

53.4

8

1
12

15

17

313

0)

28

34

24

1
80

5

98

123

5

4

7
10

4

17

5

20

25
12
2

2
14
10
97

23

7

3

4
54

66
2
13
69

2
3
9

31

78

189

21

3

2

10

20
2
6

47

12

2

1
61

26
1
10
52

72

117

51

67

24

204

66
66

21

0)

58
8

10
63

24
2
6
56

10
0)

29
188
199
51
82
41
91
69




1

22

2
7
13
8
11
8
9
4

1 Data included in total.

6
1

434

50.5

T o t a l .____________

4

16

75

Y a m winders, female:
N ew Jersey___________
North Carolina_______
Pennsylvania_________

5

16

9

Yarn winders, male:
North C a r o lin a .____

2

1
5

Over
55,
un­
der
60

7

2

7

Total_______________

T otal_______________

55

20

Truckers, male:
Connecticut__________
Massachusetts __
N ew Jersey— _______
N ew York
North Carolina_______
Pennsylvania__ ______
R hode Island ______
South Carolina. ____

Washer tenders, male:
Connecticut
_______
M assachusetts..
___
N ew Jersey___________
N ew York
. .. _
N orth Carolina.
__
Pennsylvania_________
Rhode Island_________
South Carolina_______

54

58

204

2
12

T a b le

D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State

Occupation, sex, and State

44.8
52.9
53.1
41.9
50.9
55.1
45 *>
57.8
49.8

5
8
18
8
18
12
10
4

15
100
221
57
47
38
102
47

61.0
54.9
54.1
51.4
51.5
48.7
51.7
59.7

_______________

1

1
3
1

1

8

6

20

52

24

29

63

4

1

2
4
2
1
1

3
5
1

1

2
3
2

4

1

6
1

2
2
9

5

9
2

4
10
1
I
4
4

1

1
6
1

2
2
2
2
4
4

1
4
21
5
3
3
8
2

11

14

17

26

16

24

47

1

2

16

3
20
16
7
4
1
8
4

6

31.4

2

9
11
6
1
1
1

2

1

T otal__________________

6

1
1
4
8
3

44,
un­
der
48

2

2

13
3

2

10
7
2
18
1
2
U
1

40,
un­
der
44

1

2

1
1

3

36,
un­
der
40

11

29.5
40.0

53.6

1

32,
un­
der
36

3

7

627

28,
un­
der
32

7

7

81

24,
un­
der
28

1

2

T otal................................
Drier tenders, female:
N ew Jersey_____________
N ew Y ork ..........................




20,
un­
der
24

6

4

.....

6
1

1

48

11

Over 52,
48, un­
un­ der
der 54
52

5
8
3
1
8

3
2
3
2

54

1

12

4
4

Z
1
1

3

23

33

15

4

1
2
1
2

4
6
3

6

.....

3

9
15
7
6
1
13

9

51

24

1

2

1

2

5
3

1
1
9

Over
54, 58,
un­ un­
der der
60
58

60

12
13
9
2
15
3
5
13

1
12
4
1

2
1

2
3
3

9
3

72

26

16

4
22
25
4
7
4
4
3

3
13
32

6
2

4
6
6

1
4
4

73

71

18

1

Over
60, 65,
un­ un­
der der
70
65

7
4
6

70,
80
un­ and
der over
80

11
7

1
3
1

2
4
19

8
7
2
1
2
12
3

2
1
2

1

42

35

23

6

3
2
g
10
15
19
5
2
5
7
4
5 "ii”
8
10

2
9
32
6

57

67

55

'l
11
6

1
5
6
2
1
16

LABOR

507

Total

16,
un­
der
20

OF

72

Drier tenders, male:
Connecticut_____________
Massachusetts__________
N ew Jersey_____________
N ew Y ork _______________
N orth Carolina_________
Pennsylvania______ _____
R hode Island___________
South Carolina__________

1
1

12,
un­
der
16

HOURS

45
111
76
82
35
20
104
54

8,
un­
der
12

AND

3
8
17
10
11
8
10
5

Number of wage earners whose hours actually worked in 1 week were—

WAGES

Calender tenders, male:
Connecticut_____________
Massachusetts__________
N ew Jersey_____________
N ew Y o r k ______________
N orth Carolina__________
Pennsylvania___________
Rhode Island___________
South Carolina__________

Aver­
age
ber of ber of hours
estab­ wage actually Un­ 4,
lish­ earn­ worked
der un­
ments
ers
in 1
der
4
week
8

3
2

1

4

1

3

00

T a b le

D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, T>y sex and State—Continued

Occupation, sex, and State

53.3
50.1
51.5
51.5
48.8
44. 5
45. 5
55. 5

1

1

1,393

49.7

3
8
7
6
13
8
10
4

11
90
50
35
57
24
99
39

57.3
45.3
56.4
38.7
48.8
47.6
48.3
59.8

1
3

5

1
14
1
2
6
1
25

20,
un­
der
24

4

16

13
2

2
3

7
6

10
10
1

21

28

46

10

2
3
3
1

3
3
2*
12

2

1
1
3

1

28,
un­
der
32

32,
un­
der
36

9
16

2
9
4
9
14

10
15
2
2
7
15

38

51

1

7
3
3
8

8

5

5

2

6
4
16

2
6
33
6
4
19
14
2

5
14
82
2
13
10
33

5
5
1
2
1

31
98
16
17
18
17
10

54

86

159

14

207

71

5
1
1
1
3
5

5
2
7
4
3
1
2

2
1
7
2
9
13

12

3
8
1
1
10
3
11
1

9
1
6
1
5
8
1

38

—...
13
12

26

16

24

34

12

2

2

1
13

16
7

3
10

7
7

3
2

2

1
7

3

1
1
(0
1

7

3

21
2

4

3

2
8

10

5

37

27

2

3
10
1
5
5
2

39
54
0)
66
27
10

38.5
35.2
0)
39.9
39.9
52.6

T otal................................

26

198

38.9

5

5

1
1
7
1
2
2

48

11

49.2

2
6
42
6
3
9

44,
un­
der
48

14

405

54

40,
un­
der
44

17

59

Over 52,
48,
un­ un­
der der
54
52

36,
un­
der
40

5

T otal__________________
Folders, female:
M assachusetts__________
N ew Jersey _ _________
N ew Y o r k .
__________
N orth Carolina__________
R hode Island___________
South Carolina
____




6

24,
un­
der
28

13

17

15

7

Over
54, 58,
un­ un­
der der
60
58

4
16
82
20
18
26
2
8

8
1
37
2
4
6
6
2

16

176

66

1
4

4
11
2

12
3

...... —...

60

Over
60, 65,
un­ un­
der der
70
65

70,
80
un­ and
der over
80

1
6
45
--

6
1

6
9
39
12
2
22
8
8

7
14
6

1
12

17

106

86

104

1
1
14

1

1

3

13

2
"T
i

1
10
78

.....

1
2
-

4

27

1

5
1

9
10

4
4

9
3

9
8

1
2
2

1

7

31

11

63

24

12

34

12

18

1

5

1
1

1

7
1
6

4
4
2

5

19

12

6

1

18
2
18

2

OF TEXTILES, 1932

80

Folders, male:
Connecticut__ ___________
M assachusetts__________
N ew Jersey ____________ ‘
N ew Y o r k ______________
North Carolina__________
Pennsylvania __________
R hode Island __________
South Carolina__________

1

16,
un­
der
20

FINISHING

38
132
658
71
94
181
175
44

12,
un­
der
16

AND

T otal__ - _____________

3
7
18
9
18
12
10
3

Number of wage earners whose hours actually worked in 1 week were—

DYEING

D yeing-m achine
tenders,
male:
Connecticut_____________
M assachusetts__________
N ew Jersey______________
N ew Y ork
__________
N orth Carolina__________
Pennsylvania
_______
R hode Island __________
South Carolina__________

Aver­
N um ­ N um ­
age
ber of ber of hours
estab­ wage actually Un­ 4,
8,
un­ un­
lish­ earn­ worked
der der der
in 1
ments
ers
4
12
8
week

Inspectors, male:
Connecticut........
M assachusetts..
N ew Jersey.........
New Y o r k ..........
N orth Carolina .
Pennsylvania. _.
Rhode I s la n d ...
South C arolin aT ota l.

48.0

0)
23

0)
41.6
38.0
39.8
47.2
52.6
51.0
50.0

15
43
131

49.6
49.3
52.3
41.7
54.9
49.1
52.7
59.4

52.5
57.0
50.0
50.5
52.5
69.2
54.5
6L5

26

55.2

33

0)

...
...

11
3
5

12

*

65

16

27

26

13

28
15
1
4

3
10
19
7
5
2
15
1

11

2
13

17

20

12"
2

29

5
11
10
1

12

10
1
1
2
1
13

44

1
2
10

17

14

23

1
1
13
2
1
1

27

35

2
2
5
6
15
3
10

62

49

19
62

7
25
1

1
4
10

18

3
10
2
1

10
7

7

33

34

2
18

10
1

81

14

12
1

14

LABOR

Printing - machine tenders,
male:
Connecticut...................... .
Massachusetts...................
N ew Jersey.............. .........
N ew Y ork .............. ...........
North C arolina-............. .
Pennsylvania____ ______
R hode Island____ ______
South Carolina..................

51.5

22

1
7
12
3
7
5
9

OF

44.5

27

8
22

HOURS

186

470

T otal-

Total _

337

15
2
1
1
3

AND

T o ta l.
Mangle tenders., male:
Connecticut...............
Massachusetts..........
N ew Jersey................
N ew Y o rk ............ .
N orth Carolina_____
Pennsylvania............
Rhode Island............
South Carolina_____

50.2
48.8
47.6
44.1
46.3
52.6
44.4
60.2

WAGES

Inspectors, female:
Connecticut____
Massachusetts ._
New Jersey.........
N ew Y ork ______
North Carolina.
Pennsylvania__
Rhode I s la n d ...
South C arolin a-

3
50
158
24
34
27
29
12

10
8
8

17

27

1 For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in totaL




CO

CO

T a b l e D . — Average

Occupation, sex, and State

and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued
Number of wage earners whose hours actually worked in 1 week were—

8,
un­
der
12

12,
un­
der
16

16,
un­
der
20

5
64
26
5
16
8
28
0)

48.0
51.0
52.8
45.4
49.2
58.4
56.4
0)

1

3

39

164

52.2

2
6
13
6
7
5
8
3

12
70
76
13
129
10
30
20

40.9
39.3
42.8
36.9
52.6
49.5
40.5
54.4

T otal__________________

60

360

46.0

Tenter-frame tenders, male:
Connecticut_____________
Massachusetts___________
N ew Jersey______________
N ew Y ork_______________
N orth C a r o lin a _________
P en n sy lv a n ia __________
Rhode Island____________
Smith nftrolinfl. _ _ _ _

4
7
17
10
10
7
10
4

22
146
452
69
54
38
123
66

65.9
55.2
51.9
50.5
47.0
58.9
50.9
64.5

T otal................................

69

970

53.3




32,
un­
der
36

36,
un­
der
40

40,
un­
der
44

44,
un­
der
48

48

2

4
4

11
2

•10
3

2

1
1
2
1

1

1
3

1

4

3

2

1

1

16

3
1
3

1
23
1
3
3

2
5
7
3
1

18
8
2

1

1

2

8

i"
7

26

36

25

18

3
25
4
6
5
8

13
75
9
8
3
10

2
75

51

118

80

4
2
2

3

9

12

33

6

1
2

1

2
3

1
3

4
2
1
1

1
6
8
4
1
2
1

1

8

4

3
4

6

16

1
1

11

6

19

23

1
3
40
1
8
1
54

1
3
7
1
6
1
2
4

2
7
1
2
2
2
0)

11

4

1

1

5

1

1

2

1

1

6

1

2
2
1

Over 52,
48, un­
un­ der
der 54
52

2

17

54

Over 58,
54,
un­ un­
der
der 60
58

2
3
3

4
1

5
5

60

8

Over 65,
60,
un­ un­
der
der 70
65

5
1
1

4

5
1
6

1

1
1
7

4

20

11

18

2

92

114

2

2

1
9
7
1

3
26
2
1
1

1
8
1
28

2

1
0)

10

9

70,
80
un­ and
der over
80

4
1

2

1
2
6

2
2

14

6

1
1

2

5
16
1
--

2

12

4

21
5
1
3

3

1
3
6
1

47

7

11

1
10
39
24
6
3
18
1

5
5
1
2
1
2

4
23
2
1
1

3
28
15
7
20
2
3
9

102

16

31

87

2
3

1

3

1

3
10
45
5

4
10
40 ‘
3

11
1

3
14
33
2
1
8
18
17

10
20

"“T
6
9

4

45

96

96

80

15

4

3
5
1
2

OF TEXTILES, 1932

T otal__________________
Sewers, female:
Connecticut_____________
Massachusetts ________
N ew Jersey ____________
__________
N ew York
N orth Carolina__________
Pennsylvania _________
________
Rhode Island
South Carolina__________

28,
un­
der
32

FINISHING

3
5
8
3
8
4
7
1

24,
un­
der
28

AND

Sewers, male:
C on n ecticu t....... ..........
Massachusetts___________
New J rsey______________
N ew Y ork _______________
N orth Carolina__________
Pennsylvania________1___
R hode Island____________
South Carolina__________

20,
un­
der
24

DYEING

A ver­
N um ­ N um ­
age
ber of ber of hours
estab­ wage actually U n­ 4,
lish­ earn­ worked
der un­
der
ments
in 1
ers
4
week
8

Tenter-frame tenders, female:
Connecticut...............
New Jersey............ ........
New Y ork____________
Pennsylvania_________
Rhode Island.................

53.2
47.1
31.0
41.4
46.6

10

43.8

Total...........................
29
188
199
51
82
41
91
62

51.2

29
85
295
41
36
98
54

51.4
53.0
51.2
45.3
50.7
54.3
50.2
61.1

22

65

~T
1
28
3

13

1
5
37
9
3

3
11
21
9
2
5
6
4

2
6
19
5
2
1
6
1

61

42

8
270

31.6
39.4
40.1

18
2

12

66
344

39.3

20

16

25

15

* For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total.

4

1

21
8

3
13
2

18
2

27

18

20

39

3
14

1
4

22

10

2
14
3
17
6

81

12

19
6

2

105

12
2

5

8

18
57

23
7
9
16
2
8
11

10

55

12

2
1
31
1
5

10
50

82

2

14
24

47
9

84

38

56

LABOR

32.1

41

5
9
13

15
32

1
11

~~ ~

10

121

”12"

1
17
14

2

13
5

OF

91

14

10
18
16
3
30
3

2

47
34
10
16
4
5
3

67

1

Yarn winders, female:
New Jersey.....................
N orth Carolina..............
Pennsylvania_________




3
1
53
3
2

’ io"

51.8

13

25

8
11
2
2

660

T otal_______________

14
5
1

8

Yarn winders, male:
N orth Carolina............

T o t a l - ........................

2
12

19
4

HOURS

750

21

AND

Washer tenders, male:
Connecticut...................
Massachusetts..............
N ew J e rs e y ..................
N ew Y ork ____________
North Carolina.............
Pennsylvania................
Rhode Island................
South Carolina........... .

50.7
51.9
49.0
47.3
48.5
56.9
49.6
60.5

11

WAGES

Truckers, male:
C onnecticut...................
Massachusetts________
New Jersey___________
New Y ork......................
North Carolina............
Pennsylvania................
Rhode Island................
South Carolina.............
T otal....... ....................

11

T a b le

E«— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State

Occupation, sex, and State

Total

Total
Drier tenders, female:
N ew Jersey
N ew York
T ota l......................................
Dyeing-machine tenders, male*.
Connecticut _
__
Massachusetts
N ew Jersey
N ew York
North Carolina
Pennsylvania....................... .




72

507

19.06

1

1

5
8
18
g
16
12
10
4

15
100
221
57
47
38
102
47

23.88
18.23
23. 36
19.69
13.29
21.72
19.65
14.42

_2_

81

627

20.09

1
1

13
3

2
3
7
18
9
18
12

1

1
1

1
1

3

6
2

4
I
6
4
1
5
3

3

5

15

24

1
1
2
1

3
7
3
4

2
7

7

8.39
8.93

2

16

8.50

2

38
132
658
71
94
181

22.29
16.55
22.61
19.94
12.95
22.09

1
10
1
5
3

3
1
2
1

7
8
12
28
1
14
4
13
17
8
6
13
1 _____
” 2
15
8
13
18

4
17
13
4
1
1
6
6

6
12
10
2
1
3
6
3

2
8
4
2
1
1
14

67

43

32

3
10

77

68

52

1
13
4
8
6
6
5
8

1
24
22
4
3
4
12
5

2
17
33
5
4
3
21
1

51

75

5
8
32
12
11
17

6
13
72
13
5
26

3
7
1
5
3
3
4

4
3
11
13

2

2
5
1
2
1
5
1

15
9

14
1
4
7
4
7
14

19

17

26

55

51

3

4
3

1

2

1

3

7

1

2

1

9
17
17
16
2
10 " 21’
3
4

31
14
1
14
6

2
10
17
6
17
14

1

5

7

2
6

3
1

7
14
16

5
8
5
5

1

2
4

6
11
1

3
11 " T

1
12

41

26

19

1

18
2
1
13
4

22
1

5
10
1

5
11

1
2

86

53

68

27

7
18
108
9
2
15

7
17
103
15
3
10

2
6
81
2
1
21

1
4
3
1
1
34 ’ 50' 33
10
9

2
4

3

2
1

$40,
un­
der
$45

$45,
un­
der
$50

$50,
un­
der
$60

$60, $75, $100
un­ un­ and
der der over
$75 $100

____

1

1

1

1

1

2

1
1

1
1

10

5

2

2

33

20

3

1

2

14

13

1

6

12
2

19
3

1
7 "T

1

15

23

8

$38,
un­
der
$40

5

3

= =

1

4
44
4

28

$36,
un­
der
$38

1

7
2
7
1

6
5

$34,
un­
der
$36

10

6
4

2

OF TEXTILES, 1932

Drier tenders, male:
C onnecticut
Massachusetts
N ew Jersey
N ew Y ork
N orth Carolina
Pennsylvania________________
R hode Island
South Carolina

45 $20.48
111 17.91
76 23.49
62 17.35
35 14.45
20 23.43
104 19.84
54 15.83

$8, $10, $12, $14, $16, $18, $20, $22, $24, $26, $28, $30, $32,
un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­
der der der der der der der der der der der der der
$10 $12 $14 $16 $18 $20 $22 $24 $26 $28 $30 $32 $34

FINISHING

Pennsylvania
R hode Island
South Carolina

3
8
17
10
11
8
10
5

N um ber of wage earners whose earnings in 1 week were—

AND

N ew Jersey__________________

A ver­
N^Tn- age
ber of actual
wage earn­ Un­ $4, •$6,
ings der un­ un­
earn­
der der
in 1
ers
week $4 $6 $8

DYEING

Calender tenders, male:

N um ­
ber of
estab­
lish­
ments

1

____

Rhode Island-.
South Carolina-

10

T otal..............

80

175
44

20.15
14.78

1,393

20.61

Folders, male:
Connecticut___
Massachusetts _
N ew Jersey____
N ew Y ork _____
North Carolina.
P ennsylvania..
Rhode Island. .
South Carolina.
405

104

24.47
20.86
14.72
0)
7.60
14.20
8.64

3
50
158
24
34
27
29
12

21.52
15.69
21.77
17.19
12.42
23.57
22.60
15.69

T otal..............

6
32

23

0)
23

24

186

2

~y

0)
9.91
12.78
11.96
10.08
18.32
13.08
7.76

11.06

* For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total.

13
4
3
1

28

0)
11
4
9
13

2

16
1

2
1
5
4
1
2

1
3
1
3

60

61

2

7

14
1

12
49

1
4
32
1

16
5

1
13
1

12

19

15
1

12
2
29

36

12~

22

33

16

15

1
13

2
10

6
24
3
4

2

1

18

12

120

12

11

20

174

"Y

"T
3

19.60

Inspectors, female:
Connecticut___
Massachusetts .
N ew Jersey____
N ew Y ork_____
N orth Carolina.
Pennsylvania. _
R hode Island. .
South Carolina-

32

147

13

11
20

17

1
3
17
5
3
1

3
3

2

1

’T
3
1

45

33

47

31

24

20

LABOR

13.14

18

106

43
3

6
20
(*)
2

11
1

OF

198

23

19

9

HOTTRS

26

17
2
5
15
1
3

29

12

AND

<0

Inspectors, male:
Connecticut___
Massachusetts.
New Jersey___
New Y ork _____
North Carolina
Pennsylvania . .
Rhode Isla n d -.
South Carolina.




77

14
17

WAGES

T otal..............

T otal..............

45

10

33.00
21.61
34.57
20.62
15.61
20.77
24.42
28.40

Folders, female:
Massachusetts.
New Jersey____
N ew Y ork .........
North Carolina.
Rhode Island. .
South Carolina.
T otal..............

18

17
3

T a b le

E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued

Occupation, sex, and State

T otal.....................................

18.86




62

72

39

56. 23

5
64
26
5
16
8
28
0)

19.00
14. 51
23.02
20.15
11.36
22.60
0)

$60,
un­
der
$75

$75, $100
un­ and
der
$100 over

4

2
17
10

20.02

17. 32

$50,
un­
der
$60

22

61.71
25. 62

313

$45,
un­
der
$50

25

102. 00

Sewers, male:
Connecticut......... ................ .
Massachusetts........................
N ew Jersey--------------- ---------New Y o rk ........ .......................
North Carolina.......................
Pennsylvania..........................
R hode Island....................... .
South Carolina.......................

Total..................................

57

51.21
60. 59
53. 45
66. 05
17. 31

26

$40,
un­
der
$45

OF

T otal....................................

I
$34, $36,
un­ un­
der der
$36

(0

28

55

10

TEXTILES, 1932

Printing-machine tenders, male:
Connecticut________________
Massachusetts________ ____
New Jersey________________
New Y o rk ____________ 1___
North Carolina____________
Pennsylvania___ __________
Rhode Island______________
South Carolina_____________

$28, $30, $32,
un­ un­ un­ un­
der der der der
$28 $30 $32 $34

FINISHING

15 $22. 21
43 15.79
131 22.37
69 16.26
49 14.95
15 21. 02
93 20.67
55 15.08

$10, $12, $14, $16, $18, $20, $22, $24,
$4,
un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­ un­
der der der der der der der der der der der
$6 $8 $10 $12 $14 $16 $18 $20 $22 $24 $26

AND

Mangle tenders, male:
Connecticut........... ................ .
Massachusetts.......... ........... .
New Jersey________________
New Y o r k .......... ....................
North Carolina.......................
Pennsylvania__ ___________
R hode Island....................... .
South Carolina_____________

Num ber of wage earners whose earnings in 1 week were—

DYEING

Aver­
N um ­ N um ­ age
ber of ber of actual
estab­ wage earn­ U n­
lish­ earn­
ings der
ments
in 1
ers
week $4

177409°—83-

12
70
76
13
129
10
30
20

12.64
9.59
14.13
12.21
13.28
16.60
13.58
12.06

T otal................

50

360

4
7
17
10
10
7
10
4

Tenter-frame tenders, male:
Connecticut___________
Massachusetts................
N ew Jersey.....................
N ew Y ork .......................
N orth Carolina..............
Pennsylvania........ .........
R hode Island..................
South Carolina............. T otal.

3
27
8
5
23

2
6
3
3
19

I

1
1
5
6
5
3
17
21
14
3
29 ~~Z1 " i r
4
2
1
2
5
4
11
1

_
_

1

2

2

1

2
1

8
7

12.73

3

6

27

69

48

73

70

22
146
452
69
54
38
123
66

29.78
17.65
22.33
19.10
12.73
25.23
20.63
16.80

_
3

2
3

4
1

4
5

2

1

1

9

8
4
3
17

1
25
19
10
12

_

1

1
2

4
1
5
5
1
12
1

5
7

69

970

20.55

7

6

7

21

29

44

1
3
1
2
2

5
32
13
11
14

23.30
15.41
7.44
13.00
14.09

9

75

13.95

2
7
13
8
11
8
9
4

29
188
199
51
82
41
91
69

21.82
16.32
21.00
17.52
11.43
21.20
17.88
14.24

62

750

17.58

1
1

7
9

7

2
2

1
1

2
1
2

5

2

9

9

__ __

9

T

1
6
1
4

1
1
1
3

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1
2

2

36

13

8

7
4

32
48
16
2
1
12
18

15
60
12
2
6
13
14

33
124
10
3
5
25
5

88

129

122

4

10

2

4

3
3
14
45
3

5
2
30
3

1

8

1

1

2

3
27
2

24
1

28
1

17
2

6

1
1

5

1

3
14
1

7
14
1

2
6
1

5
3
1

3
3

2
1

1
1

3

2
1

205

83

62

41

34

36

30

9

3

10

4

4
1

1

8

4

4

1

5

1

1

2

1

6

2

6
2

1

1
5

2

8

5

6

6

10

10

8

5

1

4
2

11
3
6
23
1
6
6

30
6
11
8
1
4
25

3
30
13
4
10
4
7
22

3
67
21
5
8
4
12
8

3
20
38
5
3
3
15
4

8
11
40
9
2
4
16

5
3
13
10

4
7
15
1

1
2
13

10

5
10

5
4
1

2
5

4
1

56

85

93

128

91

90

46

37

23

15

8 ” 13*
3
1
6
2
1
16

1

30

4
4

2

6

LABOR

T otal.

20
4

OP

T otal.
Trackers, male:
Connecticut........
M assachusetts..
N ew Jersey........
N ew Y ork ........ .
N orth Carolina.
Pennsylvania.._
R hode Island. _ _
South Carolina..

1
2

HOURS

Tenter-frame tenders, female:
Connecticut______________
N ew Jersey..........................
N ew Y ork ............................
Pennsylvania..................... .
R hode Island............ ..........

1
2

AND

2
6
13
6
7
5
8
3

WAGES

Sewers, female:
Connecticut____
Massachusetts - .
N ew Jersey_____
N ew Y ork ______
N orth Carolina.
Pennsylvania.. _
R hode Isla n d .. .
South C arolina-

1

5

1

2

1 For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total.




Cm

T a b le

E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in IS specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State— Continued

Occupation, sex, and State

$14, $16, $18,
un­ un­ un­
der der der
$16 $18 $20

$20, $22,
un­
der

$22

un­
der
$24

$24, $26, $28,
un­ un­ un­
der der der
$30
$26

19.58
11.08

16

8
270

7.73
9.85
12.41

24

10.29

24

27

17

10

62

71

91
12

13
43

54

57

55

19

24

13

54

51

32

$38,
un­
der
$40

$40,
un­
der
$45

$45,
un­
der
$50

$50,
un­
der
$60

$60, $75, $100
un­ un­ and
der der over
$75 $100

19

26

OF TEXTILES, 1932

91

13

$34,
un­
der

FINISHING




$12

$8

un­
der
$14

AND

T otal..................

un­
der

$22.02
16.37
22.35
16.83
12.56
24.89
18.52
14.67

T ota l.............. .

Y a m winders, female:
N ew Jersey..........
N orth C arolina..
Pennsylvania___

$10, $12,

$«,
un­
der

DYEING

Washer tenders, male
Connecticut_____
M assachusetts.. _
N ew Jersey..........
N ew Y ork ............
N orth Carolina __
Pennsylvania___
R hode Island___
South C a r o lin a -

Yarn winders, male:
N orth C arolina...

Num ber of wage earners whose earnings in 1 week were—

Aver­
N um ­ N um ­ age
ber of ber of actual
estab­ wage earn­ Un­
lish­ earn­
ings der
in i
ments
ers
week $4

A p p e n d i x . —Factory

Occupational Terms, and Definitions and
Classification by Bureau of Labor Statistics

Acid man. (See Acid-strength inspector.) Classified as: Other employees.
Acid mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Acid-pump man supervises operation of pumps which force various chemical
solutions through pipes to bleaching, weighting, and boil-off departments.
Classified as: Other employees.
Acid-strength inspector checks strength of acid used in vats in which cloth is
treated during process of bleaching; also sees that automatic controls in these
vats are working properly. Classified as: Other employees.
Adding-machine operator, cloth room, adds yardage and weights of various pieces
of cloth that go to make up bales or boxes of cloth for shipment, as they are called
by weighman, cloth, or yardage caller. Totals are used for invoices and office
records. Classified as: Other employees.
Ager boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Ager box tender. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders.
Ager tender tends ager machine, which is used for treating cloth with steam or
ammonia when only a short period is necessary for developing and fixing dye
or mordant used for setting color. It consists of an iron compartment with a
series of guide rollers near top and bottom. Cloth is lead in open width
through a slit near top at front end, passes to back end and down around guide
rollers to front again, where it emerges through the same slit but underneath
the going-in end, and is delivered on truck. Tender watches to see that cloth
is feeding in evenly, sews new pieces on as truck empties and rips them apart
when a truck load of steamed cloth is plaited down; starts and stops, oils and
cleans machine, and regulates steam or ammonia fumes. Classified as: Ager
tenders.
Ammonia box man. (See Ammonia solution preparer.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Ammonia solution preparer prepares ammonia solution used in special apparatus
or machine for developing and “ fixing” certain colors in cloth. Classified as:
Other employees.
Aniline-dye ager operator. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders.
Ash kier boiler. (See Kier boiler.) Classified as: Kier boilers.
Assistant foreman performs supervisory work under direction of foreman, and does
some productive work, such as adjusting machines, inspecting work, etc.
Classified as: Other employees.
Assistant second hand. (See Assistant foreman.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
As sorter, cloth stock, takes cuts of cloth, after they have been properly ticketed,
and sorts them by styles on platforms or racks. When required number of
pieces of a given style have been accumulated, assorter puts them on truck
and takes them to shipping room. Classified as: Other employees.
Back folder. (See Back lapper.) Classified as: Other employees.
Back gray tender tends back part of printing machine, looking specifically after
gray cloths. See also Back tender, printing. Classified as: Back tenders,
printing.
Back lapper takes bolt of folded cloth after it has been doubled or wound, un­
winds it a little, turns end in, and winds it up so as to give a neat appearance
to fold or bolt. It is then ready for bander. Classified as: Other employees.
Back man, cloth drier. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers.
Backfiller guides flow of cloth through starch mangle in special manner; when it
is desired to starch cloth on only one side, it is not immersed in starch but is
run over surface of roller which revolves partly immersed in starch. This is
called “ back filling.” See also Mangle tender. Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Back tender, dyeing machine, works at rear of dyeing machine to see that cloth
comes from machine properly. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified
as: Dyeing-machine tenders.




47

48

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Back tender, printing, tends back part of printing machine looking after supply of
cloth, using a small portable sewing machine to sew on a new piece of white
when one batch is about run out, so as to keep a continuous run. Also looks
after gray cloths, if there is no back gray tender, as well as after the color in the
back boxes, if there is no color boy; keeps steam up in dry cans; and assists
printer in pitching pattern when machine is being prepared for a new pattern.
When machine is stopped at night or to change patterns, he takes down doctor
and color boxes and washes copper rollers off thoroughly with a hose and brush.
All color must be removed from rollers lest it harden and cause defective work.
Classified as: Back tenders, printing.
Back tender, soaping machine, works at rear of soaping machine to see that cloth
comes from machine properly. See also Soaper tender. Classified as: Soaper
tenders.
Back tender, tenter frame, works at rear of tentering frame to see that cloth comes
from frame properly. See also Tenter-frame tender. Classified as: Tenterframe tenders.
Backer and bander, cloth, uses specially designed sheets of paper as covering or
backing for some cuts of cloth when folding it for trade, and ties band of ribbon
or decorative cord around to hold same in place. Classified as: Folders.
Bag washer, color straining, washes cloth bags, used by color strainer in colormixing room, to remove colors and foreign substances from them. Classified
as: Other employees.
Bagging salvager. (See Salvager, bagging.) Classified as: Other employees.
Bale marker. (See Stenciler.) Classified as: Other employees.
Bale opener, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers.
Baler, cloth, operates press, hydraulic or toggle joint, to bale cloth. A piece of
burlap is cut to right size and laid on base and over it is placed a piece of paper
if the latter is used. Required number of cuts of cloth are piled on these and
on top of them is placed more paper and another piece of burlap. Press is
then started and run until bale is compressed to proper size, when burlap is
spread over sides and ends and sewed together by hand. Metal tie bands or
ropes are put through grooves of press and fastened tightly around bale. Press
is released and bale trucked away. In some plants the worker merely bands
the bale in the press and sews the heads on it after it is taken out on the floor.
Classified as: Balers.
Bander, cloth, bolts, pastes 2 specially prepared strips or bands of paper around
each bolt of cloth, 1 near each end, for decorative purposes, as well as to hold
folds of cloth in shape. Classified as: Other employees.
Basket man. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Batcher boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Batcher, cloth winder, operates machine used for winding any length of cloth
around a roller. It consists of two large cloth-covered rollers, set in same
horizontal plane and geared to run together, with guide * rn at each end and
wooden slats over which cloth is drawn to give it tension. Some machines
have a sprinkling device to dampen the cloth while being wound. Winder
threads cloth through tension slats and starts end around wooden roller, puts
pin through roller, places it in position and starts machine, watches to see
that there are no creases in cloth and that selvages are winding straight.
Winding machines are found in several sections of plant, wherever there is
need to wind cloth for bleaching, dyeing, or printing. Classified as: Batchers,
cloth winders.
Bath mixer looks after mixing chemicals used in bleaching; sees that they are
properly prepared and are of correct strength for work to be done. Uses
block and fall to handle large drums of caustic. Care must be exercised to
avoid danger from burns or fumes, chlorine being especially dangerous; how­
ever, workers are protected by ventilating system. Classified as: Bath
mixers.
Beam dyer, yarn, operates dye vat into which specially devised, perforated, hol­
low beam with yarn coiled around it is lowered and dye liquor pumped through
beam and yarn until properly dyed. Classified as: Other employees.
Beamer tender runs a beamer or beaming frame, restoring warp which was made
into a chain on ball warper to its original sheet-like form, and winding it into
layers on a beam after dyeing. Lease strings which were inserted between
warp threads enable operators to lay them in same order as when on warper.
Machine consists of two uprights which support section beam, an expansion
comb like that on warper, and a swinging comb supported by straps. Tender




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

49

stands with one foot on operating treadle, holds swinging comb in one hand,
and has his eyes fixed on expansion comb. As soon as an end ceases to come
through a dent in comb, he must stop machine, find ends and tie them up,
and if one end is missing, supply yarn from a bobbin kept on hand for that
purpose. If yarn is tangled, he knows it by the pull on swinging comb and
so can stop machine before ends break. Beamer tenders set up empty beams
in their frames and take down full ones. When a warp is about all beamed,
the end is tied to end of a new one so as to keep a continuous run. Each new
warp, however, must be threaded in combs. Tender usually oils and cleans
his machine. Classified as: Other employees.
Beck-dyeing-machine operator. (,See Spiral dye-beck tender.) Classified as:
Dyeing-machine tenders.
Beetle-machine operator operates a machine designed to give cloth a special finish
as it passes into machine over wooden rollers where it is beaten by wooden
hammers called “ beetle sticks” , which are operated by this machine. This
finish gives to cotton cloth an appearance almost like that of satin. Classified
as: Other employees.
Bias cloth cutter operates cutting device to cut special cloth into bias strips of
specified lengths and widths. These strips are rolled up and sold in this form.
Classified as: Other employees.
Bin changer, cloth, watches cloth being drawn by machine out of bins, and at­
taches end of cloth from bin being emptied to end of cloth in full bin, to make
continuous run of any length desired. Classified as: Other employees.
Bin packer, cloth, packs cloth in specially prepared bins after it comes from vari­
ous bleaching operations. Classified as: Other employees.
Bleacher boss, working. {See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Block engraver operates routing machine and uses special graving instrument by
hand to cut away parts of surface so as to produce or engrave a raised design
on wood block used in block-printing cloth. Classified as: Other employees.
Block printer uses a wooden block with a raised design on surface to print cloth
by hand. Designs are colored by use of a color pad. Classified as: Other
employees.
Blow-machine foremant working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Blow-machine man, starch spraying, operates a blow-type machine which uses
compressed air to spray specially prepared starch or finish on cloth with a
series of nozzles as the cloth enters mangle. Classified as: Other employees.
Blue-ager tender. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders.
Board winder, cloth. (See Winder, cloth, bolts.) Classified as: Other employees.
Boil-off man, cloth. (See Kier boiler.) Classified as: Kier boilers.
Boil-off man, skein yarn, strings skeins of yarn on a pole which is then placed
over a vat so that skeins hang in boil-off solution. Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Boil-off winder, cloth. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers,
cloth winders.
Boilermaker works on kiers and metal tubs keeping them in repair and in safe
and proper working condition. Classified as: Other employees.
Bolt labeler. (See Ticketer; also Label sewer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Bolt winder, cloth. (See Winder, cloth, bolts.) Classified as: Other employees.
Book folder. (See Folder, cloth, hand.) Classified as: Folders.
Booker, cloth, keeps record of cloth, recording style and yardage that goes into
make-up of each bale or box for shipment, as it is called by weighman, cloth,
or yardage caller. Classified as: Other employees.
Bookmaker, samples. (See Sample maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Boss laborer, working. (See Straw boss.) Classified as: Other employees.
Boss workman. (See Working foreman; also Straw boss.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Box-machine tender, dyeing. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing; also Box tender,
warp boiling.
Classified as: Other employees.
Box maker uses nails and hammer or nailing machine to construct wooden ship­
ping cases from lumber stock, or assembles knocked-down parts purchased
from mills which specialize in these parts. See also Sawyer, shipping-case
parts. Classified as: Other employees.
Box pusher. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Box tender, warp boiling, operates box-like apparatus or container used for boiling
warp or chain yarn and washing it after dyeing and may also be used for dye­
ing it. When filled with water or dye, yarn passes in and out of liquid and




50

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

over and between rollers in a manner similar to dyeing done by vat tender,
warp dyeing. Box is kept threaded with a leader when no warp is in it.
Classified as: Other employees.
Box washer, colors. (See Color-box washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Boxer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers.
Breaker, cloth-bale opening. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers.
Breaker-machine man. (See Button breakerman; also Conroy operator.) Classi­
fied as: Other employees.
Brown souring washer, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer
tenders.
Brush washer works at a trough or sink supplied with both hot and cold water to
wash color from brushes or “ furnishers” that furnish color to copper rollers
in printing machine. Brush is set in bearings of a device which is made to
turn rapidly while water from open jets is forced into it to remove color. Also
holds a comb on brush while it is turning to remove lint, etc., from bristles.
Classified as: Other employees.
Brusher-machine operator operates a machine for brushing cloth to remove all dust
and foreign matter. It consists of a large box like structure in which various
beating and brushing rollers are so arranged that they brush both sides of
cloth as it is drawn through machine. Operator sets large rolls or folds of
cloth up in stand behind frame and threads it through machine, starting it
around rolling pin on which it is to be rolled. Classified as: Other employees.
Bumper assists engraver, machine, to run machine by turning a large wheel by
hand when it is desired to engrave a number of repeats of a small figure. En­
graver adjusts pattern in machine so figure will fit accurately on copper roller
and bumper turns wheel back and forth repeatedly until impression of figure on
mill is engraved on roller. This short, jerky, back-and-forth motion is called
“ bumping. ” Also assists in moving rollers and in other manual work. Clas­
sified as: Other employees.
Bundler, small shipments, puts up and wraps securely small orders of cloth, and
labels them for shipment. Classified as: Other employees.
Button breakerman operates machine designed to remove excess starch from cloth
by “ breaking u p” calendered finish. Cloth is guided through machine over
and under series of wooden rollers which are covered with metal buttons, thus
making cloth much softer. See also Conroy operator. Classified as: Other
employees.
Calender-machine operator. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender
tenders.
Calender tender operates a calender or machine used to give cloth its final and
lasting pressing. Machine consists essentially of a series of large, heavy
cylinders or bowls supported in an iron frame in contact one with the other and
are heated with steam or a gas flame. Operator threads cloth between nips of
rollers, regulates speed of bowls, both relative and absolute, and regulates
steam in cylinder or gas flow. He has absolute control of machine, starts and
stops it, and looks after the oiling and cleaning of same. Classified as: Calen­
der tenders.
Callert yardage. (See Yardage caller.) Classified as: Other employees.
Can drier. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.
Can feeder, drying. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.
Can man, drying. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.
Card instructor, sample making. (See Instructor, sample-card making.) Clas­
sified as: Other employees.
Card maker, samples. (See Sample maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Card sample checker. (See Sample checker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Cardboard stringer uses foot lever to operate small power punch to make holes in
end of cardboard around which cuts or bolts of cloth are later wound. After
punching holes, a string is tied through each hole. When cloth is later wound
on these boards, yardage and description tags will be attached to this string.
Classified as: Other employees.
Carpenter does general carpentry work about plant, making repairs and changes in
wooden structure and sometimes makes wooden shipping cases. Classified as:
Other employees.
Carton maker opens up prepared cartons from fiat-folded form in which they were
purchased, puts them together, and fastens them in proper shape to receive
products for shipment. Classified as: Other employees.
Carton-parts assembler. (See Carton maker.) Classified as: Other employees.




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

51

Case maker, packing boxes. (See Box maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Case nailer. (See Nailer, packing boxes.) Classified as: Other employees.
Caustic man. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Caustic mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Caustic-soda mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Caustic-soda reclaimer reclaims caustic soda from solutions that have been used in
finishing process of cloth. Caustic-soda solution is pumped to special evapora­
tors for concentration. By means of steam under definite pressure, pumping
and vacuum suction, caustic liquor is concentrated until most of salt is sepa­
rated out. This strong liquor is drawn to water-jacketed settling tanks, where
on cooling more salt is separated out. Classified as: Other employees.
Chain drier. (See Dry-can man, warp.) Classified as: Other employees.
Chase-calender tender. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders.
Checker, processes, follows up the work to make sure that cloth is processed in
proper order. Checks incoming and outgoing cloth in various departments.
Classified as: Other employees.
Checker, samples. (See Sample checker; also Inspector, samples.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Checker, shipments, checks lot number, yardage, quality, etc., of goods which have
been assembled for shipment. Classified as: Other employees.
Chemical-box tender watches consistency of chemical mixtures used in bleaching,
and adds water or chemicals as required. Classified as: Other employees.
Chemical mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Chemical mixer's helper helps chemical mixer in unpacking, storing, and mixing
chemicals used in preparing bleaching solutions. Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Chemicker washer tender. (See Color-John washer tender.) Classified as:
Washer tenders.
Clammer. (See Clamper.) Classified as: Other employees.
Clamper hardens “ die” which was made by die maker, puts it into a clamming or
clamping machine, a specially constructed rotary press, which reproduces
design on die in bas-relief on another soft steel roller, called “ mill” , used for
engraving by machine. Die is set in machine, and the mill in above it and in
contact with it. By properly applying pressure, impression of die is made on
mill. Operator regulates pressure screw with a large wheel, and his skill comes
in knowing how to apply pressure. Too much pressure will spoil mill and even
break it or the die. When pressure is adjusted, he starts machine by throwing
a lever, runs it about a minute, then takes out mill, dips it into nitric acid for an
instant to bring out the impression, and then dips it into water to wash off acid.
This operation is repeated many times. Mill must be replaced in machine in
exact location from which taken. Operator keeps mill and die well supplied
with lubricating oil. First impression made is that of burrs raised on outside
edges of die which make corresponding indentations on the outside edges of
mill so the two will fit and not slip when impression of design is being trans­
ferred. When design is raised completely on mill and has had the approval of
foreman, it is hardened and ready for the engraver, machine. Classified as:
Other employees.
Cleaner, general, does general cleaning and scrubbing of floors, walls, bins, trucks,
benches, etc. Classified as: Other employees.
Cleaner, oil spots. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Cleaner, sheets and pillowcases. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Clipper, cloth ravelings, uses hand shears to clip loose threads from end of cloth
cuts before they are folded. Classified as: Other employees.
Clipper, tenter frame. (See Tenter-frame clipper.) Classified as: Tenter-frame
tenders.
Cloth-color matcher. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Cloth distributor uses truck to distribute rolls or pieces of cloth to various depart­
ments where needed. Classified as: Truckers.
Cloth inspector. (See Inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors.
Cloth layer-out. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers.
Cloth painter. (See Touch-up man, printed cloth; also Paint-machine operator,
cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Cloth-roll machine tender. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers,
cloth winders.
Cloth stretcher. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders.
Cloth winder, bolts. (See Winder, cloth, bolts.) Classified as: Other employees.




52

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Cloth winder, rolls. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers, cloth
winders.
Coiler tender. (See Coiler, warp.) Classified as: Other employees.
Coxier, warp, watches coiling of warp as it comes over drying cans to see that it is
properly coiled in a mass that can be handled without danger of being tangled,
and removes it when a full warp has been coiled. At the beginning of a new
warp that is coiled, a piece of burlap is placed to receive it and when coil is
completed, operator ties corners of burlap over coil so it can be moved without
soiling or tangling. Classified as: Other employees.
Color boy, printing, works at cloth-printing machine when several colors are used
in design which is being printed. Uses dipper to refill partly empty color
boxes or pans in printing machine. Care must be used to avoid mixing colors
or permitting any color to run too low in pan. Classified as: Other employees.
Color-box filler, printing. (See Color boy, printing.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Color-box washer places color boxes, which are long copper pans used in cloth
printing machines, into soaking tank and then uses a brush by hand to remove
color which adheres. This is done when colors in machine are changed.
Classified as: Other employees.
Color inspector, cloth, examines cuts of cloth to ascertain if colors and shades are
in accordance with specifications. Classified as: Inspectors.
Color-John washer tender operates washing machine containing soapy water and
special chemicals through which cloth dyed with colors that cannot stand
the regular washing process are run to set these dyes. Classified as: Washer
tenders.
Color mixer measures proper quantities of standard colors, paste, etc., as directed
by colorist, to obtain correct shade and consistency required for cloth-printing
room. Spreads strainer cloth over top of tub; puts in liquids which are squeezed
through cloth by his helper, known as a strainer, then uses wooden paddle to
mix them properly. Classified as: Color mixers.
Color mixer's helper assists color mixer in straining colors, trucks them w'here
needed, and cleans room, working under color mixer’s direction. Classified
as: Other employees.
Color-shop clerk. (See Color stockman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Color-shop laborer. (See Color mixer’s helper.) Classified as: Other employees.
Color stockman supervises work in color storeroom, issues prepared colors in
quantities as ordered, and maintains records of quantities on hand and how
and where distributed. Classified as: Other employees.
Color strainer. (See Strainer, colors.) Classified as: Other employees.
Color weigher. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Color-weigher boss. (See Color stockman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Colorist is usually head of color-mixing department; prepares and writes out color
formula for color mixers in accordance with plans of designing department and
decides when the correct shade has been reached. Examines printed sample,
a small piece of cloth called a “ patch” or “ swatch” after it has been steamed
and soaped and gives final word to printer when color is right. Classified as:
Other employees.
Compensator man, warp dyeing, manipulates compensator, which is a device
designed to regulate tension of warp when going through dyeing machine.
Classified as: Other employees.
Cone winder. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Conroy operator operates machine which breaks up calendered finish of cloth as it
passes over specially devised rollers in which are wavy ridges, thus making
cloth softer. See also Button breakerman. Classified as: Other employees.
Continuous-steamer tender.
(See Steamer tender.)
Classified as: Steamer
tenders.
Controller, mercerizing range, starts, stops, and regulates speed of mercerizing
range as directed by mercerizer. Classified as: Other employees.
Conveyor man, cloth, places cuts or pieces of cloth on conveyor belt for transfer to
some other department or removes them from conveyor. Classified as:
Other employees.
Copper, repairing, drives up hoops to tighten barrels, tubs, etc., in which dyes and
dye stocks are kept, and does other repair work on these containers. Classi­
fied as: Other employees.
Copper-roller handler, printing. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as: Jackmen, printing.
Cottage-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders.




APPENDIX.—OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

53

Cotton-finishing washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer
tenders.
Cutter, samples. (See Sample cutter.) Classified as: Other employees.
Cuttler, warp dyeing, tends to delivery or plaiting end of warp-splitting machine,
and keeps yarn in position by adjusting automatic guides. See also Splitter,
warp. Classified as: Other employees.
Dampener operator. (See Sprinkler tender.) Classified as: Sprinkler tenders.
Delivery-end tender, calender, works at the rear of calender to see that cloth
comes from machine properly. See also Calender tender. Classified as:
Calender tenders.
Die cuiter. (See Die maker.) Classified as: Die makers.
Die maker is a highly skilled workman who engraves by hand one repeat of a
given design on a small solid cylindrical roller of softened steel. Uses graver
to cut design in similar manner as that done by the engraver, hand; uses a
magnifying glass most of the time, since the work is so fine it cannot be seen
without one. It must be so accurate that it will fit perfectly when several
repeats are made on roller. Die makers bring out shaded effects by a scheme
of dotting, known as “ stippling.” While this merely requires punching of
small dots it is in practice an extremely delicate and difficult operation, as
dots must be properly spaced and of exact depth. Classified as: Die makers.
Die turner. (See Steel turner.) Classified as: Other employees.
Diez-machine tender, dyeing, operates a dyeing machine known as the “ Diez”
machine. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine
tenders.
Distributor, cloth. (See Cloth distributor.) Classified as: Truckers.
Doubler, cloth, runs a doubling and winding machine which is similar to machines
used in folding department to wind cuts of cloth in bolts. Distinguishing
feature is special device or guide called “ knife” , which is placed so as to
divide or fold cloth in middle with one edge drawn over to meet the other,
thus forming cloth into a double sheet. Guide device on machine then carries
this doubled cloth to winding device of machine where it is wound on boards
for trade in regular manner. Operator usually pastes a sticker on each wound
bolt of cloth showing yardage which is automatically recorded by machine.
Classified as: Other employees.
Doubler operator, cloth winding. (See Doubler, cloth.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Doubling and winding machine operator, cloth. (See Doubler, cloth.) Classified
as: Other employees.
Drawing-machine operator operates machine for drawing threads out of material
for decorative hemstitching. Classified as: Other employees.
Drier boss, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Drier feeder, cloth. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.
Drier foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Drier, skein yarn. (See Skein-yarn drier.) Classified as: Other employees.
Drier tender runs a set of drying cans, large hollow copper cylinders 2 or 3 feet in
diameter, and wide enough to carry 1 or 2 widths of cloth as desired. A
number of these cans, from 6 to 30 according to particular needs, are arranged
horizontally in tiers suited to space occupied, and are so geared that they will
all turn together. Cans are filled with live steam, and cloth is guided around
cans so that it will touch as much surface of each as is possible in order to be
thoroughly dried. Drying cans are found in various departments. Classified
as: Drier tenders.
Drier, warp. (See Dry-can man, warp.) Classified as: Other employees.
Drug weigher. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Dry-box tender. (See Skein-yarn drier.) Classified as: Other employees.
Dry-can feeder. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.
Dry-can feeder’s helper. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers.
Dry-can man, cloth. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.
Dry-can man, warp, watches warp yarn running over drying cans. These cans
are filled with live steam, and strands of warp are directed several times around
each can so they will be thoroughly dried. Stops machine if warp tangles
occur or ends break, and calls second hand to fix it; when a ball of warp runs
out he sets a new one on rack and ties end of new one to old one so there is a
continuous strand running over cans all the time machine is in operation.
Classified as: Other employees.
Dry-can operator, cloth. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.




54

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Dry-drug man supervises work in room where dry drugs, starches, gums, and
chemical stocks are stored, opens sacks, weighs out and issues these in quanti­
ties as needed in various departments. Classified as: Other employees.
Dumper examines cloth after it comes off drier and before it is sent to printing
department. Looks for “ reverses” , that is, cuts of cloth that were sewed in
roU with face side down or reverse of other cuts in roll. It is essential that
face of every piece be matched, either up or down, otherwise pattern would
be printed in face of one piece and on back of another. Stands at a bench
ana examines every seam; when he finds a piece reversed, cuts it out and sews
it in properly. Classified as: Other employees.
Dye feeder. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeing-machine
tenders.
Dye maker. (See Kettleman, color mixing.) Classified as: Kettlemen, color
mixing.
Dye maker's helper. (See Kettleman’s helper.) Classified as: Kettlemen’s
helpers.
Dye mixer uses prescribed formula to prepare liquid dye by mixing specified
pigments or other ingredients used in dye vats. Classified as: Other employees.
Dye-tub tender. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing.) Classified as: Other employees.
Dyer, cloth. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeing-machine
tenders.
Dyer, foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Dyer, skein yarn, handles rods, or sticks on which skeins of yarn are suspended,
works skeins back and forth in dye tanks, and turns them on the rods, thereby
causing color to penetrate uniformly. Classified as: Other employees.
Dyer, warp. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing.) Classified as: Other employees.
Dyeing-machine tender runs one of many types of dyeing machines, as “ spiral
dye beck” , “ jigger” , “ padder” , etc. Machine consists of a trough or vat to
hold liquor, guide rollers over which cloth runs in and out of liquor, and squeeze
rollers to press out excess liquor before removing. Tender threads up machine,
operates valves to admit or cut off dye or liquor, watches the passage of the
cloth to eliminate tangling or overlapping, regulates speed of machine and
adjusts it for the prescribed number of dips a particular piece of cloth is to
receive to get correct shade. Also oils and cleans machine and washes out
vats after each batch. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders.
Dyeing-machine tender's helper helps dyeing-machine tender load and unload dye
machine, or does any other work as directed by tender. Classified as: Other
employees.
Edge sawyer, shipping-case parts. (See Sawyer, shipping-case parts.) Classified
as: Other employees.
Electric trucker operates an electric truck to convey materials from one depart­
ment to another about plant. Classified as: Truckers.
Electrician repairs and maintains electrical wiring and attends and keeps in repair
dynamos, motors, and other electrical equipment about plant. Classified as:
Other employees.
Electrician's helper assists electrician by passing tools, or parts needed in making
repairs of wiring of plant. Classified as: Other employees.
Elevator operator operates an elevator for hoisting or lowering product, supplies,
or workmen from one floor to another. Classified as: Other employees.
Endless-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders.
Engraved-roller inspector. (See Roller inspector.) Classified as: Other employees.
Engraved-roller storer. (See Shell-room man, engraved rollers.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Engraver, hand, is a highly skilled worker who uses a small steel instrument known
as graver, by hand, to cut accurate designs on copper rollers which are used for
printing cloth. A sketch or photograph of design is made and outlines of
each color are drawn with some substance like lamp black and oil, which, when
held against surface of roller and slightly dampened, will leave an imprint of
design on roller. Guided by this imprint, engraver cuts lines out of copper
with small steel instrument ground off at an angle with a very sharp cutting
edge, which is mounted in a short rounded wooden handle which fits into the
palm of engraver's hand while the steel is held between forefinger and thumb.
Is able to follow very accurately lines of design, cutting a groove of the proper
depth and uniform throughout. Also uses punches of various sizes and
designs, and light hammers. Works at a bench with rollers supported in
bearings. Keeps design in color before him and must be very careful to




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

55

engrave the lines of only one color on a roller. It is fine and exacting work.
Classified as: Engravers, hand.
Engraver, machine, operates machine used for transferring specific design from
small steel mill to large copper roller used in printing cloth. Fits mill accurately
in machine, using care to have roller and mill exactly parallel and their axes in
perfect vertical alinement with each other. Engraver must know how much
pressure to apply on mill and when to apply it. Machine has many regulatory
attachments and is equipped to be run by power or hand according to whether
the running is to be constant or intermittent. When a very small figure is to
be engraved it is done by turning the roller back and forth by hand, a process
known as ‘ ‘1bumping. ” When design is. on the whole circumference of mill, it
is transferred by running mill and roller in frictional contact continuously in
same direction until impression on rollers is sufficiently deep. Circumference
of roller is an exact multiple of that of mill; thus repeats of design will be
engraved around entire roller. Wherever mill makes depressions, copper
pressed out rises above surface, making burs. These must be removed by
polishing and, after inspection, roller is ready for printing machine. Classified
as: Engravers, machine.
Errand boy carries repair parts, supplies, orders, or instructions to and from vari­
ous departments as directed by second hand or section men. Classified as:
Other employees.
Etcher subjects the varnished surface of copper roller after design has been cut by
pantographer to acid bath and thus etches design into copper. Uses wash box
or basin about as wide as roller is long and divided into a front and back section.
In one section is solution of nitric acid and in the other water. Roller to be
etched is supported on bearings or arms so adjusted that it can be swung by
hand wheel from front to back compartment. Roller is adjusted so that only
surface of it touches acid, else copper on ends of rollers would be eaten away.
Since “ varnish” put on roller is not affected by acid, only such lines as have
been cut through varnish by pantographer are etched; that is, chemically
eaten out. Etcher regulates strength of acid and must be able to tell when
roller is etched sufficiently. When etching is completed, varnish is washed
off. Etcher is responsible for etching, varnishing, and washing, and is assisted
by various helpers. After being inspected and polished, the roller is ready for
printing machine. Classified as: Etchers.
Etcher’s helper lifts heavy copper rollers, moves them about, as directed by etcher,
places them in supports to be varnished, etched, or washed; turns roller in
etching bath, uses caustic solution to wash varnish off rollers after they are
etched, etc. Classified as: Other employees.
Examiner, cloth defects. (See Inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors.
Examiner, cloth reverses. (See Dumper.) Classified as: Other employees.
Fan tender. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders.
Feed-end tender, calender, tends front or feed end of calender to see that cloth
enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Calender tender. Classified
as: Calender tenders.
Feed-end tender, mangle, tends front or feed end of mangle to see that cloth enters
properly and is being fed evenly. See also Mangle tender. Classified as:
Mangle tenders.
Feeder, mercerizing range, tends front of mercerizing machine to see that cloth
enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Mercerizer. Classified as:
Mercerizers.
Feeder, tenter frame, tends front of tentering machine to see that cloth enters
properly and is being fed evenly. See also Tenter-frame tender. Classified as:
Tenter-frame tenders.
Feeder, washing machine, tends front of washing machine to see that cloth enters
properly and is being fed evenly. See also Washer tender. Classified as:
Washer tenders.
Filter operator operates pumping machinery which filters water before it is used
in washing, bleaching, or dyeing processes. Classified as: Other employees.
Filter plant tender. (See Filter operator.) Classified as: Other employees.
Finish mixer. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Finisher, skein yarn, takes out tangles from skeins of yarn, straightens them
after they have been dyed, and twists 3 or 4 skeins into one bundle. Classified
as: Other employees.
Finishing-machine tender, cloth. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle
tenders.




56

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Fixer, general, does repair work on various machines and appliances about plant
and keeps them in proper running condition. Classified as: Other employees.
Floorman assists wherever there is any heavy lifting to be done, as handling rollers
for engravers and printers, setting up heavy rolls of cloth for female operators,
etc. When not assisting in heavy work, he is kept busy cleaning up, oiling
machinery, and trucking. Classified as: Floormen.
Flyer operator operates a combination dry can and stretcher which stretches cloth
lengthwise only. See also Drier tender; Tenter-frame tender. Classified as:
Other employees.
Folded-cloth tacker. (See Knotter.) Classified as: Knotters.
Folded-cloth taper. (See Paper taper, folded cloth.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Folder, cloth, hand, takes cloth, after it has been folded by hooker machine and
after it has been inspected, and doubles entire pile over by hand two or three
times and in different ways depending on what the trade desires, to make a neat
package easy to handle and attractive in appearance. Cloth is then ready to
be packed for shipment. Also folds, by hand, sheets and pillowcases for trade.
Classified as: Folders.
Folder, cloth, machine. (See Hooker-machine tender.) Classified as: Measurers.
Folder, mangle. (See Mangle folder.) Classified as: Folders.
Forcing-machine operator, printing. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as:
Jackmen, printing.
Foreman, assistant. (See Assistant foreman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Frame clipper. (See Tenter-frame clipper.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders.
Frame feeder. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders.
Frame operator. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame
tenders.
Frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders.
Friction-calender operator. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender
tenders.
Front tender, dyeing machine, tends front of dyeing machine to see that cloth
enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Dyeing-machine tender.
Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders.
Front tender, soaper, tends front of soaping machine to see that cloth enters
properly and is being fed evenly. See also Soaper tender. Classified as:
Soaper tenders.
Frost-calender operator operates a machine known as the “ Frost” calender.
See also Calender tender. Classified as: Calender tenders.
Gas singer. (See Singer.) Classified as: Singers.
General laborer does all kinds of unskilled work in various departments of the plant,
such as sweeping, cleaning, washing windows, trucking, etc. Classified as:
Other employees.
General utility man. (See Utility man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Grader, cloth, examines pieces of cloth thrown out by inspectors for various reasons
a*id classifies them into groups such as “ firsts” , “ seconds” , etc. Classified as:
Other employees.
Gray ager tender. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders.
Gray-cloth boy helps back gray tender at back of cloth printing machine; also piles
and trucks gray cloth where needed. Classified as: Other employees.
Gray-cloth-room man looks after delivery of gray goods to bleach house as needed.
Classified as: Other employees.
Gray-cloth tender, printing. (See Back tender, printing.) Classified as: Back
tenders, printing.
Gray-roll man, trucking. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Gray washer, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Grinder, paint. (See Paint grinder.) Classified as: Other employees.
Gum maker. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees. *
Gum mixer. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Hand engraver. (See Engraver, hand.) Classified as: Engravers, hand.
Hand-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame clipper.) Classified as: Tenter-frame
tenders.
Hand painter, defects, printed cloth. (See Touch-up man, printed cloth.) Classi­
fied as: Other employees.
Hand trucker. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.




APPENDIX.—OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

57

Hanger man, yarn mercerizing, hangs skeins of yarn on arms of mercerizing device,
where it is subjected to one or more chemical treatments necessary in this
process. Classified as: Other employees.
Head cloth inspector, working, has supervision over cloth inspection force. See
also Working foreman. Classified as: Other employees.
Hemmer, sheets. (See Sheet sewer.) Classified as: Sewers.
Hermatite-machine operator, water proofing, tends machine which waterproofs cloth
with hermatite. See also Padding-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders.
Hooker-machine tender operates machine which automatically measures cloth as
it is arranged into folds, usually of 1 or 1% yard lengths. It consists essentially
of a table hinged in the middle, with iron jaws projecting over each end, and
springs to hold table up against jaws. Cloth is threaded over slats to give it a
little tension and ends are caught under one jaw. Machine is then started by
throwing a lever and cloth is guided by a blade which is made to swing back
and forth, hooking cloth under jaw at each end. When a seam comes along
showing end of cut, machine is stopped and seam ripped out or cloth cut near
it. A foot lever depresses table enough to remove measured cloth. Classified
. as: Measurers.
Hoop puller places and adjusts hoops or steel tie bands on bales of cloth after
they have been reduced to correct size in a press and fastens them securely.
Classified as: Other employees.
Hot-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame
tenders.
Hot-frame tender's helper assists tenter-frame tender in placing rolls of cloth on
unwinding spindle, and any other general work where needed. Classified as:
Other employees.
Indigo dyer operates dyeing machine in which indigo-dye liquor is used to dye
cloth. See also Dveing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine
tenders.
Indigo-machine repairer. (See Fixer, general; also Millwright.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Indigo-machine tender, cloth. (See Indigo vat tender, cloth.) Classified as:
Dyeing-machine tenders.
Indigo mixer. (See Color mixer.) Classified as: Color mixers.
Indigo-vat tender, cloth, tends an indigo vat which is a large tank about 4 feet
deep, 10 feet long, and about 3 feet wide. Rollers to guide cloth are placed
wherever needed to give the proper immersion. Cloth is led in over a rack, and
after being immersed in dye is run between a pair of squeeze rollers and over a
number of guide rollers to expose it fully to the air so as to allow the indigo
to oxidize. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine
tenders.
Indigo-vat tender, warp, tends machine used for indigo dj^eing of yarn in chain
form. See also Vat tender, warp dyeing. Classified as: Other employees.
Inspector, acid strength. (See Acid-strength inspector.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Inspector, cloth, uses a small microscope and measuring instruments to examine
cloth after it is opened and before it is put through any process. Measures
specific dimensions of cloth, counts warp and filling threads to determine
weave; examines yarn for size and tests strength of cloth; and in general deter­
mines if cloth is of type and standard represented. Also examines each cut of
finished cloth by turning each fold first one side then the other so that the
whole length is exposed to view and looks for imperfections of color, stains, etc.,
which developed in dyeing or finishing processes. May make minor repairs or
cut out imperfect pieces if near end of cut. Cloth is then ready for folders who
prepare it for market. Classified as: Inspectors.
Inspector, cloth colors. (See Color inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors.
Inspector, engraved rollers. (See Roller inspector.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Inspector, samples, looks over work of sample maker, passing upon it and keeping
a record as to the neatness, efficiency, and accuracy. Classified as: Other
employees.
Inspector's helper, cloth, assists inspector, cloth, in handling cloth, helping to
spread it out, removing it when inspected, and making himself generally useful;
may assist in simple tests. Classified as: Other employees.




58

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Instructor, sample card making, instructs employees in method of making up
cloth sample cards. Classified as: Other employees.
Ironer, hand, sheets and pillowcases, uses an electric hand iron to smooth out hems
on sheets and pillow cases. Classified as: Other employees.
Jacket, cloth rolls, conveys, by hand, cloth roll through which a long iron rod runs
with room at each end for a hand-hold, so that two men, one at each end,
carry it from one department to another as desired. Classified as: Other
employees.
Jackmany printing, puts copper rollers on mandrils and otherwise handles rollers
and mandrils, lifting them onto trucks, moving them about, putting them
together with forcing jack, using care not to weaken or break them, trucking
them to printing machine, and setting them into bearings on machine. Bulk
of work is merely heavy manual labor. Classified as: Jackmen, printing.
Jackman’s helper assists jackman, under his direction, in handling rollers and
mandrils, trucking them where needed. Classified as: Other employees.
Jig-dyeing machine tender tends dyeing machine, which consists essentially of
a vat to hold liquor, with guide rollers near top and near bottom. Above
vat are two pairs of arms or supports and the necessary gears for driving.
Roll of cloth to be dyed is placed in open form on one pair of arms and the
end directed around guide rollers in vat so it will be conveyed down and up
through dye liquor. After it passes out of liquor it is wound on a roller on
other pair of arms. After running cloth through once, gear can be shifted
so as to wind cloth back on first roller. It may be run through as many times
as is necessary to get correct shade. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classi­
fied as: Dyeing-machine tenders.
Kaumagraph operator, cloth stamping, operates a machine used for stamping
trade mark in selvage of cloth. See also Stamper, cloth, trade mark. Classi­
fied as: Other employees.
Kettlemany color mixing, supervises preparation of standard colors and “ reduc­
ing” paste in accordance with orders and formulas received from chief colorist.
Directs work of helpers who go for dry drugs; sees that they put these into
proper kettle, that proper amount of water is added, and that steam is kept
up to proper temperature; tells them when to turn it off and when to remove
the color; and looks after the storage of these colors in hogsheads or other
containers for future use; also sees that the floors and kettles are kept clean.
Kettles used for this purpose are made of copper and usually hold 50 to 60
gallons, with a steam jacket between the inner and outer surface which allows
the mixture to be boiled. The kettles are supported between two uprights,
which allows them to be tipped to pour out contents. Classified as: Kettlemen, color mixing.
Kettleman’s helper works under direction of kettleman on any work incident
to preparation of standard colors and reducing paste. Uses truck to convey
dry drugs and chemicals from drug room to kettles, puts them into kettles,
turns steam on and off as needed, pours out color or paste into tubs, trucks
color or paste and dumps it into proper hogshead, washes and cleans tubs and
kettles thoroughly between each batch, and washes floors around kettles with
a hose at least once a day. Classified as: Kettlemen’s helpers.
Kier boiler prepares kiers for boiling and looks after boiling. Directs filling of
kier with cloth and opens and closes valves admitting liquor and those admit­
ting steam whenever necessary. Watches from time to time to see that liquor
is circulating as it should and keeps track of length of time each batch is in.
As boiling continues throughout 24 hours of each day, it is necessary that
some employees work at night. Kier is a large iron receptacle with a false
bottom raised several inches to keep cloth off steam pipes, and is used for
treating or bleaching cloth that requires a long period of time. It is usually
located below level of floor, with manhole through which workers enter.
Classified as: Kier boilers.
Kier boiler’s helper assists kier boiler in preparing boiler for cloth, working
under his direction. Classified as: Other employees.
Kier packer. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters.
Kier piler. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters.
Kier plaiter. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters.
Knotter uses strong needle with heavy thread or string to put stitches (usually
two) through selvages of top and bottom plies at each end of folded cloth,
each stitch binding top fold to bottom one. These stitches hold ends of cloth
so that it remains as folded. Classified as: Knotters.




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

59

Label-machine operator. (See Label sewer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Label sewer operates a sewing machine to stitch cotton labels which show style
number, quality, etc., on sheets and pillowcases. See also Ticketer. Classi­
fied as: Other employees.
Labeler, cloth boards, uses brush to spread paste on labels and sticks them over
ends of boards on which cloth is to be wound. These labels contain style
number, trade name, etc. Classified as: Other employees.
Laboratory tester makes tests of colors and finished products for fastness of color.
Classified as: Other employees.
Laborer, general. (See General laborer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Lathe hand. (See Roller turner.) Classified as: Roller turners.
Layer-out, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers.
Leader is a minor supervisory employee who regularly works with others and
sets the pace for the group in which he is employed. Classified as: Other
employees.
Lime-kier boiler. (See Kier boiler.) Classified as: Kier boilers.
Limeing washer tender, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer
tenders.
Long John washing-machine tender. (See Color-John washer tender.) Classified
as: Washer tenders.
Long-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders.
Long tenter-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenterframe tenders.
Loose-starch man. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Lot chaser watches to see that different lots of cloth which belong together are
kept together as they go through various operations of plant. Classified as:
Other employees.
Machine cutter, samples. (See Sample cutter.) Classified as: Other employees.
Machine engraver. (See Engraver, machine.) Classified as: Engravers, machine.
Machine engraver’s helper. (See Bumper.) Classified as: Other employees.
Machinist operates such machines as drill presses, lathe, milling, etc., in machine
shop, to make or repair broken parts of productive machines. Classified as:
Other employees.
Machinist1s helper assists machinist by passing tools or parts used in repair
of machines. Classified as: Other employees.
Maintenance man looks after general maintenance of buildings, trucks, windows,
etc., to see that they are kept in good operating condition. Classified as:
Other employees.
Maker-up, folding. (See Folder, cloth, hand.) Classified as: Folders.
Mandril-press hand. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as: Jackmen, printing.
Mangle feeder. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Mangle folder folds sheets and pillowcases by hand for trade as they come
from mangle ironer. They are then ready to be packed for shipment. Classi­
fied as: Folders.
Mangle tender operates a mangle consisting of a series of two or more cylinders
placed one on top of the other so their centers will be in the same vertical
plane and so the “ nip” between any two can be regulated as to pressure. At
feed end of machine is an “ expander” designed to stretch cloth to a desired
width. Most mangles have a box or trough beneath bowls containing liquor
in which cloth is immersed before mangling, and are usually designated by
kind of liquor in box, such as water mangle, starch mangle, etc. Primary pur­
pose of the mangle is to wet cloth and press it out smoothly, but by manipulat­
ing cloth between the bowls it is possible to assist in giving it different “ finishes.”
Mangle is usually operated in connection with either a set of dry cans or tenter
frame. Tender regulates supply of water, starch, or other material in box con­
nected with mangle; regulates “ nip” or pressure on bowls; guides cloth as it
enters, keeping it straight and smooth; cleans and oils machine; washes out
starch box and keeps machine threaded with a band of strong cloth called
“ listing” when the machine is not running. Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Marker, cloth. (See Ticketer; also Label sewer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Marker, shipments. (See Stenciler.) Classified as: Other employees.
Mason uses stone or brick and mortar to form or repair walls, foundation, walks,
etc., around plant. Classified as: Other employees.
Matcher, cloth reverser. (See Dumper.) Classified as: Other employees.
Matcher, shades. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.




60

DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Measurer operates hooker or other measuring machine to determine length of
cloth for each job to be run through dyeing or finishing plant. Also after
finishing processes again measures this cloth to determine number of yards in
each cut, either by counting folds by hand'or running it through hooker-folding machine. Record of yards is entered on tag and attached to each piece.
Classified as: Measurers.
Measurer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Mercerizer operates machine known as mercerizing range. By this process cloth
is given a luster similar to that of silk. Cloth is led through a water mangle,
trough of which contains solution of strong caustic soda, from here it goes to
a tentering frame which holds it out to proper width. In its passage it is
sprayed with water and on emerging at other end, it runs through two water
mangles, the trough of the first containing dilute sulphuric acid and that of
the second containing water. It is then plaited down on trucks and conveyed
to a set of dry cans to be dried. See also Mangle tender; Tenter-frame tender;
Drier tender: Swing tender. Classified as: Mercerizers.
Messenger. {See Errand boy.) Classified as: Other employees.
Mill turner. {See Steel turner.) Classified as: Other employees.
Millwright installs or moves machines in plant, puts up and maintains shafting,
pulleys, etc., in correct working condition. Classified as: Other employees.
Mixer, ammonia solution. {See Ammonia-solution preparer.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Mixer, bath. {See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Mixer, caustic soda. {See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Mixer, chemicals. {See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers.
Mixer, colors. {See Color mixer.) Classified as: Color mixers.
Mixer, soap. {See Soap mixer.) Classified as: Soap mixers.
Moistening-machine operator. {See Sprinkler tender.) Classified as: Sprinkler
tenders.
Nailer, cases. (See Nailer, packing boxes.) Classified as: Other employees.
Nailer, packing boxes, uses hammer and nails to fasten covers on boxes which are
packed ready for shipment. May also construct these boxes. See also Box
maker. Classified as: Other employees.
Napper tender operates machine for raising nap or fuzz evenly over surface of
cloth, giving it a woolly appearance. Finished product is called “ flannelette.”
Operator threads cloth over and around a cylinder whose surface is densely
studded with little steel wires or barbs. This cylinder rotates in opposite
direction from others, thus drawing out a multitude of little ends of fibers over
surface of cloth, giving it desired “ fuzzy” effect. Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Net-drier tender runs a drier in which a net supports cloth and keeps it off hot
cans while it is being dried. See also Drier tender. Classified as: Drier
tenders.
Numberer, tickets. {See Ticketer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Oil-spot washer washes out oil or grease spots from woven goods, using a hand
brush or a cloth rubber (a piece of wood corrugated on bottom with a handle
on top), a board, soap and water, or prepared chemicals. Classified as: Other
employees.
Open soaper. {See Soaper tender.) Classified as: Soaper tenders.
Open stockman, cloth. {See Stockman, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Opener, bales, cloth, opens up bales of cloth as they are received at converting
plant or are brought in from storeroom; removes tie bands and burlap from
bales, cuts stitches binding pieces and places them in position for inspector or
lays out and distributes to other workers; may also pull out ends for sewer.
Classified as: Openers.
Opener, cloth, from rope form. (See Scutcher tender.) Classified as: Scutcher
tenders.
Opener, hand, cloth, from rope form. (See Scutcher tender.) Classified as:
Scutcher tenders.
Order clerk. (See Shipping clerk.) Classified as: Other employees.
Order packer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers.
Packer puts specific number of cuts of folded cloth into packing cases and nails
on covers; also trucks cases to shipping or storage departments. Classified as:
Packers.




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61

Packing-box maker. (See Box maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Padding-machine tender tends machine used for impregnating cloth with mordants,
waterproofing materials, etc., which is essentially same as the jig-dyeing ma­
chine, except that cloth passes through a pair of squeeze rollers to press out
excess liquor before being wound. See also Jig-dyeing machine tender; Dyeingmachine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders.
Paint grinder operates machine which grinds lumps of paint materials to powder
form. Also feeds these materials into hopper of machine. Classified as:
Other employees.
Paint-machine operator, cloth, operates machine consisting of a large cylinder with
a number of bristle brushes around its circumference, used for painting special
designs on cloth as it is guided through machine under its rotating cylinder.
Classified as: Other employees.
Painter, cloth. (See Touch-up man, printed cloth; also Paint-machine operator,
cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Palmer operator operates “ Palmer” machine used to press finished cloth. It
consists of 1 large heated drum and 3 or 4 smaller rollers. A blanket in form
of a belt is threaded over large drum and over small rollers, cloth is run between
blanket and heated drum, thus giving cloth its finish pressing. See also
Calender tender. Classified as: Calender tenders.
Pantograph setter sets up pantograph machine for purpose of transferring design
from flat zinc plate to curved surface of copper roller. By this method design
may be copied on same scale as original, or on an enlarged or a reduced scale.
Various parts of machine are supported in an iron frame near table to which
zinc tracing plate is attached and above table is supported “ varnisher” roller
in which design is to be traced. Tracing point is stylus at end of one of the
sides of pantograph. Reproducing points are very small diamonds supported
on a rigid bar which is given a horizontal motion; “ repeats” to cover width of
roller can be made by attaching necessary number of diamond points to this
bar. Complicated systems of levers make up back part of machine. Setter
must have complete knowledge of machine and considerable skill and accuracy
in adjusting various parts, levers, and mechanisms. He sets in rollers, adjusts
levers to reproduce design in desired size, adjusts diamond points so they will
cut roller in proper places, fastens zinc plate firmly in proper position, and
keeps machine oiled and in repair. Classified as: Other employees. •
Pantographer runs a pantograph machine after pantograph setter has completely
set and adjusted it for work desired. Traces all lines of one color on zinc plate.
Stylus has a sharp point which fits into grooves cut in plate by plate cutter.
Operator sits at table and manipulates stylus with both hands and in addition
operates a foot lever which brings the diamond points into contact with roller
or releases them. While foot is held on lever, every movement of the stylus
causes diamond points to cut a corresponding line in varnish on roller. Oper­
ator must be careful to trace only one color on a roller, as a separate roller is
used for each different color. Lines cut in error, if discovered, may be painted
over. It is possible to set tools so that several repeats around roller as well
as those lengthwise of it can be made in one operation. Classified as: Other
employees.
Paper boy keeps wrapper of cloth bolts supplied with paper and may stick on
pasters, or do similar work. Classified as: Other employees.
Paper taper, folded cloth, puts paper bands on both ends of folded cloth; may
also put on ticket giving name and color of cloth and number of yards. See
also Bander, cloth, bolts; Ticketer. Classified as: Other employees.
Paperer, cloth. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Paperer, cloth boards. (See Labeler, cloth boards.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Passer, cloth cuts, works in cloth room as helper to other workers, performing such
duties as passing cuts of cloth from inspector to folder. Classified as: Other
employees.
Paste-board paperer. (See Labeler, cloth boards.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Paster, cloth boards. (See Labeler, cloth boards.) Classified as: Other employees.
Patch boy. (See Patch-process man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Patch drier. (See Patch-process man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Patch-process man puts first yard of cloth of new design through all processes
and returns it to printer for his inspection and approval. Classified as: Other
employees.
177409°—33------5




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DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Patch-steamer tender takes samples of cloth and puts them through steamer
processes in usual manner. See also Steamer tender. Classified as: Steamer
tenders.
Photo-engraver, cloth designs, photographs, prints, and etches designs or patterns
of cloth onto specially prepared zinc plates which will in turn be reproduced
and engraved on copper cylinders. Classified as: Other employees.
Photographer, doth designs, takes photograph, develops negative, makes film,
prints, and etches designs on zinc plates. Classified as: Other employees.
Piece-drier tender. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders.
Piece dyeing-machine tender tends machine that dyes cloth goods in open or rope
form as distinguished from yarn, skeins, warp, etc. See also Spiral dye-beck
tender; Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders.
Piece-goods packer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers.
Piece-goods receiving opener. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers.
Piece-goods washer. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Piler watches cloth as it comes from back of any machine where swing folding
attachment is used. Keeps it packed down and properly arranged as it falls
loosely on truck and removes truck, replacing it with an empty one. Classified
as: Pilers.
Pillowcase cleaner. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Pillowcase cloth tearer. (See Tearer, cloth for sheets.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Pillowcase folder. (See Mangle folder.) Classified as: Folders.
Pillowcase sewer. (See Sheet sewer.) Classified as: Sewers.
Pillowcase stamper. (See Stamper, cloth, trade mark.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Pillowcase straightener. (See Pillowcase turner.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Pillowcase turner turns pillowcases right side out by hand, after seaming; may
also straighten out seams and make them ready to be pressed. Classified as:
Other employees.
Pillowcase wrapper. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Pipe fitter cuts and fits new pipe where needed. Repairs and maintains steaming,
drying, dyeing, and draining systems. Also may look after sanitary plumbing
about plant. Classified as: Other employees.
Pipe fitter’s helper assists pipe fitter in cutting and fitting steam and other pipe
used about plant. Classified as: Other employees.
Plain calender tender. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders.
Plaiter plaits down rope of cloth either in a pit or bin or in a large iron receptacle
known as a kier for purpose of bleaching. A wince overhead draws cloth and
it falls down into pit or kier. Plaiter directs fall of cloth with wooden stick,
causing cloth to lie in laps, forming uniform layers, so it will not tangle when
coming out and, if in a kier, so liquor can readily circulate through it. Classi­
fied as: Plaiters.
Plaiter-down. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders.
Plate cutter, cloth designs, takes the zinc plate with pencil design drawn on it by
sketch maker and with a graver similar to those used by engraver, hand, cuts
a slight depression in the zinc plate along pencil lines. This is very exacting
work, as lines must be cut to a uniform depth and joints made clean and accu­
rate. Must also keep cutting tools sharp. Classified as: Other employees.
Plate painter uses small brush to paint in different colors of design on zinc plate
for guidance of pantographer. All of any one color in original must be one
color on plate as pantographer traces lines of only one color on a given roller.
Classified as: Other employees.
Plate retoucher, cloth designs, uses graving instrument by hand to retrace designs
on plates that may be imperfect. Classified as: Other employees.
Polisher, metal, places copper roller which is to be polished on supports of ma­
chine, which permits roller to turn in trough of water; operator holds polishing
stone against roller while it rotates in water. Considerable strength is required
in placing roller in position and some skill in manipulation of polishing stone;
also judgment to determine when roller is sufficiently polished. Classified as:
Polishers, metal.
Polisher, rollers. (See Polisher, metal.) Classified as: Polishers, metal.
Preparing mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Pressman, cloth baling. (See Baler, cloth.) Classified as: Balers.
Pressure-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders.
Printer, cloth. (See Printing-machine tender.) Classified as: Printing-machine
tenders.




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TEEMS AND DEFINITIONS

63

Printer, tickets, operates small printing press to print tickets, tags, and pasters
upon which the style number, yardage, etc., of products are shown. May also
print record cards or do other similar work for plant office. Classified as: Other
employees.
Printing-machine tender operates machine to print designs of one or more colors
on cloth together with its dry cans and other appurtenances. Is responsible
for proper printing of cloth; adjusts machine and keeps it in repair; starts,
stops, and regulates its speed. Watches cloth for imperfections as it is printed
and takes immediate steps to correct cause of any defects. For every color
in the pattern there is a separate engraved roller and these rollers must be
exactly fitted. This work is termed “ pitching pattern.” Is assisted by back
tender, spare hand, and sometimes color boy. Below each copper roller and in
contact with it is another roller of wood or a stiff brush called “ furnisher”
which revolves so that lower part is submerged in the color liquor contained in
a pan beneath it and upper part in contact with copper roller, thus furnishing
the color to it. Between furnisher and pressure bowl is a sharp, smooth,
steel blade called a “ doctor” designed to scrape all color off surface and leave
it only in engraved parts. Behind printing machine are supports for holding
rolls of cloth known as “ back greys” and white cloth which is to be printed.
Cloth is guided around pressure bowl and between it and several engraved
rollers. Each prints its color design on cloth in its proper place to make
pattern as designed. Cloth is then guided to dry cans and from these it is
swung into folds on truck. Classified as: Printing-machine tenders.
Printing-machine tender's helper. (See Spare hand, cloth printing.) Classified
as: Other employees.
Printing-press feeder, tickets. (See Printer, tickets.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Proctor-drier tender operates a drier known as the “ Proctor.” See also Drier
tender. Classified as: Drier tenders.
Process checker. (See Checker, processes.) Classified as: Other employees.
Pumper, acid solutions. (See Acid-pump man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Pumper, bleaching solutions. (See Acid-pump man.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Pumper, water, operates pumps which supply fresh water to washing machines
and other places where needed. Classified as: Other employees.
Pure comb-mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Pure range-mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Push-box man. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Quill winder. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Quiller tender. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Bag man collects defective pieces of cloth cut out by inspectors and other similar
waste and places it in sacks or baling press to be sold later as waste. Classified
as: Other employees.
Rag-table sorter. (See Remnant man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Range feeder, cloth, runs a combination dyeing machine and dry can used to dye
cloth and then dry it. See also Dyeing-machine tender; Drier tender.
Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders.
Ranger, dyeing machine. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders.
Ranger, mangle. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Rear-end man, dry cans. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers.
Receiving opener, bales, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers.
Reclaimer, caustic soda. (See Caustic-soda reclaimer.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Reclaimer, soap. (See Soap reclaimer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Recovery man, chemicals. (See Caustic-soda reclaimer; also Soap reclaimer.)
Classified as: Other employees.
Red dyeing-machine tender. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders.
Red machine-washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Reed washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Reel winder operates machine which transfers yarn from spools or bobbins to
skeins for purpose of dyeing in skeins. Classified as: Yarn winders.




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DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Rehandler, folded cloth, takes regular order of folded cloth from stock and refolds,
stamps, and tickets it in special manner as ordered by customer. Classified as:
Other employees.
Remnant man works in cloth room sorting and bundling short pieces of cloth which
may be defective or short pieces cut from regular lengths of cloth by inspectors.
Perfect pieces are sorted by lengths and assembled into bundles of 100 yards for
sale as remnants. Defective pieces, known as “ rags” , are later placed in bales
and sold as waste. Classified as: Other employees.
Remnant sorter. (See Remnant man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Repairer, machines. (See Fixer, general.) Classified as: Other employees.
Return-goods handler returns poorly processed cloth to various departments for
reprocessing. Classified as: Other employees.
Rewinder, cloth, rewinds rolls of cloth, cuts out stitches between various cuts,
and pastes these ends together thus forming a smooth even surface where these
cuts join, which is necessary before running cloth through such machines as
calendering, printing, etc., machines. Classified as: Other employees.
Rewinder, yarn. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Rodman loads and unloads pressure steamer, a large room-like apparatus used for
steaming cloth when a longer period of treatment is required than is possible
with ager; in its bottom are steam pipes and at one end is a large door which
closes hermetically. On a false bottom are two rails which can be extended
outside chamber when door is opened so that carriage or rack which supports
cloth can be moved in an out to load and unload. Three rodmen usually work
together and look after three steamers. Prior to loading, 3 or 4 pieces of cloth
are drawn together and swung off onto a truck as one sheet. Rodmen hang all
pieces as one over wooden rods or pins of cloth carriage so as to get as many up
and down stretches as possible. When loaded, rodmen push carriage into
chamber and close door. After cloth has been treated sufficiently steam is
turned off, rodmen pull out carriage, remove rods and pile cloth on a truck and
send it to swing tender to separate pieces and swing-plait cloth. Classified as:
Rodmen.
Rodney Hunt washer operator operates washer known as a “ Rodney Hunt.”
See also Washer tender. Classified as: Washer tenders.
Roll calender tender. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders.
Roll hauler cloth, removes rolls of cloth from machine and hauls them to packing
and shipping department. Classified as: Truckers.
Roll-off machine operator. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders.
Roll pusher. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Roller handler, printing. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as: Jackmen,
printing.
Roller inspector works at bench like engraver, hand; examines engraved roller very
carefully. If lines are missing, cuts them in with a graver. If lines are en­
graved where they should not be, fills them up with copper, by laying in piece
of copper wire, cut to proper length to fill groove, then pounds this in with a
light hammer and rubs it over with a burnishing steel to smooth it. This is
fine and exacting work, as failure to find mistakes will cause much trouble
later. This work is sometimes done by engraver, hand. Classified as: Other
employees.
Roller painter uses small brush by hand to cover with varnish certain parts of
roller that have been indicated by some mark as not to be etched. Care must
be exercised to put varnish only where directed and to make varnish edge clear
cut. Classified as: Other employees.
Roller polisher. (See Polisher, metal.) Classified as: Polishers, metal.
Roller storer, engravings. (See Shell-room man, engraved rollers.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Roller turner operates specially devised lathe to turn copper rollers down to proper
size, also turns designs off discarded rollers. Operator centers and fastens
stock in position on machine, turns power on and off, also makes adjustments
of machinery during its operation. After roller is turned down to proper size,
may burnish it by holding smooth piece of steel against it. Classified as:
Roller turners.
Roller varnisher coats copper rollers for pantographing with an acid-resisting sub­
stance called in the trade “ varnish.” After it has been polished roller is
placed in a turning machine and quantity of varnish is dabbed in it with a
brush; roller is then turned by power while varnisher presses a smooth strip
of wood against it to spread varnish evenly over roller, which is then taken
out, stood on end and boiling water poured into it, thus heating roller and




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

65

melting varnish just enough to make it absolutely smooth. Roller is then
allowed to cool and is ready for pantographing. May also mix and boil varnish.
Classified as: Other employees.
Roller man, engraving. (See Engraver, hand.) Classified as: Engravers, hand.
Rope soaper tender. (See Soaper tender.) Classified as: Soaper tenders.
Salvager, bagging, sorts and reclaims usable burlap which has been removed from
incoming bales of goods, and places them in bundles or sacks; straightens out
metal tie-bands, and may repaint them by dipping for use on shipments.
Classified as: Other employees.
Sample card man. (See Sample maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Sample checker compares samples of cloth on card with cloth and order for same.
Classified as: Other employees.
Sample cutter cuts samples out of cloth along lines indicated by swatch folder.
Sometimes uses a die or punch, which he hits on the head with a mallet, or an
automatic knife. When the latter is used, cloth is held firm by operator with
a foot lever and knife is guided by hand. These employees sometimes do
swatch folding, card and bookmaking, and mailing. Classified as: Other
employees.
Sample maker uses a small brush to spread paste by hand on samples of cloth,
which have been cut to specific size and sticks them in proper position on cards
prepared for them. Sometimes binds several of these cards together to make a
book of samples. See also Sample cutter; and swatch folder. Classified as:
Other employees.
Sample steamer. (See Patch-steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders.
Sanforize tester determines by tests how much cloth goods should be shrunk both
as to width and length so that future laundering of the cloth will not shrink it
any more. Classified as: Other employees.
Sanforizer, doth, operates special machine used for shrinking cloth in similar
manner to that described under ‘ ‘ shrinking-machine operator, cloth,” except
that in sanforizing method machine is specially arranged so that cloth is
shrunken to its fullest extent. Classified as: Other employees.
Saturating-machine tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Sawyer, shipping-case parts, operates power saw to trim boards to proper sizes for
making shipping cases for product. Classified as: Other employees.
Schreiner tender operates a machine that imparts a wavy appearance to cloth. In
this finishing operation cloth is passed between rolls covered with great number
of finely engraved lines cut in wavy formation. When put under pressure of
about 4,500 pounds, these ridges of rolls are pressed into fabric thus producing
wavy effect, with result that fiat surface of cloth is broken up into little planes
that reflect light in special manner. Heating of rolls makes this reflected
luster more lasting. Mercerized cotton in Schreiner finish rivals silk in appear­
ance. Classified as: Calender tenders.
Scrubber washes floors in plant either by hand, using a brush, mop, and water, or a
machine with a rotating device which causes brushes to move in a circular
motion thus cleaning floor. Classified as: Other employees.
Scutcher tender tends a scutcher machine which is designed to open cloth to its
full width after it has been bleached, dyed, or otherwise processed in rope form.
Machine consists of a beater and scrimp rail and a pair of drag rollers. It is
supported near ceiling with a considerable stretch between it and the last
pot-eye through which cloth passes. This arrangement permits cloth to open
up as much as possible before reaching scutcher, and prevents twisting and
tangling. Cloth is drawn by drag rollers of scutcher first coming in contact
with beater which revolves against direction of cloth* and thus opens it to
width. As cloth passes over scrimp rail, it is stretched out and freed of creases.
Cloth can now be swung onto a truck or led to another machine. As scutcher
machines require little attention, their operators also often tend other machines,
such as mangles, or swing folders. Classified as: Scutcher tenders.
Second hand assists overseers, work being more or less of a supervisory nature.
Is responsible for having work come from machines according to specifications;
sees that employees are doing their work and doing it properly: issues orders;
and makes or supervises the making of important changes or repairs of ma­
chinery. Classified as: Other employees.
Seconds sorter arranges seconds of sheets and pillowcases in proper size and grade.
Classified as: Other employees.
Section hand occupies a supervisory position directly under second hand. Has
charge of certain sections in which he must supervise workers and see that




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DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

work comes off machines properly; makes repairs and changes in machinery;
and sees that machines are properly oiled and cleaned. Classified as: Other
employees.
Serging-machine operator operates sewing machine to stitch row of binding stitches
at end of cloth to prevent raveling. See also Sewer. Classified as: Sewers.
Sewer sews together, in various departments, cuts or pieces of cloth or ends of rolls
to make a continuous run of cloth of desired length. Sewer uses an ordinary
sewing-machine head fastened in a small portable iron frame about 3 feet high.
It can be operated with a pedal or by motor; leading end of piece of cloth is
lapped over tail end of another and sewed together. Stitches are usually large
and loose and can be easily ripped out. May also sew and hem sheets and
pillowcases. Classified as:"Sewers.
Sewing-machine operator. (See Sewer.) Classified as: Sewers.
Shade-cloth paperer. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Shade grader, cloth. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Shade matcher, cloth, matches shades or colors of various pieces of dyed cloth,
placing them on trucks for shipment or storage, grouped according to color.
Classified as: Other employees.
Shader, cloth. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Shearer, cloth. (See Shearing-machine operator.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Shearing-machine operator operates machine which shears off protruding fiber from
one side of cloth as it passes through, leaving an even and smooth surface.
Classified as: Other employees.
Sheet cleaner. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Sheet-cloth picker selects rolls of cloth from stock room which are to be made into
sheets. Classified as: Other employees.
Sheet-cloth tearer. (See Tearer, cloth for sheets.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Sheet folder; (See Mangle folder.) Classified as: Folders.
Sheet hemmer. (See Sheet sewer.) Classified as: Sewers.
Sheet inspector. (See Inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors.
Sheet-metal worker uses hand tools or may operate special machines to cut, punch,
or bend cold plate or sheet metal into various sizes or shapes for use about
finishing plant. Classified as: Other employees.
Sheet sewer operates sewing machine to put hems in sheets and pillowcases. See
also Sewer. Classified as: Sewers.
Sheet stamper. (See Stamper, cloth, trade mark.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Sheet wrapper. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Shell-room man, engraved rollers, uses hand truck to convey copper rollers from
storage room to engraving department and from engraving department to
printing department; maintains records of rollers being used, and stores them
on racks when not in use. Classified as: Other employees.
Shipping clerk directs work of packing and marking bales and packages for ship­
ment, may assist in loading cars and trucks, and maintains records of all ship­
ments; Classified as: Other employees.
Short tenter-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenterframe tenders.
Shrinking-machine operator, cloth, operates a machine used to shrink cloth. It
consists principally of a long trough containing boiling water, with straps or
belts along side edges, pins protruding from these belts. Racks are on each
end of the trough to support the rolls of cloth as they are unwound and wound
again. Cloth is placed on rack on one end of trough and fed through an auto­
matic feeder device which hooks the edges of cloth on the pins protruding from
the belts along each edge of the trough in such a manner that there is a slight
gathering between each pin, this gathering being governed by the amount
cloth is to be shrunk. Cloth is carried over steam arising from boiling water
thus causing it to shrink, and is wound onto a roll on other end of machine.
Classified as: Other employees.
Silicate-washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Singer runs a singeing machine which burns nap off cloth. Operator watches
cloth, as it runs through very rapidly, to see that it goes smoothly and flat and
that it comes off properly singed and not scorched. Keeps plates at proper
temperature and feeds fuel, or if a gas machine, must regulate flame. Machine
must be run constantly, for slightest stop is sure to burn cloth. When not
running, machine is left threaded with a leader. There are two types of
machines— plate and gas. Plate type consists of two curved copper plates




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

67

set in fire clay over fire box in which coke or oil is burned. Cloth is led in
open width into machine from back, passes under guide rollers over hot plates,
through water mangle and out. While passing over plates, nap is burned off.
Gas type has two long rows of Bunsen burners slightly longer than width of
cloth. Cloth in open width is led first through one flame, around three or four
guide rollers, then through other flame, then through water mangle and out.
Classified as: Singers.
Singer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Singeing-machine tender. (See Singer.) Classified as: Singers.
Single piler. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers.
Size hauler. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Size maker mixes together and boils materials necessary to make preparation
known as “ size” used for starching or filling cloth goods to give it body and
weight. Classified as: Other employees.
Skein-goods packer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers.
Skein-goods receiving opener opens up bales of skein yam received at converting
plant for dyeing, etc.; checks contents and distributes it to proper department.
Classified as: Openers.
Skein winder. (See Reel winder.) Classified as: Yam winders.
Skein-yarn boiler-off. (See Boil-off man, skein yam.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Skein-yarn drier places skeins of yarn on a pole and lays a number of poles on a
rack. Rolls entire rack into drying oven. Classified as: Other employees.
Skein-yarn dyer. (See Dyer, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees.
Skein-yarn finisher. (See Finisher, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees.
Skein-yarn mercerizer. (See Hanger man, yarn mercerizing.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Sketch maker uses sketch camera to make enlarged sketches of cloth patterns pre­
pared by designer. This camera consists of lenses, reflector, and strong electric
light. Design is put into camera and when light is turned on reflection of
design is thrown on a flat surface or table. Instrument can be adjusted so
as to throw an image increased any number of times size of original (5 times
being usual). Sketch maker places on table flat sheet of zinc, usually about
a foot square, the surface of which is painted white. When room is darkened,
enlargement of design is reflected very clearly on this white surface. Sketch
maker traces design in pencil on zinc, then takes zinc plate back to drawing
table where he smooths out lines and corrects imperfections that are brought
out in enlargement. Also outlines every different color and shade; may even
rearrange repeats of design on approval of overseer. Plate is then ready for
plate cutter. Classified as: Other employees.
Skying watcher, warp oxidizing, watches warp while it is being oxidized, after it
has been through dye vat, to detect any break or other accident. Classified as:
Other employees.
Soap mixer fills large mixing tanks with water and measures in definite quantities
of powdered soap, soda ash, and other ingredients, as directed by foreman.
Tanks are mechanically agitated and mixer has control of this mechanism.
Soap solution when ready is drawn off by gravity. Classified as: Soap mixers.
Soap-mixer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified
as: Other employees
Soap reclaimer uses chemicals to reclaim soap from solutions that have been used
in finishing processes of cloth. Classified as: Other employees.
Soaper tender runs an open soaper machine in which cloth is soaped, washed, and
treated with a “ fixing” agent after it is printed. Tender fills becks with proper
liquor, starts and stops machine, sees that cloth is running through smoothly,
and oils, cleans, and repairs machine. Machine consists of a series of 5 or 6
vats called “ becks” set fairly close together and just wide enough to give one
width of cloth a thorough immersion. On back edge of each beck is a pair of
bowls, one brass and the other of rubber, used to squeeze out the liquor before
it goes to the next, and inside each beck are guide rollers and a beater to agitate
the liquor and throw it against cloth. Contents of becks vary with kind of
work, but usually fixing agent is in first, water in second, soap in third and
fourth, and water in fifth and sixth. Steam can be injected to heat liquor if
necessary. Cloth goes through in a continuous sheet from one beck to the
next, being squeezed between each and finally passes to a set of dry cans where
it is dried and plaited down on trucks. Classified as: Soaper tenders.
Sorter, cloth stock. (See Assorter, cloth stock; also Seconds sorter.) Classified
as: Other employees.




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DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Sorter, remnants. (See Remnant man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Sour-bleaching plaiter. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters.
Spare hand, cloth printing, acts as a general all-round assistant to printer, doing
heavy and dirty work connected with cloth printing. Assists back tender to
set up rolls of cloth and to take down color boxes and brushes at night. Rubs
excess color off brushes into proper pans, empties colors into tubs, and trucks
pans and brushes out to be washed. Washes floor around machine each night.
Classified as: Other employees.
Spare hand, general, is a general worker with considerable experience on various
kinds of work who fills in for absent workers or performs extra work wherever
needed. May do heavy lifting, trucking, etc. Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Spare piler. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers.
Spiral dye-beck tender runs a spiral dye-beck machine with curved bottom trough
or beck, usually about 5 or 6 feet long. Machine is used to dye cloth in rope
form. It is led in at one end and passes in a spiral to the other end, receiving as
many dips as are necessary. Surplus cloth is left in bottom as it passes through
to allow for a longer immersion. Cloth is run through squeeze rollers to remove
the excess dye. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders.
Splitter, warp, separates or splits ends of warp after it has been dyed, by grouping
a certain number of threads or ends together according to pattern as required
for each loom beam on which it is wound. Classified as: Other employees.
Spool winder. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Spot washer. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Sprinkler tender operates cloth-winding machine equipped with a dewing or
sprinkling device which sprays cloth with water as it is being wound on rolls.
Sprinkling is an important step, since it is essential that cloth has proper
amount of moisture to receive desired finish at calender. Rolls of wound
cloth, after sprinkling, are allowed to stand a specified time before being set
up to calender machine. See also Batcher, cloth winder. Classified as:
Sprinkler tenders.
Stamper, cloth, trade mark, uses a woodcut or other stamping device with ink-pad
to print trade mark or emblems on top fold of each cut of cloth, taking care to
place it in proper position, or may use inkpot, brush, and stencil for this pur­
pose. Classified as: Other employees.
Standard color maker. (See Color mixer.) Classified as: Color mixers.
Starch boiler. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Starch maker. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Starch mangle drier. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Starch mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Starch mixer. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees.
Starch mixer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified
as: Other employees.
Starch pourer watches starch box of mangle and keeps it filled with proper amount
of starch solution. Classified as: Other employees.
Steamer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Steamer tender has charge of the pressure steamers, which are large cylindrical
iron chambers used for steaming cloth for longer periods than required by ager.
Keeps accurate check on time that each batch of cloth is in steamer; maintains
steam to certain pressure; every 15 minutes must operate device on outside of
each steamer which turns over rods on inside of cylinder on which cloth is
loaded, thus avoiding “ rod marking” of cloth. Cloth is loaded into this
steamer by rodmen. Cloth is steamed from 1 to 2 hours. Classified as:
Steamer tenders.
Steel-cylinder turner. (See Steel turner.) Classified as: Other employees.
Steel turner operates specially devised lathe to turn steel dies and mills down to
proper size, and also to turn off steel surface on mill outside design to make
design stand out clearly. Operator places steel stock in lathe, adjusts cutting
tools, and turns power on and off. After piece is turned down to a given size,
may also smooth its surface. Classified as: Other employees.
Stenciler uses inkpot and stencil cut-out forms to print on each bale, box, or case
for shipment its contents, name and address of shipper, as well as to whom
consigned. Classified as: Other employees.
Stitcher, cloth pieces, sews together the ends of successive packs of cloth in various
departments, or stitches strings to cloth on which tags are hung. See also
Sewer. Classified as: Sewers.




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

69

Stock opener, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers.
Stockman, cloth, supervises work in cloth storeroom, maintains records of quan­
tity on hand and how distributed, and sees that it is segregated according to
style, color, weight, etc., looks after filling of orders or making up cases and
may assist in this work. Classified as: Other employees.
Stockman, colors. (See Color stockman.) Classified as: Other employees.
Stockman, dry drugs. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Stockman, engraved rollers. (See Shell-room man, engraved rollers.) Classified
as: Other employees.
Stockman, supplies, supervises work of unpacking supplies, such as brooms,
brushes, machine parts, etc., storing them in bins or other specified places;
looks after their distribution, maintaining records of stocks on hand and how
distributed, and may also assist in this work. Classified as: Other employees.
Storekeeper. (See Stockman, supplies.) Classified as: Other employees.
Strainer, colors, squeezes through cloth strainer into tubs colors, paste, etc.,
which were measured out by color mixer. This is done by twisting end of cloth,
forcing liquor through. Usually strains only a few dipperfuls at a time but
sometimes a tubful is strained at once by means of a screw device which
forces liquor through small eye by turning hand crank. Cloth is fastened to
end of screw. Liquor is strained to remove lumps or hard susbtances of any
kind. Classified as: Other employees.
Straw boss is responsible for correct performance of work done by specific group
of employees and regularly works with them. Classified as: Other employees.
Stretcher, cloth. (See Tenter-frame tender.)
Classified as: Tenter-frame
tenders.
Supply man. (See Stockman, supplies.) Classified as: Other employees.
Swatch folder marks and folds a piece of cloth so that sample cutter can get
greatest number of samples out of it with least possible waste. Sample cutters
sometimes do this work. Classified as: Other employees.
Sweeper uses brush or broom to gather up waste and dirt from floors of plant and
places it in receptacle for removal. Classified as: Other employees.
Swing-folder tender. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders.
Swing tender watches cloth, keeps it packed down and properly arranged as it
comes from back of any machine where swing-folding attachment is used, thus
folding it loosely on truck; moves each full truck away and replaces it with an
empty one, tearing off cloth to start a new batch. Machine consists of drag
and guide rollers and arms that swing back and forth as cloth is delivered to
truck. Classified as: Swing tenders.
Table worker does wrapping, tagging, marking, etc., of cuts of cloth, making them
ready for shipment. See also Wrapper, cloth; Ticketer; Stamper, cloth trade
mark. Classified as: Other employees.
Tacker, folded cloth. (See Knotter.) Classified as : Knotters.
Tagger, cloth. (See Ticketer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Taper, folded cloth. (See Paper taper, folded cloth.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Tearer, cloth for sheets, tears by hand from rolls of cloth pieces of specified
length or size for sheets or pillowcases which are to be hemmed. Classified as:
Other employees.
Tenter feeder. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders.
Tenter-frame boss, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other em­
ployees.
Tenter-frame clipper operates tenter frame that has hand clips in place of auto­
matic clips. This feeder closes clips by hand on the selvage of the cloth. This
type of machine requires two employees working together. (See also Tenterframe tender. Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders.
Tenter-frame feeder. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame
tenders.
Tenter-frame foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Tenter-frame tender feeds cloth into tentering machine, which stretches it by
means of pins or clips on two endless chains, which grip selvage of cloth and
operate along each side of machine, beginning narrow and diverging as they
move along, gradually stretching cloth to desired width, and keeps it thus
stretched while it is being dampened and dried after dyeing or starching.
Tender sets roll of cloth on unwinding spindle, threads end of cloth through
tension rollers, over endless band of clips or pins and so to delivery end of




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DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

machine where clips are automatically released; assists by hand engagement
of edge of cloth by pins or clips (some machines are equipped with automatic
guides, and may also be equipped with special mechanical movement of clip
chains to restore warp and filling to its correct shape); adjusts by screws
position of pins or clips to determine width of cloth; sometimes also regulates
passage of steam through drying pipes or temperature in hot-air drying
chamber. Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders.
Tenter-machine tailer removes trucks loaded with rolls of finished cloth from
delivery end of the tentering machine and replaces them with empty ones.
Classified as: Other employees.
Tester, cloth shrinking, puts samples of shrunken cloth through laundry and
returns them to shrinking-machine tender for his inspection and approval.
See also Sanforize tester. Classified as: Other employees.
Tester, laboratory. (See Laboratory tester.) Classified as: Other employees.
Tester, sanforizing. (See Sanforize tester.) Classified as: Other employees.
Third hand is a general utility man who assists second hand in supervising work
which is being done by other employees. Classified as: Other employees.
Throw-outs handler. (See Grader, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees.
Ticket maker. (See Ticketer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Ticket printer. (See Printer, tickets.) Classified as: Other employees.
Ticketer uses rubber stamp and ink-pad to stamp style number, yardage, quality,
etc., on tags and pasters and pastes them on cloth or sews a tag onto selvage.
Each cut of cloth must be properly marked before it goes to packing room.
Classified as: Other employees.
Tie-band painter cleans metal tie-bands which were cut from incoming bales of
cloth, and dips them in vats of paint so that they may again be used. Classified
as: Other employees.
Tie-band salvager. (See Salvager, bagging; also Tie-band painter.) Classified as
Other employees.
Tommy Dodd mangle tender operates a mangle known as “ Tommy Dodd.” See
also Mangle tender. Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Touch-up man, printed cloth, uses brush by hand with paints of various colors to
touch up and correct defects in printed designs on cloth. Classified as: Other
employees.
Transfer man, trucking. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Transfer operator. (See Pantographer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Trimmer, window shades. (See Window-shade trimmer.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Truck operator. (See Electric trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Truck operator's helper rides power truck to and from various departments of
plant to help operator load and unload supplies, colors, chemicals, cloth rolls,
etc. Classified as: Other employees.
Trucker uses hand or power truck to convey colors, chemicals, supplies, materials,
or rolls or cuts of cloth from one department to another or from one section of
department to another. Classified as: Truckers.
Tub cleaner. (See Tub washer.) Classified as: Tub washers.
Tub washer uses hand brush with warm water in large sink to wash color and other
substances from wooden tubs used for color liquors in mixing and printing
rooms. Classified as: Tub washers.
Tube handler is stationed at each end of a continuous steamer. One puts brass
tubes from which cloth is suspended in steamer in proper place so they will drop
into position automatically; the other picks them up as they are discharged
at other end of steamer, and puts them on conveyor which carries them back
to going-in end. Atmosphere around machine is hot and humid and tubes are
hot. Men wear asbestos packs to protect their hands. Classified as:
Other employees.
Turner-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders.
Two-end piier. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers.
Tying-machine operator, cloth, bolts, places each bolt or hand-folded parcel of
cloth on a tying machine where a tape is automatically wrapped around it and
tied to hold cloth in shape folded. See also Bander, cloth, bolts. Classified
as: Other employees.
Typesetter sets type on small press mold used for printing numbers on samples.
See also Printer, tickets. Classified as: Other employees.
Utility man does general work about plant, such as relieving operators, helping
others, etc., working under the direction of foremen or their assistants. Classi­
fied as: Other employees.




APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

71

Varnisher, rollers. (See Roller varnisher.) Classified as: Other employees.
Vat tender, warp dyeing, operates mechanical devices used for dyeing warp yarn;
starts and stops machines, opens and closes valves which supply dye liquids,
water, etc., to vats; watches warp to see that it is running properly through
vats and various squeeze rollers, and if it tangles or end breaks, must stop
machine and call section hand to fix it. When warp is completely run through,
takes it off warp racks and places it on truck and shifts empty warp rollers
to balling apparatus and starts new warp. When warp or chain yarn is
started through, it must be run until finished. Classified as: Other employees
Wagon roller. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
Warehouseman, bale opening, doth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified ass
Openers.
Warp boiler. (See Box tender, warp boiling.) Classified as: Other employees.
Warp coiler. (See Coiler, warp.) Classified as: Other employees.
Warp drier. (See Dry-can man, warp.) Classified as: Other employees.
Warp dyer. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing.) Classified as: Other employees.
Washer bossf working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Washer, brushes. (See Brush washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Washer, color-bag strainer. (See Bag washer, color straining.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Washer, color boxes. (See Color-box washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Washer feeder. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Washer, oil spots. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees.
Washer tender runs washing machine or saturating tank to wet cloth in prepara­
tion for bleaching or to wash out chemicals or other foreign substances after
various processes. Keeps machine threaded with a leader and ties cloth to it
when ready to start. Turns on liquor in machine and draws it off when through.
Has control over starting and stopping and looks after oiling and cleaning of
machine; sees that cloth is running through smoothly and stops machine or
otherwise takes care of the situation if anything goes wrong. Machine con­
sists of a vat or tub to hold liquor with various sets of rollers to draw cloth
through and squeeze out excess liquor. Cloth is guided into and out of liquor
in successive dips and excess liquor is squeezed out between each dip. Classified
as: Washer tenders.
Washer, tubs. (See Tub washer.) Classified as: Tub washers.
Waste collector. (See Rag man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Waste man, bagging. (See Salvager, bagging.) Classified as: Other employees.
Watcher, steamer windows, watches attentively through a glass window in side of
large continuous cloth steamer to see that cloth, folds over rods properly.
One watcher is stationed at going-in end of steamer, to see that rods go in and
cloth folds start correctly. Another is stationed at other end to see that they
come out properly. Each man watches at one end of two steamers. If any­
thing goes wrong, he calls second hand's attention to it. Classified as: Other
employees.
Water boxman, washing. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
Water-mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders.
Waterproofer runs machine which uses waterproofing liquid instead of dye for
impregnating cloth. See also Padding-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders.
Water pumper. (See Pumper, water.) Classified as: Other employees.
Weighman, cloth, piles cuts or rolls of cloth that are to be nailed, packed, or
burlapped, onto scales in various departments, weighs them and calls off weight
and number of yards in each to an adding-machine operator, booker, or record
clerk. Classified as: Other employees.
Weighman, dry drugs. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees.
Wet finisher, cloth. (See Shrinking-machine operator, cloth.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Wetter out. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders.
White-roll man, trucking. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers.
White souring washer, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer
tenders.
White-washer piler. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers.
Winder, boiling off. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers,
cloth winders.




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DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932

Winder, cloth, bolts, winds cloth in flat form in specified length*, 25 to 45 yard?,
as desired by trade. Machine consists principally of two adjustable steel
blades which hold board 6 or 8 inches wide, and as long as cloth is wide, around
which cloth winds. Operator draws end of cloth over two blades of machine
and turns it under one to hold it while starting; throws a lever to start and stop
machine, and when each bolt is complete slides folded cloth off of blades, which
are collapsible. Sometimes a cardboard is placed between two blades so that
cloth is wound on it, though often cloth is wound without board. As cloth comes
from machine it is flat, and these folds are known as “ bolts.” Operator usually
pastes a sticker on cloth showing yardage, which is automatically recorded by
machine. Classified as: Other employees.
Winder, clothj rolls. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers, cloth
winders.
Winder, from skeins. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Winder, from spools. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Winder, skeins. (See Reel winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Winder, yarn. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders.
Window-shade trimmer operates machine which trims edges of window-shade cloth
to specific widths. Classified as: Other employees.
Working boss. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Working foreman performs duties of a supervisory nature in connection with
specific kind of work or in specific department; also does productive work in
connection therewith. Inspects product while in process and may keep special
records of same. Classified as: Other employees.
Wrapper, cloth, wraps certain kinds of cloth goods in paper after it has been
wound into bolts or folded and banded, also ties up package, pastes on outside
a sample of cloth and a sticker, showing style, yardage, lot number, etc. Cloth
is then ready to be packed and shipped. Classified as: Other employees.
Yardage booker. (See Adding-machine operator, cloth room; also Booker, cloth.)
Classified as: Other employees.
Yardage caller calls style and number of yards in each piece of cloth which goes
to make up each bale or box of cloth for shipment. These items are recorded
by an adding-machine operator or booker. Classified as: Other employees.
Yardage-machine operator. (See Measurer.) Classified as: Measurers.
Yarder. (See Measurer.) Classified as: Measurers.
Yarding machine fixer. (See Fixer, general; also Millwright.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Yarn beam dyer. (See Beam dyer, yarn.) Classified as: Other employees.
Yarn boiler-offy skeins. (See Boil-off man, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other
employees.
Yarn dyer, skeins. (See Dyer, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees.
Yarn finisher, skeins. (See Finisher, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees
Yarn mercerizer, skeins. (See Hanger man, yarn mercerizing.) Classified as:
Other employees.
Yarn winder operates any one of various machines used to wind yarn from skeins
onto cones, quills, spools, etc., after mercerizing, dyeing, or other process, when
this work is done in skein form. Operator watches to see that yarn is winding
correctly; removes full cones, quills, or spools; replaces them with empty ones;
supplies full skeins when needed; ties up broken ends and unites these ends
when empty skeins are replaced with full ones, or full spools, cones, etc., are
replaced with empty ones, sometimes using a hand-operated mechanical device
to tie these knots. Classified as: Yarn winders.
Zinc-plate cutter. (See Plate cutter,
employees.
Zinc-plate painter. (See Plate painter.)




cloth

designs.)

Classified as:

Classified as: Other
Other employees.