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UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF LABOR FRANCES PERKINS, Secretary BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS ISADOR LUBIN, Commissioner BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES\ BUREAU OF LABOR ST A T IS TIC S ] WAGES AND HOURS OF . . . . LABOR CQQ lNOs DOO SERIES WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR IN THE DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 JULY 1933 UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE WASHINGTON : 1933 For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D.C, Price 10 cents Contents Page Average days, hours, and earnings, 1930 and 1932, by occupation_______ Average days, hours, and earnings, 1930 and 1932, by sex and State_____ Classified earnings per hour, 1930 and 1932_____________________________ Full-time hours per week and per day, 1930 and 1932___________________ Changes in full-time hours since May 1, 1930___________________________ Changes in wage rates since May 1, 1930_______________________________ Overtime, Sunday, and holiday work, 1932_____________________________ Bonus systems, 1932___________________________________________________ Index numbers of employment and of pay rolls, 1923 to 1932___________ Importance of the industry____________________________________________ Scope and method_____________________________________________________ Occupations----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------General tables_________________________________________________________ T a b l e A.— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full-time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by occu pation, sex, and State___________________________________________ T a b l e B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State_____________________________ T a b l e C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State____________________ T a b l e D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State_______________ T a b l e E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State____________________ A p p e n d ix . — Factory occupational terms, and definitions and classification by Bureau of Labor Statistics— ____________________________________ ni 1 4 5 8 11 11 12 13 16 16 18 19 19 20 29 34 37 42 47 BULLETIN OF THE U.S.BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS n o . 588 WASHINGTON j u l y 1933 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR IN THE DYEING AND FINISH ING OF TEXTILES, 1932 This bulletin presents the results of studies in 1930 and 1932 by the United States Bureau of Labor Statistics of wages and hours of labor of wage earners in the dyeing and finishing of textiles in the United States. The 1930 basic wage figures which were used in compiling this report were collected by agents of the Bureau from the records of 109 representative dyeing and finishing plants in eight States for a pay period in March, April, or May and covered 21,482 wage earners, consisting of 17,739 males and 3,743 females. Figures for 1932 were collected from the records of 93 plants in the same States as in 1930, for a pay period in January, February, or March, and covered 19,246 wage earners, including 16,205 males and 3,041 females. The work of a vast majority of the plants included in the report consisted mainly in the dyeing and finishing of cotton goods. In a few plants cloth made of mixtures of cotton, rayon, and silk was dyed and finished. The 1932 wage figures in the tables of this bulletin cover the wage earners of the dyeing and finishing department of 17 cotton mills that produce, dye, and finish cotton goods and for 76 plants that do nothing but the dyeing and finishing of textiles. Average Days, Hours, and Earnings, 1930 and 1932, by Occupation Table 1 shows for each of the 42 important occupations in the dye ing and finishing of textiles, for a group designated as “ other employ ees” , and for all occupations combined average days, hours, and earn ings in 1 week, average earnings per hour, and the percent of full time worked in the week, in 1930 and in 1932. The group of “ other employees” includes wage earners in occupations each containing too few workers to warrant occupational tabulation. The averages at the end of the table for males and females in all occupations combined, or for the industry as a whole, show that days worked in 1 week were 5.2 in 1930 and 1932; that full-time hours per week increased from 50.9 in 1930 to 51.3 in 1932; that hours actually worked in 1 week increased from 49.3 in 1930 to 49.9 in 1932; that they worked 96.9 percent of full time in 1930 and 97.3 per cent in 1932; that earnings per hour decreased from 45.2 cents in 1 2 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 1930 to 40 cents in 1932; that full-time earnings per week decreased from $23.01 in 1930 to $20.52 in 1932, and that actual earnings in 1 week decreased from $22.29 in 1930 to $19.99 in 1932. Average earnings per hour of males ranged in 1930 in the various occupations from 29 cents for yarn winders to $1,247 for machine engravers, and those of females ranged from 28.1 cents for plaiters to 43.8 cents for batchers. In 1932 the averages of males ranged from 30.3 cents for pilers to $1,021 for hand engravers, and those of females ranged from 24 cents for plaiters to 35.6 cents for measurers. Aver ages of males in 40 and of females in 12 occupations and of males and of females in the group of other occupations were less in 1932 than in 1930, and in 1 occupation for males were more in 1932 than in 1930. T a b le 1.— Average days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked, 1930 and 1982, by occupation and sex Occupation and sex Aver age Num Num days on ber of ber of Year estab wage which lish earners wage earners ments worked in week Ager tenders, male..................... 1930 1932 Back tenders, printing, male___ 1930 1932 Balers, male............................. 1930 1932 Batchers (cloth winders), male.. 1930 1932 Batchers (cloth winders), female. 1930 1932 Bath mixers, male....................... 1930 1932 Calender tenders, male............... 1930 1932 Color mixers, male...................... 1930 1932 Drier tenders, male..................... 1930 1932 Drier tenders, female............. . 1930 1932 Dyeing-machine tenders, male_. 1930 1932 Engravers, hand, male............... 1930 1932 Engravers, machine, male_____ 1930 1932 Floormen, male........................... 1930 1932 Folders, male.............................. 1930 1932 Folders, female............................ 1930 1932 Inspectors, male.......................... 1930 1932 Inspectors, female....................... 1930 1932 Jackmen, printing, male_______ 1930 1932 Kettlemen, color mixing, male__ 1930 1932 Kettlemen's helpers, male_____ 1930 1932 Kier boilers, male................. ...... 1930 1932 Knotters, female......................... 1930 1932 Mangle tenders, male.............. . 1930 1932 Mangle tenders, female............... 1930 1932 23 24 26 27 36 34 41 46 4 2 27 27 72 72 58 39 82 81 3 2 96 80 8 12 14 11 23 49 57 59 29 26 46 50 28 24 19 18 26 22 10 16 54 55 15 24 57 59 3 \ 114 111 374 414 85 78 300 297 34 6 51 52 537 507 224 231 804 627 47 16 1,618 1,393 27 28 37 22 133 366 456 405 247 198 345 337 269 186 70 64 58 52 80 90 154 132 88 118 407 470 11 5 5.5 5.2 5.4 4.8 5.0 5.1 5.3 5.3 4.8 4.2 5.1 5.4 5.2 5.1 5.4 5.2 5.1 5.2 4.9 3.8 4.9 5.1 5.9 5.5 5.8 5.0 5.4 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.1 4.9 5.2 5.4 4.8 5.3 5.6 5.0 5.3 5.1 4.8 4.9 5.4 5.3 4.7 5.3 5.2 5.2 5.1 3.6 Aver age full time hours per week Hours actu Aver ally worked Aver age Aver in week age full age earn time actual earn Aver Per ings earn ings per ings age cent hour in per num of full week week ber time 51.4 51.3 51.3 51.4 51.7 51.4 49.9 50.8 48.3 49.2 50.1 51.9 51.4 52.1 52.1 52.5 51.2 51.6 48.5 48.3 50.6 50.8 49.1 50.6 49.4 51.7 52.3 50.4 51.3 51.7 49.4 51.2 50.1 50.4 51.8 52.2 51.2 51.0 51.8 51.2 49.9 51.3 53.0 53.5 51.0 51.4 51.2 51.6 50.4 49.5 61.3 56.7 56.8 52.9 44.9 46.0 48.3 51.5 38.9 25.7 49.8 53.3 50.7 49.8 55.3 57.6 51.6 53.6 43.8 31.4 48.6 49.7 50.0 50.3 50.7 44.9 54.3 47.8 47.1 49.2 42.5 38.9 47.0 48.0 41.2 44.5 57.5 56.7 56.3 56.5 49.6 50.8 56.9 58.4 41.2 45.4 50.9 51.5 49.9 34.6 119.3 $0.435 $22.36 110.5 .378 19.39 110.7 .466 23.91 102.9 .381 19.58 86.8 .362 18.72 89.5 .331 17.01 96.8 .443 22.11 101.4 .377 19.15 80.5 .438 21.16 52.2 .331 16.29 99.4 .473 23.70 102.7 .394 20.45 98.6 .431 22.15 95.6 .383 19.95 106.1 .489 25.48 109.7 .387 20.32 100.8 .435 22.27 103.9 .375 19.35 90.3 .299 14.50 65.0 .270 13.04 96.0 .465 23.53 97.8 .415 21.08 101.8 1.235 60.64 99.4 1.021 51.66 102.6 1. 247 61.60 86.8 1.004 51.91 103.8 .466 24.37 94.8 .376 18.95 91.8 .587 30.11 95.2 .498 25.75 86.0 .368 18.18 .338 17.31 76.0 93.8 .459 23.00 95.2 .408 20.56 79.5 .295 15.28 85.2 .249 13.00 112.3 .483 24.73 111.2 .395 20.15 .485 25.12 108.7 110.4 .424 21.71 99.4 .475 23.70 99.0 .320 16.42 107.4 .433 22.95 109.2 .391 20.92 .298 15.20 80.8 88.3 .267 13.72 99.4 .424 21.71 99.8 .366 18.89 99.0 .310 15.62 .241 11.93 69.9 $26.67 21.43 26.44 20.15 16.24 15.24 21.41 19.42 17.02 8.50 23.55 20.96 21.81 19.06 27.06 22.28 22.42 20.09 13.10 8.50 22.62 20.61 61.70 51.37 63.18 45.07 25.31 17.99 27.62 24.47 15.62 13.14 21.57 19.60 12.14 11.06 27.75 22.37 27.29 23.96 23.60 16.24 24.66 22.83 12.31 12.12 21.60 18.86 15.45 8.35 3 WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR T a b le 1.— Average days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked, 1930 and 1932, by occupation and sex— Continued Occupation and sex Num ber of Year estab lish ments Num ber of wage earners All employees, male........ 1930 1932 All employees, female...... 1930 1932 46 11 67 17 16 80 8 35 118 35 32 87 152 43 52 144 342 74 69 255 19 181 135 21 259 35 202 44 9 2 6 1 47 14 30 10 313 28 313 26 18 10 26 11 14 40 24 8 149 39 154 39 504 56 360 50 118 47 48 127 192 27 198 28 34 14 24 13 21 68 72 28 126 15 71 13 36 218 160 29 26 3 13 3 69 925 69 970 122 14 75 9 800 56 62 750 55 20 21 34 931 60 660 65 9 68 4 91 13 385 13 344 109 6,621 91 5,935 73 1,884 71 1,679 109 17,739 93 16,205 84 3,743 81 3,041 All employees, both sexes.. 1930 1932 109 21,482 93 19,246 Measurers, male..................... Measurers, female................... Mercerizers, male.................. Openers, male.................... ... Packers, male..................... — Pilers, male..................... ..... Plaiters, male........................ Plaiters, female._................ — Polishers, metal, male........ — Printing-machine tenders, male. Roller turners, male................ Scutcher tenders, male___ ___ Sewers; male.......................... Sewers, female.................... .. Singers, male......................... Soaper tenders, male............... Soap mixers, male................... Sprinkler tenders, male............ Steamer tenders, male............. Swing tenders, male................ Swing tenders, female............. Tenter-frame tenders, male----Tenter-frame tenders, female---Truckers, male...................... Tub washers, male............... . Washer tenders, male.............. Yarn winders, male................ Yarn winders, female.............. Other employees, male........... . Other employees, female. ------ 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 1930 1932 Hours actu Aver age Aver ally worked in week days age on full which time wage hours Aver Per earners per age cent worked week num of full ber time in week 4.7 5.5 5.2 5.3 5.1 5.4 5.1 5.1 5.4 5.6 4.9 5.0 5.0 5.1 5.1 3.8 5.6 5.5 5.4 5.3 5.6 5.1 5.1 5.2 5.6 5.3 4.8 5.4 4.9 5.3 5.4 5.2 5.3 5.5 5.4 5.1 5.1 4.9 5.2 5.0 4.4 4.8 5.3 5.3 5.3 4.9 5.4 5.3 5.5 5.0 4.9 5.2 4.0 3.8 4.2 4.3 5.3 5.3 5.1 5.3 50.8 53.4 50.5 50.8 52.7 52.0 49.6 50.1 51.8 52.0 49.4 51.4 51.1 51.8 50.3 49.5 50.9 49.8 51.5 50.8 50.5 51.7 50.6 51.8 51.2 51.0 51.4 51.4 50.7 51.6 51.2 51.8 51.1 50.6 51.4 52.4 48.8 49.4 50.6 52.0 49.2 53.7 51.0 51.5 50.4 50.5 50.6 51.2 52.9 50.8 51.3 51.4 56.2 56.3 51.9 53.4 51.0 51.3 50.1 50.6 5.2 5.2 5.0 5.2 51.0 51.4 50.5 51.2 43.2 53.1 43.1 46.9 50.2 56.0 47.1 47.6 49.1 51.4 43.1 46.5 46.8 51.1 42.2 34.5 52.9 48.7 54.7 55.2 51.1 44.6 50.9 54.8 54.2 52.2 41.4 46.0 46.4 51.1 58.9 55.0 59.0 57.7 52.7 51.0 52.4 51.4 50.8 51.4 35.5 40.6 51.2 53.3 49.9 43.8 51.5 51.2 56.7 55.3 48.3 51.8 35.5 32.1 39.6 39.3 51.1 50.7 43.1 44.4 50.7 51.1 42.4 43.5 5.2 50.9 49.3 5.2 51.3 49.9 Aver age earn ings per hour Aver age full time earn ings per week Aver age actual earn ings in week 85.0 $0,457 $23.22 $19.73 99.4 .323 17.25 17.14 85.3 .423 21.36 18.22 92.3 .356 18.08 16.69 95.3 .434 22.87 21.79 107.7 .430 22.36 24.07 95.0 .487 24.16 22.94 95.0 .394 19.74 18.77 94.8 .423 21.91 20.77 98.8 .367 19.08 18.86 87.2 .337 16.65 14.49 90.5 .303 15.57 14.10 91.6 .374 19.11 17.51 98.6 .308 15.95 15.71 83.9 .281 14.13 11.88 69.7 .240 11.88 8.28 103.9 .490 24.94 25.91 97.8 .425 21.17 20.71 106.2 1.201 61.85 65.66 108.7 1.019 51.77 56.23 101.2 .570 28.79 29.11 86.3 .398 20.58 17.73 100.6 .409 20.70 20.81 105.8 .304 15.75 16.64 105.9 .389 19.92 21.07 102.4 .332 16.93 17.32 80.5 .312 16.04 12.93 89.5 .277 14.24 12.73 91.5 .415 21.04 19.23 99.0 .366 18.89 18.71 115.0 .410 20.99 24.15 106.2 .350 18.13 19.23 115.5 .429 21.92 25.26 114.0 .403 20.39 23.24 102.5 .379 19.48 20.00 97.3 .338 17.71 17.26 107.4 .438 21.37 22.97 104.0 .345 17.04 17.72 100.4 .373 18.87 18.94 98.8 .336 17.47 17.30 72.2 .310 15.25 11.00 75.6 .275 14.77 11.18 100.4 .435 22.19 22.26 103.5 .385 19.83 20.55 99.0 .353 17.79 17.62 86.7 .319 16.11 13.95 101.8 .405 20.49 20.86 100.0 .344 17.58 17.58 107.2 .404 21.37 22.91 108.9 .355 18.03 19-62 94.2 .447 22.93 21.59 100.8 .378 19.43 19.58 63.2 .290 16.30 10.28 57.0 .346 19.48 11.08 76.3 .350 18.17 13.84 73.6 .262 13.99 10.29 100.2 .475 24.23 24.30 98.8 .441 22.62 22.34 86.0 .336 16.83 14.47 87.7 .298 15.08 13.22 99.4 .473 24.12 23.99 99.4 .418 21.49 21.37 84.0 .335 16.92 14.20 85.0 .291 14.90 12.65 96.9 .452 23.01 22.29 97.3 .400 20.52 19.99 4 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Average Days, Hours, and Earnings, 1930 and 1932, by Sex and State Table 2 shows for all of the males, for all of the females, and for all males and females combined, who were included in the studies of dyeing and finishing of textiles in each State in 1930 and 1932, average days on which they worked and average full-time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and the percent of full time worked in the week. In each State the average earnings per hour of males and of females were less in 1932 than in 1930. Those of males ranged, by States, in 1930 from 32 to 57.2 cents; those of females, from 22.3 to 38.6 cents; and those of males and females combined, from 31 to 55.4 cents. In 1932 the averages of males ranged from 27.8 to 49.7 cents, those of females from 21 to 35.2 cents, and those of both sexes combined from 27 to 47.2 cents. The average hourly earnings of males for all States were 47.3 cents in 1930 and 41.8 cents in 1932; those of females were 33.5 cents in 1930 and 29.1 cents in 1932; and those of males and females combined were 45.2 cents in 1930 and 40 cents in 1932. T a b l e 2 . — Average Sex and State days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked, 1930 and 1932, by sex and State Year Males Connecticut.............. . . Aver age Aver N um N um days age full ber of ber of on time estab which wage hours lish wage earners per ments earners worked week in week Hours actually worked in week Aver age num ber Aver A ver-. Aver age full age age time actual earn Per earn earn ings per cent of hour ings per ings in full week week time 1930 1932 Massachusetts.............. 1930 1932 N ew Jersey................ . 1930 1932 N ew Y ork............... . 1930 1932 North Carolina.......... . 1930 1932 Pennsylvania............... 1930 1932 Rhode Island............... 1930 1932 South Carolina............. 1930 1932 5 5 9 8 16 18 9 10 43 25 12 12 10 10 5 5 724 618 4,064 3,174 5,503 6,298 1,303 1,063 1,784 1,610 923 865 2,568 2,447 870 1,130 5.3 5.3 5.5 5.3 5.1 5.3 5.0 5.1 4.8 5.0 5.1 5.1 5.5 5.2 5.6 5.6 53.5 54.5 48.9 49.0 49.8 50.3 48.9 48.9 55.0 54.4 53.3 52.2 52.5 52.9 55.0 55.2 54.2 54.0 52.7 52.1 48.0 49.8 45.3 45.7 47.1 48.3 51.4 53.4 54.9 50.8 58.6 61.2 101.3 99.1 107.8 106.3 96.4 99.0 92.6 93.5 85.6 88.8 96.4 102.3 104.6 96.0 106.5 110.9 $0.572 .487 .433 .379 .523 .476 .520 .417 .320 .296 .546 .497 .511 .453 .332 .278 $30.60 26.54 21.17 18.57 26.05 23.94 25.43 20.39 17.60 16.10 29.10 25.94 26.83 23.96 18.26 15.35 $30.96 26.32 22.80 19.76 25.09 23.69 23.58 19.07 15.05 14.29 28.09 26.56 28.03 23.03 19.45 17.01 Total................... 1930 1932 109 93 17,739 16,205 5.2 5.2 51.0 51.4 50.7 51.1 99.4 99.4 .473 .418 24.12 21.49 23.99 21.37 Females Connecticut..... ............ 1930 1932 Massachusetts............. 1930 1932 New Jersey................... 1930 1932 N ew Y ork..................... 1930 1932 North Carolina............ 1930 1932 Pennsylvania............... 1930 1932 Rhode Island .............. 1930 1932 South Carolina............. 1930 1932 5 3 8 7 16 18 9 9 20 20 11 9 10 10 5 5 85 81 813 577 1,077 741 218 154 863 797 230 204 359 337 98 150 5.2 5.1 5.3 5.7 5.0 5.2 4.9 4.5 4.5 4.8 4.8 5.0 5.1 5.2 6.1 5.7 53.4 54.1 48.0 48.0 48.6 48.7 48.5 48.7 54.0 54.5 51.7 51.7 52.5 52.9 55.0 55.0 49.7 48.1 41.3 43.2 40.5 40.6 40.6 38.4 42.0 43.7 43.8 44. 6 47.2 44.2 54.4 58.5 93.1 88.9 86.0 90.0 83.3 83.4 83.7 78.9 77.8 80.2 84.7 86.3 89.9 83.6 98.9 106.4 .386 .347 .313 .286 .377 .352 .343 .285 .288 .232 .352 .338 .377 .316 .223 .210 20.61 18.77 15.02 13.73 18.32 17.14 1 6 .^ 13.88 15.55 12.64 18.20 17.47 19.79 16.72 12.27 11.55 19.20 16.67 12.90 12.34 15.27 14.28 13.93 10.95 12.10 10.15 15.42 15.07 17.78 13.99 12.13 12.28 84 81 3,743 3,041 5.0 5.2 50.5 51.2 42.4 43.5 84.0 85.0 .335 .291 16.92 14.90 14.20 12.65 Total................... 1930 1932 5 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR 1 a.ble 2.— Average days, hours, and earnings, and percent of full time worked, 1930 and 1932, by sex and State— Continued Sex and State Year Aver age Aver Num N um days age full ber of ber of on time which estab wage hours lish per earners wage ments earners week w orked in week | Hours actually worked in week Aver age num ber Aver Aver age full A ver age age time actual earn Per earn earn ings per ings per ings in cent of hour week week full time Males and females 1930 1932 Massachusetts............. 1930 1932 New Jersey................... 1930 2932 New Y ork ..................... 1930 1932 North Carolina............ 1930 1932 Pennsylvania............... 1930 1932 Rhode Island............... 1930 1932 South Carolina_______ 1930 1932 5 5 9 8 16 18 9 10 43 25 12 12 10 10 5 5 809 699 4,877 3,751 6,580 6,039 1,521 1, 217 2,647 2,407 1,153 1,069 2,927 2,784 968 1,280 5.3 5.3 5.5 5.3 5.1 5.3 5.0 5.0 4.7 4.9 5.0 5.1 5.4 5.2 5.6 5.6 53.4 54.4 48.8 48.9 49.6 50.1 48.8 48.9 54.7 54.4 53.0 52.1 52.5 52.9 55.0 55.1 53.7 53.3 50.8 50.8 46.8 48.7 44.7 44.8 45.4 46.8 49.9 51.7 53.9 50.0 58.2 60.9 100.6 98.0 104.1 103.9 94.4 97.2 91.6 91.6 83.0 86.0 94.2 99.2 102.7 94.5 105.8 110.5 $0.554 .472 .417 .367 .502 .463 .497 .403 .310 .276 .512 .471 .497 .439 .321 .270 $29.58 25.68 20.35 17.95 24.90 23.20 24.25 19. 71 16.96 15.01 27.14 24.54 26.09 23.22 17.66 14.88 $29.73 25.20 21.15 18.62 23.48 22.53 22.20 18.04 14.09 12.92 25.56 24.37 26.78 21.94 18.71 16.45 1930 1932 109 93 21,482 19, 246 5.2 5.2 50.9 51.3 49.3 49.9 96.9 97.3 .452 .400 23.01 20.52 22.29 19.99 Connecticut.................. Total................... i Classified Earnings per Hour, 1930 and 1932 Average earnings per hour and a percentage distribution by aver age earnings per hour of the wage earners found in 12 representative occupations in the industry in 1930 and 1932 are presented in table 3. The 1932 figures in the table are for males in each of the 12 occu pations and for females in 6 of them, no females being reported in the other 6. The 6,677 males in these occupations are 41 percent of the total number of males included in the study of the industry; the 1,179 females are 39 percent of all females, and both sexes com bined constitute 41 percent of all wage earners in the plants included in this report. In 1930 the 537 calender tenders, male (the first occupation in the table), earned an average of 43.1 cents per hour, 1 percent of them earned less than 25 cents per hour, and 26 percent earned an average of 50 cents or more per hour. The 507 covered in the 1932 study earned an average of 38.3 cents per hour, or 4.8 cents per hour less than the average for 1930; 2 percent earned an average of less than 25 cents per hour, and only 7 percent earned an average of 50 cents or more per hour. T a b l e 3 . — Average O and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1930 and 1932, b y sex Percent of wage earners whose average earnings per hour were— Occupation and sex 12, un der 14 cts. 14, un der 16 cts. 16, un der 18 cts. 20, un der 25 cts. 25, un der 30 cts. 30, un der 35 cts. 35, un der 40 cts. 40, un der 45 cts. 45, un der 50 cts. 0) 1 2 5 15 10 18 18 17 22 22 17 19 22 7 1 8 4 19 5 11 21 19 15 13 74 63 8 18 22 33 30 12 17 4 2 4 4 8 12 8 5 13 9 35 25 19 33 10 7 3 2 1 9 14 5 10 12 4 4 4 17 15 6 11 27 9 5 9 20 13 7 10 8 5 20 20 4 1 21 25 1 4 25 9 1 8 7 34 25 8 9 24 23 8 11 12 16 11 9 22 8 7 25 2 2 30 21 1 28 13 2 5 3 1 3 1 1 9 8 14 15 15 18 21 29 15 11 22 5 4 13 3 2 1 2 1 4 2 3 3 6 5 3 5 14 22 26 19 36 23 33 15 8 27 18 21 12 17 10 15 15 5 2 10 10 2 1 14 3 3 1 2 2 4 7 12 21 32 12 13 25 23 11 17 33 27 10 36 12 4 31 13 7 3 22 5 2 Calender tenders: 537 507 $0.431 .383 1930 1932 J.930 1932 82 81 3 2 804 627 47 16 .435 .375 .299 .270 Female Dyeing-machine tenders: M ale Folders: Male 1930 1932 96 80 1,618 1,393 .465 .415 1930 1932 1930 1932 57 59 29 26 456 405 247 198 .587 .498 .368 .338 Female Inspectors: Male 1930 1932 1930 1932 46 50 28 24 345 337 269 186 .459 .408 .295 .249 Females Mangle tenders: Male Printing-machine tenders: Male - 1930 1932 57 59 407 470 .424 .366 Sewers: Female Tenter-frame tenders: Male Female ___ 1930 1932 28 26 313 313 1.201 1.019 1930 1932 1930 1932 39 39 56 50 149 154 504 360 .389 .332 .312 .277 1930 1932 1930 1932 69 69 14 9 925 970 122 75 .435 .385 .353 .319 0) 0) (0 1 0) 2 4 2 0) 2 0) 10 15 13 1 1 7 0) 0) 0) 0) (0 3 0) 0) 6 12 3 1 80, 90 un ct.s., der un der 90 cts. $1 $1, $1.10, $1.25, $1.50 un and un un der over der der $1.10 $1.25 $1.50 0) <9 1 0) 0) 4 1 1 3 5 2 0) 0) 0) 2 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 3 9 8 7 8 6 13 34 39 16 15 4 OF TEXTILES, 1932 72 72 70, un der 80 cts. FINISHING 1930 1932 Drier tenders: 50, 60, un un der der 60 70 cts. cts. AND 18, un der 20 cts. DYEING N um N um Aver ber of ber of age Year estab wage earn Un lish earn ings per der 12 hour ments ers cts. Trackers: M a l e . . _____________________ 1930 1932 Washer tenders: M a l e . . ______ _____—. . . . _— 1930 1932 Y a m winders: M ale............................................ 1930 1932 Female______________________ 1930 1932 56 62 800 750 .405 .344 60 65 931 660 .447 .378 9 4 13 13 68 91 385 344 .290 .346 .350 .262 (l) 0) 11 18 20 11 5 4 13 43 22 7 21 18 4 13 24 17 26 12 1 21 18 26 17 2 3 7 16 13 31 27 4 1 1 13 27 11 12 2 4 4 19 10 12 1 ---(9 l ........ 1 Less than 1 percent. WAGES AND HOTIBS OF LABOR 8 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Table 4 shows the number and percent of wage earners of each sex and of both sexes combined at each classified group of average earn ings per hour. Each wage earner covered in the study in 1932 is grouped according to the average amount earned per hour. T able 4,— Number and 'percent of wage earners earning each classified amount per hour, 1932, by sex Number Percent Classified earnings Males Females 1 1 4 6 6 7 5 13 20 111 51 131 58 188 102 85 198 89 294 346 414 194 183 146 111 74 70 45 32 19 11 6 8 8 4 Total 1 1 4 6 6 7 7 27 35 155 67 229 83 415 225 392 393 280 1,369 1,291 1,531 1,002 1,430 1,066 1,820 1,902 1,716 742 1,128 543 377 255 180 100 61 42 23 30 44 69 84 68 24 13 3 3 and under 4 cents ., ...... 7 and iindfir 8 cents... _ _ ...... 9 and under 10 cents_____________________ 10 nndftr 11 r»flnt.s _ _ _ 11 and Iindfir 12 cents _ _ r _ _ ___ 12 and iindfir 13 cents _. _ 13 and under 14 cents............._................... . 14 and under 15 cents....... ............ ................. 15 and under 16 cents..................................... 16 and under 17 cents................................. . 17 and under 18 cents— ........................ ....... 18 and under 19 cen ts.................................. 19 and under 20 cents....................... .............. 20 and under 21 cents................................. . 21 and under 22 cents...................................... 22 and under 23 cents....... ............ ............. . 23 and under 24 cents..................................... 24 and under 25 cents....................... ......... . 25 and under 27H cents__________ _______ 27K and under 30 cen ts......................... ....... 30 and under 32^ cents----------------------------32K and under 35 cen ts................................ 35 and under 37H cents............................. . 37K and under 40 cents------------------ ---------40 and under 42^ cents__________________ 423^ and under 45 cents__________________ 45 and under 47J^ cents--------------------- ------47H and under 50 cents_________ ________ 50 and under 55 cents____________________ 55 and under 60 cents______________ _____ 60 and under 65 cents..................................... 65 and under 70 cents................... ... .............. 70 and under 75 cents..................... ............... 75 and under 80 cents....................... ............. 80 and under 85 cents......................... .......... . 85 and under 90 cents____________________ 90 and under 95 cents_____________________ 95 cents and under $1____________________ $1 and under $1.10_________ ____ ______ __ $1.10 and under $1.20........ ............................. $1.20 and under $1.30............... ................. ..... $1.30 and under $1.40...... ................................ $1.40 and under $1.50_____________________ $1.50 and under $1.60________ ________ ___ $1.60 and under $1.70______ _____ ________ 2 14 15 44 16 98 25 227 123 307 195 191 1,075 945 1,117 808 1,247 920 1,709 1,828 1,646 697 1,096 524 366 249 172 92 57 42 23 30 44 69 84 68 24 13 3 Total....................................................... 16,205 3,041 19,246 Average earnings per hour_______________ $0,418 $0,291 $0,400 Males 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) Total 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) (0 0) 0) (l) 0) 0) 0) 0) (0 (l) (l) 0) 1 1 1 2 1 1 7 6 7 5 8 6 11 11 10 4 7 3 2 2 1 1 (|) M n) M (0 Females 1 4 2 4 2 6 3 3 7 3 10 11 14 6 6 5 4 2 2 1 1 1 (l) (!) (0 0) 0) (1) 0) (l) (0 (1) 0) 1 0) 0) 0) 0) 100 1 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 100 1 (0 2 1 2 2 1 7 7 8 5 7 6 9 10 9 4 6 3 2 1 1 1 100 i Less than 1 percent. Full-Time Hours per Week and per Day, 1930 and 1932 The full-time hours per week and per day of a wage earner are the hours established for him by a regular time of beginning and quitting work each day less his regular time off duty for meals. Such hours do not include any overtime nor extra work on Sunday and holidays, nor are they reduced by the exclusion of any regular time lost by slack or short-time work, sickness, or other disability, or for any other cause. Table 5 shows average full-time hours per week and a percentage distribution by full-time hours per week of the wage earners in each of 12 representative occupations in the industry in 1930 and 1932. 9 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR In compiling this table for each occupation the full-time hours of each wage earner found in the occupation was used, even though the wage earner actually worked more or less than his regular full time. T a b le 5.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 tions, 1930 and 1932, by occupation and sex N um Num ber ber of of Occupation and sex Year estab wage lish earn ments ers Calender tenders: M ale— ............ Drier tenders: M ale......... . Female.. D y e in g -m a c h in e tenders: M ale................... Folders: M a leFemale.. Inspectors: Male___ Fem ale.. Mangle tenders: Male.............. Fem ale.. P rin tin g -m a ch in e tenders: Male.................... Sewers: M a leFemale.. 1930 1932 537 507 51.4 52.1 1930 1932 1932 804 627 47 16 51.2 51.6 48.5 48.3 1930 1932 1,618 1,393 50.6 50.8 1930 1932 1930 1932 456 405 247 198 51.3 51.7 49.4 51.2 1930 1932 1930 1932 345 337 269 186 50.1 50.4 51.8 52.2 1930 1932 1930 1932 407 470 5 51.2 51.6 50.4 49.5 1930 1932 313 313 51.5 50.8 1930 149 154 504 51.2 51.0 51.4 51.4 1932 1930 925 970 122 75 51.0 51.5 50.4 50.5 1930 1932 800 750 50.6 51.2 1930 1932 931 660 51.3 51.4 91 385 344 56.2 56.3 51.9 53.4 1930 1932 Tenter-frame tend ers: M ale.................. Female.. Truckers: M ale— Washer tenders: M ale.............. Yarn winders: M ale........... Fem ale- Aver age full time hours per week 1930 1932 1930 1932 11 occupa- Percent of wage earners whose full-time hours per week were— Un der 48 48 Over 48, un der 50 50 Over 50, un der 54 54 55 36 Over 55, un der 60 Over 60 0) 0) 0) 0) 33 v-‘M <••‘1 47 59 1 Less than 1 percent. The full-time hours per day, Monday to Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, and per week, in table 6, are the regular hours of operation for daywork in each of the 93 plants included in the 1932 study of the industry and for nightwork in 22 of the 93 plants in which th&erwere both day and night shifts. 10 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 19S2 Full-time hours per week for daywork in the 93 plants ranged from 42% in 2 plants to 60 in 4 plants, and for nightwork in the 22 plants that had both day and night shifts, ranged from 48 in 1 plant to 70 in 2 plants. In a majority of the plants in which there were day and night shifts, the night force was less than the day force and was limited to certain departments. The 5-day week, with no work on Saturday, was in effect in 27 of the 93 plants in which there was daywork, and in 20 of the 22 in which there was nightwork. The hours of 1 plant in which there was nightwork were 12 per night, Monday to Thursday, with no work on Friday and Saturday or 48 per week and of 1 were 10 per night, Mon day to Saturday, or 60 per week. Hours for daywork, Monday to Friday ranged from 8K to 12, and for nightwork, from 10 to 14. On Saturday hours for daywork ranged from 3 to 5%. T a b l e 6 .— Classification of establishments in each State by full-time hours per weeh and per day, for daywork and for nightwork, 1932 DAYW ORK Full-time tou rs per day Number of establishments in— & Full-time hours per week is a § * > I m 42H45— 47H48__ 9 8H m m m m m 9 48%49H. 49%50— 9 9 9 10 50H. 52H- m m 10H m m m 9% 64.. 8H 9 9^ m 8H 8H 65.. 9 9 9 9 10 m m m m m m 10 9 10 11 60.. 11 12 'd § I & 0 0 0 m 4K 3 1 2 0 0 1 1 1 4H m 5 0 4 10 1 1 m 5 0 2 m m m 2 0 25 7 3 1 1 1 5 1 5 4 5 5 5 1 0 18 T otal. 10 25 10 93 1 1 2 1 3 1 7 1 3 1 2 1 22 N IG H T W O R K 48................................... 60................................... 54................................... 55................................... 60................................... 62H ............................... 65................................... 67H ............................... 70................................... T otal.................. 12 10 11 11 10 12 12H 13 13H 14 0 10 10 11 10 12 12H 13 13H 14 0 0 0 0 10 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 3 1 2 1 1 1 3 1 1 3 9 1 4 1 i Includes 1 establishment in which hours of females were 49 H per week—9 on M onday to Friday and iH on Saturday. 11 WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR Changes in Full-Time Hours Since May 1, 1930 Only 6 of the 93 plants included in the 1932 study of the industry reported changes in regular full-time hours per week since May 1, 1930. Table 7 shows the hours per week and per day before and after the change for each of the six plants. T a b l e 7 . — Hours per week and per day of establishments before and after change between May 1, 1930, and period of 1932 study Hours before change 1 A ll............................................................................. 1 ___ d o________________________________________ 1 1 ____ d o _______________________________________ 1 ____ d o................... ........................................... ....... 1 Ageing, calender, napping, starching and tentering, cotton dyeing, soaping, cloth, and bleaching departments, and males in shear and singe departments_____________________ Females in shear and singe department______ Repair department__________________________ Per week M on day to Friday Satur day Per week M on day to Friday Satur day 40 55 55 47H 48 i Wage earners affected b y change Hours after change 8 10 10 m m 0 5 5 0 4H 50 50 55 45 54 10 10 11 9 10 0 0 0 0 4 48 48 48 yo oo oo Num ber of estab lish ments m 4H 4H 50 45 54 10 9 9 0 0 9 Changes in Wage Rates Since May 1, 1930 Changes in wages between May 1, 1930, and the period of the 1932 study were reported by 81 of the 93 plants for which figures are given in this report. All changes were decreases. Table 8 shows the wage earners affected by the change, the percent of decrease in rates, and the year in which each change was made. The table shows that the rates of all or a specified part of the wage earners in 64 plants were reduced once only between May 1, 1930, and the period of the 1932 study, and in 13 plants were reduced twice; and that the rates of all wage earners in 4 plants were reduced three times (5, 5, and 5 percent) during the period. The decreases ranged, by plants, from 5 percent to 12% and 10 percent. 12 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 T a b l e 8 . — Changes N um ber of estab lish ments in wage rates in 81 establishments between May 1, 1980, and the period of the 1982 study Wage earners affected b y the change AIL. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. Those at weekly rates____ _________ Those at 50 cents or more per hour.. All.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. .d o.. -d o Winders....................................... ............. A l l - ............. - .......... — ____ _________ Those at more than 40 cents per hour.. Those at more than 36 cents per hour.. Overseers........................ ......................... Part only but not specified.................... All.. Those at less than 35 cents per hour........... Those at 35 to 45 cents per hour........ .......... Those at more than 45 cents and those at piece rates. A ll..................................................................... Percent of decrease and year in which change was made 15 in 1931. 13^ in 1931. 12y2 in 1 plant in 1931 and 1 in 1932. 12 in 1930. 10 in 1 plant in 1930, in 32 plants in 1931, and in 15 in 1932. 8 in 1931. 7V2 in 1932. 5 in 2 plants in 1931 and in 1 in 1932. 10 in 1931. 10 in 1931. 12M in 1930 and 10 in 1931. 123^ and 10 in 1931. 10 in 1930 and 10 in 1931. 10 in 1931 and 10 in 1932. 10 in 1931 and various individual cuts in 1932. 10 in 1931 and 8 in 1932. 10 and 8 in 1931. lYi in 1930 and 7V2 in 1932. 10 and 5y2 in 1931. 11 in 1931. 10 in 1932. 10 in 1931. 10 in 1932. 10 in 1931. Various individual cuts in 1932. 5 and 5 in 1931 and 5 in 1932. 5 in 1931. 7V2 in 1931. 10 in 1931. 5 in 1931. Overtime, Sunday, and Holiday Work, 1932 Overtime is any time worked in excess of the regular full time per day or per week, regardless of the rate paid for such work. Work on Sunday and holidays is extra work only when the working schedule does not provide for work on those days. Work on Saturday in a plant in which the 5-day week, Monday to Friday, is in effect is overtime. In reply to inquiries concerning overtime and extra work on Sunday and holidays 88 of the 93 plants reported a small amount of overtime as having been worked during the pay period covered by the 1932 study and 27 reported extra work on Sunday and holidays. Only 23 of the 88 plants in which there was overtime and 26 of the 27 in which there was extra work on Sunday and holidays paid a higher rate for such work than for regular working time. Four of the plants that were on the 5-day week basis had a limited amount of overtime and paid a higher rate for it than for regular working time. The same rate was paid for overtime in 65 plants, and for extra work on Sunday and holidays in 1 plant, as for regular working time. Table 9 shows the number of plants in which there was provision for the payment of a higher rate for overtime and for work on Sunday and holidays, the wage earners who were entitled to the extra rate for such work, and the number of times the regular rate paid for such work. 13 WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR T a b l e 9 . — Higher rate of pay for overtime, and extra work on Sunday and holidays, and wage earners entitled, 1932 Times regular rate for each hour of— N um ber of estab lish ments 9 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 Wage earners entitled Over time A ll............................................................................... ....................................... ........do............................................................................................. ........ — ........ ____ do......... ............... ........... ............................................................................. ____ do_________ ___ _____ _ ____ _____ __________________ ____ do_________ ___ ______ _ _ ____ . _______________________ ____ do_________ ___________ ___________ __________________________ ____ do________________________________ ______________________________ fAll except printers____________________________________________________ 1Printers______________________________________________________________ ____ do___________ _______ ________ ___________________ _____ ______ ___ Printers and engravers and their apprentices, and those in the repair department______________________ _________ ________________________ Those in the maintenance department________________________________ Those at time rates................................ .......... .......... ......... ............. .............. Printers, colorists, color mixers, and color-mixing kettlemen at less than $1 per hour____________________________ ____ __________________ A ll except night kier boilers_________________ ________________________ Printers, hand and machine engravers, die makers, etchers, pantograph setters, sketch makers, and their apprentices _______________________ 1 Saturday afternoon. 114 V4 l'H 1M Extra work on Sun day and holi days Over time on Satur days m 2 IK 1X 2 m 1M iy 2 m 1M 1H 1H m m iy 2 iiH 1M (2) m V/z 1M 2 m 2 $1 per hour for overtime. Bonus Systems, 1932 A bonus is compensation in addition to earnings at time or piece rates. Twenty-six of the 93 plants included in the 1932 study of the industry reported bonus systems in operation. The basis of the bonus, the wage earners entitled to bonus payments, and the amount of and conditions necessary to get the bonus are shown for each plant in table 10. The basis of the bonus in 16 plants was production; in 2 production and attendance; in 1 production and time saving; in 4 time saving; in 1 efficiency; in 1 attendance; and in 1 service and attendance. T a b le 1 0 . — Bonus N um ber of Bonus based estab on— lish ments 1 systems in operation in 26 establishments in 1932 Wage earners entitled to bonus Bonus earned when— P roduction. Printers, color boys, color mixers, gray tenders, and back tenders. Production b y group is over 25,000 yards in 10 hours. All in dyehouse except ele vator man. Production is more than the set standard for a specified unit of time. 1 ........do........... 177409°—3 3 - - 2 Amount of bonus 10 percent of earnings at basic rates when produc tion in 10 hours is 25,001 to 29,999 yards and 15 percent when it is 30,000 yards or more. % of all production over set standard at basic wage rates. 14 DYEING AND FINISHING OP TEXTILES, 1932 T a b le 10.— Bonus systems in operation in 26 establishments in 1982— Continued N um ber of based estab Bonus on— lish ments Production. Wage earners entitled to bonus Doubling-machine ators. oper ........d o........... Markers, wrappers, fold ers, and hooker and doubling-machine oper ators. Stringers............................... .. .d o .. Markers, sewers, inspec ........d o tors, folders, wrappers, and hooker and dou bling-machine operators. ........do______ Pressmen, folders, male, and hooker and dou bling-machine operators. — do___ Openers, sewers and hook er-machine operators. Sewers and singers and ........do___ those in bleaching, age ing, steaming, merceriz ing, folding, back gray, dyehouse and finishing departments. Those in bleaching, dye ........do____ ing, mercerizing, singe ing, packing, and un winding departments. ........do.. Openers................................ ------do.. Folders. Bonus earned when— Production is more than the set standard for a specified unit of time. ___ d o.................................. Doublers and batchers.. Truckers......................... Assistant foremen.. Starch mixers................ Mangle-room truckers.. Waste washers............... ........d o .......... Hookers— Stitchers. Packers... Folders................................ ___ do........... Yarders, folders, and tack ers. Sewers............................. A fixed amount for each unit of production over set standard. D o. .d o.. .d o.. Do. Do. .d o.. Do. _do_. D o. ..do.. Do. .do.. Layout is over 60,000 yards per day. Average yards folded in specified unit of time is over 34,000 per day of hours. —d o........... Yarders and hookers or Over 25,000 yards are handled in a day. folders. Tackers............................... . ____do.................................. ........do........... Starch manglers............. Amount of bonus Over 325 pieces are handled in a day. Over 41,000 yards are handled in a day. Over 110,000 yards are transferred to hook in a day. All machine operators earn a bonus. .do. .d o.. Over 16 bales are washed in a day. Over 25,000 yards are handled in a day. Over 22,000 yards are handled in a day. Over 150,000 yards are handled in a day. Over 22,000 yards are handled in a day. Over 25,000 yards are handled in a day. 900 seams or more are made in a day. Winders . 40,000 yards or more are wound in a day. Balers.. 40 bales or more are made in a day. H of all production over set standard at basic wage rates. 4 cents per each 1,000 yards over 60,000 per day. 3 cents per hour when aver age is 34,000 to 38,000 yards per day and 6 cents per hour when average is over 38,000 yards per day. 10 cents for each 1,000 yards over 25,000 per day. 5 cents for each 1,000 yards over 25,000 per day. 1 cent for each piece over 325 pieces per day. 4H cents for each 1,000 yards over 41,000 per day. Ho cent for each 1,000 yards over 110,000 yards daily. 13H cents for each machine. 9 cents for each machine. 4H cents for each machine. 10 cents for each bale over 16 per day. 4f i cents for each 1,000 yards over 25,000 per day. 3H cents for each 1,000 yards over 22,000 per day. 8Moo cent for each 1,000 yards over 150,000 per day. 6H cents for each 1,000 yards over 22,000 per day. 8 cents for each 1,000 yards over 25,000 per day. 35 cents per day for 900 seams and 10 cents addi tional for each 100 over 900 per day. 40 cents per day for 40,000 yards and 4 cents addi tional for each 1,000 yards over 40,000 per day. 20 cents per day for 40 bales and 2 cents additional for each bale over 40 per day. 15 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR T a b l e 1 0 . — Bonus N um ber of based estab Bonus on— lish ments Production and at tendance. ____d o_____ systems in operation in 26 establishments in 1982— C ontinued Wage earners entitled to bonus Bonus earned when— Amount of bonus All with little or no lost time in a pay period. Production is more than set standard for speci fied unit of time. Machine averages in a week, 1,300 yards per hour. All production over set standard at basic rates. Printing-machine tenders, colorists, and second hands. Wrappers, doublers, batch er ticketers, and stamp ers. E fficien cy... All except overseer............. Over 325 pieces are han dled in a day. Defects are found in work of others. Printers----------- --------------- Full or part of a day is worked. Those in white winding, Task is completed in time allotted or less. dyehouse, dry can, ani line color, printing, en graving, tenter frame, starch, calender, print box, make-up, color, calender, and shade de partments or shops. ____ do........... Gray, singe, mercerize, Set task is completed in white winding, print less than time allotted. ing, tenter-frame, calen der, make-up, packing, machinists, storehouse, steam and soap, dyehouse, plant trucking, elevators, color, and bleach departments. ..do.. ..do........... Gray, mercerize, printing, tenter-frame, calender, folding, packing, me chanics, storehouse, bleaching, and dyehouse departments. —do........... Gray? singe, mercerizing, .d o.. white winding, print ing, calender and silk finish, starch, frame, packing and loose stock, folding, machinists, store house, steam and soap, dyehouse and engrav ing departments. Service and A ll........................................ In service 1 or more years attend and no time lost in week. ance. Attendance. Tim e ing. sav Production.. Openers.. Sewers... Tim e ing. sav Jig dyers, starch mangle tenders, and starch boil ers. Pad dyers, winding-ma chine operators, back ers, bundlers, stampers, paperers, and yard-ma chine operators. Folders.............................. Lay-out is more than 1,600 pieces per day. Completed more than 5,000 yards per hour. Task is completed in less than time allotted. $5 per week to each one in crew who worked full time, and $2.50 per week to any who worked part time. 1 cent for each piece over 325 per day. 5 or 10 percent of earnings at basic rates of pay as determined b y overseer. $1 for each full or part day. 20 percent of earnings at basic wage rates for fin ishing task in time allot ted or less, and also 60 percent of time saved at basic wage rates for fin ishing task in less than time allotted. Specified percent of time saved at basic wage rates. Do. Do. 50 cents per week each to those in service 1 and under 3 years; $1 per week to those in service 3 and under 5 years; and $1.50 per week to those in service 5 years or more. 14 cents for each 100 pieces over 1,500 per day. 10 cents for each 1,000 yards over 5,000 per hour. H of time saved at basic wage rates. -do.. .d o.. H of time saved plus 5 per cent of time worked at basic wage rates. 16 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Index Numbers of Employment and of Pay Rolls, 1923 to 1932 Index numbers of employment and of pay rolls in the dyeing and finishing of textiles industry are presented in table 11 for each month from January 1923 to December 1932, inclusive. These index numbers were computed from the volume of employment and the amounts of pay rolls for each month and year, with the 1926 average as the base or 100. The index numbers are as published by the bureau in monthly reports on Trend of Employment in the United States. During the period covered by the table employment was highest at 106.1 in April 1923 and lowest at 64.1 in July 1932. Pay rolls were highest at 110 in March 1925 and February 1929 and lowest at 37.8 in July 1932. T able 11.— Index numbers of employment and of pay rolls, January, 1928, to December 1932, by month and year [Average for 1926=100] Employment Month 1923 1924 1925 1926 1927 1928 January....................- ................................ . 105.9 92.3 February------------------------------- ------------- - 104.6 97.7 M arch....................... .................... ........... . 105.5 96.8 106.1 96.0 M a y . ............ ............................................... 104.8 93.0 June-------------------------------------------- -------- 100.7 90.3 July________ ___________________ _____ _ 101.0 88.7 August--------------------------------- ------- -------- 95.1 86.4 September----------------- ------------------------- 96.6 92.3 O c to b e r_______________________________ 101.2 96.1 N ovem ber........................ ........................... 101.0 98.0 December.................. ................................... 103.0 100.7 102.0 104.0 105.0 105.2 102.8 97.7 98.1 97.2 99.0 102.9 103.4 103.0 103.6 103.6 103.8 101.8 99.4 98.0 93.8 96.2 98.1 99.7 100.9 100.8 100.3 101.5 102.1 102.2 100.4 99.3 97.3 98.6 100.4 102.2 103.2 102.9 102.0 103.3 102.2 99.8 98.5 96.5 94.8 95.5 96.6 99.4 101.9 103.3 Average............................................... 102.1 94.0 101.7 100.0 100.9 1929 1932 1930 1931 102.0 99.3 104.7 100.4 105.2 99.8 104.3 98.0 103.1 94.8 101.6 90.4 99.4 84.2 98.0 86.6 100.8 85.5 102.4 91.4 100.8 92.8 99.0 93.1 92.9 95.5 95.4 93.5 91.2 86.0 82.7 84.1 86.0 82.9 82.5 83.0 83.0 86.2 85.8 80.7 74.9 71.5 64.1 68.1 77.8 77.9 78.1 78.0 93.0 88.0 77.2 1930 1931 104.2 95.5 110.0 99.2 109.8 100.6 107.4 96.3 106.5 90.4 100.8 80.0 96.1 72.8 97.4 76.4 100.0 79.9 103.5 86.9 96.5 88.1 94.4 88.1 85.9 96.2 94.5 90.6 84.7 76.2 73.7 77.4 76.6 70.9 70.4 71.5 70.0 75.4 72.4 59.7 49.4 49.5 37.8 47.3 60.0 57.6 54.0 53.3 80.7 57.2 99.5 101.8 Pay-roll totals M onth 1923 January— ................................................... February.................................................... . M arch........................ ................................... April................................... .......................... M a y .................................... .......................... June............................................................... July......................................................- ........ A u gu st.......................................................... September...................................... .............. October............................. ........................... N ovem ber..................................................... December........................... .......................... 1924 1925 1926 1927 1928 101.3 91.2 101.8 98.0 103.7 94.2 104.5 93.0 108.6 88.8 100.2 83.2 96.1 79.7 87.5 82.5 93.0 92.3 100.0 96.3 98.3 96.6 103.8 105.9 105.9 107.8 110.0 105.4 102.2 94.3 94.1 93.9 94.5 107.8 105.4 106.3 104.5 106.5 106.3 102.5 97.8 94.1 89.0 93.1 98.0 102.7 102.2 102.8 101.5 106.3 107.0 105.7 101.2 99.6 94.9 98.5 103.2 106.2 104.2 105.3 100.6 105.6 105.7 100.5 100.2 95.6 91.6 94.1 97.3 104.0 106.7 109.7 Average............................................. . 99.9 1929 91.8 102.3 100.0 102.8 101.0 102.2 87.9 1932 Importance of the Industry Table 12 shows, for the industry, the number of establishments, average number of wage earners, the amount paid in wages, the cost of materials, the value of products, and the value added by manu facture, as published by the United States Census of Manufactures. The figures are for the United States as a whole for each of the specified years from 1899 to 1929, and in 1929 for each of the 8 States included m the 1932 study. 17 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR From the census figures the average per wage earner of each item was computed by the Bureau of Labor Statistics, as was the percent that amount of wages was of the value added by manufacture. Average annual wages per wage earner were $1,188 in 1929 and ranged by years from $427 in 1899 to $1,242 in 1927. By States averages in 1929 ranged from $826 to $1,299. Wages formed 41 percent of value added by manufacture in 1929 and ranged, by years, from 38 percent in 1919 to 50 percent in 1904; in 1929 the percent ranged by States from 29 to 45. T a b l e 1 2 . — Number of establishments, average number of wage earners, amount of wages, cost of materials, value of products, and value added by manufacture, IS99 to 1929 by year and 1929 by State From United States Census of Manufactures State and year United States: 1899................. 1904-............... 1909................. 1914................. 1919................. 1921................. 1923............. . 1925................. 1927................. 1929-........... N um ber of estab lish ments Average number of wage earners 360 426 507 628 743 732 Amount paid in Cost of materials Value of products 29,776 35, 565 44,046 48,467 55,985 51, 510 63,414 70,749 73,851 79,327 $12,726,316 15,469,205 21,226,924 24,872,318 57,189,978 58,138,729 72,524,711 83,983,377 91,697,219 94,244,685 $17,958,137 19,621,253 35,261,301 56,705,135 174,742,815 141,198,956 199,156,387 220,678,181 210,680,900 235,712,156 $44,963,331 50,849, 545 83,556,432 109,291,536 323,967,683 276,750,670 366,623,213 408,515,484 406,047,372 465,820, 629 $27,005,194 31,228,292 48,295,131 52,586,401 149,224,868 135,551,714 167,466,826 187,837,303 195.366.472 230.108.473 2,309 14,450 23,097 6,561 2,363 8,858 9,242 1,939 10,508 2,801,222 16,853,664 29,943,872 8,346,446 1,952,693 11, 504,787 11,306,286 1,690,178 9,845, 537 4,991,570 53,034,427 47,184,154 14,296,162 10,822,594 44,617,951 22,816,892 2,648,133 35,300,273 12,440, 511 93,148,770 113,558,338 33,257,902 16,079,262 73,958,467 51,394,741 8, 555,189 63,427,449 7,448,941 40,114,343 66,374,184 18,961,740 5,256,668 29,340,516 28,577,849 5,907,056 28,127,176 Value added b y manufac ture 1929 Connecticut------Massachusetts - - New Jersey.......... New Y ork ______ North Carolina - Pennsylvania___ Rhode Island-----South C a r o lin a Other States........ 21 67 167 157 18 133 62 11 96 Computed b y United States Bureau of Labor Statistics Average per wage earner of— State and year Average annual wages Cost of materials Value of products Percent Value added wages are of value b y manu added facture United States: 1899.......................................................... 1904.......................................................... 1909.......................................................... 1914........................................................... 1919.......................................................... 1921.......................................................... 1923..................................... .................... 1925.......................................................... 1927.......................................................... 1929.......................................................... $427 435 482 513 1,022 1,129 1,144 1,187 1,242 1,188 $603 552 801 1,170 3,121 2,741 3,141 3,119 2,853 2,971 $1,510 1,430 1,897 2,255 5,787 5,373 5,781 5,774 5,498 5,872 $907 878 1,096 1,085 2,665 2,632 2,641 2,655 2,645 2,901 47 50 44 47 38 43 43 45 47 41 1929 Connecticut................................................... M assachusetts-............................................ New Jersey.................................................... New York....... ................. .................... — North Carolina-.................. ................. ....... Pennsylvania-........................................— Rhode Island_____ ______ ____ - ............ — South Carolina............................................. Other States.................................................. 1,213 1,166 1,296 1,272 826 1,299 1,223 872 937 2,162 3,670 2,043 2,179 4,580 5,037 2,469 1,366 3,359 5,388 6,446 4,917 5,069 6,805 8,349 5,561 4,412 6,036 3,226 2,776 2,874 2,890 2,225 3, 312 3,092 3,046 2,677 38 42 45 44 37 39 40 29 35 18 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Scope and Method This bulletin presents 1932 wage figures for 19,246 wage earners of 93 representative plants that were engaged in dyeing and finishing textiles, mostly cotton goods, in Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, and South Carolina. In some plants the goods included rayon and silk mixtures. These States, according to the 1929 Census of Manufac tures, are the most important in the industry in number of wage earners. Together they include 87 percent of the total number of wage earners in the industry in the United States. The number for which wage figures are shown for 1932 is 24 percent of the total in all the States. Data for executives and office and clerical workers were not used in compiling the report. Data for each of the plants with a pay period of more than 1 week were reduced to a 1-week basis. A majority of the plants covered in the 1932 study had weekly pay periods. Average days worked in 1 week were computed by dividing the total days on which all wage earners in an occupation worked in 1 week by the total number of wage earners in the occupation in the week. In computing the average, each day or part of a day on which a wage earner did any work was counted a day. Average full-time hours per week for the wage earners in each occupation were computed by dividing the aggregate full-time hours of all wage earners in the occupation by the number in the occupation. The full-time hours of each wage earner were used in obtaining this average, even though part of them may have worked more or less than full time. Average hours actually worked in 1 week were computed by dividing the aggregate hours actually worked in 1 week by all wage earners in an occupation by the number of wage earners in the occupation in the week. Average earnings per hour in each occupation were computed by dividing the aggregate earnings of all wage earners in the occupation by the aggregate number of hours worked by them during the week. Average full-time earnings per week were computed by multiplying the average earnings per hour of the wage earners in an occupation by their full-time hours per week. This shows what the earnings would have been had all wage earners in the occupation worked full time, no more, no less, and at the same average earnings per hour as for the time that was actually worked in 1 week. Average actual earnings per week were computed by dividing the aggregate earnings in 1 week of all wage earners in an occupation by the number of wage earners in the occupation. Table 13 shows by States the number of wage earners in the in dustry in 1929 as reported by the United States Census of Manufac tures, the number of establishments from which the Bureau of Labor Statistics obtained data in 1932, and the number of wage earners included in the 1932 study. 19 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR T a b l e 1 3 . — Number of wage earners in dyeing and finishing textiles in 1929, and number of establishments and wage earners for which 1932 data are shown, by States Wage earn ers reported b y United States Cen sus in 1929 State Number of establish ments and wage earn ers for which data are shown b y the Bureau of Labor Statistics for 1932 Establish ments Wage earn ers Connecticut__________________________________________________ Massachusetts________________________________________________ New J e r s e y ..________________________________________________ New Y ork ____________________________________________________ North Carolina_______________________________________________ Pennsylvania__________________________________________ ____ Rhode Island_________________________________________________ South Carolina_______________________________________________ Other States__________________________________________________ 2,309 14,450 23,097 6,561 2,363 8,858 9,242 1,939 10,508 5 8 18 10 25 12 10 5 699 3,751 6,039 1,217 2,407 1,069 2,784 1,280 Total___ ________________ _________ ________ ____ _______ 79,327 93 19,246 Occupations Wages and hours of labor are presented in this bulletin for each of the occupations below and also for the miscellaneous group desig nated as “ Other employees. ” Each occupation found in the industry is defined in the Appendix (p. 47). Ager tenders. Back tenders, printing. Balers. Batchers (cloth winders). Bath mixers. Calender tenders. Color mixers. Drier tenders. Dyeing-machine tenders. Engravers, hand. Engravers, machine. Floormen. Folders. Inspectors. Jackmen, printing. Kettlemen, color mixing. Kettlemen’s helpers. Kier boilers. Knotters. Mangle tenders. Measurers. Mercerizers. Openers. Packers. Pilers. Plaiters. Polishers. Printing-machine tenders. Roller turners. Scutcher tenders. Sewers. Singers. Soaper tenders. Soap mixers. Sprinkler tenders. Steamer tenders. Swing tenders. Tenter-frame tenders. Truckers. Tub washers. Washer tenders. Yarn winders. General Tables In addition to the preceding text tables, five general tables are presented as follows: T a b l e A.— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full-time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State. The presentation in the table in parallel columns of “ average full-time hours per week” and “ average hours actually worked in 1 20 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 week” is for the purpose of easy comparison of the hours that would have been worked in the week had all wage earners in the occupation worked no more nor less than full time, with the average hours that were actually worked in the week. One column shows the full-time hours per week under normal conditions, while the other shows the hours actually worked in the week by all wage earners in the occupa tion in each State and in all States combined. On page 28 (at the end of the table) it is seen that 16,205 males in the 93 plants worked on an average of 5.2 days in 1 week; that their average full-time hours in 1 week were 51.4; that they actually worked 51.1 hours in the week, or 99.4 percent of full time; that they earned an average of 41.8 cents per hour and $21.37 per week; and that had they worked full time at the same average rate per hour as was earned in the 51.1 hours, they would have earned $21.49 in the week. The 3,041 females in the 81 plants in which they were found em ployed worked on an average of 5.2 days in 1 week. Their average full-time hours per week were 51.2 and they worked an average of 43.5 hours in the week or 85 percent of full time. They earned an average of 29.1 cents per hour and $12.65 in the week. Had they worked their average full time of 51.2 hours at the same average rate per hour as was earned in the 43.5 hours they would have earned an average of $14.90. The 19,246 males and females in the 93 plants worked on an aver age of 5.2 days in 1 week. Their average full-time hours per week were 51.3, and in the week they worked an average of 49.9 hours, or 97.3 percent of full time. They earned an average of 40 cents per hour and $19.99 in the week. Had they worked their average full time hours of 51.3 per week at the same average per hour as was earned in the 49.9 hours actually worked they would have earned an average of $20.52 in the week. T a b l e B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State. T a b l e C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State. T a b l e D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State. T a b l e E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State. T A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State able Occupation, sex, and State Ager tenders, male: C on n ecticu t............................. M assachusetts............................ N ew Jersey................................ . N ew Y ork........... .......... .......... . North Carolina......... ................. P ennsylvania............................ Rhode Island....... ..................... . South C arolin a.......................... Total........... .......... .................. 1D ata included in total. N um N um ber of of estab ber wage lish ments earners 3 6 6 1 1 1 5 1 24 3 33 42 0) 0) 0) 20 0) 111 Average days on which wage earners worked in 1 week 5.7 5.3 4.8 (') 0) 0) 5.4 0) 5.2 Aver Aver Aver Aver age Aver age age age full hours Percent age full actual actu of full earn time time earn ally ings time earn hours worked w orked ings per ings per in 1 in 1 hour per week week week week 55.0 50.3 48.7 0) 0) 0) 55.7 0) 51.3 76.4 62.8 47.0 0) 0) <0 59.0 0) 56.7 138.9 $0.393 $21.62 124.9 .320 16.10 96.5 .437 21.28 0) (l) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 105.9 .418 23.28 0) (') 0) 110.5 .378 19.39 $30.06 20.12 20.54 0) 0) 0) 24.67 0) 21.43 21 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR T a b l e A . — Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued Occupation, sex, and State N um N um ber of estab ber of wage lish ments earners Back tenders, printing, male: Connecticut............. ............... . Massachusetts............................. New Jersey................................. N ew Y o r k .................................. North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania................ .............. Rhode Island............................. South Carolina........................... 3 6 6 1 3 1 6 1 Total......................................... 27 414 Balers, male: Massachusetts........................... . N ew Jersey................................ New Y o r k ................................ North Carolina......................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................. . South Carolina........................... 6 3 2 11 6 3 3 Total.............................. ......... Batchers (cloth winders), male.* Connecticut........ ........................ Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. New York.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina........................... 34 Total_________ _____________ Batchers (cloth winders), female: Massachusetts............ ............... South Carolina_______________ 46 Total.......................................... Bath mixers, male: Connecticut............................... . Massachusetts......................... . New Jersey.................................. New York.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania................ ........... . Rhode Island............ ................ South Carolina........................ . 2 1 5 15 6 4 2 8 5 1 1 1 4 6 6 4 1 4 1 Average days on which wage earners w orked in 1 week Aver Aver Aver Aver Aver age age age age age full full hours Percent actual of full earn actu time time earn earn time ings hours ally ings ings per worked w orked per in 1 in 1 per hour week week week week 55.4 48.5 48.7 62.5 56.5 40.1 51.3 4.8 15 3 3 31 16 5 5 78 25 120 86 0) 12 0) 109 <*) 0) 67 121 24 6 7 29 34 297 0) 0) 0) (0 0) 0) $31.3 19.12 18.88 0) 15.97 0) 20.67 51.4 52.9 102.9 .381 19.58 20.15 5.7 5.0 6.0 4.7 4.8 5.8 5.6 48.5 52.2 48.7 53.9 47.6 54.0 55.0 49.0 49.8 53.3 45.0 37.9 51.1 57.6 101.0 95.4 109.4 83.5 79.6 94.6 104.7 .320 .379 .351 .232 .468 .557 .314 15.52 19.78 17.09 12.50 22.28 30.08 17.27 15.68 18.91 18.72 10.45 17.75 28.45 18.06 5.1 51.4 46.0 89.5 .331 17.01 15.24 (0 5.3 0) 4.7 (0 8 17 7 9 8 (0 0) 0) 48.9 50.1 49.5 50.8 52.9 52.6 55.0 0) 0) 52.2 49.7 42.7 49.9 62.5 50.1 59.0 106.7 99.2 86.3 98.2 118.1 95.2 107.3 0) 0) .304 .423 .378 .247 .387 .432 .306 0) 14.87 21.19 18.71 12.55 20.47 22.72 16.83 0) 15.88 21.01 16. l i 12.33 24.16 21.68 18.04 5.3 50.8 51.5 101.4 .377 19.15 19.42 0) 0) 8 8 4.2 49.2 25.7 52.2 .331 16.29 8.50 0) 5.6 5.8 5.1 5.3 0) 4.6 0) 49.6 49.5 49.0 57.5 0) 54.9 (0 0) 61.7 52.8 49.1 54.7 0) 46.9 0) 124.4 106.7 100.2 95.1 0) 85.4 0) .334 .470 .388 .317 0) .402 0) 16.57 23.27 19.01 18.23 0) 22.07 0) 20.57 24.79 19.07 17.34 0) 18.82 0) 0) 0) 0) 55.1 (0 5.3 5.3 4.9 5.0 5.4 5.0 5.8 0) 8 6 0) 53.9 0) 53.3 112.8 $0.501 $27.76 116.5 .339 16.44 82.3 .470 22.89 (0 0) (0 105.1 .296 15.18 0) 0) 0) 96.7 .388 21.38 5.8 4.9 4.4 (0 0) 8 0) 0) 8 0) Total...................................... . Calender tenders, male: Connecticut............................. . Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. N ew York.................................... North Carolina......................... Pennsylvania............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina........................... 27 52 5.4 51.9 53.3 102.7 .394 20.45 20.96 3 8 17 10 11 8 10 5 45 111 76 62 35 20 104 54 4.7 5.1 5.3 4.6 5.5 5.3 4.8 5.5 53.9 49.8 51.7 49.0 54.0 53.3 53.0 55.6 44.8 52.9 53.1 41.9 50.9 55.1 45.2 57.8 83.1 106.2 102.7 85.5 94.3 103.4 85.3 104.0 .457 .339 .442 .414 .284 .425 .439 .274 24.63 16.88 22.85 20.29 15.34 22.65 23.27 15.23 20.48 17.91 23.49 17.35 14.45 23.43 19.84 15.83 Total......................................... Color mixers, male: Connecticut...... .......................... Massachusetts-........................... N ew Jersey.................................. N ew York.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 72 507 5.1 52.1 49.8 95.6 .383 19.95 19.06 4 7 6 1 8 1 9 3 21 42 36 0) 18 0) 62 40 5.2 5.3 5.3 0) 5.2 0) 5.1 5.1 55.5 50.0 49.8 57.9 59.8 52.9 .469 .328 .550 26.03 16.40 27.39 53.0 0) 53.4 55.0 54.2 0) 56.6 59.2 (l) 104.3 119.6 106.2 0) 102.3 (0 106.0 107.6 .319 0) .396 .254 16.91 0) 21.15 13.97 27.18 19.62 29.09 0) 17.30 0) 22.42 15.01 Total.......................................... 39 231 5.2 ’ 52.5 57.6 109.7 .387 20.32 22.28 i Data included in total. 0) 0) 0) 22 DYEING AND FINISHING OP TEXTILES, 1932 T a b l e A . — Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average fulltime and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued Occupation, sex, and State N um ber of Num ber of estab wage lish earners ments Average days on which wage earners w orked in i week Aver Aver Aver Aver age Aver age age age hours Percent age full full actu of full earn time actual time earn ally ings earn hours worked time ings w orked per ings per in 1 in 1 hour per week week week week Drier tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. N ew Jersey.................................. N ew York.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island........................... . South Carolina......................... . 5 8 18 8 16 12 10 4 15 100 221 57 47 38 102 47 5.5 5.4 5.3 5.0 5.1 5.1 5.2 5.3 53.7 50.0 51.0 48.7 54.3 53.0 52.3 55.3 61.0 54.9 54.1 51.4 51.5 48.7 51.7 59.7 113.6 $0.392 $21.05 .332 16.60 109.8 .432 22.03 106.1 105.5 .383 18.65 94.8 .258 14.01 91.9 .446 23.64 98.9 .380 19.87 .241 13.33 108.0 627 5.2 51.6 53.6 103.9 .375 19.35 (9 <9 (9 (9 Total.......................................... 81 Drier tenders, female: N ew Jersey.................................. N ew York............. .................... . 1 1 (0 (0 0) 0) (0 (0 $23.88 18.23 23.36 19.69 13.29 21.72 19.65 14.42 20.09 0) (9 Total.......................................... 2 16 3.8 48.3 31.4 65.0 .270 13.04 8.50 Dyeing-machine tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey................................ New Y ork................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania........................... . R hode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 3 7 18 9 18 12 10 3 38 132 658 71 94 181 175 44 5.2 4.9 5.2 6.4 4.7 4.7 4.8 5.2 53.8 49.1 50.1 48.7 53.2 52.0 51.5 55.0 53.3 50.1 51.5 51.5 48.8 44.5 45.5 55.5 99.1 102.0 102.8 105.7 91.7 85.6 .88.3 100.9 .418 .331 .439 .387 .266 .496 .443 .266 22.49 16.25 21.99 18.85 14.15 25.79 22.81 14.63 22.29 16.55 22.61 19.94 12.95 22.09 20.15 14.78 5.1 50.8 49.7 97.8 .415 21.08 20.61 Total...... ................................... 80 1,393 Engravers, hand, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 1 3 2 1 4 1 (0 T otal...................................... . 12 Engravers, machine, male: Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 4 1 1 4 1 Total...................... .................. 11 Floormen, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. N ew York.................................... N orth Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 1 5 17 8 8 5 4 1 8 7 0) 6.0 6.0 0) <9 52.0 (9 (0 (9 95.8 (9 .901 (9 (9 48.92 (9 (9 46.90 99.4 1.021 51.66 51.37 92.5 1.127 54.43 50.34 54.3 28 5.5 50.6 50.3 5.3 48.3 44.7 0) 0) 0) 11 22 4.9 5.0 0) 0) 0) 0) 35 198 46 41 27 12 5.4 5.1 4.8 4.7 5.0 5.1 0) 52.99 55.29 <9 5.0 (0 7 (9 50.02 55.29 0) 8 0) 0) 0) 1.042 1.151 50.8 48.0 0) 0) <9 105.8 100.0 48.0 48.0 (9) (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 (1} (9 84.0 .935 50.96 0) 0) <9 45.8 (9 42.83 51.7 44.9 86.8 1.004 51.91 45.07 0) (0 54.5 (0 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 (0 (9 h (l) (9 48.6 49.6 48.8 55.4 51.5 52.7 53.8 47.5 41.7 45.5 52.3 50.0 110.7 95.8 85.5 82.1 101.6 94.9 .351 .411 .371 .264 .330 .430 17.06 20.39 18.10 14.63 17.00 22.66 18.90 19.54 15.49 11.99 17.25 21.49 0) 0) (9 (9 (9 (0 Total.......................................... 49 366 5.1 50.4 47.8 94.8 .376 18.95 17.99 Folders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. N ew Jersey................................... N ew Y ork.................................... North Carolina............................ Pennsylvania......... ..................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 3 8 7 6 13 8 10 4 11 90 50 35 57 24 99 39 5.6 5.1 5.5 4.8 5.3 5.3 5.2 5.8 54.1 49.0 51.6 48.5 53.9 50.6 52.8 55.0 57.3 45.3 56.4 38.7 48.8 47.6 48.3 59.8 105.9 92.4 109.3 79.8 90.5 94.1 91.5 108.7 .576 .477 .613 .533 .320 .436 .588 .408 31.16 23.37 31.63 25.58 17.25 22.06 31.05 22.44 33.00 21.61 34.57 20.62 15.61 20.77 28.40 24.42 Total.......................................... 59 405 5.3 51.7 49.2 95.2 .498 25.75 24.47 i Data included in total. 23 WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR A.— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation sex, and State— Uontinued T able Occupation, sex, and State Folders, female: Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. New York.................................... North Carolina...................... ___ Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ Total.......................................... N um Num ber of of estab ber wage lish earners ments 3 10 1 5 5 2 26 39 54 0) 66 27 10 198 Average days on which wage earners w orked in 1 week 5.8 5.1 0) 4.4 4.6 5.4 4.9 48.0 48.1 0) 54.8 51.7 55.0 51.2 38.5 35.2 0) (0 48.0 49.1 49.6 53.8 52.9 53.4 55.0 50.4 (0 48.8 47.6 44.1 46.3 52.6 44.4 60.2 Inspectors, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts—......................... New Jersey................................. N ew Y ork.................................. . North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................. Rhode Island............................... South C arolin a.--...................... Total.......................................... 50 Inspectors, female: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts—.......................... New Jersey— ............................. N ew Y ork.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennyslvania............................... Rhode Island.................... .......... South Carolina............................ Total.....................................— 1 3 6 1 8 2 2 1 24 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) (0 Jackmen, printing, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts......................... . N ew Jersey................................ Pennsylvania............................ . Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ Total.......................................... 1 5 6 1 4 1 18 0) Kettlemen, color mixing, male: Connecticut_____ ____ _______ Massachusetts............................. N ew Jersey................................ North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania................ ............. Rhode Island__________ ____ South Carolina__________ ____ 1 4 11 5 11 8 6 4 0) 50 158 24 34 27 29 12 337 23 39 88 5 11 186 20 16 (0 20 0) A ver Aver Aver Aver Aver age age age age Percent hours age full actual full of full earn time time actu earn earn time ings ally hours ings ings per worked w orked per in i per in 1 hour week week week week 5.4 5.3 5.3 5.2 5.6 5.2 5.9 5.4 5.8 5.2 (0 48.0 48.2 (9 <9 39.9 39.9 52.6 38.9 48.0 (0 (9 (9 (l) 41.6 38.0 <9 .322 .457 .390 .269 .448 .509 .261 .408 <9 86.7 78.8 .238 .336 85.5 99.6 94.4 .213 .349 .256 <9 $20.86 14.72 0) 7.60 14.20 8.64 13.14 0) (0 15.46 22.44 19.34 14.47 23.70 27.18 14.36 15.69 21.77 17.19 12.42 23.57 22.60 15.69 20.56 19.60 (0 11.42 16.20 0) 0) 9.91 12.78 0) 5.3 5.8 5.6 55.2 52.8 54.0 47.2 52.6 51.0 (9 (9 <9 0) 5.3 52.2 44.5 85.2 .249 13.00 <9 .355 .480 17.15 23.47 21.77 19.11 23.95 0) 5.2 4.4 0) 5.1 0) 0) C) (0 11.76 18.43 13.82 0) 48.3 48.9 61.4 39.8 © 127.1 81.4 54.1 62.6 <9 (9 115.7 <9 (9 .383 <9 (9 20.72 (0 0) 0) 0) 10.08 18.32 13.08 0) 11.06 0) 0) 0) 64 5.0 51.0 56.7 111.2 .395 20.15 22.37 4 25 4 6 5.8 4.9 5.8 5.5 0) 4.9 55.0 48.5 48.0 55.0 61.3 55.7 48.8 54.0 111.5 114.8 101.7 98.2 55.0 100.5 <9 (9 .394 28.27 18.28 44.11 15.62 0) 21.55 31.51 21.01 44.88 15.33 54.7 (9 (9 .514 .377 .919 .284 56.5 110.4 .424 21.71 23.96 <9 0) 16.12 22.42 13.15 (0 18.48 18.18 11.12 0) 0) T otal.......................................... Kettlemen’s helpers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts—.......................... New Jersey.................................. North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island.................... ......... South Carolina............................ 1 5 4 3 1 1 1 Total.......................................... 16 90 4.9 51.3 50.8 Kier boilers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts........................... New Jersey.................................. New Y ork ................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania..... .......................Rhode Island............................... South Carolina........................... 3 8 6 7 11 7 10 3 5.7 5.2 5.6 5.0 5.1 5.5 5.4 5.5 Total.......................................... 55 6 31 10 11 16 8 42 8 132 51.7 49.7 53.9 59.6 57.4 51.6 53.3 55.6 53.5 58.7 57.7 65.2 57.3 56.7 59.9 57.2 62.5 58.4 (9 101.7 96.9 88.9 86.1 99.4 83.1 109.5 95.2 2 5 4 4 1 5 1 22 1 Data included in total. 80.2 $0,541 $25.97 73.2 .418 20.11 (9 (9 0) 72.8 .190 10.41 77.2 .356 18.41 95.6 .164 9.02 76.0 .338 17.31 (9 10 0) 0) (9 (9 52 5.1 51.2 33 17 30 0) (0 5.1 4.5 4.9 (0 48.7 48.0 55.0 0) to (0 5.3 (9 (9 w (9 <9 55.8 38.9 46.6 (0 (9 (9 <9 (9 (9 114.6 81.0 84.7 0) v) 0) 99.0 .331 .467 .239 (i) v) (0 .320 113.5 116.1 121.0 96.1 98.8 116.1 107.3 112.4 .490 .356 .464 .403 .287 .521 .405 .325 .391 109.2 0) (i) O) 0) 16.42 25.33 17.69 25.01 24.02 16.47 26.88 21.59 18.07 20.92 0) C1) 21.69 <9 16.24 28.76 20.56 30.24 23.11 16.28 31.24 23.18 20.35 22.83 24 T DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average fulltime and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and percent of full time worked, 1982, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued able Occupation, sex, and State Knotters, female: C onnecticu t............................... Massachusetts___________ ____ New Jersey___________________ New Y ork____________________ North Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania_________________ Rhode Island_________________ South Carolina_______________ Total...................................... . Num N um ber of of estab ber wage lish earners ments Average days on which wage earners w orked in 1 week Aver Aver Aver Aver Aver age age age age Percent age full full hours actu of full earn time actual earn time earn ally time ings ings hours worked w orked per ings per in 1 hour per in 1 week week week week 1 3 4 6 4 1 4 1 0) 21 12 22 21 (0 33 (0 (0 6.0 4.0 5.2 5.3 0) 5.3 0) 0) 48.0 50.7 47.9 54.5 0) 53.1 (0 0) 47.6 37.2 42.2 48.3 0) 44.8 (0 0) (0 0) 99.2 $0,297 $14.26 73.4 .305 15.46 88.1 .276 13.22 88.6 .227 12.37 0) 0) (0 84.4 .264 14.02 0) 0) 0) (0 $14.16 11.34 11.65 10.96 0) 11.83 0) 24 118 5.3 51.4 45.4 88.3 .267 13.72 12.12 Mangle tenders, male: Connecticut.............................. . Massachusetts........................... New Jersey................................ N ew York___ ______ _________ N orth Carolina.......................... Pennsylvania..... ............ ............ Rhode Island.................. ............ South Carolina.................. ........ 2 5 12 8 11 8 9 4 15 43 131 69 49 15 93 55 5.0 5.0 5.6 4.6 5.5 5.1 5.3 5.2 52.7 49.0 51.4 48.6 54.4 52.4 51.4 55.2 49.6 49.3 52.3 41.7 54.9 49.1 52.7 59.4 94.1 100.6 101.8 85.8 100.9 93.7 102.5 107.6 .448 .320 .428 .390 .273 .429 .392 .254 23:61 15.68 22.00 18.95 14.85 22.48 20.15 14.02 22.21 15.79 22.37 16.26 14.95 21.02 20.67 15.08 Total......................................... 59 470 5.2 51.6 51.5 99.8 .366 18.89 18.86 Mangle tenders, female: New York................................... 1 5 3.6 49.5 34.6 69.9 .241 11.93 8.35 Measurers, male: N ew Jersey.................................. New Y ork_____ _____ ________ N orth Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania_________________ Rhode Island_________________ South Carolina........................... 1 3 3 3 3 4 3 18 3 9 30 0) 4.3 5.1 4.7 5.3 5.8 0) 46.7 54.2 50.0 52.7 55.0 (0 41.4 46.1 40.3 55.0 58.3 0) 88.7 85.1 80.6 104.4 106.0 0) .372 .282 .405 .349 .310 0) 17.37 15.28 20.25 18.39 17.05 0) 15.42 13.00 16.35 19.19 18.05 Total.......................................... 17 67 5.5 53.4 53.1 99.4 .323 17.25 17.14 Measurers, female: Connecticut_______ __________ Massachusetts—......................... N ew York____________________ North Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania_________________ Rhode Island____ ____________ 1 2 1 1 1 2 0) 48.0 0) 0) 0) 48.0 (0 45.1 (0 0) 0) 46.1 (0 94.0 0) 0) 0) 96.0 (0 .399 0) 19.15 0) 6 0) 5.7 0) 0) 0) 4.8 (0 (0 .451 0) 21.65 0) 17.99 W 0) 0) 20.79 8 35 5.3 50.8 46.9 92.3 .356 18.08 16.69 2 4 6 4 4 4 6 2 6 9 16 4 5 17 23 7 5.0 5.3 5.4 5.0 5.6 5.9 5.3 5.3 52.5 48.7 51.7 49.1 57.0 53.7 50.6 55.0 48.6 53.8 60.7 48.4 62.7 64.5 48.3 59.0 62.6 110.5 117.4 98.6 110.0 120.1 95.5 107.3 .442 .342 .479 .444 .366 .513 .407 .291 23.21 16.66 24.76 21.80 20.86 27.55 20.59 16.01 21.50 18.41 29.02 21.48 22.96 33.12 19.62 17.17 32 87 5.4 52.0 56.0 107.7 .430 22.36 24.07 22 42 30 8 11 19 11 (0 5.1 5.6 4.5 5.5 5.4 4.8 5.5 (0 48.5 48.8 48.5 54.4 53.5 50.7 55.0 0) 52.8 48.4 38.3 49.6 51.9 43.9 61.1 0) 108.9 99.2 79.0 91.2 97.0 86.6 111.1 0) .339 .448 .405 .262 .475 .448 .249 (0 16.44 21.86 19.64 14.25 25.41 22.71 13.70 0) 17.92 21.68 15.49 13.00 24.62 19.68 15.24 144 5.1 50.1 47.6 95.0 .394 19.74 18.77 T otal_________ _____________ Mercerizers, male: Connecticut__________________ Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. N ew Y ork.................................... North Carolina...................... . Pennsylvania......................... . Rhode Island.............................. South Carolina........................... Total.................................... . Openers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey................................. N ew Y ork .................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island.............................. South Carolina...................... . 1 6 18 8 4 7 5 3 Total.......................................... 52 1 Data included in total. (0 0) 12 0) 0) (0 0) 25 WAGES AND HOURS OP LABOR A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued T able Occupation, sex, and State N um N um ber of ber of estab wage lish earners ments Average days on which wage earners worked in 1 week Aver age full time hours per week Aver Aver Aver Aver age age age hours Percent age full actual actu of full earn time earn ally time ings earn ings ings worked worked per in 1 hour per in 1 week week week Packers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey—............................... New Y ork.................................... North Carolina............................ Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina........................... 3 6 17 9 13 8 9 4 7 30 62 28 61 16 37 35 5.9 6.0 5.6 5.1 5.3 5.7 5.6 6.0 54.3 48.9 49.7 48.8 54.8 53.6 52.2 55.0 55.4 50.8 50.9 43.3 47.1 54.2 52.5 61.9 102.0 $0,474 $25. 74 103.9 .353 17.26 102.4 .439 21.82 .421 20.54 88.7 85.9 .266 14.58 101.1 .446 23.91 .438 22.86 100.6 112.5 .261 14.36 $26.23 17.90 22.32 18.25 12.53 24.18 22.97 16.14 Total.......................................... 69 255 5.6 52.0 51.4 98.8 .367 19.08 18.86 Pilers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. North Carolina........................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 2 5 3 9 2 11 45 5 60 14 4.3 5.3 3.6 5.0 4.9 54.5 48.0 53.0 52.5 55.0 39.1 49.2 34.6 45.2 54.1 71.7 102.5 65.3 86.1 98.4 .353 .278 .218 .347 .209 19.24 13.34 11.55 18.22 11.50 13.79 13.67 7.53 15.68 11.32 T otal......................................... 21 135 5.0 51.4 46.5 90.5 .303 15.57 14.10 Plaiters, male: Massachusetts............................. New Jersey................................... N ew Y ork.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina........................... 5 6 8 8 6 10 1 37 32 37 38 22 32 5.3 5.4 4.9 5.0 5.0 5.0 52.1 51.5 48.6 53.4 53.0 52.3 60.6 54.3 43.0 49.8 50.3 46.6 116.3 105.4 88.5 93.3 94.9 89.1 .308 .369 .325 .223 .351 .312 16.05 19.00 15.80 11.91 18.60 16.32 0) (9 18.69 20.04 13.98 11.12 17.68 14.54 Total.......................................... 44 202 5.1 51.8 51.1 98.6 .308 15.95 15.71 Plaiters, female: N ew Y ork.................................... 1 6 3.8 49.5 34.5 69.7 .240 11.88 8.28 Polishers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... T otal.......................................... Printing-machine tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts........................... . N ew Jersey.................................. N ew Y ork.................................... North Carolina-.................... . Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 1 3 3 1 2 T otal.......................................... Roller turners, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 1 4 2 1 2 1 Total.......................................... 11 Scutcher tenders, male: Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... Total.......................................... 1 1 3 1 2 8 0) <9 (9 (9 (0 13 7 6 30 10 3 6 6 1 o 1 6 1 26 1Data included in total. <9 24 92 74 0) (9 (0 <9 (9 (0 109.7 89.8 .350 .578 16.98 27.74 18.61 24.93 4.7 5.5 54.3 49.8 42.8 48.7 78.8 97.8 .422 .425 22.91 21.17 18.05 20.71 5.0 5.4 5.9 55.4 49.1 48.9 (0 50.4 52.5 57.0 50.0 0) 52.5 (l) 54.5 94.8 116.1 102.2 .975 1.063 1.070 0) .330 54.02 52.19 52.32 51.21 60.59 53.45 16. 63 17.31 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 5.0 (9 52.9 <9 (9 313 5.3 50.8 55.2 103.0 (0 108.7 (9 (9 0) (9 9 3 5 26 5.3 (9 5.8 4.7 (9 4.6 (9 5.1 (9 7 24 (9 (9 48.8 48.0 47.2 38.0 54.6 40.1 (9 (9 104.2 (9 96.7 79.2 (9 (9 1.132 0) 1.019 <9 (9 (9 (9 (9 59.88 (9 (9 61.71 (9 51.77 56.23 (9 .404 .517 19.72 24.82 (9 19.05 19.66 (0 (9 (9 .425 <9 (9 23.21 <9 17.06 51.7 44.6 86.3 .398 20.58 17.73 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 73.4 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 5.7 53.3 55.3 8 8 103.8 .224 11.94 12.36 5.4 5.2 56.1 51.8 61.6 54.8 109.8 105.8 .338 .304 18.96 15.75 20.83 16.64 8 8 3 (9 53.2 43.1 (9 65 (9 <9 (9 48.5 48.0 6.0 5.3 (9 14 (9 (9 (9 (9 (9 8 8 (9 (9 26 T DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 A .— Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hour, and per cent of full time worked, 1982, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued able Occupation, sex, and State Sewers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. New Y ork.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ N um Num ber of of estab ber wage lish earners ments 3 5 8 3 8 4 7 1 Average days on which wage earners worked in 1 week 5.0 5.2 5.3 5.2 5.2 5.4 5.5 0) 5.3 55.0 48.2 52.3 49.3 53.8 51.9 53.6 0) 51.0 48.0 51.0 52.8 45.4 49.2 58.4 56.4 0) 52.2 12 70 76 13 129 10 30 20 360 4.3 5.4 5.4 4.5 5.8 5.5 4.8 5.4 5.4 52.9 47.8 48.5 48.2 54.8 51.5 51.2 55.0 51.4 40.9 39.3 42.8 36.9 52.6 49.5 40.5 54.4 46.0 77.3 82.2 88.2 76.6 96.0 96.1 79.1 98.9 89.5 .309 .244 .330 .330 .252 .335 .336 .222 2 8 10 5 8 5 7 3 48 4 32 25 5 18 13 18 12 127 5.0 5.3 5.6 5.2 5.2 4.6 5.2 5.4 5.3 51.3 49.2 49.7 48.7 55.0 53.6 51.9 55.8 51.6 50.6 49.6 54.6 47.8 51.0 46.2 47.5 60.8 51.1 98.6 100.8 109.9 98.2 92.7 86.2 91.5 109.0 99.0 5.6 5.1 5.2 0) 53.1 49.8 50.9 0) 0) (0 53.3 55.0 68.3 53.8 56.1 0) 0) 0) 50.5 58.4 51.8 39 Total.......................................... Singers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. N ew Jersey.................................. New Y ork.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ Total.......................................... Soaper tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. N ew Jersey.................................. N ew Y ork.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... R hode Island.............................. South Carolina............................ 50 2 5 7 1 1 1 9 2 8 76 32 (l) 0) 0) 50 19 Total.......................................... Soap mixers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. Pennsylvania............................... R hode Island............................... 28 198 Total.......................................... Sprinkler tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. New Y ork.................................... North Carolina........................... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 13 8 24 0) 5.5 5.6 0) 5.5 5.5 2 2 2 6 4 8 4 6 8 7 9 5 25 12 4.3 5.1 5.4 4.9 5.6 4.9 5.8 T otal.......................................... Steamer tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania...............- .............. R hode Island............................... South Carolina............................ Total.......................................... 28 72 5.1 28 27 0) 4.6 5.0 87.3 $0,396 $21.78 105.8 .285 13.74 101.0 .436 22.80 92.1 .444 21.89 91.4 .231 12.43 112.5 .387 20.09 105.2 .355 19.03 0) 0) (*) 102.4 .332 16.93 5 64 26 5 16 8 28 0) 154 Total........................................ Sewers, female: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. N ew Jersey.................................. N ew Y ork .................................... N orth Carolina........................... Pennsylvania............................... R hode Island............................... South Carolina............................ i Data included in total. Aver Aver Aver Aver age Aver age age age Percent hours age full actu of full earn full actual time time earn earn ings hours ally wtime ings orked per ings per worked in 1 hour in 1 per week week week week 2 6 13 6 7 5 8 3 1 3 6 1 2 1 3 4 1 1 2 1 13 0) (l) 4 10 0) 0) 0) 9 0) 71 h 5.3 4.9 5.2 h 5.4 0) 4.9 $19.00 14.51 23.02 20.15 11.36 22.60 20.02 (9 17.32 .277 16.35 11.66 16.01 15.91 13.81 17.25 17.20 12.21 14.24 12.64 9.59 14.13 12.21 13.28 16.60 13.58 12.06 12.73 .496 .300 .424 .499 .298 .537 .389 .237 .366 25.44 14.76 21.07 24.30 16.39 28.78 20.19 13.22 18.89 25.08 14.87 23.18 23.85 15.22 24.80 18.45 14.42 128.6 108.0 110.2 W 0) 0) 94.7 106.2 .406 .307 .406 0) .402 .254 21.56 15.29 20.67 (9 P> (9 21.43 13.97 27.70 16.53 22.77 (9 (9 (9 20.31 14.84 55.0 106.2 .350 18.13 19.23 0) 48.5 48.0 0) 54.0 0) 60.1 53.9 0) 60.9 0) 123.9 112.3 0) 112.8 0) .343 .479 0) .358 (9 16.64 22.99 (9 19.33 (9 20.62 25.81 (9 21.83 50.6 57.7 114.0 .403 20.39 23.24 53.3 48.3 52.1 47.3 53.0 53.3 56.3 52.4 42.5 59.0 48.4 42.3 54.6 48.8 61.1 79.7 122.2 92.9 89.4 103.0 91.6 108.5 22.65 15.36 22.40 16.60 14.47 20.20 12.95 51.0 97.3 .425 .318 .430 .351 .273 .379 .230 .338 17.71 18.05 18.74 20.82 14.84 14.90 18.48 14.03 17.26 0) 48.4 48.0 0) 0) 54.1 (l) 49.4 0) 47.9 47.4 (0 (9 65.8 0 51.4 (l) 99.0 98.8 0) 0) 121.6 0) 104.0 0) .268 .443 (9 12.97 21.26 <9 (9 17.26 (9 17.04 (9 12.81 20.98 0) (9 21.00 (9 17.72 h .319 (9 .345 18.71 27 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR Average number of days on which wage earners worked. average full time and actual hours and earnings per week, average earnings per hourj arid per cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation, sex, and State— Continued T a b le A .— Occupation, sex, and State Swing tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. New Y ork.................................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina........................... N um N um ber of of estab ber wage lish earners ments Average days on which wage earners worked in i week Aver Aver Aver Aver Aver age age age age full actual full hours Percent age earn actu of full time time earn ings ally time earn hours worked w orked per ings ings per in 1 hour in 1 per week week week week 2 5 2 8 3 8 1 22 49 5 21 6 51 0) 5.3 5.0 5.8 4.9 5.3 4.6 0) 55.0 49.6 52.4 48.1 51.9 53.8 0) 52.3 56.1 55.4 45.1 61.0 46.2 (0 T otal......................................... Swing tenders, female: New Jersey.................................. N ew Y ork.................................... Pennsylvania............................... 29 160 5.0 52.0 51.4 98.8 .336 17.47 0) 0) 0) \l) 0) (n 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) 0) Total.......................................... Tenter-frame tenders, male: Connecticut...... ................- ........ M assachusetts......................... -New Jersey.................................. New Y ork .................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina........................... 3 13 4.8 53.7 40.6 75.6 .275 14.77 11.18 4 7 17 10 10 7 10 4 22 146 452 69 54 38 123 66 5.6 5.2 5.5 5.1 4.9 5.4 5.1 5.6 54.5 50.0 50.8 49.1 53.0 53.3 53.4 55.8 65.9 55.2 51.9 50.5 47.0 58.9 50.9 64.5 120.9 110.4 102.2 102.9 88.7 110.5 95.3 115.6 .452 .320 .430 .378 .271 .428 .405 .261 24.63 16.00 21.84 18.56 14.36 22.81 21.63 14.56 29.78 17.65 22.33 19.10 12.73 25.23 20.63 16.80 Total.......................................... Tenter-frame tenders, female: Connecticut............... ................. New Jersey.................................. New Y ork.................................... Pennsylvania............................... Rhode Island............................... 69 970 5.3 51.5 53.3 103.5 .385 19.83 20.55 0) 15.89 0) 15.41 Total........... .............................. Truckers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. New Y ork .................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island.............................. South Carolina........................... 9 1 1 1 1 3 1 2 2 0) 0 0) <*) 0) 0) 95.1 $0,391 $21.51 113.1 .287 14.24 .381 19.96 105.7 .332 15.97 93.8 117.5 .373 19.36 .374 20.12 85.9 0) 0) 0) $20.43 16.12 21.07 14.97 22.75 17.28 0) 17.30 0) (1) 0) 0) 0) 0) 48.6 47.1 0) 0) 96.9 (9 0) (0 0) 0) 76.8 90.7 0) .327 (l) .314 .302 16.92 15.52 13.00 14.09 32 5.3 (0 0) 4.7 5.1 53.9 51.4 41.4 46.6 75 4.9 50.5 43.8 86.7 .319 16.11 13.95 2 7 13 8 11 8 9 4 29 188 199 51 82 41 91 69 5.4 5.3 5.4 5.4 5.2 5.1 5.0 5.7 54.3 48.8 49.6 48.8 54.3 53.4 53.5 55.0 50.7 51.9 49.0 47.3 48.5 56.9 49.6 60.5 93.4 106.4 98.8 96.9 89.3 106.6 92.7 110.0 .430 .314 .429 .370 .236 .373 .361 .235 23.35 15.32 21.28 18.06 12.81 19.92 19.31 12.93 21.82 16.32 21.00 17.52 11.43 21.20 17.88 14.24 Total.......................................... T ub washers, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.................................. New Y ork.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania.............................. Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 62 750 5.3 51.2 51.2 100.0 .344 17.58 17.58 Total.......................................... Washer tenders, male: Connecticut................................. Massachusetts............................. New Jersey.... .............................. New York.................................... North Carolina........................... Pennsylvania........................... ... Rhode Island............................... South Carolina............................ 21 34 5.0 3 6 15 8 11 7 10 5 29 85 295 41 36 22 98 54 Total.......................................... 65 660 *Data included in total. 11 14 1 5 (0 1 1 1 5 1 0) 6 12 9 0) 0) 4.8 4.7 0) 0) 7 C1) 0) C) 0) 113.9 94.7 .308 .424 15.28 20.69 (0 W 0} P> 0) 0) v) 0) 0) 0) 110.5 (0 0) 50.8 55.3 108.9 5.2 5.2 5.1 5.0 5.0 5.2 5.4 5.4 53.4 48.2 51.1 48.9 54.2 52.1 52.1 55.2 51.4 53.0 51.2 45.3 50.7 54.3 50.2 61.1 5.2 51.4 51.8 0) 0) 56.5 46.2 0) (1K 59.8 0) 5.3 0) 49.6 '48.8 0) 54.1 0) .352 0) 17.42 19.59 i1) 0) 0) 0) 19.04 (l) 21.03 0) .355 18.03 19.62 96.3 110.0 100.2 92.6 93.5 104.2 96.4 110.7 .428 .309 .437 .372 .248 .458 .369 .240 22.86 14.89 22.33 18.19 13.44 23.86 19.22 13.25 22.02 16.37 22.35 16.83 12.56 24.89 18.52 14.67 100.8 .378 19.43 19.58 28 T DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES. 1932 A . — Average number of days on which wage earners worked, average full time and actual hours and earnings per weeky average earnings vet houry and per cent of full time worked, 1932, by occupation sex, and State— Continued able Occupation, sex, and State Num N um ber of ber of estab wage lish earners ments Average days on which wage earners worked in 1 week Aver Aver Aver Aver age Aver age age age hours Percent age full full actu of full earn time actual time ally time ings earn earn hours worked w orked per ings ings per in i in 1 hour per week week week week Yarn winders, male: 4 91 3.8 56.3 32.1 57.0 $0,346 $19.48 1 8 4 0) 270 66 0) 4.2 4.8 0) 53.8 52.6 (0 39.4 40.1 0) 73.2 76.2 0) .250 .309 (0 13.45 16.25 (0 9.85 12.41 13 344 4.3 53.4 39.3 73.6 .262 13.99 10.29 Rhode Island_________________ South Carolina ................ 4 8 18 9 25 12 10 5 233 1,247 2,126 334 675 223 737 360 5.5 5.3 5.3 5.2 5.1 5.4 5.4 5.9 54.8 48.9 50.4 48.9 54.6 52.0 52.8 55.1 54.3 50.4 48.4 45.8 49.2 56.1 51.9 64.2 99.1 103.1 96.0 93.7 90.1 107.9 98.3 116.5 .497 .392 .506 .464 .326 .529 .475 .296 27.24 19.17 25.50 22.69 17.80 27.51 25.08 16.31 26.98 19.76 24.49 21.27 16.08 29.70 24.66 19.01 Total.......................................... 91 5,935 5.3 51.3 50.7 98.8 .441 22.62 22.34 M assachusetts________________ New Jersey___________________ New York— _________________ North Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania_________________ Rhode Island_________________ South Carolina_____________ 3 7 18 8 14 6 10 5 59 407 500 76 212 103 216 106 5.3 5.7 5.3 4.7 4.7 5.2 5.3 5.8 54.4 48.0 48.7 48.8 54.8 50.6 53.4 55.0 49.3 44.4 41.0 39.6 42.7 47.9 44.7 60.3 90.6 92.5 84.2 81.1 77.9 94.7 83.7 109.6 .344 .269 .357 .290 .215 .359 .318 .213 18.71 12.91 17.39 14.15 11.78 18.17 16.98 11.72 16.97 11.94 14.63 11.48 9.17 17.21 14.20 12.86 Yarn winders, female: New Jersey___________________ North Carolina_______________ Total ........................... .......... Other employees, male: New Y o r k ___________________ Other employees, female: $11.08 Total _____________________ 71 1,679 5.3 50.6 44.4 87.7 .298 15.08 13.22 All employees, male: C on n ecticu t_________________ M assachusetts________________ New Jersey___________________ New York _____ ___________ North Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania________________ Rhode Island_________________ South C arolin a ____________ _ 5 8 18 10 25 12 10 5 618 3,174 5,298 1,063 1,610 865 2,447 1,130 5.3 5.3 5.3 5.1 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.6 54.5 49.0 50.3 48.9 54.4 52.2 52.9 55.2 54.0 52.1 49.8 45.7 48.3 53.4 50.8 61.2 99.1 106.3 99.0 93.5 88.8 102.3 96.0 110.9 .487 .379 .476 .417 .296 .497 .453 .278 26.54 18.57 23.94 20. 39 16.10 25.94 23.96 15.35 26.32 19. 76 23.69 19.07 14. 29 26. 56 23.03 17.01 Total............... .......................... 93 16,205 5.2 51.4 51.1 99.4 .418 21.49 21.37 All employees, female: Connecticut _________________ M assachusetts________________ New Jersey _______________ _ New Y ork____________________ North Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania_________________ Rhode Island_____________ _ . South C arolin a __________ __ . 3 7 18 9 20 9 10 5 81 577 741 154 797 204 337 150 5.1 5.7 5.2 4.5 4.8 5.0 5.2 5.7 54.1 48.0 48.7 48.7 54.5 51.7 52.9 55.0 48.1 43.2 40.6 38.4 43.7 44.6 44.2 58.5 88.9 90.0 83.4 78.9 80.2 86.3 83.6 106.4 .347 .286 .352 .285 .232 .338 .316 .210 18.77 13.73 17.14 13.88 12.64 17.47 16.72 11.55 16.67 12.34 14.28 10.95 10.15 15.07 13.99 12.28 T o t a l ._____________________ 81 3,041 5.2 51.2 43.5 85.0 .291 14.90 12.65 All employees, male and female: Connecticut__________________ Massachusetts________________ N ew Jersey___________________ New York_______________ ____ North Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania_________________ Rhode Island_________________ South Carolina_______________ 5 8 18 10 25 12 10 5 699 3,751 6,039 1,217 2,407 1,069 2,784 1,280 5.3 5.3 5.3 5.0 4.9 5.1 5.2 5.6 54.4 48.9 50.1 48.9 54.4 52.1 52.9 55.1 53.3 50.8 48.7 44.8 46.8 51.7 50.0 60.9 98.0 103.9 97.2 91.6 86.0 99.2 94. 5 110.5 .472 .367 .463 .403 .276 .471 .439 .270 25.68 17.95 23.20 19.71 15.01 24.54 23. 22 14.88 25.20 18.62 22.53 18.04 12.92 24.37 21.94 16.45 Total__________________ ____ 93 19, 246 5.2 51.3 49.9 97.3 .400 20.52 19.99 1 Pata included in total. T a b le B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State Number of wage earners whose earnings per hour were—• Occupation, sex, and State 45 $0.457 .339 111 .442 76 .414 62 .284 35 .425 20 .439 104 .274 54 16, un der 18 cts. 5 8 18 8 16 12 10 4 15 100 221 57 47 38 102 47 .392 .332 .432 .383 .258 .446 .380 .241 1 1 30, un der 35 cts. 16 1 45, un der 50 cts. 2 13 9 16 4 6 36 1 27 15 20 28 7 2 38 7 8 2 6 6 3 18 10 33 13 35 50, un der 60 cts. 60, un.der 70 cts. 70, un der 80 cts. 7 16 1 1 42 1 8 75 92 87 111 97 3 27 7 41 14 17 5 7 139 22 51 2 3 27 1 10 24 13 8 3 7 3 1 30 2 11 3 14 14 2 21 6 14 12 2 22 2 51 71 81 no 207 75 22 3 1 3 10 10 15 17 391 30 11 1 182 3 39 5 5 18 T otal_______________________ 81 627 .375 1 1 13 3 .285 .223 3 T otal........................................... 2 16 .270 3 3 Dyeing-machine tenders male: Connecticut__________________ M assachusetts________________ N ew Jersey. __ ______ __ __ N ew Y o r k . . ________________ N orth Carolina____ ____ ______ 3 7 18 9 18 38 132 658 71 94 .418 .331 .439 .387 .266 1 42 2 32 33 6 46 5 9 21 5 26 34 29 6 80, un der 90 cts. 90 cts., un der $1 — i— — 1 63 2 5 8 1 4 9 Drier tenders, female: N ew Jersey___________________ N ew Y ork ____________________ 40, un der 45 cts. 35, un der 40 cts. $1, $1.10, $1.25, $1.50 un un un and der der der over $1.10 $1.25 $1.50 1 1 1 11 7 LABOR .383 25, un der 30 cts. OP 507 T otal__________ __________ 20, un der 25 cts. HOURS 72 Drier tenders, male: Connecticut__________ ______ Massachusetts________________ N ew Jersey___________________ N ew Y ork ____________________ N orth Carolina_______________ Pennsylvania_________________ R hode Island_________________ South Carolina_______________ 18, un der 20 cts. AND 3 8 17 10 11 8 10 5 14, un der 16 cts. WAGES Calender tenders, male: Cnrmp.r't.imit. ................ Massachusetts— _______ N ew Jersey______ _________ N ew Y o r k . . _______________ __ North Carolina. __ _ Pennsylvania__ R hode Island_________ ______ South Carolina_____________ _ Aver N um N um age ber of ber of earn 12, estab wage ings Un un lish earn der der per 12 ers ments 14 hour cts. cts. T a b le B.— Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued Occupation, sex, and State Number of wage earners whos^ ; >ti jr.n-s i . * 14, un der 16 cts. 16, un der 18 cts. 50, un der 60 cts. 60, un der 70 cts. 70, un der 80 cts. 10 22 47 28 60 42 28 4 11 485 271 142 39 11 5 2 3 5 14 5 12 16 22 1 3 21 4 25 20 9 1 9 8 7 3 7 13 1 8 4 1 4 2 5 11 44 17 1 13 42 80 102 35 1 2 4 1 6 2 12 3 4 2 16 12 20 7 12 65 1 51 107 107 178 17 1 13 8 21 11 2 4 1 1 13 181 $0. 496 175 .443 44 .266 1,393 .415 3 8 7 6 13 8 10 4 11 90 50 35 57 24 99 39 .576 .477 .613 .533 .320 .436 .588 .408 Total Folders, female: Massachusetts N ew Jersey N ew Y ork N orth Carolina R hode Island South Carolina 59 405 .498 9 39 18 43 36 3 10 1 5 5 2 39 54 0) 66 27 10 .541 .418 0) .190 .356 .164 5 2 3 13 16 2 17 24 4 16 0) 5 3 2 26 198 .338 s 20 26 1 4 11 5 . 11 8 6 4 3 50 158 24 34 27 29 12 .429 .322 .457 .390 .269 .448 .509 .261 3 7 11 5 1 2 7 2 50 337 .408 4 22 30 38 Total ____ __ - _ (9 21 1 5 2 11 1 5 2 1 27 7 29 17 26 9 2 8 13 7 21 1 2 1 3 77 1 57 3 3 23 1 1 1 2 1 5 5 9 8 7 j 1 85 71 44 9 3 5 10 14 3 4 7 31 1 16 1 90 cts., un der $1 $1, $1.10, $1.25, $1.50 un un un der der der and $1.10 $1.25 $1.50 over 4 TEXTILES, 1932 80 80, un der 90 cts. OF Total Folders, male: C onnecticut Massachusetts N ew Jersey N ew York N orth Carolina Pennsylvania R hode Island South Carolina T otal Inspectors, male: Connecticut Massachusetts^ N ew Jersey N ew York N orth Carolina Pennsyl vania R hode Island South Carolina 2 40, un der 45 cts. FINISHING 25, un der 30 cts. 30, un der 35 cts. were— 45, un der 50 cts. 35, un der 40 cts. 18, 20, un un der der 25 20 cts. i cts. AND 12 10 3 A ver age 12, earn Un un der der ings 12 per 14 hour cts. cts. DYEING Dyeing-m achine tenders, male— Continued. N um N um ber of ber of estab wage lish earn ments ers CO O Inspectors, female: Connecticut____ Massachusetts... N ew Jersey___ N ew Y ork........... N orth Carolina.. Pennsylvania.__ R hode Island___ South C arolin aTotal.. 1 3 6 1 8 2 2 1 0) 23 39 12 88 5 11 7 0) .238 .336 .301 .213 .349 .256 .155 3 1 25 12 1 2 3 1 4 3 28 13 .448 .320 .428 .390 .273 .429 .392 .254 Total____________ 59 470 .366 3 6 6 1 2 1 6 1 24 92 74 4 14 17 65 23 .975 1.063 1.070 1.309 .330 1.475 1.132 .417 26 313 1.019 3’ 5 8 3 8 4 7 1 5 64 26 5 16 8 28 (!) .396 .285 .436 .444 .231 .387 .355 0) 39 154 .332 Printing-machine tenders, male: Connecticut______ _________ Massachusetts______________ N ew Jersey_________________ N ew Y ork______ ___________ N orth Carolina_____________ Pennsylvania______ ________ R hode Island_______________ South Carolina_____________ Total.. Sewers, male: Connecticut____ Massachusetts__ N ew Jersey_____ N ew Y ork______ N orth Carolina.. Pennsylvania___ R hode Is la n d .... South Carolina.. T ota l... 46 43 30 1 19 26 1 86 17 19 1 24 22 4 11 11 10 2 26 7 1 42 60 71 15 4 2 17 8 30 2 10 1 74 25 1 6 19 3 136 5 6 9 1 13 52 22 1 7 2 7 1 1 2 2 4 7 2 1 3 4 4 1 3 5 6 2 3 1 10 5 5 11 8 20 10 46 4 1 3 3 1 1 9 15 2 1 2 7 3 4 2 4 1 7 2 10 5 2 1 1 1 56 13 19 23 16 4 12 0) 3 1 33 3 1 3 3 26 45 3 2 18 8 1 3 2 2 27 6 14 9 7 19 106 49 14 2 21 1 2 10 6 2 5 5 5 4 29 22 3 4 LABOR 15 43 131 69 49 15 93 55 2 OF 2 5 12 8 11 8 9 4 7 1 3 11 HOURS .249 18 21 2 3 2 2 AND 186 0) 1 4 10 26 WAGES 24 M angle tenders, male: Connecticut_______ Massachusetts_____ N ew Jersey________ N ew Y ork _________ North Carolina____ Pennsylvania_____ R hode Island______ South Carolina____ 21 2 0) 22 * For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total. CO T a b l e B . — Average and classified earnings per hour in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued Number of wage earners whose earnings per hour were— Occupation, sex, and State .277 146 452 69 54 38 123 22 66 .452 .320 .430 .378 .271 .428 .405 .261 970 .385 Tenter-frame tenders, female: Connecticut........................ New Jersey.......................... N ew Y ork____ ___________ Pennsylvania........... ......... Rhode Island...................... Total.. 75 .319 29 188 199 .314 .429 45 40 21 95 118 63 35 4 1 292 15 51 33 126 .438 .327 .240 .314 .302 Truckers, male: Connecticut___ MassachusettsN ew Jersey____ 128 44 10 un der 70 cts. 70, un der 80, un der 90 cts. 90 cts., un der $1 $ 1. un der $1.10, $1.25, un un $1.50 der and der $1.10 $1.25 $1.50 over 162 349 17 24 17 20 20 13 122 TEXTILES, 1932 360 50, un der 60 cts. OF Total.. 50 45, un der 50 cts. FINISHING Total............... . Tenter-frame tenders, male: Connecticut____________ Massachusetts-............ . N ew Jersey______ ______ N ew Y ork ......... ............ . North C arolin a............... Pennsylvania................. R hode Island.................... South Carolina ................. 12 $0,309 70 .244 76 .330 13 .330 129 .252 10 .335 30 .336 .222 20 40, un der 45 AND Sewers, female: Connecticut____ Massachusetts... N ew Jersey......... N ew Y ork______ North Carolina.. P ennsylvania.... R hode Island.. South Carolina.. 35, un der 40 cts. DTElNG N um N um A ver age ber of ber of estab wage earn Un ings lish earn der per ments 12 ers hour cts. 8 11 8 9 4 51 82 41 91 69 .370 .236 .373 .361 .235 Total................... 62 750 .344 Washer tenders, male: Connecticut.......... Massachusetts— N ew Jersey______ N ew Y ork_______ N orth Carolir»a___ Pennsylvania____ Rhode Island........ South Carolina. __ 3 6 15 8 11 7 10 5 29 85 295 41 36 22 98 54 .428 .309 .437 .372 .248 .458 .369 .240 9 12 10 5 43 47 2 6 16 4 3 39 26 3 91 135 139 40 9 16 17 20 22 1 6 17 3 6 1 3 111 195 51 16 15 24 14 21 8 1 167 12 2 32 3 2 1 93 11 1 2 5 12 6 7 5 7 2 5 1 7 13 12 18 23 13 36 89 69 108 205 109 26 19 6 4 12 27 21 2 660 .378 4 91 .346 Y a m winders, female: N ew Jersey______ N orth C arolina.._ Pennsylvania____ 1 8 4 8 270 66 .245 .250 .309 12 12 17 7 22 4 70 9 55 4 4 44 42 28 11 3 13 344 .262 12 12 17 7 22 83 59 90 39 3 Total__________ T otal__________ OF LABOR HOURS 65 Y a m winders, male: N orth Carolina—_ AND 1 23 20 8 5 6 2 22 6 WAGES N ew Y o r k ............ N orth Carolina— Pennsylvania____ R hode Island........ South Carolina. 00 00 34 T DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 able C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupa tions, 1982, by sex and State N um N um ber of ber of Occupation, sex, and State estab wage lish earn ments ers Calender tenders, male: Connecticut__________ Massachusetts________ N ew Jersey___________ N ew Y ork____________ North Carolina_______ Pp.rinsyl vania _ Rhode Island_________ _______ Total........................... Drier tenders, male: Connecticut Massachusetts ........ N ew Jersey___________ N ew York____________ North Carolina........... . Pfinnsylvanift. _____ _ Rhode _________ Island South Carolina_____ ... Aver age full time hours per week 45 53.9 3 8 111 49.8 76 17 51.7 62 10 49.0 11 35 54.0 20 53.3 8 104 10 53.0 5 South 54 Carolina 55.6 72 507 52.1 5 8 18 8 16 12 10 4 15 100 221 57 47 38 102 47 53.7 50.0 51.0 48.7 54.3 53.0 52.3 55.3 627 51.6 8 8 Total........................... 81 Drier tenders, female: N ew Jersey___________ N ew Y ork____________ 1 1 T otal.__ . . . . . . . . . __ 2 16 48.3 Dyeing-machine tenders, male: Connecticut_____ ____ Massachusetts________ N ew Jersey_____ - _- _ N ew Y ork...................... North Carolina_______ Pennsylvania______ i _ Rhode Island_________ South Carolina_______ 3 7 18 9 18 12 10 3 38 132 658 71 94 181 175 44 53.8 49.1 50.1 48.7 53.2 52.0 51.5 55.0 T otal_______________ 80 1,393 50.8 11 90 50 35 57 24 99 39 54.1 49.0 51.6 48.5 53.9 50.6 52.8 55.0 Total............... ............ 59 405 51.7 Folders, female: Massachusetts________ New Jersey___________ New Y ork____________ North Carolina_______ Rhode Island............. . South Carolina_______ 3 10 1 5 5 2 39 54 0) 66 27 10 48.0 48.1 (0 54.8 51.7 55.0 T otal........................... 26 198 51.2 Un der 48 3 5 Over 48, 48 un der 50 74 28 14 2 17 50 10 15 13 25 7 3 Over 50, un der 54 2 1 13 54 55 Over 55, un der 60 60 35 18 2 4 4 1 61 28 2 10 47 9 7 17 Over 60 5 1 8 16 16 132 19 73 16 79 142 24 6 2 3 47 148 25 3 18 4 38 5 11 12 7 4 14 11 12 3 3 38 4 9 77 13 2 12 18 19 238 21 6 9 58 28 9 8 44 1 2 6 3 81 115 6 53 4 62 19 (0 Folders, male: Connecticut__________ 3 Massachusetts________ 8 7 New Jersey___________ New Y ork____________ 6 N orth Carolina_______ 13 Pennsylvania_________ 8 Rhode _________ Island 10 4 South Carolina_______ *Data included in total. Number of wage earners whose full-time hours per week were— 0) 13 12 7 3 84 482 "*16" 35 19 28 26 40 73 625 51 5 68 15 14 5 6 12 6 17 103 3 39 49 0) 9 37 24 13 25 8 2 42 20 "6 0 " ""§4" 95 140 29 11 5 43 28 8 44 5 4 11 6 5 83 75 154 168 14 6 9 10 10 2 12 13 10 12 3 4 2 60 45 2 21 39 24 39 18 68 136 2 2 64 7 20 10 10 90 2 2 20 74 19 35 WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR T able C.— Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupa tions t 1982, by sex and State— C o n t in u e d N um ber of Occupation, sex, and State estab lish ments N um ber of wage earn ers Aver age full time hours per week Inspectors, male: fJnnTiftOttantf Massachusetts _ N ew Jersey___________ N ew Y ork____________ North Carolina Pennsylvania _ _ Rhode Isla n d ., .... South Carolina 1 4 11 5 11 8 6 4 0) 50 158 24 34 27 29 12 0) 48.0 49.1 49.6 53.8 52.9 53.4 55.0 Total............................ 50 337 50.4 Inspectors, female: Connecticut - Massachusetts.............. New Jersey_______ ___ N ew Y ork____________ North Carolina . Pennsylvania Rhode Tsland .... South Carolina_______ 1 3 6 1 8 2 2 1 0) 23 39 0) 88 5 11 0) 0) 48.0 48.2 0) 55.2 52.8 54.0 (0 Total............................ 24 186 52.2 Mangle tenders, male: Connecticut__________ Massachusetts________ New Jersey___________ New Y ork____________ North Carolina_______ Pennsylvania_________ Rhode Island_________ South Carolina 2 5 12 8 11 8 9 4 15 43 131 69 49 15 93 55 52.7 49.0 51.4 48.6 54.4 52.4 51.4 55.2 Total........................... Number of wage earners whose full-time hours per week were— Un der 48 48 49 131 4 2 4 20 14 26 140 55.4 49.1 48.9 0) 50.4 0) 52.9 0) 0) 4 141 1 58 12 154 51.0 *Data included in total. 36 19 39 3 6 26 3 47 6 85 3 25 24 92 74 0) 14 (0 65 0) 39 3 26 10 0) 25 71 30 3 6 6 1 2 1 6 1 Total_______________ Over 60 3 4 (0 Printing-machine tenders, male: Connecticut__________ Massachusetts New Jersey_______ ___ N ew York North Carolina_______ Pennsylvania____ Rhode Island_________ South Carolina_______ 55.0 48.2 52.3 49.3 53.8 51.9 53.6 0) 60 1 1 49. 5 5 64 26 5 16 8 28 0) 3 73 5 3 5 8 3 8 4 7 1 Over 55, un der 60 11 1 50.8 55 0) 19 1 51.6 313 54 1 6 19 8 2 23 38 0) 470 26 Over 50, un der 54 12 187 59 Total........................- 2 1 50 3 Mangle tenders, female: N ew York Sewers, male: Connecticut Massachusetts New J e r s e y ..____ ___ New York North Carolina. _____ Pennsylvania________ Rhode Island South Carolina Over 48, un der 50 28 4 7 17 8 10 10 5 57 5 5 12 93 21 8 1 2 3 24 6 3 48 33 2 9 53 72 108 6 2 2 28 5 23 15 67 67 8 13 7 2 5 (0 1 2 1 10 2 46 0) 17 38 3 6 5 2 4 2 54 52 4 3 6 1 5 1 12 6 4 1 74 3 19 6 20 2 0) 2 20 22 8 1 36 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 T a b l e C . — Average and classified full-time hours per week in 12 specified occupa tions, 1982, by sex and State— Continued N um ber of Occupation, sex, and State estab lish ments N um ber of wage earn ers Aver age full time hours per week Number of wage earners whose full-time hours per week were— Un der 48 48 Over 48, un der 50 50 Over 50, un der 54 Sewers, female: Connecticut. . ___ Massachusetts________ N ew Jersey___________ N ew Y ork____________ North Carolina_______ Pp.nnsylva.nia ___ ■Rhndft Island _ ___ South Carolina . , 2 6 13 6 7 5 8 3 12 70 76 13 129 10 30 20 52.9 47.8 48.5 48.2 54.8 51.5 51.2 55.0 T otal........................... 50 360 51.4 4 7 17 10 10 7 10 4 22 146 452 69 54 38 123 66 54.5 50.0 50.8 49.1 53.0 53.3 53.4 55.8 69 970 51.5 1 3 1 2 2 0) 32 (V 14 (0 48.6 (0 53.9 51.4 4 4 22 13 10 3 141 150 20 2 18 4 35 15 10 14 1 31 6 9 9 320 20 79 2 2 80 207 11 3 21 9 3 6 7 8 3 16 36 18 T e n te r-fra m e t e n d e r s , male: M assachusetts ___ N ew Jersey___________ North Carolina ... ___ Rhode Tslaiid . .. .. T otal_______________ Tenter-frame tenders, fe male: Connecticut____ _____ N ew Jersey __ _ N ew Y ork____________ Pennsylvania - _____ Rhode Island_________ 5 5 1 1 65 65 7 6 5 13 4 5 4 19 142 10 14 3 28 150 79 326 13 5 26 2 45 8 24 25 5 5 1 17 20 12 3 31 109 60 Over 60 123 54.3 48.8 49.6 48.8 54.3 53.4 53.5 55.0 Total_______________ 62 750 51.2 3 6 15 8 11 7 10 5 29 85 295 41 36 22 98 54 53.4 48.2 51.1 48.9 54.2 52.1 52.1 55.2 65 660 51.4 . 4 91 56.3 1 8 4 0) 270 66 0) 53.8 52.6 8 13 344 53.4 8 1 12 15 17 313 0) 28 34 24 1 80 5 98 123 5 4 7 10 4 17 5 20 25 12 2 2 14 10 97 23 7 3 4 54 66 2 13 69 2 3 9 31 78 189 21 3 2 10 20 2 6 47 12 2 1 61 26 1 10 52 72 117 51 67 24 204 66 66 21 0) 58 8 10 63 24 2 6 56 10 0) 29 188 199 51 82 41 91 69 1 22 2 7 13 8 11 8 9 4 1 Data included in total. 6 1 434 50.5 T o t a l .____________ 4 16 75 Y a m winders, female: N ew Jersey___________ North Carolina_______ Pennsylvania_________ 5 16 9 Yarn winders, male: North C a r o lin a .____ 2 1 5 Over 55, un der 60 7 2 7 Total_______________ T otal_______________ 55 20 Truckers, male: Connecticut__________ Massachusetts __ N ew Jersey— _______ N ew York North Carolina_______ Pennsylvania__ ______ R hode Island ______ South Carolina. ____ Washer tenders, male: Connecticut _______ M assachusetts.. ___ N ew Jersey___________ N ew York . .. _ N orth Carolina. __ Pennsylvania_________ Rhode Island_________ South Carolina_______ 54 58 204 2 12 T a b le D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State Occupation, sex, and State 44.8 52.9 53.1 41.9 50.9 55.1 45 *> 57.8 49.8 5 8 18 8 18 12 10 4 15 100 221 57 47 38 102 47 61.0 54.9 54.1 51.4 51.5 48.7 51.7 59.7 _______________ 1 1 3 1 1 8 6 20 52 24 29 63 4 1 2 4 2 1 1 3 5 1 1 2 3 2 4 1 6 1 2 2 9 5 9 2 4 10 1 I 4 4 1 1 6 1 2 2 2 2 4 4 1 4 21 5 3 3 8 2 11 14 17 26 16 24 47 1 2 16 3 20 16 7 4 1 8 4 6 31.4 2 9 11 6 1 1 1 2 1 T otal__________________ 6 1 1 4 8 3 44, un der 48 2 2 13 3 2 10 7 2 18 1 2 U 1 40, un der 44 1 2 1 1 3 36, un der 40 11 29.5 40.0 53.6 1 32, un der 36 3 7 627 28, un der 32 7 7 81 24, un der 28 1 2 T otal................................ Drier tenders, female: N ew Jersey_____________ N ew Y ork .......................... 20, un der 24 6 4 ..... 6 1 1 48 11 Over 52, 48, un un der der 54 52 5 8 3 1 8 3 2 3 2 54 1 12 4 4 Z 1 1 3 23 33 15 4 1 2 1 2 4 6 3 6 ..... 3 9 15 7 6 1 13 9 51 24 1 2 1 2 5 3 1 1 9 Over 54, 58, un un der der 60 58 60 12 13 9 2 15 3 5 13 1 12 4 1 2 1 2 3 3 9 3 72 26 16 4 22 25 4 7 4 4 3 3 13 32 6 2 4 6 6 1 4 4 73 71 18 1 Over 60, 65, un un der der 70 65 7 4 6 70, 80 un and der over 80 11 7 1 3 1 2 4 19 8 7 2 1 2 12 3 2 1 2 1 42 35 23 6 3 2 g 10 15 19 5 2 5 7 4 5 "ii” 8 10 2 9 32 6 57 67 55 'l 11 6 1 5 6 2 1 16 LABOR 507 Total 16, un der 20 OF 72 Drier tenders, male: Connecticut_____________ Massachusetts__________ N ew Jersey_____________ N ew Y ork _______________ N orth Carolina_________ Pennsylvania______ _____ R hode Island___________ South Carolina__________ 1 1 12, un der 16 HOURS 45 111 76 82 35 20 104 54 8, un der 12 AND 3 8 17 10 11 8 10 5 Number of wage earners whose hours actually worked in 1 week were— WAGES Calender tenders, male: Connecticut_____________ Massachusetts__________ N ew Jersey_____________ N ew Y o r k ______________ N orth Carolina__________ Pennsylvania___________ Rhode Island___________ South Carolina__________ Aver age ber of ber of hours estab wage actually Un 4, lish earn worked der un ments ers in 1 der 4 week 8 3 2 1 4 1 3 00 T a b le D.— Average and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, T>y sex and State—Continued Occupation, sex, and State 53.3 50.1 51.5 51.5 48.8 44. 5 45. 5 55. 5 1 1 1,393 49.7 3 8 7 6 13 8 10 4 11 90 50 35 57 24 99 39 57.3 45.3 56.4 38.7 48.8 47.6 48.3 59.8 1 3 5 1 14 1 2 6 1 25 20, un der 24 4 16 13 2 2 3 7 6 10 10 1 21 28 46 10 2 3 3 1 3 3 2* 12 2 1 1 3 1 28, un der 32 32, un der 36 9 16 2 9 4 9 14 10 15 2 2 7 15 38 51 1 7 3 3 8 8 5 5 2 6 4 16 2 6 33 6 4 19 14 2 5 14 82 2 13 10 33 5 5 1 2 1 31 98 16 17 18 17 10 54 86 159 14 207 71 5 1 1 1 3 5 5 2 7 4 3 1 2 2 1 7 2 9 13 12 3 8 1 1 10 3 11 1 9 1 6 1 5 8 1 38 —... 13 12 26 16 24 34 12 2 2 1 13 16 7 3 10 7 7 3 2 2 1 7 3 1 1 (0 1 7 3 21 2 4 3 2 8 10 5 37 27 2 3 10 1 5 5 2 39 54 0) 66 27 10 38.5 35.2 0) 39.9 39.9 52.6 T otal................................ 26 198 38.9 5 5 1 1 7 1 2 2 48 11 49.2 2 6 42 6 3 9 44, un der 48 14 405 54 40, un der 44 17 59 Over 52, 48, un un der der 54 52 36, un der 40 5 T otal__________________ Folders, female: M assachusetts__________ N ew Jersey _ _________ N ew Y o r k . __________ N orth Carolina__________ R hode Island___________ South Carolina ____ 6 24, un der 28 13 17 15 7 Over 54, 58, un un der der 60 58 4 16 82 20 18 26 2 8 8 1 37 2 4 6 6 2 16 176 66 1 4 4 11 2 12 3 ...... —... 60 Over 60, 65, un un der der 70 65 70, 80 un and der over 80 1 6 45 -- 6 1 6 9 39 12 2 22 8 8 7 14 6 1 12 17 106 86 104 1 1 14 1 1 3 13 2 "T i 1 10 78 ..... 1 2 - 4 27 1 5 1 9 10 4 4 9 3 9 8 1 2 2 1 7 31 11 63 24 12 34 12 18 1 5 1 1 1 7 1 6 4 4 2 5 19 12 6 1 18 2 18 2 OF TEXTILES, 1932 80 Folders, male: Connecticut__ ___________ M assachusetts__________ N ew Jersey ____________ ‘ N ew Y o r k ______________ North Carolina__________ Pennsylvania __________ R hode Island __________ South Carolina__________ 1 16, un der 20 FINISHING 38 132 658 71 94 181 175 44 12, un der 16 AND T otal__ - _____________ 3 7 18 9 18 12 10 3 Number of wage earners whose hours actually worked in 1 week were— DYEING D yeing-m achine tenders, male: Connecticut_____________ M assachusetts__________ N ew Jersey______________ N ew Y ork __________ N orth Carolina__________ Pennsylvania _______ R hode Island __________ South Carolina__________ Aver N um N um age ber of ber of hours estab wage actually Un 4, 8, un un lish earn worked der der der in 1 ments ers 4 12 8 week Inspectors, male: Connecticut........ M assachusetts.. N ew Jersey......... New Y o r k .......... N orth Carolina . Pennsylvania. _. Rhode I s la n d ... South C arolin aT ota l. 48.0 0) 23 0) 41.6 38.0 39.8 47.2 52.6 51.0 50.0 15 43 131 49.6 49.3 52.3 41.7 54.9 49.1 52.7 59.4 52.5 57.0 50.0 50.5 52.5 69.2 54.5 6L5 26 55.2 33 0) ... ... 11 3 5 12 * 65 16 27 26 13 28 15 1 4 3 10 19 7 5 2 15 1 11 2 13 17 20 12" 2 29 5 11 10 1 12 10 1 1 2 1 13 44 1 2 10 17 14 23 1 1 13 2 1 1 27 35 2 2 5 6 15 3 10 62 49 19 62 7 25 1 1 4 10 18 3 10 2 1 10 7 7 33 34 2 18 10 1 81 14 12 1 14 LABOR Printing - machine tenders, male: Connecticut...................... . Massachusetts................... N ew Jersey.............. ......... N ew Y ork .............. ........... North C arolina-............. . Pennsylvania____ ______ R hode Island____ ______ South Carolina.................. 51.5 22 1 7 12 3 7 5 9 OF 44.5 27 8 22 HOURS 186 470 T otal- Total _ 337 15 2 1 1 3 AND T o ta l. Mangle tenders., male: Connecticut............... Massachusetts.......... N ew Jersey................ N ew Y o rk ............ . N orth Carolina_____ Pennsylvania............ Rhode Island............ South Carolina_____ 50.2 48.8 47.6 44.1 46.3 52.6 44.4 60.2 WAGES Inspectors, female: Connecticut____ Massachusetts ._ New Jersey......... N ew Y ork ______ North Carolina. Pennsylvania__ Rhode I s la n d ... South C arolin a- 3 50 158 24 34 27 29 12 10 8 8 17 27 1 For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in totaL CO CO T a b l e D . — Average Occupation, sex, and State and classified hours actually worked in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued Number of wage earners whose hours actually worked in 1 week were— 8, un der 12 12, un der 16 16, un der 20 5 64 26 5 16 8 28 0) 48.0 51.0 52.8 45.4 49.2 58.4 56.4 0) 1 3 39 164 52.2 2 6 13 6 7 5 8 3 12 70 76 13 129 10 30 20 40.9 39.3 42.8 36.9 52.6 49.5 40.5 54.4 T otal__________________ 60 360 46.0 Tenter-frame tenders, male: Connecticut_____________ Massachusetts___________ N ew Jersey______________ N ew Y ork_______________ N orth C a r o lin a _________ P en n sy lv a n ia __________ Rhode Island____________ Smith nftrolinfl. _ _ _ _ 4 7 17 10 10 7 10 4 22 146 452 69 54 38 123 66 65.9 55.2 51.9 50.5 47.0 58.9 50.9 64.5 T otal................................ 69 970 53.3 32, un der 36 36, un der 40 40, un der 44 44, un der 48 48 2 4 4 11 2 •10 3 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 3 1 4 3 2 1 1 16 3 1 3 1 23 1 3 3 2 5 7 3 1 18 8 2 1 1 2 8 i" 7 26 36 25 18 3 25 4 6 5 8 13 75 9 8 3 10 2 75 51 118 80 4 2 2 3 9 12 33 6 1 2 1 2 3 1 3 4 2 1 1 1 6 8 4 1 2 1 1 8 4 3 4 6 16 1 1 11 6 19 23 1 3 40 1 8 1 54 1 3 7 1 6 1 2 4 2 7 1 2 2 2 0) 11 4 1 1 5 1 1 2 1 1 6 1 2 2 1 Over 52, 48, un un der der 54 52 2 17 54 Over 58, 54, un un der der 60 58 2 3 3 4 1 5 5 60 8 Over 65, 60, un un der der 70 65 5 1 1 4 5 1 6 1 1 1 7 4 20 11 18 2 92 114 2 2 1 9 7 1 3 26 2 1 1 1 8 1 28 2 1 0) 10 9 70, 80 un and der over 80 4 1 2 1 2 6 2 2 14 6 1 1 2 5 16 1 -- 2 12 4 21 5 1 3 3 1 3 6 1 47 7 11 1 10 39 24 6 3 18 1 5 5 1 2 1 2 4 23 2 1 1 3 28 15 7 20 2 3 9 102 16 31 87 2 3 1 3 1 3 10 45 5 4 10 40 ‘ 3 11 1 3 14 33 2 1 8 18 17 10 20 "“T 6 9 4 45 96 96 80 15 4 3 5 1 2 OF TEXTILES, 1932 T otal__________________ Sewers, female: Connecticut_____________ Massachusetts ________ N ew Jersey ____________ __________ N ew York N orth Carolina__________ Pennsylvania _________ ________ Rhode Island South Carolina__________ 28, un der 32 FINISHING 3 5 8 3 8 4 7 1 24, un der 28 AND Sewers, male: C on n ecticu t....... .......... Massachusetts___________ New J rsey______________ N ew Y ork _______________ N orth Carolina__________ Pennsylvania________1___ R hode Island____________ South Carolina__________ 20, un der 24 DYEING A ver N um N um age ber of ber of hours estab wage actually U n 4, lish earn worked der un der ments in 1 ers 4 week 8 Tenter-frame tenders, female: Connecticut............... New Jersey............ ........ New Y ork____________ Pennsylvania_________ Rhode Island................. 53.2 47.1 31.0 41.4 46.6 10 43.8 Total........................... 29 188 199 51 82 41 91 62 51.2 29 85 295 41 36 98 54 51.4 53.0 51.2 45.3 50.7 54.3 50.2 61.1 22 65 ~T 1 28 3 13 1 5 37 9 3 3 11 21 9 2 5 6 4 2 6 19 5 2 1 6 1 61 42 8 270 31.6 39.4 40.1 18 2 12 66 344 39.3 20 16 25 15 * For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total. 4 1 21 8 3 13 2 18 2 27 18 20 39 3 14 1 4 22 10 2 14 3 17 6 81 12 19 6 2 105 12 2 5 8 18 57 23 7 9 16 2 8 11 10 55 12 2 1 31 1 5 10 50 82 2 14 24 47 9 84 38 56 LABOR 32.1 41 5 9 13 15 32 1 11 ~~ ~ 10 121 ”12" 1 17 14 2 13 5 OF 91 14 10 18 16 3 30 3 2 47 34 10 16 4 5 3 67 1 Yarn winders, female: New Jersey..................... N orth Carolina.............. Pennsylvania_________ 3 1 53 3 2 ’ io" 51.8 13 25 8 11 2 2 660 T otal_______________ 14 5 1 8 Yarn winders, male: N orth Carolina............ T o t a l - ........................ 2 12 19 4 HOURS 750 21 AND Washer tenders, male: Connecticut................... Massachusetts.............. N ew J e rs e y .................. N ew Y ork ____________ North Carolina............. Pennsylvania................ Rhode Island................ South Carolina........... . 50.7 51.9 49.0 47.3 48.5 56.9 49.6 60.5 11 WAGES Truckers, male: C onnecticut................... Massachusetts________ New Jersey___________ New Y ork...................... North Carolina............ Pennsylvania................ Rhode Island................ South Carolina............. T otal....... .................... 11 T a b le E«— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State Occupation, sex, and State Total Total Drier tenders, female: N ew Jersey N ew York T ota l...................................... Dyeing-machine tenders, male*. Connecticut _ __ Massachusetts N ew Jersey N ew York North Carolina Pennsylvania....................... . 72 507 19.06 1 1 5 8 18 g 16 12 10 4 15 100 221 57 47 38 102 47 23.88 18.23 23. 36 19.69 13.29 21.72 19.65 14.42 _2_ 81 627 20.09 1 1 13 3 2 3 7 18 9 18 12 1 1 1 1 1 3 6 2 4 I 6 4 1 5 3 3 5 15 24 1 1 2 1 3 7 3 4 2 7 7 8.39 8.93 2 16 8.50 2 38 132 658 71 94 181 22.29 16.55 22.61 19.94 12.95 22.09 1 10 1 5 3 3 1 2 1 7 8 12 28 1 14 4 13 17 8 6 13 1 _____ ” 2 15 8 13 18 4 17 13 4 1 1 6 6 6 12 10 2 1 3 6 3 2 8 4 2 1 1 14 67 43 32 3 10 77 68 52 1 13 4 8 6 6 5 8 1 24 22 4 3 4 12 5 2 17 33 5 4 3 21 1 51 75 5 8 32 12 11 17 6 13 72 13 5 26 3 7 1 5 3 3 4 4 3 11 13 2 2 5 1 2 1 5 1 15 9 14 1 4 7 4 7 14 19 17 26 55 51 3 4 3 1 2 1 3 7 1 2 1 9 17 17 16 2 10 " 21’ 3 4 31 14 1 14 6 2 10 17 6 17 14 1 5 7 2 6 3 1 7 14 16 5 8 5 5 1 2 4 6 11 1 3 11 " T 1 12 41 26 19 1 18 2 1 13 4 22 1 5 10 1 5 11 1 2 86 53 68 27 7 18 108 9 2 15 7 17 103 15 3 10 2 6 81 2 1 21 1 4 3 1 1 34 ’ 50' 33 10 9 2 4 3 2 1 $40, un der $45 $45, un der $50 $50, un der $60 $60, $75, $100 un un and der der over $75 $100 ____ 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 10 5 2 2 33 20 3 1 2 14 13 1 6 12 2 19 3 1 7 "T 1 15 23 8 $38, un der $40 5 3 = = 1 4 44 4 28 $36, un der $38 1 7 2 7 1 6 5 $34, un der $36 10 6 4 2 OF TEXTILES, 1932 Drier tenders, male: C onnecticut Massachusetts N ew Jersey N ew Y ork N orth Carolina Pennsylvania________________ R hode Island South Carolina 45 $20.48 111 17.91 76 23.49 62 17.35 35 14.45 20 23.43 104 19.84 54 15.83 $8, $10, $12, $14, $16, $18, $20, $22, $24, $26, $28, $30, $32, un un un un un un un un un un un un un der der der der der der der der der der der der der $10 $12 $14 $16 $18 $20 $22 $24 $26 $28 $30 $32 $34 FINISHING Pennsylvania R hode Island South Carolina 3 8 17 10 11 8 10 5 N um ber of wage earners whose earnings in 1 week were— AND N ew Jersey__________________ A ver N^Tn- age ber of actual wage earn Un $4, •$6, ings der un un earn der der in 1 ers week $4 $6 $8 DYEING Calender tenders, male: N um ber of estab lish ments 1 ____ Rhode Island-. South Carolina- 10 T otal.............. 80 175 44 20.15 14.78 1,393 20.61 Folders, male: Connecticut___ Massachusetts _ N ew Jersey____ N ew Y ork _____ North Carolina. P ennsylvania.. Rhode Island. . South Carolina. 405 104 24.47 20.86 14.72 0) 7.60 14.20 8.64 3 50 158 24 34 27 29 12 21.52 15.69 21.77 17.19 12.42 23.57 22.60 15.69 T otal.............. 6 32 23 0) 23 24 186 2 ~y 0) 9.91 12.78 11.96 10.08 18.32 13.08 7.76 11.06 * For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total. 13 4 3 1 28 0) 11 4 9 13 2 16 1 2 1 5 4 1 2 1 3 1 3 60 61 2 7 14 1 12 49 1 4 32 1 16 5 1 13 1 12 19 15 1 12 2 29 36 12~ 22 33 16 15 1 13 2 10 6 24 3 4 2 1 18 12 120 12 11 20 174 "Y "T 3 19.60 Inspectors, female: Connecticut___ Massachusetts . N ew Jersey____ N ew Y ork_____ N orth Carolina. Pennsylvania. _ R hode Island. . South Carolina- 32 147 13 11 20 17 1 3 17 5 3 1 3 3 2 1 ’T 3 1 45 33 47 31 24 20 LABOR 13.14 18 106 43 3 6 20 (*) 2 11 1 OF 198 23 19 9 HOTTRS 26 17 2 5 15 1 3 29 12 AND <0 Inspectors, male: Connecticut___ Massachusetts. New Jersey___ New Y ork _____ North Carolina Pennsylvania . . Rhode Isla n d -. South Carolina. 77 14 17 WAGES T otal.............. T otal.............. 45 10 33.00 21.61 34.57 20.62 15.61 20.77 24.42 28.40 Folders, female: Massachusetts. New Jersey____ N ew Y ork ......... North Carolina. Rhode Island. . South Carolina. T otal.............. 18 17 3 T a b le E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in 12 specified occupations, 1982, by sex and State— Continued Occupation, sex, and State T otal..................................... 18.86 62 72 39 56. 23 5 64 26 5 16 8 28 0) 19.00 14. 51 23.02 20.15 11.36 22.60 0) $60, un der $75 $75, $100 un and der $100 over 4 2 17 10 20.02 17. 32 $50, un der $60 22 61.71 25. 62 313 $45, un der $50 25 102. 00 Sewers, male: Connecticut......... ................ . Massachusetts........................ N ew Jersey--------------- ---------New Y o rk ........ ....................... North Carolina....................... Pennsylvania.......................... R hode Island....................... . South Carolina....................... Total.................................. 57 51.21 60. 59 53. 45 66. 05 17. 31 26 $40, un der $45 OF T otal.................................... I $34, $36, un un der der $36 (0 28 55 10 TEXTILES, 1932 Printing-machine tenders, male: Connecticut________________ Massachusetts________ ____ New Jersey________________ New Y o rk ____________ 1___ North Carolina____________ Pennsylvania___ __________ Rhode Island______________ South Carolina_____________ $28, $30, $32, un un un un der der der der $28 $30 $32 $34 FINISHING 15 $22. 21 43 15.79 131 22.37 69 16.26 49 14.95 15 21. 02 93 20.67 55 15.08 $10, $12, $14, $16, $18, $20, $22, $24, $4, un un un un un un un un un un un der der der der der der der der der der der $6 $8 $10 $12 $14 $16 $18 $20 $22 $24 $26 AND Mangle tenders, male: Connecticut........... ................ . Massachusetts.......... ........... . New Jersey________________ New Y o r k .......... .................... North Carolina....................... Pennsylvania__ ___________ R hode Island....................... . South Carolina_____________ Num ber of wage earners whose earnings in 1 week were— DYEING Aver N um N um age ber of ber of actual estab wage earn U n lish earn ings der ments in 1 ers week $4 177409°—83- 12 70 76 13 129 10 30 20 12.64 9.59 14.13 12.21 13.28 16.60 13.58 12.06 T otal................ 50 360 4 7 17 10 10 7 10 4 Tenter-frame tenders, male: Connecticut___________ Massachusetts................ N ew Jersey..................... N ew Y ork ....................... N orth Carolina.............. Pennsylvania........ ......... R hode Island.................. South Carolina............. T otal. 3 27 8 5 23 2 6 3 3 19 I 1 1 5 6 5 3 17 21 14 3 29 ~~Z1 " i r 4 2 1 2 5 4 11 1 _ _ 1 2 2 1 2 1 8 7 12.73 3 6 27 69 48 73 70 22 146 452 69 54 38 123 66 29.78 17.65 22.33 19.10 12.73 25.23 20.63 16.80 _ 3 2 3 4 1 4 5 2 1 1 9 8 4 3 17 1 25 19 10 12 _ 1 1 2 4 1 5 5 1 12 1 5 7 69 970 20.55 7 6 7 21 29 44 1 3 1 2 2 5 32 13 11 14 23.30 15.41 7.44 13.00 14.09 9 75 13.95 2 7 13 8 11 8 9 4 29 188 199 51 82 41 91 69 21.82 16.32 21.00 17.52 11.43 21.20 17.88 14.24 62 750 17.58 1 1 7 9 7 2 2 1 1 2 1 2 5 2 9 9 __ __ 9 T 1 6 1 4 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 36 13 8 7 4 32 48 16 2 1 12 18 15 60 12 2 6 13 14 33 124 10 3 5 25 5 88 129 122 4 10 2 4 3 3 14 45 3 5 2 30 3 1 8 1 1 2 3 27 2 24 1 28 1 17 2 6 1 1 5 1 3 14 1 7 14 1 2 6 1 5 3 1 3 3 2 1 1 1 3 2 1 205 83 62 41 34 36 30 9 3 10 4 4 1 1 8 4 4 1 5 1 1 2 1 6 2 6 2 1 1 5 2 8 5 6 6 10 10 8 5 1 4 2 11 3 6 23 1 6 6 30 6 11 8 1 4 25 3 30 13 4 10 4 7 22 3 67 21 5 8 4 12 8 3 20 38 5 3 3 15 4 8 11 40 9 2 4 16 5 3 13 10 4 7 15 1 1 2 13 10 5 10 5 4 1 2 5 4 1 56 85 93 128 91 90 46 37 23 15 8 ” 13* 3 1 6 2 1 16 1 30 4 4 2 6 LABOR T otal. 20 4 OP T otal. Trackers, male: Connecticut........ M assachusetts.. N ew Jersey........ N ew Y ork ........ . N orth Carolina. Pennsylvania.._ R hode Island. _ _ South Carolina.. 1 2 HOURS Tenter-frame tenders, female: Connecticut______________ N ew Jersey.......................... N ew Y ork ............................ Pennsylvania..................... . R hode Island............ .......... 1 2 AND 2 6 13 6 7 5 8 3 WAGES Sewers, female: Connecticut____ Massachusetts - . N ew Jersey_____ N ew Y ork ______ N orth Carolina. Pennsylvania.. _ R hode Isla n d .. . South C arolina- 1 5 1 2 1 For less than 3 employees in 1 establishment, data included in total. Cm T a b le E.— Average and classified actual earnings in 1 week in IS specified occupations, 1932, by sex and State— Continued Occupation, sex, and State $14, $16, $18, un un un der der der $16 $18 $20 $20, $22, un der $22 un der $24 $24, $26, $28, un un un der der der $30 $26 19.58 11.08 16 8 270 7.73 9.85 12.41 24 10.29 24 27 17 10 62 71 91 12 13 43 54 57 55 19 24 13 54 51 32 $38, un der $40 $40, un der $45 $45, un der $50 $50, un der $60 $60, $75, $100 un un and der der over $75 $100 19 26 OF TEXTILES, 1932 91 13 $34, un der FINISHING $12 $8 un der $14 AND T otal.................. un der $22.02 16.37 22.35 16.83 12.56 24.89 18.52 14.67 T ota l.............. . Y a m winders, female: N ew Jersey.......... N orth C arolina.. Pennsylvania___ $10, $12, $«, un der DYEING Washer tenders, male Connecticut_____ M assachusetts.. _ N ew Jersey.......... N ew Y ork ............ N orth Carolina __ Pennsylvania___ R hode Island___ South C a r o lin a - Yarn winders, male: N orth C arolina... Num ber of wage earners whose earnings in 1 week were— Aver N um N um age ber of ber of actual estab wage earn Un lish earn ings der in i ments ers week $4 A p p e n d i x . —Factory Occupational Terms, and Definitions and Classification by Bureau of Labor Statistics Acid man. (See Acid-strength inspector.) Classified as: Other employees. Acid mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Acid-pump man supervises operation of pumps which force various chemical solutions through pipes to bleaching, weighting, and boil-off departments. Classified as: Other employees. Acid-strength inspector checks strength of acid used in vats in which cloth is treated during process of bleaching; also sees that automatic controls in these vats are working properly. Classified as: Other employees. Adding-machine operator, cloth room, adds yardage and weights of various pieces of cloth that go to make up bales or boxes of cloth for shipment, as they are called by weighman, cloth, or yardage caller. Totals are used for invoices and office records. Classified as: Other employees. Ager boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Ager box tender. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders. Ager tender tends ager machine, which is used for treating cloth with steam or ammonia when only a short period is necessary for developing and fixing dye or mordant used for setting color. It consists of an iron compartment with a series of guide rollers near top and bottom. Cloth is lead in open width through a slit near top at front end, passes to back end and down around guide rollers to front again, where it emerges through the same slit but underneath the going-in end, and is delivered on truck. Tender watches to see that cloth is feeding in evenly, sews new pieces on as truck empties and rips them apart when a truck load of steamed cloth is plaited down; starts and stops, oils and cleans machine, and regulates steam or ammonia fumes. Classified as: Ager tenders. Ammonia box man. (See Ammonia solution preparer.) Classified as: Other employees. Ammonia solution preparer prepares ammonia solution used in special apparatus or machine for developing and “ fixing” certain colors in cloth. Classified as: Other employees. Aniline-dye ager operator. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders. Ash kier boiler. (See Kier boiler.) Classified as: Kier boilers. Assistant foreman performs supervisory work under direction of foreman, and does some productive work, such as adjusting machines, inspecting work, etc. Classified as: Other employees. Assistant second hand. (See Assistant foreman.) Classified as: Other em ployees. As sorter, cloth stock, takes cuts of cloth, after they have been properly ticketed, and sorts them by styles on platforms or racks. When required number of pieces of a given style have been accumulated, assorter puts them on truck and takes them to shipping room. Classified as: Other employees. Back folder. (See Back lapper.) Classified as: Other employees. Back gray tender tends back part of printing machine, looking specifically after gray cloths. See also Back tender, printing. Classified as: Back tenders, printing. Back lapper takes bolt of folded cloth after it has been doubled or wound, un winds it a little, turns end in, and winds it up so as to give a neat appearance to fold or bolt. It is then ready for bander. Classified as: Other employees. Back man, cloth drier. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers. Backfiller guides flow of cloth through starch mangle in special manner; when it is desired to starch cloth on only one side, it is not immersed in starch but is run over surface of roller which revolves partly immersed in starch. This is called “ back filling.” See also Mangle tender. Classified as: Mangle tenders. Back tender, dyeing machine, works at rear of dyeing machine to see that cloth comes from machine properly. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. 47 48 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Back tender, printing, tends back part of printing machine looking after supply of cloth, using a small portable sewing machine to sew on a new piece of white when one batch is about run out, so as to keep a continuous run. Also looks after gray cloths, if there is no back gray tender, as well as after the color in the back boxes, if there is no color boy; keeps steam up in dry cans; and assists printer in pitching pattern when machine is being prepared for a new pattern. When machine is stopped at night or to change patterns, he takes down doctor and color boxes and washes copper rollers off thoroughly with a hose and brush. All color must be removed from rollers lest it harden and cause defective work. Classified as: Back tenders, printing. Back tender, soaping machine, works at rear of soaping machine to see that cloth comes from machine properly. See also Soaper tender. Classified as: Soaper tenders. Back tender, tenter frame, works at rear of tentering frame to see that cloth comes from frame properly. See also Tenter-frame tender. Classified as: Tenterframe tenders. Backer and bander, cloth, uses specially designed sheets of paper as covering or backing for some cuts of cloth when folding it for trade, and ties band of ribbon or decorative cord around to hold same in place. Classified as: Folders. Bag washer, color straining, washes cloth bags, used by color strainer in colormixing room, to remove colors and foreign substances from them. Classified as: Other employees. Bagging salvager. (See Salvager, bagging.) Classified as: Other employees. Bale marker. (See Stenciler.) Classified as: Other employees. Bale opener, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers. Baler, cloth, operates press, hydraulic or toggle joint, to bale cloth. A piece of burlap is cut to right size and laid on base and over it is placed a piece of paper if the latter is used. Required number of cuts of cloth are piled on these and on top of them is placed more paper and another piece of burlap. Press is then started and run until bale is compressed to proper size, when burlap is spread over sides and ends and sewed together by hand. Metal tie bands or ropes are put through grooves of press and fastened tightly around bale. Press is released and bale trucked away. In some plants the worker merely bands the bale in the press and sews the heads on it after it is taken out on the floor. Classified as: Balers. Bander, cloth, bolts, pastes 2 specially prepared strips or bands of paper around each bolt of cloth, 1 near each end, for decorative purposes, as well as to hold folds of cloth in shape. Classified as: Other employees. Basket man. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Batcher boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Batcher, cloth winder, operates machine used for winding any length of cloth around a roller. It consists of two large cloth-covered rollers, set in same horizontal plane and geared to run together, with guide * rn at each end and wooden slats over which cloth is drawn to give it tension. Some machines have a sprinkling device to dampen the cloth while being wound. Winder threads cloth through tension slats and starts end around wooden roller, puts pin through roller, places it in position and starts machine, watches to see that there are no creases in cloth and that selvages are winding straight. Winding machines are found in several sections of plant, wherever there is need to wind cloth for bleaching, dyeing, or printing. Classified as: Batchers, cloth winders. Bath mixer looks after mixing chemicals used in bleaching; sees that they are properly prepared and are of correct strength for work to be done. Uses block and fall to handle large drums of caustic. Care must be exercised to avoid danger from burns or fumes, chlorine being especially dangerous; how ever, workers are protected by ventilating system. Classified as: Bath mixers. Beam dyer, yarn, operates dye vat into which specially devised, perforated, hol low beam with yarn coiled around it is lowered and dye liquor pumped through beam and yarn until properly dyed. Classified as: Other employees. Beamer tender runs a beamer or beaming frame, restoring warp which was made into a chain on ball warper to its original sheet-like form, and winding it into layers on a beam after dyeing. Lease strings which were inserted between warp threads enable operators to lay them in same order as when on warper. Machine consists of two uprights which support section beam, an expansion comb like that on warper, and a swinging comb supported by straps. Tender APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 49 stands with one foot on operating treadle, holds swinging comb in one hand, and has his eyes fixed on expansion comb. As soon as an end ceases to come through a dent in comb, he must stop machine, find ends and tie them up, and if one end is missing, supply yarn from a bobbin kept on hand for that purpose. If yarn is tangled, he knows it by the pull on swinging comb and so can stop machine before ends break. Beamer tenders set up empty beams in their frames and take down full ones. When a warp is about all beamed, the end is tied to end of a new one so as to keep a continuous run. Each new warp, however, must be threaded in combs. Tender usually oils and cleans his machine. Classified as: Other employees. Beck-dyeing-machine operator. (,See Spiral dye-beck tender.) Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Beetle-machine operator operates a machine designed to give cloth a special finish as it passes into machine over wooden rollers where it is beaten by wooden hammers called “ beetle sticks” , which are operated by this machine. This finish gives to cotton cloth an appearance almost like that of satin. Classified as: Other employees. Bias cloth cutter operates cutting device to cut special cloth into bias strips of specified lengths and widths. These strips are rolled up and sold in this form. Classified as: Other employees. Bin changer, cloth, watches cloth being drawn by machine out of bins, and at taches end of cloth from bin being emptied to end of cloth in full bin, to make continuous run of any length desired. Classified as: Other employees. Bin packer, cloth, packs cloth in specially prepared bins after it comes from vari ous bleaching operations. Classified as: Other employees. Bleacher boss, working. {See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Block engraver operates routing machine and uses special graving instrument by hand to cut away parts of surface so as to produce or engrave a raised design on wood block used in block-printing cloth. Classified as: Other employees. Block printer uses a wooden block with a raised design on surface to print cloth by hand. Designs are colored by use of a color pad. Classified as: Other employees. Blow-machine foremant working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Blow-machine man, starch spraying, operates a blow-type machine which uses compressed air to spray specially prepared starch or finish on cloth with a series of nozzles as the cloth enters mangle. Classified as: Other employees. Blue-ager tender. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders. Board winder, cloth. (See Winder, cloth, bolts.) Classified as: Other employees. Boil-off man, cloth. (See Kier boiler.) Classified as: Kier boilers. Boil-off man, skein yarn, strings skeins of yarn on a pole which is then placed over a vat so that skeins hang in boil-off solution. Classified as: Other em ployees. Boil-off winder, cloth. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers, cloth winders. Boilermaker works on kiers and metal tubs keeping them in repair and in safe and proper working condition. Classified as: Other employees. Bolt labeler. (See Ticketer; also Label sewer.) Classified as: Other employees. Bolt winder, cloth. (See Winder, cloth, bolts.) Classified as: Other employees. Book folder. (See Folder, cloth, hand.) Classified as: Folders. Booker, cloth, keeps record of cloth, recording style and yardage that goes into make-up of each bale or box for shipment, as it is called by weighman, cloth, or yardage caller. Classified as: Other employees. Bookmaker, samples. (See Sample maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Boss laborer, working. (See Straw boss.) Classified as: Other employees. Boss workman. (See Working foreman; also Straw boss.) Classified as: Other employees. Box-machine tender, dyeing. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing; also Box tender, warp boiling. Classified as: Other employees. Box maker uses nails and hammer or nailing machine to construct wooden ship ping cases from lumber stock, or assembles knocked-down parts purchased from mills which specialize in these parts. See also Sawyer, shipping-case parts. Classified as: Other employees. Box pusher. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Box tender, warp boiling, operates box-like apparatus or container used for boiling warp or chain yarn and washing it after dyeing and may also be used for dye ing it. When filled with water or dye, yarn passes in and out of liquid and 50 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 over and between rollers in a manner similar to dyeing done by vat tender, warp dyeing. Box is kept threaded with a leader when no warp is in it. Classified as: Other employees. Box washer, colors. (See Color-box washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Boxer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers. Breaker, cloth-bale opening. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers. Breaker-machine man. (See Button breakerman; also Conroy operator.) Classi fied as: Other employees. Brown souring washer, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Brush washer works at a trough or sink supplied with both hot and cold water to wash color from brushes or “ furnishers” that furnish color to copper rollers in printing machine. Brush is set in bearings of a device which is made to turn rapidly while water from open jets is forced into it to remove color. Also holds a comb on brush while it is turning to remove lint, etc., from bristles. Classified as: Other employees. Brusher-machine operator operates a machine for brushing cloth to remove all dust and foreign matter. It consists of a large box like structure in which various beating and brushing rollers are so arranged that they brush both sides of cloth as it is drawn through machine. Operator sets large rolls or folds of cloth up in stand behind frame and threads it through machine, starting it around rolling pin on which it is to be rolled. Classified as: Other employees. Bumper assists engraver, machine, to run machine by turning a large wheel by hand when it is desired to engrave a number of repeats of a small figure. En graver adjusts pattern in machine so figure will fit accurately on copper roller and bumper turns wheel back and forth repeatedly until impression of figure on mill is engraved on roller. This short, jerky, back-and-forth motion is called “ bumping. ” Also assists in moving rollers and in other manual work. Clas sified as: Other employees. Bundler, small shipments, puts up and wraps securely small orders of cloth, and labels them for shipment. Classified as: Other employees. Button breakerman operates machine designed to remove excess starch from cloth by “ breaking u p” calendered finish. Cloth is guided through machine over and under series of wooden rollers which are covered with metal buttons, thus making cloth much softer. See also Conroy operator. Classified as: Other employees. Calender-machine operator. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders. Calender tender operates a calender or machine used to give cloth its final and lasting pressing. Machine consists essentially of a series of large, heavy cylinders or bowls supported in an iron frame in contact one with the other and are heated with steam or a gas flame. Operator threads cloth between nips of rollers, regulates speed of bowls, both relative and absolute, and regulates steam in cylinder or gas flow. He has absolute control of machine, starts and stops it, and looks after the oiling and cleaning of same. Classified as: Calen der tenders. Callert yardage. (See Yardage caller.) Classified as: Other employees. Can drier. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. Can feeder, drying. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. Can man, drying. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. Card instructor, sample making. (See Instructor, sample-card making.) Clas sified as: Other employees. Card maker, samples. (See Sample maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Card sample checker. (See Sample checker.) Classified as: Other employees. Cardboard stringer uses foot lever to operate small power punch to make holes in end of cardboard around which cuts or bolts of cloth are later wound. After punching holes, a string is tied through each hole. When cloth is later wound on these boards, yardage and description tags will be attached to this string. Classified as: Other employees. Carpenter does general carpentry work about plant, making repairs and changes in wooden structure and sometimes makes wooden shipping cases. Classified as: Other employees. Carton maker opens up prepared cartons from fiat-folded form in which they were purchased, puts them together, and fastens them in proper shape to receive products for shipment. Classified as: Other employees. Carton-parts assembler. (See Carton maker.) Classified as: Other employees. APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 51 Case maker, packing boxes. (See Box maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Case nailer. (See Nailer, packing boxes.) Classified as: Other employees. Caustic man. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Caustic mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Caustic-soda mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Caustic-soda reclaimer reclaims caustic soda from solutions that have been used in finishing process of cloth. Caustic-soda solution is pumped to special evapora tors for concentration. By means of steam under definite pressure, pumping and vacuum suction, caustic liquor is concentrated until most of salt is sepa rated out. This strong liquor is drawn to water-jacketed settling tanks, where on cooling more salt is separated out. Classified as: Other employees. Chain drier. (See Dry-can man, warp.) Classified as: Other employees. Chase-calender tender. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders. Checker, processes, follows up the work to make sure that cloth is processed in proper order. Checks incoming and outgoing cloth in various departments. Classified as: Other employees. Checker, samples. (See Sample checker; also Inspector, samples.) Classified as: Other employees. Checker, shipments, checks lot number, yardage, quality, etc., of goods which have been assembled for shipment. Classified as: Other employees. Chemical-box tender watches consistency of chemical mixtures used in bleaching, and adds water or chemicals as required. Classified as: Other employees. Chemical mixer. (See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Chemical mixer's helper helps chemical mixer in unpacking, storing, and mixing chemicals used in preparing bleaching solutions. Classified as: Other em ployees. Chemicker washer tender. (See Color-John washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Clammer. (See Clamper.) Classified as: Other employees. Clamper hardens “ die” which was made by die maker, puts it into a clamming or clamping machine, a specially constructed rotary press, which reproduces design on die in bas-relief on another soft steel roller, called “ mill” , used for engraving by machine. Die is set in machine, and the mill in above it and in contact with it. By properly applying pressure, impression of die is made on mill. Operator regulates pressure screw with a large wheel, and his skill comes in knowing how to apply pressure. Too much pressure will spoil mill and even break it or the die. When pressure is adjusted, he starts machine by throwing a lever, runs it about a minute, then takes out mill, dips it into nitric acid for an instant to bring out the impression, and then dips it into water to wash off acid. This operation is repeated many times. Mill must be replaced in machine in exact location from which taken. Operator keeps mill and die well supplied with lubricating oil. First impression made is that of burrs raised on outside edges of die which make corresponding indentations on the outside edges of mill so the two will fit and not slip when impression of design is being trans ferred. When design is raised completely on mill and has had the approval of foreman, it is hardened and ready for the engraver, machine. Classified as: Other employees. Cleaner, general, does general cleaning and scrubbing of floors, walls, bins, trucks, benches, etc. Classified as: Other employees. Cleaner, oil spots. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Cleaner, sheets and pillowcases. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Clipper, cloth ravelings, uses hand shears to clip loose threads from end of cloth cuts before they are folded. Classified as: Other employees. Clipper, tenter frame. (See Tenter-frame clipper.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Cloth-color matcher. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Cloth distributor uses truck to distribute rolls or pieces of cloth to various depart ments where needed. Classified as: Truckers. Cloth inspector. (See Inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors. Cloth layer-out. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers. Cloth painter. (See Touch-up man, printed cloth; also Paint-machine operator, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Cloth-roll machine tender. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers, cloth winders. Cloth stretcher. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Cloth winder, bolts. (See Winder, cloth, bolts.) Classified as: Other employees. 52 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Cloth winder, rolls. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers, cloth winders. Coiler tender. (See Coiler, warp.) Classified as: Other employees. Coxier, warp, watches coiling of warp as it comes over drying cans to see that it is properly coiled in a mass that can be handled without danger of being tangled, and removes it when a full warp has been coiled. At the beginning of a new warp that is coiled, a piece of burlap is placed to receive it and when coil is completed, operator ties corners of burlap over coil so it can be moved without soiling or tangling. Classified as: Other employees. Color boy, printing, works at cloth-printing machine when several colors are used in design which is being printed. Uses dipper to refill partly empty color boxes or pans in printing machine. Care must be used to avoid mixing colors or permitting any color to run too low in pan. Classified as: Other employees. Color-box filler, printing. (See Color boy, printing.) Classified as: Other employees. Color-box washer places color boxes, which are long copper pans used in cloth printing machines, into soaking tank and then uses a brush by hand to remove color which adheres. This is done when colors in machine are changed. Classified as: Other employees. Color inspector, cloth, examines cuts of cloth to ascertain if colors and shades are in accordance with specifications. Classified as: Inspectors. Color-John washer tender operates washing machine containing soapy water and special chemicals through which cloth dyed with colors that cannot stand the regular washing process are run to set these dyes. Classified as: Washer tenders. Color mixer measures proper quantities of standard colors, paste, etc., as directed by colorist, to obtain correct shade and consistency required for cloth-printing room. Spreads strainer cloth over top of tub; puts in liquids which are squeezed through cloth by his helper, known as a strainer, then uses wooden paddle to mix them properly. Classified as: Color mixers. Color mixer's helper assists color mixer in straining colors, trucks them w'here needed, and cleans room, working under color mixer’s direction. Classified as: Other employees. Color-shop clerk. (See Color stockman.) Classified as: Other employees. Color-shop laborer. (See Color mixer’s helper.) Classified as: Other employees. Color stockman supervises work in color storeroom, issues prepared colors in quantities as ordered, and maintains records of quantities on hand and how and where distributed. Classified as: Other employees. Color strainer. (See Strainer, colors.) Classified as: Other employees. Color weigher. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees. Color-weigher boss. (See Color stockman.) Classified as: Other employees. Colorist is usually head of color-mixing department; prepares and writes out color formula for color mixers in accordance with plans of designing department and decides when the correct shade has been reached. Examines printed sample, a small piece of cloth called a “ patch” or “ swatch” after it has been steamed and soaped and gives final word to printer when color is right. Classified as: Other employees. Compensator man, warp dyeing, manipulates compensator, which is a device designed to regulate tension of warp when going through dyeing machine. Classified as: Other employees. Cone winder. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Conroy operator operates machine which breaks up calendered finish of cloth as it passes over specially devised rollers in which are wavy ridges, thus making cloth softer. See also Button breakerman. Classified as: Other employees. Continuous-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders. Controller, mercerizing range, starts, stops, and regulates speed of mercerizing range as directed by mercerizer. Classified as: Other employees. Conveyor man, cloth, places cuts or pieces of cloth on conveyor belt for transfer to some other department or removes them from conveyor. Classified as: Other employees. Copper, repairing, drives up hoops to tighten barrels, tubs, etc., in which dyes and dye stocks are kept, and does other repair work on these containers. Classi fied as: Other employees. Copper-roller handler, printing. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as: Jackmen, printing. Cottage-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders. APPENDIX.—OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 53 Cotton-finishing washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Cutter, samples. (See Sample cutter.) Classified as: Other employees. Cuttler, warp dyeing, tends to delivery or plaiting end of warp-splitting machine, and keeps yarn in position by adjusting automatic guides. See also Splitter, warp. Classified as: Other employees. Dampener operator. (See Sprinkler tender.) Classified as: Sprinkler tenders. Delivery-end tender, calender, works at the rear of calender to see that cloth comes from machine properly. See also Calender tender. Classified as: Calender tenders. Die cuiter. (See Die maker.) Classified as: Die makers. Die maker is a highly skilled workman who engraves by hand one repeat of a given design on a small solid cylindrical roller of softened steel. Uses graver to cut design in similar manner as that done by the engraver, hand; uses a magnifying glass most of the time, since the work is so fine it cannot be seen without one. It must be so accurate that it will fit perfectly when several repeats are made on roller. Die makers bring out shaded effects by a scheme of dotting, known as “ stippling.” While this merely requires punching of small dots it is in practice an extremely delicate and difficult operation, as dots must be properly spaced and of exact depth. Classified as: Die makers. Die turner. (See Steel turner.) Classified as: Other employees. Diez-machine tender, dyeing, operates a dyeing machine known as the “ Diez” machine. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Distributor, cloth. (See Cloth distributor.) Classified as: Truckers. Doubler, cloth, runs a doubling and winding machine which is similar to machines used in folding department to wind cuts of cloth in bolts. Distinguishing feature is special device or guide called “ knife” , which is placed so as to divide or fold cloth in middle with one edge drawn over to meet the other, thus forming cloth into a double sheet. Guide device on machine then carries this doubled cloth to winding device of machine where it is wound on boards for trade in regular manner. Operator usually pastes a sticker on each wound bolt of cloth showing yardage which is automatically recorded by machine. Classified as: Other employees. Doubler operator, cloth winding. (See Doubler, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Doubling and winding machine operator, cloth. (See Doubler, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Drawing-machine operator operates machine for drawing threads out of material for decorative hemstitching. Classified as: Other employees. Drier boss, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Drier feeder, cloth. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. Drier foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Drier, skein yarn. (See Skein-yarn drier.) Classified as: Other employees. Drier tender runs a set of drying cans, large hollow copper cylinders 2 or 3 feet in diameter, and wide enough to carry 1 or 2 widths of cloth as desired. A number of these cans, from 6 to 30 according to particular needs, are arranged horizontally in tiers suited to space occupied, and are so geared that they will all turn together. Cans are filled with live steam, and cloth is guided around cans so that it will touch as much surface of each as is possible in order to be thoroughly dried. Drying cans are found in various departments. Classified as: Drier tenders. Drier, warp. (See Dry-can man, warp.) Classified as: Other employees. Drug weigher. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees. Dry-box tender. (See Skein-yarn drier.) Classified as: Other employees. Dry-can feeder. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. Dry-can feeder’s helper. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers. Dry-can man, cloth. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. Dry-can man, warp, watches warp yarn running over drying cans. These cans are filled with live steam, and strands of warp are directed several times around each can so they will be thoroughly dried. Stops machine if warp tangles occur or ends break, and calls second hand to fix it; when a ball of warp runs out he sets a new one on rack and ties end of new one to old one so there is a continuous strand running over cans all the time machine is in operation. Classified as: Other employees. Dry-can operator, cloth. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. 54 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Dry-drug man supervises work in room where dry drugs, starches, gums, and chemical stocks are stored, opens sacks, weighs out and issues these in quanti ties as needed in various departments. Classified as: Other employees. Dumper examines cloth after it comes off drier and before it is sent to printing department. Looks for “ reverses” , that is, cuts of cloth that were sewed in roU with face side down or reverse of other cuts in roll. It is essential that face of every piece be matched, either up or down, otherwise pattern would be printed in face of one piece and on back of another. Stands at a bench ana examines every seam; when he finds a piece reversed, cuts it out and sews it in properly. Classified as: Other employees. Dye feeder. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Dye maker. (See Kettleman, color mixing.) Classified as: Kettlemen, color mixing. Dye maker's helper. (See Kettleman’s helper.) Classified as: Kettlemen’s helpers. Dye mixer uses prescribed formula to prepare liquid dye by mixing specified pigments or other ingredients used in dye vats. Classified as: Other employees. Dye-tub tender. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing.) Classified as: Other employees. Dyer, cloth. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Dyer, foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Dyer, skein yarn, handles rods, or sticks on which skeins of yarn are suspended, works skeins back and forth in dye tanks, and turns them on the rods, thereby causing color to penetrate uniformly. Classified as: Other employees. Dyer, warp. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing.) Classified as: Other employees. Dyeing-machine tender runs one of many types of dyeing machines, as “ spiral dye beck” , “ jigger” , “ padder” , etc. Machine consists of a trough or vat to hold liquor, guide rollers over which cloth runs in and out of liquor, and squeeze rollers to press out excess liquor before removing. Tender threads up machine, operates valves to admit or cut off dye or liquor, watches the passage of the cloth to eliminate tangling or overlapping, regulates speed of machine and adjusts it for the prescribed number of dips a particular piece of cloth is to receive to get correct shade. Also oils and cleans machine and washes out vats after each batch. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Dyeing-machine tender's helper helps dyeing-machine tender load and unload dye machine, or does any other work as directed by tender. Classified as: Other employees. Edge sawyer, shipping-case parts. (See Sawyer, shipping-case parts.) Classified as: Other employees. Electric trucker operates an electric truck to convey materials from one depart ment to another about plant. Classified as: Truckers. Electrician repairs and maintains electrical wiring and attends and keeps in repair dynamos, motors, and other electrical equipment about plant. Classified as: Other employees. Electrician's helper assists electrician by passing tools, or parts needed in making repairs of wiring of plant. Classified as: Other employees. Elevator operator operates an elevator for hoisting or lowering product, supplies, or workmen from one floor to another. Classified as: Other employees. Endless-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders. Engraved-roller inspector. (See Roller inspector.) Classified as: Other employees. Engraved-roller storer. (See Shell-room man, engraved rollers.) Classified as: Other employees. Engraver, hand, is a highly skilled worker who uses a small steel instrument known as graver, by hand, to cut accurate designs on copper rollers which are used for printing cloth. A sketch or photograph of design is made and outlines of each color are drawn with some substance like lamp black and oil, which, when held against surface of roller and slightly dampened, will leave an imprint of design on roller. Guided by this imprint, engraver cuts lines out of copper with small steel instrument ground off at an angle with a very sharp cutting edge, which is mounted in a short rounded wooden handle which fits into the palm of engraver's hand while the steel is held between forefinger and thumb. Is able to follow very accurately lines of design, cutting a groove of the proper depth and uniform throughout. Also uses punches of various sizes and designs, and light hammers. Works at a bench with rollers supported in bearings. Keeps design in color before him and must be very careful to APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 55 engrave the lines of only one color on a roller. It is fine and exacting work. Classified as: Engravers, hand. Engraver, machine, operates machine used for transferring specific design from small steel mill to large copper roller used in printing cloth. Fits mill accurately in machine, using care to have roller and mill exactly parallel and their axes in perfect vertical alinement with each other. Engraver must know how much pressure to apply on mill and when to apply it. Machine has many regulatory attachments and is equipped to be run by power or hand according to whether the running is to be constant or intermittent. When a very small figure is to be engraved it is done by turning the roller back and forth by hand, a process known as ‘ ‘1bumping. ” When design is. on the whole circumference of mill, it is transferred by running mill and roller in frictional contact continuously in same direction until impression on rollers is sufficiently deep. Circumference of roller is an exact multiple of that of mill; thus repeats of design will be engraved around entire roller. Wherever mill makes depressions, copper pressed out rises above surface, making burs. These must be removed by polishing and, after inspection, roller is ready for printing machine. Classified as: Engravers, machine. Errand boy carries repair parts, supplies, orders, or instructions to and from vari ous departments as directed by second hand or section men. Classified as: Other employees. Etcher subjects the varnished surface of copper roller after design has been cut by pantographer to acid bath and thus etches design into copper. Uses wash box or basin about as wide as roller is long and divided into a front and back section. In one section is solution of nitric acid and in the other water. Roller to be etched is supported on bearings or arms so adjusted that it can be swung by hand wheel from front to back compartment. Roller is adjusted so that only surface of it touches acid, else copper on ends of rollers would be eaten away. Since “ varnish” put on roller is not affected by acid, only such lines as have been cut through varnish by pantographer are etched; that is, chemically eaten out. Etcher regulates strength of acid and must be able to tell when roller is etched sufficiently. When etching is completed, varnish is washed off. Etcher is responsible for etching, varnishing, and washing, and is assisted by various helpers. After being inspected and polished, the roller is ready for printing machine. Classified as: Etchers. Etcher’s helper lifts heavy copper rollers, moves them about, as directed by etcher, places them in supports to be varnished, etched, or washed; turns roller in etching bath, uses caustic solution to wash varnish off rollers after they are etched, etc. Classified as: Other employees. Examiner, cloth defects. (See Inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors. Examiner, cloth reverses. (See Dumper.) Classified as: Other employees. Fan tender. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders. Feed-end tender, calender, tends front or feed end of calender to see that cloth enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Calender tender. Classified as: Calender tenders. Feed-end tender, mangle, tends front or feed end of mangle to see that cloth enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Mangle tender. Classified as: Mangle tenders. Feeder, mercerizing range, tends front of mercerizing machine to see that cloth enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Mercerizer. Classified as: Mercerizers. Feeder, tenter frame, tends front of tentering machine to see that cloth enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Tenter-frame tender. Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Feeder, washing machine, tends front of washing machine to see that cloth enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Washer tender. Classified as: Washer tenders. Filter operator operates pumping machinery which filters water before it is used in washing, bleaching, or dyeing processes. Classified as: Other employees. Filter plant tender. (See Filter operator.) Classified as: Other employees. Finish mixer. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Finisher, skein yarn, takes out tangles from skeins of yarn, straightens them after they have been dyed, and twists 3 or 4 skeins into one bundle. Classified as: Other employees. Finishing-machine tender, cloth. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. 56 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Fixer, general, does repair work on various machines and appliances about plant and keeps them in proper running condition. Classified as: Other employees. Floorman assists wherever there is any heavy lifting to be done, as handling rollers for engravers and printers, setting up heavy rolls of cloth for female operators, etc. When not assisting in heavy work, he is kept busy cleaning up, oiling machinery, and trucking. Classified as: Floormen. Flyer operator operates a combination dry can and stretcher which stretches cloth lengthwise only. See also Drier tender; Tenter-frame tender. Classified as: Other employees. Folded-cloth tacker. (See Knotter.) Classified as: Knotters. Folded-cloth taper. (See Paper taper, folded cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Folder, cloth, hand, takes cloth, after it has been folded by hooker machine and after it has been inspected, and doubles entire pile over by hand two or three times and in different ways depending on what the trade desires, to make a neat package easy to handle and attractive in appearance. Cloth is then ready to be packed for shipment. Also folds, by hand, sheets and pillowcases for trade. Classified as: Folders. Folder, cloth, machine. (See Hooker-machine tender.) Classified as: Measurers. Folder, mangle. (See Mangle folder.) Classified as: Folders. Forcing-machine operator, printing. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as: Jackmen, printing. Foreman, assistant. (See Assistant foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Frame clipper. (See Tenter-frame clipper.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Frame feeder. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Frame operator. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Friction-calender operator. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders. Front tender, dyeing machine, tends front of dyeing machine to see that cloth enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Front tender, soaper, tends front of soaping machine to see that cloth enters properly and is being fed evenly. See also Soaper tender. Classified as: Soaper tenders. Frost-calender operator operates a machine known as the “ Frost” calender. See also Calender tender. Classified as: Calender tenders. Gas singer. (See Singer.) Classified as: Singers. General laborer does all kinds of unskilled work in various departments of the plant, such as sweeping, cleaning, washing windows, trucking, etc. Classified as: Other employees. General utility man. (See Utility man.) Classified as: Other employees. Grader, cloth, examines pieces of cloth thrown out by inspectors for various reasons a*id classifies them into groups such as “ firsts” , “ seconds” , etc. Classified as: Other employees. Gray ager tender. (See Ager tender.) Classified as: Ager tenders. Gray-cloth boy helps back gray tender at back of cloth printing machine; also piles and trucks gray cloth where needed. Classified as: Other employees. Gray-cloth-room man looks after delivery of gray goods to bleach house as needed. Classified as: Other employees. Gray-cloth tender, printing. (See Back tender, printing.) Classified as: Back tenders, printing. Gray-roll man, trucking. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Gray washer, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Grinder, paint. (See Paint grinder.) Classified as: Other employees. Gum maker. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees. * Gum mixer. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Hand engraver. (See Engraver, hand.) Classified as: Engravers, hand. Hand-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame clipper.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Hand painter, defects, printed cloth. (See Touch-up man, printed cloth.) Classi fied as: Other employees. Hand trucker. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. APPENDIX.—OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 57 Hanger man, yarn mercerizing, hangs skeins of yarn on arms of mercerizing device, where it is subjected to one or more chemical treatments necessary in this process. Classified as: Other employees. Head cloth inspector, working, has supervision over cloth inspection force. See also Working foreman. Classified as: Other employees. Hemmer, sheets. (See Sheet sewer.) Classified as: Sewers. Hermatite-machine operator, water proofing, tends machine which waterproofs cloth with hermatite. See also Padding-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders. Hooker-machine tender operates machine which automatically measures cloth as it is arranged into folds, usually of 1 or 1% yard lengths. It consists essentially of a table hinged in the middle, with iron jaws projecting over each end, and springs to hold table up against jaws. Cloth is threaded over slats to give it a little tension and ends are caught under one jaw. Machine is then started by throwing a lever and cloth is guided by a blade which is made to swing back and forth, hooking cloth under jaw at each end. When a seam comes along showing end of cut, machine is stopped and seam ripped out or cloth cut near it. A foot lever depresses table enough to remove measured cloth. Classified . as: Measurers. Hoop puller places and adjusts hoops or steel tie bands on bales of cloth after they have been reduced to correct size in a press and fastens them securely. Classified as: Other employees. Hot-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Hot-frame tender's helper assists tenter-frame tender in placing rolls of cloth on unwinding spindle, and any other general work where needed. Classified as: Other employees. Indigo dyer operates dyeing machine in which indigo-dye liquor is used to dye cloth. See also Dveing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Indigo-machine repairer. (See Fixer, general; also Millwright.) Classified as: Other employees. Indigo-machine tender, cloth. (See Indigo vat tender, cloth.) Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Indigo mixer. (See Color mixer.) Classified as: Color mixers. Indigo-vat tender, cloth, tends an indigo vat which is a large tank about 4 feet deep, 10 feet long, and about 3 feet wide. Rollers to guide cloth are placed wherever needed to give the proper immersion. Cloth is led in over a rack, and after being immersed in dye is run between a pair of squeeze rollers and over a number of guide rollers to expose it fully to the air so as to allow the indigo to oxidize. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Indigo-vat tender, warp, tends machine used for indigo dj^eing of yarn in chain form. See also Vat tender, warp dyeing. Classified as: Other employees. Inspector, acid strength. (See Acid-strength inspector.) Classified as: Other employees. Inspector, cloth, uses a small microscope and measuring instruments to examine cloth after it is opened and before it is put through any process. Measures specific dimensions of cloth, counts warp and filling threads to determine weave; examines yarn for size and tests strength of cloth; and in general deter mines if cloth is of type and standard represented. Also examines each cut of finished cloth by turning each fold first one side then the other so that the whole length is exposed to view and looks for imperfections of color, stains, etc., which developed in dyeing or finishing processes. May make minor repairs or cut out imperfect pieces if near end of cut. Cloth is then ready for folders who prepare it for market. Classified as: Inspectors. Inspector, cloth colors. (See Color inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors. Inspector, engraved rollers. (See Roller inspector.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Inspector, samples, looks over work of sample maker, passing upon it and keeping a record as to the neatness, efficiency, and accuracy. Classified as: Other employees. Inspector's helper, cloth, assists inspector, cloth, in handling cloth, helping to spread it out, removing it when inspected, and making himself generally useful; may assist in simple tests. Classified as: Other employees. 58 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Instructor, sample card making, instructs employees in method of making up cloth sample cards. Classified as: Other employees. Ironer, hand, sheets and pillowcases, uses an electric hand iron to smooth out hems on sheets and pillow cases. Classified as: Other employees. Jacket, cloth rolls, conveys, by hand, cloth roll through which a long iron rod runs with room at each end for a hand-hold, so that two men, one at each end, carry it from one department to another as desired. Classified as: Other employees. Jackmany printing, puts copper rollers on mandrils and otherwise handles rollers and mandrils, lifting them onto trucks, moving them about, putting them together with forcing jack, using care not to weaken or break them, trucking them to printing machine, and setting them into bearings on machine. Bulk of work is merely heavy manual labor. Classified as: Jackmen, printing. Jackman’s helper assists jackman, under his direction, in handling rollers and mandrils, trucking them where needed. Classified as: Other employees. Jig-dyeing machine tender tends dyeing machine, which consists essentially of a vat to hold liquor, with guide rollers near top and near bottom. Above vat are two pairs of arms or supports and the necessary gears for driving. Roll of cloth to be dyed is placed in open form on one pair of arms and the end directed around guide rollers in vat so it will be conveyed down and up through dye liquor. After it passes out of liquor it is wound on a roller on other pair of arms. After running cloth through once, gear can be shifted so as to wind cloth back on first roller. It may be run through as many times as is necessary to get correct shade. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classi fied as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Kaumagraph operator, cloth stamping, operates a machine used for stamping trade mark in selvage of cloth. See also Stamper, cloth, trade mark. Classi fied as: Other employees. Kettlemany color mixing, supervises preparation of standard colors and “ reduc ing” paste in accordance with orders and formulas received from chief colorist. Directs work of helpers who go for dry drugs; sees that they put these into proper kettle, that proper amount of water is added, and that steam is kept up to proper temperature; tells them when to turn it off and when to remove the color; and looks after the storage of these colors in hogsheads or other containers for future use; also sees that the floors and kettles are kept clean. Kettles used for this purpose are made of copper and usually hold 50 to 60 gallons, with a steam jacket between the inner and outer surface which allows the mixture to be boiled. The kettles are supported between two uprights, which allows them to be tipped to pour out contents. Classified as: Kettlemen, color mixing. Kettleman’s helper works under direction of kettleman on any work incident to preparation of standard colors and reducing paste. Uses truck to convey dry drugs and chemicals from drug room to kettles, puts them into kettles, turns steam on and off as needed, pours out color or paste into tubs, trucks color or paste and dumps it into proper hogshead, washes and cleans tubs and kettles thoroughly between each batch, and washes floors around kettles with a hose at least once a day. Classified as: Kettlemen’s helpers. Kier boiler prepares kiers for boiling and looks after boiling. Directs filling of kier with cloth and opens and closes valves admitting liquor and those admit ting steam whenever necessary. Watches from time to time to see that liquor is circulating as it should and keeps track of length of time each batch is in. As boiling continues throughout 24 hours of each day, it is necessary that some employees work at night. Kier is a large iron receptacle with a false bottom raised several inches to keep cloth off steam pipes, and is used for treating or bleaching cloth that requires a long period of time. It is usually located below level of floor, with manhole through which workers enter. Classified as: Kier boilers. Kier boiler’s helper assists kier boiler in preparing boiler for cloth, working under his direction. Classified as: Other employees. Kier packer. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters. Kier piler. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters. Kier plaiter. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters. Knotter uses strong needle with heavy thread or string to put stitches (usually two) through selvages of top and bottom plies at each end of folded cloth, each stitch binding top fold to bottom one. These stitches hold ends of cloth so that it remains as folded. Classified as: Knotters. APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 59 Label-machine operator. (See Label sewer.) Classified as: Other employees. Label sewer operates a sewing machine to stitch cotton labels which show style number, quality, etc., on sheets and pillowcases. See also Ticketer. Classi fied as: Other employees. Labeler, cloth boards, uses brush to spread paste on labels and sticks them over ends of boards on which cloth is to be wound. These labels contain style number, trade name, etc. Classified as: Other employees. Laboratory tester makes tests of colors and finished products for fastness of color. Classified as: Other employees. Laborer, general. (See General laborer.) Classified as: Other employees. Lathe hand. (See Roller turner.) Classified as: Roller turners. Layer-out, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers. Leader is a minor supervisory employee who regularly works with others and sets the pace for the group in which he is employed. Classified as: Other employees. Lime-kier boiler. (See Kier boiler.) Classified as: Kier boilers. Limeing washer tender, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Long John washing-machine tender. (See Color-John washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Long-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders. Long tenter-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenterframe tenders. Loose-starch man. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees. Lot chaser watches to see that different lots of cloth which belong together are kept together as they go through various operations of plant. Classified as: Other employees. Machine cutter, samples. (See Sample cutter.) Classified as: Other employees. Machine engraver. (See Engraver, machine.) Classified as: Engravers, machine. Machine engraver’s helper. (See Bumper.) Classified as: Other employees. Machinist operates such machines as drill presses, lathe, milling, etc., in machine shop, to make or repair broken parts of productive machines. Classified as: Other employees. Machinist1s helper assists machinist by passing tools or parts used in repair of machines. Classified as: Other employees. Maintenance man looks after general maintenance of buildings, trucks, windows, etc., to see that they are kept in good operating condition. Classified as: Other employees. Maker-up, folding. (See Folder, cloth, hand.) Classified as: Folders. Mandril-press hand. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as: Jackmen, printing. Mangle feeder. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Mangle folder folds sheets and pillowcases by hand for trade as they come from mangle ironer. They are then ready to be packed for shipment. Classi fied as: Folders. Mangle tender operates a mangle consisting of a series of two or more cylinders placed one on top of the other so their centers will be in the same vertical plane and so the “ nip” between any two can be regulated as to pressure. At feed end of machine is an “ expander” designed to stretch cloth to a desired width. Most mangles have a box or trough beneath bowls containing liquor in which cloth is immersed before mangling, and are usually designated by kind of liquor in box, such as water mangle, starch mangle, etc. Primary pur pose of the mangle is to wet cloth and press it out smoothly, but by manipulat ing cloth between the bowls it is possible to assist in giving it different “ finishes.” Mangle is usually operated in connection with either a set of dry cans or tenter frame. Tender regulates supply of water, starch, or other material in box con nected with mangle; regulates “ nip” or pressure on bowls; guides cloth as it enters, keeping it straight and smooth; cleans and oils machine; washes out starch box and keeps machine threaded with a band of strong cloth called “ listing” when the machine is not running. Classified as: Mangle tenders. Marker, cloth. (See Ticketer; also Label sewer.) Classified as: Other employees. Marker, shipments. (See Stenciler.) Classified as: Other employees. Mason uses stone or brick and mortar to form or repair walls, foundation, walks, etc., around plant. Classified as: Other employees. Matcher, cloth reverser. (See Dumper.) Classified as: Other employees. Matcher, shades. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. 60 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Measurer operates hooker or other measuring machine to determine length of cloth for each job to be run through dyeing or finishing plant. Also after finishing processes again measures this cloth to determine number of yards in each cut, either by counting folds by hand'or running it through hooker-folding machine. Record of yards is entered on tag and attached to each piece. Classified as: Measurers. Measurer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Mercerizer operates machine known as mercerizing range. By this process cloth is given a luster similar to that of silk. Cloth is led through a water mangle, trough of which contains solution of strong caustic soda, from here it goes to a tentering frame which holds it out to proper width. In its passage it is sprayed with water and on emerging at other end, it runs through two water mangles, the trough of the first containing dilute sulphuric acid and that of the second containing water. It is then plaited down on trucks and conveyed to a set of dry cans to be dried. See also Mangle tender; Tenter-frame tender; Drier tender: Swing tender. Classified as: Mercerizers. Messenger. {See Errand boy.) Classified as: Other employees. Mill turner. {See Steel turner.) Classified as: Other employees. Millwright installs or moves machines in plant, puts up and maintains shafting, pulleys, etc., in correct working condition. Classified as: Other employees. Mixer, ammonia solution. {See Ammonia-solution preparer.) Classified as: Other employees. Mixer, bath. {See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Mixer, caustic soda. {See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Mixer, chemicals. {See Bath mixer.) Classified as: Bath mixers. Mixer, colors. {See Color mixer.) Classified as: Color mixers. Mixer, soap. {See Soap mixer.) Classified as: Soap mixers. Moistening-machine operator. {See Sprinkler tender.) Classified as: Sprinkler tenders. Nailer, cases. (See Nailer, packing boxes.) Classified as: Other employees. Nailer, packing boxes, uses hammer and nails to fasten covers on boxes which are packed ready for shipment. May also construct these boxes. See also Box maker. Classified as: Other employees. Napper tender operates machine for raising nap or fuzz evenly over surface of cloth, giving it a woolly appearance. Finished product is called “ flannelette.” Operator threads cloth over and around a cylinder whose surface is densely studded with little steel wires or barbs. This cylinder rotates in opposite direction from others, thus drawing out a multitude of little ends of fibers over surface of cloth, giving it desired “ fuzzy” effect. Classified as: Other em ployees. Net-drier tender runs a drier in which a net supports cloth and keeps it off hot cans while it is being dried. See also Drier tender. Classified as: Drier tenders. Numberer, tickets. {See Ticketer.) Classified as: Other employees. Oil-spot washer washes out oil or grease spots from woven goods, using a hand brush or a cloth rubber (a piece of wood corrugated on bottom with a handle on top), a board, soap and water, or prepared chemicals. Classified as: Other employees. Open soaper. {See Soaper tender.) Classified as: Soaper tenders. Open stockman, cloth. {See Stockman, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Opener, bales, cloth, opens up bales of cloth as they are received at converting plant or are brought in from storeroom; removes tie bands and burlap from bales, cuts stitches binding pieces and places them in position for inspector or lays out and distributes to other workers; may also pull out ends for sewer. Classified as: Openers. Opener, cloth, from rope form. (See Scutcher tender.) Classified as: Scutcher tenders. Opener, hand, cloth, from rope form. (See Scutcher tender.) Classified as: Scutcher tenders. Order clerk. (See Shipping clerk.) Classified as: Other employees. Order packer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers. Packer puts specific number of cuts of folded cloth into packing cases and nails on covers; also trucks cases to shipping or storage departments. Classified as: Packers. APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 61 Packing-box maker. (See Box maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Padding-machine tender tends machine used for impregnating cloth with mordants, waterproofing materials, etc., which is essentially same as the jig-dyeing ma chine, except that cloth passes through a pair of squeeze rollers to press out excess liquor before being wound. See also Jig-dyeing machine tender; Dyeingmachine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Paint grinder operates machine which grinds lumps of paint materials to powder form. Also feeds these materials into hopper of machine. Classified as: Other employees. Paint-machine operator, cloth, operates machine consisting of a large cylinder with a number of bristle brushes around its circumference, used for painting special designs on cloth as it is guided through machine under its rotating cylinder. Classified as: Other employees. Painter, cloth. (See Touch-up man, printed cloth; also Paint-machine operator, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Palmer operator operates “ Palmer” machine used to press finished cloth. It consists of 1 large heated drum and 3 or 4 smaller rollers. A blanket in form of a belt is threaded over large drum and over small rollers, cloth is run between blanket and heated drum, thus giving cloth its finish pressing. See also Calender tender. Classified as: Calender tenders. Pantograph setter sets up pantograph machine for purpose of transferring design from flat zinc plate to curved surface of copper roller. By this method design may be copied on same scale as original, or on an enlarged or a reduced scale. Various parts of machine are supported in an iron frame near table to which zinc tracing plate is attached and above table is supported “ varnisher” roller in which design is to be traced. Tracing point is stylus at end of one of the sides of pantograph. Reproducing points are very small diamonds supported on a rigid bar which is given a horizontal motion; “ repeats” to cover width of roller can be made by attaching necessary number of diamond points to this bar. Complicated systems of levers make up back part of machine. Setter must have complete knowledge of machine and considerable skill and accuracy in adjusting various parts, levers, and mechanisms. He sets in rollers, adjusts levers to reproduce design in desired size, adjusts diamond points so they will cut roller in proper places, fastens zinc plate firmly in proper position, and keeps machine oiled and in repair. Classified as: Other employees. • Pantographer runs a pantograph machine after pantograph setter has completely set and adjusted it for work desired. Traces all lines of one color on zinc plate. Stylus has a sharp point which fits into grooves cut in plate by plate cutter. Operator sits at table and manipulates stylus with both hands and in addition operates a foot lever which brings the diamond points into contact with roller or releases them. While foot is held on lever, every movement of the stylus causes diamond points to cut a corresponding line in varnish on roller. Oper ator must be careful to trace only one color on a roller, as a separate roller is used for each different color. Lines cut in error, if discovered, may be painted over. It is possible to set tools so that several repeats around roller as well as those lengthwise of it can be made in one operation. Classified as: Other employees. Paper boy keeps wrapper of cloth bolts supplied with paper and may stick on pasters, or do similar work. Classified as: Other employees. Paper taper, folded cloth, puts paper bands on both ends of folded cloth; may also put on ticket giving name and color of cloth and number of yards. See also Bander, cloth, bolts; Ticketer. Classified as: Other employees. Paperer, cloth. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Paperer, cloth boards. (See Labeler, cloth boards.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Passer, cloth cuts, works in cloth room as helper to other workers, performing such duties as passing cuts of cloth from inspector to folder. Classified as: Other employees. Paste-board paperer. (See Labeler, cloth boards.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Paster, cloth boards. (See Labeler, cloth boards.) Classified as: Other employees. Patch boy. (See Patch-process man.) Classified as: Other employees. Patch drier. (See Patch-process man.) Classified as: Other employees. Patch-process man puts first yard of cloth of new design through all processes and returns it to printer for his inspection and approval. Classified as: Other employees. 177409°—33------5 62 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Patch-steamer tender takes samples of cloth and puts them through steamer processes in usual manner. See also Steamer tender. Classified as: Steamer tenders. Photo-engraver, cloth designs, photographs, prints, and etches designs or patterns of cloth onto specially prepared zinc plates which will in turn be reproduced and engraved on copper cylinders. Classified as: Other employees. Photographer, doth designs, takes photograph, develops negative, makes film, prints, and etches designs on zinc plates. Classified as: Other employees. Piece-drier tender. (See Drier tender.) Classified as: Drier tenders. Piece dyeing-machine tender tends machine that dyes cloth goods in open or rope form as distinguished from yarn, skeins, warp, etc. See also Spiral dye-beck tender; Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Piece-goods packer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers. Piece-goods receiving opener. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers. Piece-goods washer. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Piler watches cloth as it comes from back of any machine where swing folding attachment is used. Keeps it packed down and properly arranged as it falls loosely on truck and removes truck, replacing it with an empty one. Classified as: Pilers. Pillowcase cleaner. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Pillowcase cloth tearer. (See Tearer, cloth for sheets.) Classified as: Other employees. Pillowcase folder. (See Mangle folder.) Classified as: Folders. Pillowcase sewer. (See Sheet sewer.) Classified as: Sewers. Pillowcase stamper. (See Stamper, cloth, trade mark.) Classified as: Other employees. Pillowcase straightener. (See Pillowcase turner.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Pillowcase turner turns pillowcases right side out by hand, after seaming; may also straighten out seams and make them ready to be pressed. Classified as: Other employees. Pillowcase wrapper. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Pipe fitter cuts and fits new pipe where needed. Repairs and maintains steaming, drying, dyeing, and draining systems. Also may look after sanitary plumbing about plant. Classified as: Other employees. Pipe fitter’s helper assists pipe fitter in cutting and fitting steam and other pipe used about plant. Classified as: Other employees. Plain calender tender. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders. Plaiter plaits down rope of cloth either in a pit or bin or in a large iron receptacle known as a kier for purpose of bleaching. A wince overhead draws cloth and it falls down into pit or kier. Plaiter directs fall of cloth with wooden stick, causing cloth to lie in laps, forming uniform layers, so it will not tangle when coming out and, if in a kier, so liquor can readily circulate through it. Classi fied as: Plaiters. Plaiter-down. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders. Plate cutter, cloth designs, takes the zinc plate with pencil design drawn on it by sketch maker and with a graver similar to those used by engraver, hand, cuts a slight depression in the zinc plate along pencil lines. This is very exacting work, as lines must be cut to a uniform depth and joints made clean and accu rate. Must also keep cutting tools sharp. Classified as: Other employees. Plate painter uses small brush to paint in different colors of design on zinc plate for guidance of pantographer. All of any one color in original must be one color on plate as pantographer traces lines of only one color on a given roller. Classified as: Other employees. Plate retoucher, cloth designs, uses graving instrument by hand to retrace designs on plates that may be imperfect. Classified as: Other employees. Polisher, metal, places copper roller which is to be polished on supports of ma chine, which permits roller to turn in trough of water; operator holds polishing stone against roller while it rotates in water. Considerable strength is required in placing roller in position and some skill in manipulation of polishing stone; also judgment to determine when roller is sufficiently polished. Classified as: Polishers, metal. Polisher, rollers. (See Polisher, metal.) Classified as: Polishers, metal. Preparing mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Pressman, cloth baling. (See Baler, cloth.) Classified as: Balers. Pressure-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders. Printer, cloth. (See Printing-machine tender.) Classified as: Printing-machine tenders. APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TEEMS AND DEFINITIONS 63 Printer, tickets, operates small printing press to print tickets, tags, and pasters upon which the style number, yardage, etc., of products are shown. May also print record cards or do other similar work for plant office. Classified as: Other employees. Printing-machine tender operates machine to print designs of one or more colors on cloth together with its dry cans and other appurtenances. Is responsible for proper printing of cloth; adjusts machine and keeps it in repair; starts, stops, and regulates its speed. Watches cloth for imperfections as it is printed and takes immediate steps to correct cause of any defects. For every color in the pattern there is a separate engraved roller and these rollers must be exactly fitted. This work is termed “ pitching pattern.” Is assisted by back tender, spare hand, and sometimes color boy. Below each copper roller and in contact with it is another roller of wood or a stiff brush called “ furnisher” which revolves so that lower part is submerged in the color liquor contained in a pan beneath it and upper part in contact with copper roller, thus furnishing the color to it. Between furnisher and pressure bowl is a sharp, smooth, steel blade called a “ doctor” designed to scrape all color off surface and leave it only in engraved parts. Behind printing machine are supports for holding rolls of cloth known as “ back greys” and white cloth which is to be printed. Cloth is guided around pressure bowl and between it and several engraved rollers. Each prints its color design on cloth in its proper place to make pattern as designed. Cloth is then guided to dry cans and from these it is swung into folds on truck. Classified as: Printing-machine tenders. Printing-machine tender's helper. (See Spare hand, cloth printing.) Classified as: Other employees. Printing-press feeder, tickets. (See Printer, tickets.) Classified as: Other employees. Proctor-drier tender operates a drier known as the “ Proctor.” See also Drier tender. Classified as: Drier tenders. Process checker. (See Checker, processes.) Classified as: Other employees. Pumper, acid solutions. (See Acid-pump man.) Classified as: Other employees. Pumper, bleaching solutions. (See Acid-pump man.) Classified as: Other employees. Pumper, water, operates pumps which supply fresh water to washing machines and other places where needed. Classified as: Other employees. Pure comb-mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Pure range-mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Push-box man. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Quill winder. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Quiller tender. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Bag man collects defective pieces of cloth cut out by inspectors and other similar waste and places it in sacks or baling press to be sold later as waste. Classified as: Other employees. Rag-table sorter. (See Remnant man.) Classified as: Other employees. Range feeder, cloth, runs a combination dyeing machine and dry can used to dye cloth and then dry it. See also Dyeing-machine tender; Drier tender. Classified as: Dyeing-machine tenders. Ranger, dyeing machine. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders. Ranger, mangle. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Rear-end man, dry cans. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers. Receiving opener, bales, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers. Reclaimer, caustic soda. (See Caustic-soda reclaimer.) Classified as: Other employees. Reclaimer, soap. (See Soap reclaimer.) Classified as: Other employees. Recovery man, chemicals. (See Caustic-soda reclaimer; also Soap reclaimer.) Classified as: Other employees. Red dyeing-machine tender. (See Dyeing-machine tender.) Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders. Red machine-washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Reed washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Reel winder operates machine which transfers yarn from spools or bobbins to skeins for purpose of dyeing in skeins. Classified as: Yarn winders. 64 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Rehandler, folded cloth, takes regular order of folded cloth from stock and refolds, stamps, and tickets it in special manner as ordered by customer. Classified as: Other employees. Remnant man works in cloth room sorting and bundling short pieces of cloth which may be defective or short pieces cut from regular lengths of cloth by inspectors. Perfect pieces are sorted by lengths and assembled into bundles of 100 yards for sale as remnants. Defective pieces, known as “ rags” , are later placed in bales and sold as waste. Classified as: Other employees. Remnant sorter. (See Remnant man.) Classified as: Other employees. Repairer, machines. (See Fixer, general.) Classified as: Other employees. Return-goods handler returns poorly processed cloth to various departments for reprocessing. Classified as: Other employees. Rewinder, cloth, rewinds rolls of cloth, cuts out stitches between various cuts, and pastes these ends together thus forming a smooth even surface where these cuts join, which is necessary before running cloth through such machines as calendering, printing, etc., machines. Classified as: Other employees. Rewinder, yarn. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Rodman loads and unloads pressure steamer, a large room-like apparatus used for steaming cloth when a longer period of treatment is required than is possible with ager; in its bottom are steam pipes and at one end is a large door which closes hermetically. On a false bottom are two rails which can be extended outside chamber when door is opened so that carriage or rack which supports cloth can be moved in an out to load and unload. Three rodmen usually work together and look after three steamers. Prior to loading, 3 or 4 pieces of cloth are drawn together and swung off onto a truck as one sheet. Rodmen hang all pieces as one over wooden rods or pins of cloth carriage so as to get as many up and down stretches as possible. When loaded, rodmen push carriage into chamber and close door. After cloth has been treated sufficiently steam is turned off, rodmen pull out carriage, remove rods and pile cloth on a truck and send it to swing tender to separate pieces and swing-plait cloth. Classified as: Rodmen. Rodney Hunt washer operator operates washer known as a “ Rodney Hunt.” See also Washer tender. Classified as: Washer tenders. Roll calender tender. (See Calender tender.) Classified as: Calender tenders. Roll hauler cloth, removes rolls of cloth from machine and hauls them to packing and shipping department. Classified as: Truckers. Roll-off machine operator. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders. Roll pusher. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Roller handler, printing. (See Jackman, printing.) Classified as: Jackmen, printing. Roller inspector works at bench like engraver, hand; examines engraved roller very carefully. If lines are missing, cuts them in with a graver. If lines are en graved where they should not be, fills them up with copper, by laying in piece of copper wire, cut to proper length to fill groove, then pounds this in with a light hammer and rubs it over with a burnishing steel to smooth it. This is fine and exacting work, as failure to find mistakes will cause much trouble later. This work is sometimes done by engraver, hand. Classified as: Other employees. Roller painter uses small brush by hand to cover with varnish certain parts of roller that have been indicated by some mark as not to be etched. Care must be exercised to put varnish only where directed and to make varnish edge clear cut. Classified as: Other employees. Roller polisher. (See Polisher, metal.) Classified as: Polishers, metal. Roller storer, engravings. (See Shell-room man, engraved rollers.) Classified as: Other employees. Roller turner operates specially devised lathe to turn copper rollers down to proper size, also turns designs off discarded rollers. Operator centers and fastens stock in position on machine, turns power on and off, also makes adjustments of machinery during its operation. After roller is turned down to proper size, may burnish it by holding smooth piece of steel against it. Classified as: Roller turners. Roller varnisher coats copper rollers for pantographing with an acid-resisting sub stance called in the trade “ varnish.” After it has been polished roller is placed in a turning machine and quantity of varnish is dabbed in it with a brush; roller is then turned by power while varnisher presses a smooth strip of wood against it to spread varnish evenly over roller, which is then taken out, stood on end and boiling water poured into it, thus heating roller and APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 65 melting varnish just enough to make it absolutely smooth. Roller is then allowed to cool and is ready for pantographing. May also mix and boil varnish. Classified as: Other employees. Roller man, engraving. (See Engraver, hand.) Classified as: Engravers, hand. Rope soaper tender. (See Soaper tender.) Classified as: Soaper tenders. Salvager, bagging, sorts and reclaims usable burlap which has been removed from incoming bales of goods, and places them in bundles or sacks; straightens out metal tie-bands, and may repaint them by dipping for use on shipments. Classified as: Other employees. Sample card man. (See Sample maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Sample checker compares samples of cloth on card with cloth and order for same. Classified as: Other employees. Sample cutter cuts samples out of cloth along lines indicated by swatch folder. Sometimes uses a die or punch, which he hits on the head with a mallet, or an automatic knife. When the latter is used, cloth is held firm by operator with a foot lever and knife is guided by hand. These employees sometimes do swatch folding, card and bookmaking, and mailing. Classified as: Other employees. Sample maker uses a small brush to spread paste by hand on samples of cloth, which have been cut to specific size and sticks them in proper position on cards prepared for them. Sometimes binds several of these cards together to make a book of samples. See also Sample cutter; and swatch folder. Classified as: Other employees. Sample steamer. (See Patch-steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders. Sanforize tester determines by tests how much cloth goods should be shrunk both as to width and length so that future laundering of the cloth will not shrink it any more. Classified as: Other employees. Sanforizer, doth, operates special machine used for shrinking cloth in similar manner to that described under ‘ ‘ shrinking-machine operator, cloth,” except that in sanforizing method machine is specially arranged so that cloth is shrunken to its fullest extent. Classified as: Other employees. Saturating-machine tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Sawyer, shipping-case parts, operates power saw to trim boards to proper sizes for making shipping cases for product. Classified as: Other employees. Schreiner tender operates a machine that imparts a wavy appearance to cloth. In this finishing operation cloth is passed between rolls covered with great number of finely engraved lines cut in wavy formation. When put under pressure of about 4,500 pounds, these ridges of rolls are pressed into fabric thus producing wavy effect, with result that fiat surface of cloth is broken up into little planes that reflect light in special manner. Heating of rolls makes this reflected luster more lasting. Mercerized cotton in Schreiner finish rivals silk in appear ance. Classified as: Calender tenders. Scrubber washes floors in plant either by hand, using a brush, mop, and water, or a machine with a rotating device which causes brushes to move in a circular motion thus cleaning floor. Classified as: Other employees. Scutcher tender tends a scutcher machine which is designed to open cloth to its full width after it has been bleached, dyed, or otherwise processed in rope form. Machine consists of a beater and scrimp rail and a pair of drag rollers. It is supported near ceiling with a considerable stretch between it and the last pot-eye through which cloth passes. This arrangement permits cloth to open up as much as possible before reaching scutcher, and prevents twisting and tangling. Cloth is drawn by drag rollers of scutcher first coming in contact with beater which revolves against direction of cloth* and thus opens it to width. As cloth passes over scrimp rail, it is stretched out and freed of creases. Cloth can now be swung onto a truck or led to another machine. As scutcher machines require little attention, their operators also often tend other machines, such as mangles, or swing folders. Classified as: Scutcher tenders. Second hand assists overseers, work being more or less of a supervisory nature. Is responsible for having work come from machines according to specifications; sees that employees are doing their work and doing it properly: issues orders; and makes or supervises the making of important changes or repairs of ma chinery. Classified as: Other employees. Seconds sorter arranges seconds of sheets and pillowcases in proper size and grade. Classified as: Other employees. Section hand occupies a supervisory position directly under second hand. Has charge of certain sections in which he must supervise workers and see that 66 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 work comes off machines properly; makes repairs and changes in machinery; and sees that machines are properly oiled and cleaned. Classified as: Other employees. Serging-machine operator operates sewing machine to stitch row of binding stitches at end of cloth to prevent raveling. See also Sewer. Classified as: Sewers. Sewer sews together, in various departments, cuts or pieces of cloth or ends of rolls to make a continuous run of cloth of desired length. Sewer uses an ordinary sewing-machine head fastened in a small portable iron frame about 3 feet high. It can be operated with a pedal or by motor; leading end of piece of cloth is lapped over tail end of another and sewed together. Stitches are usually large and loose and can be easily ripped out. May also sew and hem sheets and pillowcases. Classified as:"Sewers. Sewing-machine operator. (See Sewer.) Classified as: Sewers. Shade-cloth paperer. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Shade grader, cloth. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Shade matcher, cloth, matches shades or colors of various pieces of dyed cloth, placing them on trucks for shipment or storage, grouped according to color. Classified as: Other employees. Shader, cloth. (See Shade matcher, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Shearer, cloth. (See Shearing-machine operator.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Shearing-machine operator operates machine which shears off protruding fiber from one side of cloth as it passes through, leaving an even and smooth surface. Classified as: Other employees. Sheet cleaner. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Sheet-cloth picker selects rolls of cloth from stock room which are to be made into sheets. Classified as: Other employees. Sheet-cloth tearer. (See Tearer, cloth for sheets.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Sheet folder; (See Mangle folder.) Classified as: Folders. Sheet hemmer. (See Sheet sewer.) Classified as: Sewers. Sheet inspector. (See Inspector, cloth.) Classified as: Inspectors. Sheet-metal worker uses hand tools or may operate special machines to cut, punch, or bend cold plate or sheet metal into various sizes or shapes for use about finishing plant. Classified as: Other employees. Sheet sewer operates sewing machine to put hems in sheets and pillowcases. See also Sewer. Classified as: Sewers. Sheet stamper. (See Stamper, cloth, trade mark.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Sheet wrapper. (See Wrapper, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Shell-room man, engraved rollers, uses hand truck to convey copper rollers from storage room to engraving department and from engraving department to printing department; maintains records of rollers being used, and stores them on racks when not in use. Classified as: Other employees. Shipping clerk directs work of packing and marking bales and packages for ship ment, may assist in loading cars and trucks, and maintains records of all ship ments; Classified as: Other employees. Short tenter-frame tender. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenterframe tenders. Shrinking-machine operator, cloth, operates a machine used to shrink cloth. It consists principally of a long trough containing boiling water, with straps or belts along side edges, pins protruding from these belts. Racks are on each end of the trough to support the rolls of cloth as they are unwound and wound again. Cloth is placed on rack on one end of trough and fed through an auto matic feeder device which hooks the edges of cloth on the pins protruding from the belts along each edge of the trough in such a manner that there is a slight gathering between each pin, this gathering being governed by the amount cloth is to be shrunk. Cloth is carried over steam arising from boiling water thus causing it to shrink, and is wound onto a roll on other end of machine. Classified as: Other employees. Silicate-washer tender. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Singer runs a singeing machine which burns nap off cloth. Operator watches cloth, as it runs through very rapidly, to see that it goes smoothly and flat and that it comes off properly singed and not scorched. Keeps plates at proper temperature and feeds fuel, or if a gas machine, must regulate flame. Machine must be run constantly, for slightest stop is sure to burn cloth. When not running, machine is left threaded with a leader. There are two types of machines— plate and gas. Plate type consists of two curved copper plates APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 67 set in fire clay over fire box in which coke or oil is burned. Cloth is led in open width into machine from back, passes under guide rollers over hot plates, through water mangle and out. While passing over plates, nap is burned off. Gas type has two long rows of Bunsen burners slightly longer than width of cloth. Cloth in open width is led first through one flame, around three or four guide rollers, then through other flame, then through water mangle and out. Classified as: Singers. Singer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Singeing-machine tender. (See Singer.) Classified as: Singers. Single piler. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers. Size hauler. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Size maker mixes together and boils materials necessary to make preparation known as “ size” used for starching or filling cloth goods to give it body and weight. Classified as: Other employees. Skein-goods packer. (See Packer.) Classified as: Packers. Skein-goods receiving opener opens up bales of skein yam received at converting plant for dyeing, etc.; checks contents and distributes it to proper department. Classified as: Openers. Skein winder. (See Reel winder.) Classified as: Yam winders. Skein-yarn boiler-off. (See Boil-off man, skein yam.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Skein-yarn drier places skeins of yarn on a pole and lays a number of poles on a rack. Rolls entire rack into drying oven. Classified as: Other employees. Skein-yarn dyer. (See Dyer, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees. Skein-yarn finisher. (See Finisher, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees. Skein-yarn mercerizer. (See Hanger man, yarn mercerizing.) Classified as: Other employees. Sketch maker uses sketch camera to make enlarged sketches of cloth patterns pre pared by designer. This camera consists of lenses, reflector, and strong electric light. Design is put into camera and when light is turned on reflection of design is thrown on a flat surface or table. Instrument can be adjusted so as to throw an image increased any number of times size of original (5 times being usual). Sketch maker places on table flat sheet of zinc, usually about a foot square, the surface of which is painted white. When room is darkened, enlargement of design is reflected very clearly on this white surface. Sketch maker traces design in pencil on zinc, then takes zinc plate back to drawing table where he smooths out lines and corrects imperfections that are brought out in enlargement. Also outlines every different color and shade; may even rearrange repeats of design on approval of overseer. Plate is then ready for plate cutter. Classified as: Other employees. Skying watcher, warp oxidizing, watches warp while it is being oxidized, after it has been through dye vat, to detect any break or other accident. Classified as: Other employees. Soap mixer fills large mixing tanks with water and measures in definite quantities of powdered soap, soda ash, and other ingredients, as directed by foreman. Tanks are mechanically agitated and mixer has control of this mechanism. Soap solution when ready is drawn off by gravity. Classified as: Soap mixers. Soap-mixer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees Soap reclaimer uses chemicals to reclaim soap from solutions that have been used in finishing processes of cloth. Classified as: Other employees. Soaper tender runs an open soaper machine in which cloth is soaped, washed, and treated with a “ fixing” agent after it is printed. Tender fills becks with proper liquor, starts and stops machine, sees that cloth is running through smoothly, and oils, cleans, and repairs machine. Machine consists of a series of 5 or 6 vats called “ becks” set fairly close together and just wide enough to give one width of cloth a thorough immersion. On back edge of each beck is a pair of bowls, one brass and the other of rubber, used to squeeze out the liquor before it goes to the next, and inside each beck are guide rollers and a beater to agitate the liquor and throw it against cloth. Contents of becks vary with kind of work, but usually fixing agent is in first, water in second, soap in third and fourth, and water in fifth and sixth. Steam can be injected to heat liquor if necessary. Cloth goes through in a continuous sheet from one beck to the next, being squeezed between each and finally passes to a set of dry cans where it is dried and plaited down on trucks. Classified as: Soaper tenders. Sorter, cloth stock. (See Assorter, cloth stock; also Seconds sorter.) Classified as: Other employees. 68 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Sorter, remnants. (See Remnant man.) Classified as: Other employees. Sour-bleaching plaiter. (See Plaiter.) Classified as: Plaiters. Spare hand, cloth printing, acts as a general all-round assistant to printer, doing heavy and dirty work connected with cloth printing. Assists back tender to set up rolls of cloth and to take down color boxes and brushes at night. Rubs excess color off brushes into proper pans, empties colors into tubs, and trucks pans and brushes out to be washed. Washes floor around machine each night. Classified as: Other employees. Spare hand, general, is a general worker with considerable experience on various kinds of work who fills in for absent workers or performs extra work wherever needed. May do heavy lifting, trucking, etc. Classified as: Other em ployees. Spare piler. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers. Spiral dye-beck tender runs a spiral dye-beck machine with curved bottom trough or beck, usually about 5 or 6 feet long. Machine is used to dye cloth in rope form. It is led in at one end and passes in a spiral to the other end, receiving as many dips as are necessary. Surplus cloth is left in bottom as it passes through to allow for a longer immersion. Cloth is run through squeeze rollers to remove the excess dye. See also Dyeing-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders. Splitter, warp, separates or splits ends of warp after it has been dyed, by grouping a certain number of threads or ends together according to pattern as required for each loom beam on which it is wound. Classified as: Other employees. Spool winder. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Spot washer. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Sprinkler tender operates cloth-winding machine equipped with a dewing or sprinkling device which sprays cloth with water as it is being wound on rolls. Sprinkling is an important step, since it is essential that cloth has proper amount of moisture to receive desired finish at calender. Rolls of wound cloth, after sprinkling, are allowed to stand a specified time before being set up to calender machine. See also Batcher, cloth winder. Classified as: Sprinkler tenders. Stamper, cloth, trade mark, uses a woodcut or other stamping device with ink-pad to print trade mark or emblems on top fold of each cut of cloth, taking care to place it in proper position, or may use inkpot, brush, and stencil for this pur pose. Classified as: Other employees. Standard color maker. (See Color mixer.) Classified as: Color mixers. Starch boiler. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Starch maker. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Starch mangle drier. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Starch mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Starch mixer. (See Size maker.) Classified as: Other employees. Starch mixer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Starch pourer watches starch box of mangle and keeps it filled with proper amount of starch solution. Classified as: Other employees. Steamer boss, working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Steamer tender has charge of the pressure steamers, which are large cylindrical iron chambers used for steaming cloth for longer periods than required by ager. Keeps accurate check on time that each batch of cloth is in steamer; maintains steam to certain pressure; every 15 minutes must operate device on outside of each steamer which turns over rods on inside of cylinder on which cloth is loaded, thus avoiding “ rod marking” of cloth. Cloth is loaded into this steamer by rodmen. Cloth is steamed from 1 to 2 hours. Classified as: Steamer tenders. Steel-cylinder turner. (See Steel turner.) Classified as: Other employees. Steel turner operates specially devised lathe to turn steel dies and mills down to proper size, and also to turn off steel surface on mill outside design to make design stand out clearly. Operator places steel stock in lathe, adjusts cutting tools, and turns power on and off. After piece is turned down to a given size, may also smooth its surface. Classified as: Other employees. Stenciler uses inkpot and stencil cut-out forms to print on each bale, box, or case for shipment its contents, name and address of shipper, as well as to whom consigned. Classified as: Other employees. Stitcher, cloth pieces, sews together the ends of successive packs of cloth in various departments, or stitches strings to cloth on which tags are hung. See also Sewer. Classified as: Sewers. APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 69 Stock opener, cloth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified as: Openers. Stockman, cloth, supervises work in cloth storeroom, maintains records of quan tity on hand and how distributed, and sees that it is segregated according to style, color, weight, etc., looks after filling of orders or making up cases and may assist in this work. Classified as: Other employees. Stockman, colors. (See Color stockman.) Classified as: Other employees. Stockman, dry drugs. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees. Stockman, engraved rollers. (See Shell-room man, engraved rollers.) Classified as: Other employees. Stockman, supplies, supervises work of unpacking supplies, such as brooms, brushes, machine parts, etc., storing them in bins or other specified places; looks after their distribution, maintaining records of stocks on hand and how distributed, and may also assist in this work. Classified as: Other employees. Storekeeper. (See Stockman, supplies.) Classified as: Other employees. Strainer, colors, squeezes through cloth strainer into tubs colors, paste, etc., which were measured out by color mixer. This is done by twisting end of cloth, forcing liquor through. Usually strains only a few dipperfuls at a time but sometimes a tubful is strained at once by means of a screw device which forces liquor through small eye by turning hand crank. Cloth is fastened to end of screw. Liquor is strained to remove lumps or hard susbtances of any kind. Classified as: Other employees. Straw boss is responsible for correct performance of work done by specific group of employees and regularly works with them. Classified as: Other employees. Stretcher, cloth. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Supply man. (See Stockman, supplies.) Classified as: Other employees. Swatch folder marks and folds a piece of cloth so that sample cutter can get greatest number of samples out of it with least possible waste. Sample cutters sometimes do this work. Classified as: Other employees. Sweeper uses brush or broom to gather up waste and dirt from floors of plant and places it in receptacle for removal. Classified as: Other employees. Swing-folder tender. (See Swing tender.) Classified as: Swing tenders. Swing tender watches cloth, keeps it packed down and properly arranged as it comes from back of any machine where swing-folding attachment is used, thus folding it loosely on truck; moves each full truck away and replaces it with an empty one, tearing off cloth to start a new batch. Machine consists of drag and guide rollers and arms that swing back and forth as cloth is delivered to truck. Classified as: Swing tenders. Table worker does wrapping, tagging, marking, etc., of cuts of cloth, making them ready for shipment. See also Wrapper, cloth; Ticketer; Stamper, cloth trade mark. Classified as: Other employees. Tacker, folded cloth. (See Knotter.) Classified as : Knotters. Tagger, cloth. (See Ticketer.) Classified as: Other employees. Taper, folded cloth. (See Paper taper, folded cloth.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Tearer, cloth for sheets, tears by hand from rolls of cloth pieces of specified length or size for sheets or pillowcases which are to be hemmed. Classified as: Other employees. Tenter feeder. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Tenter-frame boss, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other em ployees. Tenter-frame clipper operates tenter frame that has hand clips in place of auto matic clips. This feeder closes clips by hand on the selvage of the cloth. This type of machine requires two employees working together. (See also Tenterframe tender. Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Tenter-frame feeder. (See Tenter-frame tender.) Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Tenter-frame foreman, working. (See Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Tenter-frame tender feeds cloth into tentering machine, which stretches it by means of pins or clips on two endless chains, which grip selvage of cloth and operate along each side of machine, beginning narrow and diverging as they move along, gradually stretching cloth to desired width, and keeps it thus stretched while it is being dampened and dried after dyeing or starching. Tender sets roll of cloth on unwinding spindle, threads end of cloth through tension rollers, over endless band of clips or pins and so to delivery end of 70 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 machine where clips are automatically released; assists by hand engagement of edge of cloth by pins or clips (some machines are equipped with automatic guides, and may also be equipped with special mechanical movement of clip chains to restore warp and filling to its correct shape); adjusts by screws position of pins or clips to determine width of cloth; sometimes also regulates passage of steam through drying pipes or temperature in hot-air drying chamber. Classified as: Tenter-frame tenders. Tenter-machine tailer removes trucks loaded with rolls of finished cloth from delivery end of the tentering machine and replaces them with empty ones. Classified as: Other employees. Tester, cloth shrinking, puts samples of shrunken cloth through laundry and returns them to shrinking-machine tender for his inspection and approval. See also Sanforize tester. Classified as: Other employees. Tester, laboratory. (See Laboratory tester.) Classified as: Other employees. Tester, sanforizing. (See Sanforize tester.) Classified as: Other employees. Third hand is a general utility man who assists second hand in supervising work which is being done by other employees. Classified as: Other employees. Throw-outs handler. (See Grader, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Ticket maker. (See Ticketer.) Classified as: Other employees. Ticket printer. (See Printer, tickets.) Classified as: Other employees. Ticketer uses rubber stamp and ink-pad to stamp style number, yardage, quality, etc., on tags and pasters and pastes them on cloth or sews a tag onto selvage. Each cut of cloth must be properly marked before it goes to packing room. Classified as: Other employees. Tie-band painter cleans metal tie-bands which were cut from incoming bales of cloth, and dips them in vats of paint so that they may again be used. Classified as: Other employees. Tie-band salvager. (See Salvager, bagging; also Tie-band painter.) Classified as Other employees. Tommy Dodd mangle tender operates a mangle known as “ Tommy Dodd.” See also Mangle tender. Classified as: Mangle tenders. Touch-up man, printed cloth, uses brush by hand with paints of various colors to touch up and correct defects in printed designs on cloth. Classified as: Other employees. Transfer man, trucking. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Transfer operator. (See Pantographer.) Classified as: Other employees. Trimmer, window shades. (See Window-shade trimmer.) Classified as: Other employees. Truck operator. (See Electric trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Truck operator's helper rides power truck to and from various departments of plant to help operator load and unload supplies, colors, chemicals, cloth rolls, etc. Classified as: Other employees. Trucker uses hand or power truck to convey colors, chemicals, supplies, materials, or rolls or cuts of cloth from one department to another or from one section of department to another. Classified as: Truckers. Tub cleaner. (See Tub washer.) Classified as: Tub washers. Tub washer uses hand brush with warm water in large sink to wash color and other substances from wooden tubs used for color liquors in mixing and printing rooms. Classified as: Tub washers. Tube handler is stationed at each end of a continuous steamer. One puts brass tubes from which cloth is suspended in steamer in proper place so they will drop into position automatically; the other picks them up as they are discharged at other end of steamer, and puts them on conveyor which carries them back to going-in end. Atmosphere around machine is hot and humid and tubes are hot. Men wear asbestos packs to protect their hands. Classified as: Other employees. Turner-steamer tender. (See Steamer tender.) Classified as: Steamer tenders. Two-end piier. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers. Tying-machine operator, cloth, bolts, places each bolt or hand-folded parcel of cloth on a tying machine where a tape is automatically wrapped around it and tied to hold cloth in shape folded. See also Bander, cloth, bolts. Classified as: Other employees. Typesetter sets type on small press mold used for printing numbers on samples. See also Printer, tickets. Classified as: Other employees. Utility man does general work about plant, such as relieving operators, helping others, etc., working under the direction of foremen or their assistants. Classi fied as: Other employees. APPENDIX.— OCCUPATIONAL TERMS AND DEFINITIONS 71 Varnisher, rollers. (See Roller varnisher.) Classified as: Other employees. Vat tender, warp dyeing, operates mechanical devices used for dyeing warp yarn; starts and stops machines, opens and closes valves which supply dye liquids, water, etc., to vats; watches warp to see that it is running properly through vats and various squeeze rollers, and if it tangles or end breaks, must stop machine and call section hand to fix it. When warp is completely run through, takes it off warp racks and places it on truck and shifts empty warp rollers to balling apparatus and starts new warp. When warp or chain yarn is started through, it must be run until finished. Classified as: Other employees Wagon roller. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. Warehouseman, bale opening, doth. (See Opener, bales, cloth.) Classified ass Openers. Warp boiler. (See Box tender, warp boiling.) Classified as: Other employees. Warp coiler. (See Coiler, warp.) Classified as: Other employees. Warp drier. (See Dry-can man, warp.) Classified as: Other employees. Warp dyer. (See Vat tender, warp dyeing.) Classified as: Other employees. Washer bossf working. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Washer, brushes. (See Brush washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Washer, color-bag strainer. (See Bag washer, color straining.) Classified as: Other employees. Washer, color boxes. (See Color-box washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Washer feeder. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Washer, oil spots. (See Oil-spot washer.) Classified as: Other employees. Washer tender runs washing machine or saturating tank to wet cloth in prepara tion for bleaching or to wash out chemicals or other foreign substances after various processes. Keeps machine threaded with a leader and ties cloth to it when ready to start. Turns on liquor in machine and draws it off when through. Has control over starting and stopping and looks after oiling and cleaning of machine; sees that cloth is running through smoothly and stops machine or otherwise takes care of the situation if anything goes wrong. Machine con sists of a vat or tub to hold liquor with various sets of rollers to draw cloth through and squeeze out excess liquor. Cloth is guided into and out of liquor in successive dips and excess liquor is squeezed out between each dip. Classified as: Washer tenders. Washer, tubs. (See Tub washer.) Classified as: Tub washers. Waste collector. (See Rag man.) Classified as: Other employees. Waste man, bagging. (See Salvager, bagging.) Classified as: Other employees. Watcher, steamer windows, watches attentively through a glass window in side of large continuous cloth steamer to see that cloth, folds over rods properly. One watcher is stationed at going-in end of steamer, to see that rods go in and cloth folds start correctly. Another is stationed at other end to see that they come out properly. Each man watches at one end of two steamers. If any thing goes wrong, he calls second hand's attention to it. Classified as: Other employees. Water boxman, washing. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. Water-mangle tender. (See Mangle tender.) Classified as: Mangle tenders. Waterproofer runs machine which uses waterproofing liquid instead of dye for impregnating cloth. See also Padding-machine tender. Classified as: Dyeingmachine tenders. Water pumper. (See Pumper, water.) Classified as: Other employees. Weighman, cloth, piles cuts or rolls of cloth that are to be nailed, packed, or burlapped, onto scales in various departments, weighs them and calls off weight and number of yards in each to an adding-machine operator, booker, or record clerk. Classified as: Other employees. Weighman, dry drugs. (See Dry-drug man.) Classified as: Other employees. Wet finisher, cloth. (See Shrinking-machine operator, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Wetter out. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. White-roll man, trucking. (See Trucker.) Classified as: Truckers. White souring washer, cloth. (See Washer tender.) Classified as: Washer tenders. White-washer piler. (See Piler.) Classified as: Pilers. Winder, boiling off. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers, cloth winders. 72 DYEING AND FINISHING OF TEXTILES, 1932 Winder, cloth, bolts, winds cloth in flat form in specified length*, 25 to 45 yard?, as desired by trade. Machine consists principally of two adjustable steel blades which hold board 6 or 8 inches wide, and as long as cloth is wide, around which cloth winds. Operator draws end of cloth over two blades of machine and turns it under one to hold it while starting; throws a lever to start and stop machine, and when each bolt is complete slides folded cloth off of blades, which are collapsible. Sometimes a cardboard is placed between two blades so that cloth is wound on it, though often cloth is wound without board. As cloth comes from machine it is flat, and these folds are known as “ bolts.” Operator usually pastes a sticker on cloth showing yardage, which is automatically recorded by machine. Classified as: Other employees. Winder, clothj rolls. (See Batcher, cloth winder.) Classified as: Batchers, cloth winders. Winder, from skeins. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Winder, from spools. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Winder, skeins. (See Reel winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Winder, yarn. (See Yarn winder.) Classified as: Yarn winders. Window-shade trimmer operates machine which trims edges of window-shade cloth to specific widths. Classified as: Other employees. Working boss. (See Straw boss; also Working foreman.) Classified as: Other employees. Working foreman performs duties of a supervisory nature in connection with specific kind of work or in specific department; also does productive work in connection therewith. Inspects product while in process and may keep special records of same. Classified as: Other employees. Wrapper, cloth, wraps certain kinds of cloth goods in paper after it has been wound into bolts or folded and banded, also ties up package, pastes on outside a sample of cloth and a sticker, showing style, yardage, lot number, etc. Cloth is then ready to be packed and shipped. Classified as: Other employees. Yardage booker. (See Adding-machine operator, cloth room; also Booker, cloth.) Classified as: Other employees. Yardage caller calls style and number of yards in each piece of cloth which goes to make up each bale or box of cloth for shipment. These items are recorded by an adding-machine operator or booker. Classified as: Other employees. Yardage-machine operator. (See Measurer.) Classified as: Measurers. Yarder. (See Measurer.) Classified as: Measurers. Yarding machine fixer. (See Fixer, general; also Millwright.) Classified as: Other employees. Yarn beam dyer. (See Beam dyer, yarn.) Classified as: Other employees. Yarn boiler-offy skeins. (See Boil-off man, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees. Yarn dyer, skeins. (See Dyer, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees. Yarn finisher, skeins. (See Finisher, skein yarn.) Classified as: Other employees Yarn mercerizer, skeins. (See Hanger man, yarn mercerizing.) Classified as: Other employees. Yarn winder operates any one of various machines used to wind yarn from skeins onto cones, quills, spools, etc., after mercerizing, dyeing, or other process, when this work is done in skein form. Operator watches to see that yarn is winding correctly; removes full cones, quills, or spools; replaces them with empty ones; supplies full skeins when needed; ties up broken ends and unites these ends when empty skeins are replaced with full ones, or full spools, cones, etc., are replaced with empty ones, sometimes using a hand-operated mechanical device to tie these knots. Classified as: Yarn winders. Zinc-plate cutter. (See Plate cutter, employees. Zinc-plate painter. (See Plate painter.) cloth designs.) Classified as: Classified as: Other Other employees.