View original document

The full text on this page is automatically extracted from the file linked above and may contain errors and inconsistencies.

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR
JAMES J. DAVIS, Secretary

BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS
ETHELBERT STEWART, Commissioner

BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES\
BUREAU OF LABOR S T A T IS T IC S / * * * *
WAGES

AND

HOURS

OF

LABOR

{No. 360
SERIES

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANU­
FACTURING 100 PAIRS OF SHOES
1923




JULY, 1924

WASHINGTON
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
1924




ADDITIONAL COPIES
O F T H IS P U B L IC A T IO N M A Y B E P R O C U R E D F R O M
T H E S U P E R IN T E N D E N T O F D O C U M E N T S
G O V E R N M E N T P R IN T IN G O FFICE
W A S H IN G T O N , D . C.
AT-

20 CENTS PER COPY

CONTENTS.

Time and labor costs in manufacturing 100 pairs of shoes, 1923:
Introduction____________________________________________________
Cost by district, establishment, and operation ___________________
Selected operations and departments, by establishment___________
Parts purchased, establishment, and operation___________________
Appendix A.— Time and labor costs in making 100 pairs of shoes, by the
hand method in 1863 and by the machine method in 1895__________
Appendix B.— Time and labor costs in making 100 pairs of shoes in
1916-...................................................




h i

Page.

1-4
4-124
125-131
132-140
141-149
150-154




BULLETIN OF THE

U. S. BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS
NO. 360

WASHINGTON

JULY, 1924

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANUFACTURING
100 PAIRS OF SHOES, 1923.
INTRODUCTION.

This report presents time and labor costs in the production of
100 pairs of shoes of a specified style and average hourly wages or
earnings of shoe workers for each of the operations in each of the
departments of the modern shoe manufacturing establishment,
and for the factory as a whole, and also shows for each operation the
number of pairs of shoes on which such work could be completed in
one hour, assuming that the employees would work at the same speed
during the hour as they did during the time required for the 100 pairs
of shoes.
The figures in this report were computed from detailed time and
labor cost reports carefully compiled during the summer of 1923 and
furnished, as requested, to the Bureau of Labor Statistics by rep­
resentative shoe manufacturing establishments located in 9 of the
important shoe-producing States, namely, Massachusetts, New York,
Missouri, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, Maine, Illinois,
and Virginia.
Sixteen detailed reports were furnished covering the manufacture
of men’s shoes, 14 o f which were for high shoes and 2 for oxfords;
27 reports were received for women’s shoes, *24 of which were for low
shoes and 3 for high shoes. Twenty-six of these reports were for
shoes manufactured by the Goodyear welt method and 17 were for
shoes manufactured by the McKay method.
The operations and departments in the modern shoe factory, as
shown in the tables of this report, emphasize the minute specifica­
tions as well as the- specialization of work in the manufacture of
shoes, the careful and efficient organization, the many different em­
ployees through whose hands a shoe passes in the process of manu­
facture, the comparatively short time consumed in performing
each operation on a pair of shoes, and the very small labor cost not
only for each operation but for all the operations necessary in the
manufacture of a pair of shoes.
The work of the sole-leather department is divided into cutting
and preparation of outsoles, insoles, counters, heels, etc. Many of
the establishments covered in this report purchase the various soleleather parts from establishments specializing in the production
of such parts. By the inclusion of data drawn from reports obtained




1

2

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANUFACTURING SHOES.

from representative establishments engaged in the manufacture and
sale of sole-leather parts, complete time and labor costs and other
figures are presented for all work necessary in the manufacture of
shoes. For figures covering establishments engaged in the manu­
facture and sale of sole-leather parts only, see pages 132 to 140.
For each department of the factory, operations are given as far as
possible in the order in which the work is performed. At the end of
ea.ch department are shown “ general work,” and “ organization.”
“ General work” represents work of a miscellaneous character, while
“ organization” represents work of foremen and assistant foremen.
Costs and other data for clerks, superintendents, managers, watch­
men, and power-house employees are not included. The column
“ time cost” shows the time in minutes required for one person to
perform the operation on 100 pairs of shoes. The “ labor cost” is
the amount paid for the work done in the time indicated in the
time-cost column.
The manufacturers from whom statements were obtained used
different methods in arriving at time and labor cost for each opera­
tion necessary in the manufacture of 100 pairs of shoes.
In all sections of the country where shoes are manufactured to any
extent, a large per cent of the operations are paid for at piece rates.
The rate, o f course, varies with the style of the shoe and as between
different factories. The sum total of all piece-rate costs for the
work on a particular shoe in each department, plus the propor­
tionate amount chargeable for time work, operators and foremen
and general workers, paid weekly rates, constitute the labor cost
for that department. By combining the costs for the various depart­
ments of the factory the entire labor cost was obtained for the shoe.
The piece rate (money cost) per case (one to four dozen pairs) for
each operation and for all operations combined was converted to an
equivalent cost figure for 100 pairs.
Approximately 17 per cent of the factories covered by this study
had records of time cost and furnished the desired information from
such records. In approximately 10 per cent a man was detailed
from the cost department to use a stop watch to arrive at the time
ordinarily used by the selected average worker in the performance of
each operation on a certain number of shoes, while tune figures for
approximately 65 per cent of the plants were obtained by having each
operator on a lot of shoes (usually four cases) indicate on a memo­
randum furnished by this bureau the amount of time spent on each
operation on the lot.
In the remaining establishments, where complete time-clock rec­
ords for both time and pieceworkers were available, the total hours
worked and total earnings at each occupation during a representative
pay period were used in arriving at an average earning rate per hour.
In these establishments the time cost was computed from the piece rate
and the average earnings per hour for each operation. Example: If
the piece rate for slugging heels is 35 cents per case of 36 pairs, and
the average hourly earnings for this occupation is 70 cents, the time
cost is 30 minutes for 36 pairs. The time cost of each operation in
each particular lot of shoes was then converted to an equivalent
tim e-cost figure for 100 pairs.




INTRODUCTION*

3

Both money-labor cost and time-labor cost shown in this report
for organization (foremen and assistants) and other general workers
paid on a weekly basis were obtained from the average weekly pro­
duction for the entire factory and the combined hours and wage
rate for each of such employees. If there was more than one worker
employed at any of the miscellaneous occupations, all were included.
For example: If in a factory whose average output was 10,000 pairs
of all kinds of shoes per week the foreman in the cutting department
was paid $75 per week of 48 hours (2,880 minutes), the labor cost
would be 75 cents and the time cost 28.8 minutes for 100 pairs. In
case* there were three foremen in this department receiving the same
rate the labor cost would be $2.25 and the time cost 86.4 minutes.
The Bureau of Labor Statistics, beginning with the Nineteenth
Annual Report (1904) of the Commissioner of Labor, and ending
with Bulletin No. 324 (March, 1923), has published many reports
on wages and hours of labor of employees in boot and shoe manu­
facturing. In the Thirteenth Annual Report (pp. 540 to 550), pub­
lished in 1899, time and labor costs are presented for each operation
in the manufacture of shoes by the hand method in 1863 ana by the
machine method in 1895. This appears as Appendix A of this
bulletin. In Bulletin No. 232 (pp. 165 to 169), published by this
bureau in 1918, are presented like cost figures in the manufacture of
100 pairs of men’s snoes in 1916. This has been made Appendix B
of the present bulletin.
Comparing the 1916 cost figures (Appendix B) with the 1923
figures of the same establishment (pp. 5-8) it is found that the time
cost in 1923 is 25.1 per cent less than in 1916, while the labor cost in
1923 is 48.5 per cent more than in 1916. The decrease in the time
cost has no doubt been accomplished by the introduction of more
effective machinery and by more efficient organization, while the great
increase in labor cost is due to increased basic wage rates and the
reduction of hours of work. Appendix A shows that to produce
100 pairs of shoes by the hand method in 1863 required 1,831 hours
and 40 minutes and that the labor cost for these was $458.19. The
same number of similar shoes were made in 1895 by the machine
method in 236 hours and 6 minutes, the labor cost being $59.55.
In comparing the productivity and labor costs in these periods it
is well to note a few of the important changes incident to the growth
of this important industry. The production of boots and shoes in
the United States was started in a small way by the primitive shoe­
maker who worked at the bench in his own home, making shoes to
order-for the community, and the itinerant shoemaker who trav­
eled from village to village, carrying his tools on his back, doing re­
pair work and often contracting to shoe an entire family (the work
might take a week or longer, the contract including his entertain­
ment) ; next came the small shop which accommodated three or four
workmen, followed closely by the primitive factory, in which much
of the work was still done by hand, and which had an output of
only a few pairs per day. The modern factory of to-day with its
power-driven machinery can turn out 75,000 pairs every workday
in the year. This marvelous change, which is due in a large measure
to the introduction of machinery, has taken place within a period of
about 65 years.




4

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANUFACTURING SHOES.

For more than 600 years prior to 1858, when the McKay sewing
machine was introduced, the methods of shoe making were not greatly
improved. The list of machines invented, which followed closely the
introduction of the McKay machine, goes well into the thousands,
and the inventions by which these were improved are almost number­
less. Steam power was first introduced to run shoe machinery in
1863, gas engines in 1885, and electric motors in 1889. Another great
factor instrumental in lowering time costs has been the division of
labor, whereby the various operations necessary for the construction
of a shoe, theretofore usually performed by one man, were diyided
among several workmen, each doing one particular part.
It soon became a well-established fact that some workers were
unusually proficient in certain operations, some in cutting, others
in preparing the soles, fastening them to the uppers, etc. By this
constant attention to a particular part of the shoe, the worker
was able to accomplish much more in a given length of time and to
do that work better and with less effort than when making the
entire shoe. This division of labor continued to increase, and in a
much larger degree, after the introduction of machinery. At the
present time there are between two and three hundred different
operations on a shoe (depending on the method of construction), and
in many large establishments each operation is performed by a
different employee.
One other means of lowering time costs has been the proper arrange­
ment of the several departments so as to form an unbroken chain
in performing the various operations, all following in one direction
throughout the factory. This is usually accomplished by locating
on the top floor of the factory the upper-cutting department, where
the various parts of the upper portion of the shoe are cut and then
sent to the next floor below to be stitched together to form the upper.
These stitched uppers then go to the lasting department, where they
are pulled over the last and united with certain parts sent there from
the sole-leather department. . These assembled shoes then continue
on to the bottoming, finishing, treeing, packing, and shipping depart­
ments, arranged in the order named, except the sole-leather depart­
ment, which is usually located in the basement because of the heavy
material and the heavy machinery necessary in the cutting and prep­
aration of the soles and heels. Thus it is seen that the raw material
for the upper is started on the top floor of the factory, continues down
through the various departments, and ends on the first floor in the
packing department as a completed shoe, ready for- shipment.
COST BY DISTRICT, ESTABLISHMENT, AND OPERATION.

The figures in the following table are presented separately for each
of three geographical districts: (1) New England— including Maine,
Massachusetts, and New Hampshire; (2) Central Atlantic States—
including New York, Pennsylvania, and Virginia; and (3) Mid-west
States—including Illinois, Missouri, and Ohio.




5

ESTABLISHMENT NO. 1,

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION.
NEW E N G LA N D D IS T R IC T .
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 —

Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single
sole, leather heel with rubber top lift.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Sort leather..............................................................................
Put up jobs for cutters________________________________
_____________
Cut vamp, top, tip,
Cut backstays, hand__________ 1.......................................
Inspect cut parts______________________________________
Case up euttparts_________ ; __________________________
Sort upper leather remnants__________________________
Cut eyelet facings, hand_______________________ ____
Cut leather top facings, hand
Skive eyelet facings_I________ _______________ ________
Sort and case eyelet facings
.. .. .
Case heel stays'________ ____________________ _____ _
Cut cloth linings, machine____________________________
Case cloth linings_____________________________________
Cut vamp doublers, machine_________________________
Case vamp doublers__________________________________
Cut top doublers, machine__________________________ _

Case top doublers

Cut vamp patches_____ _________________ ____________
Cut felt heel pads, machine_____ _____ ___ _____ _____
Sort felt heel pads................................... ............................
Stamp linings.........................................................................
Match up linings____ _______________________ _____ ___
Mark vamps for tips............. ...............................................
Mark tops for vamp lap________ ____ _________________
Perforate lace row
____
__ _ _ _
. ___ __ _
Skive tips.____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____ _____________
Punch tips____________ ______________ _______ ________
Skive vamps at cut off__________ _______ _____________
Perforate vamps. ___________ __________________ ______
Skive vamps at heel and throat........ ........... ....................
Skive tongues..........................................................................
Skive tops, narrow at back and bottom............................
Skive tops for folding___ _ _ _ ___ _________
Organization............................................................................
Total.............................................................................

15.000
$0,158
.053
4.400
4.460
325.000
and tongue, machine
.330
50.000
.417
33.000
25.000
.125
32.600
.250
42.000
.292
.110
14.000
5,800
.046
14.700
.077
.041
6.600
.034
2.500
11.000
.080
1.100
.015
3.000
.023
1.900
.026
3.600
.027
.500
.009
.400
.005
2.400
.019'
11.700
.083
28.000
.146
15.000
.083
9.200
.053
54.500
.167
10.000
.063
20.000
.083
10.000
.063
53.500
.333
20.000
.125
2.770
.023
23.800
.177
21.700
.167
21:820
.340

Hourly
wages.

$0.632
.723
.823
.396
.758
.300
.460
.417
.471
.476
.314
.373
.816
.436
.818
.460
.821
.450
1.080
.750
.475
.426
.313
.332
.346
.184
.378
.249
.378
.373
.375
.498
.446
:462
.935

896.490

8.503

21.820

.333
.585
.209
.522
.115
.208
. 125
.292
.167
.167
.219
.063
.115
.345
.209
.543
1.417
.282
.125
.125
. 115
.250
2.910
.104
.833
.260

.333
.349
.314
.376
.294
.292
.292
.398
.388
.388
.313
.350
.394
.376
.293
.376
.417
.604
.346
.361
.375
.383
.541
.339
.375
.715

1,554.936

10.638

.411

400.00
1,363.64
18.46
120.00
181.82
240.00
184.05
142.86
428.57
1,034.48
408.16
909.09
2,400.00
545.45
5,454.55
2,000.00
3,157.89
1,666.67
12,000.00
15,000.00
2,500.00
512.82
214.29
400.00
652.17
110.09
600.00
300.00
600.00
112.15
300.00
2,166.06
252.10
276.50
274.98

.569

60.000
100.500
40.000
83.333
23.500
42.800
25.700
44.000
25.800
25.800
42.000
10.800
17.500
55.000
42.800
86.750
204.000
28.000
21.700
20.800
18.400
39.200
323.000
18.400

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

ST IT C H IN G D E P A R T M E N T .

Stitch cloth heel stay __

_ _
_

_ _ ____

Stitch eyelet facing...............................^...............................
Stitch top facing___ ____ ___________ _____ ___________
Stitch lace row perforation........ ........................ .............
Paste vamp patch____________________________________
Double vamp_____ : _______________________ _____ ____
Double top______ ___________ _____ ___________________
Stitch tips............................................... ...............................
Close vamps______________ ____ _______ ___________ . . .
Stay vamps_______________ _____ _________ ___________
•
Close tops......... .......................................... ..........................
Rub down back seams_______ _______ _____ ____ ______
Cement tops for folding............................... .......... ............
Fold tops, machine.— ...................................... ...................
Paste eyelet stays_____________ _____________ _________
Stitch backstays .......... ..................... .................. .................
Stitch tops (undertrim)_______________________________
Eyelet invisible eyelets ..................................... .................
Stain edges........... ..................................................................
Lace, machine, 4 holes________________________________
Lace, machine, 1 hole_________________________________
Seam lining at toe____________________________________

Vamp 2-needle space rows

Size out uppers_ ____________________ _____ ______ _
_

Cripple and general work _

_
_

Organization____ _______ ____________________ ____ ___

Total_____




133.333

100.00

59.70
150.00
72.00
255.32
14a 19
233.46
136.36
232.56
232.56
142.86
555.56
342.86
109.09
140.19
69.16
29.41
214.29
276.50
288.46

32a 09
153.06
18.58
326.09
45.00
274.98

6

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT,

T IM E A N D L A B O R COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
NEW

E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.

Establishment No. 1.— Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single
sole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Continued.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
Sort stack
_.
.. _ _
pile near machine
T. T _
.
_ _
Pile on machine _
Cut
Grade and skive _
Sort
Count
_
_
Put. away
_
____
Case_
_ _ _' _
Ship. _
__________________________________
General work__
.
.
Organization
__
_
____
______

Total___

_____

________

Counters:
C u t.___ _ ___ _
___________
_____ _
Grade and skive
__
_
___
___
__ ____ ______
Sort, flat
•
- __ _
Skive_____ •
...................
Trim ends
.
Temper..
_
f„
_ __
___ . ___
Roll
_
* _______
___
.
M o ld _________
_______________________________
Sort molded_
_
Put away_
Case__ _
General work
__
______
Ship
• _ _____
_______
__
___
Organization
___ —
Total___________________________________________
Box toe:
C u t.___ ____
_ ____
Skive
^T_
I
. _
Sort
__
_ __
Case.
Ship. _ ______
_______________
Organization

,

______
_ ___

________

Total . . . . . .

$0,533
.900
.480
.716
.480
.751
.545
.438
.637
.555
.265
1.047

.954

.646

31.900
10.190
14.710
1.440
5.090
1.730
11.985
4.520

.365
.068
.185
.015
.048
.015
.052
.063

.687
.400
.755
.625
.566
.520
.260
.836

81.565

Insoles:
Cut
............
__ _
Grade and skive
_
__
_______
___
Sort. _______
Put away
Case _ '
__
____________
Ship
_
___
General work_____________________________________
Organization _
_

$0,008
.006
.004
.400
.080
.210
.011
.019
.073
.016
.053
.074

90.755

Total

0.900
.400
.500
33.540
10.000
16.770
1.210
2.600
6.880
1.730
11.985
4.240

.811

.597

28.880
8.000
8.660
4.000
4.600
2.450
3.760
20.000

.292
.070
.090
.035
.040
.023
.034
.180

.607
.525
.624
.525
.522
.563
.543
.540

207.76
75a 00
692.84
1,500.00
1,30A35
2,448.98
1,595.74
300.00

A 810
.2 0 0
3 .4 0 0
3 .9 6 5
.45Q
5 .6 0 0

.0 4 5
.0 0 2
.0 3 4
.0 3 8
.0 0 4
.1 2 8

.5 6 1
.6 0 0
.6 0 0
.5 7 5
.5 3 3
1.371

1 ,2 4 7 .4 0
3 0 ,0 0 0 .0 0
1 , 76A 71
1 ,5 1 3 .2 4
1 3 ,3 3 3 .3 3
1 ,0 7 1 .4 3

9 8.7 75

1.015

.6 1 7

1 .4 8 0
A 060
2 .6 4 0
3 .5 6 0
.4 1 0
1.0 0 0

.0 1 5
.0 4 5
.0 2 2
.0 3 3
.0 0 3
.0 1 7

.6 0 8
.6 6 5
.5 0 0
.5 5 6
.4 3 9
1.0 2 0

13.150

.1 3 5

50.0 00
134.510
6 .5 0 0
7 .2 1 0
2 3.2 80
6 .7 5 0
1 0.000
3 .0 7 0
7 .4 2 0
3 .1 1 0
3 .6 4 0
.8 6 0
23.0 70
5 .5 5 0

.2 6 1
1.125
.0 4 5
.0 5 1
.2 2 0
.0 3 8
.0 6 3
.0 3 0
.0 6 2
.0 2 9
.0 3 4
.0 0 7
.1 7 7
.0 7 9

.3 1 3
.5 0 2
.4 1 5
.4 2 4
.5 6 7
.3 3 8
.3 7 8
.5 8 6
.50 1
.5 5 9
.5 6 0
.4 8 8
.4 6 0
.8 5 4

Total___________________________________________

28A970

2.221

.4 6 8

188.09
588.81
407.89
4,166.67
1,178.78
3,468.21
500.63
1,327.41

4 ,0 5 A 0 5
1 ,4 7 7 .8 3
2 ,2 7 2 .7 3
1 ,6 8 5 .3 9
1 4 ,6 3 A 15
6, 0 0 0 .00

.6 1 6

Heels (log base, with rand):
Make rands (cup grade, crimp, etc.)
__ _ _
Make logs (cup lifts, build logs, eta.) _
Saw log blanks __
_
____
Gouge log blanks
Tack rands _
__
_______
___
Butt rands _
____
Compress heelsBuff heels ____
_________ ____ ____
Sort heels
___
_
.
_ __ ___
Case heels_____ __
_
___
Case rubber top lifts
Ship heels and top lifts _
__
___ _
General work
- _
_ ____
Organization
_ _
_______

6,666.67
15.000.
12.000.
178.89
600.00
357.78
4.958.68
2.307.69
872.09
3,468.21
500.63
1,415.09




120.00
4A 61
923 .08
832 .18
257.73

888.89

600 .00
1 ,9 5 A 4 0
808 .63
1 ,9 2 9 .2 6
1 ,6 4 8 .3 5
6 ,9 7 6 .7 4
260 .08
1 ,0 8 1 .0 8

00
00

7

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 1 .

T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY D ISTR IC T, DEPA RTM E N T, AND OPERATION—Continued.
NEW EN G LAN D

D I S T R I C T — Continued.

Establishment No. 1 —Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single
sole, leather heel with ruober top lift—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Stock fitting:
Stamp size, outsoles____________________________
__________ _______ ________________
Scour outsoles
Shank outsoles____________________________ ____
Cement outsoles_______________________________
Wet ontsnlfiS__
Round insoles______________________ ___________
Stamp size, insoles_____________________________
Channel insoles
Cement lip, insoles_____________________________
Set lip, insoles _ ______ _________________ ____ ____
Form* gem duck, insoles_________________________ »
Trim lip, insoles_______________________________
Stamp insole welt line
Round down insole lip
___
Cripple work
”
_
General work__________________________________
Organization. __
Total...... .................................................................
Total, sole-leather department
.. .

5.850
8.330
13.330
8.330
8.330
11.650
11.700
34.200
14.200
27.500
32.500
25.000
11.700
15.000
3.300
6.825
3.240

$0,042
.063
.083
.063
.063
.115
.063
.323
.083
.178
.229
.157
.073
.104
.021
.058
.074

$0,431
.454
.374
.454
.454
.592
.323
.567
.351
.388
.423
.377
.374
.416
.382
.510
1.370

240.985
810. 200

1.792
6.928

.446
.513

18.000
19.500
23.400
23.200
8.200
68.750
116.000
118.750
240.000
21.800
21.820
679.420

.125
.136
.146
.177
.063
.573
1.210
1.112
2.500
.170
.350
6.562

.417
.418
.374
.458
.461
*500
.626
.562
.625
.468
.962
.579

333.33
307.69
256.41
258.62
731.71
87.27
51.72
50.53
25.00
275.23
274.98

19. 550
26.300
60.000
7.000
87.000
30.000
22.100
22.100
25. 150
27.400
21.700
27.300
15.000
11.250
28.800
60.000
172.500
7.500
28.700
25.000
28.700
14.130
19.450
50.000
50.000
50.000
50.000
21.800
5.000
53.500
34.200
25.000
34.000
115.000
35.000
21.820

.136
.146
.416
.042
1.182
.261
.178
.178
.178
.219
.135
.208
.083
.063
.250
.688
1.915
.042
.230
.157
.230
.083
.115
.553
.313
.553
.313
.146
.042
.445
.386
.219
.178
1.500
.303
.220

.417
.333
.416
.360
.815
.522
.483
.483
.420
.480
.373
.457
.332
.336
.521
.688
.666
.336
.481
.377
.481
.352
.355
.664
.376
.664
.376
.402
.504
.499
.677
.526
.314
.783
.519
.605

306.91
228.14
100.00
857.14
68.97
200.00
271.49
271.49
235.76
218.98
276.50
219.78
400.00
533.33
208.33
100.00
34.78
800.00
209.06
240.00
209.06
424.63
308.48

1,332.250

12.306

.554

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Case up lasts
...... _ ___
_ ....
_ . .
Put insoles, etc., on rack____________________________
Throw lasts in bin ____ ........
Tack insoles, machine
_ _ _
_
Chalk toes of lasts .
r...
__ _
...
Assemble
Pull over, machine, and slip in box toes______________
Side last machine
.
Operate bed machine _
...
Inspect.
__
_
_
Organization.....................................................................
Total
BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim toes _
T.. _
_
Staple uppers________________________ ____ ____ ____
Pull tacks.............................. ................................ ..........
Wet grooves _
Goodyear welt_____________________________________
Trim inseams, machine...... __
...... .
Butt welts________________________________________
Beat welts. _
Knock tacks, insoles_______________ ________________
Tack ends of welts_________________________________
Tack shanks
Fill bottoms
_
. ...
Cement bottoms.
_
. .. _
. _
_
Put outsoles on rack
_
... .
_ _ _ ..
Lay soles
_
___
. ___
. _
Rough round_
_ .
Goodyear stitch........................................................... .....
Wind bobbins _
Loose nail heel seats
. . . . _
Round heel seats .
__ ____
____
Level _
_
_ _
....
Cement heel bases (leather)
._
_ _
Cement top lifts (rubber)................................................
Heeling, leather base _
____
.
____
_ ____
Help heeler........................................................................
Heeling rubber top lift
____
____
Help heeler
__ ____
Inspect
.
.. ..
. .. ,
Cripple work
__
____
General work
.
... _
_
Trim heels . . .
__ ___ ____
Breast heels____
_______ ... __
_________
Fill heels
Trim edges____
________ _. _____
____
Knife-np (joint).
__
___
Organization
...
.. .
. _.
Total____________________________________




1,025.64
720.29
450.11
720.29
720.29
515.02
512.82
175.44
422.54
218.18
184.62
240.00
512.82
400.00
1,818.18
879.12
1,851.85

a

12 00

120.00
120.00
120.00
275.23
1,200.00
112.15
175.44
240.00
176.47
52.17
171.43
274.98
= = = S 9

8

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D D ISTRICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 .—

Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single
sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Totai___________________________________________
;

45.900
27.500
35.800
66.000
17.500
27.100
57.500
45.000
56.000
21.650
33.300
38.400
22.500
16.670
37.300
16.670
16.670
18.000
10.910

$0,438
.199
.303
.740
;125
.292
.646
.427
.673
.188
.261
.333
.167
.104
.261
.104
.115
.125
.110

$0,573
.434
.508
.673
.429
.646
.674
.569
.721
.521
.470
.520.
.445
.374
.420
.374
.414
.417
.605

610.370

5.611

.552

32.000
24.000
178.000
65.000
75.900
33.333
30.000
.25.900
11.700
3.330
20.000
18.000
10.910

.167
.136
1.540
.584
.542
.208
.208
.167
.083
.028
.178
.125
.110

528,073

Scour heels, first time.............................................................
Scour heel breasts...................................................................
Scour heels, second time........................................................
Set edges, first time................................... _..........................
■
; Stain heels................................................................................
Stain edges................................................................................
Set edges, second time...........................................................
Burnish heels........ .................................................................
.Scour bottoms.........................................................................
Dustand gum.............................................................. ..........
.Paint bottoms.........................................................................
Gum and brush bottoms.......................................................
Wax bottoms...........................................................................
. Cut lacing strings...................................................................
'.Pull lasts....................... .........................................................
Wheel bottoms and breasts..................................................
Brand bottoms........................................................................
General work...........................................................................
Organization............................................................................

4.076

.463

6,411.739

54.624

.511

130.72
218.18
167.60
90.91
342.86
221.40
104.35
. 133.33
107.14
277.14
180.18
156.25
266.67
359.93
160.86
359.93
359.93
333 .33

549.95

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Feeling for tacks....................................................................
Paste heel pads.............. .................. .................... ...............
Tree, hand................................................................................
Repair tan leather............................... ...................................
Dress..................................................... ..................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Brush heels and edges............................................................
Pack............. ; ................. .......................................................
Seal fiber cases............... ............................................. .........
Stamp fiber cases...................................................................
Ship.................................., .......................................................
General work.............................................. .............................
Organization.......................................I ...................................

Tntftl
Grand total______ ____
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

_______ ________

»

.313
.340
.519
.539
.428
.374
.416
. .387
.426
.505
.'534
.417
.605

187.50
250.00
33.71
92.31
79.05
180.00
200.00
231.66
512.82
1,801.80
300.00
3 33.33

549.95

3 —Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather
heel with rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Put up stock............................................................................
Die boy.........................................................—.........................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine...... .........................
Sort and case up.....................................................................
Cut cloth linings, machine.............................—...................
Mark linings............................................................................
Skive uppers...........................................................................
Perforate tips...........................................................................
Put up facings.........................................................................
Put up tongues and back stays...........................................
Mark vamps..........................................................................
Match marks............................................................ .............
Match up work.......................................................................
Crimp.......................................................................................
Tip stain...................................................................................
T)ay work ,
.
___
Organization............................................................................

6.250
15.625
480.208
62.500
29.167
11.458
135.417
9.375
18.750
26.042
5.208
31.250
5.208
26.042
7.292
16.000
33.333

$0,084
.098
6.483
.844
.394
.072
1.216
, 127.152
.203
.042
.164
.041
.203
.038
.140
.590

Total___________________________________________

919.125

10.891

.711

3.125
62.500
41.667
270.833
31.250
15.625
145.833

.019
.328
.246
1.875
.310
.178
1.000

.365
.315
.354
.415
.595
.684
.411

$0,806
.376
.810
.810
.8 1 0
. .377
—
,539
,8 1 3
.486
.468
.484
.315
.472
.468
.313
.525
1.062

960.00
384.00
12.49
96.00
205.71
523.65
44.31
640.00
320.00
230.40
1, 152.07
192.00
1, 152.07
230.40
822.82
375.90
180.00

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Check work.................... .................................... ..................
Double tops................... ........... ............. ............ .......... .......
Mark eyelet rows....................................................................
Stitch eyelet rows....................................................................
Seam tops.................................................................................
Rub down seams_______________:______________________
Backstay long blucher...........................................................




1, 920.00
96*00
144.00
22.15
192.00
384.00
41.14

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 3,

9

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 8 .—

Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather
heel with rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number •
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCH
ING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Trim tops ___________________________________________
Fold...........................................................................................
Hookstay and sort_________ _____ _______________ ____
H o ok ...’ ........ .................................... ....................................
Mark linings...........................................................................
Stitch linings_________________________________________
Stitch top facings_________________ _______ ___________
Trim linings_ _ ____________________ ____ ____________
Match up.” ___________________________________________
Turn bafs.................... ............................................................
Undertrim. __________________________________________
Eyelet..
..............................................................................
Trim linings__________________________________________
Fold tips
_________________________________________
Line tips_____________________________________________
Mark vamps _______________________________________Ormhlft vamps and p .m t; stays
.p fvn
.......
....
Stitch box toes________________________________________
Snrt tips and vamps, and match up
Stitch tips_______r____________________________________
Cement tongue tn lining
Stitch tongue lining to tongue_________________________
Trim and sort vamps and stitch blucher tongue_______
Arch support on vamps_______________________________
Sort vamps for vampers
r
Vamp. _
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Lace
n,
.......
Day work____________ ________________________________
Organization__ ____ ____________________ ______ _____

20.833
109.375
57. 292
26.042
15. 625
98.958
20.833
9.375
5.208
114. 583
145. 833
26.042
9.375
15.625
31.250
18.750
46.875
26.042
10.417
46.875
26.042
78.125
104.167
15.625
10.417
265.625
36.458
16.000
33.333

$0,109
.917
.301
.366
. 175

Total...............................................................................
SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles:
Out
. . . . . . .
Grade____ _.
.. _ _ _ _ _ _ .
_
_ ...
Sort. T
_
Case___________ ________ _________________________

2,011.833

17.030

35.417
10.417
26.042
6.250

.425
.059
.289
.069

.666

.662

169.41
575.98
230.40
960.00

78.126

.842

.647

76.80

46.875
15.625
15.625
5.208

.527
.088
.159
.053

.675
.338
.611
.611

128.00
384.00
384.00
1,152.07
72.00

Total

______

_______

.

_

...

Insoles:
Cut...................... .............................................................
Grade .
__
.........
_ _ ______
Sort
__
j
...
_
_
Case______________________________________________

12
.0 2
.125
.049
.038

10
.0 0
1.097
.281
.049
.178
.225
.173
.459
.310
.072
.441
.169
.563
1.031
.104
.072
2.948
.160
.140
.500

$0,314
.503
.315
.843
.672
.620
.360
.314
.438
.524
.451
.647
.314
.684
.432
.554
.588
. 714
.415
.564
.389
.432
.594
.399
.415

.666

.263
.525
.900

288.00
54.86
104.73
230.40
384.00
60.63
288.00
640.00
. 1,152.07
52.36
41.14
230.40
640.00
384.00
192.00
320.00
128.00
230.40
575.98
128.00
230.40
76.80
57.60
384.00
575.98
22.59
164.57
375.00
180.00

.507

.720
.340

Total...............................................................................

83.333

.827

.595

Counters, leather 1_
______ _ _
_ __
Box toes, leather l
.... ,
. . . .
_____
Heels, leather, men’s, 4 /8 1 ____________________________
Stock fitting:
Skive outsoles .............................. ......... ......... ............
Stamp outsoles.................................................................
Reduce shanks and tie up....................... .................
Round insoles........... ...................... ................. ........ .....
Stamp insoles and tie up........................... .................
Stamp sizes and cut shanks..........................................
Channel.................................. ............................ ............
Cement insoles___________ _____ ___ _______ ______
Set lips:.............................................................................
Lay cloth..........................................................................
Form............................ ...............................................
Trim...................................................................................
Inspect cases and tie u p ____________________
Day work________________________________________
Organization....................................................................

158.915
113.788
230.247

1.314
1.033
2.147

.496
.545
.559

6.250
3.125
26.042
16.667
8.333
8.333
19.792
9.375
18.750
15.625
15.625
23.958
9.375
32.000
33.333

.045
.023
.188
.143
.047
.048
.450
.094
.188
.090
.103
.273
.062
.290
.533

.432
.442
.433
.515
.338
.346
1.364
.602
.602
.346
.396
.684
.397
.544
.959

Total_________________________________________

246.583

2.577

.627

Total, sole-leather department..................................

910.992 |

8.740

960.00
1,920.00
230.40
359.99
720.03
720.03
303.15
640.00
320.00
384.00
384.00
250.44
640.00
187.50
180.00

.576

* These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several rep­
resentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




10

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

3.—Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather
heel with rubber top lift—Continued.

D e p a r t m e n t a n d o p e r a t io n .

T im e cos t
o f 100 p a irs
(m in u t e s ).

L a b o r cost
o f 100 p a irs.

H o u r ly
w a g e s.

N um ber
o f p a irs
w ork ed on
per h our.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
4 .1 6 7
14.533
11.458
3 0.208
491.667
125.000
383.333
3 .1 2 5
4 6.875
3 3 .3 33

$ 0,0 24
.2 7 3
.43 1
4.5 8 4
1 .587
4.821
.03 1
.4 6 9
.6 1 3

$ 0 ,3 4 6
.4 1 1
1 .4 3 0
.8 5 6
.5 5 9
.7 6 2
.7 5 4
.5 9 5
.6 0 0
1 .103

1 ,1 4 3 .7 4 9

12.932

.6 7 9

3 6 .4 5 8
21.8 75
17.708
133.333
36.4 58

.3 3 8
.2 7 3
.2 4 4
2 .2 5 0
.2 7 3

.5 5 6
.7 4 9
.8 2 7
1.0 1 3
.4 4 9

164.57
2 7 4 .29
3 3 8 .83
4 5 .0 0
164.57

31.250
34.375
31.250
41.667
24.479
38.542
22.917
47.917
4.167
7.292
13.542
14.583
28.125
25.000
46.354
13.542
97.396
12.500
28.646
38.542
7.292
77.604
30.208
21.875
135.417
28.125
31.000
33.333

.236
.435
.218
.273
.244
.273
.172
.256
.026
.046
.102
.131
.435
.292
1.125
.188
2.550
.078
.375
.450
.035
1.637
.900
.375
3.075
.490
.270
.613

.453
.759
.419
.393
.598
.425
.450
.321
.374
.378
.452
.539
.928
.701
1.456
.833
1.571
.374
.785
.701
.288
1.266
1.788
1.029
1.363
1.045
.523
1.103

192.00
174.55
192.00
144.00
245.11
155.67
261.81
125.22
1,439.88
822.82
443.07
411.44
213.33
240.00
129.44
443.07
61.60
480.00
209.45
155.67
822.82
77.32
198.62
274.29
44.31
213.33
193.55
180.00

1,212.772

18.678

.925

B u r n is h . . .
. _
_____
_____
_ _
S e t e d g e s ......................................................................................................
S c o u r h e e l b re a sts
____________
_____
A l ig n h eels _ _
_ _ ______
S c o u r h e e ls, first t i m e . _.
_ ____
__________
S c o u r h eels, s e c o n d t im e _______
_
_
______
W et, h e e ls
_ _ ___ .... .
B l a c k h e e l s ..
. . ..
_____ _
____
M a t e sh oa s
S t o n e a n d k e y h eels _ ____
_ _
_
. . . .
S cou r b o tto m s
_
D u s t ____ .. _ .
____
______
G um
T
S t r i p e ____
. . .. ___ _____
_
_________
C le a n h e e ls
_
_____
P u ll la s ts
_ _ _ _
_
.
...
_ _ ___
S ta m p b o tto m s
__ _
_.
. . .
_
O r g a n iz a t io n .
_ _

22.396
223.958
12.500
8.333
20.833
25.000
8.333
8.333
8.333
62.500
62.500
12.500
41.667
20.833
4.167
50.000
37.500
33.3 33

.272
3.075
.180
.131
.713
.713
.043
.055
.043
.788
1.065
.117
.391
.145
.029
.383
.241
.623

.729
.824
.864
.943
2.053
1.711
.310
.396
.310
.756
1.022
.562
.563
.418
.418
.460
.386
1.121

T o t a l ____________________________________________________

663.019

9.007

.815

C r ip p le w o r k _________________________________________________
S t o c k -r o o m w n r k
...
_ ...
P i c k la sts
. ...
T a c k in s o le s a n d t r im
. _ ___
A s s e m b le a n d s id e la st, h a n d
P u ll o v e r , m a c h in e .
v .
O p e r a t e b e d m a c h in e
C o b b l e . _____ _.
C row n. _
O r g a n iz a t io n ., _
T ota l

_____________

___________

______ _________

.100

1 ,4 3 9 .8 8
4 11 .44
5 23 .65
198 .62

1 .2
20

4 8 .0 0
1 5 .6 5
1 ,9 2 0 .0 0
128 .00
1 80 .00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.
P u ll la s t t a c k s
S t a p le u p p e r s
_
_
._
_____
T r i m toes"
_
- _
...
G o o d y e a r w e lt
...
.
_ _ _ _ ...
P u ll t o e w ir e s
HTnock t a c k s
_
_
......
T r i m in s e a m s
_
......
B u tt, w e l t s . _ _
_
B e a t w e lt s _ ,.
_
____ _
T a c k sh an ks
F ill b o t t o m s
_____________ , ___________________________
C a r t solas . ,
•
T
r T
R i v e t sola s
......
_ .
P ic k s to c k
W e t s t o c k ______ ______________________________________________
C e m e n t s o le s . . . .
.
____
C em en t b o tto m s
r....
_ _ ................
__
L a y so le s
. . . .
N a i l h e e l s e a t s . _____________________________________________
R ou g h rou n d
T r i m h eel sea ts
T _
r
. ,
G o o d y e a r s t i t c h .'
_
___
.
...
S o r t s h o e s ______________________________________________________
W h e e l e d g a s ___
____
L evel
____
P i c k h e e ls
__
H e e l . ................... Y . .....................................................................................
S h a v e h eels
B reast
_ _
_
_
T rim edg es.
..
__
J o in t in g .
____
D a v w o r k __
_ __ _
______ _
______ ______
O r g a n iz a t io n
_
T o t a l ________________

________

_____________

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.




267.90
26.79
480.00
720.03
288.00
240.00
720.03
720.03
720.03
96.00
96.00
480.00
144.00
288.00
1,439.88
120.00
160.00
180.00

11

E S T A B L IS H M E N T NO* 4.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t

JVb.S.—Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather
heel with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

T R E E IN G

AND

P A C K IN G

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

DEPARTM ENT.

20.042
21.875
2C8.958
58.333
27.083
151.042
97.917
12.500
12.500
25.000
16.667
21. 875
18.750
9.375
57.333

$0,146
.123
3.114
.438
.381
.929
.551
, 084
.077
.155
.094
.144
.146
.073
.743

$0,336
.337
.625
.451
.844
.369
.338
.403
.370
.372
.338
.395
.467
.467
.778

855.250

7.198

.505

7,716.740

84.476

.657

Cut tacks_____________________________________________
Line heels____________________________________________
Tree, hand___________________________________________
Repair_______________________________________________
Brush heels and edges_________________________________
Dress______ ______ ___________________________________
Mate, tie, tag, and lace, and clean linings_____________
Label____ ______________________ ______ _________ ____
Stencil cartons________________________________________
Pack _ ______________________________________________
Put o n a n d t a k e s h o e s f r a m b e n c h
.......
_ _
Take f r o m e l e v a t o r a n d n a i l c a s e s
Stencil cases__________________________________________
Ship and load on trucks_______________________________
Organization____ ____________________________________
T o t a l_ _______________________________________
_
Grand total ___ ___ _

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o ,

Hourly
wages.

230.40
274.29
20.07
102.86
221.54
39.72
61.28
480.00
480.00
240.00
359.99
274.29
320.00
640.00
104.65

4 Men’s Goodyear welt, russian bal, 12 square edge, 8 iron sole, 8/8 leather heel with
.—
rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Put up job for cutters.................................
Get out patterns..........................................
Cut cloth linings, hand..............................
Case, cloth linings......................................
Cut, whole bal facings_________________
Case-up trimmings.....................................
Cut and case-up tongues...........................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, band--------Sort................................................................
Match marks...............................................
Punch tips...................................................
Skive tops, wide for fold............................
Skive tops, narrow......................................
Skive tips......................................................
Skive vamp throats...................................
Skive vamp toes..........................................
Skive backstays...........................................
Skive tongues...................... .......................
Assemble shoes...........................................
Organization.................................................

83.333
20.833
50.000
33.333
162.500
41.667
45.833
812.500
83.333
83.333
8.333
62.500
50. C O
O
8.333
29.170
12.500
25.000
25.000
20.833
86.000

$1.125
.118
.597
.190
1.268
.237
.261
9.350
1.125
.425,
.050
.609
.487
.081
.284
.122
.207
.188
.118
1.376

$0.810
.340
.716
.342
.468
.341
.342
.690
.810
.306
.360
.585
.584
.583
.584
rQn
• OO
o

Total..................................................

,744.334

18.218

.627

36.860
33.333
145. 833
79.170
41.670
830
41.670
29.170
12.500
16.670
62.500
75.000
41.670
166.670
145.830
33.330
8.330
66.667
12.500
41.670
20.830

.185
.355
1.509
.853
.365
.234
.600
.365
.177
.177
.731
.731
.252
L 321
1.200
.544
.102
.380
.071
.309
.177

.301
.639
.621
.646
.526
.674
.864
.751
.850
.637
.702
.585
.363
.467
.494
.979
.735
.342
.341
.445
.510

.497

.451
.340
.960

72.00
288.00
120.00
180.00
36.92
144.00
130.91
7.38
72.00
72.00
720.00
96.00
120.00
720.00
205.69
480.00
240.00
240.00
288.00
69.77

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Check in and give out work......................
Stamp and grade linings ...........................
Make linings....... ........................................
Stitch tongues to linings...........................
Stitch top facings to linings.......................
Mark.eyelet ro w s................ ....................
Stitch eyelet rows........................................
Seam tops......................................................
Rub down seams.........................................
Cement tops.................................................
Fold tops......................................................
Stitch backstays..........................................
Cement hookstays................. ....................
Turn bals......................................................
Stitch tops (undertrim).............................
Eyelet............................................................
Sort tops........................................................
Double tops................ ................................
Double heels of vamps...............................
Cement vamp doublers.............................
Cement tip doublers...................................




162.78
180.00
41.14
75.79
143.99
288.05
143.99
205.69
480.00
359.93
96.00
80.00
143.99
36.00
41.14
180.02
720.29
90.00
480.00
143.99
288.05

12

* T I M E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D DISTRICT*

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 .—

Men’s Goodyear welt, rassian bal., 12 square edge, 8 iron sole, 8/8 leather heel with
rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.

Bar toe lining, holding in tongue _ .
_
Give out work to vampers, etc______________________
Bar * ____________________ *
______________________
Organization;.__ ___________________ _____ __ : ----------Total........................................................................
SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Insoles:
Cut____________ __ ____________________________
Grade
..... Sort_____ - ________ ____________________________
Case-up_______________________________________
Tntfti

12.500
41.670
41.670
54.170
16.670
75.000
36.860
291.670
20.850
20.830
20.830
43.000

$0.132
.496
.552
.720
.132
.600
.233
3.674
.234
.225
.108
.480

$0,634
.714
.795
.797
.475
.480
.379
.756
.674
.648
.311
.670

1,808.403

18.224

.605

98.008

Trim vamp doublers
_________ ______________
fit.iteh tip«*nn vamps_______________________________
Stitnh tips holding*htvr t.nes under y^mps ...........
ihlnsA heel sftflms, nib spams, and trim ends

1.010

.619

50.000
15.000
50.000
10.000

.580
.084
.510
.132

.696
.336
.612
.792

125.000

Counters, leather t
. _
Bo* toes, leather *__________________________________

1.306
1.314
1.033

.156
.014
.500
.380

.460
.648
.464
.484
.468
.280
.300
.353

270.500

1.855

Tnt.nl

.......

.

2.000
2.000

.019
.019
.262

.570
.570
.786
.807
.810
.480
.342
.432
.333
.996

T o ta l

m oo

600.00

.411

Heels:
3.000
Grade stock_______________________________ ____
Build bases (Alsop m
____ ____ __________ achine)
50.000
Gouge bases
. _ _ __
n
15.000
Compress bases
. _ _ __
15.000
Port bases
.
20.000
Count bases
_
____
3.000
Cement rubber heel bases__________________ ____
100.000
Organization
_ _ _
_ ____
64.500

Stock fitting:
Take in and check. ____ _ ___________ __
Take in stock, cut shanks, check lots, etc................
Round insoles__________________________________
Stamp and snip__________ ____ _________________
Channel insoles_____________ ______ ____ ________
Turn up channels and tie up insoles_____________
Check up insoles_______________________________
Shank ontsoles
__
. . . . . .
_
_
Cement and tie up
. . . _ T ________ . . . r
Organization...............................................................
Total........................................................................
Total, sole-leather department...............................
LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Case counters_______________________ —__ _________
A ssemble counters, lasts, and insoles
r.
_ ___
_
Pick lasts_________________________________________
Tack and trim insoles
_
.
Assemble for pull-over machine _
_
. ,
Pull over, machine
T
. ___
T n1
T_.
pide la s t, hand ......
__,
Operate bed machine
____
________
Crown
_ __________________________ - ___________
Organization......................................................................

120.00
400.00

.496
.545

.023
.540
.121

_________ __

.627

158.915
113.788

480.00
143.99
143.99
110.76
359.93
80.00
162.78
20.57
288.05
288.05
288.05
139.53

20.000
8.330
33.330
37.500

10.000
20.830
15.150
21.500
170.640
936.851
8.330
33.330
33.330
29.170
125.000
104.170
187.500
375.000
62.500
43.000
1,001.330

.121

.112
.450
.300
.057
.150
.084
.357
1.810
8.328
.065
.226
.380
.426
1.670
. 1.723 .
2.656
4.877
.591
.480
13.094

2*000.00
120.00
400.00
^400.00
300.00
2,000.00
6a oo
93. O
ft

3.000.
3.000.
300.00
720.29
180.02
160.00
600.00
288.05
396.04
279.07

.636
.533
.468
.407
.684
.876
.802
- -.9 9 2
.850
.780
.567
.670
.784

720.29
180.02
180.02
205.69
48.00
57.60
32.00
16.00
96.00
139.53

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




00
00

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 4 ,

13

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 .—Men’s

Goodyear welt, russian bal., 12 square edge, 8 iron sole, 8/8 leather heel with
rubber top lift—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT

Trim toes................................................. ...............................
Full tacks.................................................................................
Goodyear welt.........................................................................
Pull insole and side tacks, tack and butt welts................
Trim inseams...........................................................................
Beat welts.......... ....................................................................
Tack in shanks........................................................................
Fill bottoms.............................................................................
Cement bottoms.....................................................................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Nail heel seats.........................................................................
Rough round............................................................................
Trim heel seats........................................................................
Turn channels.........................................................................
Goodyear stitch.......................................................................
Cement channels....................................................................
Close channels........................................................................
Wheel stitch............................................................................
Level.........................................................................................
Heeling.....................................................................................
Slug heels.................................................................................
Shave heels................... ..........................................................
Breast heels...... .......................................................................
Rough scour heels..................................................................
Trim edges...............................................................................
Knife up joints........................................................................
Organization................. ..........................................................

20.830
79.170
125.000
100.000
29.170
33.330
29.170
33.330
2a 630
41.670
33.330
58.330
20.830
20.830
166.670
16.670
20.830
45.830
37.500
83.330
41.670
33.330
33.330
29.170
133.330
41.670
43.000

$0,244
.250
2.475
.708
.436
.298
.272
.273
.136
.500
.292
1.200
.190
.190
2.925
.169
.220
.435
.489
1.202
.648
.733
.412
.343
3.075
.490
.536

$0,703
.189
1.188
.425
.897
.536
.559
.491
.396
.720
.526
1.234
.547
.547
1.053
.608
.634
.570
.782
.865
.933
1.320
.742
.706
1.384
.706
.748

Total..............................................................................

1,371.950

19.141

.836

Set edges...................................................................................
Scour heel breasts...................................................................
Scour and smooth heels.........................................................
Wet in heels.............................................................................
Black heels...............................................................................
Clean soles................................................................................
Clean top pieces......................................................................
Wet natural bottoms............................................. ................
Gum natural bottoms............................................................
Stripe........................................................................................
Expedite...................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

187.500
16.670
58.330
25.000
29.170
25.000
25.000
20.830
54.170
20.830
62.500
21.500

3.075
.189
.712
.148
.173
.215
.300
.435
.600
.225
.787
.357

.984
.680
.732
.355
.356
.516
.720
1.253
.665
.648
.756
.996

Total..............................................................................

54a 500

7.216

.792

25.000
16.670
41.670
62.500
70.830
395.830
250.000
25.000
37.500

.375
.106
.234
.352
.436
5.000
18.800
.357
.337
.641
.239
.103
.103
.179
.218
.357

.900
.382
.337
.338
.369
.758
.451
.857
.539
.369
.574
.371
.371
.368
.543
.996

1,162.280

10.917

.563

8,571.648

95.138

.666

288.05
75.79
48.00
60.00
205.69
180.02
205.69
180.02
290.84
143.99
180.02
102.86
288.05
288.05
36.00
359.93
288.05
130.92
160.00
72.00
143.99
180.02
180.02
205.69
45.00
143.99
139.53

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

32.00
359.93
102.86
240.00
205.69
240.00
240.00
288.04
110.76
288.04
96.00
279.07

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENTS.

Pull lasts..................................................................................
Stamp bottoms.......................................................................
Feel for tacks...........................................................................
Line heels.................................................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Tree, hand................................................................................
Repair.......................................................................................
Brush heels and edges...........................................................
Clean stitches..........................................................................
Inspect.................................................................... .................
Emboss....................................................................................
Stamp cartons....................... .......... .......................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Ship..........................................................................................
Organization............... ...........................................................

Total

......

Grand total

84791°— 24t------2




.

________________

104.170

25.000
16.670
16.670
29.170
24.100
21.500

240.00
359.93
143.99
9a 00
84.71
15.16
24.00

24a 00

160.00
57.60
240.00
359.93
359.93
205.69
24a 96
279.07

14

T IM E A N D IA k O R CJOSTB— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTR ICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 160 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Cmatinued.
NEW
M sia b U sh m ejU

E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — C ontinued.

JTo. A—Women's Goodyear welt, black kid, lace oxford, perforated tip, single sole, 8/8 leather
heel with rubber top lift.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

400.000
00.000
20.000
15.000
30.000
00.000
45.000
15.000
255.000

eo.ooo

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

$8,200
.625
.233
.194
.200
.870
.403
.250
1.540
1.068

960.000

Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand..........
Cut vamps and toe linings, hand...........
Stamp linings (quarter and toe).............
Mark uppers......................................... —
Out backstays;, hand............. ...................
Skive............................... — ...............
Perforate tips...................... — ..................
Assemble............................— ...............
Day work........................... ........................
Organization........................- .....................
Total............ ............ ........ ~.............

13.583

6a ooo

$1,230
.625
.699
.776
.400
.870
.537
1.000
.362
1.068
.849

15.00
100.00
300.00
400.00
200.00

m oo

133.33
400.00
23.53
100.00

ioaoo
m oo
m oo

35.000
35.000 .
65.000
30.000
240.000
45.000
1,665.000

.666
.588
.541
.639
.833
.250
1.000
2.027
1.000
1.666
.166
.333
2.750
.277
.277
.583
.250
2.500
.801
17.147

.666
.588
.649
.639
.480
.375
.667
.450.
.632
.666
.398
.666
.917
.475
.475
.538
.500
.625
1.068.
.617

84111
1M.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.545
.461

25.000
15.000
15.000
40.000
20.000
35.000

Stitch lace rows----- ---------- ------- ---------------------Stitch vamps and quarter linings------------------Close quarters and linings— ........................—
Stiteh backstays—..................................... ...........
Snip backstay stitch-------------- ----------------------Cement side stay......................................... .........

.222
.100
.083
.669
.250
.650
.388
.388
.116
.070.
.278
3.214

240.00
400.00
400.00
150.00
300.00
171.43
200.00
200.00
400.00
400.00
400.00

240.00
240.00
46.15
66.67
66.67
33.33
255.32
400.00

60.000
50.000
60.000
105.000
40.000
90.000
270.000
95.000
15d 000
25.000

M-otoft lin in g s _______________________________________

Press and cement quarters, tips, and vamps...
Stitch tips.............................. —.............................
Stitch tops----------- ---------- — ..............................

Black........................ ............. ...........

saooo
isaooo.

Eyelet___________ ________ _ ______ ________
_
Vamp___________ _________ —.....................—
Lace................................................................ .........

Close toes........................- ................................
Pack.........................................................................
Day work........................ ............ .........................
Organization..______ ____ — ............................
Total........ - ............ - ................................

100.00
57.14
150.00
66.67
22.22
63.16
40,60
240.40
200.00
33.33
171.43
171.43
92.31
200.00
25.00
133.33

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Ontsoles, leather L .r__________ _______ ______
Insoles, leather^— ...........— .................. .............
Counters, leather1- .................... ............ .............
Box toes, leather1 -------------------------- -------------Heels, leather, 8/81
............. ..................................
Stock fitting:
Dink.................... - ................... ......... .............
Stamp and cut heel seats._______________
Cut toes.............. ....................................... .
Channel____. . . . . ________ - _________ - _
_
Cement...........................................................
Rib set..........................—.............................. .
Cut off and form in.......... ............................
Reenforoe—................. ................................—
Size and tie up__________________________
Day work-----------------------------------------------Organization............... .......... ........................
Total____________ __________________ _
Total, sole-leather department-------------

1,145.397

10.775

.533
.400
.332
1.004
.750
1.114
.776
.776
.464
.280
1.112
.756 .
.564

25.000
25.000

.555
.444
2.833
L5S3
2.041
3.583
.155
.278
11.472

1.332
1.066
1.307
1.055
1361
1.194
.396.
1.112
1.100

3a 000

30.000
15.000
15.000
15.000
255.000
.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Pick and throwaway lasts— .......................... .
Tack insoles.........................—................... ..........
Assemble for pull-over machine.........................
Pull over, machine_______ _________ ________
Side last, machine.............. ............................ .....
Operate bed machine...........................................
Day work______________________ ________ ___
Organization.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . __
Total____. . . . __________________ - _ . . .
_

m 000

90.000
90.000
180.000
23.500
15.000
578.5001

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




15

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 5.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . S .—Women's

Goodyear welt, black kid, lace oxford, perforated tip, single sole, 8/8 leather
heel with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim uppers
_ _
,
Staple-1-1__________________________ ______ _____ _____
Pull upper tacks_________ ___________ ________ _______
Goodyear welt________________________________________
Pull bottom tacks_________ ___________________________
Trim inseams____________ - ___________________________
Butts...................... ................................................................
Beat welts_______________________________________ ____
Put in shank ,,
Fill in cork_______ _________ ____________________ _____
Cement shnes
, _
Cement soles_________________________________________
Lay and find soles____________________________________
Rough round_________________________________________

Turn channels

... . . . . . . .

__ ___

_

Skive shanks__________________________________________
Stitch (fudge)............ ............ ................ .............................. ..................

Break shanks

...

Tj«vel
Nail heal seats

_

Trim heel seats _

.
. . . . . .
_ .

_

.
.
......

Slug heels (three nails)_____ ________ _________

Shave heels

____

____
_

_ _ _____
_..

Nail heels

....

________

Lay and cement channels______ __________ ____

_

________

____

_____

Breast heels___________________ ________ _________________
Trim edges
___________

Daywork..
Organization.

.
_

.

.

.

.

_______

_

...

_

Total .....

_________

25.000
25.000
40.000
90.000
40.000
22.000
15.000
15.000
12.000
22.000
18.000
12.000
35.000
35.000 1
15.000
15.000
135.000
15.000
30.000
45.000
40.000
20.000
70.000
20.000
25.000
17.000
150.000
23.500
15.000

$0,361
.250
.666
2.708
.333
.722
.277
.381
.250
.416
.194
.115
.750
1.200
.305
.277
3.000
.277
.472
1.083
.354
.250
1.125
.354
.875
.417
3.000
.155
.278

$0,866
.600
.999
1.805
.500
1.969
1.108
1.524
1.250
1.135
.647
•
.575
1.286
2.057
1.220
1.108
1.333
1.108
.944 :
1.444
.531
.750
.964
1.062
2.100
1.472
1.200
.396
1.112

20.845

1.201

25.000
20.000
140.000
25.000
20.000
20.000
20.000
15. C O
O
70.000
25.000
30.000
15.000
55.000
25.000
10.000
60.000
20.000
25.000
30.000

.542
.209
2.750
.542
.250
.413
.250
.138
.833
.750
.583
.333
.916
.833
.250
1.000
.472
.180
.556

1.301
.627
1.179
1.301
.750
1.239
.750
.552
.714
1.800
1.166
1.332
.999
1.999
1.500
1.000
1.416
.432
1.112

650.000

11.800

1.089

15.000
270.000
24.000
60.000
60.000
15.000
72.000
15.000
55.000
90.000
15.000

.250
4.020
.222
.480
.480
.138
.666
.120
.450
.900
.278

1.000
.893
.555
.480
.480
.552
.555
.480
.491
.600
1.112

240.00
240.00
150.00
66.67
150.00
272.73
400.00
400.00
500.00
272.73
333.33
500.00
171.43
171.43
400.00
400.00
44.44
400.00
200.00
133.33
150.00
300.00
85.71
300.00
240.00
352.94
40.00
255.32
400.00

1,041.500

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Soonr heels, first time
_
____
,
_
Scour breasts__________ _______________________________
Set edges_______________ ______________________________

Scour heels, second time . _ _
.
_
Align breasts _ ____
Slick heels
,. , _
T
_______
Enamel heels . i
r
.
T
Black heels
. _
_
Burnish heels
.
.

Buff
Nanmkeag

_

___,
......

_

_

. . .

.....

.....
_
__
______________
_
____________________________
_____________________

..... r_
_

Bleach
_______
Hard finish bottoms
Wax bottoms.... .
Black heel tops

__

.. .

.
..
____
......... _ . n
„ , . T _ ____
_
_ _ _ _ nir

„r „, r

_
_

^ ...
.

........
__

_

Ch'an._________ ____ ___________ ____ ________________________________ ________
Pull lasts_____________________________________________

Davwork____
..
Organization 1
lir
Total

-

-

_________
. . . . . . . . . _____

_

......

_

______

. . .

.

_

..

...

240.00
300.00
42.86
240.00
300.00
300.00
300.00
400.00
85.71
240.00
200.00
400.00
109.09
240.00
600.00
100.00
300.00
240.00
200.00

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Line-in sock line _ _
Iron, dean, and dress

Inspect

Repair

LaC
e

_

^

_

_
nnmmr-r

{Irtish
Pack

. ....

...

___

__

_____

___________ __

___
_ ,

_

Stamp cartons _____ _ _
Davwork
_
_________
General work (shipping)
...
Organizatinn .........
_

^

_

_

_

___

_

_ _ _ _ _

___
_____

____

_
_... ...

_

. ...

Total__________- _____ _________________ - _______

691.000

8.004

.695

Grand total— _________________________________

6,731.397

93.626

.835




400.00
22.22
250.00
100.00
100.00
400.00
83.33
400.00
109.09
66.67
400.00

16

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D D ISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES I N 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

9.—Men’s Goodyear welt, tan, full quarter bals., perforated tip stitched aloft, single
sole, leather heel with rubber top lut.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Put up work for nutters ,
_ _ ...... T _
___
Cut vamps, quarters, and tongues, machine. ___
Cut niece facings, mallet d ie ___
_
_ __
Out backstays,“ m achine.
___
_ ..
Cut linings, machine . ____________________________
Cut doublers, machine
~— - - - - r
Sort vamps, etc ^
^.
M ark heel stays.
_ _
_ __ _
Perforate eyelet row, fox row, vamps, and tips________
Stamp linings __ 1_______ '_____*__'____ *__I_________
_
Skive*uppers.. _ _____ ______
.
Organization.............. Jl....................................................
Total_____________________ _________________
STITCHING DEPARTMENT.
Make facings _
_ _
___ . _
General work _„,
.
_____ .. _T _
____
Paste facings . _
Paint edges, backstays
_r
_rT. r _ _
____
Paint edges', tips _ ’
. __ .... _
...
Paint edges' vamps
.
___ r r
Uniihle vamps * _ _ _ _ _ . .
Close quarters..
__ _
_
- rr_
Paste tip lining___
.
______ ____ ....
. .. . .
Paste eyelet stay..
Rub quarter seams
Stitch perforated eyelet row ____ _ . . . _ . . .
_ _.
Stitch foxing perforation.
____
.
- ... _ _
Stitch hack stays
_ Tr. , n
n ,
Stitch tips _ . . .
_____
___
Stitch box toes________________________________________

Cement tops _
__ _ ___
_
_
_
Fold tops
.
_
.
_
, .r
Line tongues _
_ .......... _
. ___ r_
Stitch eyelet facings.
. . . _____
Stitch heel stays.
____ _____ _ ___ _..
Stitch top facing
.
_______
_ _
______
Stitch tops
..... .................
Stain edge facings _ . _ _____
____
______ _ _
Eyelet
_
____
Vam p.
____
_ ......
_ ..... ..............
Seam toe linings.
_____ _____ _ . . . . . . . ...
Lace “ ensign”
. ._ ___
____
Sort__________________ ____________________ ______
Cripple work
_ _
_ ... __r _ _
Organization........................................................................
Total...............................................................................

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles, leather I . . .
._
Insoles, leather 1______________________________________

Connters, leather i
Box toes, leather i

_

_

___

. . .
_r......... „

Heels, leather, men’s, 4/8*....................................................
Stock fitting:
Put up jobs .
r
___ .
____

Round insoles'

Cut lips and score insoles_______________________

Channel insoles_______
___ ___ ________ _
Cement lips of insoles. ___ ___
_____
Set lips of insoles _ _____ _____ _
__ ...
Gem insoles
_
r
......
Reenforce insoles
. . .
_ . .T T r
r
Case and sort insoles .
. _
Reduce outsole sh an ks_____________ _ ____ _
_
Cement ontsoles
________________
__
Organization...............................................................
Total...............................................................................
Total, sole-leather department..................................

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

86.667
273.333
108.333
12.500
17.500
10.250
50.000
21.667
83.333
21.667
130.000
62.381
877.631

$0,858
4.267
1.167
.100
.145
.087
.658
.187
1.458
.125
1.208
.639
10.899

$0,594
.937
.646
.480
.497
.509
.790
.518
1.050
.346
.557
.615
.745

69.23
21.95
55.38
48fi 00
342.86
585.37
m oo
27fi 92
72.00
276.92
46.15
9a 18

67.167
216.667
54.167
6.667
4.167
10.833
21.666
43.333
14.167
28.333
16.667
43.750
43.750

.297
.501
.369
.558
.605
.692
.692
.432
.529
.529
.450
1.142

.625
.417
.375
.167
.500
.417
.625
.417
.250
1.667
.062
.333
3.417
.375
.229
.167
.276
.639
16.305

1.029
.750
.577
.519
.231
.626
.375
.581
.577
.692
.480
.446
.461
.794
.519
.317
.267
.381
.615
.561

89.33
27.69
110.77
899.96
1,439.88
553.86
27a 93
13a 46
423.52
211.77
359.99
137.14

50.000
43.333
43.333
43.333
47.917
66.667
64.583
43.333
21.667
208.333
8:333
43.333
258.333
43.333
43.333
37.500
43.333
62.381
1,743.712

.333
1.808
.333
.062
.042
.125
.250
.312
.125
.250
.125
.833
.750

98.008
110.404
158.915
113.788
230.247

1.010
1.069
1.314
1.033
2.147

.619
.581
.496
.545
.559

43.333
12.500
12.500
25.000
16.667
20*833
25.000
66.667

.350
.167
.135
.375
.167
.250
.208
.250
.125
.125
.117
.639
2.908

.485
.802
.648
.900
.601
.720
.499
.225
.225
.600
.562
.615
.508

9.481

.539

33.333

12.500
12.500
62.381
343.214
1,054.576

137.14
120.00
13a 46
13a 46
138.46
125.22
90.00
92.90
13a 46
27a 92
2a 80
720.03
13a 46
23.23
138.46
138.46
160.00
13a 46
96.18

138.46
480.00
480.00
240.00
359.99
28a 00
240.00
90.00
180.00
480.00
480.00
96.18

1 These are purchased, The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 9.

17

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D IS T R IC T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 9 .—

Men’s Goodyear welt, tan, full quarter bals., perforated tip stitched aloft, single
sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued.

Department and operation.

.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LA
STIN D
G EPAR EN
TM T.

Throw back to bins, pick out lasts, and put up work___
Tack insoles.............................................................................
Chalk lasts...............................................................................
Wet uppers..............................................................................
Assemble for pull-over machine..........................................
Pull over, machine.................................................................
Side last, machine..................................................................
Operate bed machine.............................................................
Cobble..........: ...........................................................................
Crown.......................................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total ..................................................................—___

37.500
37.500
5.833
83.333
108.333
108.333
265.000
23.333
106.667
62.381

$0,417
.417
.083
.083
1.333
1.500
1.500
3.750
.279
1.396
.639

$0,667
.667
.854
1.494
.960
.831
.831
.849
.717
.785
.615

841.546

11.397

.813

16.667
25.000

.333

1.199

.417
.500
2.083
.583

1.001

3.333

16ft 00
io a 00
1,028.63
1,800.18
72.00
55.38
55.38
22.64
257.15
5 a 25
96.18

B TTO IN D
O M G EPAR EN
TM T.
Trim toes......................
Staple uppers...............
Pull upper tacks.........
Goodyear welt.............
Trim inseams..............
Pull insole tacks..........
Butt welts....................
Tack welts....................
Beat welts................... .
Tack shanks................
Fill bottoms.................
Cement bottoms.........
Lasing soles.................
Rough round.............. .
Nail heel seats............ .
Round heel seats.........
Goodyear stitch...........
Level............................ .
Heel, one nailing_____
Trim heels....................
Trim edges.................. .
Knife up (joint)...........
Pull lasts, hand...........
Return lasts to picker.
Inspect..........................
General work...............
Organization............... .
Total................. .

33.333
106.667
25.000
20.833
16.667
20.833
20.833
20.833
25.000
12.500

.333
.375
.375
.417
.250

.333

.900
1.172
1.399
.959
1.350
1.080

1.201
.720
.799
.998
1.049

20.833
20.833
21.667
21.667
62.381

.208
.583
1.083
.500
.250
2.292
.417
1.167
.750
2.625
.583
.417
.083
.283
.275
.639

1,068.630

18.154

1.018

20.833
41.667
75.000
54.167
19.167
19.167
54.167

.375
.750
1.583

359.99
240.00
180.00
5 a 25
240.00
28a 00
359.99
28a 00
28a 00
28a 00
240.00
480.00
180.00
110.77
205.71
18a 00
47.37
13a 46
115.20
144.00

33.333
54.167
29.167

33.333
126.667
43.333
52.083
41.667
130.000

33.333

1.200
1.029
.450
1.086
.577
1.344
1.080

1.211

4a 15

1.049

i8 a oo
28a 00
28a 00
276.92
276.92
9 a 18

1.201
.239
.784
.762
.615

FIN IN DEPAR EN
ISH G
TM T.
Scour breasts.............................................
Scour heels, first time.-..............................
Set edges, first time....................................
Set edges, second time................................
Scour fine heels............................................
Ink heels........................................................
Expedite........................................................
Naumkeag shank........................................
Return rack to last puller..........................
Buff forepart.................................................
Gum bottoms...............................................
Gum dry, brush..........................................
W ax...............................................................
Stamp on bottoms.......................................
Organization.................................................
Total............................................ .




8.333
43.333
27.083
66.667
37.500
12.600
62.381

.500
.250
.146
.639

1.080
1.080
1.266
1.108
.717
.523
.761
.495
.598
.831
.647
.450
.400
.701
.615

575.298

7.576

.790

33.333

1.000
.229
.167
.687
.275
.083
.600

.292

28a 00
144.00
s a oo
110.77
313.04
313.04
110.77
180.00
720.03
13a 46
221.54
90.00
160.00
480.00
9 a 18

18

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D D ISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —C ontinued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 9 .—

Men's Goodyear welt, tan, full quarter bals., perforated tip stitched aloft, single
sole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEIN AND PA K G DEPAR ENT.
G
C IN
TM
Feel for tacks, line-in......... .............
Tree, hand..........................................
Brush, power.....................................
Lace.....................................................
Repair........ .........................................
Pack, and stencil cartons................
Inspect, emboss, and general work.
Label...................................................
Ship, and general work- .................
Organization......................................

29.167
218.333
87.500
29.167
87.500
43.750
43.333
40.000
86. 667
62.381

$0,229
2.500
1.167
.229
.667
.312
.350
.225
.700
.639

Total.........................................

727.798

7.018

Grand total..............................

6,889.191

80.830

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 0 .—

205.71
27.48
68.57
205.71
68.57
137.14
138.46
150.00
69.23
96.18

.578 V
.
.704

Men's Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with
rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
G ive out stock...................................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand...................................
Throat................................................................................
M atch marks -— ....................................................«........
Skive and trim ..................................................................
Skive tops, vamps, and tip s............................................
Skive................ ...... ...........................................................
Perforate............................................................................
Punch tips.........................................................................
Assem ble-......... —......... ..................................................
General work.......................... - ........................................
Block cut trimmings.........................................................
Cut leather, linings, and stays, hand......................... ....
Mark linings......................... - ..........................................
Skive trimmings____________ ___________ __________
Checking________________ _________________________
Organization....................... ......................... ...................
Tntftl_____
STITCHING DEPARTMENT.
Check-in.....................................................—...................
Cement tongue lin in g s..........................................- ........
Stitch tongue linings.............. ..........................................
Make linings.................. ......... .........................................
Seam linings.................... .................................................
Rub seams...........—...........................................................
Seam quarters. - ...............................................................
Rub seam s....................... ...............................................
Stitch anchor backstays...................................................
Trim out under backstays................................................
Cement quarters..............................................................
Fold quarters....................................................................
Eyelet stays...................... ..............................................
Sort and match up............ ..............................................
Turn bals..........................................................................
Undertrim.........................................................................
Eyelet................................................................................
Double tops......... ............................................................
Stain and sort................................................... ................
Double tips.......................................................................
Double vamps...................................................................
Stitch tips..........................................................................
Stitch boxes.......................................................................
Stitch toe linings...............................................................
Lace...................... ......................... ..................................
Sort v am ps........................................... ........................ .
M atch up for vampers...... .......... .... ..... ..... . . . . ______




$0,471
.687
.800
.471
.457
.428
.485
.338
.485
.615

33.333
64.167
50.000
83.333
66.667
50.000
25.000
37.500
41.667
25.000
50.000
37.500
91*667
87.500
62.500
75.000
37.500
75.000

$0,493
8.542
.285
.946
.358
.290
.342
.372
.307
.210
.426
.224
.862
.821
.438
.482
.224
L 275

$0,887
.848
.342
.681
.322
.348
.821
.595
.442
.504
.511
.358
.564
.563
.420
.386
.358
1.020

1,533.334

16.897

.661

6.250
33.333
62.500
83.333
33.333
20.833
33.333
20.833
126.000
20.833
20.833
62.500
12.500
8.333
83.333
125.000
33.333
29.167
41.667
33.333
33.333
62.500
62.500
41.667
25.000
20.833
6.250

.025
.310
.479
.600
.310
.178
.366
.178
1.097
.160
.178
.488
.178
.031
.600
1.097
.310
.184
.281
.253
.366
.563
.525
.253
.178
.103
.025

.240
.558
.460
.432
.558
.513
.659
.513
.527
.461
.513
.468
.854
.223
.432
.527
.558
.379
.405
.455
.659
.540
.504
.364
.427
.297
.240

180.00
9.93
120.00
72.00
90.00
120.00
240.00
160.00
144.00
240.00
12a 00
160.00
65.45
68.57
96.00
80.00
160.00
80.00

960.00
180.00
96.00
72.00
m oo
288.00
180.00
288.00
48.00
288.00
288.00
96.00
480.00
720.00
72.00
48.00
180.00
205.71
144.00
180.00
180.00
96.00
96.00
144.00
240.00
288.00
960.00

19

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 10.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 0 .—

Men’s Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with
rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost
cost
of 100 pairs Laborpairs.
(minutes). of 100

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Vamp.................................................................................
Count, inspect, and check-out.........................................
Day labor..........................................................................
Organization......................................................................

260.000
50.000
300.000
37.600

$3,131
.354
2.250
.700

$0,751
.425
.450
1.120

Total........................................................................

1,779.103

15.751

.531
==========

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles:
C u t....... ...................................................................
Grade.........................................................................
Sort and case..............................................................

41.667
25.000
41.667

Total_. . . . _ ___ . . . . . . _______- ______________
_
Insoles:
C ut....... .....................................................................
Grade.........................................................................
Sort and case..............................................................
Total ........... „

__

P ownt-or-S leather 1 .
Box tops, leather 1 ,

Tnt.fl.1

,

__________________________

Stock fitting:
Round outsoles.........................................................
Stamp and shank outsoles.........................................
Stamp insoles................................... ........................
Flex outsoles...............................................................
Wet and cement outsoles....... ..................................
Channel insoles.........................................................
Cement insoles..........................................................
Set lip, insoles.................. ........................................
Lay cloth insoles.............................. .........................
Trim Gem and Johnson insoles.................................
Crown insoles.............................................................
Assemble. ..................................................................
Check and miscellaneous...........................................
Organization....................................... ......................
Total______________________________________
Total, sole leather department

*

.514
.357
.595

.740
.857
.857

108.334

1.466

.812

41.667
16.667
25.000

.482
.175
.262

.694
.630
.629

__________

83.334

.919
1.314
1.033
.592
.630
.221
.334
.390

.533
.504
.318
.687
.562

254.168

2.167

.512

33.333
20.833
12.500
41.687
41.667
37.500
16.667
16.667
41.667
25.000
20.833
37.500
37.500
37.500

.342
.178
.118
.221
.288
.450
.083
.125
.221
.310
.144
.341
.259
.608

.616
.513
.568
.318
.386
.720
.299
.450
.318
.744
.415
.546
.414
.973

144.00
359.99
240.00

. 495
.545

66.667
75.000
41.667
29.167
41.667

144.00
240.00
14100

.662

158.915
113.788

R eds:
B uild..........................................................................
Tack rands..................................................................
Cut off rands............................... ...... ........................
Compress....................................................................
Cut top pieces. ..........................................................

2100
120.00
20.00
160.00

90.00
80.00
144.00
205. 71
144.00
= = = = =

420.834

3.871

.552

1,139.373

10.770

.567

83.333
41.667
175.000
116.667
250.000
387.500
166.667
37.500

.740
.532
2.042
1.563
3.000
A 225
2.200
.546

.533
.766
.700
.804
.720
.654
.792
.874

1,258.334

14.848

180.00
288.00
480.00
144.00
144.00
160.00
359.99
359.99
14100
240.00
288.00
160.00
160.00
160.00

.708

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Pick lasts and day labor...................................................
Trim and nail insoles........................ ..............................
Assemble for pull-over machine......................................
Pull over, machine...........................................................
Side last.............................................................................
Operate bed machine.................................. ............... .
D ay labor..........................................................................
Organization...................... ......................... ........... .........
Total

72.00
14100
34.29
51.43
24.00
15.48
36.00
160.00

i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




20

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D DISTRICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

10.—Men’ s Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with
rubber top lift—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

BO M G D
TTO IN EPARTM
ENT.
Staple.........................................................................................
Pull tacks.................................................................................
Trim vamps.............................. .............................................
Goodyear welt.........................................................................
Knock out insole tacks..........................................................
Pull toe wires..........................................................................
Butt welts............................................................; .................
Trim inseams..........................................................................
Beat welts................................................................................
Tack shanks and butts..........................................................
Fill bottoms___ ......................................................................
Cement bottoms........ ............................................................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Nail heel seats.........................................................................
Rough round...........................................................................
Turn up channels...................................................................
Round heel seats.....................................................................
Goodyear stitch.......................................................................
Cement channels....................................................................
Joint..........................................................................................
Turn down channels..............................................................
Prick stitches..........................................................................
Level.........................................................................................
Nail base..................................................................................
Put in rubber heel..................................................................
Nail, machine..........................................................................
Shave heels................................................- ............................
Breast heels..............................................................................
Trim edges...............................................................................
Day labor.................................................................................
Organization----------------------------------------- ---------------------Total............ .................................................................

Hourly
wages.

29.167
49.483
21.351
125.000
27.745
29.955
25.633
41.667
* 33.333
50.000
28.108
13.558
41.667
20.833
83.333
13.438
11.562
208.333
20.833
50.000
29.167
50.000
41.667
41.667
83.333
29.167
62.500
45.833
166.667
450.000
37.500

$0,272
.565
.244
2.475
.235
.254
.218
.435
.327
.413
.272
.131
.545
.263
1.200
.218
.188
2.925
.169
.490
.188
.545
.545
.708
1.088
.563
.900
.619
3.075
3.880
.608

$0,560
.685
.686
1.188
.508
.509
.510
.626
.589
.496
.581
.580
.785
.757
.864
.973
.976
.842
.487
.588
.387
.654
.785
1.020
.783
1.158
.864
.810
1.107
.517
.973

1,962.500
—
—

24.558

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

.751

205.71
121.25
281.02
48.00
216.26
200.30
234.07
144.00
180.00
120.00
213.46
442.54
144.00
288.00
72.00
446.50
518.94
2a 80
28a 00
120.00
205.71
120.00
144.00
144.00
72.00
205.71
96.00
130.91
36.00
13.33
160.00
------------------ -

FIN IN D
ISH G EPAR EN
TM T.
Scour heels................................................................................
Set edges...................................................................................
Scour heel breasts..................................................... ...........
Gum heel breasts....................................................................
Smooth rubber heels.............................................................
Black heels...............................................................................
Expedite heels........ ................................................................
Scour top pieces......................................................................
Scour bottoms......................................... ...............................
Dust bottoms...........................................................................
Bleach bottoms......................................................................
Wet bottoms............................................................................
Gum bottoms........................ .................................................
Black top pieces and bottoms..............................................
Stripe.........................................................................................
Polish foreparts.......................................................................
Fake shanks and clean slugs................................................
Wheel shanks...........................................................................
Wheel upsides.........................................................................
Clean rubber heels.......................... . .....................................
Pull lasts..................................................................................
Organization..........- .......... ...................................................

5a ooo
166.667
20.833
12.500
41.667
1&667
62.500
41.667
83.333
12.500
12.500
41.667
41.667
41.667
20.833
29.167
70.833
25.000
70.833
12.500
33.333
37.500

.713
3.075
.180
.163
.281
.150
.788
.394
1.065
.058
.058
.625
.625
.553
.225
.450
.863
.360
.653
.118
.450
.487

.856
1.107
.518
.782
.405
.540
.756
.567
.767
.278
.278
.900
.900
.796
.648
.926
.731
.864
.553
.566
.810
.779

Total...............................................................................

945.834

12.334

.782

29.167
29.167
33.333
562.500
66.667
70.833
. 62.500
66.667
37.500
187.500

.207
.225
.225
5.830
.394
.431
.394
.431
.274
1.295

.426
.463
.405
.622
.355
.365
.378
.388
.438

120.00
3a oo
28a 00

480.00
144.00
359.99
9a 00
144.00
72.00
480.00
480.00
144.00
144.00
144.00
28a 00
205.71
84.71
240.00
84.71
480.00

♦ moo
160.00

TR
EEIN AND P C IN D
G
A K G EPAR EN
TM T.
Feel for and cut tacks............................................................
Stamp shanks and bottoms..................................................
Emboss..............................- .....................................................
Tree, hand................................................................................
Line and put in heel pads.....................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Brush.........................................................................................
Crown.......................................................................................
Repair.......................................................................................




.414

205.71
205.71
180.00
10.67
90.00
84.71
oa 00
90.00
160.00
32.00

21

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 13.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 0 .—

Men’s Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with
rubber top lift—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.

T otal___________ - ............................ ...................
Grand total

-r

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 8 .—

$0,215
.216
.197
.450
.197
.738
.487
.608

$0,387
.389
.315
.432
.315
.394
.779
.973

180.00
180.00
160.00
96.00
160.00
53.33
160.00
160.00

1,537.500

12.814

.500

_______

10,156.038

Label..................................................................................
Stencil cartons_________ _____________ ____ _________
Sort shoes and stick tags..................................................
Insert and pack shoes in cartons......................................
Floor work_____________________________ _______ ___
Stamp and nail cases.........................................................
Ship__ ______________ ______________________________
Organization__ ______ __ ____ __ __ ____ ________ ____

107.972

.638

33.333
33.333
37.500
62.500
37.500
112.500
37.500
37.500

Women’s McKay, circular vamp, 6 inches high, quarter polish, tip and tongue, sole
and tap, leather heel with rubber top lift.

C T IN D
U T G EPAR EN
TM T.
Put up jobs for cutter............................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand............... ......................
Cut linings, hand...................................................................
Mark sizes................................................................................
Stamp linings...........................................................................
Skive tips................................................................................
General work...........................................................................
Organization............................................................................

16.875
467.000
30.0 00
25.0 00
23.0 00
19.000
6 7.500
16.875

$0,438
7 .7 8 0
.585
.2 6 0
.1 6 8
.49 1
.4 3 7

1.1 7 0
.6 2 4
.5 2 2
.5 3 1
.4 3 6
1.5 5 4

Total..............................................................................

665.250

10.359

.9 3 4

147.000
42,0 00
4 1 ,0 00
4 5 ,0 0 0
60.0 00
65.0 00
130.000

.5 5 9
.5 9 3
.4 8 7
.4 8 4
.5 0 0
.4 6 2
.5 6 5
.5 0 1
.5 8 5
.5 6 0

Sort and tie..............................................................................
Organization.......................................................................... ..

60.0 00
6 0.000
190.000
42.0 00
4 7 .0 00
67.5 00

1 .370
.4 1 5
.3 3 3
.3 6 3
.5 0 0
.5 0 0
1 .225
.8 3 5
.5 8 5
.5 6 0
2 .7 5 0
.2 7 8
.4 1 5
.7 8 8

Total...............................................................................

1 ,0 9 6 .5 0 0

10.917

.5 9 7

84. I l l
110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.8 9 2
1 .069
1 .314
1.033
3 .2 5 3

.6 3 7
.5 8 1
.4 9 6
.5 4 5
.4 6 1

80.0 00

1.4 1 0
.3 0 0

1.0 5 8
.9 0 0

T o t a l ____________________________________________________

2 .0 0
00
10 0
0 .0 0

1.7 1 0

1.0 2 6

T o t a l , so le -le a th e r d e p a r t m e n t .

990.397

9 .2 7 1

.5 6 2

.200

$1,557

10
.0 0

355 .56
12.85

20 0
0 .0
240 .00
260 .87
315.79
8 8 .8 9
355.56

ST C IN D
IT H G EPAR EN
TM T.
Make linings............................................................................
Gum side s t a y s .......................................................................................
Close..........................................................................................
Stay................................................................ - .........................
Close on....................................................................................
Turn........................................- ................................................
Stitch tops................................................................................
Stitch tips................................................................................
Close toes.................................................................................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Vamp ............................................................................................................

10 0
0 .0 0

.868
.3 9 7
.5 3 0
.7 0 0

4 0 .8 2
142.86
146.34
133.33

10 0
0 .0
9 2 .3 1
4 6 .1 5
6 0 .0 0

10 0
0 .0
10 0
0 .0
3 1 .5 8
142.86
127.66
8 8 .8 9

SOLE-LEATH
ER D
EPAR EN
TM T.
Outsoles, leather
__ _______ ______________ _________
Insoles, leather1_________________________________________ _
_
Counters, leather1___________________ _______________________
B o x to e s , le a t h e r *
H e e ls , le a th e r, 8 /8 1

_
-

T

-

T

Stock fitting:
Fit outsoles.......................................................................................
Fit insoles..........................................................................................

7 5 .0 0
300 .00

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several represen*
tative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




22

t im e

a n d la bo r co sts— n e w

En g l a n d

d is t r ic t .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS I N T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued.
NEW
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

E N G L A N D B I S T R I C T — C ontinued.

18.—Women’s M cKay, circular vamp, 6 inches high, quarter polish, tip and tongue, sole
and top, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTIN D
G EPAR EN
TM T.
Put up lasts....... .....
Pull over, hand___
Operate niggerhead.
Organization............

33.750
290.000
125.000
33.750

$0,163
4.590
2.250
.500

$0,290
.950
1.080
.889

Total________

482.500

7.503

.933

74.000
120.000
72.000
91.000
42.000
29.000
40.000
74.000
16.875

.700
1.250
.660
1.720
.630
.320
.278
L050
.469

.568
.625
.550
L 134
.900
.662
.417
.851
1.668

558.875

7.077

.760

Scour heels...............................................................
Set edges................................................................... .
Burnish heels................... .......................................
B u f f ......................................................................... .
Finish bottoms.........................................................
Naumkeag................................................................ .
Pull forms.............................. ...................................
Organization.........................................................—

70.000
60.000
58.000
78.000
81.000
28.000
31.000
16.875

.700
1.050
.700
1.000
1.500
.350
.200
.469

.600
1.650
.724
.769
1.111
.750
.387
1.668

T o ta l.......................... ..................................

422.875

5.969

8.47

31.000
74.000
58.000
28.000
14.000
80.000
33.750
31.000
33.750
33.750

.450
.600
.900
.335
.135
.600
.269
.450
.213
.625

.871
.486
.931
.718
.579
.450
.478
.871
.379
1. Ill

177.78
20.60
48.00
177.78

B TTO IN D
O M G EPAR EN
TM T.
Lay soles—
M cKay sew..
Beat out____
Heel...............
Shave heels..
Breast heels..
Relast............
Trim edges...
Organization.
Total—

81.08
50.00
83.33
65.93
142.86
206.90
150.00
81.08
355.56

FIN IN DEPAR ENT.
ISH G
TM
85.71
100.00
103.45
76.92
74.07
214.29
193.55
355.56

TREEIN AND P C IN D
G
A K G EPAR EN
TM TS.
Clean uppers.... ....................................... - ...............
Dress...........................................................—..........
Iron, hand.—.....................- ..................... ...............
Lace................- ------------- ------------- ------- -------------Brush up--------- ----------- ----------- ----------------------Line-in____ _________________________ _________
Inspect________________________ ____ _________
Pack............. ................................. ...........................
Ship..........................................................................
Organization__________________ ______ _________
Total___________ _____________ _________

417.250

4.577

.658

Grand total____________________________ _

4,633.647

55.673

193.55
81.08
103.45
214.29
428,57
75.00
177.78
193.56
177.78
177.78

.721

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 5 .—Men’s

McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap,
leather heel with rubber top lift.

C TTIN DEPARTM
U
G
ENT.
Sort leather.......................... .............................. .
Pick up jobs for cutters....................................
. Cut vamps, top tips, and tongues, machine
Cut back stays, hand.......................................
inspect cut parts............... — .......................... .
Case up cut parts_______ ________ _______ _
Sort upper leather remnants_______________
Cut eyelet facings, hand_________ _________
Cut leather top facings, hand______________
Skive eyelet facings............................................
Sort and case eyelet facings__________ _____ _
Case heel stays....................................................
Cut cloth linings, machine...............................
Case cloth linings................................... ..........
Cut vamp doublers, machine___ . . . . . . . . ___




15.000
4.400
325.000
50.000
33.000
25.000
32.600
42.000
14.000
5.800
14.700
6.600
2.500
11.000
1.100

$0,158
.053
4.460
.330
.417
.125
.250
.292
.110
.046
.077
.041
.034
.080
.015

$0,632
.723
.823
.396
.758
.300
.460
.417
;471
.476
.314
.373
.816
.436
.818

m oo
1,363.64
18.40
120.00
181.82
240.00
184.05
142.85
428.57
1,034.48
408.16
909.09
2,400.00
545.45
5,454.55

23

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 15.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923.
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
NEW
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 5 — M e n ’ s

E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.

McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap,
leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT— concluded.

Case vamp doublers...............................................................
Cut top doublers, machine...................................................
Case top doublers........ ...........................................................
Cut vamp patches.................................................................
Cut felt heel pads, machine.................................................
Sort felt heel pads...................................................................
Stamp lining............................................................................
Match up linings...................................................................
Mark vamps for tips..............................................................
Mark tops for vamp laps.......................................................
Perforate lace row...................................................................
Skive tips.................................................................................
Punch tips................................................................................
Skive vamps at cut off..........................................................
Perforate vamps.....................................................................
Skive vamps at heel and throat..........................................
Skive tongues..........................................................................
Skive tops narrow at back and bottom.............................
Skive tops for folding.............................................................
Organization................................................. - ........................

3.000
1.900
3.600
.600
.400
2.400
11.700
28.000
15.000
9.200
54.500
10.000
20.000
10.000
53.500
20.000
2.770
23.800
21.700
21.820

$0,023
.026
.027
.009
. .005
.019
.083
.146
.083
.053
.167
.063
.083
.063
.333
.125
.023
.177
.167
.340

$0,460
.821
.450
1.080
.750
.475
.426
.313
.332
.346
.184
.378
.249
.378
.373
.375
.498
.446
.462
.935

Total..............................................................................

896.490

8.503

.569

Stitch cloth heel stays............................................................
Stitch eyelet facings...............................................................
Stitch top facings....................................................................
Stitch lace row perforation...................................................
Paste vamp patch...................................................................
Double vamps........................................ ................................
Double tops.............................................................................
Stitch tips............ ...................................................................
Close vamps............................................................................
Stay vamps..............................................................................
Close tops.................................................................................
Rub down back seams..........................................................
Cement tops for folding........................................................
Fold tops, machine................................................................
Paste eyelet stays...................................................................
Stitch backstays....................................................................
Stitch tops (undertrim).........................................................
Eyelet invisible eyelet..........................................................
Stain edges...............................................................................
Lace, machine, 4-hole...........................................................
Lace, machine, 1-hole.......... .................................................
*Seam linings at toes.............................. ...............................
Vamp 2-needle space row .....................................................
Size out uppers........................................................................
Cripple and general work...... ...............................................
Organization........ .................. .................... ........................

60.000
100.500
40.000
83.333
23.500
42.800
25.700
44.000
25.800
25.800
42.000
10.800
17.500
55.000
42.800
86. 750
204.000
28.000
21.700
20.800
18.400
39.200
323.000
18.400
133.333
21.820

.333
.585
.209
.522
.115
.208
.125
.292
.167
.167
.219
.063
.115
.345
.209
.543
1.417
.282
.125
.125
.115
.250
2.910
.104
.833
.260

.333
.349
.314
.376
.294
.292
.292
.398
.388
.388
.313
.350
.394
.376
.293
.376
.417
.604
.346
.361
.375
.383
.541
.339
.375
.715

Total.......................................................................

1,554.936

10.638

.411

.900
.400
.500
33.540
10.000
16.770
1.210
2.600
6.880
1.730
11.985
4.240

.008
.006
.004
.400
.080
.210
.011
.019
.073
.016
.053
.074

.533
.900
.480
.716
.480
.751
.545
.438
.637
.555
.265
1.047

90.755

.954

.646

2,000.00
3,157.89
1,666.67
12,000.00
15,000.00
2,500.00
512.82
214.29
400.00
652.17
110.09
600.00
300.00
600.00
112.15
300.00
2,166.07
252.10
276.50
274.98

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

100.00
59.70
150.00
72.00
255.32
140.19
233.46
136.36
232.56
232.56
142.86
555. 55
342.86
109.09
140.19
69.16
29.41
214.29
276.50
288.46
326.09
153.06
18.58
326.09
45.00
274.98

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsolos:
Sort stock........................................................................
Pile near machine............. ..............................................
Pile on machine.................................... ..........................
Cut...................................................................................
Grade and skive...............................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Count............................ ....................................................
Put away...........................................................................
Case........ - ................. ............................ ..........................
Ship.............................................. ................................... .
General work....................................................................
Organization....................................................................
Total_____ _____________________________ _




6,666.67
15,000.00
12,000.00
178.89
600.00
357.78
4,958.68
2,307.69
872.09
3,468.21
500.63
1,415.07

24

T IM E A N D LABOR. COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T A N D OPERATION— Continued.
NEW
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .—

E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.

Men's McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap,
leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— continued.

Insoles:
C u t................................. _.............. ...................................
___
Grade and skive
Sort_____________________ _____ __________________
Put away___________ _____________________________
Case__ ________________________ ________ _________
Ship....................................................................................
.... .
_
Gfinpral workOrganization_____________________________________

31.900
10.190
14.710
1.440
5.090
1.730
11.935
4.520

$0,365
.068
.185
.015
.048
.015
.052
.063

$0,687
.400
.755
.625
.566
.520
.260
.836

81.505

.811

.597

Taps:
Cut_____________________________________ _________
Grade________
__ ________ ___ : __________ _
Butt______________________________________________
Sort and put away_ _ _ _
__
Case___ : ______ A ________________________________
Ship
____
Organization______________________________________

28.880
10.080
6.250
10.000
6.150
.450
1.373

.290
.083
.050
.100
.055
.004
.021

.603
.494
.480
.600
.537
.533
.918

Total.......................................................................

63.183

.603

.573

28.880
8.000
8.660
4.000
4.600
2.450
3.760
2a 000
4.810
.200
3.400
.450
3.965
5.600

.292
.070
.090
.035
.040
.023
.034
.180
.045
.002
.034
.004
.038
.128

.607
.525
.624
.525
.522
.563
.543
.540
.561
.600
.600
.533
.575
1.371

98.775

1.015

.617

1.480
4.060
2.640
3.560
.410
1.000,

.015
.045
.022
.033
.003
.017

.608
.665
.500
.556
.439
1.020

13.150

.135

.616

50.000
134.510
6.500
7.210
23.280
6.750
10.000
3.070
7.420
3.110
3.640
.860
23.070
5.550

.261
1.125
.045
.051
.220
.038
.063
.030
.062
.029
.034
.007
.177
.079

.313
.502
.415
.424
.567
.338
.378
.586
.501
.559
.560
.488
.460
.854

284.970

2.221

.468

188.09
588.81
407.89
4,16a 67
1,178.78
3,468.21
500.63
1,327.41

Total______ _________________ _____ ________

Counters:
Cut_______________________________________________

__

Grade and skive

Sort flat__________________________________________
Skive_____________________________________________

Trim finds
Tamper
"Roll
Mold
Sort molded

___

_ _
___
________

_

Put away _

___

Case____
Ship

_____

_ _ _ ______

_

General work____________________ ________________

Organization

_

__ ......

Total.............................. ...............................................
Box toes:
C u t___

Skive
Sort........................................................................ .........
Case................................................................ .................

Ship _
Organization __

____________
__ _ _

_

Total...............................................................................
Heels (log method and rands):
Make rands (cut, grade, crimp, etc.)______________
Make logs (cut lifts, build logs, etc.)_______________
Saw log blanks____________ ______ _____ __________

Gouge log blanks

Tack rands_______________________________________
Butt rands

Compress heels
Buff heels_________ ______ ________ _______________

Sort heels ^
Case heels
Case rubber top lift
__ .
Ship heel and top lift_____
General work
OrganizationTotal

_.




__

__________ .

_ _

______________
_

___

_ _

207.76
595.24
960.00
600.00
975.61
13,333.33
4,369.99

207.76
750.00
692.84
1,500.00
1,304.35
2,448.97
1,595.74
300.00
1,247.40
30,000.00
1,764.71
13,333.33
1,513.24
1,071.43

4,054.05
1,477.83
2,272.73
1,685.39.
14,634.15
6,000.00

120.00
44.61
923.07
832.18
257.73
888.88
600.00
1,954.40
808.63
1,929.26
1,648.35
6,976.75
260. G
8
1,081.08

25

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 15.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .—Men’s

KcKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with
tap, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— concluded.

Stock fitting:
Round insoles..................................................................
Mold insoles.....................................................................
Inspect and check out insoles.......................................
Welt outsoles................................... : ..............................
Case outsoles and taps................................. *...............
Stamp sizes and case number, outsoles.......................
Roll outsoles.....................................................................
Round outsoles................................................................
Channel outsoles.............................................................
Stitch top to outsole.......................................................
Trim taps.........................................................................
Gouge outsoles.................................................................
Tack shanks.....................................................................
Mold outsoles...................................................................
Paraffin outsoles..............................................................
Welt channels..................................................................
Turn channels..................................................................
Stain edges........................................................................
Inspect and cheek out outsoles.....................................
General work...................................................................
Organization.....................................................................

14.300
7.500
6.000
10.000
6.000
6.000
6.000
22.800
16.800
48.000
22.800
11.670
16.700
13.450
6.000
3.330
15.700
10.000
12.000
3.965
3.240

$0,115
.052
.042
.063
.042
.042
.042
.198
.146
.324
.167
.063
.125
.094
.042
.021
.146
.083
.083
.038
.074

$0,483
.416
.420
.378
.420
.420
.420
.521
.521
.405
.439
.324
.449
.419
.420
.378
.558
.498
.415
.575
1.370

Total

262.255

2.002

.458

Total, sole-leather department____ ________ ___ _

894.653

7.741

.519

Case lasts.................................................................................
Throw lasts (in bins)............................................................
Case up work..........................................................................
Tack insoles.............................................................................
Assemble.................................................................................
Pull over, machine, and put in box toes..................... .
Side last, machine.................................................................
Operate bed machine.............................................................
Pull tacks, insoles...................................................................
Pound toes...............................................................................
Tack outsoles..........................................................................
Pull lasts..................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

18.000
23.400
19.500
40.000
68.750
92.000
100.000
195.000
10.800
22.500
42.500
38.000
21.820

.125
.146
.136
.250
.480
.959
.959
2.000
.125
.292
.418
.260

.417
.374
.418
.375
.419
.625
.575
.615
.694
.779
.590
.526
.715

Total.......... ..................................................................

692.270

6.483

.562

21.850
64.200
32.000
24.000
24.000
31.500
28.800
34.300
34.300
28.000
30.000
20.900
100.000
21.820

.135
.667
.167
.115
.125
.198
.250
.418
.167
.250
.313
.167
1.000
.340

.371
.623
.313
.288
.313
.377
.521
.731
.292
.536
.626
.501
.600
.935

494.770

4.312

.523

419.58
800.00
1,000.00
600.00
1,000.00
1,000.00
1,000.00
263.16
357.14
125.00
263.16
514.14
359.28
446.10
1,000.00
1,801.80
382.17
600.00
500.00
1,513.24
1,851.85

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

.333

333.33
256.41
307.69
150.00
87.27
65.22
60.00
30.77
555.55
266.67
141.18
157.89
274.98

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Loose nail heel seat...................................................... .........
McKay sew ............................................................................
Cement channels....................................................................
Wet channels...........................................................................
Lay channels...........................................................................
Wheel edges.............................................................................
Level.........................................................................................
Heeling (off last).....................................................................
Help heeler................................ _............................................
•
Shave heels..............................................................................
Breast heels..............................................................................
Trim edges......... .......................... ..........................................
Organization.......................................................... ................
Total___

. ___




, __ ^ _____

______ - ____

274.60
93.46
187.50
250.00
25a 00
190.48
208.33
174.93
174.93
214.29
200.00
300.00
60.00
274.98

26

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTR ICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E O F 100 PAIRS OF SHOES I N 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION--Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 5 .—

Men’s McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap,
leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
$0,474
.626
.418
.357
.482
.721
.521
.470
.520
.445
.374
.420
.374
.414
.417
.605

3.942

.512

32.000
10.000
24.000
178.000
65.000
75.900
33.330
30.000
25.900
1L 700
3.330

.167
.050
.136
1.540
.584
.542
.208
.208
.167
.083
.028
.178
.125
.110

.313
.300
.340
.519
.539
.428
.374
.416
.387
.426
.505
.534 .

538.070

4.126

.460 ,

5,533.259

Total

$0,292
.709
.115
.104
.281
.673
.188
.261
.333
.167
.104
.261
.104
.115
.125
.110

462.070

Scour heels, first time.......................................................
Set edges (once).................................................................
Scour heels, second tim e...........- .....................................
Stain heels— ........................................ .................... .
Burnish heels........................ - ............ .........................
Scour bottom s...................................................................
Dust ofF and girm
_ __ _
Paint bottom s..................................................................
ftnin and brush bottoms
......
Wan bottom s........................ ......................... _............ .
Cut lacing strings..............................................................
P*pll lasts
^
.... . _
.T . . __
T
Wheel bottoms and breasts..............................................
Brand bottoms.................... —......................................
General work___ __________________________________
Organization— ............................................. ..................

45.745

37.000
68.000
16.500
17.500
35.000
56.00021.650
33.300
38.400
22.500
16.670
37.300
16.670
16.670
18.000
10.910

162.16
88.24
363.64
342.86
171.43
107.14
277.14
180.18
156.25
266.67
359.93
160 86
359.93
359.93
333.33
549.95

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Inspect for tacfcs........ .....................................................
Sock fining.......... ............... - ..................................... ......
Paste bed pad..................................................................
Tree, hand........ ................ ......................... ....................
Repair tan leather_______ ________________________
Dress............................................. ........... ......... ......... .
Lace.....................— .......................................................
Brush heels and edges____________________ ________ _
Pack................................... - ................ ............................
Seal fiber cases...................... —............................................
Stamp fiber cases............... —........................ .....................
Ship................ ........................................... ......................
General work......... ............................... ........... ........... ......
Organization.............. ........... ........................... .................
T otal............ ........ ........................ .............. ................
Grand total

_ .. .

E ste& U sh m ew t N o . 1 8 .—

T

20.000

18.000
10.910

.4 1 7 :

.605

187.50
600.00
250.00
33.71
92.31
79.05
180.02
200.00
231.66
512.82
1,801.80
800.00
333.33

549.95
1L 51

.496

Women’s Goodyear welt, 8 " polish, black kid, f-fold vamp, stitched tip fold,
Mack finish, 8/8-leather heel with rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand................. ....................
Cut linings, hand............... .................. ................................
Cut trimmings, hand............................................................
Dink trimmings.................. ...................................................
Skive quarters, uppers, tips, and backstays.....................
Stamp linings.
Perforate tips...........................................................................
Sweep__________________ —..................................................
Organization........ ................„..................................................
Total

_

__________

776.669
57.383
82.598
30.000
145.000
45.609
21.000
12.796
102.370

$14.670
.850
1.060
.300
1.840
.380
.240
.066
1.706

$1.134
.889
.770
.600
.761
.500
.686
.309
1.000

1,273.416

21.112

.995

24.000
235.997
105.000
90.000
31.000
45.000
147.000
38.667
45.000
65.000

.240
2.360
.950
.480
.340
.270
.960
.290
.270
.270

.600
.600
.543
..320
.658
.360
.392
.450
.360
.249

7.73
104.58
72.64
200.00
4L38
131.58
285.71
468.90
58.61

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Press vamps, machine...........................................................
Press quarters, tips, and backstays................. ......... .........
Close backs, quarters, side, and back up
Close side stays (zig-zag)................................. ....................
Close linings...... .....................................................................
Close top facings............................................... .......... ..........
Stay seams................................................................................
Rub seams...................... ........................................................
Line vamps..............................................................................
Tape vamps..................................................................—




250.00
25.43
57.14
66.67
193.55
133.33
40.82
155.17
133.33
92.31

27

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 18.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G 2 jAN J> D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 8 .—Women's

Goodyear welt, 8" polish, black kid, f-fold vamp, stitched tip fold,
black finish, 8/8-leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded.

Cement side stays..........................................................
Cement toe pieces..................................................................
Make linings ..........................................................................................
Close toe....... ...........................................................................
Black edges—...........................................................................
Eyelet........................................................................................
Stitch tongue linings..............................................................
Stitch tips................................................................................
Stitch backstays..... ....................................-..................
Stitch tops.....................................................................
Vamp...................................... ......................................

$0,535
.270
.600
.756
.544
.600
.397
.811
.600
.578
.700
.514
.514
.375
.350
.833

Pack........................................................................ —
Odd shoe work____ ___________________________________
Organization............................................................................

55.000
000
172.003
50.000
43. 000
81.000
62.000
57.000
108.001
271.000
370.286
35.000
35.000
36.800
102.370
102.370

$0,490
.270
1.720
.630
.390
.810
.410
.770
1.080
2.610
4.320
.300
.300
.230
.597
1.422

Total...............................................................................

2,467.494

22.779

84.111
lia404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.498
.545
.461

24.000
7.000
28.000
3h 750
51.185
12.798
51.185

.270
.110
.110
.880
.270
.700
.420
.420
.130
.045
.180
.320
.070
.300
.410
.379
.066
.948

.736
.660
.733
1.173
.377
.560
.494
.663
.279
.450
.675
.800
.600
.643
.800
.444
.309

547. 916

6.028

.660

1,438.313

13.589

.567

31.000
860.000
270.000
12.798
17.062

.430
10.890
3.870
.052
.379

.832
.760
.860
.244
1.333

1,190.858

15.621

.787

57.000
43.000
58.000
136.000
44.000
66.858

.390
.270
.720
2.920
.390
.780

.411
.377
.745
1.288
.532
.700

.554 ;

109.09
100.00
34.88
120.00
139.53
74.08
96.77
105.26
55.56
22.14
16.20
171.43
171.43
163.04
58.61
58.61
2.43

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles, leather* _
____ _ _ _
_ _ _
Insoles, leather*
_
_
___
Counters, leather!.
.. .
. . _
Box toes, leather! _
______
.
_ ......
Heels, leather, 8/81 ....... ................. - ___________________
Stock fitting:
Round insoles..........................................................
Cut toes, insoles......................................................
Stamp insoles..................................................................
Channel and knife insoles........................................
Cement insoles.................................................. ......
Set lips insoles..................................................................
Form insoles.....................................................................
Trim insoles__________________ ________________
Count, sort, and tie-up insoles......................................
Wet outsoles...................................................................
Skive and roll outsoles...................... ........................
Round outsoles.............................. ................... .....
Stamp outsoles........... ............................................
Shank outsoles________________________ _____ _
Forepart..-........... ............................................... ..........
Odd shoe work.......... ............................. ........................
Sweep............................................. .... ..................
Organization...........................................................
Total_____________________________________

Total, sole-leather departm
ent. . . . .

_

22.000
10.000
9.000
45.000
43.000
75.000
51.000
38.000
28.000
6. G O
O

m ooo

1I l l
.

272.73
600.00
666.67
133.33
139.53
80.00
117.65
157.89
214.29
1000.00
375.00
250.00
857.14
214.29
185.12
117.22
468.90
117. 22

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Put up lasts.........................................- .......................
Pull over, hand.............. - .......................................... .
Operate bed machine....................................................
Operate elevator...................................................................
Organization— ................. - .............................................. .

Total

___

193.55
6.98
22.22
468.80
351.66

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim uppers, machine.............................................. ............
Staple................ .................—......... ......................................
Pull side tacks, machine.............................................. .........
Goodyear welt....................................................................... .
Pull bottom tacks, machine........ .........................................
Trim inseams, machine.......................................................
1 These are purchased.
sentative establishm ents.




105.26
139.53
103.45
44.12
136.36
89.74

The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
See p p . 132-140.

28

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women’s Goodyear welt, 8* polish, black kid, Hold vamp, stitched tip fold,
black finish, 8/8-leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 8 .—

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.*

Tack, butt, and slash............................................................
Beat welts................................................................................
Fill bottoms.................... ......................................................
Cement shoes..........................................................................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Tack heel seats........................................................................
Rough round...........................................................................
Turn channels.........................................................................
Reduce shanks.........................................................................
Goodyear stitch.......................................................................
Cement channels....................................................................
Lay channels.................., .......................................................
Level.........................................................................................
Break shanks...........................................................................
Loose nailing............................................................................
Nail rubber heels....................................................................
Nail heels................................................................................
Shave heels...............................................................................
Breast heels...................... ......................................................
Trim edges...............................................................................
General work...........................................................................
Operate elevators....................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

110.000
35.143
46.000
27.000
45.000
11.143
78.000
26.000
30.857
148.000
18.857
33.000
60.000
27.000
43.000
105.000
85.000
63.000
32.000
170.000
51.185
12.796
12.796
17.062

$1,040
.410
.450
.320
.700
.130
1.300
.320
.360
3.240
.220
.300
1.230
.450
.450
1.900
1.430
1.530
.530
4.090
.436
.052
.066
.379

$0,567
.700
.587
.711
.933
.700
1.000
.738
.700
1.3^3
.700
.545
1.230
1.000
.628
1.086
1.009
1.457
.994
1.443
.511
.244
.309
1.333

Total...............................................................................

1,692.697

26.803

.950

45.000
115.988
115.988
235.000
35.000
35.000
116.000
70.000
54.400
105.000
90.000
30.000
80.000
12.796
17.062

.580
1.590
1.590
4.030
.630
.740
1.590
.970
.680
1.600
1.350
.180
.630
.052
.379

.773
.823
.823
1.029
1.080
1.269
.822
.831
.750
.914
.900
.360
.473
.244
1.333

1,157.234

16.591

.860

303.750

4.050
.430
.380
.430
.650
1.120
1.200
.379
.066
.052
L573

.800
.379
.750
.469
.650
.480
.480

Sweep........................................................................................
Operate elevators.............................................................. .
Organization........................ ............................... ..................

30.400
55.000
60.000
140.000
150.000
51.185
12.796
12.796
102.370

.309
.244
.922

Total...............................................................................

986.297

10.330

•628

10,206.309

126.825

.746

54.55
170.74
130.43
222.22
133.33
538.46
76.92
230.77
194.45
40.54
318.19
181.82
100.00
222.22
139.53
57.14
70.59
95.24
187.50
35.29
117.22
468.90
468.90
351.66

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour breasts...........................................................................
Scour heels, first time................................. ..........................
Scour heels, second time.......................................................
Set edges..................................................................................
Slick, first and third times.....................................................
Slick, second time..................................................................
Finish heels.................... ......... .............................................
Buff............................................................................................
Naumkeag..................................................*............................
Finish bottoms........................................................................
Clean.........................................................................................
Brush edges.................. ..........................................................
Pull lasts..................................................................................
Operate elevators....................................................................
Organization............................................................................

Total___

_

...

ril.

133.33
51.73
51.73
25.53
171.43
171.43
51.72
85.71
110.30
57.14
66.67
200.00
75.00
468.90
351.66

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Tree, hand...............................................................................
Line-in......................................................................................
Buff insoles..............................................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Repair.......................................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................

Grand total_______




_

T r___
T

68.000

.444

19.75
88.24
197.37
109.09
100.00
42.86
4a 00
117.22
468.90
468.90
58.61

29

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 20.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R ICT , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

£0—Women’s McKay, patent leather, one-strap, side seam pump, stitch imitation
binding all around, single sole, 1% .leather heel with rubber top lift.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Put up stock for cutters....................................................
Cut outsides, hand...........................................................
Cut linings, hand..............................................................
Cut trimmings, hand.......................................................
Dink sock linings..............................................................
Skive vamp line................................................................
Mark and stamp...............................................................
Organization......................................................................

30.000
416.667
41.667
250.000
11. I ll
25.000
27.778
120.000

Total........................................................................

922.223

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

$0,444
7.500
.625
2.778
.183
.250
.208
1.556
13.544
=========

$0,888
1.080
.900
.667
.988
.600
.449
.778

200.00
14.40
144.00
24.00
540.01
240.00
216.00
50.00

.881

300.000
30.000
33.333
166.667
41.667
194.444
250.000
266.667
30.000
30.000
33.333
30.000
30.000
27.778
30.000
30.000
30.000
30.000
60.000
120.000

1.083
.250
.361
1.500
.278
3.056
5.083
5.583
.417
.444
.250
.208
.208
.250
.167
.167
.208
.178
.400
1.444

.217
.500
.650
.540
.400
.943
1.220
1.256
.834
.888
.450
.416
.416
.540
.334
.334
.416
.356
.400
.722

1,763.889

21. 535

.733

Outsnles, leather l
Insoles, leather1___________________________________
OoUTitfirs, leather l
.
Box toes, leather1
__________ _______________________
Heels, leather, women’s, 8/81_______________________

84.111
110.404
158.915
113. 788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.545
.461

Stock fitting:
Wet soles, roll, and skive....... ....................................
Round.........................................................................
Channel and stamp....................................................
Shank out...................................................................
Flesh...........................................................................
Put in shanks.............................................................
M o ld .........................................................................
Mark case number on outsoles..................................
Turn channels............................................................
Stain edges..................................................................
Wax............................................................................
Dink insoles................................................................
Slash insoles ...............................................................
Cement insoles...........................................................
Put in boxes..............................................................
Mark insoles............ ..................................................
General work.............. w
..............................................
Organization...............................................................

11. I ll
19.444
25.000
13.889
16.667
13.889
15.000
2.778
18.750
13.889
13.889
16.667
a 333
8.333
19.444
5.556
30.000
30.000

.208
.300
.419
.250
.250
.139
.192
.017
.283
.111
.111
.333
.139
.069
.222
.056
.167
.500

1.123
.926
1.006
1.080
.900
.600
.768
.367
.906
.480
.480
1.199
1.001
.497
.685
.605
.334
1.000

Press vamp line.......... .....................................................
Close vamps......................................................................
Stay vamps.......................................................................
Make linings.....................................................................
Rub seams.......................................................... —...........
Vamp................................................................................
Stitch bindings, vamps, and quarters............................
Pump stitch (including hold stay)..................................
Make buttonholes.............................................................
Sew on buttons.................................................................
Button...............................................................................
Trim buttonholes.............................................................
Line vamps.......................................................................
Iron vamp stays................ ...............................................
Cement button stays........................................................
Cement stiffeners..............................................................
Pack...................................................................................
Floor work........................................................................
Odd shoe work..................................................................
Organization......................................................................
Total

_

_____

20.00
200.00
180.00
36.00
144.00
30.86
24.00
22.50
200.00
.200.00
180.00
200.00
200.00
216.00
200.00
200.00
200.00
200.00
100.00
50.00

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total_____________ 1__________________

____

Total, sole-leather department

_.

i These are purchased.
sentative establishm ents.

.

__

282.639

3.766 |

.799

1,173.036

11.327 |

.579

T he average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
See p p . 132-140.

84791°— 24t----- 3




.

540.01
308.58
240.00
432.00
360.00
432.00
400.00
2,159.83
320.00
432.00
432.00
359.99
720.03
720.03
308.58
1,079.91
200.00
200.00

SO

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT.

TIM E A N D LA BO R COSTS IN T H E M ANUFACTURE OF KM BAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T, A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —C ontinued.
JSfe. «9.—Women's M cK ay, patent leather, one-strap, side seam pump, stitch imitation
binding all around, single sole, 1 % leather heel with rubber top M —Concluded.
ffc

E s ta b lis h m e n t

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs
(minutes). of 160 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

41.667
27.778
188.889
100.000
300.000
60:000
27.778
27.778
100.00
30.656
41.667
30.000
30.000

$0,250
.250
21444
1.500
4.375
.667
.250
.167
1.472
.417
.167
.200
.556

$0360
.540
.776
.900
.875
.667
.540
.361
.883
.819
.240
.400
1.112

1,006.113

12.715

.758

Nail heel seat........
M cKay sew______
Line-in...................
Cement channels-.
Beat out..........— .
Heel................... ....
Slug heels________
Relast. ..........—
Shave heels.......... .
Breast heels______
Trim edges---------Sw eep--................
Organization_____

16.667
100.000
60000
30000
75.000
60000
16.667
30000
41.667
30 000
136. Ill
30000
30000

.319
2.060
.600
.278
1.600
1.250
.319
.481
1.028
.489
2.333
.200
.500

1.148
1.200
.600
.556
1.280
1.250
1.148
.962
1.480
.978
1.028
.400
1.000

Total---------

656.112

11.397

1.042

50.000
22.222
150.000
97.222
60000
30 C O
O
75.000
55.556
75.000
22.222
97.222
30000
30 000

$0,981
.342
2.625
1.469
1.000
.400
.800
1.000
1.078
.542
2.531
.178
.500

$1.177
.923
L 050
.907
1.000
.800
.640
1.080
.862
1.463
1.562
.350
1.000

794.444

13.446

1.016

333.333
500000
60000
60000
22.222
13.889
250000
13.389
30000
60000

7.000
5.833
.500
.333
.167
.194
2.500
.139
.256
.694

1.260
.700
.500
.333
.451
.838
.600
.600
.512
.694

Pick lasts.......................................
Wet toes...... ..................................
Assemble for pull-over machine.
PtLff over, machine ......................
Operate niggerhead-----------------Pound up.......................................
Buff patent tip.............................
Putin filler...................................
Lay soles; nail toes...................~
Pull la s ts .....................................
Take out tacks In pumps.........._
Odd shoe work.......................... 1 1
Organization.................... ............
Total....... ...........................

.

144,00
210 ©0
31.7$
60.09
20.00
160.00
216.00
216.00
60.06
196.36
1* K 00

200. C
O
200.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

360.00
60.00
100.00
20009
80.00
100.00
36009
209.09
144.00
200.09
44.08
200.00
200.00

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour heels, first time.................................
Scour breasts, first tiinfe.............................
Set edges........................................................
Scour heels and slick, second time...........
Buff........................................... .....................
Naumkeag....................................................
Black and stain bottoms_______________
Roll bottoms............................. ..................
Burnish heels...............................................
Pull lasts.......................................................
Clean.............................................................
General work................... .......................... .
Organization__________________ _________
Total____________ ______ _____

120.00
270.00
40 00
61.71
100.09
200 69
8009
108.09
80.0Q
27000
61.71
200.00
200.00

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Iron, band..........., ................... - .............................
Repair.......................................................................
linet-in.............. ................... ................................. .
Button-................................. - ..................... ...........
Brush bottoms-................. — ................... ...........
Stamp cartons............................ ...........................
Pack...................- ............... .......... .........................
Nail cases............. ........................ .........................
Ship......................................................................... .
Organization...... .................... ................. .............
Total.............................................................

.

1,343.333

17.616

.787

Grand total............... .......... ........................

_

7,659.150

101.580

.796




18.00
12.00
100.00
100.00
270.00
432.00
24.00
432.00
200.00
160.00

ESTABLISHMENT HO.

2L
.

31

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 1 .—Men's

Goodyear welt, tan calf, blucher oxford, single sole, leather heel with rubber
top lift.

Time cost Labor
of 1 0pairs of 1 0 cost
0
0 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

C T IN D P R M N .
UT G E A T E T
2 .7 7
22
Stock-room work.......................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine
54 4
8 .8 8
2 .7 7
22
Sort___ 1
______________ 1
_______________________
Mart matches
__. . _
3 .3 3
00
Mark vamps ___ _
_ . _
_
33
.0 0
Skive____
11 1
2 .2 2
Cut cloth linings, machine. _ _
_
4 .4 5
55
66
.0 1
Cut block trimmings_____________________________
3 .3 3
00
Case-up cloth linings_____________________________
Crimp*facmgs.
~
...
.. . .
77
.5 6
Crimp uppers,
. . _
1 .6 7
99
Punch tips. . __ T _
.. _
_
_ _
77
.5 6
Assemble
... „„r
_
_ .
77
.5 6
4 .6 6
33
Organization................................................................
92 2
5 .7 7
Total....................................................................
S IT H G D P R M N .
T C IN E A T E T
Cheek_____
. _. _ ___ .. . _
33
.0 0
Give on work and odd jobs _ _
t.
2 .2 3
77
77
.5 6
Sort tops_______________________________________
Cement tops for folders....
. ...
. T.
1 .1 2
55
7 .7 8
88
Fold...............................................................................
Double top.
__.
5 .0 1
66
Double trimmings . . . .
......
2 .2 3
77
Seam top
s*.
. ..
_
.. .
3 .8 9
77
Mark eyelet rows.
.. .
......._ .
4 .6 2
44
Stitch eyelet rows,
4 .7 0
35
Hook
6 .6 4
66
Stitch hack stays.
16 6
1 .6 7
Stamp linings.
1 .1 2
55
Seam linings.
.
. ._ .
7 .2 2
11
3 .3 4
66
Paste hook stays.__________ _____ ________________
3 .5 0
70
Stitch top facings.___________ _____ ______________
Paste top to linings
___
3 .3 3
00
Turn hals.
. . . .
_
8 .3 3
33
_ _ _ _ _ ........ _ _
T ndeirtrim ...... . .
T
18 8
2 .7 8
Dyelet
__
_. ___.
2 .5 5
94
Lace . ...... ...... . . . . . . . . . .
. ........
2 .2 2
11
1 .6 6
33
Seam toe lining._________________________________
Trim hook stays. _
_ _
3 .8 9
88
1 .6 7
66
Trim back stays.________________________________
Trim hlneher lining.
.........
2 .7 7
77
Line tongues
5. 56
77
Liue tips _
„r
. ......
_ ._
3 .3 3
33
Stiteh tips, first row
___
3 .8 9
77
4 .4 4
22
Stitch tips, box rows_____________________________
S vamps
ort,
__
_ _
1 .6 7
99
3 . 30
33
Seam vamps and foxings__________________________
Stitch blind stays
3 .3 0
33
Double vamps _
.......
__
.
4 .9 9
33
Perforate vamps
5 .0 0
00
Trim under perforations
.
5 .0 9
00
Stitch hlneher tongues ._
_
6 .4 4
94
Vamp
......... . .
. __
246 6
4. 5
Trim tongues
...........
_ ._
1 .6 7
99
Brace hlneher vamps
..............
2 .7 9
77
Stain edges
. ... _
1 .7 8
48
Check . . .
_ _ _ _ _
77
.5 6
4 .6 6 |
33
Organization........ .............................. .........................
, 0 .1 7 I
Total.................................................................... L 9 4 1 i
SO E E T E D P R M N .
L -L A H R E A T E T
9 08
$. 0
Outsoles1................................ _...............................................
Insoles:

Cnt
Sort

.

..._
_____
_
_
_
_.

Case.................................................................._........
Total................................................ .......... ....................

Counters, leather 1
■ oy toes, leather 1
R

. __ _

_

.
.......

4 .4 5
55
4 .4 5
55
3 .3 3
33
14 4
2 .2 3
18 1 i
5 .9 5 1
13 8 |
1 .7 8

$0 2
,3 2

79
.8 5
.3 7
0
.1 5
5
.0 7
1
18
.1 2
.5 3
6
.0 7
3
.1 3
7
.0 0
6
.1 3
6
.0 5
4
.0 4
5
.500
1 .4 8
17
.0 1
2
.3 3
0
.1 3
0
.1 8
7
.680
.3 6
6
.1 5
5
.3 6
9
.2 8
0
.4 2
9
15
.1 8
.972
.1 0
6
.5 5
0
.2 2
6
.3 0
1
.4 1
4
.5 0
1
13
.1 4
.3 4
9
.1 7
9
.1 5
1
.1 4
8
.1 1
3
.1 9
5
.6 5
6
.2 3
5
.4 7
8
.4 7
8
.1 1
1
.3 0
1
.2 1
8
.2 3
5
.5 2
6
.2 6
3
.7 1
3
321
. 0'
.0 4
9
.2 5
2
.0 6
7
.0 0
7
5
. 60
1 .2 6
88
11
.0 0
.5 8
6
.4 4
6
.3 0
4
17
.3 2
11
.3 4
13
.0 3

Hourly
wages.

$0 5
,8 0

.8 0
1
.8 0
1
.3 7
0
.3 7
3
.5 5
8
.750
.3 6
6
.3 3
4
.4 5
7
.4 7
9
.3 6
5
.4 8
2
.688
.7 3
2
.4 6
1
.6 7
6
.8 6
1
.6 5
6
.5 8
1
.3 2
9
.3 1
4
.6 7
2
.2 0
8
.6 5
7
14
.0 2
.5 0
0
.6 4
3
.4 6
2
.4 2
3
.4 6
9
.8 3
7
.3 7
6
.528
.8 0
0
.5 7
5
.5 6
0
.2 4
8
.4 2
7
.3 3
4
.6 3
9
.4 5
5
.7 1
7
. 69
S
.3 8
3
.5 8
5
.5 0
0
.3 5
4
.6 4
7
.2 3
8
.6 2
3
.8 0
0
.2 6
8
.4 6
8
.3 8
0
.5 4
5
.8 4
9
.5 6
7
.6 9
1
.7 0
5
.6 2
1
.6 2
1
.6 3
6
.4 6
9
.5 5
4

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

24 0
6 .0
1 .2
06
24 0
6 .0
18 0
9 .0
19 0 0
, 8 .0
4 .5
90
12 0
3 .0
99 4
8 .9
18 0
9 .0
71 7
9 .9
34 1
0 .6
71 7
9 .9
71 7
9 .9
17 0
3 .5
19 0 0
, 8 .0
20 0
2 .0
71 7
9 .9
35 9
9 .9
7 .1
65
17 2
0 .0
20 0
2 .0
18 0
5 .4
14 0
3 .4
17 4
3 .1
9 .0
09
5 .4
13
35 9
9 .9
8 .2
46
15 0
6 .0
10 0
6 .0
18 0
9 .0
7 .0
20
4 .5
69
23 8
9 .0
22 6
3 .-8
40 1
4 .0
14 2
5. 9
39 9
5 .9
26 1
1 .0
14 2
0. 1
10 0
8 .0
18 0
5 .4
11 4 .
4. 2
346
0. 1
10 2
8 .0
10 2
8 .0
16 5
3 .5
10 0
2 .0
10 0
2 .0
8 .4
60
2 .5
43
311
06
25 9
1 .9
45 3
0 .7
71 7
9 .9
17 0
3 .5

m oo

12 0
3 .0
10 9
8 .0

1 These are purchased. T h e average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishm ents. See p p . 122-140.




TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT.

32

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 21 .—Men’s

Goodyear welt, tan calf, blueher oxford, single sole, leather heel with rubber
top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

SO
LE-LEATH DEPARTM
ER
ENT—Concluded.
Heels:
•
Tack heels (hnilders) _
__
_
_ _
Tack rands
Compress heels
Seour heels (leather)
_
ficnnr heels (rubber) __
_
Lump
Total............................................... ........................
Stock fitting:
(live nnt. work
_
_ ____
Channel
....
.
Turn lips
Cut cloth
__ _
Set lips __
_______
___
Johnson trim__
Lump _
Tie u p_____ _
____ _ __
Organization __
_
Total........................................................................
Total, sole-leather department
_ _
LASTIN D
G EPAR EN
TM T.
(live out work
__ ___
Aasemhle leather heels
_
_____
Aasemhle mhher heels
.
A.ssemhle solas and counters
_ _.
Pick lasts
.....
.
.

36.000
24.212
6.061

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

$0,750
.413
.485
.337
.339
.416
.501

166.67
247.50
989.94
282.86
440.01
495.01

113.272

$0,450
.167
.049
.119
.077
.084
.946

30.303
34.848
7.576
13.636
45.455
36.364
22.727
10.606
43.636

.374
.450
.048
.070
.314
.251
.170
.058
650

.741
.775
.380
.308
.414
.414
.449
.328
.894

198.00
172.18
791.97
440.01
132.00
165.00
264.00
565.72
137.50

245.151
853.377

2.385
8.060

.584
.567

7.576
15.152
15.152
9.091
30.303
10.606
40.909
6.061
137.879
87.879
84.848
243.939

11 1
2 .2 2

.059
.085
.095
.081
.356
.077
.427
.032
1.775
1.725
1.708
4.875
1.250

.467
.337
.376
.535
.705
.436
.626
.317
.772
1.178
1.208
1.199
.619

43.636

.450

.619

Total______________ : _____ ______________
B TTO IN DEPAR EN
O M G
TM T.
Trim uppers .
r
___
Pull tacks
Staple _

854.243

12.995

.913

2 . 212
1
37.879

Goodyear welt___________________________________
Trim seams___________________________________________
Beat welts____________________________________________

98.485
45.455
30.303
57.576
60.606
15.152
19.682
38.374
22.727
75.758
159.091
21.758
20.255
28.788
45.230
32.142

.244
.490
.272
2.250
.435
.272
.718
.546
.131
.131
.544
.292
1.125
2.625
.218
.169
.303
.490
.375
.188
.188
.188
.217
.284
.942
1.242
.900
.412
3.075
.490
.450
20.206

.690
.776
.769
1.371
.574
.539
.748
.541
.519
.400
.850
.771
.891
.990
.600
.500
.632
.650
.700
.532
.621
.827
.639
.450
1.250
1.447
1.150

Push racks__________________________ •________________
_
Tack and trim insoles _
_
___T
Mark off work________________________________________
Assemble for pull-over machine.................... .....................
Poll over, machine
_
...... „
Side last, machine _
_ ________
Operate bed machines___
_ _
r

Crown
Organization

___

_

_

-

T.. „

Knock insole tacks and butt welts
_ _, „ nr.
Fill bottoms and tack'shanks
_ _
_
Cement bottoms *
_
_ r .. r.
Cement soles.
_
__ _
_
Lay soles
.. .
____ ,,
Nail heel seats____________ ___
_r
Rough round
Goodyear stitch
_ _ _
Trim heel seats.
T ..
........
Cement channels.
_
_
_ _ _
_
Cobble _ _ _ _
___________ _ _
Level _
___ __
_
Wheel stitches __ .. _ ____ _ _______ _
Rub down channels
Open channels
Double clinch
Rub white stitches
_ _
Cement heels
Heel, leather bases __
_
Heel, rubber
___
_
_ _
Shave heels _ .
Breast heels
Trim edges._
___T
.... .
_ r_
.
Joint (knife up) _
___ i _______
Organization....................................._____________________

Total________________________________________




2 .2 2
11
13.636
1 .1 1
22

2 .2 2
11

2 .2 2
11

18.182
13.636
20.370
37.879
45.238
51.515
46.970
24.242
163.636
31.818
43.636
1,370.019

12
.1 0

1.128
.924
.619
.885

791.97
395.99
395.99
659.99
198.00
565.72
146.67
989.94
43.52
68.28
70.71
24.60
49.50

137.50

282.86
158.40
282.86
60.92
132.00
198.00
104.21
99.00
395.99
304.85
156.36
264.00
79.20
37.71
275.76
296.22
208.42
132.66
186.67
282.86
330.00
440.01
294.70
158.40
132.63
116.47
127.74
247.50
36.67
' 188.57
137.50

ESTABLISHMENT NO, 22,

33

T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPA RTM E N T, AN D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 1 .—Men's

Goodyear welt, tan calf, blucher oxford, single sole, leather heel with rubber
top lift— Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FIN IN D
ISH G EPAR EN
TM T.

Total

_________ .

.

. _

_ _ . _

168.182
24.242
40.909

$3,075

61.818
93.939
48.758
36.364
60.606
25.758
31.818
16.667
30. 752
25. 758
15.152
7.105
43. 636

.712
.150
.691
1.065
.488
.545
.525
.262
.558
.180
.410
.131
.077
.032
.460

$1,097
.525
1.044
.339
.800
.680
.600
.899
.520
.610
1.052
.648
.800
.305
.305
.270
.633

742. 676

9.573

.773

.224
.2-14
6.205
.170
.227
.559
.625
.256
.356
.140
.419
.597
.315
.450

.634
.743
.585
.337
.360
.369
.450
.338
.641
.370
.360
,394
.433
.619

1,267. 575

Set edges...................................................................................
Scour breasts............................................................................
Scour heels...............................................................................
Black heels...............................................................................
Expedite heels........................................................................
Scour bottoms.........................................................................
Bleach bottoms.......................................................................
Paint or stain bottoms..........................................................
Gum bottoms..........................................................................
Stripe........................................................................................
Wax or roll bottoms..............................................................
Wheel breasts.........................................................................
Pull lasts..................................................................................
Clean and rub heels...............................................................
Stain breasts............................................................................
Check........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

10.787

.511

7,846.726

90.375

.691

2 .2 2
11

.2 2
1

35.68
247.50
146.67
282.86
115.79
63.87
123.06
165.00
99.00
232.94
188.57
359.99
195.11
232.94
395.99
844.48
137.50

TREEIN AND PA K G D
G
C IN EPAR EN
TM T.
Stamp.......................................................................................
Inspect for tacks.....................................................................
Tree, hand..............................................................................
Put in sock linings.................................................................
Brush vamps...........................................................................
Dress and dope.......................................................................
Repair russia...........................................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Brush heels and edges............................................................
Stencil.......................................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Pack cases, nail, and strap............................................ .
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization---------------------------------------------- ------- ----------

Total
Grand total _

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

......

_

2 .2 2
11

19.697
636.364
30.303
37.879
90.909
83.333
45. 455
33.333
22. 727
68.182
90.909
43.636
43. 636

282.86
304.63
9.43
198.00
158.40

6 .0
60

72.00
132.00
180.00
264.00

8 .0
80
6 .0
60

137. 50
137. 50

22.—Women’s Goodyear welt, lace, russia calf, polish boot, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel.

C T IN DEPAR ENT.
UT G
TM
Cut outsides, hand....................................
Cut trimmings, hand...............................
Cut linings, hand.......................................
S ta m p -..,...................................................
Mark sizes........ ........ .................................
Skive uppers...............................................
Skive toes....................................................
Perforate tips..............................................
Perforate vamps.........................................
Assemble work...........................................
Organization.............................................

600.000
180.000
36.000
15.000

$10,500

45.000
15.000

12
.1 0

60.000
15.000
75.282

.165
.130
.640
.230
1.255

Total..................................................

1,071.282

16.685

65.000
30.000
115.000

.720
.260
1.240
.250
.660
.370
.450
.900
.375

.665
.520
.647
1.250
.660
.493
.338
.900
.750

1 .0
00

.934

2 .0 0
00
1 .0 0
00

10
.2 0
1.190
.115
.140

$1.050
.400
1.983
.460
.420
1.493
.660
.780
.640
.920

10
.0 0

33.33
166.67
400.00
300.00
133.33
400.00
600.00

10 0
0 .0

400.00
79.70

S IT H G DEPAR ENT.
T C IN
TM
Black vamp, edges, etc...............................
Close and tape linings..................................
Close tops and sta y s...................................
Plug tips.........................................................
Stitch tips.......................................................
Mark eyelet rows.........................................
Eyelet and stay................. ...........................
Stitch side sta y s.........................................
Close (qu arters)......,.................................




1 .0 0
20

60.000
45.000
80.000
60.000
30.000

92.31

20 0
0 .0
52.17
500.00

10 0
0 .0
133.33
75.00

10 0
0 .0
20 0
0 .0

84

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT.

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D IS T H F C T -C o n tin u e d .
E s ta b lis h m e n t No;

W om ens Goodyearwelt, lace, russia calf, polish hoot, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel—
Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourlywages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded.

Floor work (girls)
Organization____

30.000
30.000
30.000
30.000
30.000
120.000
120.000
80.000
36.000
50.000
30.000
50.000
60.000
540.000
30.000
20.000
80.000
37.641

$0,250
.290
.440
.270
.360
11610
.740
2.250
.500
.700
.270
.580
.250
5.310
.270
.200
.540
1.046

$0,500
.580
.880
.540
.720
.805
.370
1.688
.833
.840
.540
.696
.250
.590
.540
.600
.405
1.667

Total..........

1,900.641

21.101

.667

Outsoles, leather1
...................................................................
Insoles, leather1
......................................................................
Counters, leather1........ ........................................................
Top piece, leather1................................................................
Box toes, leather1..................................................................
Heels, leather, 8 /8 1
.................................................................

84.111
Ii0t404
158.915
55.330
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.311
.587
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.636
.545
.461

Stock fitting:
Channel--...................—.................................................
Round................................. - ..........................................
Cut off and form in....................................................... .
Trim, size, and tie..........................................................
Set lips..... ............ .......................................................... .
Stamp, cut-off-mark splits........................................... .
Skive..................................................................................
Cement— ....................................................................... .
Knife................................................................................ .
Shank out........................................................................ .
Form toe lips, machine___________________________
Organization_____ _________________ _____________ _

45.090
25.000
40.000
40.000
40.000
~ 15.000
10.000
20.000
20.000
20.000
30.000
37.641

.670
.300
.430
.480
.560
.120
.200
.250
.150
.230
.250
.697

.893
.720
.645
.720
.840
.480
1.200
.750
.450
.690
.500
1.111

Total............................................................................. .

342.641

1337

1,288.368

12.485

.581

15.000
540.000
165.000
25.000
37.641

.400
10.800
3.880
.360
.697

1.600
1.200
1.411
.860
1. I l l

782.641

16.137

1-237

29.000
30.000
120.000
30.000
21000
45.000

.520
.750
2.700
.720
.330
.410

1.076
1.500
1.350
1.440
.825
.547

Close (sides)................ ........................... ............
Close (heels).—..................— ________ ________
Stay (quarters).............. ................................. —
Stay: (sides)..........................- .................................
Stay (heels)........ ........... .......................... - ............
Press quarters...........................................—..........
Stitch b a c k s t a y s ...............................................................
Stitch tops........................- .....................................
Eyelet.......................................- ..............................
Line tongues— ...............—...................................
Lace_........................................................................
Close toes................................................................
Cement vamp linings..........................................
Vamp............. ..........................................................

200.00
200.00
200.09
200.00
200.00
50.00
50.00
70 09
166.67
120.00
260.00

moo

100.00
11.11
200.00
300 00
75.00
15C 40
.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total, sole-leather department............... ................. .

-

133.33
240.00
150 00
150.00
150.00
400.00
600.00
300.00
300 00
300.00
200 00
159.40

.759

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Put up work (for puller-over)............................................ .
Pull over and side last, machine........... ............................ .
Operate bed machine........... - ..................___......................
Trim uppers and wet soles................. .............................. .
Organization........................ ............................... ................. .
Total— —

___________ _________ - ..........................

40000
11.11
36.36
240.00
159.40

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim uppers and sweep..............................
Pull side tacks..................... ......... ...............
Goodyear welt—............. —- __________ —,
Trim inseams, machine____ ____ ______ _
Pull bottom taeks, machine___________ Butt and tack ends.......................................

206.90
200.00
50 08
20000
25000
130 33

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre*
sent&tive establishments. See pp. 132-140.




ESTABLISHMENT NO. 22.

S5

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925,
B Y DISTRICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . g g .—Women’s

Goodyear welt, lace, russia calf, polish boot, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel—
Concluded.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

bottoming department—concluded.

Shave.........................................................................................
Breast.......................................................................................
Trim edges......................... .....................................................
Odd shoe work.........................................................................
Sweep....... ................................................................................
Organization........................................................................

24.000
30.000
45.000
15.000
60.000
45.000
15.000
135.000
36.000
54.000
45.000
18.000
27.000
15.000
30.000
36.000
45.000
30.000
345.000
37.641
75.282
37.641

$0,380
.250
.410
.190
.750
1.200
.300
3.300
.470
.760
.470
.250
.410
.250
.730
.460
.830
.390
3.630
.290
.260
.697

$0,950
.500
.547
.760
.750
1.600
1.200
1.467
.783
.844
.627
.833
.911
1.000
1.460
.767
1.107
.780
.631
.462
.207
L 111

Total...............................................................................

1,478.564

22.107

.898

18.000
36.000
120.000
51.o&o
45.000
45.000
45.000
75.000
135.000
30.000
36.000
30.000
37.641
70.000
37. 641
37. 641

.240
.490
2.790
.490
1.000
.750
.630
.960
1.130
.360
.580
.350
.260
.350
.230
.836

.800
.817
1.395
.576
1.333
1.000
.840
.768
.502
.720
.967
.700
.414
.300
.367
1.332

.......

848.923

11.446

.809

Pull tacks and inspect.........................................................
Lace.........................................................................................
Line-in............ ........................................................................
Dress........ ................................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Repair....................................................... .......... ...................
General work____ _____________________________ ______
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

36.000
75.000
45.000
300.000
150.000
240.000
112.923
37.641
37.641

.300
.320
.300
2.400
1.200
1.920
.948
.558
.697

.500
.256
.400
.480
.480
.480
.504
.889
1.111

Beat welts............ .......................................................- ..........
Put in shanks.......................................... ................................
Fill bottoms.............................................................................
Cement bottoms. ........................................... .......................
Lay soles............................ .....................................................
Rough round.................................................. ........................
Turn, channels. .................... .................................................
Goodyear stitch............................................... ......................
Cement and lay channels.....................................................
Level............................................................... ........................
Pull lasts......................................................... .........................
Staple uppers............................................................ ............
Nail heel seats.................................................. ......................
Trim heel seats...................................................................................
Heel...........................................................................................

250.00
200.00
133.33
400.00
100.00
133.33
400.00
44.44
166.67
111. 11
133.33
333.33
222.22
400.00
200.00
166.67
133.33
200.00
17.39
159.40
79.70
159.40

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour breasts.................................. ........................... - ..........
Scour heels, first time ..........................................................
Set edges................ ...................... ........................................
Scour heels, second time................... ...................................
Burnish heels................................................ ............ ...........
Buff...........................................................................................
Naumkeag...............................................................................
Hard finish............................................................................
Clean......................................................................................
Pull lasts, and put away.......................................................
Relast............ .................... ........................... .............. ..........
Scour........................................................................................
Odd shoe work_____________________________ _________
Pound heels..........................................................................
Inspect.............................. ............................... ......................
Organization...........................................................................

Total

333.33
166.67
50.00
117.65
133.33
133.33
133.33
80.00
44.44
200.00
166.67
200.00
159.40
85.71
159.40
159.40

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.*

Total________________

_________ .. .

1,034.205

8.643

.501

Grand t o t a l

_________ .

8,404.624

108.606

.775

. ... _

a No treeing is done on this shoe.




166.67
80.00
133.33
20.00
40.00
25.00
53.13
159.40
159.40

-----

.

36

TIME AND LABOR COSTS-^-NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t

No. £6—Women's Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp
and eyelet row, circular vamp with tip, 10/8 rubber heel with leather top lift.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Prepare jobs for cutters............................................. ...........
Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine.................................
Cut linings, machine............................................................
Cut toe linings and doublers, machine..............................
Dink heel pieces, hand..........................................................
Mark uppers............................................................................
Skive.........................................................................................
Perforate tips...........................................................................
Perforate vamps.....................................................................
Stamp linings..........................................................................
Assemble..................................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

149.610
319.444
65.741
43.519
18.519
6.481
74.074
20.833
29.630
9.259
9.259
24.935
74.805

$1,216
5.500
.750
.562
.180
.038
.643
.229
.375
.053
.058
.142
.747

$0,488
1.033
.685
.761
.583
.352
.521
.660
.759
.343
.376
.342
.599

Total___________________________________________

846.109

10.483

.743

41.667
76.852
18.056
62.500
22.222
58.796
79.074
23.148
59.722
55.556
60.185
64.815
27.778
113.426
26.852
13.889
27.778
57.870
18.519
26.852
134.259
43.056
54.000
11.574
49.870
24.935
274.285

.208
.542
.146
.521
.167
.583
.396
.229
.500
.174
.542
.500
.271
1.417
.168
.125
.125
.375
.167
.208
1.917
.375
.208
.125
.208
.142
2.455

.300
.423
.485
.500
.451
.595
.300
.594
.502
.188
.540
.463
.585
.750
.375
.540
.270
.389
.541
.465
.857
.523
.231
.648
.250
.342
.537

12.794

.503

40.10
18.78
91.27
137.87
323.99
925.78
81.00
288.00
202.50
648.02
648.02
240.62
sa 21

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Tape linings............................................................................
Stitch-on heel pieces..............................................................
Seam heel pieces.....................................................................
Stitch toe linings.....................................................................
Cement tops............................................................................
Fold tops.................................................................................
Seam heels...............................................................................
Stay heels............. ......................................... ..........................
Line tongues.............................................................................
Cement and fold tips............................................................
Stitch tips____ _______________________________________
Stitch eyelet rows...................................................................
Cement eyelet stays...............................................................
Stitch to p s..............................................................................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Cement vamps....................... ...............................................
Fold vamps..............................................................................
Double vamps.........................................................................
Reinforce vamps.....................................................................
Vamp.................................... ...................................................
Close toes....................................................... ..........................
Cripple work......................... .................................................
Sweep......................................................1................................
Organization............................................................................
. _

1,527.536

Outsoles:
Cut......................................................................................
Grade.................................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................

55.556
27.788
27.778

.579
.183
.289

.625
.395
.624

111. 112

1.051

.568

66.520
ia 519

.462
.135

.417
.437

85.039

.697

.421

15a 915
113.788
423.179

1.314
1.033
3.253

144.00
7a 07
332.30
95.99
270.00
102.05
75.88
259.20
100.46
108.00
99.70
92.57
215.99
52.90
223.45
431.99
216.00
103.68
323.99
223.45
44.69
139.36
111. 11
518.41
120.31
240.63
21.88

.496
.545
.461

T ota l
SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

T ota l

„

......

__

____________

Insoles:

Cut..................................................................................—
Stamp and case............................................................

.

Total...............................................................................

C o u n t e r s , le a t h e r t .
_____ ___ __
Box to e s , le a t h e r 1
Reel4, le a th e r, w o m e n ’s, 8/81
3
...

______ ______
_
_

_

ioaoo
215.99
215.99

90.20
323.99

i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




ESTABLISHMENT NO. 26,

37

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp
and eyelet row, circular vamp with tip, 10/8 rubber heel with leather top lift—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 6 .—

1
Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Stock fitting:
Split............................ .....................................................
Thin edges..................................................................... v
Stamp soles.......................................................................
Shank out................................................ ........................
Scour insoles.....................................................................
Round insoles...................................................................
Snip toes............................................................................
Channel insoles................................................................
Stitch channels................................................................
Cut and form gem cloths...............................................
Trim gems................................................................I___
Staple butts......................................................................
Wipe toes...........................................................................
Case up insoles.................................................................
Sweep................................................................................
Organization.....................................................................
Total___

15.741
37.037
6.481
21.296
9.259
27.778
4.630
32.407
27.778
36.667
36.667
11. Ill
12.963
10.185
24.935
24.935

$0,109
.309
.020
.167
.056
.231
.013
.366
.159
.229
.229
.041
.067
.053
.142
.346

$0,415.
.501
.185
.471
.363
.499
.168
.678
.343
.375
.375
.221
.310
.312
.342
.833

339.870

2.537

.448

Total, sole-leather department.................................

1,231.903

9.785

.477

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Pick lasts..................................................................................
Tack insoles.............................................................................
Assemble for pull-over machine..........................................
Pull over, machine..........................................^.....................
Side last, machine...................................................................
Operate bed machine.............................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

25.000
29.630
55.556
* 111. Ill
162.037
111. Ill
44.444
37.403

.208
.250
.750
1.350
1.688
2.167
.281
.606

.499
.506
.810
.729
.625
1.170
.379
.972

Total..................... ........................................................

576.292

7.300

.760

40.741
63.889
36. Ill
58.333
179.111
16.667
25.000
19.444
8.333
11.I ll
25.000
13.889
17. 593
13.889
42. 593
12.963
30.556
20.370
17.593
20.833
14.815
107.407
18.519
25.000
166.667
16. 667
19.444
20.370
17.593
37.500
171.296
49.870
24.935
24.935
124.675

.250
.250
.229
.364
2.000
.122
.191
.203
.072
.046
.208
.072
.134
.072
.266
.050
.292
.127
.073
.109
.077
1.750
.116
.130
1.042
.087
.095
.212
.244
.312
1.784
.511
.139
.142
1.861

.368
.235
.380
.374
.670
.439
.458
.626
.518
.248
.499
.311
.457
.311
.375
.231
.573
.374
.249
.314
.312
.978
.376
.312
.375
.313
.293
.624
.832
.499
.625
.615
.334
.342
.896

1,513.712

13.632

. 540

381.17
162.00
925.78
281.74
648.02
215.99
1,295.88
185.14
215.99
163.64
163.64
540.00
462.86
589.10
240.62
240.62

240.00
202.50
108.00
54.00
37.03
54.00
135.00
160.41

B O T T O M IN G D E P A R T M E N T .

Trim toes.................................................................................
Pull tacks.................................................................................
Staple............................................... ........................................
Pull wires.................................................................................
Goodyear welt........................................................................
Knock out bottom tacks.......................................................
Butt welts................................................................................
Trim inseams..........................................................................
Beat welts................................................................................
Shank.............. .......................................................................
Fill bottoms.............................................................................
Cement bottoms.....................................................................
Mold soles................................................... ............................
Cement soles......... .................................................................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Staple soles...............................................................................
Rough round.............................................. ...........................
Nail heel seats.........................................................................
Trim heel seats........................................................................
Round heel seats.....................................................................
Turn channels.........................................................................
Goodyear stitch.......................................................................
Cement channels....................................................................
Lay channels...........................................................................
Level..................................... ...................................................
Reduce shanks.........................................................................
Hammer shanks......................................................................
Shave heels............................................ ..................................
Breastheels..............................................................................
Trim edges...............................................................................
Cobble......................................................................................
Operate elevators....................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total.




147.27
93.91
166.15
102.86
33.50
359.99
240.00
308.58
720.03
540.01
240.00
432.00
341.04
432.00
140.87
462.86
196.36
294.55
341.04
288.00
404.99
55. 86
323. 99
240.00
36.00
359.99
308.58
294.55
341.04
1(H 00
).
35.03
120.31
240.63
240.63
4S.13

38

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E Q F 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925.
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T M C T -C a n t in n e d .
No. ^ . —Women's Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp
and eyelet row, circular vamp with tip, 10/8 rubber
with leather top lift—Concluded.

E s ta b lis h m e n t

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs oi 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Set edges...................................................................................
Scour heels, first tim e ............................................. ............
Black heels........................................................- .....................
Burnish heels.......................... ..................................... ..........
Bu ff-........................ ................................................................
Seour breasts, first time........ —..................................... —
Scour heels, second time......................... .........................—
Scour breasts, second time— ............... .................. ...........
Scour rubber heels....................................- ..................... —
Naumkeag shanks.................................. —............................
Black shanks............................................. —..........................
Wheel shanks..................................................- .......... - ..........
Dust and bleach bottoms....... .....................- .......... .......... Stain bottoms......................... .................................. ............
Finish bottoms__ ________ __________
_ _____ ______
_
Pull lasts...................................................... ............... ............
General work.......................... - ................—..........................
Organization................................. ...........................................
T ota l

_________________________________________________

203.704
44.000
27.778
55.556
41.667
13.889
55.000
19.352
22.222
41.667
41.667
55.553
27.778
55. 556
77.778
27.778
24.935
24.935

$2,476
.458
.212
.424
.500
.156
.458
.107
.212
.376
.318
.386
.193
.424
.810
.159
.108
.519

$0,729
.625
.458
.458
.720
.674
.500
.332
.572
.541
.458
.417
.417
.458
.625
.343
.260
1.249

860.818

8.296

.578

17. 778
25.926
138.889
61. Ill
60.185
45.833
27.778
41.667
18. 519
83.333
13.889
49.870
49.870

.059
.250
2.500
.318
.251
.229
.159
.296
.106
.434
.082
.213
.671

.199
.579
1.080
.312
.250
.300
.343
.418
.343
.312
.354
.256
.807

648.537

5.695

.527

7,204.907

67.985

.566

29.45
136.38
216,00
108.00
144.00
432.00
109.09
310.05
m oo
144.00
144.00
108. C
O
216.00
108.00
77.14
216.00
240. as
240.63

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Feel tacks............................... .......................... .....................
Put in sock lining............. - ................... ................................
Tree,, hand...... ................... —................... — .........................
Repair............. ................... ................................ - ...................
Dress................................... - ..............—..............................
Lace______ _____ _______ —---------- ------------------- ------_ ........ ..........
Stamp bottoms. .................—................
Inspect......... .................................... ........... ........... —------Stamp cartons.......................................................................
Pack............... .. ............... ............................... .................
Nail boxes. ............................................................................
Organization................................................................- ......... T ota l

____ _

_______________

Grand total........... ................... .

^

____

337.50
231.43
43.20
98.18
99.69
130.91
216.00
144.00
323.99
72.00
432.00
120.31
120.31

..... 1

No. 2 7 .—Women’s McKay, dull calf, circular vamp, oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated
vamp and eyelet row with tip, white fairstitched sole, 10/8 leather heel with rubber top lift.

E s ta b lis h m e n t

CUTTING DEPARTMENT*

Prepare jobs for cutters.................................—.........- ..........
Cut vamps and whole shoe* machine........... .....................
Cut linings, machine_______ _______ — ............. ...........
Cut sock lining and doublers, machine ..........................
Dink heel pieces, hand........................ ............ .....................
Skive.........................................................................................
Mark uppers....................... ............................ ....................
Stamp linings................................................... ..........- ..........
Perforate tips................... ...................... ........ ..................
Perforate vamps___________ _________ ____________ ____
Assemble........................... ....................... *..............................
Sweep................ ..................... ........................
...................
Organization.. .................................... ................................
T o ta l

__________

240.000
207.407
71.296
21.296
18.519
55.558
7.407
9.259
20.833
38.889
9.259
40.000
120.000

$1.216
a 398
.750
.222
.180
.482
.044
.051
.229
.375
.058
.228
.747

$0,304
.983
.631
.625.
.583*
.521
.356
.330
.660
.579
.376
.342
.374

859.721

7.980

.557

41.667
64.815
18.056
62.500
22.222

.208
.458
.146
.521
.167

.300
.424
.485
.500
.451

25.00
28.93
84.16
281.74
323.99
108.00
810.04
648.02
288.00
154.29
618.02
150.00
50.00

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Tape linings.......................................... ..................................
Stitch on heel pieces....... ......................i ______________
Seam heel pieces________ ______________ ____________
Stitch toe linings............... ................. .............. ........ ....... .
Cement tops____ ______________________________




144.60
9257
332.30
96.00
270.00

ESTABLISHMENT NO. 29.

39

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
27.— Women's M cKay, dull call, circular vamp, oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated
vamp and eyelet row with tip, white fairstitched sole, 10/8 leather heel with rubber top lift— Contd.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of IC pairs.
O
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.

Cripple work.................................................... ......................
Sweep............................................. ..........................................
Organization................................................................... .........
_____________

Total

58.790
26.852
23.148
59.722
41.667
60.185
64.815
27.778
113.426
26.852
13.889
27.778
57.870
18.519
26.852
134.259
43.056
61. I ll
11.574
80.000
40.000
400.000

$0,583
.396
.229
.500
.174
.542
« .500
.271
1.417
.168
.125
. '*'5
.375
.167
.208
1.917
.375
.208
.125
.333
.228
3.771

$0,595
.885
.594
.502
.251
.540
.463
.585
.750
.375
.540
.270
.389
.541
.465
.857
.523
.204
.648
.250
.342
.566

1,627.409

14.237

.525

55.556
27.778
27.778

.579
.183
.289

.625
.395
.624

111. 112

Fold tops....................................................- ............................
Seam heels...... ............................................ - ..........................
Stay heels................................................................................
Line tongues...........................................................................
Cement and fold tips.............................................................
Stitch tips.......... .....................................................................
Stitch eyelet rows............. .....................................................
Cement eyelet stays...............................................................
Stitch top............................... .................................................
Eyelet.......... ............................................................................
Lace............................................ ..............................................
Cement vamps........................................................................
Fold vamps............................................ .................................
Double vamps.............................................................. . ........
Reenforce vamps....................................................................
Vamp.........................................................................................
Close toes..................................................................................

1.051

.568

68.520
18. 519

.462
1.350

.417
.437

102.05
223.45
259.20
100.47
144.00
99.69
92.57
216.00
52.90
223.45
432.00
216.00
103.68
323.99
223.45
44.69
139.35
98:18
518.40
75.00
150.00
15.00

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles:
C u t...................................... ..............................................
Grade............................................................................ .....
Sort............. ................................................................. .....
Total___

_ _

_

Insoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Stamp and case..................................................... .........
Total

_

85. 039

.597

158. 915
113. 788
423.179

1.314
1.033
3.253

.496
.545
.461

Stock fitting:
Roll and skive, outsoles...................... - .........................
Round outsoles. ..............................................................
Channel.......................—........................ - .....................
Turn channel............................................................. .....
Mold..................................................................................
Feather edge.....................................................................
Wet up............................................................................ Scour insoles............................ .....................................
Round insoles...................................................... - ______
Case and black soles.......................................................
Thin edges............. —.......................................... ............
Sweep.................................................... ................... .........
Organization_______________________ — .....................

4.630
27.778
37.037
37.037
27.778
37.037
4.630
9.259
18.519
27.778
29.630
40.000
40.000

.031
.236
.315
.231
.212
.309
.031
.056
.154
.077
.216
.228
.556

.402
.510
.510
.374
.458
.501
.402
.363
.499
.166
.437
.342
.834

341.113

2.652

.466

1,233.146

9.900

90.20
323.99

.421

___
Counters, leather1 _
_
Box toes, leather1_____________________________________
Heels, leather, 8/81

108.00
216.00
216.00

.482

Total __.lir_

.

T o t a l , s o le -le a th e r d e p a r t m e n t

_ .
_

__

- r~r"'

1,295.88
215.99
162.00
162.00
215.99
162.00
1,295.88
648.02
323.99
215.99
202.50
150.00
150,00

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




t i m e a n d l a b o r c o s ts — n e w

40

En g l a n d d is t r i c t .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN *923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D •
OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women’s McKay, dull calf, circular vamp, oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated
vamp and eyelet row with tip, white fairstitched sole, 10/8 leather heel with rubber top lift—Contd.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 7 .—

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

18.519
32.870
75.926
111. Ill
108.333
161. Ill
39.815
20.370
64.815
58.897
44.444
100.000

$0,064
.115
.667
1.100
.865
1.175
.111
.057
.619
.461
.281
1.458

$0,207
.210
.527
.594
.479
.438
.167
.168
.573
.470
.379
.875

836.211

6.973

.500

13.889
32.870
87.963
22.222
28.704
45.089
36. I ll
55.556
26.852
29.630
43.519
164.815
40.000
40.000
40.000

.101
.115
.641
.069
.090
.361
.301
.530
.200
.360
.325
1.488
.228
.229
.722

.436
.210
.437
.186
.188
.480
.500
.572
.447
.729
.448
.542
.342
.344
1.083

707.220

5.760

.489

Scour heels, first time............................................................
Scour breasts.................................................................... .......
Scour heels, second time......................... ............ .................
Stain heels_____________ _________ ______________ _____
Finish heels.............. ....................................... ............. .......
Naumkeag................................................................................
Set edges...................................................................................
Buff bottoms...........................................................................
Brush bottoms and heels......................................................
Brush edges.............................................................................
Black bottoms.........................................................................
Finish bottoms.......................................................................
Organization............................................................................

40.741
27.778
40.741
27.778
50.926
25.000
78.704
33.333
15.741
52.778
16.667
62.037
40.000

.495
.207
.368
.251
.477
.260
.683
.347
.033
.110
.174
.582
.625

.729
.447
.542
.542
.562
.624
.521
.625
.126
.125
.626
.563
.938

Total___________________________________________

512.224

4.612

.540

189.815
61. Ill
60.185
18.519
25.000
42.593
24.074
26.852
19.444
57.407
13.889
80.000
40.000
40.000

1.450
.318
.251
.154
.078
.177
.100
.084
.074
.239
.082
.213
.228
1.007

.458
.312
.250
.499
- .187
.249
.249
.188
,228
.250
.354
.160
.342
1.511

Pick lasts..................................................................................
Tack insoles.............................................................................
Assemble for pull-over machine............................................
Pull over, machine................................................................
Side last, machine.................................................................
Operate bedmachine............................................................
Pull tacks.................................... .. .........................................
Insert bottom fillers (felt piece)...........................................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Cut strings and pull lasts. ...................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Organization............. - ............................................................
Total

_ _ ____________________________________

323.99
182.54
79.02
54.00
55.38
37.24
150.70
294.55
92.57
101.87
’ 135.00
60.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Nail heel seats. .......................................................................
Trim heel seats........................................................................
McKay sew..............................................................................
Cement channels..................... .............................................
Sort out and wet channels................................................—
Level....................................................................- ...................
Case bases and spot rubber heels........................................
Heel................................................ ..........................................
Breast.......................................................................................
Shave heels...............................................................................
Relast........................................................................................
Trim edges.......... .......... .....................................................
Sweep________________________________________________
Operate elevator........................................................ ...........
Organization.......................... .............................................. .
T n ta 1

-

432.00
182.54
68.21
270.00
209.03
133.07
166.15
108.00
223.45
202.50
137.87
36.40
150.00
150.00
150.00

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

147.27
216.00
147.27
216.00
117.82
240.00
76.24
180.00
381.17
113.68
359.99
96.72
150.00

TREEING.AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Tree, hand...............................................................................
Repair.......................................................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Pull lasts................... .*............................................................
Burn threads...........................................................................
Put in sock linings.......................................... ........... ..........
Sock linings, three-quarters___________________________
Lace..........................................................................................
Stamp cartons.........................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Nail boxes................. ........................................................ .
Ship..........................................................................................
Sweep............................................................... ..................
Organization.................................................... .......... ............
T o ta l

Grand t o t a l

698.889
_ _____




_______ _

__________ _ __

4.455

6,474.819

53.917

31.61
98.18
99.69
323.99
240.00
140.87
249.23
223.45
308.58
104.52
432.00
. 75.00
150.00
15ft 00

.....................
.382 1
I
---------------.500

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 29.

41

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923.
B Y D ISTR IC T, D E PA RTM E N T, A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women’s McKay, mahogany oxford, imitation tip, Goodyear stitch, leather
sole, leather counter, cork insole, leather heel with rubber top lift.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 9 .—

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Select upper stock..........................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine
_ __
Sort,
Paint, sizes
Count, parts of uppers
Cut vamp linings,'machine_________ _____________
Cut doth doublers, machine______________________
Cut tongues, machine_____ ______________________
Cut leather linings, machine ...... .
Sweep and odd work
_
. _
General work
Stamp sizes. _
Skiveuppers....................................................... -.........
Skive tongues __
___
_____ . _
Perforate quarters__
_
_
__
Perforate vamps___________________________ _____
Perforate tips, "etc
Organization ’
_ _ _ _ _
Total______

_____________

(*)

182.292
19.271
21.333
7.812
4.687
2.604
60.937
64.687
21.333
42.667
10.417
30.729
11.198
39.062
62.604
6 .333
8
42.667

(<)
$2,375
.059
.033
.045
.025
.233
.500
.059
.137
.083
.250
.125
.333
.417
.469
.504

$0,782
.626
.166
.253
.576
.576
.229
.549
.166
.193
.478
.488
.670
.511
.476
.482
.709

662.633

5.848

.530

6.771
67.292
20.833
11.458
24.479
14.683
79.167
153.646
31.260
31.260
25.000
56.250
33.854
21.875
45.312
20.833
72.396
160.417
41.667
33.854
31.250
42.667
42.667
21. 333

.031
.500
.167
.083
.167
.083
.583

.250
.208
.167
.500
.208
.125
.333
.167
.583
1.667
.375
.167
.167
.244
.196
.444

.275
.524
.481
.435
.409
.341
.442
.391
.480
.399
.401
.533
.369
.343
.441
.481
.483
.623
.540
.296
.321
.343
.276
1.249

1,080.104

8.415

.467

84.111
110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.545
.461

19.271
28.263
10.417
10.417
39.583
28.263
42.667
21.333

.157
.245
.099
.054
.283
.319
.252
.296

.489
.520
.570
.311
.429
.677
.354
.833.

200.214

1.705

.511

1,090.611

9.266

.510

.2 1
0

32.91
311.35
281.25
768.05
1,280.14
2,30415
98.46
109.72
281.25
140.62
575.98
195.26
535.81
153.60
114.06

12 6
0 .8

140.62

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Cheek in work _
Fancy stitch, quarters
Close quarters
_ _ __ ___ _ _ _ _
Rub stitches _ _
.
_____ .
_ __
Stay quarters
___.
„ __
__ _ _
Cement, quarters .
Press, machine
Stitch tops
"
_ ......
Eyelet
.......
Close linings________________ ___________________
Stay linings'
_
J
Make linings____________ ___________ ___________
Reenforce stays _
_
Double________________________________________
Stitch tips______________________________________
Mark for imitation stitch .
Fancv stitch
_ _ _
______ .. .. .... ......
Vamp _
_ _ _ _ _
.
Line toes
_
_ ..........
Bar
Lace___________________________________________
Odd shoe work
_ _ _ __
General work _ _ .
__ _ _
Organization____________________________________
Total_____________________________________

10
.0 0

886.13
104.73
288.00
523.65
245.11
411.44
75.79
39.05
192.00
192.00
240.00
106.67
177.23
274.29
132.42
288.00
82.88
37.40
144.00
177.23
192.00
140.62
140.62
281.25

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles, leather1
........ ............ .......... ..........................
Insoles, leather 1
_________________________________
Counters, leather l _ _
Box toes, leather 1 _ _
TTeels, leather, 8/8 l _r_
_ ___ _
_
Stock fitting:
Case doublers. _
_ ___ ________
Round
Shank outsoles
_ _ _ ......
Stamp soles _
_
_T _ _ ..__ ____ .
Paste tips
_ _ _ .............., .
Channel _ _ _
_ _
__ __
... ,
General work
_ _ _ ______ __ _
Organization
:
Total

_________

_1______

Total, sole-leather department________________

311.35
212.29
575.98
575.98
151.58
212.29
. 140.62
. 281.25

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.
* Included with item for organization.




m

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D D ISTR IC T,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
TSHSW E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.

No. ^ —Women's McKay, mahogany oxford, imitation tip, Goodyear stitch, leather
sole, leather counter, cork* insole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Concluded.

E s ta b lis h m e n t

Department and operation.

LASTIN D
G EPARTM
ENT.
Match marks
Tank insoles _
Pastelinings _ _ __
Pastacounters _ _
Pasta linings and repair lasts
Assemble for pnli-ovar machinA_
_ ....
. ...
Pnll over, machine __
.......
<
Side!eat; machine
_ ....
Operate bed machines
Inspect.
___
Cobble . _____ _
Pnll insole tacks.
Pound _ ___ .. _
Pnt. in shanks
.
.. _
TAy solas _
Pnll lasts
Odd shoe work . _
...........
Operate elevators ..
_
_ _
_
_ .
_
Organization
Total............................................................

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

21.333
26.042
46.875
21. 33a
21.333
47.917
78.125
80.729
148.437
21.333
64.000
25.521
57,29228.125
54.687
23.958
21.333
21.333
42.667
852.373

$0,163
.208
.167
.148
.089
.750
1.083
1.083
2,500
.119
.474
.167
.583
.167
.500
.208
. 170
.089
.615
9.283

$0,458
.479
.214
.416
.250
.939
.832
.805
1.612
.335
.444
.393
.611
.356
. 549
! 521
.478
.250

76. 562.
19.271
41.667
31.250
31.250
140.625
18.229
23.177
54.687
42.708
45.312
25. 521
95.312
26.562
42.667
42.667
21.333
778.8dh

.750
. 146
.250
.333
.417
1.667
.167
.250
.458
.625
.500
.208
1.250
.341
.230
.444
8.257

. 588
.455
.360
.639
.801
.711
.550
.647
.503
.878
.662
.489
.787
.499
.480
.323
1.249
.636

78.37
311.35
144.00
192.00
192.00
42.67
329.15
258.88
109.72
140.49
132.42
235.10
62.95
225.89
140.62
140.62
281.25

.583
1.250
.375
.042
.083
.417
.417
.167
.437
.333
.083
.167
.125
.417
.341
5.237

.513
.852
.626
.484
.319
.624
.632
.393
.541
.426
.435
.428
.300
.198
.959
.506

87.94
68.17
166.96
1,152.07
384.00
149.61
’ 151.58
235.10
123.87
128.00
523.65
256.01
240.00
47.60
281.25

.542
2.083
.167
.054
.095
.226
.039

.398
.436
.244
.249
.497
.334
.250
.333
.468
.755
.423

73.38
20.91
145:82
460.79
523.65
147.69
640.00
157.81
140.62
140.62

.866

281.25
230.40
128.00
281.25
281.25
125.22
76.80'
74.32
40.42
281.25
93.75
235.10
194.73
213.33
109.72
250.44
281.25
281.25
140.62

.653

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

McKay stitch_____________________________________
Nail toes
Cement shoas
__
Level
Rough trim.
Fair stitch
...
Nail heel seats
...
_ ___ _
Reatnnt
_
_
Peel, bases
Reel, rubber
_
_ . . .
Shave, heels
Breast
. . .
Trim edges _
_
_
Inspect _ _
_ ____
_
Cobble .
...
General work .
Organization.
Total
_
, .

.221

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour heels _
Set edges
•
Buff _________________________
_ _ _
Pack shoes _ _
__
.
Black heels
._
..........
Finish heels
.
......
Nanmkeag. _
_ _ .......
..
Dyesnles
_ ....
_
. r_T. . . . . . . ir._
.
Stain bottoms
. . . .
Finish bottoms
Stamp soles .
......
Wheel soles
.... _
...
_ ... _
Polish bottoms. .....
. ..
_
..........
Polish tops _
_ _ _ _ _____ ____ .
.
Organization_____________
____
_ _
___
Total............................................................

68.229
88.021

35.937
5.208
15.625
40.104
39.583
25.521
48.437
46.875
11.458
23.-437
25.000
126.042
21.333
620.810

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Put in sock lining
Tron tree, hand _ _ _ . . .
Lace.
_
. . . . . . .
_
._
.......
Brash..
. . .
Inspect_____________________ ______________________
Repair _
_ _
n
r _ ..
Size
_
_ ___ _ _ _ _ _
Pack
_ _____ _______________
.
General work (ship).
.. _ .
. ...
........
Organization_______________________________ _______
Total. ......................................................................
Grand total.
.... . _
__ _ ....




81.771
286.979
41.146
13.021
11.458
4a 625
9.375
38.021
42.667
42.667
607.730
5,693.061

.211

.333
.537
4.287 .
56.593 ]
|

*533-

43

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 32,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 2 .—Women’s

McKay, oxford, black vici, one-strap, single sole, leather heel.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Sort leather.
_ _ _______________ ______________
Pattern
_____________________________
Cnt. outsides, hand
_ _ ________________________
Cut trimmings, hand _____________________________
Cnt toe linings' hand
Dink streps, hand
_
__ _ __________________
Cut sock linings, hand_____________________________
Cut vamp linings, machine_________________________
Stamp _ _________________________________________
Made______________________ _______ __________ ____
Skive____________________ ________________________
Perforate quarters__________________________________
Assemble.*.................... ........... ........................................
Organization______________________________________

19.556
19.556
381.944
215.278
55.389
36.111
57.694
16.667
37.500
20.833
18.333
167.670
16.667
17.334

$0,306
.306
6.250
1.750
.400
.250
.417
.120
.375
.167
.153
1.397
.174
.451

$0.939
.939
.982
.488.433
.415
.434
.432
.600
.481
.501
.500
.626
1.561

Total_________________________________ - _____

•1,080.532

12.516

.695

92.592
248.333
31.667
41.667
62.500
27.778
20.550
45.833
219.667
115.278
41.667
208.333
184.611
361. I ll
27.778
63.889
40.000
20.833
30.556
67.794

.694
2.069
.264
.264
.313
.167
.103
.356
1.831
1.167
.208
2.500
2.000
4.969
.250
.333
.333
.167
.139
1.000

.450
.500
.500
.380
.300
.361
.301
.466
.500
.607
.300
.720
.650
.826
.540
.313
.500
.481
.273
.885

1,952.437

19.127

.588

84. I ll
110.404
158.915
55.330
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
.587
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.636
.545
.461

19.201
15.562

.167
.257*

.522
.991

8.333
8.333
8.333
33.333
10.000
27.778
30.556
22.222
19.444
25.000
27.778
19.556

.056
.075
.050
.339
.083
.250
.217
.150
.160
.211
.208
.306

.403
.540
.360
.610
.498
_ 540
.426
.405
.494
.506
.449
.939

275.429

2.529

.551

1,221.156

10.677

.525

306.81
306.81
15.71
27.87
108.32
166.15104.00
360.00
160.00
288.00
327.28
35.78
359.99
346.14

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Floor help_________________________________________
Make linings „
, „ _ _ _
Closft
" .... .. _ _ _ _ _
_ __ _ _
Stay.... ........... .................... ...................... ......................
Tape qnarteiA
_
Cement linihgR ___________________________________
Cement, general _ _ _ _ _
_
_ _ _ _ _ _
Press
_
. . _ ......
_
_
Fanny stitnh
.........
Stitch and perforate vamps _ .
Reenforce
___
_ _
Binding___________________________________________
Vamp _
_.T._ - ______________
1
Stitch pumps______________________________________
Sew buttons._____ ________________________________
Trim and button____ _____ ________________________
Operate buttonhole machine
Trim buttonholes
Pack _ _ _ _ _ _
._
_ . ... _ _
Organization
______ ____
_ _
„ _
Total. ______

_______

_________

.

64.80
24.16
189.47
144.00
96.00
216.00
291.97
130.91
27.31
52.05
144.00
28.80
32.50
16.62
216.00
93.91
150.00
288.00
196.36
88.50

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles, leather 1
Insoles, leather 1 _ _ _
Counters, leather 1
Top pieces, leather l
Bor toes, leather 1 __
Heels, leather, women’s, 8/81 _

_

_

__

__
.....
_ _„_

__

.

Stock fitting:
Floor help
_ ___
Sort soles
.
____ _
_ _
Wet ._ _
_ _
_ _____ ___ __. _ . '
Skive ___ _._
Roll _
______
Stamp and channel _
Lift groove _
__
^
,_
Round _ _ _ _ _
. ._ ,
_,
____
Flesh, all around_______ _____________ _.
_
Shank out . __
_
_
M old________________________
Turn channels.
_ _
.
.
Thin shank
_
.
___
Organization
.
Total_____________________________
Total, sole-leather department

r ._,

. _ ______

„

312.48
385.55
720.03
720.03
720.03
180.00
600.00
215.99
196.36
270.00
308.58
240.00
215.99
306.81

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from sevoral
representative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




44

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D D IST R IC T .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . SB —

Women’s McKay, oxford, black vici,one-strap, single sole, leather heel—Contd

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Floor help..........................................................................
Pick lasts.................................................. .......................
Assemble for pull-over machine.......................................
Pull over, machine....... ....................................................
Side last, machine.......... : .................................................
Operate bed machine.......................... ............................
Pound................................................................................
Tack shanks........... .........................................................
•Lay soles___ __________— ..........................................
Pull lasts................... .......................................................
Organization.....................................................................

Hourly
wages.

35.842
36.000
81.278
87.500
131.944
278.783
44.444
58.333
113.889
38.889
19.556

$0,389
.300
.917
1.389
2.000
3.194
.500
.333
1.072
.411
.306

$0,651
.500
.677
.952
.909
.687
.675
.343
.565
.634
.939

926.458

10.811

.700

Relast.................................................................................
Shave heels......................................................................
Breast, “ Louis” ................................................................
Scallop-..............................................................................
Trim edges.................................................... .................
Organization.________ ______ _____ _________________

87.083
31.944
100.000
20.833
45.856
45.856
13.889
36. I ll
93.056
45.833
19.444
137.500
9.778

.900
.278
1.083
.250
.347
1.042
.250
.472
1.750
.694
.167
2.139
.153

.620
.522
.650
.720
.454
1.363
1.080,
.7 8 a
1.128
.909
.515
.933
.939

Total___________________________________________

687.183

9.525

.882

47.222
27.778
111. I ll
58.333
41.667
26.389
45.833
41.667
55.556
69.444
48.611
48.611
76.389
27.778
25.000
152.778
9.778

.417
1.575
1.000
.250
.167
.389
.139
1.139
.667
.556
.306
.833
.211
.104
.778
.153

.530
.719
.851
1.029
.360
.380
.509
.200
1.230
.576
.686
.378
.654
.456
.250
.306
.939

913.945

a 017

.592

Sock line........ ................... ...............................................
Tree, hand................. ........................... ...........................
Repair tips.......... ............ .................................. ..............
Button.......... .......................... ..........................................
Pack.........................................................i ........................
Nail and stencil.._______ _______________ ______ _____
Ship....................................................................................
Organization................. ....................................................

53.333
296.333
249.958
40.000
lia250
15.063
20.450
19.556

.417
3.556
1.953
.250
.788
.174
.163

.469.720
.469
.375
.400
.693
.469
.939

Total_____________________________ ___ _______

812.943

7.604

Numb,
of paire
worked on
per hour.

Total

__
_

BOTTOM
ING DEPARTMENT.
M cK ay sew_„...................................................................
Cement channels...............................................................
Beat out............................................................ ...............
Nail heel seats...................................................................
Feed nailing machine.......................................................
Heel....................................................................................

167.40
166.67
73.82
68.57
45.47
21.52
135.00
102.86
52.68
154.29
306.81

68.90
187.83
60.00
288.00
130.84
130.84
432.00
166.15
64.48
130.91
308.58
43.64
613.62

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour breasts, first tim e .................................................
Scour breasts, second tim e........................... ...................
Set edges............................................................................
Scour heels..... ...................................................................
Cobble................. ...... ......... .............................................
Dye....................................................................................
Slick................................ ..................................................
Black heels.................. ......................................................
Finish heels....... ................................................ ..............
Buff....................................................................................
Naumkeag..... '..................................................................
Black bottoms......... ........... ............... ............................
Roll bottoms_______ ______________________ ____ ___
Pull lasts.................................. .......................................
Inspect...............................................................................
Clean uppers.................................................................... .
Organization......................................................................
Total_______________

______________________

.333

127.06
216.00
54.00
102.86
144.00
227.37
130.91
144.00
108.00
86.40
123.43
123.43
7a 55
216.00
24ft 00
39.27
613.62

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Grand total




T

__

7,594.654

.306

79.277-

.561
.626 i _
i .

112.50
20.25
24.00
150.00
50.74
398.33
293.40
303.81.

45

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 33,

T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923.
B Y DISTRICT, D E PARTM EN T, AN D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . SS

—Men’s, Goodyear welt, russia calf vamp and top, single sole, leather heel.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Match marks...........................................................................
Mark vamps for tips..............................................................
Skive.........................................................................................
Punch tips...............................................................................
Cut cloth linings, hand.........................................................
Mark linings...........................................................................
Cut eyelet facings, hand.......................................................
Assemble..................................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization........................................................ - .................

83.333
1,000.000
125.000
62.500
26.042
187.500
41.667
41.667
62.500
83.333
62.500
18.647
28.870

$1,180
14.167
1.771
.391
.250
1.984
.250
.470
.391
.408
.375
.108
.588

$0,850
.850
.850
.375
.576
.635
.360
.677
. .375
.294
.360
.348

Total...............................................................................

1,823. 559

22.333

.735

8.333
8.333
12.500
15.625
4.167
13,542
37.500
302.083
28.125
16.667
17.708
50.000
98.958
22.917
9.375
25.000
35.417
• 34.375
31.250
29.167
50.000
20.833
19.792
45.883
33.333
52.083
81.250
56.250
41.667
53.125
27.083
132.292
128.125
38.542
12.500
15.625
375.000
20.833
23.958
54.757
18.647
11.283

.031
.089
.052
.088
.076
.365
1.750
.313
.135
.177
.729
1.438
.313
.135
.250
.490
.563
.250
.250
.615
.177
.250
.604
.250
.365
1.094
.760
.365
.365
.135
1.333
1.333
.729
.135
.146
5.054
.250
.302
1.090
.108
.097

.223
.641
.250
.338
.302
.337
.584
.348
.486
.600
.875
.872
.819
.864
.600
.830
.983
.480
.514
.738
.510
.758
.791
.450
.420
.808
.800
.526
.412
.299
.605
.624
1.135
.648
.561
.809
.720
.756
1.194
.348
.516

2,113.853

23.062

.655

31.250
12.500
26.042
4.514
26.042

.406
.070
.307
.021
.307

.780
.336
.707
.279
.707

100.34$

1. I ll

.664

Stock-room work....................................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand......................................

1.222

72.00
6 .0 0

48.00
96.00
230.39
32.00
144.00
144.00
96.00
72.00
96.00
321.78
207.83

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Sort work.................................................................................
Skive vamps, under tips......................................................
Paste toe box...........................................................................
Mark lining for heel and eyelet stay..................................
Pick name tapes.....................................................................
Trim threads...........................................................................
Work eyelet row.....................................................................
Stitch tops...............................................................................
Seam up tops.............................................................. ............
Rub seams...............................................................................
Cement.....................................................................................
Stitch backstays.....................................................................
Paste hook stays................... ................................................
Sort tops........... ......................................................................
Trim vamps.............................. : ............................................
Stitch tips................................... ............................................
Stitch tips, second row........................................................
Double vamps............................................. - ............ ............
Trim doubles..........................................................................
Seam vamps............................................................................
Rub seams................................................................................
Double tips..............................................................................
Line tongues (stitching)........................................................
Trim tongues...........................................................................
Paste eyelet stays on linings................................................
Stitch eyelet stays and tongue on linings..........................
Stitch heel stays on linings.................................................
Top face linings.......................................................................
Stitch name tapes on linings................ ...............................
Trim eyelet stays on linings.................................................
Turn bal............................... ..................................................
Undertrim................................................. _............................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Sort tops..................................................................................
Sort vamps...............................................................................
Vamp.........................................................................................
Lace shoe..................................................................................
Seem toe lining.......................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Operate elevators....................................................................
T o t a l ___________________________________________________

.02 1

.6 6 8

720.03
720.03
480.00
384.00
1,439.89
443.07
160.00
19.80
213.33
359.99
338.83
120.00

60.63
261.81
640.00
240.00
169.41
174.55
191.94
205.71
120.00

288.00
303.15
130.91
180.00
115.20
73.85
106.67
143.99
112.94
221.54
45.35
46.83
155.67
480.00
384.00
16.00
288.00
250.44
109.58
321.77
531.77

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade______ - ....................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Distribute.........................................................................
Case...................................................................................
T o ta l

__

_____

84791°— 24t-




_________

192.00
480.00
230.40
1,329.20
230.40

46

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D D IST R IC T .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T -C o n tin u e d .
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

33.—Men’s, Goodyear welt, russia calf vamp and top, single sole, leather heel— Contd.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— Concluded.

Insoles:
Cut........
Grade. ..
Sort___ Case____

46.875
15.625
41.667
10.417

l a 563
.088
.354
.089

|a721
.338
.510
.513

Total-

114.584

1.094

.573

Counters, leather1.

158.915

1.314

~5iT

83.333
41.667

.810
.325

.583
.468

Top^pieces:
Sort and skive.

125.000

1.135

113.788

1.033

.545

Heels:
Cut lifts...............
Grade lifts...........
Build heels......... .
Press dry............ .
Tack on rands...
Compress........... .
S o r t................... .
Case up............... .
Organization____

62.500
26.042
62.500
50.000
20.833
8.333
8.333
8.333
14.400

.553
.135
.430
.260
.216
.065
.065
.083
.175

.531
.311
.413
.312
.622
.468.468
.454
.729

Total_________

201.274

1.962

.451

13.542
15.625
13.542
6.250
15.625
31.250
33.333
27.083
18.647
22.674

.083
.133
.073
.031
.098
.267
.450
.300
.108
.433

.368
.511
.323
.298
.376
.513
.810
.665
.348
1.146

72.00
144.00

.545

Box toes, leather1 . . .
.

128.00
384.00
144.00
576.98

Total.

Stock fitting:
Stamp outsoles..................................
Shank outsoles.....................................
Cement outsoles..................................
Scour insoles........................................
Stamp insoles......................................
Round insoles....................................
Channel insoles...................................
Turn channels, insoles................. .
Sweep...................................................
Organization _ .....................................
Total..................................................

197. 571

1.976

1,071.480

9.625

.327
* .083
.427
5.042
1.563
4.879
L 140
.650

.538
.319
.615
.492
.948
.685
.625
.979

1,383.578

14. I ll

.612

22.917
46.875
15.625
151.042
26.042
46.875
26.042

.300
.392
.300
2.475
.423
.652
.272

.785
.502
1.152
.983
.975
.835
.627

443.07
384.00
443.07
96a 00
384.00
192.00
180.00
221.54
321.77
264.62

.539

36.458
15.625
41.667
614.583
98.958
427.083
109.375
39.829

m oo

288.60
72a 03
720.03
72a 03
416.67

.600

Total, sole-leather department-.«

96.00
230.40
96.00

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Pick lasts...... ............................. .
Paint lasts........ ..........................
Tack insoles....... ,........................ .
Assemble and side last, hand.,.
Pull over, machine....................
Operate bed machine........ .
Crown.......................................... .
Organization...... ..........................
Total..................................

.

164,57
384.00
144.00
9.76
6a 63
14.05
54.86
150.66

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Staple......... - ..............................
Pull tacks...................................
Trim toes................. ................
Goodyear welt..........................
Knock tacks..............................
Trim butt welts and inseams.
Beat welts.................................

261.81
128.00
384.00
39.72
230.40
128.00
230.40

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See p. 132-140.
•




47

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 33,

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

S3.—Men's, Goodyear welt, russia calf vamp and top, single sole, leather heel—Contd.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Tack shanks and butts....... .............................................
Fill bottoms.....................................................................
Cement welts— ................................... ...........................
Lay soles................................................ ...........................
Nail, heel seats—..................................... ......................
Rough round.....................................................................
Turn channels.......................................... .......................
Goodyear stitch.................................................................
Cement channels_____ _____________________________
Turn down channels........................... ......... ...................
Prick stitches............................................. ......................
Trim heel seats....................................—..........................
Level................. ................... ...........................................
Heel......... .........................................................................
Slug...................................................................................
Shave heels......................................................................
Breast heels............................................. .........................
Trim edges........................................................................
Joint............ .....................................................................
Grown...............................................................................
Sweep................................................... ............................
Operate elevators............................................................
Organization.......................................................... ...........
Total

__________

_____

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Scour, rough.......................................................... ..........
Set edge.............................................................................
Burnish stitches........................................................... ....
Stain rands........................................................................
Scour heel breasts..............................................................
Scour heels....... ................................................................
Smooth heels.....................................................................
Black heels....................... ...............................................
Scour bottoms..................... ............................................
Scour top pieces................................................................
Gum and stain...................................... ...........................
Stone heels............................................... ........................
Faking and polishing.................................... ...................
Pull lasts............................................................................
Return lasts................................................. ....................
Box lasts...........................................................................
Sweep.......... - ................... - ...............................................
Organization....................................... . .... ...................
T o ta l _______________________

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Stamp.......................................................... ....................
Line-m....................................................................... ........
Tree, hand.................... ....................... ...........................
Repair................................................................................
Clean and lace...................................................................
Brush.................................................................................
Gild face............................................................................
Mark cartons.............................................. ....................
Pack in cartons.................................................................
Take cartons from bench..................................................
Nail in boxes........................................ ...........................
S h ip ..................................................................................
Organization.....................................................................
Total........................................................................
Grand total




_

_

____ ______

31.250
26.042
15.625
36.458
20.833
62.500
15. 625
131.250
15.625
20.833
41. 667
20.833
41. 667
62.500
62.500
46.875
41.667
177.083
26.042
62.500
18.647
11.283
39.829

$0,442
.272
.131
.542
.263
.217
2.925
.208
.217
.544
.188
.490
1.267
.638
.713
.392
3.075
.490
.521
.108
.097
.650

$0,849
.627
.593
.892
.757
1.152
.833
1.337
.799
.625
.783
.541
.706
1.216
.612
.913
.564
1
.0*2
1.129
.500
.348
.516
.979

_ 1,364.552

20.404

.897

26.042
187.500
41.667
31.250
15.625
41.667
31.250
20.833
83.333
31.250
62.500
62.500
83.333
31.250
15.625
31.250
18.647
14.453

.450
3.075
.272
.185
.180
.450
.281
.150
1.067
.392
.942
.788
1.558
.392
.087
.161
.108
.276

1.037
.984
.392
.355
.691
.648
.540
.432
.768
.753
.904
.756
L 122
.753
.334
.309
.348
1.146

829.975

10.814

. .782

20.833
26.042
375.000
156.250
20.833

.208
.272
4.960
1.219
.272
.190
.401
.266
1.083
.108
.290
.313
.400

.599
.627
.792
.468
.783
.438
.385
.328
.416
.415
.418
.401
.833

1,023.594

9.962

.584

9,610.591

110.311

.689

26.012

62.500
46.875
156.250
15.625
41.667
46.875
28.802

10
.2 0

192.00
230.40
384.00
164.57
288.00
96.00
384.00
45.71
384.00
288.00
144.00
288.00
144.00
96.00
96.00
128.00
144.00
33.88
230.40
96.00
321.77
531.77
150.65

230.40
32.00
144.00
192.00
384.00
144.00
192.00
288.00
72.00
192.00
96.00
96.00
72.00
192.00
384.00
192.00
321.77
415.14

288.00
230.40
16100
38.40
288.00
230.40
96.00
128.00
38.40
384.00
144.00

m 00

208.31

48

A N D LABOR COSTS— ^N EW E N G L A N D D IST R IC T .

t im e

T IM E A N D LABOR C 0 8 T S IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Of—Men’s welt bal., russian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

.
___
_
Selecting dies for cutters......................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine.................................
Case up shoes.......................... ...............................................
Match marks................. ........................................................
Cut linings, machine.............................................................
Case up side linings................................................................
Cut and case facings...............................................................
Case up doublers.....................................................................
Skive enamel side linings.................. ........... ............. ........
Skive bottom of pointed stays, wide..................................
Skive pointed stays, narrow.................................................
Skive toes............................. ...................................................
Skive bal tops..........................................................................
Skive vamp throats................................................................
Skive bottom of bal tops.......................................................
Skive bottom of bal tongues.................................................
Skive sides of tongues............................................................
Punch tips................................................................................
Skive tips..................................................................................
Stamp linings...........................................................................
Floor work................................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

67.200
28.800
500.000
31.250
36.458
2a 833
7.292
36.458
a 250
25.521
* 4.167
10.417
8.333
29.688
28.646
17.188
3.125
8.333
8.333
7.813
9.375
23a 400
9.600
19.200

$0,468
.378
6.563
.375
.333
.208
.125
.229
.125
.208
.083
.146
.113
.375
.229
.208
.083
.177
.052
.088
.065
21169
.050
.213

$a788
.788
.720
.548
.599
1.029
.377
1.200
.489
1.195
.841
.814
.758
.480
.726
1.594
1.274
.374
.676
.416
.565
.313
.666

Total...............................................................................

1,154.680

13.063

.679

4a 354
48.438
53.646
26.042
51.042
25.521
21.875
41.146
2a 563
27.083
23.958
11.458
74.479
44.271
29.167
11.979
39.063
29.688
8.333
101.563
19.792
145.833
2a 042
la 146
280.208
72.917
8.333
19.792
19.792
18.750
34.896
4.688

.240
.528
.396
.250
.167
.250
.296
.417
.375
.271
.375
.177
.708
.438
.229
.146
.443
.208
.094
.667
.229
1.792
.375
.188
2.708
.375
.113
.188
.188
.208
.375

.311
.654
.443
.576
.196
.588
.812
.608
.847
.600
.939

fit.nck-room w ork

89.28
208! 38
12.00
192.00
164.57
288.00
822.82
164.57
96a 00
235.10
1,439.88
575.98
72a 03
202.10
209.45
349.06
1, 92 a 00
72a 03
72a 03
767.95
64a 00
2a 04
62a 02
312.50

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Stain vamps............................ ...................... .........................
Stitch extensions......................................................... ..........
Cement brace and side linings.............................................
Double tops, bal.....................................................................
Double vamps............... ........................................................
Close vamps..................................................................... .......
Stay vamps..................................................... .........................
Tip two rows, edge.................................................................
Tip third row through b o x .................................................
Close tops.................................................................................
Stitch eyelet rows with gauge..............................................
Cement for double for machine............. .............................
Stitch facings and tongues............. .......................................
Stitch heel stays on linings...................................................
Stitch top bands.....................................................................
Trim linings.............................................................................
Cement hook-stays.................................................................
Rub tops...................................................................................
Stitch pointed stays with straps..........................................
Sort tops and linings..............................................................
Stitch tops................................................... - ..........................
Eyelet..................................... .................................... ............
Sort v a m p s.............................................. .............................
Close vamps, two rows........................... .......................
Brace at heel____________________ __________ __________
Trim tongues...........................................................................
Close toes.................................................................................
Stitch felt linings on tongues................................................
Count and check out..............................................................
Floor work................................ .............................................
Odd shoe work_________ _ ___ _
_____________
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization..........................................................................
Total

_

_




n ___T . ,

.927

.570
.594
.471
.731
.680
.420
.677
.394
.694
.737
.864
.699
.580
.309
.814
.570
.570
.6 6 6

105.600
19.200
38.400

.098
.437

.645
.512
.468
.391
.306
.683

1,879.258

17.075

.545

307:200

.040
2.398
.6 8 8

129.44
123.87
111.84
230.40
117.55
23a 10
274.20
145.82

22a 88
221.54
25a 44

523.65
8a 56

13a 53
205.71

500.88
153; 60

202.10

720.03
59.08
303.15
41.14
23a 40
371.61
21.41
82.29

72a 03

303.15
303.15

32a 00

171.94
1,279.86
19.53
5a 81
312.54

15a 24

49

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 34.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y DISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 4 .—Men’s

welt bal., russian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Contd.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs Jo1100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
Cut..............................................................................
Sort.
Grade____________________________ ______ - .........
Stamp____________ ____________________________
Case."....................... .................... ............... .............
General work__________________________________
Total

____

Total

. „ __

___

__. _

Counters:
Cut....... ..................... .................................................
Skive___ __
___
M old_____
Sort
__,____
.
.
____
_________
Glue ____ _ _
_ ______
General work
_
_ __
Total______________
Box toes, leather i___

______________________

__________

Heels:
Cut heel lifts and make bases „ _ _ _
Case heel bases___ _
.... ....... _ _ _ _ _
General work
Total_____ ________________

________

Stock fitting:
Shank outsoles _.
. ...
Round insoles..... ........................ ............... ..............
Cut insole lips at toes and heels, and stamp
Channel________________________ ______ ________
Cement channels_
_
____
_
Crimp insoles
Cut canvas. ..
________
Form canvas.
Trim gems..................................................................
Pound down hutts
Inspect insoles _
_ _ ___ _ _
___
Case insoles
Match stock to uppers__________________________
Sweep.........................................................................
General work
._
...
_
_. r ___ _
Organization
_
_ _
Total

_______

_________________

Total, sole-leather department

.100

$0,657
.656
.300
.461
.374
.385

.992

.501

46.875
52.083
20.833
10.417
15.600

.326
.521
.104
.065

.1 0
0

.417
.600
.300
.374
.385

145.808

1.116

.459

46.875
10.417
34.375
8.333
36.458
15.600

.326
.076
.227
.056
.177

.100

.417
.438
.396
.403
.291
.385

152.058

.962

.380

113.788

Insoles:
Cut
_
_ _
Sort.............................................................................
Grade.
Case _ ___
_ ________________
General work
, r
_ _
_

$0,228
.387
.104
.056
.117

118.725

. , , __ ___
_

20.833
35.417
20.833
7.292
18.750
15.600

1.033

.545

93.750
36.458
15.600

.797
.229

.100

.510
.377
.385

145.808

1.126

.463

33.333
26.042
27.083
26.042
20.833
20.833
10.417
10.417
20.833
16.625
52.083
26.042
12.500
9.600
19.200
38.400

.208
.208
.194
.284
. 104
.188
. 125
.125
.229
.083
.260
.163
.089
.045
.173
.453

.374
.479
.430
.654
.300
.541
.720
.720
.660
.319
.300
.376
.427
.281
.541
.708

369.283

2.931

.476

1,045.470

8.160

.468

288.00
169.41
288.00
822.82
320.00
384.61

128.00
115.20
288.00
575.98
384.61

128.00
575.98
174.55
720.03
164.57
384.61

64.00
164.57
384.61

180.00
230.40
221.54
230.40
288.00
288.00
575.98
575.98
288.00
384.00
115.20
230.40
480.00
625.02
312.54
156.24

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See p. 132-140.




50

T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS— NETT E N G L A N D D IST R IC T .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 19®,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Cont inued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . $ 4 .-— Men’s

welt bal., russian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Contd.
Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Put up lasts..............................................................................
Tack insoles.............................................................................
Trim insoles.............................................. - ............................
Assemble for puller-over machine......................................
Pull over, machine.................................................................
Side last, machine......... - ......................... .............................
Operate bed machines............................................................
General work...........................................................................
Odd shoe work........................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Cobble......................................................................................
Organization............. ....... ............... .......... ...........................
Total

__,

_

_____ _ _

20.833
21.875
17.708
109.375
109.375
125.000
302.083
9.800
9.600
9.600
19.200
48.000

$0,141
.358
.113
1.417
1.667
1.583
3.042
.055
.078
.049
.188
.622

$0,406
.982
.383
.777
.915
.760
.604
.344
.488
.306
.588
.778

802.249

9.313

.697

9.375
28.646
71.875
32.292
33.854
45.313
20.833
17.708
22.396
13.542
6.771
34.896
19.271
43.229
123.438
11.458
8.854
8.333
42.708
11.458
3.125
3.125
26.042
31.771
50.000
33.333
166.667
41.667
9.600
9.600
19.200
57.600
38.400

.206
.375
1.813
.600
.281
.528
.300
.188
.225
.150
.113
.486
.300
1.614
2.375
.167
.169
.188
.450
.208
.016
.013
.750
.938
.639
.300
2.625
.417
.054
.077
.098
.572
.437

1.318
.785
1.513
1.115
.498
.699
.864
.637
.603
.665
1.001
.836
.934
1.407
1.154
.874
1.145
1.354
.632
1.089
.307
.250
1.728
1.771
.767
.540
.945
.600
.338
.481
.306
.596
.683

1,096.380

17.072

.934

20.833
50.000
187.500
20.833
16.667
70.833
41.667
46.875
28.125
20.833
29.187
44.792
34.375
15.625
9.375
42.708
2.400
4.800
9.600
24.000
19.200

.167
.600
2.542
.206
.150
.625
,375
.600
.271
.146
.250
.260
.500
.125
.263
.417
.018
.035
.068
.175
.215
8.008

.481
.720
.813
.593
.540
.529
.540
.768
.578
.420
.514
.348
.873
.480
1.683
.586
.450
.438
.425
.438
.672
.649

288.00
274.29
338.83
54.86
54.86
48.00
19.86
625.02
625.02
625.02
312.54
125.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim toes........ ............... ............................................. ..........
Pull tacks......... .......... ............. ........................ ...............
Goodyear welt............... ................................ ........................
Trim seams and b u tt_____ ____ ____________ _______
Pound butts...........................................................................
Knock tacks........................................... .......... .....................
Beat welts........................ ......................................................
Stick shanks
_ _
_ _ __ ____
Fill bottoms.............................................................................
Cement bottoms.......................................... ..........................
Cement soles.... ............... ......................... ..............................
Lay soles.................. ...............................................................
Nail heel seats_____.'.......... .......................................„..........
Rough round and channel............................... ............ ........
Goodyear stiteh...................... ...............................................
Raise channels________________________________________
Cement channels........... .............................................. .........
Lay channels....................... .................. ..................... ..........
Level......................... .............. ........................................ .
Trim heel seats___
Cement rubber heels..............................................................
Cement rubber heel bases........ ............................................
Attach bases______________ _______________ ___________
Attach rubber heels................................. ...................... .......
Trim heels, one-half rubber_________ _________________
Breast heels............................................................................
Trim edges_________________ _______ ____________ _____
Joint, one side.... .................................... .......... .....................
Odd shoe work............... ..................................... ........ . _

Operate elevators

___ __

____

Sweep.................................... ........................................ ..........
General work and cobble............................................
Organization............................................ ..... ..........................
T o t a l ................................................................

640.00
209.45
83.48
185.80
177.23
132.41
288.00
338.83
267.90
443.07
886.13
171.94
311.35
138.80
48.61
523.65
677.66
720.03
140.49
523.65
1,920.00
1,*920.00
230.40
188.85
120.00
180.00
36.00
144.00
625.02
625.02
312.54
104.17
156.25

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour heel breasts.........................................................
_
Scour heels, first time
_ _
_
Set edges............................................................... .......... .........
Scour heels, second time........................................... ..........
Black heels.........................................................................
Burnish heels____________ ______________________ _____
Inspect (out erf room)
.
____
____
Sand foreparts.............. .........................................................
Naumkeag and dust................. ........................... ...............
Pinwheel shanks.... ....................................... ........................
Stain, first time........ ............................................................
Stain, second time..................................................................
Polish buttons.........................................................................
Wheel breast...........................................................................
Stamp shoes.............................................................. .............
Pull lasts...................................................................................
Odd shoe work . . .
_ _
____
Sweep_______________ _____________ __________________
Operate elevator..................................................... ................
General work____ _______ _____________ ________ _____
Organization................. ..................................................... .....

Total_____




_ _ _ _ ______

740.208

288.00
120. C
O
32.00
288.00
359.99
84.71
144.00
128.00
213.33
288.00
205.71
133.95
174.55
384.00
640.00
1^9.49
2,'00.00
1,250.00
625.02
2.0.00
312.54

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 35.

51

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OP SHOES I N 1923,
B Y DISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

54.—Men's welt bal., rassian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Coned.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Search for tacks........................... .....................................
Cut. tacks ..........,
______
Burn threads r ___
,
—
— *
Paste heel pads
_
____
Pair for treers______
___
_______________
Tree, hand_________
_____
________________
Dress russets
______
—
Apply coat of filler__ ____ - _____________________ —
Polish russets________________________________ -- ---ITaftft
........
......
Repair
Brush heels and edges, entered
.... .
______
Emboss top band _
_ - __
___________
Inspect,
........ _ _______
Mark carton* .
ir. r..
___ ________
Pack shoes
......
.
.
Seal cases
_______
____ ___ ______ - _______ ——
Stencil cases..........
. . . . . . _____- .........
Odd shoe work
___
- - Operate elevators___ _________________________ ____
Sweep
. / .......... _
Repair __
_____________
Ship
General work
_
_ _
Organization
...
—*
Total____ ____ __ __________-_________________
Grand t o t a l._

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 5 —

—______

— __________

$0,094
.130
.094
.113
.113
1.917
.639
.300
.542
.271
.600
.188
.081
.217
.052
.194
.065
.080
,060
.067
.005
.198
.150
.315

$0,451
.374
.773
.434
.501
.736
.387
. 576
.520
.743
.461
.401
.311
.417
,274
.447
.374
.461
.375
,419
,322
.413
.469
.438
,656

774.692

6.695

.519

7,492.937

79.380

.210

1

480.00
288.00
822.82
384.00
443.07
38.40
60.63
192.00
96.00
274.29
76.80
273.33
384.00
192.00
720.03
230.40
575.98
675.98
625.02
625.02
6,430.86
208.34
312.54
208.34
208.34

.636

Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole,
leather heel.

C T IN D P R M N .
UT G E A T E T
Stock-room work
______ -____
Cut. vamps, tips, quart****, and tongues, hand
...... ....................... .......... .............
Sort_____ —
Cut quarter finings (leather), hand
___
._ _
Cut vamp M
ningsrcloth,.-_________ —
____ -_____
Cut vamp doublers, cloth___
_ Cut. sock linings
_ . ..
Match marks and sizes __
Cripple work r........
... Mark vamps for tips ____ ____________ _____
Mark quarter perforations ___________ „________
Perforate tips. , ____ ______
__
Skive vamps .—
...— ___
Skive quarters
. . .
Stencil case numbers........ .
Sort and count. ___
______ -_-________
Cripple work (girls)
____
Inspect- _ _________________ ___ _________
_
Floor work-________ _________ _______________
Sweep______________ ________-_—
________
Organization_________________ _______________
Total____ ...... , ....... . a ,,.. .,
J




12.500
2a 833
7.292
15.625
13.542
156.250
98.958
31.250
62.500
21.875
78.125
28.125
15.625
31.250
8.333
26.042
10.417
10.417
9.600
9.600
.938
28.800
19.200
28.800
28.800

25.512
313.818
89.292
216.000
18.280
23.326
41.472
21.949
2$. 302
51.654
34,524
14.421
21.718
28.519
29.308
53.478
12.756
12.756
25.512
12.756
12.756
1,088.109

$0,283
3.350
.665
.900
.300
.180
.320
.220
.250
.190
.200
.160
.150
.180
.290
.500
.064
.079
.166
.053
.276
8.776

$0,666
.641
. 447
.250
.985
.463
.463
.661
.530
.221
. 348
.666
.414
.379
.594
,564
.301
,372
.390
.249
1.298
.484

235.18
19.12
67.20
27.78
328.23
257.22
144.68
273.36
212.00
116.16
173.79
416.06
276.27
210.39
204.72
112.20
470.37
470.37
235.18
470.37
470.37

52

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W

E N G L A N D D IST R IC T .

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D IS T R IC T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

55.—Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, laee oxford, single sole,
leather heel—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Perforate vamps.............................. ............
Double vamps........ ................... ........... .
Stitch tips.....................................................
Close heel seams..........................................
Stay heel seams............. .............................
Snip (quarters).............................................
Cement quarters..........................................
Fold quarters...............................................
Perforate quarters........................................
Stitch perforated quarters..........................
Close heel linings.........................................
Stay heel linings........................................
Stitch quarters to toe linings.....................
Stitch tops.-.._T...........................................
Eyelet.................... ........... ..........................
Match vamps............. ................................
Vamp____ ________ _____ ______ _______
Bar____________ ______________ ________
Lace____________________________ ______
Tie up................... .........................................
Cripple work................................................
Floor work........... .......... ............................
Odd shoe work..,___ ___________________
Sweep..........................................................
Machinists’ work.......................................
Belt repairing...... .......... .............................
Inspect..................................... ....................
Check out work...........................................
Organization.................................................

29.490
26.491
54.136
30.151
26.530
18.445
36.738
131.112
58.974
103.794
33.486
62.502
135.000
61.460
207.318
22.873
66.667
145.518
21.193
40.002
11.818
138.462
102.048
102.048
12.756
12.756
25.512
12.756
12.756
38.268

$0,250
.180
.300
.200
.250
.170
.150
.590
.500
.840
.200
.250
.540
.320
1.360
.190
.250
1.500
.180
.160
.110
.750
.646
.468
.077
.157
.159
.068
.049
.665

$0,509
.408
.332
.398
.565
.553
.245
.270
.509
.486
.358
.240
.240
.312
.394
.498
.225
.618
.510
.240
.558
.325
.380
.275
.362
.738
.374
.320
.230
1.043

Total..................... .............................

1,781.060

11.529

.388

Outsoles, leather1___ _______ ____________
Insoles, leather1
_______ . ________ ____ ____
Counters, leather1.............. *..._.....................
Top pieces, leather1 ........... ......................
....
Box toes, leather1................... .........................
Heels, leather, 8/81..........................................

84. Ill
110.404
158.915
55.330
113.788
423.-179

.892
1.069
1.314
.587
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.636
.545
.461

Stock fitting:
Reduce shanks..................................^_
_
Stamp and size.........................................
Cement and tie up................................. *
Channel.....................................................
Grade and stamp sizes............................
Cut toes.....................................................
Cement________ . . . . .......... .....................
Cut lips.......................................................
Set lips._____ *............................................
Lay, duck and form.................................
Reenforce..................................................
Sort sizes and case....................................
Inspect...................................; ................. .
General work............................................
Organization.........................................._A
_
Round insoles.__________ ___________ _

20.424
30.000
44.348
• 58.074
12.857
10.715
30.000
21.429
29.269
36.432
36.432
17.850
12.856
12.756
12.756
28.422

.230
.140
.170
.370
.060
.050
.140
.100
.200
.170
.170
.140
.060
.079
.197
.180

.676
.280
.230
.382
.280
.280
.280
.280
.410
.280
.280
.471
.280
.372
.927
.380

203.46
226.49
110.83
199.00
226.16
325.29
163.32
45.76
101.74
57.81
179.18
96.00
44.45
97.62
28.94
262.32
90.00
41.23
283.11
149.99
507.70
43.33
58.80
58.80
470.37
470.37
235.18
470.37
470.37
156.79

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total........................................................

414.620

2.456

.355

Total, sole-leather department______

1,360.347

10.604

293.77
200.00
135.29
103.32
466.67
559.96
200.00
279.99
205.00
164.69
164.69
336.13
466.71
47ft 37
47ft 37
211.10

.468

i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several icpresentative establishments. See p. 132-140.




E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 35,

53

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 6 .—

Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole,
leather heel—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Put up soles..............................................................................
Match uppers..........................................................................
Put up lasts..............................................................................
Chalk heels........ .....................................................................
Tack insoles..............................................................................
Trim heel seats........................................................................
Assemble for puller-over machine........................................
Pull over, machine..................................................................
Wet............................................................................................
Side last, machine...................................................................
Operate bed machine..............................................................
Put away lasts.........................................................................
Scour toes................................. i ..............................................
Cripple work............................................................................
Inspect toes........ ..................... ...............................................
Cobble............... .......................................................................
Inspect......................_■......................................................................
Odd shoe w ork.......................................................................
Operate elevators............... ....................................................
Organization............................................................................

12.756
12.756
20.323
5.977
34.358
32.197
68.592
71.964
44.106
102.714
223.938
61.770
14.346
56,604
34.884
12.779
180.000
180.000
60.000
12.756
60.000

$0,060
.100
.170
.050
.300
.140
.670
.900
.250
1.300
2.520
.350 '
.120
.250
.250
.164
1.330
.990
.430
.074
.926

Total...............................................................................

1,302.820

11.344

.522

Stick nails.................. ....................................................................
Heel...........................................................................................
Slug heels................... .. ..................................................... .......
Shave heels...............................................................................
Breast heels.............................................. .. ..............................
Gouge.................. .. ....................................................................
Inspect.................................. .. ...........................................................................
Floor work.............. •_............................. ........................................................................
Odd shoe work.......................................... ............................................
Operate elevators................................................................... ..................................
Organization..................................................................................................................

41.826
41.580
82.759
77.418
35.836
39.619
34.247
24.789
61.740
18.324
73.554
34.430
42.961
29.430
24.387
151.578
15.427
42.858
<59.363
17.143
41.651
17.845
12.167
235.470
12.000
20.572
21.954
10.422
38.802
48.634
23.794
55.374
43.899
19.025
120.000
60.000
120.000
12; 756
60.000

.310
.230
.380
1.500
.300
.450
.300
.230
.330
.170
.380
.490
.680
.230
.270
2.000
.200
.200
.680
.100
.540
.220
.150
1.580
.070
.120
.150
.120
.250
.540
.230
.450
.310
.130
1.060
.300
.660
.066
1 . Ill

.445
.332
.276
1.163
.502
.681
.526
.557
.321
.557
.310
.854
.950
.469
.664
.792
.778
.280
.687
.350
.778
.740
.740
.403
.350
.350
.410
.691
.387

Total......................................................................................................................

1,923.634

17.487

.545

$0,282
.470
.502
.502
.524
.261
.586
.750
.340
.759
.675
,340
.502
.265
.430
.770
.443
.330
.430
.348
.926

470.37
470.37
295.23
1,003.85
174.63
186.35
87.48
83.38
136.04
58.42
26.79
97.13
418.24
106.00
172.00
469.52
33.33
33.33
100.00
470.37

m oo

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim..........................................................................................
Staple uppers..........................................................................
Pull side tacks.........................................................................
Goodyear welt ... ......................................................................
Pull insole tacks..........................................................................................................
Trim seams.....................................................................................................................
Butt welts............... .. ....................................................................
Beat welts............................................................................ ...........................................
Fill bottoms.............................................................................
Cement bottoms---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Put in shanks_____ : ...................................................................................................
Lay soles........................... .............................................................. .
Rough round...........................J..............................................
Turn channels.........................................................................
Reduce shanks........................................................................
Goodyear stitch.......................................................................
Lay channels— ...................................... ..............................
Cement channels.....................................................................
Level................... .. ....................... _•................................................................
Wet channels.................................................................................................................
Break shanks and trim..........................................................
Nail heel seats..............................................................................................................
Round heel seats.......................................................... .............................................
Trim edges.............. ........................................................................................................
Case counters..........................................................................
Case heels..........................................................................................................................
Prick heels........................................................................................................................




.6 6 6

.580
.488
.424
.410
.530
.300
.330
.310
1.111

143.45
144.30
72.50
77.50
167.43
151.44
175.20
242.04
97.18
327.44
81.57
174.27
139.66
203.87
246.03
39.58
388.93
140.00
101.07
350.00
144.06
336.23
493.13
25.48
500.00
291.66
273.30
575.71
154.63
123.37
252.17
108.35
136.68
315.37
50.00
100.00
50.00
470.37
100.00
------------ _

54

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D IST R IC T .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES I N 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

S5.—Women's Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole,
leather heel—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Set edges......... ............... — — ................- ............................
Wheel edges—..........................................................................
Scour heel breasts............—..................... —...........................
FiB heels............................—- .......................... .......................
Scour heels, first time............................................................
Scour heels, second time........................................................
Veneer heels.....................—....................................................
Black heels-......................— .................................... - ..........
Burnish heels.-..........—.........................................................
Cripple work.................... - ..................... ................................
Scour bottoms........ .................. .............................................
Naumkeag...................... « ............................... .......................
Dust off.....................................................................................
Repair channels............................................—.......................
Black bottoms.......................................— ............................
Polish bottoms.........................................................................
Brush uppers................... .......................................................
Wheel bottoms................ ——................................................
Pull lasts......................... ........................ - ..............................
Cripple work-—. ................................... —............................
Inspect.................................... - ................................................
Odd shoe work____ ______ ______ _______ ___________
Organization— .....................- ................—...........................
Total___

_______________________

________

237.640
37.594
21.177
10.098
41.142
18.061
19.765
30.000
46.158
53.574
30.239
23.028
15.556
22.158
28.014
39.678
37.590
25.946
12.704
18.046
12.756
38.268
12.756

$1.580
.250
.150
.110
.410
.180
.140
.140
.500
.250
.430
.250
.070
.120
.240
.410
.360
.160
.130
.100
.089
.223
.197

$0,399
.399
.425
.410
.598
.598
.425
.280
.650
.280
.853
.651
.270
.325
.514
.620
.575
.370
.614
.332
.419
.350
.927

837.848

6.489

.465

35.378
156.330
333.330
113.940
31.035
13.791
79.638
45.456
32.689
63.828
12.756
25.512
12.756
12.756
12.756
12.756
12.756

.250
1.850
2.000
.500
.150
.140
.500
.250
.310
. 500
.117
.187
s
•ecu
VW
•061
!072
.119
.236

25.26

moo

283.33
372 72
145.84
33221
363.57

moo

12299
111.99
198.42
266.55
385.70
272 78
214.18
151.22
152 62
231.25
47230
33248
470; 37
156.79
470.37

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Put in sock Minings.........................................................— —
Tree, band..........................——....................................... .......
Repair............................. ........................................... - ..........
Black edges.......................... — ..............................................
T-aC
.e
__________
__ _ __
Brush edges* heels, and bottoms.........................................
Inspect......... ................................................................. .....
Make boxes and label.—__ —.............. ...............................
Pack............... - .........................- ..............................................
Cripple work— ................. ........... ............................. .......
Rede an shoes.... ................... - ________ - .......................—
Odd shoe work.......................- ................................................
Stencil cases.......................................................................... —
Nail cases..................................................................................
Shipping labor........................ - ..........................................
Ship................................. - ............................................ ...........
Organization —. _____ . . . . . . ___ ____ ___________ ____

.424
.710
.360
.263
.290
.013 '
.377
.330
.569
.470
.550
.440
.452
.301
.339
.560
1.110

T o t a l . . . _______ _____________ —________ ______

1,007.384

7.341

.437

Grand total____________________ ——_________—

9,301.202

73.570

.475

169.60
38.38
18.00
5266
193.33
437.92
75.34
132 00
183.55
9400
470.37
235.18
476.37
470.37
470.37
470.37
470.37

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 9 .—Women’s

McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8
leather heel.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Stock-room work........................................ ............... ...........
Cut vamps, tfcs, quarters, and tongues, hand.................
Cut quarter linings and leather, hand___________ _____
Cut vamp lhrinss, cloth........................... ............................
Cut vamp dbumers, cloth...................... ................—..........
Cut socklinings......................................................... ............
Match marks and sizes_____________ - ................. _______
Cripple work.........................................................................
Mark vamps for tips................................. ..........................
Mark quarter perforations._____________________ ______




1
I .........

25.512
313.818
89.292
216.000
18.280
23.331
41.469
21.949
28.302
51.654
34522

$0,283
3.350
.665
.900
.300
.180
.320
.220
.250
.190
.200

$0,666
.641
.447
.250
.985
.463
.463
.601
.530
.2
21
.348

235.18
19.12
67.20
27.78
328.23
257*17
14469
273.36
22 0
1 .0
116.16
173.80

55

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 39 .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1823,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

50.—Women's McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8
leather heel—Continued

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT— c o n c lu d e d .

14.421
21.7i8
28. 519
29.308
53.476
12. 756
12.756
25.512
12.756
12.756

$0.160
.150
.180
.290
.500
.064
.079
.166
.053
.276

$0.666
.414
.379
.594
.561
.301
.372
.390
.249
1.298

1,088.107

8.776

.484

29. 487
26.490
54.135
30.151
26. 530
18.445
36.735
131. Ill
58,976
103.789
33.482
02.500
135.000
61.460
207.317
22.873
66.667
145.513
21.193
40.000
11.817
138.462
102.048
102.048
12.756
12. 756
25. 512
12.756
12. 756
38.268

.250
.180
.300
.200
.250
.170
.150
.590
.500
.840
.206
.250
.540
.320
1.360
.190
.250
1.500
.180
.160
.110
.750
.646
.468
.077
.157
.159
.068
.049
.665

.509
.408
.332
.398
.565
.553
.245
.270
.509
.486
.358
.240
.240
.312
.394
.493
.225
.618
.510
.240
.559
.325
.380
.275
.362
.738
.374
.320
.231
1.043

1,781.033

11.529

.388

Outsoles, leather1_____________________________________

84. Ill

.892

.637

Insoleis:
Die out..................................... ........................................
Sort and c a s e ................................................................

13.211
95.623

.110
.750

.500
.471

108.834

.860

.474

158.915
55.330
113.788
423.179

1.314
.587
1.033
3.253

Perforate tips...........................................................................
Skive vamps..........- ................................................................
Skive quarters...... ..................................................................
Stencil case numbers............................................................
Sort and count—.....................................................................
Cripple work (girls)...............................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Floor work............ .............................................. ..................
Sweep.................................................................. - ...................
Organization...... .......................................... - ........................
Total__

T ________

_

_

_

______

416.00
276.26
210.39
204.72
112.20
470.37
470.37
235.18
470.37
470.37

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Perforate vamps......................................................................
Double vamps........................................................................
Stitch tips.......... ............................................—.....................
Close heel seams.....................................................................
Stay heel seams.......................................................................
Snip (quarters)........................................................................
Cement quarters...................................................................
Fold quarters..........................................................................
Perforate quarters...................................................................
Stitch perforated quarters..........................- ........................
Closft heal linings
. ............ ....
Stay heel linings.......................................... ..........................
Stitch quarters to toe linings..............................................
Close toe linings......................................................................
Stitch tops...............................................................................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Match vamps..........................................................................
Vamp............................................... .♦......................................
Lace........................................................................................
Tie up.......................................................................................
Cripple work....................................................... ...................
Floor work......... .................... ..............................................
Odd shoe work...................... ................................................
Sweep.......................................................................................
Machinists’ work...................................................................
Belt repairing.........................................................................
Inspect— ...................................... ........................................
Check out work.....................................................................
Organization........ .................................................................
T o ta l.

_____________

203.43
226.50
110.83
199.00
226.15
325.30
163.33
45.76
101.74
57.81
179 20
96.00
44.45
97.62
28.94
262.32
90.00
41.23
283.11
150.00
507.74
43.33
58.80
58.80
470.37
470.37
235.18
470.37
470.37
156.79

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total

.

Counters, leather 1 _

________

____

__ ... __
Top pieces1
......................... - ..................................................
Box toes, leather 1_ . ..............................................................
Heels, leather, R/8 L
...
_____ _____

454.16
62.75

—
.496
.636
.545 ___ ______ _
.461

1These are purchased. The average-shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT,

56

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 9 .—

Women’s McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8
leather heel—Continued.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— Concluded.

Stock fitting:
Wet outsoles.....................................................................
Round outsoles..............................................................
Channel..........................................................................
Mold..................................................................................
Wet channels. ..................................................................
Turn channels. ...............................................................
Black.................................................................................
Feather edge.....................................................................
Flesh..................................................................................
Cement and press............................................................
Slash..................................................................................
Mold..................................................................................
Stamp sizes and tie up...................................................
Cripple w o rk ..................................................................
Inspect..... .........................................................................
General work.............. ..................................................—
Organization.....................................................................
Total

10.026
16.093
22.979
14.167
5.106
11.489
12.857
8.658
12.987
38.530
6.486
12.396
30.000

$0,050
.130
.180
.030
.040
.090
.060
.060
.090
.180
.040
.070
.140

12.756
12.756
12,756

.060
.079
.197

$a299
.485
.470
.339
.470
.470
.280
.416
.416
.280
.370
.339
.280
.300
.282
.372
.927

2 .0 0
00

.100

______________

26a 042

1.646
9.585

.478

.060

.262
.127
.074
.575

.282
.470
.587
.910
.702
.783
.624
.937
.825
.678
.377
.544
.405
.791
.378
.510
.587
.320
.427
.771
.370
,485
.470
.348
.710

20 0
0 .0

300.00
47a 37
470.37
470.37

.380

Total, sole-leather department__________________

1,201199

598.44
372.83
261.11
423.52
1,17A 08
522.24
46a 67
693.00
462.00
15a 72
925.06
484.03

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Put up soles......................... - ..................................................
Match uppers.........................................................................
Put up lasts..............................................................................
Tack insoles...................................................... .......... ............
Assemble for pull-over, machine..........................................
Pull over, machine.................................................................
Side last, machine............. ....................................................
Operate bed machines............................................................
Pound.......................................................................................
Pull insole tacks......................................................................
Pull heel tacks and cut strings.............................................
Tack shanks..........................................................................
Tack outsoles...... ..................................................................
Pull lasts...................................................................................
Nail toes___________ ________ ___________ _____________
Put away lasts.........................................................................
Scour toes.................................................................................
Cripple work............................................................................
Inspect toes..............................................................................
Cobble.......................................................................................
Floor work...............................................................................
Odd shoe work.........................................................................
Operate elevators....................................................................
Organization.............................................................................
Total

__________

_T
_________

12.756
12.756
17.388
19.351
57.289
5a 727
125.020
142.095
30.564
15.939
15.593
21256
37.037
37.936
25.370
29.412
12.274
4a 875
35.154
12.756
32.400
32.400
16.200
12.756
48.600

.100

.170
.300
.670
.740
1.300
. 2.220
.420
.180
.150

.220

.250
.500
.160
.250

.120

.250
.250
.164

.200

_ _____

908.904

9.712

.641

W et outsoles............................................................................
M cKay sew..............................................................................
Nail heel seats.........................................................................
Cement channels...................... _............ ................... ...........
•
Level sizes........................................... ................. .................
Wet.leather_____________________________________ _____
Level.........................................................................................
Relast.......................................................................................
Put away followers............................................ ................. ;
Trim edges______________ _______________ _____________
Brush edges.... ................................................. ......................
Case counters_________________________________________
Case heels.................................................................................
Prick heels................................................................................

7.659
68.966
2a 962
31.945
2a 250
5.944
42.972
49.237
23.478
7a 396
30.000

.060
.770
.170
.170
.140
.050
.590
.360
.090
.910
.140
.070

.470
.670
.487
.319
.320
.505
.517
.439
.230
.715
.280
.350
.350
.410

470.37
470.37
345.06
310.06
104.73
10a77
47.99
42.22
19a 31
376.43
384.78
247.36
162.00
158.16
23a 50
204.00
488.84
128.00
17a 68
470.37
185.20
185.20
370.37
470.37
123.46

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.




1 .0 0
20

20.571
21.951

.120

.150

783.39
87.00
286.23
187.82
228.57
1,009.42
139.63

11 6
2 .8

255.56
78.54

20 0
0 .0

500.00
291.67
273.34

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 39.

57

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Concluded.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 9 .—

Women's McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8
leather heel—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Sort for heelers.........................................................................
Stick nails.................................................................................
Heel...........................................................................................
Slug heels..................................................................................
Shave heels...............................................................................
_________ ________ _ ..
Breast heels
Inspect............................. ........................................................
Cobble.......................................................................................
Odd shoe work.......................................................................
Operate elevatois....................................................................
Organization............................................................................

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Set edges...................................................................................
Wheel edges.............................................................................
Scour heel breasts...................................................................
Fill heels...................................................................................
Scour heels, first time............................................................
Scour heels, second time........................................................
Veneer heels.............................................................................
Pad heels..................................................................................
Black heels...............................................................................
Burnish heels...........................................................................
Cripple work...........................................................................
Scour bottoms................. ......................................................
Naumkeag................................................................................
Dust off.....................................................................................
Repair channels.......................................................................
Black bottoms.........................................................................
Polish bottoms...................................... .................................
Brush uppers...........................................................................
Wheel bottoms........................................................................
Pull lasts................................................................................
Cripple work...........................................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Odd shoe work........................................................................
Organization................................................. _.........................
•
Total.... ......................................

___

$0.140
.500
.860
.170
.410
.200
.373
.111
.105
.066
.550

$0,320
.469
.736
.580
.456
.510
.691
.411
.389
.310
.550

962.022

Total

26.250
64.007
70.128
175.862
53.959
23.529
32.400
16.200
16.200
12.756
32.400

7.275

.454

117.947
30.000
23.904
16.098
58.389
25.168
19.765
33.143
30.000
46.154
53.571
30.239
23.027
15.555
22.154
28.016
39.677
37.585
25.946
12.704
18.045
12.756
38.268
12.756

1.540
.140
.110
.110
.580
.250
.140
.290
.140
.500
.250
.430
.250
.070
.120
.240
.410
.360
.160
.130
.100
.089
.223
.197

.783
.280
.276
.410
.596
.596
.425
.525
.280
.650
.280
.853
.651
.270
.325
.514
.620
.576
.370
.614
.333
.419
. 350
.927

770.867

6.829

.532

35.377
156.338
113.938
31.034
13.701
79.639
45.455
32.689
63.830
12.756
25.512
12.756
12.756
12.756
12.756
12.756

.250
1.850
2.000
.500
.150
.140
.500
.250
.310
.500
.117
.187
.096
.064
.072
.119
.236

.424
.710
.300
.263
.290
.613
.377
.330
.569
.470
.550
.440
.452
.301
.339
.560
1.110

1,007.382

7.341

.437

61.047

.474

228.57
93.74
85.56
34.12
111.20
255.00
185.19
370.37
370.37
470.37
185.18

50.87
200.00
251.00
372.72
102.76
238.40
303.56
181.03
200.00
130.00
112.00
198.42
260.56
385.73

27a8
3

214.16
151.22
159.64
231.25
472.29
332.50

47a3
7
156.79
470.37

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Put in sock linings..................................................................
Tree, hand................................................................................
Repair............. ........................................................................
Black edges...................... : ......................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Brush edges, heels and bottoms..........................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Make boxes and labels..........................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Cripple work................. ........................................................
Reclean shoes...........................................................................
Odd shoe work........................................................................
Stencil cases.............................................................................
Nail cases..................................................................................
Shipping labor.........................................................................
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total_____

____

Grand total

____ _




______

_

333.333

7,722.514

169.60
38.38
18.00
52.66
193.33
437.92
75.34
132.00
183.55
94.00
470.37
235.18
470.37
470.37
470.37
470.37
470.37

58

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 192S,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D IS T R IC T #
0.—Women’s Goodyear welt, black glazed kid, five-eye oxford, perforated outside
tip, lace stay, and top of quarter, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N 4 .

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

CU
TTIN - DEPARTMENT.
G
Sort stock____________ - __________________- _________
Cut outsides, hand-__ _ ______ ____________ ______ __
_
_ ___
Cut trimmings, hand
. r_ _ ...

Hourly
wages.

30.000
480.000
240.000
30.000
50.000
18fi 000
40.000
35.000
7a ooo
25.000
40.000
12a ooo

$0,370
7.000
2.600
.400
.550
2.130
.270
.270
.920
.200
.200
1.500

$0,740
.875
.650
.800
.660
.710
.405
.463
.789
.480
.306
.750

___

1,340.000

16.410

.735

STITCH G DEPARTMENT.
IN
Open up work
_____T . _
„
____ _____
Pastes vamp linings . T._ . . .
.
_
_ _
TW
falre linings _______ .__ _________________________
ffiORft tops and stay bank seam _
_ __ _
Stitnta and stay bank vamp line
__ __
Fold quarters,"Vamps, tips
_ _
_ _ _ ___
Fancy stitch oohar and lace stay on quarters
T,
.......
_ _ _
Sort and ease ,r ___ _
Support stays___________________ _____ ____________
Stitch edgOS (linings and quarters together)
Hyelat
_ .... . .
Vamp
____ . _ .
lnng line toe seam
........
.. .
Tier and lace . . .
. . _
Inspect. and trim......
_____
Organization mad general- work

20.000
25.000
195.000
120.000
90.000
300.000
270.000
75.000
O «A A
A
O WV
U D
180.000
35.000
34a 000
150.000
93.000
260.000
400.000

.125
.250
1.950
.910
.710
2.800
3.150
.500
.500
2.500
.400
4.550
1.500
.510
1.500
3.660

.375
.600
.600
.455
.473
.560
.706
.400
.375
.833
.686
.803
.660
.329
.450
.549

2,573.000

25.515

.595

84.111
110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.545
.461

40.000
30.000
25.000
40.000
45.000
40.000
40.000
35.000
30.000
40.000
35.000
80.000

.500
.250
.200
.450
.220
.180
.190
. .170
.170
.300
.180
.830

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

Cut tne linings, hand

______

Stamp quarter linings *
...
Stamp nntsWlftfi_______ ________________________ ___
gkiw*
_________
Out anck linings, yokes, etc
_ .
Assamhie work for fitting room .... (
r»rg^»i7.^t.inn and general work______ I __________ __
Total

Total

.,

......

_

_

______

....

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Antonies, leather1
_
Insoles, leather 1. _
Counters, leather 1 . .
_ ._
■ ot toes, leather *
R
_ ____ __ ....
Heels, leather, 8/81
.
__
........ .

.

Stock fitting:
Sort stock
.
.
.
.
_ _
_
Round ontsoles
._
. . . . .
Round insoles. . . .
.
_ .
_
Channel insoles________________________________
Stitch insoles. _.
„T.
T
____ _ . .. .
Fuck gem. machine . .
_
_ _
Reinforce in so le s.___
________
______
Form in toe of insole__
. ....
...
Stamp work _
^
.
..... ..
_____
_ ... . ...
_
Shank ontsoles.. _ . ___
Lay up cases
....... . _. r ,
Organization and general work

......... .

_.

480.000

3.640

.150
.200
7.500
1.850
3.700
1.000

.450
.480
.938
.925
1.233
.750

Total_______________ ________________

,

905.000

14.400

.955

150.00
200.00
m oo
150.00
133.33
150.08
150.00
171.43
200.00
150.00
171.43
75.00

.490

20.000
25.000
480.000
120.000
180.000
80.000

300.00
m oo
30.77
50.00
66.67
20.00
22.22
80:00
75.00
33.33
171.43
17.65
40.00
64.52
30.00
15.00

.455

11.201

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Get out lasts
_ ^ __ r.
Tack insoles. _
___ . .................... r
........
Assemble for pull-over machine and side last, hand........
Pull over, machine. _
...
r _______
Operate bed machine........................ ........... .......................
Organization and general work
.........

*

.750
.500 1
.480
.675
.293
.270
.285
.291
.340
.450
.309
.623

1,370.397

Totsd________________________________________
Total, sola-leather department _

200.00
12:50
25.00
200.00
120.00
33133
15a oo
171.43
85.71
240.00
150. od
50.00

300.00
240.00
12.50
50.00
33.33
76.00
s ... g - s a
i1

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




ESTABLISHMENT NO.

59

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION-Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C m S T R I C T — Continued.
< .—Women's Goodyear welt, black glazed kid, five-eye oxford, perforated outside
9
tip, lace stay, and top of quarter, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .
t.

.....................................................................................................................................................................

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs,

Department and operation.

BOTTOM
ING DEPARTMENT.
Trim uppers...........................................................................
Staple uppers...........................................................................
Pull tacks............................. ........................- ......................
Goodyear welt...................- ................. .............. ...................
Pull bottom tacks...................................................................
Trim inseams . ....................._..................................................
Beat out welts............................................ — .......................
Put in shanks..........................................................................
Fill bottoms............................................................................
Cement soles.............................................................................
Cement bottoms............................................. - .....................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Rough round............................... ....................... ...................
Turn up channels..........................................- .......................
Goodyear stitch................ .....................................................
Cement channels.................... ................................................
Lay leaf....................................................................................
Pound shanks..................... ...................................................
T^v^i
_ _ _____________________________________
Sort work (after leveling)......................................................
Heel...........................................................................................
Nail seats.................................................................................
Rough round heel seats................................... ....................

Hourly
wages.

Total

10.330
.300
.370
2.250
.370
.600
.500
.250
.300
.150
.150
.750
1.250
.200
2.400
.160
.200
.400
.880
.350
1.150
.250
.200
.350
1.000
.400
2.750
.500
1.100

10.660
.600
.740
1.125
.740
.600
.606
.333
.400
.257
.257
.750
1.364
.343
1.108
.320
.400
.600
.754
.840
1.150
.500
.400
.600
1.200
.600
1.031
1.000
1.650

1,460.000

Trim heels..........................— .......................- .......................
Breast heels.
...............- ....................................................
Trim edges......... ................... - .....................—.......................
Joint heels................................................................................
Organization and general work-------------------------------------

30.000
30.000
30.000
120.000
30.000
60.000
5a ooo
45.000
45.000
35.000
35.000
60.000
55.000
35.000
130.000
30.000
30.000
40.000
70.000
25.000
60.000
30.000
30.000
35.000
50.000
40.000
160.000
30.000
40.000

19.860

.816

50.000
100.000
210.000
20.000
30.000
60.000
65.000
45.000
75.000
25.000
45.000
25.000
40.000
35.000
20.000
220.000

.500
1.800
3.500
.360
.420
.000
.900
.400
1.500
.250
.750
.150
.200
.400
.150
2.430

.600
1.080
1.000
1.080
.840
.600
.831
.533
1.200
.600
1.000
.360
.300
.686
.450
.663

1,065.000

14.310

.806

50.000
180.000
50.000
120.000
60.000
75.000
60.000
20.000
30.000
135.000

.350
1.500
.400
.850
.300
.750
.400
.170
.500
.950

.420
.500
.480
.425
.300
.600
.400
.510
1.000
.422

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

200.00
200.00
200; 00
50.00
200,00
ioooo

12000
133.33
133.33
171.43
171.43
100.00
109.09
171.43
46.15
200.00
200 00
150.00
85 71
240 00
100.00
200.00
200.00
171.43
120.00
15000
37.50
200.00
150 00

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Scour heel breasts...................................................................
Scour heels............................................... .......... .....................
Set edges.....................................................- ............................
Ink heels............ ................. ..................... ..............................
Roll heels.................................................................................
Buff bottoms..........................................................................
Naumkeag................................................................................
Ink bottoms............................................................................
Finish bottoms......................................................................
Wheel seats................. ....................................... ....................
Burnish heels................................................... ......................
Wheel........................................................................................
Clean.........................................................................................
Pull lasts................................................. ...............................
Put away lasts........................................................................
Organization and general work............................................
Total

_______ . . . .

_______

120.00
60.00
28.57
300.00
200.00
100.00
92.31
133.33
80 00
240.00
133.33
240.00
15000
171.43
300.00
27.27

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Sock linings........ ....................................................................
Clean and iron by hand.........................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Cobble............... - ...........................................- .......................
Inspect....................................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Stamp cartons--.......................................... - .........................
Organization and general work............................................
Total

______________________ 1 ______________

Grand total




.... _

780.000

6.170

.475

9,493.397

107.866

.682

120.00
33.33
12000
5000

m oo
80 00
ioooo

30000
200.00
44.44

60

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATIO N —Continued-.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 7 . —

Women’s Goodyear welt, tan calf, lace oxford, with tip, leather sole, 8/8 leather
heel base with rubber top lift.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUMING DEPARTMENT.

Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand.......................................
Cut linings, hand _
_
Cut trimmings, hand
_
_____
_______
__ _
_ ___ _ _
Skive uppers
Mark for"perforations_ ___
_ __
Perforate tips
_ ___ „__
Perforate vamps and foxings _
_____ ___
General w o r k _
7
__ _
___. . . . .....
Organization___ _ . _ _
_ _ ____
......

720.000
72.000
150.000
65.000
60.000
60.000
210.000
6a ooo
m ooo

Total.........*.....................................................................

iaooo
.600
1.125
.550
.225
.300
.788
.300
1.000

$0,500
.560
.450
.508
.225
.300
.225
.300
.500

1,517.000

,

& 33
83 33
4<X00
92.31
ioaoo
100.00
28.57
100.00
50.00

ia888

.439

Join................................................................... .........................
Make linings _ _ _ _ _ _
_____ ____
Rnhseams.__
. . . ___ ___
Stay seams
. __
_____
....................
Cement
Fold_______________ _
•_
Close tops___
r.
Pinking vamps and foxings
____ __
Backstay
Stitch tops
_____
Eyelet _
___ •.
_
Bar
.
_ _
Vamp .
...... _
Toe u p ______ _ _ _
_ : _________
Lace. _
________
Sort and tie up
__ __________ ___ _
General work.
_ _
llirT
.
Organization___
„
. . . . . ________

70.000
105.000

.400
.525

.343
.300

25.000
s a ooo
3 a ooo
60.000
60.000
285.000
60.000
90.000
40.000
90.000
27a 000
90.000
45.000
e a ooo
80.000
80.000

.108
.215
.200
.500
.500
.300
.565
.220
.338
1.600
.450
.248
.225
.500
1.570

.259
.258
.400
.500
.500
.303
.300
.377
.330
.225
.356
.300
.331
.225
.375
1.178

Total...............................................................................

1,590.000

9.904

.373

15.000
3 a ooo

.125
.213
.073
.083
.025

.500
.426
.438
.498
.300

70.000

.519

.445

15.000
15.000
10.000
5.000

.125
.075

.500

400.00

.300

.050
.025

.300
.300

400.00
600.00
1,200.00

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

1.440

85.71
57.14
24a 00
12a oo
200.00
100.00
100.00
21.05
100.00
66.67
150.00
66.67
22.22
66.67
133.33
100.00
75.00
75.00

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
________ _ ,,
Strip leather _ __
_ T
-Cut
_
_ _________ _
Skive and grade
_____
_____
Sort—
_ __ ___ ..... _
Case_______ ; ______ ________________ ________ ____
Total...............................................................................
Insoles:
Strip leather......................................................................
Cut—
___ ____ _
Sort—
_____
_
r
Case.................................... ..............................................
Total_____________________
____
Counters, leather1______________
Box toes, leather1
Heels, leather, 8 /8 1______________

_
___
_ _____ ____ _

Stock fitting:
Get out outsoles. ___________ ______
____ llT
1,, ,
Shank outsoles
__
Cement outsoles __
_ _________
....
Temper outsoles
_______
Channel insoles............_.................................................
Clip insoles____ ___
__
______
Stamp insoles
__
____
Cement insoles
Form soles.—
. . . ___________
Reenforce soles
___________
Tie up insoles
_ _
i _________ _
Organization.:________ : _____
___ _ _______
Total_____T
__________________________
Total, sole-leather department _________ T .

1These are purchased.
sentative establishments.




10.000
10.000
5.000

45.000

.275
1.314
1.033
3.253

.496

10.000

405.000

.083
.125
.125
.050
.238
.042
.042
.063
.104
.625
.063
.667
2.227

.498
.300
.300
.300
.476
.252
.252
.252
.250
.250
.252
.560
.330

..1,215.882

8.621

600.00.
600.00
1,200.00

.367

158.915
113.788
423.179

400.00
2oaoo

.425

25.000
25.000
ia o o o
3 a ooo
ia o o o

10.000
15.000
25.000
15a ooo
15.000
s a ooo

.545

.461
600.00
24a 00
24a 00
600.00
260.00

600.00
600.00
400.00
240.00
40.00
400.00
75.00

The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
Seepp 132-140.

ESTABLISHMENT NO. *7.

61

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o

D I S T R I C T — Continued.

7.—Women’s Goodyear welt, tan calf, lace oxford, with tip, leather sole, 8/8 leather
heel base with rubber top lift— Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Get up lasts...................................
Tack on insoles............................
Get out counters..........................
Assemble for pull-over machine.
Pull over, machine......................
Side last, machine.......................
Operate bed machine. ............
Organization.................................

15.000
20.000
5.000
120.000
120.000
120.000
120.000
40.000

$0,063
.083
.021
.750
1.250
1.250
1.250
.333

$0.252
.249
.252
.375
.625
.625
.625
.500

Total....................................

560.000

5.000

.536

30.000
30.000
30.000
30.000
120.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
30.000
15.000
80.000
80.000
80.000
190.000
30.000
30.000
95.000
50.000
30.000
120.000
120.000
60.000
30.000
30.000
150.000
60.000
40.000

.333
.333
.333
‘ .250
1.000
.250
.250
.225
.225
.250
.250
.225
.063
.600
.750
.290
1.650
.125
.215
.743
.300
.150
.600
.650
.567
.283
.200
1.500
.400
.333

.666
.666
.666
.500
.500
.250
.250
.225
.225
.250
.250
.450
.252
.450
.563
.218
.521
.250
.430
.469
.360
.300
.300
.325
.567
.566
.400
.600
.400
.500

1,920.000

13.343

.418

Scour breasts.............................................................
Scour heels.................................................................
Ink and set edges.....................................................
Ink heels.....................................................................
Brush edges...............................................................
Burnish heels............................................................
Buff.............................................................................
Naumkeag................... - ............................................
Finish.........................................................................
Pull lasts..................................................................
Organization..............................................................

60.000
120.000
240.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
120.000
40.000
80.000
100.000
40.000

.400
.850
1.900
.400
.325
.325
.800
.267
.533
.500
.333

.400
.425
.475
.400
.325
.325
.400
.401
.400
.300
.500

Total................................................................

980.000

6.633

.406

17.000
20.000
80.000
180.000
80.000
400.000
300.000

.085
.100
.333
2.500
.333
1.723
1.667

.300
.300
.250
.833
.250
.259
.333

400.00
300.00
1,200.00
50.00
50.00
50.00
50.00
150.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Staple..................................
Pull tacks....................... .
Trim uppers......................
Put on covers....................
Inseam (Goodyear welt)
Pull insole tacks.............. .
Trim insaams___________
Beat welts..........................
Tack in shanks................ .
Fill bottoms..................... .
Lay soles........................... .
Tack soles...................... .
Cement soles.....................
Rough round....................
Rough edges......................
Open channels................. .
Goodyear stitch............... .
Cement channels..............
Lay channels.....................
Level............ .....................
Nail heel seats. ...............
Trim heel seats................
Help heeler. .................
Trim heels...
Breast heels..
Align heels...
Trim edges...
Make points .
Organization.
Total..

200.00 ,
200.00
200.00
200.00
50.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
200.00
400.00
75.00 s
75.00*
75.00
31.58
200.00
200.00
63.10
120.00
200.00
50.00
50.00
100.00
200.00
200.00
40.00
100.00
150.00

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

100.00
50.00
25.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
50.00
150.00
75.00
60.00
150.00

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Stamp soles................................................................
Sort..............................................................................
Sock linings..............................................................
Tree, hand........................................ ^.......................
Dress.. .......................................................................
Crayon patent leathers............................................
Bull tips............... : ....................................................

84791°— 24t----- 5




352.94
300.00
75.00
33.33
75.00
15.00
20.00

62

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF M PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
X)
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued
E s ta b lis h m e n t

No. 7.—Women's Goodyear welt, tan call, lace oxford, with tip, leather sole,
heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

SIS

leather

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Repair patent leathers. _____________ . . . ____________
Patent leather flowers.......................................................
Brush.................................................................................
Stamp sock linings............ - ..............................................
Pound uppers....................................................................
Stamp cartons.................................................................
Crown................................................ *.............................
B ack ..................................... ...........................................
General work (shipping)...................................................
Organization.................................................. - .................
Total........................................................................

G 'tpfel
rand

_ T

600.000
60.000
50.000
45.000
20.000
25.000
10.000
300.000
75.000
120.000
120.000
75.000

$3,000
.300
.188
.225
.100
.093
.050
1.375
.385
.593
.727
.420

$0,300
.300
.226
.300
.300
.223
.300
.275
.308
.297
.364
.336

2. 577.000

14.199

.331

10,359.882

68.588

iaoo
moo
10 0
2 .0

.397

133.33
300.00

24a0
0
600.00
20.00
80.00
50.00
50.00
80.00

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 1 .—Women’s

Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather
insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Stamp size on outsides--------------------------1Cut feather quarter linings, hand___ _
Cut doth vamp linings, band...................
Cut doth vamp doubler, hand.................
Stamp size on quarter linings....................
Stamp size on vamp linings.......................
Stamp stock No. on toe linings............
Skive vamps.................................................
Skive toes........... - ........................................
Skive tips.......................................................
Skive tops and front of quarters...............
Skive shank of quarters........ ............. —
Skive back seam of quarters.....................
Skive edges and bottom of tongues.........
Perforate circular vamps...........................
Perforate regular tips..................................
Perforate front of quarters............... ..........
Assemble...................................................
Dink trimmings...........................................
Cut cripples..................................................
Operate elevators.............. .........................
Sweep.............................................................
Organization............... ........... ................

72.000
72.000
400.000
72.000
14.000
140.000
32.000
16.000
7.000
15.000
8.000
23.000
13.000
12.000
34.000
46.000
20.000
16.000
75.000
75.000
41.000
36.000
108.000
36.000
36.000
72.000
36.000

$0,590
.310
4.050
.720
.083
.960
.300
.150
.038
.083
.045
.150
.090
.083
.225
.300
.135
.120
.390
.390
.225
.225
.375
.375
.160
.320
.740

• $0,492
.258
.608
.600
.356
.411
.563
.563
.326
.332
.338
.391
.415
.415
.397
.391
.405
.450
.312
.312
.329
.375
.208
.625
.267
.267
1.233

Total...................................................

,527.000

11.632

.457

28.000
29.000
24.000
24.000
108.000
100.000
65.000
32.000
48.000
48.000
36.000
48.000
115.000
58.000
70.000
178.000

.180
.195
.105
.105
.660
.600
.390
.195
.195
.195
.110
.195
.600
.360
.420
1.200

.386
.403
.263
.263
.367
.360
.360
.366
.244
.244
.183
,244
.313
.372
.360
.405

Stock-room work................. - - - I ............................
Selecting patterns for cutters...............................
Cut vamps, quarters, tips, and tongues, hand.

83.33
83.33
15.00
83.33
428.57
42.86
187.50
375.00
857.14
400.00
750.00
260.87
461.54
500.00
176.47
130.43
300.00
375.00
80.00
80.00
146.34
16a 67
55.56
16a 67
166.67
83.33
166.67

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Close back seam of quarters...................... .
Close back seam of leather quarter linings.
Rub back seam of quarters.......................... .
Rub back seam of leather quarter linings..
Stitch toe linings to quarter linings.............
Stitch hold fast to quarter linings............... .
Stitch tongue to toe linings........................ ..
Stay back seam of quarters................... ; ___
Cement vamp doubler to vamps............... .
Cement top and front of quarters................
Back up work................................................. .
Cement cloth eyelet stays to lining...........
Fold top and front of quarters......................
Stitch tips to vamps............... .................... .
Stitch perforated eyelet rows........................
Stitch tops..— . . . . . _________ ___________




214.29
206.90
250.00
250.00
55.56
60.00
92131
187.50
12a 00
12a 00
166.67
125.00
52.17
103.45
85.71
33.71

ESTABLISHMENT NO. U .

63

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued.
^ E sta b lish m e n t N o . 1 1 .—Women’s

Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather
insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

8TITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
•F.Ytra for pnttmg i™ynkas
.............
___
Trim quarters..!__ ____ __ ,_________________ _______
Rtftin quarters _
___________^___________ ____ _
Set eyelets________________________________ - _______
Stitch tongue linings to tongues_____________________
Vamp___: _______ : ________________________________
Tack (barring)_____________________________________
Lace ______ ______ ________ __ ______ _____________
Pack and inspect . . ,
___
General instructor____ _ _______ , ____ ________ __ _
_
_
Work on damaged parts
Sweep_______ I__ I________________________________
Organization_ ..... ... .. . _
_
_________

17.000
72.000
30.000
52.000
70.000
262.000
38.000
38.000
36.000
288.000
108.000
36.000
36.000

$0,120
.300
.135
.360
.480
2.100
.180
.180
.165
2.640
.435
.115
.650

$0,424
.250
.270
.415
.411
.481
.284
. 284
.275
.550
.242
.192
1.083

Total........................................................................

2,094.000

13.565

.389

84. I ll
110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.545
.461

12.000
18.000
12.000
35.000
8.000
40.000

.053
.150
.053
.330
.030
.225

.265
.500
.J265
.506
.225
.338

.352.94
83.33
200.00
115.38
85.71
22.90
157.89
157.89
166.67
20.83
55.56
166.67
166.67

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles, leather1__________________________________
Insoles, leather1__________ _________________________
Dountete, leather1__ _
_
_ _ __
B oy toes, leather i „
n
Heels, women’s, 8/81.......... .................. - .........................
Stock fitting:
Wet UP insoles
..... _ .
.
Rouna insoles__________________ „______________
Stamp size on insoles___________________________
Channel insoles
plash shank insoles ...
_
Turn up lip on insoles_______ ___________________
Recase insoles_________________ ___ _______ _____
Wet np, skivA, and teg outsoles
_ __
_
Stamp size on outsoles_______________ _ _________
Skive shank of outsole__________________ __________
Split, cement, and stick outsoles_________________
Cement outsoles for sole layer_______ ____________
Recase outsoles.______________- _________________
Sort.............................................................................
flaw np heels . . _ _n
General help.. _________________________________
Tie up insoles__________________________________
Sweep
......
Organization
_ _
Total

,

_

______________________

6.000
10.000
12.000
11.500
27.000
26.000
6.000
36.000
36.000
36.000
36.000
36.000
36.000

.038
.075
.053
.090
.210
.150
. 038
.345
.185
.313
.150
.160
.540

.380
.450
.265
.470
.467
.346
.380
.575
.308
.522
.250
.267
.900

439. 500

3.188
10.749

.485

36.000
25.000
19.000
44.000
Trim heel seats of insoles______________________________
14.000
Get up counters and box toes_____________ ____ ______
13.000
Assemble for pull-over machine_______________________
120.000
Pull over, machine
_
_
* 106.000
Side last
108.000
Last heel and toe,. _ _____ ___ _____________
200.000
Inspect_______________________________________________
72.000
36.000
Odd shoe work____________________________________
18.000
Sweep_____ _______________________________________
Organization „„
36.000

.120
.210
.075
.315
.090
.075
.900
1.080
1.080
2.040
.625
.100
.080
.630

.200
.504
.237
.430
.386
.346
.450
.611
.612
.521
.167
.267
1.050

7.420

166.67
166.67
166.67
166.67
166.67

.435

1,329.897

500.00
333.33
500.00
171.43
750.00
150.00
1000.00
600.00
500.00
521.74
222.22
230.77
1,000.00
166.67

.527

Total, sole-leather department_________________

___ _

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Supervise last bind _
Oat ” P and dump lasts
_ .
Paint toe and heel of last
Tack insoles „ ............
,

Total , * ...^ „ ,. ,

_ — , ____

845.000

1 -^ - ...... ~
-=

. Gil

166.67
240.00
315.79
136.36
428.57
461.54
50,00
56.60
56.60
30.00
83.33
166.67
333.33
166.67

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-110.




64

T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR IC T.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923.
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued.
Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bid. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather
insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 1 .—

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

BOTTOM
ING DEPARTMENT.
Trim uppers............................................................................
Staple uppers...........................................................................
Puh tacks.................................................................................
Goodyear welt.............................................. .........................
Pull insole tacks......................................................................
Trim inseams..........................................................................
Butt and tack welts...............................................................
Beat out welts................... ....................................................
Put in shanks..........................................................................
Fill bottoms.............................................................................
Cement bottoms............... .....................................................
Lay soles..................................................................................
Rough round...........................................................................
Turn up channels...................................................................
Trim out shanks of soles.......................................................
Goodyear stitch......................................................................
Pound shank of sole to uppers............................................
Cement channels....................................................................
Lay channels...........................................................................
Level.........................................................................................
Loose nail.................................................................................
Rough round heel seats........................................................
Heel base for rubber top.............................. ........................
Heel rubber top, machine.....................................................
Shave heels............................ .................................................
Breast heels..............................................................................
Trim edges. ...........................................................................
Make joints..............................................................................
Put on heel filler...................................... .............................
Cobble.......................................................................................
Odd shoe work........................................................................
Inspect.....................................................................................
General help...........................................................................
Sweep. .....................................................................................
Organization........................................................... ...............
Total

_________________________________________

Hourly
wages.

33.000
55.000
95.000
135.600
43.000
54.000
69.000
47.000
35.000
45.000
30.000
54.000
58.000
32.000
32.000
161.000
30.000
35.000
45.000
71.000
41.000
26.000
40.000
42.000
36.000
30.000
160.000
51.000
19.000
36.000
36.000
36.000
72.000
18.000
72.000

$0,195
.300
.540
1.380
.165
.390
.420
.270
.150
.270
.135
.390
.600
.165
.195
1.650
.210
.165
.240
.540
.240
.150
.540
.600
.330
.240
1.620
.390
.090
.270
.180
.310
.290
.080
1.110

$0,355
.327
.341
.613
.230
.433
.365
.345
.257
.360
.270
.433
.621
.309
.366
.615
.420
.283
.320
.456
.351
.346
.810
.857
.550
.480
.608
.459
.284
.450
.300
.517
.242
.267
.925

1,874.000

14.810

.474

65.000
38.000
162.000
24.000
46.000
18.000
72.000
92.000
72.000
25.000
140.000
46.000
65.000
52.000
20.000
36.000
36.000
18.000
36.000

.540
.195
1.650
.210
.270
.150
.600
.780
.600
.135
.720
.390
.270
.360
.105
.180
.160
.080
.540

.498
.308
.611
.525
.352
.500
.500
.509
.500
.324
.309
.509
.249
.415
.315
.300
.267
.267
.900

1,063.000

7.935

.448

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

181.82
109.09
63.16
44.44
139.53
111. 11
86.96
127.66
171.43
133.33
200.00
111. 11
103.45
187.50
187.50
37.27
200.00
171.43
133.33
84.51
146.34
23ft 77
150.00
142.86
166.67
200.00
37.50
117.65
315.79
166.67
166.67
166.67
83.33
333.33
83.33

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour heels...............................................................................
Scour breasts ..........................................................................
Set edges................................................................................
Rescour heels...........................................................................
Scour edge of rubber heels...................................................
Stain heel edges................................. ....................................
Burnish heels..........................................................................
Buff bottoms...........................................................................
Naumkeag foreparts and shanks........................................
Bleach bottoms.......................................................................
Paint foreparts and shanks.................................................
Burnish and roll bottoms. ...................................................
Cleaning rubber heels...........................................................
Pull la sts...............................................................................
Stamp monograms on bottoms............................................
Stamp shanks..........................................................................
General help............................................................................
Sweep. .................................... ................................. ..............
Organization............................................................................
Total

_




____ ________ r____
*

___

92.31
157.89
37.04
250.00
130.43
333.33
83.33
65.22
83.33
240.00
42.86
130.43
92.31
115.38
300.00
166.67
166.67
333.33
166.67

65

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 12,

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued.
Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather
insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Concluded.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 1 .—

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Inspect for insole tacks________________________________
Put in heel piece______________________________________
Brush around edge of sole stitches_____________________
8 i7 .A n n t f o r tr A A S , p .
t.p
_
_
C 1 « a n A r ig a s

_

_

_

_

Tree, machine_______________________________________
Brush to a bright finish_______________________________
Brush to a bright finish, second time__________________
Brush heels, edges, and b ottom s.____________________
Dress u ppers.__ _____________________________________
Put on second coat of filler____________________________
Lace_____ ____________________ ______ ________________
Label cartons_________________ ________ _____ ________
Pack________________________________________ ________
Inspect.,____________________________________________
Seal and stencil_______________________________________
O dd

shr>A

w ork

_

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.. . _

Odd jobs_______ ______________________________________
Operate elevators_____________________________________
Repair_______________________________________________
Ship...........................................................................................
,
. .
.
O r g a n i z a t i o n ___ . .

25.000
22.000
34.000
12.000
42.000
220.00
40.000
54.000
34.000
58.000
40.000
50.000
26.000
40.000
72.000
36.000
36.000
36.000
36.000
360.000
36.000
36.000

$0.165
.120
.180
.053
.360
1.830
.270
.360
.225
.300
.210
.225
.120
.210
.600
.225
.140
.110
.150
2.880
.440
.580

$0,396
.327
.318
.265
.514
.499
.405
.400
.397
.310
.315
.270
.277
.315
.500
.375
.233
.183
.250
.480
.733
.967

Total..............................................................................

1,345.000

9.753

.435

Grand total________ _____ ______________________

10,077.897

75.864

240.00
272.73
176.47
500.00
142.86
27.27
150.00
111. 11
176.47
103.45
150.00
120.00
230.77
150.00
83.33
166.67
166.67
166.67
166.67
16.67
166.67
166.67

.452

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 2 .—Women’s

McKay, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole,
natural finish, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Stock-room work...................................................................
Selecting patterns for cutters..............................................
Cut vamps, quarters, tips, and tongues, hand...............
Stamp sizes on outsides.........................................................
Cut leather quarter linings, hand................... - .................
Cut cloth toe linings, hand..................................................
Cut cloth vamp doublers, hand..........................................
Stamp size on leather quarter linings.................................
Stamp size on cloth toe linings............................................
Stamp stock No. on toe linings...........................................
Skive raw vamps....................................................................
Skive toes of cut off vamps..................................................
Skive tips............... ..................................................................
Skive top and front of quarters............................................
Skive shank of quarters,.......................................................
Skive back seam of quarters................................................
Skive edge and bottom of tongues.......................................
Perforate circular vamps.......................................................
Perforate regular tips.............................................................
Perforate front of quarters....................................................
Back up work.........................................................................
Dink trimmings......................................................................
Cut cripples.............................................................................
Operate elevators....................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization...........................................................................
Tntal____




_________________________________

32.000
32.000
337.000
48.000
13.000
150.000
30.000
15.000
5.000
12.000
6.000
22.000
13.000
10.000
35.000
25.000
22.000
10.000
60.000
13.000
35.000
16.000
64.000
24.000
16.000
32.000
16.000

$0,265
.133
3.540
.470
.083
.900
.270
.135
.030
.075
.038
.135
.083
.060
.210
.150
.135
.060
.360
.083
.210
.065
.275
.250
.080
.140
.240

$0,497
.249
.630
.588
.383
.360
.540
.540
.360
.375
.380
.368
.383
.360
.360
.360
.368
.360
.360
.383
.360
.244
.258
.625
.300
.263
.900

1,093.000

8.475

.465

187.50
187.50
17.80
125.00
461.54
40.00
200.00
400.00
1,200.00
500.00
1,000.00
272.73
461.54
600.00
171.43
240.00
272.73
600.00
100.00
461.54
171.43
375.00
93.75
250.00
375.00
187.50
375.00

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— 43EN TBAL A T L A N T IC D ISTR ICT.
TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 160 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E tio M tilm e n t N o .

7J.—Women's McKay, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole, nat­
ural finish, 3/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Cwatimied.
..........

Department andoperation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

26.000
24.000
28.000
26.000
100. O O
P
72.000
55.000
30.000
37.000
41.000
37.000
90.000
50.000
75.000
162.000
18.000
33.000
37.000
59.000
30.000
224.000
45.000
33.000
36.000
16.000
96.000
64.000
16.000
16.000

$0,165
.150
. 115
.106
.600
.435
.330
.180
.150
.165
.150
.540
.300
.375
1.080
.120
.135
.150
.390
.180
1.680
.180
.135
.143
.140
1.050
.310
.055
.260

00.381:
.375
.240;
,242
.360
.362
.360
.360
.243
.241
.243
.360
.360
.300
.400
.400
.245 •
.243
.397
.360
.450
.240
.245
.238
.525
.056
.291
.208
.975

1,576.000 !

0.708

.372

Outsoles, leather1________. . . . _____ ......
Insoles, leather1................ — ............. .—
Counters, leather1-----------. . . ______ . . . . . . .
Bos toes, leather1............. .............................
Beds, leather, 8 /8 1.......... .............................

84.111
116.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496 __ _____
. 545
.461

Stock fitting:
Wet up, Strive, and roll outsoles__ . . . .
Stamp size on outsoles.............. . . . . . . .
Round outsoles................................. .....
Channel _________ ________ ____. . . . . . .
Feather edge............... ............................
Turn up channels on outsoles........ .....
Mold outsoles............... ..........................
Black or tan soles...... .................
Put antisqueak on outsoles................... .
Round insoles........... ....................
Dip insoles...............................................
Inspect......................... ............................
Odd shoe work......... ........................ .
Sort.............................................................
Dink........................... ...............-----------Get up outsole sto c k ................ ...........
Sweep............................ ..........................
General porter work.................... .........
•Organization............... ............................

20.000
9.000
20.000
22.000
18.000
24.000
12.000
15.000
10.000
16.000
12.000
16.000
16.000
32.000
16.000
16.000
16.000
16.000
16.000

Close back seam of quarters________ ___. . .
Close back -seam of leather quarter linings.
Rub back seam of quartern............................
Rub back seam of leather quarter linings..
SttUdi toe lining to quarter linings----------giifcdh hold-fast to quarter linings----- —
s titch tongue to toe linings...........................
-Stay back seam of quarters-........................
Cement vamp doubler to vamps-------------Cement top «nd front of quarters------- .....
Cement cloth -eyelet stay to linings............
Fold top and front of quarters..............—
Jftftdh tip to vamps..............................- ........
£t&c£i perforated eyelet rows................—
St&ch tops— —....................................... ........
ExJra for putting in yokes.................. ........
Trim quarters. . ..................
.
Btain quarters. ...............................................
get eyelets........ ....................................... ........
gtijtdh tongue.linings to tongues........ ..... . . .
Vamp......................................- ........................
Tack (barring)............... ................................
Lace.............— ---------------------------------------Pack and inspect_____________
—
Selecting quality............... .............................
General instructor.........................................
Work on damaged parts................................
Organization..

Total—
„

28ft 77

moo

21429
230.77

moo

88.33
m ®9

mm

162.16
146.34
162.16
06.67
12ft 00
8ft 00
37.04
333.33
181.82
162.16
301.69
200.60
26.79
183.33
181.82
166.67
375.00
62.50
93.75
375.00
375.00

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

.120
.038
.165
.195
.135
.120
.090
.060
.075
.135
.053
. 110.
.065'
.300
.115
.110
.055
.065
.230

.360
.253;
.495
.532
.450
.300
.450
.240
.237
.506
,265
.413
.244
.563
.431
.413
.206
,244
.863

T otal................................................. ....

331.000

2.236

.405

Total, sole-leather department____ _

i , 221.397

8.797

.481

300.00
666.67
300.00
272.73
333.33
250.00
500.00
400.00
315.79
375.00
500.00
375.60
375.00
187.50
375.00
375.00
375.00
375.00
375.00

V" 11
1
1

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140..




E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 12.

67

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women's McKay, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole,
natural finish, 3/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 2 .—

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pail’s Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

27.000
16.000
33.000
80.000

Hang uppers, case counters, etc.........
Stock-room work...............................
Tack insoles to last..............................
Assemble, indudes welting tips.........
Cement counters..................................
Wet sides of vamp..........................
Pull over, machine............................. .
Last cap and plain toe (no box)........
Tack in shanks and pull insole tacks.
Pound toes........................................... ..
Lay soles.................. .............. ...............
Pull lasts___________________________
Floor work________ _____ _________ _
Inspect................................ : .................
Iron toes.................................................
Odd shoe work............. .......................
Utility work....................................... .
Sweep......................................................
Organization................. ...................... .

17.000
71.000
180.000
60.000
72.000
136.000
39.000
16.000
48.000
32.000
16.000
16.000
16.000
16.000

Total....................... ....................

$0,225
.055
.225
.600
.075
.075
.750
1.860
.300
.263
.140
.340
.140
.060
.070
.065
.235

$0,500
.206
.409
.450
.450
.265
.634
.620
.300
.450
.450
.405
.525
.425
.263
.300
.263
.244
.881

901.000

7.058

.470

27.000
57.000
30.000
27.000
25.000
60.000
40.000
40.000
37.000
25.000
15.000
45.000
140.000
40.000
24.000
16.000
16.000
32.000

.165
.600
.150
.165
.150
.450
.540
.540
.330
.210
.075
.300
1.470
.300
.150
.065
.080
.440

367
632
300

696.000

6.180

533

27.000
16.000
36.000
27.000
17.000
94.000
15.000

.225
.068
.180
.225
.083
.990
.060

500
255
300
500
293
632
240
360
497
240
300
498
497
240

222.22

10.000

L. U iU

375.00
181.82
75.00
600.00
352.94
84.51
33.33

100.00

83.33
44.12
153.85
375.00
125.00
187.50
375.00
375.00
375.00
375.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Nail heel seats.................................
M cKay sew.......................................
Size out and cement channels____
Lay channels....................................
Fudge edges......................... ............
L evel.. .............................................
Heel, leather base______ _________
Heel, rubber top lift...................... .
Shave heels.......................................
Breast...............................................
Wipe off second last......... ________
Relast, includes getting out relast.
Trim edges........................................
Joint..................................................
Inspect............................................. .
Odd shoe work............... .................
Sweep................................................
Organization_____________ _____ _
Total.......................................

360
450
810
810
535
504
300
400
450
375
244
300
825

222.22

105.26

200.00

222.22
240.00
100.00

150.00
150.00
162.16
240.00
400. G
O
133.33
42.86
150.00
250.00
375.00
375.00
187.50

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour heels....................................................
Put on filler after scouring.........................
Scour breasts......................................... ......
Rescour heels...............................................
Brush rubber dust from edges of soles...
Set edges once (includes doping edges)..
Change shoes from partition to pin r& ck .
Black or stain heel edges........ ..................
Burnish heels........................ ......................
Inspect case numbers.................................
Prick heels........................... ........................
Buff bottoms................................................
Buff shanks..................................................
Bleach bottoms___________ __________ _
Clean uppers................................................
Stain.............................................................
Polish mahogany bottoms........................
Roll bottoms............................................. .
Pull lasts................................................... .
Odd shoe work.................... ......................
Inspect___‘........ ............................................
Sweep...... ...................................................
Finish................................... ........................
Total____




20.000

58.000
15.000
16.000
47.000
29.000
30.000

.120

.480
.080
.390
.240

.120
.210

25.000
58.000
43.000
31.000
32.000
32.000
16.000
16.000

.205

504
497
502
406
225
469
300
769

742.000

5.491

444

.480
.360

.210

.120
.250

222.22

375.00
166.67

222.22

852.94

400.00
300.00
103.45
400.00
375.00
127.66
206.90

200.00

142.86
240.00
103.45
139.53
193.55
187.50
187.50
375.00
375.00

68

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR IC T,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued.
Women’s McKay, whole quarter, bal, oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole,
natural finish, 3/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Concluded.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . I t . —

Department and operation.

Time cost
: of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Stamp mnnngrams _ . ..
_
_ .
Pnt in sock linings . ___ . . . . . . . .
Sort for treers______________________ ....________________
Tree, machine . . . L______ _ _ _
Dress ________________________________________________
Apply polish
, .
________
Brush to ft bright finish
____
__
Brush heels, edges, and bottoms
_. _ ___ ______
Trim threads____________ _ _______________________ _
Lace
_
__ __ _________________________
_
Stamp labels ,
___
L abel........................................................................................
Pack
_______ ____________ _______________________ - _
In sp ect_ - __________________________________________
_
Odd shoe work_______________________________________
General work _______________ ____________________ ___
Operate elevators,
........._ _ _ _ _
Seal for shipping______________________________________
Ship
_
_ __
__ _
_ _
__
Organisation
,

21.000
84.000
13.000
144.000
33.000
60.000
36.000
42.000
45.000
53.000
11.000
24.000
54.000
96.000
16.000
16.000
16.000
16.000
16.000
16.000

Total..............................................................................
Grand total___ _________________________________

Hourly
wages.

$0.105
.420
.053
1.200
.165
.300
.180
.210
.180
.210
.045
.120
.270
.610
.065
.065
.080
.080
.175
.250

$0,300
.300
.245
.500
.300
.300
.300
.300
.240
.238
.245
.300
.300
.381
.244
.244
.300
.300
.656
.938

812.000

4.783

.353

7,041.397

51.552

Number
of. pairs
worked on
per hour.

.439

285.71
71.43
461.54
41.67
181.82
100.00
166.67
142.86
133.33
113.21
545.45
250.00
111. 11
62.50
375.00
375.00
375.00
375.00
375.00
375.00

Women’s McKay, whole quarter, lace oxford, five eyelets, glazed kid, broad
vamp, plain toe, tan forepart, black shank, leather sole, 8/8 heel.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .—

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Sort and select leather................................
Put up jobs in stock room.........................
Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand............
Cut top linings, hand.................................
Cut top trimmings, hand..........................
Stamp............................................................
Skive>............................ ...............................
Perforate.- .1 ................................................
Odd shoe work.............................................
Operate elevators............................ ............
Organization.................................................

25.000
25.000
468.000
54.000
132.000
68.000
83.000
84.000
25.000
25.000
25.000

$0,390
.300
7.250
.650
1.380
.450
.830
.700
.130
.090
.860

$0,936
.720
.929
.722
.627
.397
.600
.500
.312
.216
2.064

Total....................................................

1,014.000

13.030

.771

156.000
35.000
36.000
18.000
228.000
80.000
44.000
35.000
34.000
21.000
21.000
162.000
96.000
44.000
300.000
72.000
25.000
32.000
21.000
70.000
134.000
75.000
42.000
25.000
25.000
12.500
25.000
25.000

1.100
.220
.250
.100
1.900
.400
.200
.200
.220
.120
.120
1.500
.550
.400
3.650
.500
.160
.210
.120
.400
.850
.700
.250
.160
.330
.090
.090
.500

1,893.500 |

15.290

240.00
240.00
12.82
111. 11
45.45
88.24
72.29
71.43
240.00
240.00
24a 00

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Make linings................................................
Close (first)...................................................
Stay................................................................
Cement...... ................................ . .................
Fold................................................................
Back............... —...........................................
Line vamps...................................................
Ink..................................................................
Insert lace or button stay..........................
Paste yokes...................................................
Match............................................................
Stitch edges..................................................
Trim ............................................................. .
Eyelet............................................................
Vamp.............................................................
Seam toes.................................................... .
Lace.............................................................. .
Bar................................................................ .
Sort and tie................................................. .
Line tongues.................................................
Stitch neverslips................... ..................... .
Stitch tips.....................................................
Inspect........................................................
Cobble..........................................................
Odd shoe work.......................................... .
Sweep...... .....................................................
Operate elevators........................................
Organization...............................................
Total....... ............. .....................




_

.423
.377
.417
.333
.500
.300
.273
.343
.388
.343
.343
.556
.344
.545
.730
.417
.384
.394
.343
.343
.381
.560
.357
.384
.792
.432
.216
1.200

38.46
171.43
166.67
■333.33
26.32
75.00
136.36
171.43
176.47
285.71
285.71
37.04
62.50
136.36
20.00
83.33
240.00
187.50
285.71
85.71
44.78
80.00
142.86
240.00
240.00
480.00
240.00
240.00

.484 |
.....................

69

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 16.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued.
Women’s McKay, whole quarter, lace oxford, five eyelets, glazed kid, broad,
vamp, plain toe, tan forepart, black shank, leather sole, 8/8 heel—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .—

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Ontsnles, leather l
_. r
Insoles, leather1
___________________________________
Counters, leather 1_________________________________
Top pieces, leather l___
B oy toes, leather C
.
......
Heels, leather 8/8 l
..
T . _
....
_

84. Ill
110.404
158.915
55.330
113.788
423.179

$0,892
1.069
1.314
.587
1.033
3.253

$0,637
.581
.496
.636
.545
.461

Stock fitting:
Round outsoles...........................................................
Round insoles.............................................................
Tack heel pieces (insole)............................................
Case outsoles..............................................................
Case insoles.................................................................
Trim seats...................................................................
Channel......................................................................
Split....... ....................................................................
Bevel............ .............................................................
M old...........................................................................
Turn up......................................................................
Cement........................................................................
Fill..............................................................................
Lay welt......................................................................
Fair stitch..................................................................
Assemble........................ ...........................................
Crown.........................................................................
Stamp.........................................................................
Cut off.........................................................................
Extend soles...............................................................
Sweep........ .................................................................
Operate elevators.......................................................
Organization..............................................................

16.000
21.000
18.000
12.000
12.000
6.000
15.000
13.000
25.000
21.000
23.000
22.000
12.000
41.000
43.000
11.000
5.000
15.000
12.000
79.000
4.167
25.000
25.000

.200
.260
.100
.130
.130
.040
.210
.090
.300
.180
.160
.120
.075
.500
.600
.120
.055
.080
.100
.500
.030
.090
.500

.750
.743
.333
.650
.650
.400
.840
.415
.720
.514
.417
,327
.375
.732
.837
.655
,660
.320
.500
.380
.432
.216
1.200

T otal_______

.....

_____

_____

476.167

4.570
12.718

.537

Trim uppers......................................................................
Pull tacks..........................................................................
Shank.,.......... ..................................................................
Tack toes...........................................................................
Nail toes............................................................................
Charge work.....................................................................
Open up shoes...................................................................
Pull lasts............................................................................
Sort lasts............................................................................
Organization......................................................................

20.000
20.000
178.000
118.000
131.000
256.000
19.000
30.000
20.000
21.000
36.000
66.000
28.000
19.000
18.000
21.000
18.000
12.500

.090
.090
1.900
1.850
2.050
4.000
.080
.090
.170
.160
.350
1.050
.450
.080
.080
.250
.120
.340

.270
.270
.640
.941
.939
.938
.253
.180
.510
.457
.583
.955
.964
.253
.267
.714
.400
1.632

Total________________________________________

1,031.500

13.200

375.00
285.71
333.33
500.00
500.00
1,000.00
400.00
461.54
240.00
285.71
260.87
272.73
500.00
146.34
139.53
545.45
1,200.00
400.00
500.00
75.95
1,439.88
240.00
240.00

.576

1,421.894

1

.768

Total, sole-leather department_________________
LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Put away and get out stock.............................................
Put away and get out uppers...........................................
Assemble for pull-over machine......................................
Pull over, machine......... ..................................................
Side last, machine.............................................................
Operate bed machine........................................................
Pickup work....................................................................

300.00
300.00
33.71
50.85
45.80
23.44
315.79
200.00
300.00
285.71
166.67
90.91
214.29
315.79
333.33
285.71
333.33
240.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

.270
.623
Nail seats...........................................................................
26.000
1.500
.947
95.000
M cKay sew.......................................................................
.300
.514
35.000
Cement..............................................................................
.300
.462
39.000
Wet soles............................................................. ............
.950
.731
78.000
Level..................................................................................
1.940
.954
122.000
Heel................................................................................. .
.090
.318
17.000
Piece heels.........................................................................
* These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




230. 77
63 16
171.43
153.85
76.92
49.18
352.94
repre­

70

TIME AND LABOR COSTS^-HCENTRAJL ATLANTIC DISTRICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS I N T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF T O PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
O
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION-rContinued.
.

1 ENTH AD
C

A T L A N T I C D I B T M C T — Continued.

• E s ta b U s h m m t M . M —Women-s McKay, whole quarter, lace oxford, five eyelets, glazed kid, broad
vamp, plain toe, tan forepart, black shank, leather sole, 8/8 heel—Concluded.

Department and operation.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Slug..................... .............................................................
Sock linings.............................. ................... - ...................
Lace............................................................ ......................
Second last and get out lasts.............. ............................
Trim heels....... .................................................................
Breast heels............................................. .........................
Trim edges______ — —.............. ...............................
Cobble...............................................................................
Odd shoe work..................................................................
Sweep........ - .....................- ...............................................
Operate elevators......... ...................................................
Organization.....................................................................

.Hourly
wages.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Scour breasts......................................................... ...........
First wheel........................................................................
Dope heels—......................................................................
L X V scour.........................................................................
T op heel scallop-..............................................................
Set edges............................................................................
Second wheel...... .............- ...............................................
Ink heels___ j_...................................................................
Sand bottoms....................................................................
Buff...................................................................................
Scour breasts L X V .................................................................
Brush bottoms...................................................................
Ink -heels-------- ---------- -------------------------------------------Burnish heels......................................................... ...........
Finish bottoms..................... ............. ................. ...........
Wax bottoms........................_..........................................
•
Clean stitches....................................................................
Rub edges..........................................................................
Refinish heels....................................................................
Wheel seats.......................................................................
Pull lasts............................................................................
Sort out lasts.....................................................................
Stamp bottoms j *......... ...................................................
Sweep...............................................................................
Operate elevators......... —....................................... .........
Organization................. ...................................................

Total _ _

..

__

_

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Emboss..............................................................................
Lace........................................................................ .........
Iron and tree, band..........................................................
Dress sh o e s................................................ .......... .........
Inspect............................... ................... ...........................
Brush bottoms..................................................................
Mark cartons— .................. ................. ........... ...................
Pack...................................................................................
Odd shoe work..................................... ...........................
Sweep. . . ___ __ _____________________ _________
Operate elevators___ _______________ __________ ____
Organization____________ ________________________

29.000
87.000
44.000
*92.000
89.000
142.000
173.000
25.000
25.000
25.000
*25.000
12.500

$0,200
.550
.250
.900
1.400
.900
2.400
.260
.140
.170
.090
.340

$0,414
.379
.341
.587
.944
.380
.832
.624
.336
.408
.216
1.632

1,180. *50

Total____

12.950
.270
.220
.100
1.600
.140
2.550
.190
.180
.580
.430
.300
.370
.180
.370
.630
.380
.200
.170
.250
.280
.200
.150
.120
.090
.090
1.020

.386
.293
.375
.733
.420
.945
.422
.348
.633
.629
.529
.529
.432
.529
.630
.465
.387
.425
.429
.525
.429
.346
.379
.216
.216
2.448

1,092.000

11.060

.606

19.000
44.000
143.000
126.000
45.000
29.000
20.000
35.000
25.000
25.000
25.000
25.000

.130
.250
1.000
.800
.460
.220
.150
.260
.150
.180
.090
.430

.411
.341
.420
.381
.613
.455
.450
.446
.360
.432
.216
1.032

total

r




Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

.658

42.000
45.000.
16.000
131.000
000
162.00027.000
31.000
55.000
41.000
34.000
42.000
25.000
42.000
60. C O
O
49.000
31.000
24.000
35.000
32.000
28.000
26.000
19.000
25.000
25.000
25.000

561.000

T ota l
G ra n d

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

4.120

.441

8,194.394

82.368

.603

206.90
68.97
136.36
65.22
67.42
42.25
34.68
240.60

m
m
m
m

oo
oo
oo
oo

142.86
133.33
375.00
45.80
300.00
37.04
222.22
193. 55
109.09
146.34
176.47
142.86

m oo

142.86
100.00
122.45
193. 55
250.00
171.43
187.50'.
214.29
230.77
315.79
210.00

m oo
m oo

315.79
136.36
41.96
47.62
133.33
206.90
300.00
171.43

m oo

240.00
240.00

m oo

JBBXABJUESSXSiNT TO. 23.

n

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 110 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
E Y DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t M b .

fS.—Men’s Goodyear welit, russia side, felucher, single sole, leather heel with rubber
top lift.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
pairs of
worked on
per hour?

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
uppers, machine----------------------------- -------- - ..........
Puneh tips...... , ............. — ................... .......... .....................
Skive vamps.......................... ......................... ........... .............
Skive tips........ ..................... ........................ ..........................
Crimp.......... .............................................................- ............
Mark....................................... ...................., ............................
Cut linings, machine..............................................................
Case tongues....................................................., .....................
Cut facings, hand...................................................................
Case linings.................... ........................................................
Cut backers.................... .........................................................
Case backers................... ............................................. - ..........
Case stays ................... ........................................................
Stitch tongues,........................................ - ............................
Skive outside stays.................................................................
Stamp linings,,.......................................................................
Case tongues.......................................................................... .
Split facipgs.................... ............................................J..........
Split tongues..........................................................................
Split outside stays......................................... ........................
Organization and general work............................... ...........

300.000
7.767
20.800
6.933
16.667
16.667
10.417
5.550
75.000
11.100
4.800
4.167
4.167
25.000
2.767
10.417
5.550
4.867
3.467
3.467
436.164

$3,367
.083
.200
.075
; 141
.175
.125
.050
.808
.075
.641
.033
.025
.333
.033
.063
.041
.053
.038
.038
3.333

$0,673
.641
.577
.649
.508
.630
.720
.541
.646
.405
.513
.475
.360
.799
.716
.363
.443
.653
.658
.658
.459

Total...............................................................................

975.734

9.130

.561

Make linings.................. ....... ................................................
Stitch top facings....................................................................
Trim top facings....................................................................
Stitch tips, ..............................................................................
Stitch box toes............................................................ ...........
Make vamps {attach vamp linings and tongues to
vam ps)--..............................................................................
Stitch eyelet rows...................................................................
Close tops................................................................................
Rub tops......................... - .......................................................
Stitch backstays........... .......................................................
Cement fronts..........................................................................
Fold...............................................................................- ..........
Hook__.....................................................................................
Match lin in g s— .......................................................... , ..........
Stitch tops................................................................................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Vamp.........................................................................................
Lace.........................................................................................
Trim..........................................................................................
Crown.......................................................................................
Organization and general work................. ...........................

116.667
16.667
8.333
66.400
86.200

1.166
.158
.116
. 350
.266

.600
.569
.835
.316
.185

51.43
359.99
720.03
90.36
69.61

65.267
66.480
28.800
8.570
150.000
20.833
83.000
28.800
4.900
187. 500
23.000
125.000
41. 667
29.167
16.667
187.056

.566
.337
.200
.083
.866
.133
.667
.200
.050
1.667
.200
1. 585
.167
.200
.116
1. 667

.520
.304
.417
.581
.346
.383
.482
.417
.612
.533
.522
.761
.240
.411
.418
.535

91.93
90.25
208.33
700.12
40.00
288.00
72.29
208.33
1,224.49
32.00
260.87
48.00
144.00
205. 71
359.99
82.08

Total...............................................................................

1,360.974

10. 760

.474

Outsoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade.................................................................................
Sort........................... ........................................................
Pack...................................................................................
Case...................................................................................
Organization and general work.....................................

32.000
10.417
10.000
6.000
6.000
31. 662

.409
.075
.683
.640
.045
.300

.750
.432
.498
.400
.450
.569

Total...............................................................................

96.079

.943

.589

Insoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade................................................................................
Sort......... ..........................................................................
Pack..................................................................................
Case....................................................................................
Organization and general work...... .............................

30.660
10.667
10.000
6.000
11.333
15.831

.400
.080
.075
.045
.116
.150

.800
.450
.450
.450
.582
.569

83.831

.860

.616

Cut

20.60
772.50
288.46
865.43
359.99
359.99
575.98
1,081.08
80.00
540.54
1,250.00
1,439.£8
1,439.88
240.00
2,168.41
575.98
1,081.08
1,232.79
1,730.60
1,730.60
137.56

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

BOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total________________________________




187.50
575.98
600.00
1,600.00
1,000.60
189.50

200.00
562.48
600.60
1,000.00
529.43
379.00

72

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR IC T,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

2$.—Men’s Goodyear welt, russia side, blucher, single sole, leather heel with rubber
top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.
%

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Counters:
Cut
__________
Mnld
_____
Crown_____________ _____
_____
__________
Dip
___
___ ___
Sort .............. „„ ...........
... .. . . ,,
_ ___
Casa , .......................
.................
_ __
Wax______ ______ ______________________________
Organization and general work _ _r „

45.800
30.000
2.500
7.000
8.000
3.000
7.000
42.970

$0,400
.245
.035
.050
.055
.020
.050
.300

$0,524
.490
.840
.429
.413
.400
.429
.419

Total-......................................................................
Rox tops, leather l _ _
_, „. _ _

146.270
113.788

1.155
1.033

.474
.545

30.000
5.000
244.500
10.000
12.000
6.000
1.500
83.679
392.679

.400
.050
2.000
.060
.100
.058
.010
.587
3.265

.800
.600
.491
.360
.500
.580
.400
.421
.499

200.00
1,200.00
24.54
600.00
500.00
1,000.00
4,000.00
71.70

10.000
24.000
12.500
147.003
193.503
1,026.150

.082
.283
.120
1.327
1.813
9.069

.498
.708
.576
.542
.562
.530

600.00
250.00
480.00
40.82

10.550
16.767
6.667
6.667
7.083
63.000
83.000
83.000
200.000
116.934
593.668

.100
. 116
.083
.063
.083
.625
1.058
.958
2.583
1.083
6.752

.569
.415
.747
.567
.703
.595
.765
.693
.775
.556
.682

568.72
357.85
899.96
899.96
847.10
95.24
72.29
72.29
30.00
51.31

11.117
35.700
83.000
71.383
20.000
20.833
25.000
23.783
23.783
16.767
20,000
10.000
25,000
16.767
50.000
83.000
35.700
41.667
13.883
27.783

.133
.250
.616
1.100
.167
.283
.167
.175
.167
.116
.158
.116
.275
.233
.692
1.567
.308
.500
.125
.300
.067
2.017
2.000
11.532

.718
.420
.445
.925
.501
.815
.401
.441
.421
.415
.474
.696
.660
.834
.830
1.133
.518
.720
.540
.648
.482
.848
.541
.673

539.71
168.07
72.29
84.05
300.00
288.00
240.00
252.28
252.28
357.85
300.00
600.00
240.00
357.85
120.00
72.29
168.07
144. Q
0
432.18
215.96
720.03
42.03
27.07

Heels:
Cut. lifts
Sort lifts
Build
fikive _____ ,

Dress ____

.
_____

__
...

__

_
_

__________

_ ___ ___ , .

__.

_
_ ____
. _

_ _

Compress
Pack*____ ■
_____________________________________

Organization and general work __
Total
...

......

Stock fitting:

Mold _____________________________________
Channel
_
_
__
_ _ _ __

_
Turn lips. ...................... •______ ________________

Organization and general work

T otal.— ; ...............................................................
Total, sole-leather department.............. ...............
LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Case lasts _.
.......
.
__
Tank insoles__
Case counters ......
Crease lasts
_
Trim insoles___
Assemble for pull-over machine
Pull over, machine
___
Ride last, machine . _
_
__
Operate bed machine
_
_ _
_
Organization and general work

_
.........
...
_
_
_

Total........................................................................
FOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim toes
Rtanle___
PnlTlast tacks.
Goodyear welt

...

__

_

._ _
_
..... _

Butt welts________________________________________

Trim inseams
_
Pnll bottom tacks
Beat welts
Tack joints.
__
Rtick shanks __ _ ___

_

_
....
__ _
__
....
...... ____
_
_
Fill bottoms______________ ________________ _____
Cement welts .....
. ......
..
_ ...
Lay soles. _
T_
Nail heel seats
n _
.
Rongh round. . .
Goodyear stitch. . _ _ .
_
_.
_
_. ...
Level
......
. _
.
Heel
__
Trim heel seats
Trim heels _ _. _ _ r
„
___ _ _
Cut strings__
_
.
_ ..
Trim edges
Organization and general work
Total..................1....................................................

a 333

142.767
221.688
1,027.954

131.00
200.00
2,400.00
857.14
750.00
2,000.00
857.14
139.63

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




ESTABLISHMENT NO. 36.

73

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.

1923,

C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 8 .—

Men’s Goodyear welt, russia side, blucher, single sole, leather heel with rubber
top lift—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

.583
3.908

.531

20.833
20.833
20.833
20.833
142. 700
71.383
71.383
25.000
80.000
16.667
6.950
25.000
116.310

. 208
.175
.146
.167
1.733
.533
.583
.250
.750
.116
.063
.233
1.000

.599
.504
.420
.481
.729
.448
.490
.600
.563.418
.544
.559
.516

638. 725

5.957

.560

6,064.722

Tntal

$0,672
.501
.720
.527
.624
.450
.540
.383
.300
.527
.529
.576
.471

441.517

Scour heels, first time............................................................
Scour heel breasts....................................................................
Paste heels...............................................................................
Scour heels, second time.......................................................
Set edges...................................................................................
Ink heels...................................................................................
Burnish heels...........................................................................
Bleach.......................................................................................
Clean bottoms........................................................................
Polish foreparts.......................................................................
Wheel breasts..........................................................................
Pull l$sts...................................................................................
Organization and general work............................................

57.108

.565

41.667
2 0 .0 0 0

8.333
38.333
74.000
16.667
41.067
20.833
25.000
49.300
10.550
20.833
74.334

$0,467
.167
.100
.337
.770
.125
.375
.133
.125
.433
.093

.200

144.00
300.00
720.03
156.52
81.08
359.99
144.00
288.00
240.00
121.70
568.72
288.00
80.72

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Cut tacks..................................................................................
Line heels.................................................................................
Stamp.......................................................................................
Stripe........................................................................................
Tree, machine..,1
............................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Repair.......................................................................................
Polish........................................................................................
Brush........................................................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Stamp cartons.........................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Organization and general work...................j .......................

Total

_

___

_

Grand total
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 6 .—

_

288.00
288.00
288.00
288.00
42.05
84.05
84.05
240.00
75.00
359.99
863.31
240.00
51.59

Misses’ tan calf, 3/4 fox, pony cut, lace tip, tan calf upper, leather sole, 8/8 leather
heel with rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Cut uppers, machine..................................
Cut top facings, machine...........................
Cut lace facings, machine..........................
Cut linings, machine..................................
Cut vamp linings, machine......................
Stamp linings...............................................
Mark quarters.............................................
Skive toes......................................................
Skive vamps.................................................
Skive tips......................................................
Skive tops.....................................................
Perforate and stitch quarters....................
Perforate foxings..........................................
Perforate vamps..........................................
Perforate tips and medallions..................
Organization.................................................

222.220
68.580
171.420
88.000
40.000
22.220
22.220
16.670
41.670
16.670
27.780
55.560
62.500
62.500
13.890
115.200

$4.583
.500
1.250
.917
.167
.125
.333
.139
.361
.139
.250
.722
.861
.667
.139
1.900

$1,240
.437
.438
.625
.251
.338
.899
.500
.520
.500
.540
.780
.827
.640
.600
.990

Total...................................................

,047.100

13.053

.748

27.780
83.330
55.560
22.220
166.670
83.330
260.000
13.890
13.890

.417
1.139
.555
.222
.889
.500
1.083
.097
.125

.901
.820
.599
.599
.320
.360
.250
.419
.540

27.00
87.49
35.00
68.18
150.00
270.03
270.03
359.93
143.99
359.93
215.98
107.99
96.00
96.00
431.97
52.08

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Close linings.................................................
Make linings.................................................
Fold quarters................. .............................
Fold tips........................................................
Close uppers.................................................
Stay uppers.................................................
Trim for top closing....................................
Ink tips.........................................................
Ink edges, foxings................................... .




215.98
72.00
107.Q9
270.03
36.00
72.00
23.08
431.97
431.97

74

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR ICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E O F 160 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued.
' J S sta M ish m en t

N o.

30—Misses' tan calf, 3/4 fox, pony cut. lace tip, tan calf upper, leather sole, 8/8 leather
heel with nibber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Ink .edges, vamps
........
r
r
TnJrtftdges, qiffliters .....................
Line vamps.
Crease tips,
_.............._ _ _ _ _ _
Btitnh tips
_ _
Bi ee out Vamps
........
fttitrih haekstraps
_
. __ _
_ _
Stitoh tops
* ,rn
.
_
_ __
Eyelet ‘
______
Vam p_______ ___________„_________________________
Trim* for packing
Lipft tongiifts
.
Close toes
...... ____
Bar______________ __________________________ ______
Assemble and pef*.k. ................
._ __
.. _
Organization * _
Total _

$0,250
.208
.306
.111
.528
.111
.917
1.528
.917
2.750
1.083
.833
.694
.278
1.000
.800

$0,540
.539
.661
.260
.456
.479
.495
.550
1.320
.792
.292
,400
.500
.600
1.440
.833

2,008.020

17.341

.518

41.670
8.330
33.330

,

27.780
23.140
27.780
33.330
69.440
13.890
111. 110
166.670
41.670
208.330
222.840
125.000
83.330
27.780
41.670
57.590

.420
.093
.1-51

.605
.670
.272

215.98
259.29
215.98
180.02
86.41
431.97
54.00
36.00
143.99
28.80
26.93
• 48.00
72.00
215.98
143.99
104.18

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles:
Cpt
......
Sort
Mark sires
Total

_
^
-

-r .
._

.

...

_

__

83.330

.664

.478

Tuner snips, leather 1
_ _
_
__
-Counters, leather 1___________ __ __________________
Box toes, leather 1
Reels, leather R/Rl _
. . . ...

110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

1.069
1.814
1.033
3.253

.581
.496
.545
.461

Stock fitting:
Buff scratches _ _ _
_
Temper________________________________________
■Round . . . . . _ _
Channel
.
___ _
_ __ _
Place tops______________, _______ _______________
Trim tops. _
_
„.
Mold soles
___ _ __
Open channels___________________________ ______
Fair stitch
_
_______ _ _
Round insoles
-.Organization __ __ __ __

33.330
13.890
• 33.330
41.670
33.330
27.780
27.780
27.780
50.000
19. 440
57.600

.370
.154
.336
.362
.243
.203
.203
.212
.521
.196
.900

.666
.665
. 605
.521
.437
.438
.438
.458
.625
.605
.<938

143.99
720.29
180.02

Total........................................................................
Total, sole-leather .department

_r

..

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
-<5et out lasts ___
__________ ___ _
Assemble for pull-over machine
_
_
Pull-over, machine
____ ...
.
_
_
Last, C. "F . M . machine
T
„ r_ri.
__ ,
„
Pound___________ ____ ____________________________
Pull tacks and strings _
..
_ _ __
___
Put in shanks. ___ ______ _
Lay soles
_
_
‘P ulllasts___ _ _
_ __ __. _ _______ _
Wet bottoms.
.
_ __ _
Organization.
r _ _
Total________________________________________

365.930

3.700

.607

1,255.546

11.033

.527

24.900
83.330
69.440
125.000
47.220
64.000
35.560
69.450
-64 000
ll! 110
57.590

.250
1.139
1.333
2.000
.555
.667
.111
.833
.667
.111
.800

.625
.820
1.152
.960
.705
.625
.187
.720
.625
.599
.833

650.700

8.466

180.02
431.97\
180.-02
143.99
180.02
215.98
215.98
215.98
120.00
308.64
104.1,7

.781

250.00
72.00
86.41
48.00
127.06
93.75
lea 73
86.39
93.75
540.00
104.18

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-HO.




ESTABLISHMENT NO. 40.

75

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o 8 6 .—

Misses’ tan calf, 3/4 fox, pony cut, lace tip, tan calf upper, leather sole, 8/8 leather
heel with rubber top lift—-Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

B O T T O M IN G D E P A R T M E N T .

McKay sew..............................................................................
Cement channels.....................................................................
Lay channels............................................................................
Nail heel seats..........................................................................
Level................... .....................................................................
Wheel....................- ................................................................
Nail leather heel bases...........................................................
Nail rubber top pieces...............: ...........................................
Put in lasts...............................................................................
Shave heels...............................................................................
Breast heels...................................... ......................................
Trim edges......... .....................................................................
General "work....... ....................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total.................................. ............................................

55.560
27.780
13.890
19.440
55.560
27.780
41.670
41.670
126.780
4L670
27.780
111. 110
11.110
2& 800
630.600

$0,917
.194
.139
.194
.222
.222
.583
.583
1.167
.583
.389
1.389
.167
.500
7.249

$0,990
.419
.600
.599
.240
.479
.839
.839
. 552
.839
.840
.750
.902
1.042

47.200
69.150
13.890
68.560
19.440
55.560
33.330
41.670
101.810
80.000
112.940
87.280
32.720
28.800
792.670

.667
1.306
.139
.333
.194
.472
.306
.583
1.167
.917
.667
.667
.250
.500

127.06
86.39
431.97
87.51
308.65
107.99
180.02
143.99
5a 93
75.00
53.13
68.74
183.38
208.33

8.168

.847
1.128
.600
.291
.599
.510
.551
.839
.688
.688
.354
.458
.458
1.042
.618

.583
.917
.500
1.750
.833
.250
1.167
.500
.583
.500
.500
.520
.840
9.443

.375
.333

.625
.625
.312
.313
.313
.416
.313
.354
.542
.875
.421

64.29
36.33
66.61
35.71
75.00
124.99
26.79
62.50
71.43
62.50
70.85
104.17
104.17

Total...............................................................................

a3.330
165.140
90.080
168.000
80.000
48.000
224.000
96.000
84.000
96.000
84.690
57.600
57.600
1.344.440

Grand total ..................................................................

7,729.076

74.753

.580

107.99
215.98
431.97
306.64
107.99
215.98
143.99
143.99
47.33
143.99
215.98
54.00
§40.00
208.33

.690

F IN IS H IN G D E P A R T M E N T .

Scour, first time........................................ ..... ........................
Set edges...................................................... .......... .................
Ink heel seats..................................................... .....................
Brush edges.—.........................................................................
Ink heels.............................. ...................................................
Burnish heels...........................................................................
Shank out.................................................................................
Buff bottoms...........................................................................
Stain bottoms................................................ .........................
Wax bottoms...........................................................................
Stripe bottoms.........................................................................
Brush uppers..................................................... ....................
Pull lasts...................................................................................
Organization.......................... .................................................
Total...............................................................................
T R E E IN G A N D P A C K IN G D E P A R T M E N T .

Stamp bottoms........................................................................
Sock linings..............................................................................
Pad heels___________________ ______ __________________
Iron............................................................................................
Clean.........................................................................................
Size out.....................................................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Lace........ .................................................................................
Crown........ .......... .................................................................. .
Stamp cartons.........................................................................
Pack............... ...........................................................................
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization............... .............................................................

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 0 .—

.333

Women's Goodyear welt, patent leather oxford, leather heel.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Give out jobs...........................................................................
Stock man................................................................... ............
Cut outsides, hand................................................................
Cut tongues..............................................................................
Cut back straps.......................................................................
Cut linings, canvas................................................................
Cut linings, leather.................................................................
Cut drill toe linings................................................................
Cut sock linings......................................................................
Skive.............................................................. ..........................
Mark uppers............................................................................
Stamp linings.......................... ................................................
Stamp name, sock lining.......................................................
Sock lining (gold stamper)....................................................
Cripple work...........................................................................
Organization_________ _ __ . __
__ _
Total_________________________________




8 7 .2 7 3
6 2 .5 0 0
5 3 1 .2 5 0
3 3 .3 3 3
3 3 .3 3 3
55. 556
1 6 6 .6 6 7
8 3 .3 3 3
5 0 .0 0 0
1 8 7 .5 0 0
8 3 .3 3 3
5 2 .0 8 3
5 0 .0 0 0
5 8 .3 3 3
2 1 .8 1 8
6 5 .4 5 5

$ 1 .1 7 4
.5 4 3
8 .5 0 0
.1 5 0
.1 5 0
.3 4 7
1 .6 6 7
.3 9 6
.5 9 4
1 .5 8 3
.3 3 3
.4 5 8
.3 7 5
.4 6 6
. 265
1 .0 2 3

$ 0 ,8 0 7
.5 2 1
.9 6 0
.2 7 0
.2 7 0
.3 7 5
.6 0 0
.2 8 5
.7 1 3
.5 0 6
.2 4 0
.5 2 8
.4 5 0
.4 7 9
.7 2 9
.9 3 8

1,621.767

18.024

.667

6 8 .7 5
9 6 .0 0
1 3 .2 9
1 8 0 .0 0
1 8 0 .0 0
1 0 8 .0 0
3 6 .0 0
7 2 .0 0
1 2 0 .0 0
3 1 .9 7
7 2 .0 0
115. 20
1 2 0 .0 0
1 0 2 .8 5
2 7 5 .0 0
9 1 .6 7

76

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N TR A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR ICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923*
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

40—Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather oxford, leather heel—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

STITCH
ING DEPARTMENT.
Close................ ........................................................................
___ ________ .... __
Close linings______
.
____ _
Rub d o w n ____
Mark quarters
_
. ,„
Rnh seams
._ _
_
...
___
Wink vamps.
. ____
Cement vamps _
_ ___ ______
Bead vamps....................................................... .....................
Perforate tips _
_____
Paste tips
__________ _ _ _____
. ___
Stitch tips............................................................................. .
Cement.......... .........................................................................
Bead
_ _ _ __
_____________
_
Paste stays....... ............................ ................... ......................
Trim stays________
_ _ __ . . . _________
____
Paste ends
__ _
Make linings............................................................................
Lay on linings.........................................................................
Fancy stitch and backstrap
__________
Stitch tops.____ _________ ___________________________
Eyelet____ ______________________ _____ ______________
Prepare for vamps________________ ____________ _____
Half lining- _
______
Stitch vamp linings
Tack
___
_ _______
Line inner toes _______
_ ___
Crease center and welts _ __
Size out
_
_____ _
Vamp........................................................................................
Line tongues
_
. ....
...........
Stitch tongues............................................... ..........................
Trim____________________ ____ __________ ____ ____
Lace____________________________________________ . .
Crown............................................................................ .......
Cripple work __ __
.
___________
Organization _ ___ .

52.083
45.833
18.750
41.667
25.000
52.083
104.167
141.667
47.917
52.083
87.500
85.417
191.667
83.333
43.750
29.167
218.750
52.083
416.667
343.750
62.500
104.167
93.750
100.000
135.417
83.333
68.750
72.917
395.833
83.333
145.833
395.833
31.250
62.500
21.818
65.455

$0,333
.333
.051
.271
.167
.271
.271
1.375
.417
.464
.792
.500
1.375
.354
.146
.188
2.208
.604
3.271
2.229
.521
.646
.625
.558
.479
.396
.323
.313.
3.750
.583
.958
1.946
.130
.434
.167
.663

$0,384
.436
.162
.390
.401
.312
.156
.582
.522
.535
.543
.351
.430
.255
.200
.387
.606
.696
.471
.389
.500
.372
.400
.335
.212*
.285
.282
.258
.569
.420
.394
.295
.250
.417
.459
.608

Total.............................. ...............................................

4,056.023

28.112

.416

Outsoles, leather1...................................................................
Insoles, leather1......................................................................
Counters, le a t h e r ....................... .....................................
Top pieces, leather1
...................... 71..................................
Box toes, leather1
...................................................................

84.111
110.404
158.915
55.330
113.788

.892
1.069
1.314
.587
1.033

.637
.581
•496
•636
.545

Heels:
Cut lifts.............................................................................
Paste.................................................................................
Nail________________
Stock....................................................... .........................
Gouge wedge press..........................................................

100.000
88.889
88.889
88.889
142.592

.868
.401
.710
.586
1.436

.521
.271
.479
.396
.604

Total...............................................................................

509.259

4.001

.471

Stock fitting:
Select soles............................................................. .......
Welt and roll..................................................................
Round insoles.................................................................
Welt split heel roll______
Bevel and nick......... ...................................................
Round shave....................................................................
Split feather edge.........................................................
Channel...........................................................................
Fit insoles and assemhle_______
Organization........ ........................................................

38.887
44.444
33.333
166.667
27.778
83.333
44.444
55.556
55.556
21.818

.378
.401
.313
1.505
.164
.723
.463
.579
.521
.322

.583
.542
.563
.542
.354
.521
.625
.625
.563
.886

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

115.20
130.91
320.00
144.00
240.00
115.20
57.60
42.35
125.22
115.20
68.57
71 24
3 30
7 .00
13 f. 14
2C5.71
27.43
115.20
14.40
17.45
96.00
57.60
64*. 00
60.00
44.31
72.00
87.27
82.28
15 16
72.00
41.14
- 15.16
191.87
96.00
275.00
91.67

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total...............................................................................

571.816

5.369

1,603.623

14.265

154.29
135.00
180.00
36.00
216.00
72.00
135.00
108. C
O
108.00
275.00

.563

Total, sole-leather department..................................

60.00
67.50
67.50
67.50
42.08

.534

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. (See pp. 132-140.)




77

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 40.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023;
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T -C o n tin u e d .
40.—Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather oxford, leather heel—Concluded.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Pick lasts_______ ____ __________________ _____________
Last, hand___ _____ __________________________________
Operate bed machine_________________________________
General work_________________________________________
Organization__________________________________________

52.083
1,354.167
375.000
109.091
21.818

$0,244
15.000
4.000
.970
.303

$0,281
.665
.640
.534
.833

Total..................................................... ........................

1,912.159

20.517

.644

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.
Trim toes____________________________________________
Pull tacks__________________________ _________________
Goodyear welt________________________________________
Trim 'inseams
Beat welts ___________________________________________
Fill bottoms___________ ______ _ _______ _______ ____
_
Fill toes___________________________ ____ ________ ____
Lay soles_____________________________________________
Press welts
Rough round_________________________________________
Nailseats_______ __________________________ ____ _____
Wet and beat seats......... .......__........................ ...................
W et and heat shanks
Tack joints______________________ ____________________
Open channels _
_ _ _
.
_ _
W et up
___
_ _ _ _
Goedyear stitch
.. ... .
_ . .
Level______________________________________ ______ ___
Heel, leather__________________________________________
Trim heels
Breast heels
_
.
_ _
Trim edges_________________________ ____________ ____
Trim welts___________________ ________ _______________
Joint
.
_ . _
.. . _ _
General work___ _____________________________________
Organization
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

31.250
83.333
160.417
197.917
45.833
166.667
23.333
162.858
25.000
145.833
83.333
100.000
100.000
20.000
54.167
27.083
281.250
204.167
133.333
96.667
200.000
200.000
31.250
150.000
43.636
65.455

.375
.708
3.750
1.500
.375
1.500
.250
.950
.104
1.594
.792
.750
.917
.250
.350
.113
3.125
3.208
2.000
1.625
2.000
2.500
.417
.917
.167
.947

.720
.510
1.403
.455
.491
.540
.643
.350
.250
.656
.570
.450
.550
.750
.388
.250
.667
.943
.900
.864
.600
.750
.801
.367
.230
.868

Total_____________________ „____________________

2,832.782

31.184

.660

333.333
200.000
114.583
125.000
157.292
95.000
489.583
116.667
43.333
21.818
32.727

3.750
2.000
1.125
1.250
1.750
.917
4.781
1.250
.500
.182
.398

.675
.600
.589
.600
.668
.579
.586
.643
.692
.501
.730

1,729.336

17.903

.621

93.750
360.000
183.333
41.667
62.500
25.000
41.667
333.333
58.333
83.333
27.083
31.250
87.273
54.545

.423
3.000
1.591
. 145
.217
.122
.260
2.292
.223
.694
.160
.184
.723
.568

.271
.500
.521
.208
.208
.292
.375
.413
.229
.500
.354
.354
.497
.625

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

115.2i
4.43
16.09
55.09
275.09

192.09
72.00
37.49
30.31
130.91
36.09
257.15
36.84
240.09
41.14
72.00
60.00
60.09
300.09
110.77
221.54
21.33
29.39
45.09
62.07
30.09
30.00
191.87
40.09
137.59
91.66

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Set edges
Scour breasts and heels.
._
_
Burnish heels_______ _________________________________
Wheel edges, first time
_ . _
B uff b ottom s....... _ .... . . .
Wheel seats
........
Finish shoes
_
_
__ ..^ ____
Wheel edges, second time ........ _
.
_
Pull lasts . . .
. . . .
...
.....
General work _
_ ........ _ _ _.
Organization
_
.._...
Total

_

_

____

_

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT,
flock linings.
. . . .
Tree, hand
. _
_ r _ _
T, _ ___
.
Repair patent leather .
.
___
Pair up shoes
__ . . . . ___ ___
Cut. ends_____ . . . _. _ ..... .......... . . ... . _____
Stamp soles
. . . . . . . . . . . r *.
Stamp sock linings____________________________________
Clean (whole shoe)
. . . . ____ _
Lace__________________________________________________
Examine
Stamp boxes _
.
Pack..........................................................................................
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization __ .
..
..
___ .
Total

_ _ ___

_

Grand total

847t)l°— 241------ 6




_
.

_ .

_

_ _

1,483.067

10.602

.429

15,238.757

140.607

.554

18.09
30.00
52.39
48.09
38.15
63.16
12.26
51.43
138.46
275.00
%183.33

64.09
16.67
32.73
144.00
96.00
240.00
144.09
18.09
102.86
72.00
221.54
191.87
68.75
110.09

7§

TIME AND LABOR COSTS-— CENT&AL ATLANTIC DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1823,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T * A N D OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continuad.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 1 .—Women’s

Goodyear we£t, black kid oxford, one strap, two buttons, leather sole,
8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Pick out leather, outsides __
____ . . . - ___ __
__ _
Make test, cards-'and count leather___ ____ _
Traiwlat.p. leather
_
Pick out leather trimmings
_ ___
Cut outsides, hand
~
_
____ . . . . . .
Cat linings, hand
Cut reenfor'cings, hand
_
_
_ ..
Out trimmings..'_
_
.
__ _
Cut heel anchors, die machine. . . . . . . . .
__ . .
Cut. reenforcing, die machine. 1 _
Out throat, pieces_
_
Inspect outsides. _
.. .. .
Mark for imitation stitching
_ .
TMeepenirifra in strap____ Jl*___ ____
Sttarqp outsides.
"
Stamp reeri forcings
Assemble . .. . ~
_ ..
too linings.
_
__ _
,
„
i
Stamp quarter finings. ____________ ____ _ ______
Skive quarters____ 7
,r_______________________________
Organization .
.. .
. . . .
Total___ __________

___________ _

STITCH G DEPARTMENT.
IN
Seam linings
. n___...... .
Vamp linings (sew toe lining)______________
Sew m heel anchor________ ...._______ ___ ___ _ _
ffeirm labels
___ __ _i
_ „ ___
Hub seams . . .
___
,
Paistfi vamp doublers.
....
..................... ...... ..
Paste hntton reenforcings
__ . .
Paste throat pieces................................................... ............
Paste quarter doublers _ _ _ ...
. _____ __
Trim- quarter doublers_______ ^
____ ___
Trim vamp doublers.
___________
, n. r __
Assemble _
d o s e hack seams
_ _
„ . ____
■Ruh hack seAms
_
.......... .
■Reenforce hack seams __
_ _
. ,
.......... ,
Fold overlaps___________________________________ _
Stit.cft imitation taxings _
. _
_____ ___
Stitch “ V ” stitch on vamps ____ _
Vamp
_
_ .......... . „ „
Paste paper fbr bindings. . .
, , , ____ ,
Stitch on bindings.......... ..................................... ...............
Cement b in d in g s______
Fold bindings _____
_
_ ______ _
Size out__________________________ __________________

Pump stitch. _______ ________________ _____ _______
Make buttonholes
_ ...
Sew on buttons_____________________________________
Stitch openings................... ..... ................... .......................
Tack straps.._________________ ______ ____ __________

Case and t r i m ___

_

.

.

.. n

Inspection.............................................. ...... ...................

Organization and general work

___ ____

Total__________ ______ _
_

1 .0 0
00
80
.0 0
13.000
2 .0 0
00

495.000
30.000
32.000
362.000
40.000
44.000
24.000
74.000
190.000
56.000
2a 000

$ai26

.100

.164
.250

8.000

.550
.650
3.630
.300
.400
.154
.925
1.047
.550

$0,750
.750
.757
.750
.970

600.00
750.00
461.54
300.00

187.50
16.57
150.00
136.36
250.00
81.08
31.58
107.14
300 00
250.00
3,000.00
300.00
300.00
300.00
21.55

10
.1 0

2a ooo
278.454

1.680

1.219
.601
.450
.545
.385
.750
.331
.589
.660
.450
.480
.390
.600
.600
.362

1,782.454

19.471

.655

80.000
106.000
300.000
70.000
50.000
34.000
50.000
26.000
60.000
42.000
30.000
4.000
38.000

.690
.950
1.850
.470
.300

.518
.538
.370
.403
.360
.353
.384
.554
.460
.420
.420
.375
.395
.450
.240
.349
.630

1 .1
22
20 0
0 .0

21000
2.0 0
0
2a ooa
2 .0 0
00

.220

,180
.016
.130

.200
.200

.200
.320
.240
.460
.294

.210

2 .0 0
00

.025
.250
.150

86.000
281.906
90.000
120.822
80.000
560.000
180.000
488.000
41.820
440.000
60.000
40.000
100.000r
24.325
50.000
8.000
1 ,62a 492

.500
2.750
.850
1.470
.480
3.400
.950
3.450
.230
3.500
.400
.250
1.390
.150
.650
.062
-6.590
33.681

.388

84.111
110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

20
.00
85.71
120.00
176.47
10 0
2 .0
230.77
10 0
0 .0
142.86
20 0
0 .0

.567
.730
.360
.364
.317
.424
.330
.477
.400
.375
.834
.370
.780
.465
.243

5,211.365

75.00
56.60

.637
.581
.496
.545
.461

50.000

.200

1500.00
157.89
30000

12 .0
00

69.77
22.91
66.67
49.66
75.00
ia 71
33.33
12.30
143.47
13.64

10 0
0 .0

150.00
60.00
246.66

10 0
2 .0

75a 00
3.60
,, . ,r
r

ii

-

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles, leather1
...................................................................
Insoles, leather1......... ............ ................ .......................
Counters, leather1............................................. ..............
Box toes, leather1............. .............. ............ .......... ............
Heels, leather, 8 /8 1............ ......... .........................................

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




ESTABLISHMENT NO. £L

79

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m m t N o . 4 i . ~

Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, one strap, two buttons, leather sole,
8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued.
/8

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Stock fitting:
Sort outsoles....................................................................
Round outsoles. .............................................................
Split outsoles....................................................................
Bevel foreparts........... .....................................................
Shank soles................. ....................................................
Mold soles.......................................................................
Stamp soles.......................................................................
Round insoles........... . .....................................................
Channel insoles...............................................................
Turn up channels............................................................
Cement .channels.............................................................
Lay canvas......................................................................
Trim canvas.....................................................................
Form toes..........................................................................
Shellac toes.......................................................................
Put in rivets.....................................................................
Tack heel pieces..............................................................
Stamp.............................. ................................................
Mark for heel pieces........................................................
Crown insoles...................................................................
Get out counters and case........... - ................................
Get out heels and cut top lifts............. - .......................
Organization and general work....................................
Total

__________

Total, sole-leather department.................................

8.000
24.000

2 .0 0
00

16.000
24.000
20.000
10.000
40.000
40.000
30.000
20.000
26.000
30.000
18.000
20.000
24.000
14.000
12.000
14.000
30.000
14.000
18.000
86.300

$0,097
.340
.200
.149
.223
.186
.045
.425
.360
.204
.090
.172
.198
.167
.090
.230
.073
.054
.077
.288
.098
.261
.758

$0,728
.850
.600
.559
.558
.558
.270
.638
.540
.408
.270
.397
.396
.557
.270
.575
.313
.270
.330
.576
.420
.870
.527

658.300

4.785

.514

1,448.697

12.346

.511

2.000
6.000
18.000
3a 000
22.000
20.000
35.2-40
30.000
16.000
30.000
10.000
242.000
80.000
100.000
76.000
240.000
60.000

.013
.038
.140
.260
.120
.126
.370
.270
.200

.390
.380
.467
.520
.327
.378
.630
.540
.750
.828
.378
.297
1.373
1.098
1.445
.915
.620
.675
.392

750.00
250.00
300.00
375.00
25a 00
3oaoo
600.00
150.00
150.00
20a 00
300.00
230.77
200.00
333.33
300.00
250.00
428.57
500.00
428.57
200.00
428.57
333.33
*9.52

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Receive and check uppers................................................. .
Handle soles. - ........................................................................
Cement soles...........................................................................
Get out lasts............................................................................
Clean lasts____________________________________________
Wax toes......... .........................................................................
Tack insoles...........................................................................
Trim insoles. ..........................................................................
Pound leaf..............................................................................
Inspect ....................................................................................
Assemble parts........................................................................
Assemble for pull-over machine............ ................... .........
Pull over, machine............ .................... ..............................
Draft (inspect)........................................................................
Side last machine...................................................................
Operate bed machine.......................................................... .
Inspect.......... ........................................................ .................
Heat and shape toes...............................................................
Organization and general work............................................

358.170

.063
1.200
1.830
1.830
1.830
3.660
.620
.450
2.340

T o ta l................................. ..........................................

1,415.410

15, 774

.669

40.000
80.000
55.000
120.000
40.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
20.000
56.000
69.000
70.000
158.000
72.000
60.000

.300
.400
.300
2.230
.220
.550
.400
.600
.400
.400
.150
.500
1.230
.370
2.370
.750
.400

.450
.300
.327
1.115
.330
.550
.400
.600
.400
.400
.450
.537
1.070
.317
.900
.625
.400

4 000
a

.414

3,000.00
1,000.00
333.33
200.00
272.73
300.00
170.26
200.00
375.00
200.00

600.00
24.79
75.00

60.00
78.95
25.00
100.00
150.00
16.75

B TTO IN D R E T.
O M G EPA TM N
Staple uppers..........................................................................
Pull side tacks.........................................................................
Trim uppers............................................................................
Goodyear welt.........................................................................
Pull bottom tacks..................................................................
Trim inseams.........................................................................
Butt and tack joints.............................................................
Beat welts........................................................ ......................
Put in shanks.................... ....................................................
Fill bottoms.........................................................................
Cement bottoms.....................................................................
Lay soles........................................................... ... ...................
Rough round.............................................. ............................
Open channels and reduce shanks.......................................
Goodyear stitch...................................................................
Rand and break shanks___
_
,
Cement channel and lay leaf _




150.00
75.00
109.09

50.00
150.00
100.00

ioaoo
100.00
100.00
100.00
300.00
107.14
86.96
86.71
37.97
83.33
100.00

80

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT,

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Concluded.
E s ta b lis h m en t N o ,

4.—Women’s Goodyear welt, black
1

kid oxford, one strap, two buttons, leather sole,
8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift— Concluded.

Department and operation.

b o t t o m in g

departm ent—

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

c o n c lu d e d .

Nail and trim seats..................................................
Level...........................................................................
Inspect........................................................................
Sifce out for heeling...................................................
Heel,............................................................................
Load heeler.............................................................

60.000
160.000
18.000
14.000
80.000
80.000
24.000
60.000
49.320
170.000
38.000
414.890

$0,420
1.850
.117
.150
1.240
.306
.250
.990
.600
2.720
.500
2.600

$0,420
.694
.390
.643
.930
.230
.625
.990
.730
.960
.789
.376

2,308.210

23.313

.606

Scour heels, first time................................
Scour breasts................................................
Glue heels......................................................
Pound heel seats ..........................................
Scour heels, second time............................
Brush off dust..............................................
Set and wheel edges.....................................
Ink heels, first time........ ........................
Clean stitches................................................
Roll heels................................ ....................
Sand bottoms................................................
Cuff shanks............. ....................................
Line up shanks.............................................
Line up heel breasts....................................
Brush off dust...............................................
Bleach bottoms............................................
Ink heels, second time................................
Dye and ink bottoms..................................
Stain bottoms..............................................
Iron bottoms................................................
Roll bottoms.................................................
Cut shanks....................................................
Wheel and stripe............. ............................
Wax bottoms................................................
Polish bottoms............................................
Bead heels.....................................................
Burnish heels........................ ’. .....................
C le a n ...........................................................
Pull lasts........................................................
Inspect...........................................................
Stamp soles...................................................
Organization.................................................

44.000
15.000
20.000
38.000
44.000
12.000
180.000
28.000
24.000
44.000
46.000
42.000
38.000
20.000
12.000
20.000
32.000
50.000
40.000
40.000
60.000
16.000
84.000
30/000
40.000
24.000
74.000
60.000
70.000
30.000
3a 000
9a 340

.500
.290
.150
.270
.500
.150
3.950
.180
.200
.350
.700
.550
.400
.250
.150
.230
.250
.460
.500
.400
.850
.200
1.000
.150
.200
.180
1.000
.450
.500
.280
.170
.670

.682
1.160
.450
.426
.682
.750
1.317
.386
.500
.477
.913
.786
.632
.750
.750
.690
.469
.552
.750
.600
.850
.750
.714
.300
.300
.450
.811
.450
.429
.560
.340
.445

Total....................................................

1,467.340

16.080

.658

240.000
40.000
130.000
64.660
100.000
60.000
60.000
20.000
32.000
19.000
40.000
31.000
33.000
80.000
347.370

1.750
.180
.550
1.250
.450
.300
.300
.180
.200
.100
.280
.170
.200
.450
1.430

.438
.270
.254
1.160
.270
.300
.300
.540
.375
.316
.420
.329
.364
.338
.247

slug..................................................

Trim heels.................. ..............................................
Breast........................................................................
Trim edges.................................................................
Joint............................................................................
Organization and general work..............................
Total

100.00
37.50
333.33
428.57
75.00
75.00
250.00
ido. 00
121.65
35.29
157.89
14.46

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

136.36
400.00
300.00
157.89
136.36
500.00
33.33
214.29
250.00
136.36
130.43
142.86
157.89
300.00
500.00
309.00
187.50
120.00
15a 00
is a o o
10a 00
375.00
71.43
20a 00
m oo
25a 00
81.08
100.00
85.71
200.00
200.00
66.42

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Cut throats (surplus leather of quarter lining)...
Inspect..........................................................................
Sock linings..................................................................
Clean and iron, hand........................................
Inktofid................................................................
Dress.............................................................................
Inspect and trim threads..........................................
Button..........................................................................
Rub edges............................................................ *"*"
Brush bottoms...........................................................
Repair...........................................................................
Label cartons............................................... _............
Stamp cartons..................................................... I_.
Pack................................... ...........................................
Organization and general work.............
Total..................................................................

1,297.030

7.790

.360

Grand total.......................................................

14,930.502

128.455

.516




25.00
m oo
46.15
92.79
60.00
100.00
100.00
300.00
187.50
315.79
150.00
193.55
181.82
75.00
17.27

81

ESTABLISHMENT NO. 2.

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M ID -W E S T E R N

D IS T R IC T .

Men’s Goodyear welt, plump tan elk blucher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with
rubber top lift.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Handle material.....................................................................
Selecting patterns for cutters.............................................
Give out work to cutters......................................................
Cut uppers, machine.............................................................
Mate shoes...............................................................................
Cut toe pieces, machine........................................................
Lay out shoes to ticket..........................................................
Tie up shoes............................................................................
Mark tips.................................................................................
Stamp shoes, case number, etc............................................
Stamp box toes, case number, etc.......................................
Skive top and front of quarters............................................
Bevel quarters wide (top and front)...................................
Bevel back and bottom of quarters....................................
Bevel tips.................................................................................
Bevel toes of vamps...............................................................
Bevel throat of v a m p s .-......................................................
Bevel box toes.........................................................................
Split tongues............................................................................
Split backstays.......................................................................
Skive backstays......................................................................
Bevel bottom of tongues......................................................
Perforate tips...........................................................................
Crimp vamps..........................................................................
Count and check shoes........................................................ .
Cut trimmings, machine......................................................
Lav out trimmings to ticket.................................................
Tie up trimmings...................................................................
Cut linings, machine..............................................................
Lay out linings.....................................................................
Mark linings, pricking machine..........................................
Stamp linings, case number, etc..........................................
Check linings..........................................................................
Cut deadheads........................................................................
Carry deadheads.....................................................................
Rush.........................................................................................
S w e e p ....................................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total___

____________

_________________

118.800
20.000
20.000
270.000
35.000
25.000
15.0C0
15.000
1.000
30.000
10.000
65.000
32.000
55.000
15.500
21.500
28.500
25.000
8.000
10.000
30.000
20.000
15.000
35.000
75.000
60.000
15.000
15.000
30.000
10.000
10.000
10.000
5.000
- 40.000
40.000
20.000
22.862
60.000

$1.070
.080
.075
3.310
.320
.360
.125
.110
.003
.275
.080
.250
.125
.330
.080
.125
.165
.125
.110
.070
.140
.070
.110
.275
.345
.370
.140
.095
.170
.100
.125
.110
.020
.300
.150
.075
.133
.990

$0,540
.240
.225
.735
.549
.864
.500
.440
.180
.550
.480
.231
.234
.360
.310
.349
.347
.300
.825
.420
.280
.210
.440
.471
.276
.370
.560
.380
.340
.600
.750
.660
.240
.450
.225
.225
.349
.990

1,333.162

10.906

.491

59.400
40.000
10.000
27.000
100.000
35.000
80.000
30.000
10.000
10.000
15.000
70.500
20.000
30.000
65.000
400.000
25.000
43.000
60.000
25.000
180.000
120.000
40.000
35.000
83.000
70.000
34.000
20.000

.530
.210
.055
.110
.690
.275
.480
.125
.055
.080
.110
.370
.150
.140
.220
2.300
.220
.190
.250
.190
1.240
.895
.180
.140
.620
.550
.275
.125

.535
.315
.330
.244
.414
.471
.360
.250
.330
.480
.440
.315
.450
.280
.203
.345
.528
.265
.250
.456
.413
.448
.270
.240
.448
.471
.485
.375

50.51
300.00
300.00
22.22
171.43
240.00
400.00
400.00
6,000.00
200.00
600.00
92.31
187.50
109.09
387.10
279.07
210.53
240.00
750.00
600.00
200.00
300.00
400.00
171.43
80.00
100.00
400.00
400.00
200.00
600.00
600.00
600.00
1,200.00
150.00
150.00
300.00
262.44
100.00

STITCH G DEPARTMENT.
IN
Handle material.....................................................................
Line vamps..............................................................................
Mate vamps and tips............................................................
Size vamps for tippers...........................................................
Stitch tips, first row..............................................................
Place box toes..........................................................................
Stitch tips, second row........................................................
Trim toe pieces. .....................................................................
Singe tips.................................................................................
Singe vamps............................................................................
Size vamps for vampers........................................................
Close quarters.........................................................................
Rub down back of quarters.................................................
Mark panels.......................................................................... .
Reenforce quarters................................................................
Stitch panels............................................................................
Blind stays..............................................................................
Cement backstays.................................................................
Fold backstays, hand...........................................................
Cement top and front of quarters.......................................
Fold top and front of quarters.............................................
Backstay..................................................................................
Trim quarters..........................................................................
Size quarters...................... ....................................................
Sew on lining side stays........................................................
Sew on lining backstays......................................................
Stitch top bands............................................... ....................
Trim back of linings............... .............................................




101.01
150.00
600.00
222.22
60.00
171.43
75.00
200.00
600.00
600.00
400.00
85.11
300.00
200.00
92.31
15.00
240.00
139.53
100.00
240.00
33.33
. 50.00
150.00
171.43
72.29
85.71
176.47
300.00

82

TIME AND LABOB COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
g—Men’s Goodyear welt, plump tan elk blucher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with
rubber top lift—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded.
Trim top of linings................................................................
Size linings.............................................................................
Line tongues...................... ...................................................
Stitch tops ........................ .....................—............................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Inspect work............................................................................
Stitch tongues, first row........................................................
Seam toes..................................................................................
Trim shoes........................................... ..................................
Match vamps and quarters. ........... .............. .....................
Size quarters for vampers... .................................................
Stiteh tongues, second row...................................................
Vamp....................................... ......................... ........ ...........
Tack............................................................~ ..........................
Lace (“ Ensign” ) ...................................................................
Crown............................... ......................................................
Check out work............. .......................................................
Rush.......................... ..............................................................
Deadheads...................................................... ........................
Get out backstays................ .................................................
Templet linings................. ............................. .....................
Fitting room supplies............................................................
Repair linings.............................................. .........................
Organization...................... —.................................................
Sweep........... ...................... ..................... ...............................
Operate elevators............. ................. ,........ .......................
Total__________ ________

_________________

30.000
10.000
90.000
368.000
39.000
16.000
50.000
45.000
19.000
5.000
25.000
78.000
360.000
70.000
36.000
36.000
80.000
80.000
80.000
20.000
20.000
80.000
20.000
140.000
22.862
22.862

$0.120'
.040
.550
2.110
.210
.055
.410
.190
.070
.020
.100
.320
3.310
.250
.250
.150
.480
.480
.430
.130
.100
.210
.100
1.440
.133
.133

$0,240
,2 4 0

.367
.344
.323
.220
.492
.253
.221
.240
.240
.246
.552
.214
.417
.250
.360
.360
.323
.390
.300
.158
.300
.617
.349
.349

3,578.624

22.566

.378

20.000
60.000
7.000
7.000

.400
.880
.050
.030

1.200
.880
.429
.257

94.000

1.360

.868

20.000
50.000
4.000
5.000

.340
.660
.040
.070

1.020
.792
.600
.840

200.00
600.60
66.67
16*30
153.85
400.00
m oo
133*33
315. 1 9
1,200.00
240.60
76.92
16.67
85.71
166.67
166.67
75.00
75.00
7&60
300.00
300.00
75.00
300.00
42.86
262.44
262.44

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles:
Truck and weigh leather................................... ............
C u t.................................................. ..............................—
Grade, sort, and rack....................... ........... .................
Tie up and count............................... ...........................
Total__________________________________________
Insoles:
Roll and split leather.....................................................
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade, sort, and rack..................... : ................. ............
Lay out insoles to ticket.......................... .......... ..........
Total _ _

_____

Collators, leather1
Box. toes, leather L
Heels, leather l

__ _
__

_____

_____

__

79.000

__________
. _
...

_

___
____

Stock fitting:
Get heels out of stock......................................... ............
Shank outsoles................................................................
Emboss outsoles.............. ................................................
Round insoles...................................................................
Channel insoles............................ ............ .....................
Cement insoles.................................................................
Turn up insole channels................................................
Cut canvas on insoles....................................... ............
Crease eanvas on insoles................................... ...........
Reenforce insoles...... ....................................................
Cut down heels on insole..............................................
Emboss insoles.................................................... ...........
Inspect, size, and tie up insoles....................................
Bale scrap leather..........................................................
Sweep__________________________ _________________
Organization.................................... ...............................

Total_ .

_

_
,r

Total, sole-leather department _ _______

1.118
1.314
1.033
2.147

.496
.545
.559

13.000
16.000
9.000
11.000
35.000
25. C O
O
31.000
15.000
15.000
19.000
10.000
10.000
40.000
20.000
22.862
80.000

.140
.210
.040
.275
.620
.190
.250
.165
.190
.210
.080
.055
.340
.140
.133
1.270

.646
.788
.267
L500
1.063
.456
.484
.660
.760
.663
.480
.330
.510
.420
.349
.953

371.862 1

4.308

.695

1.047.812 1

11.272
-.......... -

300.00
120.00
1,500. 00
1,200.00

.843

158.915
113.788
230.247

300. C
O
100.00
857.14
857.14

.645

I

461.54
375.00
666.67
545.45
171.43
240.00
193.55
400.00
400.00
315.79
600.00
600.00
150 00
300.00
262.41
75.00

* These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




83

ESTABLISHMENT NO. 2,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y D IST R ICT , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 2 .— M e n ’ s

Goodyear welt, pump tan elk blucher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with
rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Get out. lasts
,, r„
, _
____
Get out uppers and ennnters ____ _
_ _ _ __
Tank on insoles
,, ,
_ _
___
Chalk fasts ti , , L
„......
____
Trim insole seats .
r
_
_ _
__
Inspect insoles . *„.....,„ T „ . . . n „
- __
Put away lasts______________________ ______________
Assemble for pnll-nver machine, ... _
____ _
Pub over, machine
.............................. ..... . . .
Aide last, maehine
............................
Operate W-d machine
_
__
Crown_________________________________ ’__________
Deadhead and rush . . .
_. .. . ___
Gobble
. .
.
_
... _
_
_ _
Operate elevators „
.. .
Sweep
_ .. .. . . . . ___ .
Organization
--- _______ _
- - Total

_________________

30.000
12.000
38.000
10.000
20.000
20.000
30.000
20.000
115.000
128.700
180.000
270.000
55.000
30.000
30.000
22.862
22.862
50.000

$0,345
.075
.260
.040
.110
.110
.270
.100
1.450
1.930
2.410
4.130
.630
.170
.310
.133
.133
.670

$0 .690
.375
.411
.240
.330
.330
.540
.300
.756
.900
.803
.918
.687
.3.40
.620
.349
.349
.804

1,084.424

13.276

.735

26.400
26.400
38.300
70.000
15.000
30.000
45.000
25.000
30.000
30.600
30.000
50.400
15.000
35.000
70.000
125.000
30.000
15.000

.220
.220
.385
1.585
.070
.235
.760.320
.290
.165
.210
.210
.060
.550
1.170
2.135
.310
,150

.500
.500
.603
1.359
.280
.470
L013
,768
.580
.250
.420
.250
.240
.943
1.003
1,025
.620
.600

119.05
400.00
171.43
85.71
48.00
200.00
400.00

30.000
30.000
14.000
2a ooo
17.000
68.000
30.000
25,000
35.000
35.000
26.000
31.000
31.000
28.000
28.000
25.000
36.000
37.000
160.000
18.000
22.862
22.862
120.000

.190
.150
.100
. 275
.090
.620
.170
.100
.780
.345
.140
.160
.550
.190
.120
.125
.370
.620
2.690
.110
.133
.133
3.540

.380
.300
.429
.825
.318
.547
. 340
.240
1.337
.591
.323
.310
1.065
.407
.257
.300
.617
1.005
1.009
.367
.349
.349
.770

200.00
200.00
428.57
300.00
352.94
88.24
m oo
m oo
171.43
171.43
230.77
193.55
193.55
214.29
214.29
240.00
166.67
162.16
37.50
333.33
262.44
262.44
50.00

1,605.824

18.746

700

200.00
500.00
157.89
600.00
300.00
300.00
200.00
300.00
52.17
46.62
33.33
22.22
109.09
200.00
200.00
262.44
262.44
128.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim toes_____ . . . . _____________ ____ ______________
Staple uppers
....... ... .
. ...
Pun side taeks_____________________________________
Goodyear welt
.....
.... _ .....
"Raise anehor tanks _
_ ._
.. . ....... .
Pull- insole tanks.. _n .
. . .
_ .
Trim inseams _n _ . ..... . . .
Peat welts
. . .
Joint______________________________________________
Shank.................................................................................
Fill bottoms_______________________________________
Gement ontsoJes__ .
. _ .
Cement bottoms...
_
_ . ...
Ti.ay soles______ ...
_
. .
Rough round______________ ______ _________________
Goodyear stiteh
_
.. .
Gobble
.
......
...............
Groove welts______________________________________
Deadhead and wet up stoek
......
Inspect____________________________________________
Feather foreparts ..
._ .
Nail seats
.............
... ..... .
Trim seats _
___
. ..
____ ...
Travel _
_ _ _
_
.. _ __
Sort for heeler. ______________________________________

Gloss stitches___________________________ ____ ______

TTaaT, leather hasas _
Feed bases
___
Aaud and eetment leather bases_______
___
Get out and eement rnbher heels___
.. ___
Spot rubber heels
_. _______ _ _
Heel, rubber heels
...
... . _
Feed rnbher heels
.
. _
_____
Feather eonneetions... ............ .............. ......... .....
. _
Breast
. . .
.
_
_
.
Trim heels
Trim edges
Gobble aud inspect,
.
„r_______
Sweep
___ ___
__
Operate elevators__ _ . ___
_
. . . .
Organization___
___
_ .
Total

T „„„„




T

^

__

227.27
227.27
156.66
85.71,
400.00
200.00
133. $1
240.00
200.00
151.52
m oo

84

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D • W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Men’s Goodyear welt, plump tan elk blueher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with
rubber top lift—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

28.000
26.000
27.000
26.000
36.000
23.000
141.000
23.000
14.000
% 10.000
17.000
28.000
16.800
36.000
20.000
20.000
60.000
17.000
23.000
15.000
22.862
22.862
2a 000

$0,275
.440
.300
.345
.370
.210
2.690
.125
.060
.055
.290
.220
.140
.480
.300
.080
.690
.070
.276
.070
.133
.133
.460

$0,589
1.015
.667
.796
.617
.548
1.145
.326
.257
.330
1.024
.471
.500
.800
.900
.240
.828
.247
.717
.280
.349
.349
1.380

. ___

662.524

8.211

.744

Out tacks............... .................................................................
.Pad heels................- ................................................................
Bum threads......... .................................................................
Tree, hand..................................................................... ..........
Emboss top facings................1..............................................
Iron tongues.........................- ..................................................
Polish uppers...........................................................................
Brush heels...............................................................................
Press top facings.....................................................................
Repair................. ......................................................................
Clean linings............................................................................
Rag edges......... ....................................................................
Mark cartons...........................................................................

82.800
52.800
18.000
195.000
17.000
35.000
50.000
15.000
20.000
40.000
30.000
15.000
20.000
* 25.000
70.000
20.000
20.000
266.640
22.862
22.862
40.000

.345
.220
.100
1.340
.080
.165
.235
.080
.210
.410
.120
.190
.100
.190
.550
.100
.100
.133
.133
.620

.250
.250
.333
.412
.282
.283
.282
.320
.630
.615
.240
.760
.300
.456
.471
.300
.300
.450
.349
.349
.930

1,077.964

7.421

.413

10,390.334

92.398

.534

Repair and straighten heels..................................................
Scour heels, first time............................................................
Sand breasts...................... j....................................................
Beat seats..................................................................................
Scour heels, second time.......................................................
Dope heels............................... ...............................................
Set edges...................................................................................
Inspect................................ - ....................................................
Change shoes on rack..................................... ......................
Inspect......................................................................................
Scour heels, third time..........................................................
Ink heels...................................................................................
Align breasts............................................................................
Stain bottoms............................................... —.......................
Finish bottoms........................................................................
Clean bottoms.........................................................................
Burnish heels...........................................................................
Cut strings..............................................................................
Pull lasts...................................................................................
Stamp bottoms................................................................
Sweep......................- ................................................................
Operate elevators...................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total _

_ _

___

________

214.29
230.77
222.22
230.77
166.67
26a 87
42.55
260.87
428.57
600.00
352.94
214.29
357.14
166.67
300.00
300.00
120.00
352.94
260.87
400.00
262.44
262.44
300.00

TREEING AND PACFING DEPARTMENT.

Pack...........................................................................................
Running errands.....................................................................
Pushing racks.........................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Operate elevators................................................................
Organization............... ............. ................... ..........................
Total

r

T

r__

_

_ _
_

_

Grand total_____________________________________




2.000

72.46
113.64
333.33
30.77
352.94
171.43
120.00
400.00
300.00
150.00
200.00
400.00
300.00

24aC
O

85.71
300.00
300.00
22.50
262.44
262.44
150.00

ESTABLISHMENT NO, 8.

85

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 8 . —Men’s

Goodyear welt cordovan, russia calf blucher, 9£ iron leather sole, 4/8 leather
heel base with rubber top lift.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Stock-room work.....................................................................
Cut shoes, machine............* .................................................
Skive tops.................................................................................
Skive vamps............................................................................
Skive tips..................................................................................
Skive backstays.......................................................................
Skive vamp toes.....................................................................
Punch tips...............................................................................
Cut linings, machine..............................................................
Cut vamps, doubler..............................................................
Cut Quarters, doubler............................................................
Stamp linings...........................................................................
Cut backstays, hand............................................................
Cut side stays, hand..............................................................
Cut heel stays, hand..............................................................
Cut facings, hand...................................................................
Skive heels stay.......................................................................
Skive tongues..........................................................................
Skive side stays.......................... ............................... ............
Skive side-stay ends...............................................................
Skive facings............................................................................
Skive facing ends....................................................................
Mark tops......................................................... ^.....................
Cement and join side stays...................................................
Selecting patterns for cutters...............................................
Sort (vamps, etc.)...................................................................
Back...........................................................................................
Assemble..................................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization.............................................................................

132.000
400.000
96.000
27.000
10.000
30.000
15.000
34.000
43.000
22.000
63.000
40.000
24.000
100.000
24.000
60.000
30.000
20.000
60.000
35.000
35.000
30.000
62.000
60.000
22.000
117.000
131.000
66.000
22.000
110.000

$1,260
6.380
.740
.180
.150
.210
.190
.150
.600
.350
.300
.300
.250
.820
.250
.750
.210
.150
.420
.300
.290
.190
.600
.700
.110
2.930
.660
.390
.186
1.430

$0,573
.957
.463
.400
.900
.420
.760
.265
.837
.955
.286
.450
.625
.492
.625
.750
.420
.450
.420
.514
.497
.380
.581
.700
.300
1.503
.302
.355
.507
.780

Total...............................................................................

1,920.000

21.446

.670

22.000
41.000
41.000
25.000
27.000
50.000
50.000

.210
.310
.700
.350
.240
.300
.450

45.45
15.00
62.50
222.22
600.00
200.00

400.00
176.47
139.53
272.73
95.24
150.00
250.00
60.00
250.00
100.00
200.00

300.00
100.00

171.43
171.43
200.00

96.77
100.00

272.73
51.28
45.80
90.91
272.73
54.55

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Stock-room work.....................................................................
Close tops.................................................................................
Close lining to backstay.......................................................
Close pieced top facing..........................................................
Rub tops...................................................................................
Paste eyelet stays...................................................................
Paste side linings.....................................................................
Cement tops............................................................................
Fold tops..................................................................................
Stitch arch supports............................................................
Stitch eyelet rows...................................................................
Stitch side stays......................................................................
Stitch facings...........................................................................
Stitch tongue linings..............................................................
Stitch backstays....................................................................
Stitch box and tips.................................................................
Stitch edges, linings, and tops.............................................
Stitch tongues..........................................................................
H ook........................................................................................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Trim blucher throats.............................................................
Trim vamp linings.................................................................
Ink edges..................................................................................
Size and match tops and linings..........................................
Size and match tops and vamps..........................................
Vamp........................................................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Repair.......................................................................................
Inspect tips..............................................................................
Inspect shoes............................................................................
Floor help.................................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization...................—.....................................................
Tntal




2 a 000

.2 0 0

83.000
40.000
188.000
83.000
72.000
47.000
167.000
93.000
188.000
72.000
35.000
31.000
40.000
15.000
63.000
25.000
24.000
250.000
30.000
17.000
44.000
.32.000
80.000
132.000
22.000
44.000

1.170
.450
.720
.750
.530
2.080
1.520
2.480
.600
.250
.480
.230
.110
.500
.440
.330
4,100
.360
.200
.546
.190
•500
1,310
.186
.880

.573
.454
1.024
.840
.533
.360
.540
.600
.846
.675
.638
.520
.625
.677
.747
.981
.791
.500
.429
.929
.345
.440
.476
1.056
.825
.984
.720
.706
.745
.356
.375
.595
.507
1.200

2,193.000

25.672

.702

2.000

272.73
146.34
146.34
240.00
222.22
120.00
120.00

300.00
72.29
150.00
. 31.91
72.29
83.33
127.66
35.93
64.52
31.91
83.33
171.43
193.55
150.00
400.00
95.24
240.00
250.00
24.00
200.00
352.94
136.36
187.50
75.00
45.45
272.73
136.36
Esssssssacaa

86

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS O F SHOES I N 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.

Extateizhment Nor. 8.— Men’s Goodyear welt cordovan, russia call blacker, 9$ iron leather sole, 4/8leather
heel base with rubber top lift— Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles:
Weigh leather...................................................................
cpt
.. ... ..........
Grade.................................................................................
Sort...............................................................................—
Case............................- ................................................... Total _

______

Insoles:
c u t.....................................................................................
Grade.................................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Case...... ..................................................................... .......
Total

...

_

..

_

.......
_ _T
_

Stock fitting:
Round insoles...................................................................
Stamp insoles....................................................................
Channel insoles................................................. .............
Cement economy insoles................................................
Gut and crease canvas...................................................
Buff insoles.......................................................................
Turn up insoles...............................................................
Reenforce insoles................................................ ..........
Inspect insoles____ _______________________________
Case and tie......................................................................
Check and label...............................................................
Reduce shanks.................................................................
Cement and tie outsoles.................................................
Stamp outsoles................................................................
Trim scrap........................................................................
Bag stock...........................................................................
Operate elevators............................................................
Sweep....................... - ............ .................... ....................
Sand heel bases...... .....................................................
Spot heels..........................................................................
Sand breasts........................................................ ............
Case and count heels.......................... A .........................
Organization........................................................ _..........
Tntal____________

_

_______

________

22.000
57.000
14.000
40.000
26.000

$0150
.680
.120
.470
.400

$0,409
.716
.514
.705
.923

159.000

_ .

Conwtors, leather 1
Boar toes, leather l

Hourly
wages.

L 820

.687

57.000
14.000
40.000
13.000

.620
.120
.420
.110

.653
.514
.630
. 508

124.000

1.270

.615

158.915
113.788
230.247

1.314
L 033
2.147

.496
.545
.559

15.000
13.000
26.000
13.000
26.000
.13.000
26.000
36.000
30.000
13.000
13.000
13.000
19.000
22.000
22.000
22.000
22.000
22.000
13.000
19.000
13.000
44.000
88.000

.190
.100.400
. 160
.220
.120
.230
.220
.250
.150
.140
.140
.150
.140
.170
.150
.115
.186
.110
.150
.170
.400
1.290

.760
.462
.983
.738
.508
.554
.531
.367
.500
.692
.646
.646
.474
.382
.464
.409
.314
. 507
.508
.474
.785
.545
.880

__

272.73
105.26
428.57
150.00
230.77

105.26
428.57
150.00
461.54

■ a g a 'J
a
''"'

543.000

5.351
12.935

.584

40.000
20.000
64.000
80.000
60.000
74.000
192.000
60.000
32.000
22.000
32.000

.500
. 250
1.120
1.600
.800
1.600
3.500
.730
.200
.186
.480

.750
.750
1.050
1.200
.800
1.297
1.094
.730
.375
.507
.900

10.966

.973

16.000
40.000
40.000
74.000
27.000
21000

.150
.300
.450
1.600
.400
.400

.563
.450
.675
L297
.889
LQQQ

400.06
461.54
230 77
461.54
230.77
461.54
230v 77
166.67
m oo
461.54
461.54
461.54
315. 79
272.73
272.73
272.73
272.73
272.73
461.54
315 79
461.54
136.36
68.18

.591

1,328.950

676.000

T o ta l, sale-leather dep artm en t

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Pick lasts..................................................................................
Tack insoles............................................................. ...............
Assemble for pull-over machine. A ......................................
PUD over, machine..................................................................
Draft sides................................................................................
Side last, machine..............................................................—
Operate bed machine. ............................. .................. .........
Inspect.......................................................................... ............
Floes* work........ ............. .......................................... ............
Sweep...............................- .......................................................
Organization........ .......... .......................... .............................
T otal..

150 00
300.09
93.75
75.00
100 00
81.08
31.25
100 60
187.56
272 73
187.50

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Trim toes......................................................................... ........
S t o l e - ......................................................................................
Pmr leeks
, T1 _
T.
_
. ..
Goodyear welt.........................................................................
Trim inseams...........................................................................
Butt welts________ _________ ______ _________ _____ _

375.00
150 00
15000
81.08
222 22
250.00

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




E S T A B L IS H M E N T H O . 8.

87

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

8.—Men’s Qoodyear welt cordovan, russia calf blucher, 9$ iron leather sole, 4/8 leather
heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

bottoming depabtment—concluded.
Butt tacks..................................................... ..........................
Pull insole tacks.................. ...................................................
Beat welts.................................................................................
Stick shanks.............................................................................
Fill bottoms.............................................................................
Cement welts...........................................................................
Wet soles..................................................................................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Nail seats.................................................................................
Rough round............................................................................
Trim seats................................................................................
Open channels_______ __________ _________ ___________
Goodyear stitch.......................................................................
Cement channels................................................................... _
Close channels........................................................................
Separate stitches.....................................................................
Level.........................................................................................
Pick heels___ 1 .........................................................................

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

$0,667
.750
.556
• .600
.622
.600
.750
.889
.556
1.172
.422
.600
.986
.540
.750
.700
.563
.600
1.125
.450
1.125
.500
1.095
1.000
1.088
.507
.919

17.996

.848

20.000
48.000
80.000
32.000
20.000
53.000
24.000
20.000
48.000
74.000
32.000
80.000
40.000
32.000
32.000
22.000
22.000
32.000

.250
.650
1.350
.300
.170
.650
.250
.200
.600
.850
.300
.700
.350
.400
.200
.115
.186
.450

.750
.813
1.013
.563
.510
.736
.625
.600
.750
.689
.563
.525
.525
.750
.375
.314
.507
.844

711.000

Total_____

$0,300
.250
.250
.200
.280
.200
.200
.400
.250
1.250
.190
.200
2.250
.180
.250
.700
.450
.200
.750
.300
.750
.200
2.500
.450
.580
.186
.980

1,274.000

Feed heels.................................................................................
Trim heels........ .......................................................................
Fill heels...................................................................................
Trim edges...............................................................................
Joint............... ..........................................................................
Cobble.......................................................................................
Sweep........................................................... ...........................
Organization........................................................ ..................

27.000
20.000
27.000
20.000
27.000
20.000
16.000
27.000
27.000
64.000
27.000
20.000
137.000
20.000
20.000
60.000
48.000
20.000
40.000
40.000
40.000
24.000
137.000
27.000
32.000
22.000
64.000

7.971

.673

40.000
32.000
32.000
27.000
96.000
96.000
120.000
53.000
40.000
60.000
40.000
27.000
66.000
22.000
32.000
783.000

.240
.300
.250
.130
1.500
.900
1.050
.450
.250
.730
.220
.220
.760
.186
.500
7.686

.360
150.00
.563
187.50
.469
187.50
.289
222.22
.938
62.50
62.50
.563
.5255a 00
.509
113.21
.375
150.00
.730
100.00
.330
150.00
222.22
.489
.691
90.91
272.73
.507
187.50
.938
.589 1
................

8,885.950

104.672

222.22
300.00
222.22
300.00
222.22
300.00
375.00
222.22
222.22
93.75
222.22
300.00
43.80
300.00
300.00
100.00
125.00
300.00
150.00
150.00
150.00
250.00
43.80
222.22
187.50
272.73
93.75
---------—

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Scour breasts............................................................................
Scour heels................................................................................
Set edges, first time ........ ..................................................
Stain edges, first time...... .....................................................
Size heels.............. .......................... ........................................
Set edges, second time............................................................
Smooth heels................................................................... ........
Stain heels................................................................................
Burnish heels...........................................................................
Sand bottoms.........................................................- ................
Gum bottoms..:.....................................................................
Roll bottoms............................................................................
Clean uppers............................................................................
Pull lasts..................................................................................
Floor work...............................................................................
Operate elevators................. ......... .................. ..................
Sweep.................................................... ...................................
Organization..................... . ............................ ......................
Total.

-

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Feel tacks.................................................................................
Stamp bottoms.......................................................................
Sock linings.. ............... ........................................................
Emboss.....................................................................................
Iron or tree, hand...................................................................
Repair..................................................................................... :
Dress.......... ..............................................................................
B r u sh ......................................................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Mark cartons...........................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Ship...........................................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization..........................................................................
Total___________________________________________
Grand total




_ _ ______

_

_ .... __ _

.707

,

300.00
125.00
75.00
187.50
300 00
113.21
250.00
300.00
125.00
81.08
187.50
75.00
150.00
187.50
187.50
272.73
272.73
187.50

88

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT.

•TIME A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 14 —

Women’s McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, wood heel with leather top lift.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Cut uppers, hand_____________________________________
Chit, linings, leather, hand
_ _ __ _
Cut toe linings, hand
..................
Stamp uppers____ _*__________________________________
Pta™P lirimgs,, T _ _ _
. . . . . . .
Skive*uppers..........................................................................
Organization_________________________ ________________

360.000
240.000
45.000
60.000
45.000
90.000
240.000

$5,000
2.250
.450
.450
.270
.680
4.200

$0,834
.563
.600
.450
.360
.453
1.050

T o t a l -...........................................................................

1,080.000

13.300

.739

STITCH
ING DEPARTMENT.
Close linings
r
Ptay linings, . ......................
Sew in drill__________ * _______________________________
_
Lap seams, '
- .. _
___
Sew in nnnslips _.
Close covers________ _____ ______________________ _ __
_
Stitch vamp linings___________________________________
Press seams
„
........
Close uppers
_
r ..
_ .
ptay uppers
-..........._
_
........
Cement quarters
.- .
Cement linings_______________________________________
Cement vamps_______________________________________
Fold quarters_________________________________________
Fold vamps___________________________________________
Work buttonholes____________________________________
Pew on buttons . ..
Kit
......
Vamp________________________________________________
Stitch tops____________________________________________
Ptfteh French binding
Fold Freneh binding, machine. _
...
Reinforce buttons and buttonholes. .
..........
Sort and tie up________________________________________
Organization _
_

60.000
30.000
60.000
60.000
100.000
30.000
30.000
30.000
45.000
45.000
30.000
30.000
30. G O
O
65.000
65.000
60.000
45.000
180.000
360.000
240.000
330.000
240.000
75.000
60.000
120.000

.460
.230
.450
.450
.750
.230
.180
.250
.310
.310
.230
.180
.180
.590
.590
.450
.350
1.500
3.000
2.000
2.750
2.000
.640
.540
1.800

.460
.460
.450
.450
.450
.460
.360
.500
.413
.413
.460
.360
.360
.545
.545
.450
.467
.500
.500
.500
.500
.500
.512
.540
.900

_T .

2,420.000

2d 420

.506

Outsoles, leather 1 ...............
_.
.................. .
Insoles, leather 1 .
. .
Counters, leather i .
.......
_____
Top pieces, leather 1
,
Box toes, leather1_____________________________________

84.111
110.404
158.915
55.330
113.788

.892
1.069
1.314
.587
1.033

.*637
.581
.496
.636
.545

Stock fitting:
Round soles
Channel soles
.
Stamp soles . . .
. . .
Rhanlr
_ _ .
_ ......
General all-round work
_.
Organization
_
*

30.000
35.000
15.000
40.000
180.000
120.000

.250
.330
.140
.350
3.780
2.000

.500
.566
.560
.525
1.260
1.000

Total

_

- .

. .

.

,

•

16.67
25.00
133.33
100.00
133.33
66.67
25.00

100.00
200.00
100.00
100.00
60.00
200.00
200.00

m oo

133.33
133.33
200.00
200.00
200.00
92.31
92.31
100.00
133.33
33.33
16.67
25.00
18.18
25.00
8a 00
100.00
50.00

’ SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

_
.
_ .
_

_ _ _
_ _

T o ta l.

420.000

6.850

.979

T o ta l, sole-leather d ep a rtm en t.

942.548

11.745

7m

200.00
171.43
400.00
150.00
33.33
50.00
_

i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 14

89

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

1 .—Women's
4

McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, wood heel with leather top
lift—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

60.000
90.000
90.000
160.000
30.000
30.000
25.000
15.000
20.000
50.000
25.000
50.000
120.000
140.000
60.000

$1,200
1.800
1.750
2.750
.350
.350
.250
.150
.200
.500
.250
.550
1.250
1.500
1.000

$1,200
1.200
1.167
1.100
.700
.700
.600
.600
.600
.600
.600
.660
.625
.643
1.000

955.000

13.850

.870

McKay sew.............................................................................
Nail seats..................................................................................
Wet up......................................................................................
Wet............................................................: ..............................
Sort for leveler........................................................................
Cement channels....................................................................
Turn up leaf..........................................................................
Turn down leaf.......................................................................
Wet for leveler. .....................................................................
Level........................................................................................
Relast.......................................................................................
Trim edges...............................................................................
Trim edge of top lifts.............................................................
Trim shanks............................................................................
Cover wood heels....................................................................
Fit seats for wood heels.......................................... .............
Tack wood heels.....................................................................
Glue and nail wood heels......................................................
Trim and sand........................................................................
Organization............................................................................

60.000
30.000
15.000
15.000
15.000
30.000
15.000
15.000
15.000
60.000
90.000
60.000
60.000
60.000
420.000
120.000
105.000
120.000
60.000
180.000

.810
.230
.140
.180
.140
.360
.240
.230
.180
.900
1.250
1.250
1.000
1.000
4.500
1.800
1.360
1.800
.900
3.000

.810
.460
.560
.720
.560
.720
.960
.920
.720
.900
.833
1.250
1.000
1.000
.643
.900
.771
.900
.900
1.000

Total...............................................................................

1,545.000

21.260

.826

Finish heels.............................................................................
Set edges...................................................................................
Set edges of top lift.................................................................
Sand bottoms............. ............................................................
Finish bottoms........................................................................
Trim and beat shanks...........................................................
Cut off covers..........................................................................
Wheel bottoms and pull lasts..............................................
Organization............................................................................

450.000
120.000
60.000
110.000
120.000
120.000
90.000
45.000
60.000

7.650
1.620
.900
1.610
1.630
2.000
1.130
.590
.900

1.020
.810
.900
.878
.815
1.000
.753
.787
.900

Total...............................................................................

1,175.000

18.030

.921

230.000
100.000
60.000
60.000
30.000
30.000
45.000
60.000
120.000
120.000
60.000

2.250
.910
.900
.450
.230
.230
.330
.450
1.000
1.200
.900

.587
.546
.900
.450
.460
.460
.440
.450
.500
.600
.900

Assemble for pullers-over, machine.....................................
Pull over, machine...... ...........................................................
Side last, machine...................................................................
Operate bed machine.............................................................
Tack insoles........................ ...................................................
Pull lasts...................................................................................
Get out lasts............................................................................
Put away lasts.........................................................................
Bring up stock.........................................................................
Pound toes...............................................................................
Pull tacks.................................................................................
Fill shanks................................................. .............................
Tack outsoles...........................................................................
Cover_________________________________________________
Organization............................................................................
Total___________________________________________

100.00
66.67
66.67
40.00
200.00
20

a 00

240.00
400.00

30 0
0 .0

120.00
240.00
120.00

50 0
.0

100.00

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

100.00
200.00
400.00
400.00
400.00
200.00
400.00
400.00
400.00
100.00
66.67
100.00
100.00
100.00
14.29
50.00
57.14
60.00
100.00
33.33

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

13.33
50.00
100.00
54.55
50.00
50.00
66.67
133.33
100.00

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Tree, hand...............................................................................
Sock linings and cleaning linings........................................
Ink edges..................................................................................
Brush bottoms........................................................................
Button......................................................................................
Reeds........................................................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Pack and mark cartons.........................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total..............................................................................

915.000

8.850

.580

Grand total_____________________________________

9,032.548

107.455

.714




26.09
60.00
100.00
100.00
20

a 00

200.00
133.33
100.00
50.00
50.00
100.00

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS— M ID-WESTERN DISTRICT,

90

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS I N T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF m PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 7 .—

Women’s McKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole,
cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift.

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Stock clerk
_ _ __
_ _ __
Stock clerk's helper
_
Selecting pattern's for cutters ___
_
_ „
Out vamps and whole shoes, hand
Stamp uppers-_______________________________________
Give out fancy stitch tracings

......

Stkhra uppers ‘
____ _ _ .
......
s o r t - . ; . : _____________ _______________________________
Die out rubber backing_______________________________
Die out fancy cut-outs________________________________
Strip (iron rubber backings . .
m. . . . . . .
...
Aasemihle uppers
....
, .
Chitting cripples. , r
Sort stock for trimmings....
....... . ._
Cut doublers, hand.
.. .
.
_ _
Outlinings, hand
_
_
Case linings
.. ..
. .. .
Cut trimming*, hand .
_______ __
. . .
................ -Sort trimmings
Sort sock linings.. _ .
_
Stamp linings
_ . „ _
Assemble trimmings__________________ _______________
Cut back shoe trimmings . .
. ___ . _ .. ..
Oreanization
_
_
Total

_________

_____

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.
Assemble
- .
Gloae lin in g s.__ ________________________ ____________
Rub down lining.seams ..
. .
......
fltitcb nonslips
..
. .
. .„
_ _
Lap linings
..
_
.......
Stitch to« pieces „... .
___ . . .
rttnee quarters
.............. .
_
Stay quarters
_
___ .
_
___ _ __
_
Reinforce for buttons and buttonholes
. ..
Cement tongue underlays_____________________________
Stitch tongues, fancy
_
Trim underlays
.. ..
. . . . . . . ...
Stitch tongue collars___ ________________________ ____
Gement. bottom of tongue collars
... .....
_
Fold'bottom. of tongue collars ... _ _ ___ ......
___
Double, v a m p ...............
Mato vamps
_ __ .... .............
Mating for -Campers __ _ . . .
. , ,
Vamp
... r . T
Bind............. ...........................................................................
Give ont inlay, work
...-.
Lay in lipinga for inseamers . _ .. ... .. __
_
. _
Stiteb pumps__ .
Stitch buckram in lining. _
_ . . _
Make hnttnnhnles
Trim linings _ __
. . .
Sew buttons . . .
Trim a^d button
.
. . .
shoes
. .
_.
Inspect
.......
Mend,
....
_ _
shoe work
Floor work ___ ________ _____________________________
Folder teacher... . _
. ..
...........
Orcanization.
___________ ___________ __ _ ____
Total___-




.

______ __

Hourly
wages.

27.778
12.444
12.664
458.333
41.667
125.000
12.198
11.990
55.556
55.556
11.737
111. Ill
250.000
125.000
11.313
12.713
13.889
19.444
8.333
305.556
41.667
12. 714
36! Ill
12.712
13.200
50.856

$0,382
.078
.106
7.639
.281
.972
.083
.083
.486
.764
.069
.694
1.389
.833
.156
.175
.172
.347
.057
1.917
.206
.053
.222
.080
.110
1.204

$ft825
.376
.502
1.000
.465
.467
.408
.415
.525
.825
.353
.375
.333
.400
.827
.826
.743
1.071
.410
.376
.297
.250
.369
.378
.500
1.420

1,849.542

18.558.

.602

8.333
27.778
13.889
69.444
97.222
41.667
16.667
41.667
19.444
66.067
166.667
33.333
25.000
30.556
86. Ill
25.000
8.333
13.889
263.889
111. Ill
5,556
13,889
175.000
69.444
27.778
47.222
13.889
41.667
25.428
33.333
25.428
50.856
63.570
12.714
127.282

.042
.181
.069
.625
.833
.522
.250
.278
.175
.556
1.389
.181
.167
.278
.556
.167
.056
.083
4.861
1.944
.056
. 139
2.583
- .694
.250
.164
.167
.294
.089
.400
.150
.292
.243
.097
1.163

.302
.391
.298
.540
.514
.752
.900
.400
.540
.500
.500
.326
.401
• .546
.387
.401
.403
.359
1.105
1.050
.605
.600
.886
.600
.540
.208
.721
.423
.210
.720
.354
.345
.229
.458
.548

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

1,899. 723

19.994
= 5
S

.631

216.00
482.16
473.78
13.09
144.00
48.00
491.88
500.42
108.00
108.00
51L20
54.00
24.00
48.00
530.36
471.95
432.00
308.58
720.03
19.64
144.00
471.92
166.15
471.99
454.55
117.98

720.03
216,00
432.00
86.40
61.71
144.00
359.99
144.00
308.58
90.00
36.00
180.00
240. C
O
196.36
69.68
240.00
720.03
432. G
O
22.74
54.00
1,079.91
432.00
34.29
86.40
216.00
127.06
432.00
144.00
235.96
180.00
235.96
117.98
94; 38
471.92
47; 14

91

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 17<

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 192a,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPE RATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women's McKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole,
cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift— Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 17 —

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
Cut............................ - .....................................................
Grade........................- - ......................... —...................
Sort............................... .....................................................
Rack....... ...........................................................................
Case.......... .........................................................................
General work....................................................................
Tnt.al

39.000
14.170
44.620
7.240
14.580
15.750

$0,519
.100
.502
.051
.156
.170

$0,798
.423
.675
.423
.642
.648

135.360

1.498

.664

Insoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade........- ........................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Rack...................................................................................
Case................................... ...............................................
General work............................................ ......................

38.880
10.500
58.770
2.620
14.580
12.350

.413
.038
.472
.023
.123
.061

.637
.217
.482
.527
.506
.296

_______________

137.700

1.130

. 492

43.232
10.500
8.070
18.750
11.660
2.540
15.440
49.490

.474
.133
.078
.175
.108
.015
.124
.337

.658
.760
.580
.560
.556
.354
.482
.409

159. 682

1.444

.543

113. 788

1.033

.545

240.000
48.600
21.000

2.000
.340
.200

.500
.420
.571

309.600

2.540

.492

13.889
16.667
13.889
5.833
13.889
15.681

.132
.133
.139
.056
.144

22.222

19.444
15.278
16. 667
11.111
15.278
8.333
16.667
16.667
13.&89
15.440
25.428

.175
.175
.106
.153
.106
.189
.061
.167
.156
.110
.124
.333

.570
.479
.600
.576
.622
.849
.473
.540
.416
.551
.572
.742
.439
.601
.562
.475
.482
.786

276.272

2.681

.582

10.326,[

153.85
423.43
134.47
828.73
411.52
380.95

.547

Total

_

_________________

Counters:
Cut.....................................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Skive............ .....................................................................
Mold...................................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Back....................................................................................
Fit stock...........................................................................
General work....................................................................
Total

__________

Bnr toes, leather 1

_

*

Heels:
Cut heel lifts, sort, etc........................................ ..........
Build heels........................................................................
Tack rands................. ... .................................................
Total

_____

Stock fitting:
Assemble stock................................................................
Temper stock....................................................................
Sand outsoles...................................................................
Stamp outsoles.................................................................
Round outsoles..................................................... .........
Channel outsoles................................. ...........................
Flesh outsoles............. — ................................................
Shank out (moek turn).................................................
Mold outsoles....................................................................
Turn channels..................................................................
Ink fudge edge of soles....................................................
Round insoles...................................................................
Score and dip insoles.....................................................
Feather edge insoles........................................................
Put on heel pieces.................................................... .......
Crown and assemble.......................................................
General work, insoles......................................................
Organization.................................. .............................. .
Tntal

Total, sole-leather department__________________

1,132.402 |

.222

154.32
573'. 43
102.09
2,29tt 08
411.52
485.83

138.79
571.43
743.49
320.00
514.58
2,362. 20
388.60
121.24

1

25.00
123.46
285.71

432.00
359.99
432.00
1,028.63
432 00
382.63
270.00
308.58
392. 72
359.99
540.01
392 72
720.00
359.99
359.99
432.00
388.60
235.96

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




92

t im e a n d l a b o r c o st s —

MID-WESTERN d is t r ic t .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023.
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

17.—Women’s M cKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole,
cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost,
(minutes). of 100 pairs

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Assemble uppers and lasts....................................................
Sort lasts...................................................................................
Assemble insoles, counters, and box toes..........................
Give out work.........................................................................
Assemble for pull-over machine...........................................
Pull over, machine.............................................................
Side last, machine...................................................................
Operate bed machine. ..........................................................
Knock tacks.............................................................................
Pound up..................................................................................
Tack shanks.............................................................................
Fill bottoms............................................................................
Tack soles.................................................... ...........................
Pull lasts...................................................................................
Pull paper covers....................................... ...........................
Crown.......................................................................................
Back shoe work.......................................................................
Floor work................................................... .................i ........
Cobble.......................................................................................
Organization.............................................................................

$0,116
.222
.083
.121
2.278
1.389
1.667
3.139
.139
.347
.194
.097
.694
.347
.065
.208
.108
.068
.132
.375

$0,501
.685
.359
.571
.600
.833
.766
.779
.600
.625
.419
.419
.500
.500
.281
.408
.510
.321
.623
.885

1,081.841

Total. .................... .

13.889
19.444
13.889
12.714
227.778
100.000
130.556
241.667
13.889
33.333
27.778
13.889
83.333
41.667
13.889
30.556
12.714
12. 714
12,714
25.428

11.789

.654

*12.714
41.667
12.714
19.444
69.444
11. I ll
8.333
13.889
11. Ill
55.556
36. Ill
36. Ill
11. Ill
12.714

33.333
144.444
25.428

.073
.208
.062
.176
.972
.139
.078
.167
.067
.556
.522
.181
.074
.086
.122
.433
.417
.294
.347
1.833
.386

.345
.300
.293
.543
.840
.751
.562
.721
.362
.600
.867
.301
.400
.406
.329
.468
.500
.794
.625
.761
.911

705.235

7.193

.612

19.444
33.333
12.714
41.667
13.889
125.000
13.889
12.714
30.656

.244
.278
.082
.361
.208
1.667
.181
.386
.347
.194
.167
.625
.069
.250
.486
.083
.347
.383
.156

.753
.500
.387
.520
.899
.800
.782
1.822
.681
.524
.401
.675
.373
.675
.583
.448
.681
.827
•842

432.00
308.58
432.00
471.92
26.34
60.00
45.96
24.83
432.00
180.00
216.00
432.00
72.00
144.00
432.00
196.36
471.92
471.92
471.92
235.96

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Wet up for M cKay sewers...................................................
Cement heel and rubber tips...............................................
Cement heel bases........................................... .......................
Nail heel seats.-............................. .......................... .........
M cKay sew.............................................................................
Break soles...............................................................................
Cement........................ ................................................. ..........
Wet up......................................................................................
Level.......................................................................................
Heel...........................................................................................
Feed heels.......................... ........................... —.....................
Crown and cement rubber heels.........................................
Cobble......................................................................................
Set up lasts..............................................................................
Relast............................................. - .........................................
Trim heels................................................... ...........................
Breast heels...................................................... ......................
Joint..........................................................................................
Trim edges...............................................................................
Organization...........................................................................
Total_________________________

___

22.222

55.556
50.000

22.222

47L92
144.00
471.92
308.58
86.40

54ft 01
72a 00
54a 01

432.00
108.00
166.15

16a 15
540.01

471.92
270.00
108.00

120.00

27a 00

180.00
41.54

235.96

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour breasts............................................................................
Scour heels, first'time............................................................
Fill holes in heels.............. .....................................................
Dope heels................................................................................
Ink edges..................................................................................
Set edges........................................................ J.........................
Brush edges..............................................................................
Cobble.......................................................................................
Scour heels, second and third times...................................
Enamel heels, first time..........^................. ........................
Scour heels, fourth time.....................- .................................
Sand bottoms.......................................................... ...............
Brush dust..............................................................................
Enamel heels, second time...................................................
Stain bottoms..........................................................................
Brush bottoms........................................................................
Polish bottoms........... ............ ................................................
Burnish heels...........................................................................
Pull Ifcsts...................................................................................




22.222

25.000
55.556
11. Ill

22.222

50.000
11. Ill
30.556
27.778

11.111

308.58

18a 00

471.92
144.00
432.00
48.00

432.00

471.92

19a 36
27a 00
24a 00
108.00
64a 01
27a 00

m oo

64a 01

19a 36

2

iao o

64a 01

93

ESTABLISHMENT NO. 19.

TJME A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t , N o . 1 7 .—

Women’s McKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole,
cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Throw lasts to bins...........................................................
Stamp bottoms.................................................................
Ink and enamel heels........................................................
Push racks.........................................................................
Back shoe work.................................................................
Organization......................................................................

12.714
11. Ill
12. 714
.12.714
12.714
12.714

$0,053
.097
.106
.072
.053
.188

$0,250
.524
.500
.340
.250
.887

Total........................................................................

644.554

7.083

.659

50.000
16.667
8.333
105.556
22.222
69.444
156.944
.116.667
♦ 50.000
13.000
8.333
27.778
525.000
83.333
8.333
12.714
113.889
5.556
5.556
12.714
12.714

.208
.058
.083
.417
.194
.261
3.194
1.237
.269
.139
.039
.135
3.561
.568
.054
.087
.046
.053
.096
.188

.250
.209
.598
. 237
.524
.226
1.221
.636
.323
.642
.281
.292
.407
.409
.389
.411
.409
.497
.572
.453
.887

1,424.753

11.663

.406

8,738.050

86.606

.595

471.92
540.01
471.92
471.92
471.92
471.92

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Trim out uppers...............................................................
Inspect packs....................................................................
Ink upper edges................................................................
Take out papers................................................................
Sock linings.......................................................................
Tree, hand.........................................................................
Iron out............................................................................
Emboss sock linings..........................................................
Button shoes.....................................................................
Polish buttons................................ .................................
Sand tips...................... ...................................................
Repair patent leather.......................................................
Polish with fingers............................................................
Mark cartons....................................................................
Move boxes and cartons...................................................
Pack..................................................................................
Seal cases...........................................................................
Stencil cases............................................ .........................
Ship...................................................................................
Organization......................................................................
Tntftl
Orand total

...

E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 9 . —Men’s

.776

120.0®
359.99
720.03
56.84
270.00
86.4®
38.23
51.43
120.00
461.54
720.03
216.09
11.43
72.00
720.03
471.92
52.68
1,079.91
1,079.91
471.92
471.92

McKay, brown side leather bal., oak leather sole with slip sole, leather heel
base with rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Sort leather and tickets.........................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoes, machine...............................
Selecting dies for cutters.....................................................
Set up.......................................................................................
Skive top of quarters..............................................................
Skive base of quarters............................................................
Skive toe of vamps.................................................................
Skive heel of vamps...............................................................
Skive'tips all around..............................................................
Perforate tips..........................................................................
Perforate vamps.....................................................................
Skive tongues and side stays...............................................
Set up side stays.....................................................................
Cut linings, etc., machine.....................................................
Set up linings..........................................................................
Utility work............................................................................
Pick up work..........................................................................
Stamp linings..........................................................................
Organization............................................................................

31.000
468.000
10.000
31.000
22.000
38.000
10.000
10.000
18.000
16.000
84.000
21.000
18.000
10.000
13.000
57.000
20.000
11.000
10.375

$0,335
6.439
.106
.294
.203 .321
.101
.122
.159
.106
.552
.221
.141
.109
.064
.491
.201
.086
.182

Total___________________________________________

898.375

10.233

84791°— 24t------7




$0,648
.825
.636
.569
.554
.507
.606
.732
.530
.398
.394
.631
.470
.654
.295
.517
.603
.469
1.053
.683

193.55
12.82
600.00
193.55
272.73
157.89
600.00
600.00
333.33
375.00
71.43
285.71
333.33
600.00
461.54
105.26
300.00
545.45
578.31

94

t im e a n d l a b o r

COSTS— MID-WESTERN d is t r ic t .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 192a,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 9 .— M e n ' s

McKay, brown side leather baL, oak leather sole with slip sole, leather heel
base with rubber, top lift.—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs oflOO pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCH G DEPARTMENT.
IN
*79.000
41.000
41.000
19.000
69.000
29.000
10.000
54.000
37.000
26.000
117.000
42.000
38.000
44.000
65.000
13.000
182.000
79.000
36.000
22.000
70.000
10.375

$0,503
.294
.276
.221
.460
.215
.074
.515
.343
.233
.858
.257
.184
.343
.215
.073
2.207
.621
.276
.220
.460
.182

$0,382
.430
.404
.698
.400
.445
.444
.572
.556
.538
.440
.367
.291
.468
.198
.337
.728
.396
.460
.600
.394
1.053

________

1,123.375

8.930

,477

. __ _
____ _____

10.000
36.000
25.000
10.000
10.000
15.000

.080
.467
.206
.098
.089
.086

.480
.778
.494
.588
.534
.344

106.000

1.026

.581

.
______

50.000
10.000
10.000
15.000

.494
.098
.089
.086

.589
.588
.534
.344

T o ta l.._____________________________________

85.000

.764

.539

5.000
52.000
21.000
21.000
10.000

.046
.462
.185
.147
.076
.185

.552
.541
.529
.420
.456
.555

Stav sides_____
______________ _ _____ _____
_
Close linings................. - „r . , . ,.
r
_________
Cord- . _ ,r.
,
_ r. _
. .
____
Back tips____ __________ _____________________ __
■Rack tongues_____________________________'________
Close nppers_______ ________________ ___________
■R.nh <?A
arns________________________________________
Raolrstav . _ _______________________________ ____
Tnfteam .1__________________________________ ________
Bead_________________ - ___________________________
Stitch tops
_
Eyelet " _____ ____________ j ______________________
Tnk .
,
_______
Stitch, tips___
_
___ _ ______
Close vamps _ ______________________________________
Rub vamp* seams
...
Vamp
"
______ ____________
___________
Seam toes ........
....... _ _ . ....
Tank
........
Lace (“ Ensign” ) __ __ ___ __ .
_ ... .... ^
Utility work” —- ___________________________I_______
Organization_________________________ ______________
Total

75.95
146.34
146.34
315.79
86.96
206.90
600.00
111. 11
162.16
230.77
51.28
142.86
157.89
136136
92.31
461,54
32.97
75.95
166.67
272.73
85.71
578.31

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
Get up sole leather
Out
Grade _
Sort
.
.
Put stock in bins
Assemble.
_ ___

___ _ _
____ _ _
..
...
_

..... _ .
_
_
____

.

_

Total-------------------------- ----------------- ---------------Insoles:
Cut _
_
__
.
Sort_______ _
____ __
Put stock in hins_ . _____ _
Assemble _

Slip soles:
Sort scraps.______________________ __ __________
_
Gut.................................................... ...............
Grade....... ............... ...... ..................................
Stick....... ......................... .............. ...... ..................
Roll____
______
Scarf and put in bins______________________
Total___ _____________ ______________________

. _ ___

. ___
_____

___ ____

Stock fitting:
Utility---------------------------- ——.................................
Skive shank rands
_ ___
_ __
Stick s lip s o le s
.....
_ ____ _
Scarf shank rands.......................................................

1.108

.046
.068
.052

.552
.816
.624

.166
2.147

1,200.00
115.38
285.71
285.71
600.00
300; 00

.664

230 247

120:06
600.00
600.00
400.00

.496

5.000
5.000
5.000

m oo

600.00
600.00
400.00

.515

1.314

15.000

Box toes:
Sort scraps...T
_ _
_ ______
_
_
Cut_____________________________________ r
Skive........................... .
...................................
Total ___

a ooo

158.915

Counters, leather i__

TT eefeirl

2

129.000

600.00
160 67

.559

40.000
6.000
21.000
20.000

.334
.032
«rl4?
.134 1

.501
.320
.420

.402

1,200.00
1,200.0Q
1,200.00

150.00
1,000.00
285.71
300.00

* These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




95

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . Id .

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923.
BY DISTRICT., DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N m S ’B R IG T -O o n tin u e d .
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

IP.—Men’s McKay, brown side leather bal., oak leather sole with slipsole, leatherheel
base with rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Stock fitting—Concluded.
Channel............................................... - .....................
Cement outsoles.........................................................
Tack shank rands..... .................................................
Mold soles..................................................................
Tem per....................................... .............................
Cement slip soles........... ...........................................
Round taps.................................................................
Gauge toes..................................................................
Open channels............................................................
Fudge..........................................................................
Black soles..................................................................
Assemble slip soles.......... ............ .......... ...............
Operate elevators.................................................. —.
Organization...............................................................
T nfad

_

. __________

Total, snWlAflthar rlapartment

16.000
18.000
28.000
16.000
5.000
21.000
10.000
13.000
12.000
19.000
13.000
9.000
10.000
20.750

$0,276
.074
.307
.153
.038
.079
.135
.091
.184
.221
.079
.091
.060
.364

$1,035
.247
.658
.574
.456
.226
.810
.420
.920
.698
.365
.607
.360
1.053

297.750

2.799

.564

1,021.912

___

9.324

.547

100.000
100.000
200.000
77.000
23.000
67.000
100.000
10.000
10.000
10.000
10.375

.773
1.128
2.256
.773
.153
.650
.552
.050
.214
.069
.182

.464
.677
.677
.602
.399
.582
.331
.300
1.284
.414
1.053

707.375

6.800

.577

63.000
19.000
10.000
75.000
20.000
10.000
55.000
25.000
37.000
37.000
37.000
20.000
34.000
148.000
10.375

.919
.233
.117
.429
.178
.069
.613
.226
.460
.245
.441
.214
.258
1.625
.182

.875
.736
.702.534
.414
.669
.542
.746
.397
.715
.642
.455
.659
1.053

600.375

6.209

.621

50.000
112.000
34.000
48.000
43.000
47.000
49.00042.000
28.000
19.000
50.000
12.000
10.000
10.375

.491
1.349
.331
.502
.380
.454
.490
.417
.306
.147
.396
.080
.061
.182

.589
.723
.584
.628
.530
.580
.600
.596
.656
.464
.475
.400
.366
1.053

554.375

5.586

.605

375.00
333.33
214; 29’
375.00
1,200.00
285.71
600.00
461,5*
500.00
315.79461.54
666.67
600.00
289.16

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Assemble for pull-over machine.......................................
Pull over, machine...........................................................
C. H . M . lasting machine................................................
Pound toes........................................................................
Put in shanks....................................................................
Tack on soles.....................................................................
Pull last welt and cut stock.............................................
Inspect...............................................................................
Utility work......................................................................
Wet up and miscellaneous...............................................
Organization......................................................................
Total

..........

__ _ _

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.
McKay sew.......................................................................
Nail heel seats...................................................................
Sort styles and sizes................................ .........................
Sock linings........................................ ..............................
Cement............................................... ...............................
Temper soles and utility work..........................................
Level......................................................... ........................
Fudge................................................... .............................
Heel....................................................................................
Feed rubber heels................................ ............................
Trim heels.........................................................................
Utility work......... ............................................................
Breast heels......... .... ........................... ............................
Trim edges............. ...........................................................
Organization........................................ .............................
Total___________________________________________

60.00
60.00
30.00
77.92
260.87
89.55
60.00
600.00
600.00
600.00
578.31

.343

’

95.24
315.79
600.00
80.00
300.00
600.00
109.09
240.00
162.16
162.16
162.16
300.00
176.47
40.54
578.31

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour heels..... ..................................................................
Set edges........................................................................ .

Slick heels........... ............... ........... ................. ................
Sand bottoms....... ........................ ..................................
Naumkeag.........................................................................
Paint......................................................... .............. .........
Finish heels...... ................................................................
Finish bottoms..................................................................
Clean shoes........................................................................
Stamp................................................................................
Utility work......................... ................ .......... ...............
Sort and pair........................ ............................................
Operate elevators.................................................. ...........
Organization......................................................................
Total __




___

______________

120.00
53.57
176 47
125.00
139.53
127.66
122.45
142.86
214.29316 79120.-00
50600
600.00
578.31

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTR ICT,

96

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATIO N — Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 9 .—

Men's McKay, brown side leather bal., oak leather sole with slip sole, leather heel
base with rubber top lift—Concluded.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Past.p. h parts ___
p.p.l
_
Dist.rihnt.p
n
Tree , machine _
___
Onhhlft (after treeing) _
_
_ _ _____
Polish................................. ................ ............ ..................
Brush bottoms.
Makeoartons_
_
Make lids
_... _.... ...
•
Clean, dry rag. ..
. .. .
T.aee
. _
_ . _
_
.. _
Stamp eartnm _
..........
Paek in eartons
.. . .
_
__
Cover oartons
......
Odd {shoe and floor work
.
U tility work
Paek nasfis
Seale eases and load
M ake eases
Organisation
Total

_

. . .
_
__
. . ..................................
_______

_________________________

Grand to ta l_________________________________
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

53.000
10.000
112.660
30.000
55.000
34.000
21.000
19.000
34.000
50.000
10.000
40.000
20.000
10.000
20.000
18.000
18.000
18.000
10.375

$0,355
.053
1.472
.132
.276
.245
.147
.125
.245
.196
.083
.294
.080
.073
.092
.105
.105
.074
.182

$0,402
.318
.789
.264
.301
.432
.420
.395
.432
.235
.498
.441
.240
.438
.276
.350
.350
.247
1.053

582.375

4.334

.447

5,911.341

51.416

113.21
600.00
53.57
200.00
109.09
176.47
285.71
315.79
176.47
. 120.00
600.00
150.00
300.00
600.00
300.00
333.33
333.33
333.33
578.31

.522

£5—Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford
with tip, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Check in leather......................................... ............................
Sort leather..............................................................................
Count footage..........................................................................
Deliver stock to catting room..............................................
Give out work....................................... - ................................
Cut shoes, hand......................................................................
Sort upper parts......................................................................
Stamp sizes...............................................................................
Trace.............................................................................. .........
Skive top and front of quarters............................................
Skive vamps............................................................................
Skive tips.................................................................................
Skive toes.................................................................................
Skive bottom of quarters.......................................................
Perforate quarters...................................................................
Perforate-vamps....................................................................
Perforate tips...........................................................................
Give out work to lining cutters...........................................
Cut linings, hand....................................................................
Stamp linings..........................................................................
Give out work to trimming cutters.....................................
Cut trimmings, machine.....................................................
Sort trimmings.......................................................................
Assemble trimmings.............................................................
Assemble........................................................................... .......
Cobble.......................................................................................
Back shoe work.......................................................................
Organization........ ...................................................................
Total..

. .

..

____ . .

. . .

2.778
34. 722
1.389
2.778
2.778
416.667
83.333
41.667
41.667
33.333
18.056
13.889
11. I ll
19.444
33.333
38.889
22.222
8.333
66.667
22.222
27.778
133.333
8.333
2.778
5.556
29.922
14.961
118.688

$0,050
.434
.008
.022
.042
5.667
.521
.250
.208
.278
.181
.069
.069
.139
.278
.354
.167
.126
.417
.250
.289
1.028
.048
.016
.068
.374
.686
1.985

$1,080
.750
.346
.475
.907
.816
.375
.360
.300
.500
.601
.298
.373
.429
.500
.546
.451
.907
.375
.675
.624
.463
.346
.346
.734
. 750
.345
1.003

1,256.627

13.424

.641

8.333
19.444
11. I ll
69.444
69.444
33.333
19.444
41.667
25.000

.041
.264
.083
.833
.410
.403
.222
.403
.153

.295
.815
.448
.720
.354
.725
.685
.580
.367

2,159.83
172.80
4,319.65
2,159.83
2,159.83
14.40
72.00
144.00
144.00
180.00
332.30
432.00
540.01
308.58
18fr 00
154.29
270.00
720.03
90.00
270.00
216.00
45.00
720.03
2,159.83
1,079.91
200.52
401.04
50.55

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Checking in..............................................................................
Close back seams.....................................................................
Rub linings...............................................................................
Stitch heel stays......................................................................
Stitch toe linings............................... .....................................
Tape linings.............................................................................
Tape quarters........... ...................... ...................................
Reenforce quarters................................................................
Stitch vamp linings................................................................




720.03
308.58
54a 01
86.40
86.40
180.00
308.58
144.00

24a 00

97

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 23,

T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPA RTM E N T, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford
with tip, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued.

E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . US.—

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded.

Close quarters..........................................................................
Paste pieces..............................................................................
Stay...........................................................................................
Cement quarters.....................................................................
Cement tips.............................................................................
Fold front of quarters............................................................
Fold top of quarters...............................................................
Fold vamps..............................................................................
Fold tips..................................................................................
Stitch lace stays......................................................................
Stitch tips................................................................................
Bind tongues............................................................................
Lay in.......................................................................................
Crease vamps..........................................................................
Stitch tops................................................................................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Nick and ink...........................................................................
Vamp........................................................................................
Paste toes.................................................................................
Seam toes and stitch in tongues..........................................
Clean........................................................................................
Trim..........................................................................................
Bar.............................................................................................
Lace, 1 spindle........................................................................
Lace, 3 spindle........................................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Pack..........................................................................................
Back shoe work......................................................................
Supplies....................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

Total

. . ____

16.667
27.778
19.444
25.000
8.333
30.556
36. I ll
61. Ill
27. 778
50.000
52.778
27.778
8.333
13.889
91.667
27.778
19.444
119.444
11. Ill
38.889
13.889
72.222
19.444
8.333
13.889
100.000
8.333
74.805
14.961
104.727

$0.181
.181
.229
.153
.069
.278
.333
.563
.111
.514
.319
.222
.111
.083
1.014
.333
.201
2.215
.111
.403
.139
.417
.174
.139
.111
.417
.104
.418
.078
1.112

$0.652
.391
.707
.367
.497
.546
.553
.553
.240
.617
.363
.480
.799
.359
.664
.719.
.620
1.113
.599
.622
.600
.346
.537
1.001
.480
.250
.749
.335
.313
.637

1,441. 712

13.545

.564

12.500
4.500
4.750
3.000
2.000

.158
.032
.065
.026
.026

.758
.427
.821
.520
.780

26.750

.307

.689

18.000
4.000
6.500
11.500
1.500

.203
.022
.081
.096
.015

.677.
.330
.748
.501
.600

359.99
216.00
308.58
240.00
720.03
196.36
166.15
98.18
216.00
120.00
113.68
216.00
720.03
432.00
65.45
216.00
308.58
50.23
540.01
154.29
432.00
83.08
308.58
720.00
432.00
60.00
720.03
80.21
401.04
57.29

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade.................................................................................
Sort....................................................................................
Rack...................................................................................
Case...................................................................................

Total________

_

Insoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade.................................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Rack.................................................... .............................
Case...................................................................................

Total___________________________ ....

41. 500

.417

19.000
4.000
4.000
2.700
1.500
.750
1.000
7.000
3.500
1.500
1.333

.204
.047
.022
.018
.010
.005
.009
.070
.021
.007
.012

.644
.705
.330
.400
.400
.400
.540
.600
.360
.280
.540

Total..............................................................................

146.283

.434

.563

113.788

1.033

333.33
1,500.00
923.08
521. 74
4,000.00

.603

Counters:
Cut.....................................................................................
Sort flats............................................................................
Grade.................................................................................
Skive..................................................................................
Shave ends................ - ....................................................
Wet rollers........................................................................
Wax rollers........................................................................
Mold..................................................................................
Inspect...............................................................................
Case...................................................................................
Tie up................................................................................

480.00
1,333.33
1,263.16
2,000.00
3,000.00

.545

.Box toes, leather i

_ _____ ____

315. 79
1,500.00
1,500.00
2,222. 22
4,000.00
8,000.00
6,000.00
857.14
1,714.29
4,000.00
4,501.12

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. Seepp. 132-140.




§8

T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D IST R IC T .

T IM E -A N D LABO R COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES' IN 1923;
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION-Continuedi
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued:
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford
with, tip;-8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued;

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). oflOO pairs:

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— C o n c lu d e d .

Heels:
Cut grain lifts......................................................—.........
Sort grain lifts.................. _.......... ....... ........................
Serve lifts........................................... ...... .......................
Serve paste...................................... ............ . ...................
Build, “ Grover” ........ .................. ......... ......................
Press, jack................. ......................................................
Inspect, wet................................................. . .................
Form rands......................................................................
Butt..................................................................................
Dry................................................................. ...................
Compress_____________ _________ _______ _________
Inspect, dry________ ____________ _____ . __________
Case................................. ................. ...............................
Tack rands....................................... ........... ..................

55.000
6.000
1.500
.500
20.000
2.000
6.250
7.250
1.500
.500
2.750
5.000
1.667
7.000

$0,444
.029
.011
.002
.216
.014
.029
.062
.014
.005
.026
.027
.017
.062

$0,485
.290
.440
.240
.648'
.420
.278
.513
.560
.600
.567
.324
.612.
.531

116.917

.958

.492

5.556
1.389
13.889
5.556
4.167
33.333
5.556
11.200
33.333
5.556
33.333
16.667
8.333*
11. I ll
13.889
8.333
A 167
1.750

.035
.007
.194
.035
.026
.450
.025
.097
.278
.025
.220
.049
.081
.063
.038
.019
.027

.378
.302
.838
.378
.374.810
.270
.520
.500
.270
.400
.792
.353
. .437
.272
.274.
.274
.926

1,079.91
4,319.65
432.00
1,079.9!
1,439.88
180.08
1,079.9!
535:71
180.00
1,079.91
180.00
359.99
720.03
540.01
432.00
720.03
1,439.88
3,428.57

5.556
5.556
6.944
13.889
13.889
13.889
5.556
2.778
11. I ll
14.961
14.961

.035
.031
.058
.116
.178
.150
.025
.013
.050
.104
.221

.378
.335
.501
.501
.769
.648
.270
.281
.270
.417
.886

1,079.91
1,079.91
864.06
432.00
432.00
43a 00
1,079.91
2,159.83
540.01
401.04
401.04

........ ..........................................

326.208

2.872

.528

Total, soledeather department____. . . . _____ _____

671.446

6.021

.538 — ------- -----

89.766
11. I ll
2.778
166.667
111. Ill
113.889
244.444
6.944
29.922

.452
.054
.014
2.389
1.694
1.639
3.194
.066
.390

.302
.292
.302:
.860
.915
.863
.784
.570
.782

776.632

9.892

.764:

T o t a l ...------------------------------------------------------------Siockfittingj
Insoles—
Track
............... ..................... .............................
Give out work.........„..............................................
Round_____________ ________ _________________
Lip, cut and score.................. ....... .........................
Nip toes......................................................................
Channel..................................... ................................
Cut outside channels.._________ ______________
Cement channels.....................................................
Set channels--------------------------- ------------- ----------Dip heel seats_______________ _________________
Put on- canvas and crease.... .w. . _ . . . _
_____
Gum............................................................_..............
Crown........ .......... ......... ........................ ................
Case up in boxes.......................................................
Turn back channels.................................................
Form toes.................................... ..............................
Place In tempering room_________ ____________
Case rubber top lifts......................... ......................
OutsoleS—
Track.....................—................................................
Stamp sizes________ ______ ___ _____ ____ _____
Even, machine— ___________ „_______________
Round—___ — .. ..__________ ____ —..... ..............
Reduce shanks......................... ...............................
Feather edging..— -................ ................................
Case up............... — ..................... ..........................
Load on track__ — ............................................
Deliver to bottoming room..—..............................
Back shoe work........................ ................................
Organization_ __________ ________ . . . . . . _____
_
T o t a l ...—

—

.2 2 2

109; 14
1,000.08
4,000.08
12,000:00
3 0 0 :0 0

3,000.00
9oo:oo
827:50
A 0 0 0 :0 0
i2;ooaoo
2,181.82
1,200.08
3,599.28*
857.165

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Assemble lasts, counters, soles, and uppers.___________
Case lasts.............................................................. ..................
Get out counters and insoles........................................... .
Assemble for pull-over machine.......... .............................
Pull over, machine_____ _______
_____
_ _ _
Side last, machine................—.................................... ........
Operate bed machine...........—_________________________
Checkout________________ — __________
Organization_________
Total________________ ___________




_

_

66.84
540.01
2; 159.83
36.00
54.00
52.68
. 24.55
864.06
200.52

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 23 .

99

T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y DISTR ICT,. D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

03.—Women's Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp* whole, quarter, lace oxford
with tip, 8/0 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Pull back tacks....... ..........- ........................... ......................
Trim toes___ - ..............................................—...................
Staple.......................................................................................
Raise tacks..............................................................................
Goodyear welt.......................................................................
Wet shoes for welter.........- ....................................................
Inseam......................................................................................
Trim inseams...................... ...................................................
Beat welts....................................................... .........................
Butt off.....................................................................................
Knock out insole tacks..........................................................
Tack in shanks........................................... - ..........................
Fill bottoms . .............................................. ...........................
Cement bottoms............... —................... - ............................
Sort shoes.................................................. . ...... . ...................
Wet soles, first time............. - ................................................
Roll soles................................ ................ ......... - ...................
Mold soles.-..............................................- ........ ,...................
Cement soles............................................................................
Wet soles, second time..........................................................
Lay soles...................................................................................
Rough round...........................................................................
Turn up channels and skive shanks...................................
Goodyear stitch................- ...................................................
Roll shanks.................... ............................... .........................
Cement channels............. .......... ...........................................
Lay channels....... ............ .....................................................
Fudge, first tim e ....................... ............... - ........................
Level....................................................... - ................................
Nail seats.................................................- ........ ............. —
Trim seats................................................................................
Get out heels...........................................................................
Heel, No. 1 base............................. ................. ........... .
Heel, No. 2 rubber........ .........................................................
Trim heels................................................................................
Breast heels..............................................................................
Trim edges.................................. ...........................................
Joint..........................................................................................
Cobble............. .................. ..............................._........ ..........
Back shoe work...................... .................................... .........
Organization.............................................................................................
T o t a l_______________________________ __________________

9.722
13.889
30.556
25.000
5.556
13,889
66.667
38.889
27.778
36. I l l
23.611
16.667
20.833
11. Ill
11. I ll
8.333
2.778
8.333
41.667
1.389
31.944
47.222
34.722
111. Ill
19.444
13.889
47.222
27.778
47.222
11. I ll
16.667
13.889
2.778
41.667
50.000
27.778
19.444
130.556
36. Ill
14.961
29.922
29.922

$0,041
.208
.250
.333
.025
.063
1.667
.405
.278
.389
.208
.194
.250
.111
.090
.048
.016
.049
.139
.007
.472
1.000
.340
2.083
.222
.139
.167
.174
.417
.046
.208
.083
.012
.667
.694
.694
.306
2.479
.514
.156
.146
.520

$0.253
.899
.491
.799
.270
.272
1.500
.625
.600
.646
.529
.698
.720
.599
.486
.346
.346
.353
.200
.302
.887
1.271
.588
1.125
.685
.600
.212
.376
.530
.248
.749
.359
.259
.960
.833
1.499
.944
1.139
.854
.626
.293
1.043

1,219.250

16.310

.803

18.058
44.444
5.556
155.556
16.667
8.333
11. I ll
15.278
77.778
9.722
20.833
25.000
44.444

.222
.556
.029
2:479
.194
.035
.174
.069
.778
.069
.278
.306
.278
.389
.424
.201
.159
.188
.215
.093
.088
.251
.6 6 0

'738
.751
.312
.956
.698
.252
.940
.271
.600
.425
.801
.734
.375
.700
.458
.543
.343
.677
.619
.251
.292
.417
.882

8.135

.650

617.16
432.00
196.36
240.00
1,079:91
432.00
90.00
154.29
216.00
166.15
254.12
359.99
288.00
540.01
54d 01
720.03
2; 159.83
720; 03
143.99
4,319; 65
187.83
127.06
172.80
54; 00
308.58
432.00
127.06
216.00
127.06
540.01
369.99
432.00
2,159.83
144.00
120.00
216.00
308.58
45.96
166.15
401.04
200.52
200.52

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour breast.................................................. ...... .......... ..........
Scour heels, first time.............................................................
Dope heels.................................. .............. ................................
Set edges............................. .....................................................
Fudge, second time................................................................
Change racks...........................................................................................
Scour heels, second time............................. .......................................
Ink heels.....................................................................................................
Sand bottoms...........................................................................................
Brush dust off bottoms.....................................................................
Mark shanks............................................................................................
Stain forepart...........................................................................................
Ink shanks and breast of heels.............. .......................................
Burnish shanks and breasts............................................................
Burnish heels..........................................................................
Wax forepart............................................................................
Brush stitches..........................................................................
Polish, final...................................................................- ........
Pull lasts..................................................................................
Stamp bottoms................... ...... .......................................................
Clean;rubber top piece..i . . .................................... ........................
Wheel shanks..................................................... ....................................
Organization..................................................... .......................................
T otal___________________




_________________

33.333
55.556
22.222
27.778
16.667
20.833
22.222
18.056
36.111
44.888
750:439

332,30
135,00
1,079.91
38.57
359.99
720.03
540.01
392.72
77.14
617.16
288.00
240.00
135.00
180:00
108.00
270.00
216.00
359.99
288.00
270.00
332.30
166.16
133.68
................... .

100

A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT.

t im e

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford
with tip, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded.

E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . $ $ .—

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Bring racks to room
Pot. tanks
flnft phnps
_ _ _ _ _
Sock linings________________________________ _______
Tree, machine ..
,
,.. i ... _
r
posh racks
...
- ■Repair
Dress
„ .. __
Brush .,. „ r
n
___ _
_ _
T,ace ,
.... .
_ _
inspect
Tnm
i ___
- __ _
j ,ahA boxes
]
...
.
_
Pack
_ r__ ___
Stencil cases___________ ____________________________
Check nnt.
__ _
Ba^k shne work
_ ___ _
_
Utility................................................................................
Seal cases
_ _.......... . ......._ .
T^»ad nn truck
...........
_____ . _.
T^oad on wagon ,
Utility work
___. _ ir_ _
_
Ship
__
_
_
__
Organization
Total

______

Grand total „ _____ __. .

2.778
23.611
8.333
13.889
97.222
2.778
26.389
97.222
13.889
25.000
41.667
25.000
19.444
23.611
5.556
2.778
44.883
14.961
5.556
1.389
1.389
14.961
14.961
44.883

$0,012

.026
.007
.007
.088
.062
.610

$0,259
.282
.648
.600
.583
.281
.282
.249
.251
.499
.312
.256
.250
.493
.356
.259
.291
.481
.281
.302
.302
.353
.249
.815

572.150

3.882

.407

6,688.256

71.209

.639

.1 1
1

.090
.139
.944
.013
.124
.404
.058
.208
.217
.104
.081
.194
.033

.012
.218
.120

2,159.83
254.12
720.03
432.00
61.72
2,159.83
227.37
61.71
432.00
240.00
144.00
240.00
308.58
254.12
1,079.91
2,159.83
133.68
401.04
1,079.91
4.319.65
4.319.65
401.04
401.04
133.68

E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . % . —Women’s McKay,

black kid,lace oxford, circular vamp,whole quarter, imitation per­
forated tip, perforated vamp and lace row, blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 heel with rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Rtnek-rnnm wnrk _
_ _
_
Relenting dies for cutters
__
__
Cut vamps and whole shoes, machine
__ _ _
Skive circular vamps_______________________________
Skive quarters
______
Rort. vamps and quarters
____ _
Rort. tongues _
r
___
Assemble leather parts
_ , _ _____
Cut vamp doublings. __
r__.
Cut eyelet reenforcements _ _ _
Cut doubling for quarters____________ ______________
Cut sheep quarter linings, machine_ _
_ _ ___
Cut tongue linings _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
' ^
Cut vamp linings..............................................................
Cut haekstav reenforcement _ _ _
Case linings and doublings...............................................
Rtamp linings.
.
_ __
Cut sock linings _
................. _ ___
Cut bottom filler______ r,
_ r_ „ r r
Perforate imitation tip __ _ _ . _ _ ___ _ _
Perforate vamps
______
_ _____
Back shoe work _
Organization
_
_ _
Total

_ ____

17.747
17.747
263.889
16.667
22.222
47.222
13.889
15.833
2.778
5.556
5.556
83.333
2.778
5.556
15.833
19.444
22.222
5.556
5.556
27.778
41. 667
17.747
35.494

$0,126
.052
1.794
.153
.167
.417
.047
.081
.017
.033
.033
.458
.017
.033
.056
.083
.111
.033
.033
.146
.222
.094
.465

$0,426
. 176
.408
.551
.451
.530
.203
.307
.367
.356
.356
.330
.367
.356
.212
.256
.300
.356
.356
.315
.320
.318
.786

712.070

4.671

.394

16.667
55.556
55.556
44.444
47.222
33.333
50.000
22.222

.097
.389
.222
.167
.139
.125
.194
.208

.349
.420
.240
.225
.177
.225
.233
.562

338.09
338.09
22.74
359.99
270.00
127.06
432.00
378.96
2,159.83
1.079.91
1.079.91
72.00
2,159.83
1,079.91
378.96
308.58
270.00
1.079.91
1.079.91
216.00
144.00
338.09
169.04

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Close quarter linings
_____ _
_ _
.
Stitch toe lining to quarter linings
__ __
Doubling quarters....................................... ....................
Paste on eyelet reenforcement _ _ _ _ _ _
_
_
Trace for lace row . . . ____
_ _ _
Close quarters. _ _ _____
_ _ ____
Stay quarters _ _
_ _ _ _ _ ,_ ________ ____ _
Perforate lace row..............................................................




359.99
108.00
108.00
135.00
127.06
180.00
120.00
270.00

101

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 24.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923.
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
24—Women’s McKay, black kid, lace oxford, circular vamp, whole quarter, imitation
perforated tip, perforated vamp and lace row, blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 heel with rubber top
lift—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Stitch lace row (plus)_______ ______________________ r _ ___ _
._
Cement quarters fnr fnld ........
Fold quarters....... ............................................................
Lay in linings
........
Stitch tops.!____________________ _________ ________
Eyelet.."............................................................................
Double vamps________________________________ ____
Cement vamps for fold____ _____ ___________________
Fold circular‘vamps_________ _____ ______ __________
Stitch imitation tips____________ ______________ ____
Match and trim for vampers________________________
Vamp.............................. t .................................................
Bind"tongues_______________________ _________ ____
Seam toes...........................................................................
Bar.....................................................................................
Lace...................................................................................
Inspect...............................................................................
Trim...................................................................................
Pack...................................................................................
Cripple work.....................................................................
Floor work (girl)...............................................................
Sweep.................................................................................
Machinist’s work____ ______ _______________________
Organization____________ _______________ __________

66.667
16.667
166.667
22.222
166. 667
65.556
16.667
16.667
33.333
44.444
25.000
138.889
55.556
83.333
41.667
36. I ll
41.667
41.667
16.667
35.494
17.747
17.747
35.494
35.494

$0.250
.083
.556
.097
.667
.250
.125
.063
.194
.160
.083
1.444
.183
.368
.183
.139
.139
.139
.111
.149
.094
.110
.340
.521

$0,225
.299
.200
.262
.240
.270
.450
.227
.349
.216
.199
.624
.198
.265
.264
.231
.200
.200
.400
.252
.318
.372
.575
.881

Total........................................................................

1,553.090

7. ?89

.309

Outsoles:
Cut___ _____ __________________________________
Grade_________________________________________
Sort_________________ _____________ ______ _____
Rack...... .....................................................................
Case__________________________________________

12.500
4. 500
4. 750
3.000
2.000

.158
.032
.065
.026
.026

.758
.427
.821
.520
.780

90.00
359.99
36.00
270.00
36.00
108.00
359.99
359.99
180.00
135.00
240.00
43.20
108.00
72.00
144.00
166.15
144.00
144.00
359.99
169.04
338.09
338.09
169.04
169.04

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total_____ _____________ ____ ________________

26.750

.307

.689

Insoles:
Cut..............................................................................
Grade__________________ ____ _____________ ____
Sort.............................................................................
Rack.................................... ........... ............................
Case__________________________________________

18.000
4.000
6.500
11.500
1.500

.203
.022
.081
.096
.015

.677
.330
.748
.501
.600

Total............................. ..........................................

41.500

.417

.603

Counters:
C u t............................................................................
Sort flats___ : .............................................................
Grade__________ __________________________ _____
Skive
Shave ends_______________ ____ _______ _________
Wet roll.......................................................................
Wax roll__ _
...
_
_
M old...........................................................................
Inspect___________________ ____ _____ ______ ____
Case.
___ __ _______ . . . . ............
Tie up ____
___
. . . .
_

19.000
4.000
4.000
2.700
1.500
.750
1.000
7.000
3.500
1.500
1.333

.204
.047
.022
.018
.010
.005
.009
.070
.021
.007
.012

.644
.705
.330
.400
.400
.400
.540
.600
.360
.280
.540

480.00
1,333.33
1,263.16
2,000.00
3,000.00

Total_______
Box toes, leather 1

46.283
____

’ ._ _
_

.....

Heels:
Cut flexible lifts..........................................................
Cut grain lifts.............................................................
Cut wedges. _
.
. . .. ___
Sort flexibles...............................................................
Sort grain lifts:...........................................................

.425
1.033

.545

61.000
4.900
21.360
8.000
.500

.592
.041
.178
.046
.002

.582
.506
.500
.345
.240

315. 79
1.500.00
1.500.00
2,222.22
4.000.
8.000.
6,000.00
857.14
1,714.29
4,000.00
4,501.12

.551

113.788

333.33
1,500.00
923.08
521.74
4,000.00

98.36
1,225.00
281.00
750.00
12,000.00
1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




00
00

102

t im e

A N D LABOR COSTS— M m -W E & E E R N D ISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF IflO FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N M S T K I C T - C o B t in u e d .
McKay, black krd, lace oxford, circular v a m ^ whole quarter, imitation
perforated tip* perforated vamp and lace row", blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 Heel with rubber top
lift—Continued.

J fir ts M te h m c n t N o . t 4 . ~ ~ W < m e & fs

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and- operation;

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

•
SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Keefe—Continued.
Serve lifts.............. ............ ................... - ............. —
Serve paste.......................................................................
Build “ G r o v e r ........................... .......................
Press jack-..-........................................................... Inspect, wet.........................................................
Compress, first time_______ ________ _______
Dry house......................... .................. ................ —
Compress, second time................... ....................— —
Inspect, dry.......................................................... ——
Casers................................. ............................................ .

1.600
.500
19.600

$0011
.002

6.250
2.750
.500
2.500
5.250
1.700

.196
.014
.029
.027
.005
.026
.027
.017

$0,440
.240
.600
.420
.278
.589
.600
.624
.309
.600

_________

156.310

1.213

.466

Stock fitting:
Temper soles............... ......................... ................
—
Roll soles.......................... ............................. .......
Round outsoles.......................................- ............ Round insoles........................................ ................ —
Channel outsoles...................................................
Mold insoles............... ............................................ .........
Mold outsoles........................................................ Open channels......................................................... .......
Feather edge forepart.——............... - ................- ___ Feather edge shanks.....................................................
Ink outsoles..................................... ......... .......... ......
Sweep....................................................................- .........Case rubber top lifts................................................. .....
Organization.....................................................................

19.444
13.889
25.000
19.444
12.500
4.167
5.556
13.889
1 . Ill
1
15.278
13.889
17.747
5.400
17.747

.097
.083
.150

.083
.042
.058
.083
.056

.299
.359
.360
.370
.398
.605
.626
.359
.302
.436
.298
.284
.300

195.061

1.260

.388

579.692

4.655

.482

2 .2 2
22
2 .2 2
22

.186
.281
.315
.384.
.572
.709
.620
.356
.374
.300
.179
.563
-.331
.466

17.747
17.747
35*494

.069
.104
.146
.444
.583
.722
1.722
.132
.104
.153
.083
.417
.069
.194
.056
.069
.131
.078
.423

719.599

a 699

.475

A 333
3a 889
16.667
12.500
8.333
1 . Ill
1
31.944
a 333
laose

.083
.472

.598
.728
.400
.600
.598
.-448
.652
.302
.831
•462
.59*

Tntnl

. .

.

Total.

_

_ .

Tntal, snJo-lpnthp.r ^Apartment ____- -

_ ___ _
_

20 0
.0 0

.120

.1 1
1

.D69
.084
.027
.197

.666

4,000:00

12,00006
306.12
$00.00
960.00
% 181.82
12,00000
2,400,06
1,142.86
3^529 00

30&58
432.60
240i 00
308.58
480:00
1,439; 88
1,079 9*
432.00
540.01
392.72
432.00
338.09
1 ,1 11.1 1

33a 09

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Match-up work and chalk lasts..........................................
Case lasts............................................................................
Tack insoles................... ...................... ........... ............ .....
Assemble for puller-over machine..........................
Pull over, machine................ ..............- ..............................
Side last_____ ________ ____________ __________________
Operate bed machine....... ............................................
Grind toes.................................................................. ..............
Pull insole tacks................... —........................................... .
Tack in shanks......................................................... ........... .
Tack in bottom filler..............................................................
Tack soles.................................................................... ...... ...
................. ............... ...........
Pull out back tacks____ —
Pull lasts._____
_____ . . . . . . . . . ____________ . . .
Fill bottoms
_
—rBack shoe work................................ .......................... .........
Cobble........................................................ .................. .
Cripple______ ___________ ,___________ ___________ ,__ 1 t
L
_
Organization......................................... ......................—_ _
___________________ _____________

T o ta l

27.778
69.444
61. I ll
61. I ll
166.667

2 .2 2
22

16.667
30.556
27.778
44.444
12.500
25.000
16.667

2 .2 2
22

.202
.186:
.443
.264
.715

270.00
270.00
216.00
8*40
96.18
9a 18
36.00
270.00
359.99
196.36

21*00

185.00
480.00
m oo
359.99
270.00
338.09
338.09
169.04
.,-r . . . ...

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Wet for M cKay sewer............................ ..............................
McKay sew............................................ ...............................
Nailseats........................................................... ......... ..........
Cement channels.................................. .................................
Sort for leveler.................. ....................................................
Wet for leveler...................................... .................................
Level............... —........................................... - ..... ............ .....
Lay out heels................... ........................... .................... .....
Heel bases.......... ...............— ............ .— ...____________
Feed bases...................... ......................... .......... . .
_____
Cement base and rubber.......................................................
Put on rubber heels.................................................




ia056
am

18.056

.111

.125

*083
.083
.347
.042
.250
.139
.083
•194

. m

720.03
154; 29
359.99
480.00
720.03
540.01
187.83
720.03
332.30
332.30
720.03
332 30

ESTABLISHMENT NO. 24.

103

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923>
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M m - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
Women's McKay, black kid, lace oxford, circular vamp, whole quarter, imitation
perforated tip, perforated vamp and lace row, blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 heel with rubber top
lift—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
18.086'
22.222
26.389
26.389
16.667
6.944
25.000
69:444
17:747
17.747
35.494

$0,139
.118
.278
.194
.111
.083
.222
.694
.057
.105
.451

$0,462
.319
.632
.441
.400
.717
.533
.609
.193
.355
.762

_______________________ ________.____

480.710

4.464

.557

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Set edges......................................................................—Brush edges after setting.................................................
Put away second lasts__- ................. - .............................
Scour breasts.....................................................................
Scour heels.........................................................................
Size heels...........................................................................
Scour heels third time....................................................
Sand bottoms-................................................................ —
Dust bottoms:.......................................................... —
Cut shanks.....................- ............................................. —
Bleach forepart......................................... ...............
Stain forepart.......................................................... - ___ Ink shanks...................... .............................................
Ink heels......................... - .................................................
Burnish shanks, tops and breasts............................ .......
Polish forepart............................................................. ...
Burnish h e e ls.........................................................
Wheel bottoms-..... ................................................ — .
Fill in heels........................................................................
Wheel seat......................... —............................................
Pull second lasts...............................................................
Stamp bottoms........................ ....................... ...............
Roll w ax............................................................................
Clean rubber heels.............................- .......................... .
Buff shanks........................................... - ..........................
•Sweep........................................................... - ...................
Organization......................................................................

116.667
16.667
11. Ill
11.806
27.778
8.333
16.667
41.667
5.556
6.944
12.500
37.500
27.778
16.667
25.000
22.222
30.556
22.222
16.667
11. I ll
12.500
11. I ll
9.722
16.(67
13.889
17.747
35.494

.917
.m
.069
.083
.264
.069
.125
.486
.056
.063
.069
.444
.167
.097
.278
.167
.194
.118
.078
.4)97
.097
.090
.069
.111
.056
.084
.395

.475
.475
.373
.422
.570
.497
.450
.700
.605
.544
.331
.710
.361
.349
.667
.451
.381
.319
.281
.524
.466
.486
.426
.400
.242
.284
.668

602.549

4.875

.485

IQ 444
.
44.444
11. I ll
27.778
144.444
66.667
27:778
22.222
8.333
11. I ll
22.222
19.444
38.889
35.494
88.735
17.747
35.494
35.494

.063
.153
.090
.174
.833
.340
.139
.167
.056
.097
.167
.125
.133
.121
.336
.059
.222
.363

.194
.207
.486.376
.346
.306
.360
.451
.403
.524
.451
.386
.205
.205
.227
.199
.375
.614

676:851

3:638

.322

5,324.561.

35:991

.406

Feed rubber' heels.........—........................ -............. .........
Inspect................................................... ................. - .......
Trim h e e l s . ..................................................................
Breast heels............................................. . .............. - .......
Fill heels............................. ................. - .........................
Case lasts........................... —..............—..........................
Last, second time.............................................................
Trim edges....-...................................... • ...................
—
Back shoes and cover racks-with paper................ .........
Sweep........... - ................... .................................... - ........
Organization......................................................................
Total_.

Total

.. _ . . . . . . .

.

332.30
27ft 00
227.37227.37
359.99
864.06
240.00
86.40
338.09
338.09
160.04

43.56
359:99
540.01
508.22
216.00
720.03
359.99
144:00
1,079: 91
864.06
480.00
160.00
216.00
359.99
240.00
270.00
196.36
270.00
359.99
540.01
480.00
540.01
617.16
359.99
432.00
338.09
169.04

TREEING and packing department.
Push racks............................................. .............. .........
Brush stitches................... —............................................
Sort for trees......................................................................
Sock-linings............................................. .........................
Dress................................ ............................ - ..............
Lace.............. ........................ .............. ...........................
Brush.................................................................................
Size for packers....................................................... .........
Label cartons..................................... ........ - ...................
Pack..........i_ ........................................... ........................
Stencil cases...-..................................... - ..........................
Cartons and racks................ ...........................................
Back shoe work........................................... .....................
Inspect...............................................................................
General work.......................................... .........................
Ship.......... .............................- .......................................
Organization....... .................................................. .........
Total__

_______

. _____________ ,__________

Grand total............ .................... ........*..................




308.58
135.00
540.01
216.00
41.54
90.00
216.00
270.00
720.03
540.01
270.00
308.58
154.29
159.04
67.62
338.09
169.04169:04-

104

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 5 — M e n ’ s

McKay, box side, wax top, straight foxed, capped laced blucher, half
double sole, leather heel.

Department and operation.

Time cost
Labor cost,
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Put up jobs for cutters...........................................................
Truck in stock room.......................... ...................................
Selecting dies for cutters................. ......................................
Cut vamps, tips, and foxings, machine..............................
Cut tongues, machine.......................................... ...............
Cut quarters, machine................................ ........................
Cut vamp linings and quarter linings.......... ....................
Cut vamp doublers, machine..............................................
Cut eyelet stays, hand...........................................................
Sort vamps, tips, foxings, tongues, and quarters............
Tie and case up linings.......................................................... .
Tie and case up doublers.......................................................
Skive vamps........................................ ...................................
Skive tips.................................................................................
Skive quarters.......................... ........................ ....................
Skive foxings____ _________________ ___________________
Skive tongues.................................................................. .......
Crimp vamps........ ................................. ............................
Crimp linings...........................................................................
Perforate tips...........................................................................
Tie and case up for fitting room and put on stickers........
Stamp linings.........................................................................
Cut stays..................................................................................
Skive stays...............................................................................
Split stays................................................................................
Paste stays...............................................................................
Case and inspect....................................................................
General work...........................................................................
Assemble...................................... ..................... ........ ............
Cut linings, hand............................................................
Cut cripples............................................................................
Double light quarters............................................................
Sweep......... ........................................................ .......... ..........
General work..........................................................................
Machinist’s work.............................................................. .
Organization
_ _
_ __________
Total...............................................................................
STITCH
ING DEPARTMENT.
Unload trucks..........................................................................
Mark quarters................................................... ....................
Close quarters..........................................................................
Close foxings............................................................................
Rub quarter seams.................................................................
Rub foxing seams...................................................................
Stay quarters and foxings.....................................................
Stitch foxings...........................................................................
Stay web heels................................................. ......................
Stay sides..................................................................................
Match quarters and linings..................................................
Lay in quarters and linings..................................................
Inseam......................................................................................
Bead..........................................................................................
Top stitch____t .......................................................................
Trim side stays.......................................................................
Eyelet.......................................................................................
Hook.........................................................................................
Double vamps........ ...............................................................
Stitch tips.................................................................................
Stitch tongues..........................................................................
Case box toes...........................................................................
Stitch box toes.........................................................................
Match quarters and vamps..................................................
Vamp.........................................................................................
Trim, final........ .......................................................................
Pack...........................................................................................
Push boxes...............................................................................
Hang up uppers and send to lasting room........................
Inspect.......................................................................................
Back shoe work................................................. ........ . . . ___
Repairing belts.............................................................. ........




14.089
7.045
21.134
202.000
23.000
158.333
5.000
4.583
2.500
43.750
10.000
5.000
17.500
10.000
23.333
25.833
3.750
8.333
6.667
6.667
15.000
9.042
101.250
2a 833
32.083
34.583
14.583
30.417
14.167
6.667
13.333
14.167
8.695
7.045
7.045
21.134

$0,141
.039
.070
2.013
.229
.917
.063
.052
.031
.559
.052
.025
.125
.052
.198
.167
.038
.104
.031
.063
.111
.052
.642
.142
.158
.221
.071
.240
.083
.063
.167
.063
.050
.037
.063
.282

$0,600
.332
.199
.598
.597
.347
.756
.681
.744
.767
.312
.300
.429
.312'
.509
.388
.608
.749
.279
.567
.444
.345
.380
.409
.295
.383
.292
.473
.352
.567
.752
.267
.345
.315
.537
.801

1,006.895

7.665

.457

425.86
851.67
283.90
29.70
260.87
37.89
1,200.00
1,309.19
2,400.00
137.14
600.00
1,200.00
342.86
600.00
257.15
232.26
1,600.00
720.03
899.96
899.96
4oaoo
663.57
59.26
28a 00
187.01
17a 50
411.44
197.26
423.52
899.96
450.01
423.52
690.05
851.67
851.67
283.90;
\

=
7.500
22.917
27.917
12.917
17.917
11.250
29.167
75.000
25.000
75.000
7.083
13.333
34.167
38.750
125.000
18.333
18.750
20.417
25.000
5a 250
64.167
a 667
25.833
7.083
141.667
30.000
15.000
20.417
6.250
13.750
13.333
5a 358
7.045

.042
.094
.115
.094
.073
.042
.208
.500
.167
.333
.036
.073
.271
.188
.854
.094
.146
.135
.104
.271
.281
.042
.188
.047
1.063
.177
.115
.104
.028
.063
.063
.230
.032

.336
.246
.247
.437
.244
.224
.428
.400
.401
.266
.305
.329
.476
.291
.410
.308
.467
.397
.250
.289
.263
.378
.437
.398
.450
.354
.460
.306
.269
.275
.284
.245
.273

=

=

*

800.00/
261.8lC
214.92S
464.50
334.88
533.33
205.71
80.00
240.00
80.00
847.10
450.01
175.61
154.84
48.00
327.28
320.00
293.87
240.00
106.67
93.51
899.96
232.26
847.10
42.35
200.00
400.00
293.87
960.00
436.36
450.01
106.46
851.67

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 25

105

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 2 5 .—Men’s

McKay, box side, wax top, straight foxed, capped laced blucher, half
double sole, leather heel—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost,
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

STITCH
ING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Sweep____________ ___________________________________
Machinist’s work ____________________________________
Organization.. . ___ _______________________________

8.695
28.179
42.268

$0,050
.237
.412

$0.345
.505
.585

Total___________ _______________________________

1,148.380

6.972

.364

12.500
4.600
4.750
3.000
3.600

.158
.035
.065
.026
.046

.758
.457
.821
.520
.767

T otal.............................................................................
Insoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade____________________________________________
Sort......... ................................................................. .......
Rack....... ................. ........................................................
Case.................... ........................................... ........ .........

28. 450

.330

.696

18.000
4.800
6.500
11.500
1.750

.203
.030
.081
.096
.017

.677
.375
.748
.501
.582

Total_________________ ______ _________ ________
Slip soles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Sort______________________________________________
Case_____________________________________________

42. 550

.427

.602

11.160
9.25S
8.900

.139
.108
.088

.747
.700
.593

Total..............................................................................
Top pieces:
Cut______________ ____ ______________ ____________
Compress________________________________________
Skive________________ _______ _____ ______________
Sort..................................................................................
Case__________________________________________ _

29.318

.335

.686

12.700
5.400
2. 700
9.800
1.500

.135
.054
.018
.115
.007

.638
.600
.400
.704
.280

Total_____________________________________ _____
Counters:
Cut______________________ _________________ ______
Flat sort_________________________________________
Grade____________________________________________
Skive.................................................................................
End shave_________________ _________ ____________
Wet. t> ll
n
Wax roll____ ______________ _____ __________ _____
Mold..................................................................................
Inspect....................... .......... ................... ........................
Case_________________ __________ _____ ___________
Tie up____________ ______ __________________ _____

32.100

.329

.615

19.000
4.000
4.000
2.700
1.500
. 750
1.000
7.000
3.500
1.500
1.333

.204
.047
.022
.018
.010
.005
.009
.070
.021
.007
.012

.644
.705
.330
.400
.400
.400
.540
.600
.360
.280
.540

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

690.05
212.92
141.95
___________ _

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Grade____________________________________________
Sort......... ................... .......................................................
Rack_____________________________________________
Case.................................................................. ...............

Total

_._

__

._

46.283

Box toes, leather 1
_______________________________ ____
Ucels:
Cut piece lifts________________ ______ _____________
Sort piece lifts_______________________ ___ _____ _
Serve piece lifts___________________________________
Paste.................................................. .............................
Build logs____________________________ ______ ____
Serve logs______________ ______ ___________________
Slice logs
__
___ .__
___ _ .
__
Form rands______________________________________
Butt..................................................................................

Compress

_. _

.

. __

Inspect, d ry __________________________ ___________
Case_____________________________________________
Tack rands____. . . . . .......................... _________ _____
Tack tops _____
_ _ __
__ _ _
_

Total_____________

.425

113.788

.605
.030
.011
.002
.150
.003
.017
.062
.014
.026
.027
.019
.048
.036

.690
.277
.550
.480
.356
.720
.680
.513
.420
.624
.309
.570
.505
.617

115.750

1.050

537.60
648.00
674.00

472.44
1, 111. 11
2,222.22
612.24
4,000.00

315.79
1.500.00
1.500.00
2,222.22
4,000.00
8,000.00
6,000.00
857.14
1,714.29
4,000.00
4,501.12

.545

52.600
6.500
1.200
.250
25.250
.250
1.500
7.250
2.000
2.500
5.250
2.000
5.700
3,500

333.33
1,250.00
923.08
521.74
3,428.57

.551

1.033

480.00
1,305.00
1,263.16
2,000.00
1,666.70

.544

114.07
923.08
5,000.00
24,000.00
237.62
24,000.00
4,000.00
827.64
3,000.00
2,400.00
1,142 86
3,000.00
1,052.60
1,714.29

. 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140




106

t im e a n d l a b o r c o sts - h m id *w e s t e r n d is t r ic t ,
-

TIM E AND LAB OB COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928.
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D '-W E S T E R N * D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t- N o ,

25.—Men's. M^Kay, box- side, wax top, straight foxed, capped- laced blucher, half
doable sole; leather heel..—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Stoek- fitting;
Unpack and recase outsoles____________________
Skive* slips....................................................................
Butt slips.....................................................................
Stamp case number, sort grades, and watch temper.
Roll outsoles....................................................................
Round outsoles_____________________ _______ _____
Round insoles........... .....................................................
Channel outsoles.............................................................
Flat'press outsoles..........................................................
D r y outsoles...................................................................
Assemble outsoles, slips, and midsoles, cement out­
soles for slips, stick slips, and put in press............
Press and put in red......................................................
Trim slips................... ....................................................
Gauge toes.......................................................................
Tack wood shanks.............................. „........................
Wet outsoles for molders..............................................
Mold insoles............... ......................... .........................
Turn lips..................... __.................................................
Dip insoles_____________________ _____________ ____
Rack and-unrack soles..................................................
Moldoutsoles.... ................................... .........................
Check ami send up stock.
Back shoe work...............
Sweep........................... .......
Organization........ ..............

5.417
6.250
6; 250
8.333
11.667
19.583
13.333
16.667
9.583
9.583

$0,042
.063
.052
.063
.094
.219
.125
.167
.073
.063

$0,465
.605
.499
.454
.483
.671
.563
.601
.457
.394

1,107.62
960.00
960.00
720.03
514.27
306.39
450.01
359.99
626.11
626.11

19.167
17.917
19.583
8.333
14.167
8.750
6.250
12.083
6.667
6.250
8.750
6.667
7.083
8.695
14.089

.188
.146
.135
.083
.104
.083
.083
.125
.042
.063
.115
.056
.042
.050
.170

.589
.489
.414
.598
.440
.569
.797
.621
.378
.605
.789
.504
. 356
.345
.724

313.04
334.88
306.39
720.03
423.52
685.71
960.00
496.57
899.96
960.00
685.71
899.96
847.10
690.05
425.86

Total.

271.117

%

446

.541

Total, sole-leather department___

679.356

6.375

.563

19.583
29.167
61.250
10.417
67.917
96. 667
268.333
25.600
16.417
64.167
12.088
60:000
39.588
40.000
9.167

.208
.167
.417
.073
.625
.750
2.000
.125
.052
.521
.083
.500
.292
.302
.058
166
067
059
050

637
344
,408
,420
,552
,466
,576
,300
.300

211

,412
,500
,443
453
380
,471
,285
502
,345
899

818.803

6.726

493

13.333
74.583
17.083
28;333
10; 417
21. 667
23.750
12.917
26.250
15; 83?
10.000
30.417
30.417
26; 667
25.833
7.045

.063
.635
.104
.104
.063
.125
.125
.063
.229
.083
.073
.156.271
.250
.167
.059

284
511
365
220
363
346
316
293
,523
315
438
308
535
568
,388
,502

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Assemble lasts....................- ......................
Tack insoles................................................
Assemble for pull-over machine________
Chalk lasts............................. .....................
Pull, over, machine........................... ........
Side last, machine....................................
Operate bed machine................................
Pull insole tacks........................................
Pull back tacks . ............... ........................
Pound................................... .......................
Put up stock...................... ........................
Lay soles............................. ........................
Full lasts........................... .........................
Crown................................. ........................
Push racks........................ .......... ...............
Cobble............................... ... .......................
Back shoe work..........................................
Machinist’s work______ ______________
Sweep...........................................................
Organization................................................
Total..................................................
BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT;
Wet insole grooves........................................
M cKay sew....................................................
Nail seats............................ ...........................
Cement channels...........................................
Wet soles.........................................................
Lay channels.................................................
Fudge first time................ ...........................
Sort for leveler...............................................
Level...............................................................
Dye taps.........................................................
Serve heels.......................... ...........................
Feed heels............ .................. .....................
Heel.................................................................
Trim heels............... ........ ............................
Breast heels..................................................
Cobble_________________________________




21.134

14; 089
7.045
8. 695
14.089

.487

306.39
205.71
97.96
575.98
88.34
62.07
28.80
240.00
575.98
93.51
496.57

100.00

151.58
150.00
654.52

m oo

425.86
851. 67
690.05
425.86

450.01
80.43*
351.23
211.77
575.98
276.92
252.63
464.50
228.57
378.96
600.00
197.26
197.26
225.00
232.26
851. 67

E S T A B U S H M E N T N O . 30;

107

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE. MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923;.
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W 1 S T B R N M S T R I O T -C o n tin u e d *
E s t a b l i s h m e n t - N o . 2 5 . —Men’s

McKay, box side, wax top, straight foxed, capped laced blucher, half
double sole, leather heel—Concluded.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Trim edges...............................................................................
Back shoe work.......................................................................
Machinist's work...................................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Operate elevators....................................................................
Organization............................................................................

93.750
7.045
7.045
21. 667
8.695
8.454
14.089

$0,917
.039
.059
.208
.050
.056
.200

$0,587
.332
.502
.576
.345
.397
.852

Total___________________ ______ ________________
FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Ink edges..................................................................................
Set edges......... - .......................................................................
Scour heels...............................................................................
Ink heels...................................................................................
B u ff..........................................................................................
Cleanuppers...........................................................................
Ink bottoms...............................................- ............................
Stamp bottoms and heels.................................................. .
Burnish bottoms.....................................................................
Burnish heels...........................................................................
Wheel........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

535.290

4.099

.450

13.750
40.833
41. 667
20.833
58.750
24.167
30.000
13.750
39.167
34.583
14.167
11.074

.094
.313
.365
.104
. 521
.229
.167
.083
.458
.292
.094
.104

.410
.460
.52ft
.300
.532
.569
.334
.362.
.702
.507
.398
.563

Total.......................... ................................... ................
TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

342.741

2.824

.494

7.917
62.500
22.500
44.167
34.583
9.583
36.667
24.167
12.917
22.500
7.083
22.917
14.167
6.667
21.134
49.313
8.694
13.333
21.134
7.045
10.060

.063
1.083
.104
.292
.229
.052
.188
.146
.104
.125
.055
.146
.083
.042
.159
.348
.051
.097
.137
.070
.103

.477
1.040
.277
.397
.397
.326
.308
.362
.483
.333
.466
.382
.352
.378
.451
.423
.352
.437
.389
.596
.614

Tree, machine..........................................................................
Clean linings............................................................................
Dress.........................................................................................
Brush, final..............................................................................
Case sock linings.....................................................................
Sock linings..............................................................................
Lace................................................................... ......................
Sort and mate tips____________________ ______ ________
Label cartons............................................ - ............................
Stencil containers................................................... - ..............
Pack.......................................... ...............................................
Get out cases for packers........ .............................................
Push racks................................................................................
Supplies....................................................................................
Inspect......... .................... .......................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Seal cases........ ............................. ............................. ...........
Handle cases........ . ...... ........................ ........ .......... ..........
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization...... ............................................ .........................
Tntal

—

459.048

G ra n d tota l

. . . . . . .. .

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

___

_

_

.

64.00
851. 67
851. 67
276.92
690.05
700.72
425.88:

3:677
38.338

757.86
96.00
266.67
135.85
173.50
626.11
163.63
248.27
464.50
266.67
847.10
261.81
423.52
899.96
283.90
121.67
690.13
450.01
283.90
851.67
596.42.

.481

4,990.513

......-v
436.36146.94
144.00
288.00
102.13
248.27
200.00
436.36
153.19
173.50
423.52
541.81

.461

SO—Men's Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.
Cut vamps and whole shoes, hand__________ _________
Cut trimmings, m a c h i n e _ _ _ _ _
Sort............................................................................................
Stamp uppers.............................. ........................... .............
Cut hnings, machine............... ............................. ...............
Stamp linings..........................................................................
Cut doublers, hand...............................................................
Skive.........................................................................................
Set tips......................... ............................... ..........................
Inspect......................................................................................
Cut back shoes........................................................................
Assemble_
_
__ . . . . . . _______ *.____ .._____ ____ ___
Organization............................................................................
Total_________________________




________

750.000
83.333
76.800
41.667
41.667
33:333
25.000
166.667
16.667
125.000
19.200
25.00038.400

$11,500
.723
1.200
.246
.542
.277
.326
1.505
.116
1.9®
.300
.174
.833

$0,920
.521
.938
.354
.780
.499
.782.
.542
.418
.937
.938
.418
1302

1,442.734

19.695

.819

8.00
72.00
78.13
144.00
144.00
180.00
240.00
36.00
359.99
48.00
312.50
240.00
156.25

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N DISTRICT,

108

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. *
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . SO.—

Men's Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCH
ING DEPARTMENT.
25.000
72.000
50.000
66.667
91.667
66.667
33.333
48.000
25.000
33.333
16.667
40.000
50.000
50.000
33.333
27.000
153.583
41.667
233.333
38.420
58.333
50.000
26.000
25.000
166.687
69.583
50.000
50.000
16.667
25.000
91.667
175.000
16. C67
58.333
264.000
33.333
41. 667
T X 333
* '‘•
• 00
00
67
1j:\300
38.400

$0,168
.750
.500
.750
.917
.361
.271
.333
.146
.312
.127
.375
.425
.312
.167
.187
1.333
.292
1.417
.333
.437
.396
.271
.187
2.250
.604
.354
.396
.104
.104
1.039
2.127
.127
.292
3.667
.312
.250
1.646
.347
.217
.092
1.133
.900

$0,403
.625
.600
.675
.coo
.325
.488
.416
.350
.562
.457
.563
.510
.374
.301
.416
.521
.420
.364
.520
.449
.475
.625
.449
.810
.521
.425
.475
.374
.250
.680
.729
.457
.300
.834
.562
.360
.423
.833
.521
.331
.590
1.406

2,867.187

26,728

.559

Outsoles:
Cut.....................................................................................
Skive..................................................................................
Sort.....................................................................................
Case....................................................................................

21.120
22.153
64.000
19.200

.264
.200
.800
.240

.750
.542
.750
.750

Total...............................................................................

126.473

1.504

.714

Insoles:
Cut......................................................................... ...........
Skive.................................................................................
Sort............... .....................................................................
Case....................................................................................

80.000
28.800
40.320
16.941

1.000
.240
.504
.200

.750
.500
.750
.708

166.061

1.944

.702

158.915

1.314

.496

19.748

.240

.729

60.988

.720

.708

Sort linings for closer.............................................................
Stitch backstay on lining.....................................................
Paste lining sidestays...........................................................
Line tongues.......................................... .................................
Stitch lining side stays and hold tongue...........................
Stitch top band.......................................................................
Trim lining under top band.................................................
Ink vamps............. - .......................- .......................................
Trim toe pieces.......................................................................
Paste box toes........................................................................
Paste toe pieces.......................................................................
Fold tips...................................................................................
Stitch tips................................................................................
Paste doublers.........................................................................
Nick tops.................................................................................
Cement quarters.....................................................................
Fold quarters..........................................................................
Mark eyelet row.....................................................................
Stitch eyelet row.....................................................................
Ink quarters............................................................................
Close quarters.......................................................................
Stay quarters...........................................................................
Rub quarters-.........................................................................
Match quarters and linings.................................................
Stitch edges..............................................................................
Eyelet........................................................................................
Seam toes..................................................................................
Cut apart for toe seamer.....................................................
Trim tape. ..............................................................................
Mark vamp stitch ................................................................
Stitch blind row on vamps...................................................
Match vamps and quarters.................................................
Size vamps and quarters for vampers................................
Vamp.......................................................................................
Trim ends.................................................................................
Stitch backstays.....................................................................
Inspect......................................................................................
Sort and tie up for lasters....................................................
Check o u t ...............................................................................
Floor w o rk .............................................................................
Organization.............................................................................
Tntal___________________________________________

240.00
83.33
120.00
90.00
65.45
90.00
180.00
125.00
240.00
180.00
359.99
150.00
120.00
120.00
180.00
222.22
39.07
144.00
25.71
156.19
102.86
120.00
230.77
240.00
36.00
86.23
120.00
120.00
359.99
240.00
65.45
34.29
359.99
102.86
22.73
180.00
144.60
25.71
240.00
240.00
359.99
52.08
156.25

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Total
Counters, leather1
Top pieces:
Cnt and sort
_
_ .
_ _
.. ___
Box toes:
Cut and f i t . . ................... ...............................................

284.09
270.84
93.75
312.50

’

75.00
208.33
148.81
354.17

* These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. Seepp. 132-140.




109

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 30.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925,
B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 80 —

Men’s Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Heels:
Fit stock__________________________________________
Cut lifts___________________________ - ........ - ..............
Sort lifts.............................................................................
Skive lifts________________________ __________ ____
Build heels__________________ _____________ ______
Paste heels________________________________________
Sand heels_________________________________ - _____
Compress heels___________________________________
Gauge lifts________________________________________

22.000
90.000
15.000
15.000
60.000
25.000
20.000
15.000
20.000

$0.140.
.900
.150
.160
.500
.200
.180
.200
.150

10.382
.600
.600
.640
.500
.480
.540
.800
.450

Total...............................................................................

282.000

2.580

.549

Stock fitting?
Round insoles____________________________________
Turn insoles__________________ ___________________
Size insoles and cut lips___________________________
*
Channel insoles____ _ _____________________________
Dip insnlas
Hamant nntsnlas
_ _ _
Shank out outsoles________________________________
Gpnp.ral work
_ _ _ __
Organization _
____ __ _

41.471
42.240
24.000
54.568
18.719
21.599
26.182
36.288
19.200

.504
.440
.200
.720
.130
.240
.200
.567
.433

.729
.625
.500
.792
.417
.667
.458
.938
1.353

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

Total

,

____________________

284.267

3.434

1,098.452

11.736

.641

76.800
19.200
19.200
33.333
16.667
208.333
125.000
250.000
425.000
76.800
19.200
38.400

.533
.100
.120
.405
.127
2.333
2.167
4.500
6.500
1.133
.120
.700

.416
.313
.375
.729
.457
.672
1.040
1.080
.918
.885
.375
1.094

1,307.933

18.738

.860

16.667
25.000
48.000
18.250
93.833
24.000
40.417
41.167
27.417
29.750
29.500
16.333
8.333
33.000
9.750
53.250
24.000
173.333
8.583
10.500
16.667
16.667
12.500
50.000

.145
.280
.500
.190
2.150
.250
.590
.600
.400
.310
.430
.170
.052
.550
.061
1.220
.250
3.250
.104
.127
.174
.330
.152
.750

.522
.672
.625
1.375
.645
.625
.876
.875
.875
.625
.875
.624
.374
1.000
.375
1.375
.625
1.125
.727
.726
.626
1.188
.730
.900

144.68
142.05
250.00
109.95
320.53
277.7®
229.17
165.34
312.50

.725

Total, sole-leather department___ _______________

272.73
66.67
400.0®
400.0®
100.09
240.0®
300.09
400.00
300.0®

LASTING DEPARTMENT
AssPTnt»lp. and put. away lasts
_
_ __
Chalk lasts_______ ______ ________ ____________________
T,ay insoles and nnnntars oh raaks
Tack insoles__________________________________________
Trim insoles__________________________________________
Assemble for pull-over machine_______________________
Pull over, machine_______ ___________________________
Side last, hand________________________________________
Operate bed machine_________________________________
Crown_______________________________________________
Back shoe work_______________________________________
Organization______ ___________________________________
Total__________________________________ . . . ____
_
BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.
Trim t-O
ftS
_ __
__
... ____
Staple
__ _
_ - *Pilll taeks__ _
_ .
_ _
_
Pnll wire
.............. . _
_
Ooodyparwplt _
Pull insole tacks______________________ 1______________
Trim welts___________________________________________
Rnt-t. waits _
, . _ .. _ . _ _
Boat w«1ts
n . , .
- PlftCPShanks
^ ____
Pill bottoms
. n, ...
nAjnant. bottoms . . . . . .
.................
................ . _
Weltupsolas.
......
.................... _
T^ysolas ......., T .
_
TeCksolas___ . ___
Rough round
.
Open channels.
_.. . ,
_ .
Goodyear stitch_______________________________________
nprnpnt channels _
.
T
. . . . . .
Lay channels
Shape soles_______________________________ _____ _____
Nail heel seats________________________________________
Trim heel seats_______________________________________
Level........................................................................................

84791°—24t----- 8




78.13
312.50
312.50
180.0®
359.99
28.8®
48.09
24.00
14.12
78.13
312.5®
156.25

359.99
240.06
125.0®
328.77
63.94
250.0®
148.45
145.75
218.84
201.68
203.39
367.35
720.03
181.82
615.38
112.67
250.0®
34.62
699.06
571.43
359.99
359.99
480.00
120.00

110

T IM E A N D L $ B O E COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N DISTRICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PER ATIO N —Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

80.—Men’s Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel—Concluded.

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

bottoming department—concluded.

Sort (after leveling)____ _____ ________ _______________
Heel..................................... ....................................................
Trim heels................................................................................
Trim edges............................................................. ................
Joint..........................................................................................
Crown............*................................................... ......... ...........
Cobble......................................................................................
Organization...^............................................ - .......................
Total

n, „

^rn
T

4.250
50.000
58.333
241.667
39.083
38.400
76.800
19.200

$0,052
1.250
1.550
3.600
.570
.467
.920
.400

$0,734
1.500
1.594
.894
.875
.730
.719
1.250

1,354.650

21.845

.968

41.667
58.333
196.250
41.667
34.250
25.000
85.750
48.000
50.750
50.000
33.333
16.667
16.667
41.667
33.333
16.667
125.000
15,250
25.000
25.000
58.333
25.000
25.000
66.667
38.400

.362
.660
3.270
.800
.500
.122
1.250
.700
.740
.450
.231
.139
.092
.333
.266
.093
1.519
.185
.208
.500
.900
.191
.122
.694
.933

.521
.679
1.000
1.152
.876
.293
.875
.875
.875
.540
.416
.500
.331
.480
.479
.335
.729
.728
.499
1.200
.926
.458
.293
.625
1.458

1,411.77
120.00
102.86
24.83
153. 52
156.25
78.13
312.50

PINISniNG DEPARTMENT.
Scour breasts................................................ ..........................
Scour heels........*............................................. ........... „........
Set edges............................— ................................................
Naumkeag
.......................................................................
Smooth heels............................................._............................
Ink heels............................ *..................................................
Burnish heels.............................................................. .........
Sandbottoms.........................................................................
Roll bottoms......... .......... .................................. ...................
Polish bottoms____ ____ _________ ______________ _____
Brush edges.... .......................................... .............................
Polish edges.............................................................................
Glue heels_ ...................... ......................................................
Comer heels................... ......................................................
Bead seats................................................... ............. ...........
Stripe heel seats......................................................................
Stain bottoms...__________ __________ ________________
Stripe bottoms................. ......................................................
Bleat*............. 1......................................... ...........................
Pull lasts. ................................................................................
Separate stitches............. ............................................ ..........
Stamp.............................. . - I - . . . ..........................................
Crown............i . . . ................. ................................................
Organization...... .................................................. .................
Total

r - -r

1,193.651

15.260

144.00
102.86
30.57
144.00
175.18
240.00
69.98
125.00
118.23
120.00
180.00
359.99
359.99
144.00
180.00
359. 99
48,00
393.44
240.00
240.09
102.86
249.69
240.00
90.00
156.25

.767 1
i

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Feel for tacks............ .............................................................
Sock lining................................................................................
Tree, hand....... ......................................................................
Repair......................................................................................
Dress....................................................... .................................
Clean stitches...................... •................. ...............................
_
Lace and clean linings............................................................
Brush.........................................................................................
Rag edges and heels................................................................
Iron top bands................. ...................... ............. .................
Emboss................................. ...................................................
Check and size out__________ _______ __________ ______
Inspect........................... ..................... .....................................
Mark cartons..........................................................................
Pack.........................................................................................
Crown.....................................................................................
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization___ _______ ____________ _________________
Total_______________________
Grand total___




__

12.500
25.000
411.417
50.000
66.-667
16.667
33.333
25.4)00
16.667
33.333
25.000
33.333
41.667
8.333
25.000
38.400
41.667
57.600

.069
.130
5.000
.608
.694
.081
.185
.130
.092
.174
.156
.174
.506
.052
.217
.433
.760
1.667

961.584
,,

,

11.118

10,226.191

125.120

.331
.312
.729
.739
.625
.292
.333
.312
.331
.313
.374
.313
.729
.374
.521
.677
1.080
1.737
.694 {
.734

480.00
240.00
14.58
m oo
90.00
359.99
180.09
240.00
359.99
180.00
240.00
180.00
144.60
720.03
240.00
156.25
144.00
104.17

111

E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O .'B t

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N M S T R I C T -C o n t i n u e d .
E s ta b lis h m e n t

SI.—Women's McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, single sole,
with leather top lift.

No

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

wood heel

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Total _

,,

__

_______

-j

144.000
450.000
60.000
240.000
75.000
216.000
432.000
144.000
72.000
144.000
72.000

$1,925
8.375
1.000
2.500
1.000
1.275
2.475
.800
.375
2.203
1.250

$0,802
1.116
1.000
.625
.800
.354
.344
.333
.312
.918
1.042

2,049.000

Prepare jobs for cutters..........................................................
Cut vamps and whole shoes, hand....................................
Cut cloth linings, hand..........................................................
Cut leather linings, hand......................................................
Cut sock linings...................................... ...............................
Mark linings............................................................................
Mark sizes................................................................................
Sort and size out parts...........................................................
Block cut..................................................................................
Cobble (cut back shoes) ........................................................
Organization- ...................... —.......................- .......................

23.178

.679

72.000
72.000
72.000
72.000
30.000
100.000
67.476
34.286
34.286
270.000
73.350
61.125
315.000
.91.258
33.490
56.657
54.000
120.000
130.000
335.000
205.711
320.000
60.000
276.000
135.000
68.874
60.000
300.000
391.000
60.000
144.000
144.000
144.000
72.000
72.000
288.000

.400
.400
.400
.400
.250
.600
.500
.250
.250
2.500
.600
.500
4.500
1.000
.250
.600
.400
1.000
1.500
4.250
2.500
4.000
.500
2.025
.500
1.100
.900
3.000

.333
.850
.850
.850
.400
.400
3.550

.333
.333
.333
.333
.500
.360
.445
.438
.438
. 556
.491
.491
.857
.658
.448
.635
.444
.500
.692
.761
.729
.750
.500
.440
.222
.958
.900
.600
.614
.333
.354
.354
.354
.333
.333
.739

4,834.513

41.641

.517

84.111
110.404
158.915
55.330
113.788

.892
1.069
1.314
.587
1.033

.637
.581
.496
.636
.545

5.000
14.000
10.000
15.000
15.000
26.000

.078
.094
.156
.234
.234
.188

.936
.403
.936
.936
.936
.434

41.67
13.33
100.00
25.00
80.00
•27.78
13.89
41.67
83.33
41.67
83.33

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.
Check in and out.............................................. ....................
Ink edges..................................................................................
Count and match linings......................................................
Paste stays................................................................................
Edge..........................................................................................
Closet quarters..........................................................................
Close collars.............................................................................
Rub quarters...........................................................................
Rub collars...............................................................................
Cement quarters.....................................................................
•
Cement vamp line..................................................................
Cement back stays.................................................................
Sew on bindings.....................................................................
Stretch bindings.....................................................................
Paste on stays..........................................................................
Line vam ps.............................................................................
Lay in.................................................................................. .
Coat seams...............................................................................
Sew on anchors........................................................................
Fold quarters...........................................................................
Fold vamp line........................................................................
Stitch edges..............................................................................
Trim..........................................................................................
Make linings............................................................................
Paste..................... ...................................................................
Make buttonholes................................................................
Sew on buttons.......................................... ...........................
Case out..................................................................................
Vamp........................................................................................
General table work...............- ................................................
Reenforce buttonholes..........................................................
Mark for fancy stitching...................... - ..............................
Inspect cut-outs.......................................................................
Button and trim...................................................................
Trim threads and linings*.....................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total

__________ _________

____

4.000

83.33
83.33
83.33
83.33
200.60
00.00
88.92
175.90
175.60
22.22
81.80
98.16
19.05
65.75
179.16
105.90

111. 11

50.00
46.15
17.91
29.17
18.75
100.00
21.74
44.44
87.12
100.00
20.00
15.35
100.00
41.67
41.67
41.67
83.33
83.33
20.83

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Ontsoles, leather
Insoles, leather 1
Counters, leather i

_

Box toes, leather 1

.

_ T
,,

_

Top pieces, leather 1_______

^
________________

n
,

,

__________

,
,,T

______________

Stock fitting:
Put on racks................. ...................................................
Sand................................................... ...................................
Wet ____________________________________________________________________ r _ _
Case up.... .........................................................................
Skive................. .... .......... ...................................................................................................................................
Round................................................................................

1,200.00
428.57
600.60
400.00
400.00
230.77

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




112

TIME AND lA S a fiT
'COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT.

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . S t . —Women’s

McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, single sole, wood heel with
leather top lift—Continued.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— c o n c lu d e d .

Stock fitting—Concluded.
M a r k ,..................................................................
Channel--............................................................
Shank out..............................................................
Put on tape............................................................
Turn lips__............................................................
Tie u p ...................................................................
Put in racks...............: ..........................................
Case up, mark, and pound................................
Put on nonsqueak...............................................
Put in shanks........................................................
Tie up and put on racks.....................................
Organization............. ...........................................

10.000
40.000
40.000
30.000
40.000
20.000
5.000
15.000
30.000
30.000
10.000
72.000

$0.073
.625
.306
.146
.278
.139
.021
.146
.146
.146
.042
1.125

$0,438
.938
.459
.292
.417
.417
.252
.584
.292
.292
.252
.937

T o ta l-................................................................

427.000

4.177

.587

Total, Sole-leather department.......................

949.548

9.072

.573

Pick lasts______________________
Tack insoles.................................. .
Assemble for pull-over machine.
Pull over, machine.......................
Draft counters.............................. .
Side last, hand............................. .
Operate bed machine.................. .
Pound.............................. : .......... .
Iron buttons___________________
Pull insole tacks__.......................
Tack shanks_________ _______
Fill bottom s.................................
Organization................................. .

60.000
60.000
180.000
100.000
100.000
90.000
240.000
100.000
60.000
60.000
120.000
60.000
36.000

.729
.800
1.800
1.800
1.350
1.800
4.005
1.350
.800
.650
.916
.375
.625

.729
.800
.600
1080
.810
1.200
1.001
.810
.800
.650
.458
.375
1.042

T o ta l--............................... .

1,266.000

17.000

.806

120.000
75.000
120.000
90.000
90.000
75.000
90.000
90.000
240.000
72.000
36.000

1.800
1.080
2.000
.625
1.000
1.000
1.575
.800
3.699
.500
.625

.900
.864
1.000
.417
.667
.800
1.050
.533
.925
.417
1.042

1,09a 000

14.704

.804

180.000
90.000
75.000
90.000
150.000
120.000
60.000
75.000
150.000
60.000
17.000
75.000
75.000
60.000
60.000
540.000
150.000
90.000
300.000

2.250
1.406
.521
.900
1.823
1.458
.938
.651
1350
.625
.333
.750
.911
.375
.437
5.630
1.250
.718
5.000

600.00
150,00
150.00
200.00
150.00
300.00
1,200.00
400.00
200.00
200.00
600.00
83.33

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

100.00
100.00
33.33
60.00
60.00
66.67
25.00
60.00
100.00
100.0#
50t 00
100.00
166.67

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.4

Lay soles...................................................
Pull lasts and turn channels..................
M cKay sew.....................................................
Cement channels........................................... .
Level (Atlas)..................................................
Lay channels.................................................
Last, second time........................ .................
Level, second time........................................
Trim edges.... .................................................
Sweep...............................................................
Organization...................................................
T o ta l--.................................................

.M

.

’

50.00
80.00
50.00
66.67
66.67
80.00
66.67
66.67
25.00
83.33
166.67

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Set edges, first time.....................................
Set edges, second time...............................
Button shoes.................................................
Sand bottoms...............................................
Naumkeag....................................................
Stain bottoms...............................................
Bleach............................................................
After finish...................................................
Clean and brush edges...............................
Polish.............................................................
Pull lasts.......................................................
Nail wood heels...........................................
Pound toes....................................................
Put lasts away............................................ .
Sort shoes on elevator.................................
. Cover heels...................................................
Skive and sand breasts............................. .
. Set top pieces.............................................. .
Fit heels............................ ...........................*

* Wood heels used; covered, etc., in the finishing department.




.750
.937
.417
.600
.729
.729
.938
.521
.540
.625
1.175
.600
.729
.375
.437
.625
.500
.479
1.000

33.33
66.67
80.00
66.67
40.00
50.00
100.00
80.00
40.00
100.00
352.94
80.00
80.00
100.00
100.00
11.11
40.00
66.67
20.00

ESTABLISHM ENT NO. 38.

113

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

SI.—Women’s McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, single sole, wood heel with
leather top lift—Concluded

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
210.000
480.000
75.000
105.000
72.000
144.000

$3,750
7.250
.625
1.035
.400
2.750

$1.071
.906
.500
.591
.333
1.146

_ _

3,503.000

43.136

.739

Trim throats......................................................................
Sock linings.......................................................................
Tree and iron, hand..........................................................
Button or lace...................................................................
Brush bottoms..................................................................
Mark boxes.......................................................................
Pack..................................... .............................................
Stick...................................................................................
Iron and line......................................................................
Inspect...............................................................................
In k ....................................................................................
Singe.................................................................................
Organization......................................................................

90.000
103.000
288.000
60.000
60.000
30.000
120.000
60.000
60.000
120.000
90.000
90.000
72.000

.860
2.000
2.500
.340
.420
.190
.790
.270
.250
.920
.510
.560
1.125

.567
1.165
.521
.340
.420
, .360
.395
.270
.250
.460
.340
. 373
.937

Clamp heels. ....................................................................
Cement and sand breasts.................................................
Sew covers*.......................................................................
Inspect heels......................................................................
Clean and inspect.............................................................
Organization......................................................................
Total

_.

_

___

__

26.57
12.50
80.00
57.14
83.33
41.67

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

Total________________ _____ _______ __________

1,243.000

10.725

.518

Grand total_________ ________________________

14,943.061

159.456

66.67
58.25
20.83
100.00
100.00
200.00
50.00
100.00
100.00
50.00
66.67
66.67
83.33

.640

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

58.—Men’s Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron
single sole, 3J/8 leather heel with 31/8 rubber top lift.

C U T T IN G D E P A R T M E N T .

Put up jobs................................................................... .
Selecting dies for cutters.............................................
Supplies.......................................................................
Cut vamps, tips, quarters, and tongues, machine.
Sort complete...............................................
Cut linings, machine...................................
Case tongues and backstays.....................
Match mark.................................................
Cut eyelet stays, hand...............................
Skive complete.............................................
Sort and tie up.............................................
Back shoe work............................................
Sweep. ..........................................................
Machinist’s work........................................
Organization.................................................
Total...................................................

10.800
21.600
2.700
402.000
39.000
42.000
20.000
42. C00
222.000
160.000
16.200
10.800
6.171
5.400
32.400

$0,076
.073
.021
4.680
.490
.320
.100
.160
.940
.810
.050
.060
.034
.054
.433

$0,422
.203
.467
.699
.754
.457
.300
.229
.254
.304
.185

,033.071

8.301

.482

15.000
2.700
30.000
90.000
32.000
20.000
48.000
48.000
30.000
10.000
120.000
30.000
110.000
40.000
25.000
40.000
200.000

.070
.021
.160
.480
.130
.060
.180
.180
.120
.050
.380
.100
.600
.190
.180
.100
1.120

.280
.467
.320
.320
.244
.180
.225
.225
.240
.300
.190
.200
.327
.285
.432
.150
.336

.333

.331
.600
.802

555.55
277.78
2,222.22
14.93
153.85
142.86
300.00
142.86
27.03
37.50
370.37
555.55
972.29
1, 111. 11
185.19

ST IT C H IN G D E P A R T M E N T .

Unpack uppers. ..........................................
Supplies. ......................................................
.Stitch web heel stays.................................
Stitch eyelet stays to lining................... . .
Stitch top facing to lin in g .......................
Trim eyelet stays........................................
Stitch tongue lining....................................
Trace quarters.............................................
Stitch quarters, side row...........................
Rub quarter seams......................................
Back strap....................................................
Cement quarters and backstays.............
Fold quarters and backstays...................
Paste eyelet and hook stays......................
Lay linings to quarters.
Top stitch......................




400.00
2,222.22
200.00
66.67
187.50
300.00
125.00
125.00
200.00
600.00
50.00
200.00
54.55
150.00
240.00
15a 00
30.00

H

i

TIM E AND LABO # COSTS— M ID -W ESTERN DISTRICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D '■ W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.

Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron
single sole, 3£/8 leather heel with 3£/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

J M a b l i t f m e i U 2 T o . $ $ . - ~ Men’s

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pahs of 100 pairs
(minutes).

Department and operation.

P.yftlftt.

STITCH
ING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
.
_ _. . . . . .

_

__

Hourly
wages.

Inspect___ ______. . . . . ____ . . . . . . _ . . . ______________
_
Stitch, box t-flss
, T. _____ , ,
.
_ _
SW
AAp
r T _
.
....
Rack* shoe work
_ _ r .
.
TVTf*/*hinis+.'s work
0rqpni7.ati/pi ...

48.000
36.000
80.000
80.000
27.000
27.000
50.000
260. G O
O
30.000
30.000
22.000
30.000
25.000
6.171
16.200
10.800
27.000

$0,230
.150
.390
.360
.130
.150
.220
1.800
.130
.130
.110
.190
.130
.034
.060
.125
.304

$0,288
.250
..293
.270
.289
.333
.264
.415
.260
.260
.300
.380
.312
.331
.222
.694
.676

Total_____ ______ ___ ______ __________________

1,695.871

8.764

.310

12.500
4.600
4.750
3.000
3.600

.158
.035
.065
.026
.046

.758
.457
.821
.520
.767

28.450

.330.

.696

18.000
4.800
6.500
11.500
1.750

.203
.030
.081
.096
.017

.677
.375
.748
.501
.582

Total.......................................................................................................................

42.550

.427

.602

Counters:
Out
__________
Flat sort_
.
'
.. .
,. ...
Grade
_
_
. r
,
Skive
_____________
_
Shave ends
_ _.r_
____
Roll, wet.
~
.. _ i— i . . . T „
_
Roll, wax
_
r .
’ rr. r _
Mold
____________ ______
Inspect, .
,, _ .. . _ _ r . r . „ _ „ , .
Case___________________________________________________________________
Tie up _____n _ _
"
_______ r . . r ________ .... r ..

19.000
4.000
4.000
2.700
1.500
.750
1.000
7.000
3.500
1.500
1.333

.204
.047
.022
.018
.010
.005
.009
.070
.021
.007
.012

.644
.705
.330
.400
.400
.400
.540
.600
.360
.280
.540

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

.T nlfi vamps and tips . . . . . .
T
Dabble vamps . .. . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stay vamps, t
r
-^r.
T
Stitnh tips
.
_
Vamps “
. ___ ____ .
RaritTtoes and vamp linings . . . . . . . . .
■ im vamps
R *
. . . __

_ _____
_ ___
_ _ ____ , _
__
.

125.00
166.67
75.00
75.00
222.22
222.22
120.00
23.08
200.00
200.00
272.73
200.00
.240.60
972.30
370.37
555.55
222.22

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Outsoles:
(Tllf.
______
,
. .
•Grade____ ____ ___ ________________________ __
Sort____________________ _______ _______________
Rai?k_ r
__
.
_
Cpse - r n - *
T
.
Total

T _

^

r_ _

Insoles:
Cut
__ _____________ ___ _______________
(Trade _ __ _ _
___ _____ _ .
_
Sort
. . .

Raok n
r
Case

Total
R ot

_ _

_ _

_ _

_ _

toes, leather 1_____ _
,

_ _ _ _

__

. . . ____

46.283

.425

113.788

1.033
.233
.016
.035
.011
.002
.029
.062
.014
.0%

5.000
2.000
5.700

.500
.295
.350
.440
.240
.580
.531
.420
.520

.027
.010
.048

.324
.570
.505

66.920

.522

.468

Heels:
Cut grain lifts_______________________________________________________
Sort grain lifts _ _
. _______________
_
Grade.. _______
. . . ____ ______
Serve lifts
_
_______________
Serve paste______________________ _ _
...............
Build logs______________ _
_ _ _ ____ _
Form rands * _
____
_____
B utt ________
Compress. _
_ r
,
,
__ ___
Inspect, d r y ____________
Case.
..
___ . . . . . . .
Tack rands _
_
_ ____
T o t a l____

_

_____________________

315.79
1.500.00
1.500.00
2,222.22
4.000.
8.000.
6,000.00
857.14
1,714.29
4,000.00
4,501.12

214.50
1,846.15
1,000.00
4.000. 00
12,000.00
2.000.
857.14
3.000.
2.000.
1,200.00
3,600.00
1,052.60

1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-440.




00
00

.545

27.970
3.250
6.000
1.500
.500
3.000
7.000
2.000
3.000

333.33
1,250.00
923.08
521.74
3,428.57

.551

rr , _ . r „

_ _
_

480.00
1,305.00
1,263.16
2,000.00
i, 666.70

00
00
00

ESTABLISH M ENT Nt>.f'38.

■r

115

,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

38.—M en's Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron
single.sole, 3J/8 leather heel with 3£/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Stock fitting:
Assemble insnlfts,,^ _
____________________________
Round monies
... , ___
_ ___
Stamp insoles
......... _ _ _________________
Channel i n
s
o
l e
s
__
Snip channels
„ ^ ^•Cement insoles.. . . . . . . . __ _ ,_ ____ _ _ ______
Tip sat insole* ______
_ _ _
Canvas insoles , , ___ n .
Reenforce insoles. ____________ _______ ______ ____
Case and tie insoles
................ .
Stamp nntsnles
____ ______
Reduce shanks, outsells
_ ........
Split heels
........
Temper o u t s o l d ................. _ . _ . _
Mold ontapi'ea
,
_
Cement nptsoles__ _
"Cssft nutsoles
.
__
____,
.
_
flweep __ _
Organisation
:f5»se riVhibar top pi pops
_ . . . ..

t0 .040
.090
.060
.240
.050
.080
.120
.200
.120
.070
.050
.080
.060
.070
.080
.070
.040
.034
.071
.033

$0,480
.491
.514
.576
.300
.369
.450
.444
.480
.467
.500
.480
.514
.525
.533
.525
.480
.331
.789
.367

207.971

1.658

.478

505.962

A 395

.521

27.000
22.000
10.000

...

98.000
94.000
300.000
16.000
6.171
21.600

.260
.180
.080
.660
1.080
.960
2.960
.140
.034
.288

.578
.491
.480
.440
.661
.613
.592
.525
.331
.800

Total............................................ .... ..........................

684.771

6.642

.582

16.000
18.000
34.000
12.000
60.000
18.000
31.000
43. 000
18.000
12.000
22.000
12.000
10.000
24.000
48.000
16.000
120.000
24. 000
16. 000
20.000
16.000
20.000
10.000
45.000
45.000
27.000
.29.000
80.000

.150
.160
.280
.080
.840
.160
.300
.320
.180
.110
.180
.100
.080
.280
.660
.120
1.480
.200
.120
.150
.130
.180
.080
.540
.200
.280
.190
.980

29.000

.240

.563
.533
.494
.400
.840
.533
.581
.447
.600
.550
.491
.500
.480
.700
.825
.450
.740
.500
.450
.450
.488
.540
.480
.720
.267
.622
.393
.735
.497

Total

. . . . . .

.

Total, sole-leather department_____ - __________
.LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Assemble lasts,___________ _______________ __________________
Tank insoles
__
_
_
_
_
_
-Chalk lasts
_
...
_
_____
_ _ __
Assemble for pull-over machine______________________________________________________
Pull over, machine _ _
Ride last,, machine ....
n

Operate bed machine
Crown
Sweep___ _ ,
Organization

_ r

__

,_

.

__

_

_

_

_

__

_

_

5.000
11.000
7.000
25.000
10.000
13.000
16.000
27.000
15.000
9.000
6.000
10.000
7.000
8.000
9.000
8.000
5.000
6.171
5.400
5.400

90.000

1,200.00
545.46
857.16
240.00
600.00
461.54
375.00
222.22
400.00
666.67
1,990.00
600.90
857.16
750.00
666.67
750.00
1,200.00
972.30
1, 111. 11
1, 111. 11

222.22
272.73
600.00
66.67
61.22
63.83
20.00
375.00
972.80
277.78

BOTTOM
ING DEPARTMENT.
Trim toes
Staple __ __

_
___

_

___

. . . __________

Sat. tanks

Wet insoles __
Goodyear welt
Pull bottom tacks.
Trim inseams
_
Butt welts
.... _

_

_

___

“

_

_ _
__

_
_

_

_ _ .

_

_
_
__________________________

___
__

____ _____

Beat welts____________________________________ ’__........................................................ .... ........ ......................
Stick shanks_______________________________________
Fill bottoms......... .... .......................... .... ............ .....................
Cement welts______________________________________________________________________________________________

Match outsoles and shoes __

Lay soles_______ __________________ _______________________________________________________________________________
Rough round___________ ______________________ __________________________ _________________________________

Turn up channels

.

_

_

________

_

Goodyear stitch__________ _______________________________________________________________________________
Cement channels............................................................ .................................................................................................................
Turn down -channels__________________________________________ ____________________ _______________
Nail heel seats_____________ ____________________________________________________ __________________________

Trim heel seats

.

_

___

Level........_ • _ ................... .... ................. .... ............................
Match heels to shoes _ _
_ _
_______ _
_
_
Heed________________________ ________________________ ______________ _____________________________
Set nails _ _
_
_ _ ____
___ . _ _ _
_
Trim heels......................................................................................... ............................................................................................... ..
Breast_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Trim edges._

_

_

__

__

___________________

„

__

Joint_____________________________________ _______________ _____________________________________________________________
.Machinist's work............................................ - ....................................—___________________________ - ______ -




10.800

.134

.744

'875.00
333.33
176.47
500.00
100.00
333.33
193.55
139.54
333.33
500.00
272.73
500.00
600.00
250.00
125.00
875.60
50.00
250.00
375.00
300.00
375.00
300.00
600.00
133.33
133. $5
222.22
206.90
75.00
206.90
555.55

116

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— MID-WESTEBN DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PER ATIO N — Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
Men’s Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron
single sole, 3J/8 leather heel with 3J/8 rubber top lift—Concluded.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 8 —

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Back shoe work.................................................................
Inspect and cobble...........................................................
W ind bobbins - .....................: ...........................................
Sweep-................................. - - - - - ....................................
Operate elevators..............................................................
Organization.....................................................................

5.400
5.400
10.800
6.171
5.400
16.200

$0,020
.035
.037
.034
.039
.225

$0,222
.389
.206
.331
.433
.833

Total____ •
................... ; ...........................................

935.171

9.294

.596

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Scour breasts___; ..............................................................
Scour heels, first time......................................................
Set edges............... - ...........................................................
Brush edges...................... - ...............................................
Scour heels, second time....................................................
Ink heels............................................................................
Sand bottoms.....................................................................
Brush bottoms— ................. .................................— -Bleach< bottoms................................................................
Gum bottoms-...................................................................
Burnish heels*.....................................................................
Polish bottoms..................................................................
Wheel bottoms..................................................................
Cut strings.........................................................................
Pull lasts................................- ..........................................
Stamp bottoms..................................................................
Back shoe work.................................................................
Sweep...................................................... - ........................
Operate elevators..............................................................
Organization......................................................................

17.000
48.000
80.000
20.000
22.000
14.000
45.000
10.000
28.000
36.000
40.000
38.000
10.000
16.000
40.000
12.000
10.800
6.171
5.400
16.200

.110
.400
.980
.120
.160
.090
.460
.080
.260
.300
.300
.340
.080
.100
.240
.090
.040
.034
.039
.209

.388
.500
.735
.360
.436
.386
.613
.480
.557
.500
.450
.537
.480
.375
.360
.450

514.571

4.432

.517

.120
.080

Total _

.......

___ ___

1,111.11
1, 111. 11
555.55
972.29
1, 111. 11
370,37

352.94
125.00
75.00
300.00
272.73
428.57
133.33
600.00

214.29
166.67
150.00
157.90
600.00
375.00
150.00
500.00
555.55
972.29

.222

.331
.433
.774

1, 111. 11
37fi 37

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Inspect for and cut tacks..................................................
Emboss top facing.............................................................
Tree, machine....................................................................
Sock linings..................................: ....................................
Repair................................................................................
Dress..................................................................................
Brush edges.......................................................................
Lace....................................................................................
Pack...................................................................................
Inspect...............................................................................
Back shoe work.................................................................
Handle freight...................................................................
S hip;..................................................................................
Sweep.................................................................................
Organization......................................................................
Total_______________________________
Grand total _ ____

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

__ ______ ________

24.000
16.000
184.000
22.000
72.000
32.000
28.000
45.000
32.400
5.400
21.600
10.800
6.171
10.800

.140
.500
.500
.260
.140
.300
.250
.018
.133
.092
.034
.175

.300
.300
.652
.382
.441
.417
.488
.300
.400
.463
.200
.369
.511
.331
.972

578.171

4.742

.492

5,947.588

46.570

.470

68.000

2.000

250.00
375.00
32.61
272.73
88.24
83.33
187.50
214.29
133.33
185.19
1,111.11
277.78
*

555.55

972.29
555.55

^ . —Women’s Goodyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain,
tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Selecting patterns for cutters....................
Sort and put up jobs..................................
Cut vamps and whole shoes, hand..........
Match marks................................................
Sort vamps, etc............................................
Mark vamps, etc.........................................
Skive uppers..............................................
Skive toes.....................................................
Cement tips..................................................
Fold tips........................................................
Perforate tips...............................................




40.563
55.556
473.340
50.926
375.000
18.519
101.852
13.889
13.889
23.148
23.148

$0,254
.787
7.889
.248
5.156
.122
.622
.068
.074
.123
.123

$0,376
.850
1.000
.292
.825
.395
.366
.292
.318
.318
.318

147.92
108.00
12.68
117.82
16.00
323.99
58.91
432.00
432.00
259.20
259.20

ESTABLISHMENT NO.

U.

117

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923.
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
Women’s Goodyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain
tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

CUTTING DEPAETMENT—concluded.
Cut rubber backs..............................................................
Cut blind eyelets..............................................................
Iron....................................................................................
Cut doublers........................................................ ^...........
Cut linings, hand.-..........................................................
Cut tongue linings, hand.................................................
Stamp linings....................................................................
Cut trimmings, hand......................................................
Sort trimmings..................................................................
Stamp trimmings..............................................................
Assemble...........................................................................
Floor work............................ ; ..........................................
Sweep..............._...............................................................
■
Organization......................................................................

50.926
4.630
222.222
9.259
33.333
27.778
27.778
200.000
13.889
21.296
10.185
81.126
40.563
81.126

$0.371
.034
.926
.142
.569
.475
.116
1.167
.068
.096
.064
.535
.254
1.162

$0.438
.438
.250
.918
1.025
1.025
.250
.350
.292
.271
.374
.396
.376
.859

2,013.941

21.445

.639

.047
.278
.278
.278
1.153
.944
.161
.139
.694
.472
.278
.417
.369
.203
.075
.126
1.250
.389
.278
2.389
.417
.175
.175
.116
.381
.130
.211
.211
.254
.915
1.408

.305
.529
.400
.400
.498
.344
.500
.450
.511
.306
.514
.409
.520
.300
.271
.271
.450
.504
.400
.800
.450
.378
.378
.250
.411
.281
.312
.312
.376
.677
.521

1,881.909

14.610

.466

Outsoles:
Cut..............................................................................
Grade..........................................................................
Sort..............................................................................
Rack............................................................................
Case............................................................................
General work..............................................................

39.000
14.170
44.620
7.240
14.580
15.750

.519
.100
.502
.051
.156
.170

.798
.423
.675
.423
.642
.648

Total........................................................................

135.360

1.498

.664

Insoles:
Cut..............................................................................
Grade.........................................................................
Sort..............................................................................
Rack............................................................................
Case............ ; ..............................................................
General w ork.............................................................

38.880
10.500
58.770
2.620
14.580
12.350

.413
.038
.472
.023
.123
.061

*.637
.217
.482
.527
.506
.296

137.700

1.130

.492

Total,

_

..... _ . . ___

STITCH G DEPAETMENT.
IN
Assemble...........................................................................
Close..................................................................................
Stay...................................................................................
Bind tongues....................................................................
Make linings.....................................................................
Sew on blind-eye stays.....................................................
Cement quarters.................... ..........................................
Cement vamps..................................................................
Fold, hand............................... ........................................
Fold vamps.......................................................................
Double vamps..................................................................
Stitch tips.........................................................................
Crease vamps....................................................................
Rub seams........................................................................
Trim linings......................................................................
Lay in for top stitchers....................................................
Top stitch............................. ...........................................
Eyelet................................................................................
Trim threads.....................................................................
Vam p................................................................................
Seam toes...........................................................................
Bar....................................................................................
Clean.................................................................................
Inspect...............................................................................
Pack..................................................................................
Floor work.........................................................................
Odd shoe w ork................................................................
Sweep.*..............: ..............................................................
Machinist’s work.............................................................
Organization......................................................................
T ota l

9.259
31.481
41.670
41.667
138.889
164.815
19.332
18.519
81.481
92.593
32.407
61. I ll
42.593
40.560
16.667
27.778
166.667
46.296
41.667
179.166
55.556
27.778
27. 778
27.778
55.556
27.778 ,
40.563
40.563
40.563
81.126
162.252

117.82
1,295.90
27.00
648.02
• 180.00
216.00
216.00
30.00
432.00
281.74
589.10
73.96
147.92
73.96

648.02
190.59
143.99
142.00
43.20
36.40
310.37
323.99
73.64
64.80
185.15
98.18
140.87
147.93
359.99
216.00
36.00
129.60
144.00
33.49
108.00
216.00
216.00
216.00
108.00
216.00
147.92
147.92
147.92
73.96
36.98

SOLE-LEATHEE DEPAETMENT.

Total ___

. . .




i

153.85
423.43
134.47
828.73
411.52
380.95

154.32
571.43
102.09
2,290.08
411.52
485.83

118

TIME AND Lifeofi" COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT,

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T -C o n t in u e d .
^ .-—
Women’s Goodyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp,.plain
tipi, single sole, 4/8 leather beel base with 4/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

J S s to b li s h m e n t N o .

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs
(minutes). «f 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— Concluded. *

Heels:
Cut, sort, etc., heel lifts.....................
Build heels-..........................................
Tack rands...........................................

240.000
48.600
21.600

$2,000
.340
.200

$0,500
.420
.571

T o t a l ™ ............... — .....................

309.600

2.540

.492

Counters:
Cut........ ........................ ......................
.Sort.................................................. .
. Skive............................ .................. .
M o ld .................................................
Sort molded.........................................
Pack......................................................
. Pit stock. ..........................................
General w ork.......... ... ................... .

43.232
10.500
8.070
18.750
11.660
2.540
15.440
49.490

.474
.133
.078
.175
.108
.015
.124
.337

.658
.760
.580
.580
.556
.354
.482
.409

25.00
123.46
285.71

Total____ ....____________________

159.682

1.444

.543

Box toes, leather1
.......................................

113.788

1.033

.545

Stock fitting:
Round insoles.................. ..................
Stamp insoles......................................
Nip and wot insoles............................
Channel insoles...................................
.Cement insoles....................................
Stick tips.......................................... . .
Cut and crease canvas......................
Reenforce--------------------------------------Stitch insoles.......................................
Roll and dip heels..............................
Seats on insoles............ ......................
Crown insoles......................................
Stamp outsoles....................................
Shank out.............................................
Assemble..............................................
General work.......................................
Organization..........._...........................

92.592
6.726
11.666
36.111
13.889
20.370
31.481
?9 999.
17.593
18.519
13.889
6.726
16.978
24.074
40.563
40.563

1.019
.064
.097
.528
.111
.194
.306
.308
.250
.096
.082
.064
.153
.200
.254
.423

.660
. 570
.500
.877
.480
.573
.582
.832
.853
.312
.354
.570
.540
.498
.376
.626

138.79
571.43
743.49
320.00
514.58
2,362.20
388.60
121.24

]■

413.962

5.024

.598.

Tack insoles...................................
Assemble for pull-over machine.
Pull over, machine........................
Side last, machine........................
Operate bed machine...................
Inspect............................................
Odd sboework................. .............
General work..................... ...........
Organization................................. .

23.148
148.148
106.481
97.222
250.000
41.667
40.563
•81.126
40.563

.278
2.222
1.667
1.528
2.917
.474
.169
.528
.704

.720
.900
. 939
-.682
.250
.,391
1.041

Total.....................................

828.918

10.486

.759

24.074
44.440
31.481
83.340
52.780
47.220
26.852
48.148
65.741
29.630
20.370
39.315
55.556
28.704

.278
.444
.347
1.667
.528
.472
.222
.472
.384
.278
.306
.611
1.028
.273

.692
.600
.662
1.200
.600
.600
.496
.588
.350
.563
.900
.921
1.110
.681

432,00
892.06
353.40
249.23
147.92
147.92

.728

1,270.092

12.669

64.80
892.06
514.32
166.15
432.00
294.55
190.50
270.00
341.06
323.90

Total..................................................
Total, sole-leather department. . .
LASTING DEPARTMENT.

.943

.700

m ao
40.50
56.35

m. 7
1
24.00

144.60
147.92
73.96
147.92

•BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.

Staple.......................
Pull tacks................
Trim toes.................
Goodyear welt........
Trim inseams___ _
Beat welts........ .......
Knock tacks............
Tack welts at seats
Put in shanks_____
Fill bottoms_______
Cement bottoms...
Lay soles..................
Round................. .
Open channels........

249.23
135.01
*•290.59
71.99
113.68
127.07
223.45
124.62
91.27
202.50
294.55
150.70
107.99
209.03

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several reprejaafcativeestahhshmeots. Seepp. 132-J40.




’

ESTABLISHMENT NO,' 4 4

.

119

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 44 .—Women’s

Goodyear welt, brown kid. five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain
tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).
%

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Goodyear stitch................................................................
Feather out.......................................................................
Rub down shanks.............................................................
Cement channels...............................................................
Lay channels.....................................................................
Level..................................................................................
Inspect...............................................................................
Nail seats..........................................................................
Trim heel seats.......... .......................................................
Stick heel nails_________ ___________________ _______
Put in heels.......................................................................
Heel...................................................................................
Cement heels and tops.....................................................
Nail top pieces..................................................................
Trim heels............................................................... - .......
Breast................................................................................
Trim edges........................................................................
Joint...................................................................................
General work........... ........................................................
Sweep................................................................................
Organization......................................................................
Total

_

__

_ _____________________ __

114.815
28.704
13.889
27.778
27.778
69.444
41.667
25.000
13.889
17.593
20.370
46.296
33.333
55.556
27.778
27.778
158.333
58.333
81.126
40.563
40.563

$2.361
.333
.194
.278
.278
.611
.347
.226
.167
.222
.208
.736
.191
.936
.694
.556
2.556
.694
.528
.254
.704

$1,234
.697
.840
.600
.600
.528
.500
.542
.720
.758
.614
.954
.344
1.011
1.500
1.200
.968
.714
.391
.376
1.041

1,568.737

20.389

.780

.389

.969
.800
.682
.844
.500
.600
1.036
.643
.776
.900
.312
.343
.343
.752
.554
.689
.900
.558
.819
.682
.529
.500
.270
.250
.250

52.26
209.03
432.00
216.00
216.00
86.40
144.00
240.00
432.00
341.05
294. 55
129.60
180.00
107.99
216.00
216.00
37.90
102.86
73.96
147.92
147.92

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Scour heels, first time.......................................................
Scour breasts.....................................................................
Set seats.............................................................................

Set edges...........................................................................:
Inspect.......... ....................................................................
Size heels........................................................................ —
Scour heels, second time..................................................
Dye heels......................... ................................ - ........... —
Sand bottoms....................................................................
Buff__________________ ____________________________
Cut strings........................................................................
Bleach bottoms.................................................................
Line heel breasts....... .......................................................
Stain bottoms....... ............................................................
Stripe........................................................................................

Burnish heels....................................................................
Polish bottoms..................................................................
Clean edges................... ...................................................
Wheel bottoms..............- ..................................................
Roll up wax on heels.........................................................
Cut tacks...........................................................................
Pull lasts___•
.....................................................................
Pull p ap ers................. ...................................................
Stamp bottoms.................................................................
Brush heels and edges.......................................................
Odd shoe work..................................................................
Sweep.................................................................................
Organization......................................................................
T ota l

,

_ ........

_

. . . .

24.074
33.333

.444

249.23
180.00
196.36
33.75
196.36
540.01
196.36

30.556
177.778
30. 556
11.Ill
30.556
19.444
53.704
27.778
5.556
58.333
25.926
62.037
24.074
34.259
23.148
18.519
37.037
14.815
19.444
13.889
25.000
20.370
13.889
40.563
40.563
81.126

.347
2.500
.255
.111
.528
.208
.694
.417
.289
.334
.148
.778

997.438

11.258

.677

25.926
27.778
13.889
21.296
87.037
263. $89
64.815
60.185
41.667
138.889
37.037
125.000
60.185
23.148

.108
.164
.093
.089
.363
.519
.519
.195
.894
.211
.534
.418
.133

.250
.354
.400
.250
.250
.669
.481
.518
.281
..386
.341
.271
.417
.344

231.43
216.00
432.00
281.74
68.94
22.74
92.57
99.69
144.00
43.20
162.00
48.00
99.09
259.20

13.889

.079

.341 i
*

432.00

.222

.394
.347
.172
.506
.168
.171
.116
.113
.085
.058
.225
.254
.986

.333

.376
.729

308. 58

111. 72
216.00
1,079.91
102.86
231.43
96. 72
249.23
175.14
259.20
323.99
162.00
405.00
308.58
432.00
240.00
294.55
432.00
147.92
147.92
73.96

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Sort shoes...........................................................................
SoOk lining.........................................................................
Emboss..............................................................................
Clean rubber tops......... ........................................... ........
Ink edges................................................................. .........
Tree, hand.................................................*..................... Stain............. ............... ....................................................
Dress............................. ....................................................
Ink heel seats.....................................................................
Repair................................................................................
Lace...................................................................................
Clean stitches....................................................................
Inspect.......................... ........................................ ..........
Brush heels...................................................... ............
Mark b o x e s .....______. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ___ _




120

TIME AND IiA&OR* COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION-Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 44 .—Women’s

Goopyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain
tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift— Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. • Hourly
wages.
(minutes).

Department and operation.
*

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.
Pftf»lr
_
.
Oddshoe work ^
Rwppp
Opp.ratft filftvfttnrs r
Ship
Organization,
. . .

....... _____
_

. .

.. .
.
_____________

T o ta l.......................................................................
Grand total
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 5 .—

32.407
40.563
40.563
81.126
202.815
40.563
1,442.667
10,003.702

$0,169
.254
.254
.507
1.634
;493

$0,313
.376
.376
.375
.483
.729

11.654

.485

100.799

.605

185.15
147.92
147.92
73.96
29.58
147.92

Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel with
rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Cut heel pieces.......................................................................
Cut vamp linings, hand........................................................
Cut tongue linings, hand.......................................................
Cut quarter linings, hand.....................................................
Cut heel pads...........................................................................
Stamp........................................................................................
Mark.........................................................................................
Skive_______________________ _________________________
Perforate tips...........................................................................
Stay quarters...........................................................................
Fold tips...................................................................................
Floor work..... ..........................................................................
Sweep........................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

500.000
27.273
200.000
20.000
30.000
30.000
105.000
60.000
50.000
25.000
70.000
30.000
40.000
25.000
109.091
13.637
81.818

Total...............................................................................

1,416.819

Cut outsides, hand.................................................................
Selecting dies for cutters.......................................................

$7,500
.131
2.496
.204
.252
.204
1.500
.540
.240
.192
.672
.240
.268
.120
.830
.077
1.591
17.057

$0,900
.288
.749
.612
.504
.408
.857
.540
.288
.461
.643
.480
.402
.288
.457
.339
1.167

12.00
220.00
30.00
300.00
200.00
200.00
57.14
100.00
120.00
240.00
95.71
200.00
150.00
240.00
55.00
439.98
73.33

.722

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Openwork................................................................................
Count out parts......................................................................
Stay quarters...........................................................................
Fold tips...................................................................................
Cement vamps........................................................................
Sew across back......................................................................
Stitch tips_...............................................................................
Paste vamp linings.................................................................
Fold vamps..............................................................................
Close quarters............................... J.......................................
Stay quarters...........................................................................
Cement quarters and foxings............. ..................................
Fold quarters...........................................................................
Tape..........................................................................................
Stitch lace stay..........._...........................................................
Close linings.......................... .................................................
Make linings............................................................................
Line tongues.................................................. ........................
Top stitch.............................. ............ ....................................
Eyelet........................................................................................
Sort for top stitchers..............................................................
Sew across bottom of tongue ..............................................
Sort for vampers and ink.......................................................
Yamp.........................................................................................
Sew in tongues.........................................................................
Tack...........................................................................................
Lace...........................................................................................
Pack...........................................................................................
Odd shoe work .....................................................................
Floor work............... ...................................... ........................
Sweep.........................................................................................
Organization........................................................................
Total _________




___________________________J

11.000
21.000
40.000
25.000
50.000
60.000
66.000
50.000
50.000
30.000
35.000
35.000
60.000
60.000
38.000
30.000
60.000
30.000
200.000
46.000
16.000
30.000
34.000
200.000
85.000
30.000
28.000
15.000
436.364
272.727
13.637
109.091

.072
.156
.268
.120
.240
.420
.660
.180
.420
.216
.240
.264
.600
.420
.360
.216
.480
.300
1.440
.360
.120
.180
.264
2.160
.600
.300
.264
.132
1.863
1.530
.077
1.545

.393
.446
.402
.288
. .288
.420
.600
. ...216
.504
.432
.411
.453
.600.
.420
.568
.432
.480
.600
.432
.470
.450
.360
.466
.648
.424
.600
.566
.528
.256
.337
.339
.850

2,266.819

16.467

.436

545.46
285.72
150.00
240.00
120.00
100.00
90.91
120.00
120.00
200.00
171.43
171.43
100.00
100.00
.157.89
■ 200.00
100.00
200.00
30.00
130.43
375.00
200.00
176.47
30.00
70. S9
200.00
214.29
400.00
13.75
22.00
439.98
55.00

121

ESTABLISHMENT N Q . 45.

T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y DISTRICT, D E P A RTM E N T, AN D OPERATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 6 .—

Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter oxford, ,single sole, 8/8 leather heel with
rubber top lift—Continued.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.
Outsoles, leather1____ ______________________________
Insoles, leather1____________________________________
Counters, leather1_________________________________
Box toes, leather1__________________________________
Hfifils, lp.flt.hAr, R /R 1
_______
__ __

84. Ill
110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

$0,892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

$0,637
.581
.496
.545
.461

Stock fitting:
Wet and split outsole...............................................
Separate and tie..........................................................
Assemble welt insoles................................................
Round insoles.............................................................
Stamp insole sizes.......................................................
Channel insoles..........................................................
Scour insoles..............................................................
Wet insoles and turn lips..........................................
Sort and tie insoles....... ................... .........................
Match outsoles and insoles........................................
Floor work..................................................................
Sweep..........................................................................
Organization............... ...............................................

10.000
10.000
20.000
25.000
10.000
45.000
10.000
45.000
20.000
10.000
136.364
13. 637
27.273

.120
.120
.228
.288
.132
.540
.108
.324
.228
.132
.578
.082
.364

.720
.720
.684
.691
.792
.720
.648
.432
.684
.792
.254
.361
.801

Total _____ ....

____

382.274

3.304

.519

Total, sole-leather department_____________

1,272.671

10.865

.512

45.000
45.000
130.000
130.000
130.000
260.000
27.273
13. 637
27.273
54.545

.480
.420
1.560
1.860
1.860
3.720
.207
.077
.237
.773

.640
.560
.720
.858
.858
.859
.455
.339
.521
.850

862.728

11.194

600.00
600.00
300.00
240.00
600.00
. 133.33
600.00
133.33
300.00
600.00
44.00
439.98
220.00

.779

LASTING DEPARTMENT.
Prepare for laster...............................................................
Tack insoles and oil lasts..................................................
Assemble...........................................................................
Pull over, machine......... ....... ........................................
Side last, machine............................................................
Operate bed machine........................................................
Odd shoe work..................................................................
Sweep................................................................................
General work....................................................................
Organization.....................................................................
Total __ __ _
_

_

________

BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.
Trim uppers......................................................................
Staple uppers....................................................................
Pull inseam tacks...................... ......................................
Wet, groove, and inseam (Goodyear).............................
Pull insole tacks.................................................. ............
Trim inseams....................................................................
Make and ta^k joints.......................................................
Beat, sort, and^ay shanks...... ........................................
Tack shanks sind fill bottoms..........................................
Cement bottoms...............................................................
Cement soles . ...................................................................
Mold soles and tack seats...............................................\

133.33
133.33
46.15
46.15
46.15
23.08
220.00
439.98
220.00
110.00

30.000
.300
.600
200.00
30.000
.276
.552
200.00
35.000
.384
.658
171.43
120.000
.900
50.00
1.800
.204
.408
200.00
30.000
1.029
35.000
.600
171.43
.492
.984
30.000
200.00
45.000
.640
133.33
.480
45.000
.640
133.33
.480
400.00
15.000
.720
.180
.216
.648
300.00
20.000
.732
100.00
60.000
.732
100.00
1.008
60.000
1.008
Rough round and channel...............................................
200.00
.720
30.000
.360
Turn channels...................................................................
200.00
.420
.840
30.000
Reduce shanks..................................................................
50.00
.900
Goodyear stitch.................................................................
120.000
1.800
133.33
.396
.528
Cement and lay channels................................................
45.000
90.91
.709
66.000
.780
Level..................................................................................
157.89
.396
.625
38.000
Pull lasts...........................................................................
200.00
30.000
.276
.552
Nail seats...........................................................................
400.00
.144
.576
15.000
Round seats......................................................................
133.33
.640
45.000
.480
Bre.ak shanks....................................................................
300.00
20.000
.180
.540
Mold shanks.....................................................................
133.33
.480
.640
45.000
Staple and beat toes..........................................................
.341
..188
55.00
109.091
Feed heels........................................................................
.864
.691
80.00
75.000
Heel...................................................................................
. 400.00
.480
15.000
.120
Cement top lifts................................................................
80.00
.816
.653
75.000
Chalk lasts and second lasting.........................................
.691
80.00
.864
Trim heels.........................................................................
75.000
1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several represent­
ative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




122

TIME AND LAfeOB COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT,

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued.
M I D - W B S T E B N B I S T R I C T — Continued.
E s ta b lis h e m e to t N o .

15.—Women’s Goodyear welt, whole garter oxford, tingle sole, 8/8 leather heel with
rubber top Kft—Continued.

Time cost
Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

bottoming dbpartment—concluded.
Breast................... ......... - ....................- ................... ..............
Sand top lifts and breasts..............................1.....................
Feather................................................. - .................................
Trim edges_______________ __________ — ..........................
Organization............................................................................

Total........ _

________________________________

Hourly
wages.

45.000
30.000
25.000
15a 000
27.273

$0,420
,240
.276
2.100
.409

$0,560

1,665.364

19.314

.696

50.006
210.000
46000
46000
30.000
46 000
20.000
55.000
30.000
30.000
40.000
60.000
60.000
45.000
35.000
20.000
27.273
13.637
54.545

.540
2.580
.276
.396
.240
.360
.144
.420
.480
.480
.300
.660
.456
.300
.144
.201
.■077
.745

.648
.737
.414
.594
.480
.540
.432
.458
.960
.960
.450
.660
.660
.514
.432
.442
.339
.820

900.455

9.459

.630

25.000
30.000
30.000
240.000
30.000
60.000
40.000
40.000
30.000
45.600
13.637
54.545
54.545
300.000
54.545

.180
.180
.180

.409
1.406
.591

.432
.360
.360
.600
.300
.600
.486
.360
.384
.608
.339
.550
.450
.281
.650

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

133.33

.480

200.90

.662
.840
.900

240.90
40.00
220.00

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.

Scour heels...................................................................... ........
Set edges and fudge, first and second tim es........- ..........
Ink edges..................................................................... .......... .
Emery heels................................................................ - ..........
Prime, first time........................................................ - ..........
Slick heels.................................................................... - ..........
Bevel heel edges— ................................................... ............
Ink heels and heel seats............................................ - ..........
Huff bottom............................................................................
Ntomkeag............................... - ................................. ............
Ink bottoms.and shanks.......................................... ............
Finish heels...................—.......................................... ............
Finish bottoms and shanks................. .................. ...........
Clean brush___ _______________________________________
Brush yarn...............................................................................
..................................... ........
Stamp bottoms....................... -•
Odd shoe work.......................................................................
Sweep.........- ................... - .......................................... ...........
Organization__________________________________________

Total

_ __________________________________

.M O

.668

120.00
28.57
150.00
150.00
200.00
150.00
300.00
109.09
200.00
200.00
150; 00
100.00
100.00
133.33
171.43
300.00
220.00
439.98
110.00

TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.

E m b o ss...,___________ ____ _________ ________________
Sock lining.................................................................... .........
Clean and tree, hand............. ..............................................
Inspect, clip a n d reverse...................................... .............
Repair uppers................ ...........................- ........ - ........ .........
Dress single and double___________ ____________ ______
Lace..........................................................................................
Brush heel edges and bottoms..............................................
Pack and stamp............ .................... ..................... .............
Sweep............................. ............................................... ........
Ship.................................................................................. ........

Operate elevators

__________

__

T

General work................. , .......... ............................................
Organization................... ........................................................

2.400
1.300

.800

.324
.240
.192
.456
.-077

.500

Total...............................................................................

1,047.272

9.235

9,432.128

93.591

20600

25.00
200.90
100.90
150.00
150.00
200.00
133.33
439.98
110.00
110.00
20.90
110.90

.529

Grand total

*
240.00

200.00

.595

i~
E s ta b lis h m e n t N o .

ir

- -

^

T

'
1
1 "
4 6 — Women's McKay, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with
rubber top lift.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT.

Selecting dies lor cutters..,________ _ _ ____________
_
Cut outsides, hand............................... .................................
Sort outsides, stamp, mark, sort, assemble linings and
trimmings
_ . nT
n
, __
Skive uppers..........................................................................
. Mark quarters.......................................................................
Perforate tips, etc............... ................. ................................
Mark for t i p s ......................................... .......... ...................
Cut linings, hand..................................................................
Stamp outsides..... ............ ...................... ................... ..........
Floor work...............................................................................
Sweep.................................... ..................................... ............
Organization................................... .........................................

381.818
600.960

$0,914
6.846

$0,144
.684

190.900
75.000
30.900
30.900
30.000
240.900
50.000
545.454
16.936
193.936

2.280
.792
.216
.240
.240
2.484
.312
.091
2.000

.720
.634
.432
.480
.480
.621
.374
.232
.340
.733

Total. . . . . . . . . . . . ____ ____. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ____

2,351.944

16.279

*415




2.106

15.71
10.90
31.58
80.90
m oo

200.00
200.00
25.00
120.00
11.00
374.16
36.67

ESTABLISHMENT NO. 46,

123

TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPE RATION—Continued.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 6 .—

Women’s McKay, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with
rubber top lift—Continued.

Department and operation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

STITCHING DEPARTMENT.

Cement uppers____ .
T _ ________
Paste staysand quarters__________________________
Fold vamps, machine
......... ......
Fold quarters, machine _ . ........
Fold tips, machine . . . . . . r ..........
_ _ _
Paste vamp linings
T
T
_
_____
Close quarters
....
. __
Stay quarters___________________________________
Stitch*lace stays_________________________________
Sfcitch tips
...
_ _______ ______
dope linings ...........
M afra linings, etc _
. .
_
_
Top stitch ~ , , . . . . ._ . .... . _
Eyelet . _
___ _ . _ _ _ _
Tack hacks
r ... _
____
Sort ff> vampers
r
^
Vamp
*
_
_
Seam toes___
Tape tongues
.
_
T __
_
Tack fronts._. _ r_
, T
Lace. _
, , ,
_ __r __
Pack and inspect
_
, __ . _
_
Odd shoo work .
Floor work
Sweep
_
......
Machinist’s work _
Organization _ .
Total _

_

____________

60.000
45.000
50.000
60.000
25.000
50.000
30.000
30.000
75.003
70.000
30.000
65.000

$0,384
.192
.360
.480
.180
.144
.216
.216
.540
.600
.180
.600

50.000
60.000
30.000

.300
.360
.216
1.920
.600

60.000
30.000
30.000
28.000
60.000
54.545
218.182
9.636
54.545
163.636

.216
.216
.300
.236
1.035
.055
.600
1.945

$0,384
.256
.432
.480
.432
.173
.432
.432
.432
.514
.360
.554
.343
.360
.360
.432
.549
.600
.240
.432
.463
.300
.260
.285
.342
.660
.713

1,858.547

13.411

.433

84.111
110.404
158.915
113.788
423.179

.892
1.069
1.314
1.033
3.253

.637
.581
.496
.545
.461

45.000

.400

21.600
45.000
50.000
21.600
11. 520
25.920
50.000
30.000
16.036
54.545
54.545

.180
.360
.480
.180
.096
.216
.420
.240
.091
.449
.509

.533
.600
.500
.480
.576
.560
.500
.500
.504
.480
.340
.494
.560

10 0
0 .0
133.33
10 0
2 .0
10 0
0 .0
240.00
10 0
2 .0
20 0
0 .0
20 0
0 .0

20 0
1 .0 0
20 0
1 .0 0

10
.2 0

.120

80.00
85.71

20 0
0 .0
92.31
28. 57

10 0
2 .0
10 0
0 .0
20 0
0 .0
28.57
10 0
0 .0
20 0
0 .0
20 .0
00
214.29
10 0
0 .0
10 0
1 .0
27.50
622/67

10 0
1 .0
36.67

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Opt-soles, leather I
.
T Ics, leather 1. ._
rso
__________ ______
Counters, leather l
.
.. .
Bot toes, leather l
,. .. . _ . . ..
Heels, leather, 8/81 ______ _ _
Stock fitting:
Wet, round, sj^lit, and assemble.
Round flfn tie insoles .
r!
.
Mark sizes, insoles and mitsoles
Channel mitsoles.._ . _
_
______
Lay welts and cement soles .
_
_.
Reduce shanks
Mold outsoles
_ ___
. .. T . .
Turn ontsnie channels
....
_
Fairstitoh outsoles, black and brown fudge
Ink and tie outsoles, flesh outsoles___ ___________
Sweep
. _
_
. . .
...
General work ..
_
Organization
_
_
Total

__r____________T
___________

Total, sole-leather department

......

2 .0 0
00

.200

445.766

3.821
11.382

.360
.240
.900
1.320
1.320
2.400
.240
.180
.360
1.080

.480
.320
.415
.609
.609
.554
.240
.240
.480
.370

10 0
2 .0
20 0
0 .0
10 0
1 .0
10 0
1 .0

374.16

.507

45.000
45.000
130.000
130.000
130.000
260.000
60.000
45.000
45.000
175.000

10 0
2 .0

277.80
520.83
231.48

.514

1,346.163

133.33
300.00
277.80
133.33

LASTING DEPARTMENT.

Oet UP lasts, match uppers and tongues
_ _ _
Took insoles on lasts and chalk lasts .
__
Assemble . . . .
... . . . . _
rir
Pull over and hox toes, machine __ _ _ T
Ride last, machine
.
Opiate bed machine
.
,. r
Grind toes . _
...
. . .
Pull tacks
___
Fill shanks and bottoms. __
Tack outsoles and toes...................................................

133.33
133.33
46.15
46.15
46.15
23.08

10 0
0 .0

133.33
133.33
34.29

1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre­
sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.




124

t im e

and

labor

costs—

MID-WESTERN

d is t r ic t .

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923,
B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Concluded.
M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Concluded.
E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 6 .—

Women’s McKay, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with
rubber top lift—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and operation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked on
per hour.

LASTING DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Pull lasts
,' _
Odd shoft work
ftwep.p
’
Organization

__ _
-

__ .
_ _

38.000
54.545
9.636
54.545

Total____ 1__________________________________

$0,264
.316
.055
.727

$0,417
.348
.342
.800

1,221.726

9.762

.479

75.000
30.000
35.000
35.000
70.000
28.800
45.000
50.000
40.000
45.000
15.000
109.091
75.000
20.000
135.000
12.836
54.545

.720
.180
.144
.156
.480
.192
.600
.660
.264
.396
.144
.315
.984
.240
1.380
.073
.564

.576
.360
.247
.267
.411
.400
.800
.792
.396
.528
.576
.173
.787
.720
.613
.341
.620

875.272

7.492

.514

40.000
45.000
165.000
25.000
30.000
30.000
25.000
50.000
45.000
40.000
25.000
30.000
30.000
40.000
12.836
54.545

.312
.420
1.680
.360
.396
.396
.360
.516
.516
.540
.360
.216
.264
.240
.073
.564

.468
.560
.611
.864
.792
;792
.864
.619
' .688
.810
.864
.432
.528
.360
.341
.620

*687.381

-T_ _

7.213

.630

25.000
51.432
88.620
225.000
32.000
40.000
86.400
30.857
40.000
23.745
109.091
12.836
54.545

.144
.300
.591
1.620
.240
.480
.576
.180
.300
.119
1.000
.073
.455

.346
.350
.400
.432
.450
.720
.400
.350
.450
.301
.550
.341
.501

157.89
110.00
622.66
110.00

BOTTOM
ING DEPARTMENT.

i

i

i
i

i

i

MeEAy sew arid wet up
_
... _
Nail seats
_
_ ___ ___
Cement channels. _______
__
_
___
T;ay channels
_
Rott and level ‘
........
_. _
.
Piece heels and flex............................................................

TfiTrt herfs .
_ .
Breast __
_
_ ___
._
Last^ second time
. . .
Tiftfift_ r
Feed heeler
T _ _
_
Heel. _ _ _ _ _
. _
______
Feather.
_
—
___ _
______
Trim edges
_
. ........ .
Sweep
_
Organization
Total

___

_________________

80.00
200.00
171.43
171.43
85.71
208.33
133.33
120.00
15a 00
133.3&
400.00
55.00
8a 00
300.00
44.44
476.44
110.00
_ .

FINISHING DEPARTMENT.
Reonr and knife breasts . . .
_
Scoiir heels _
__ _
Set edges _
1 _
__
_ _____ __ _
__. _
Fiidge or wheel
Sand bottoms
..
_ _ ... _
_ .......
Nanmkeag
Emery heels_______________________________________
Edge heels, emery and ink breasts
__. .
Finish heels
Finish bottoms
_ _ __ ______ ____ _. _.
Clean iippers__
_
______
Brush yarn
_
_
_
Pull and sort lasts _
Slick heels
__ _ _ _ __ ___ _ _ _________ _
Sweep
_ __
. . . ___
_
_
Organization. _
_______
_ _r _„
Total

_

_ ......

_

_

_____

• TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.
Bort__
__
_
_
Sock lining
_ ___ _______________ _ .
Repair patent leather
_
Iron and clean, hand
Brush yarn
____
__ _
.. _ _
Inspect
...
__ _
_ _ _ __
Dress_____________________________________________
Lace
_
_
Pack
_
_
_ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ ___ _ _
Odd shoe work ____ _ . _ ____ _ __
_
ShipSweep
_
_ ___
Organization ____
..... ..._.
_ . _. _
......
Total _
Grand total __




_

_ __________ ____ ...

...

819.526

6.079

.445

9,150.559

71.618

.470

15a oo

133.33
36.36
240.00
200.00
200.00
240.00
120.00
133.33
150.00
240.00
200.00
200.00
150.00
467.44

m oo

24a 00
116.66
67.70

' 26.67

187.50
150.00
. 69.45
194.45
150.00
252.69
55.00
467.44
110.00

COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND DEPARTMENTS.

125

SELECTED OPERATIONS AND DEPARTMENTS, BY ESTABLISHMENTS.

The first of the following tables presents, by establishments, time
and labor costs for work at each of 17 selected operations for each
kind of shoe (men’s and women’s), for each process (welt and McKay),
and for high shoes and low shoes.
The second table presents time and labor costs for each depart­
ment and for the establishment as a whole, covering all operations in
all departments.
84791°—24f----- 9




126

C ^ T -^ E t J & j i E D ' O PER ATIO N S A N D D E P A R T M E N T S.
T IM E A N D LABOR C 0 8T S IN M AN U F A C T U R IN G 106 PAIRS O F SH O ES. 1933,

Estab­
lish­
ment
No.

Cut vamp
and whole shoe,
machine.

Out vamp
and whole shoe,
hand.
Time
cost
(minutes)

Time
cost
(minutes)

Labor
cost.

Labor
cost.

Eyelet.

Stitch tips.

Time
cost
(minutes)

Labor
cost.

Vamp.

Time
Time
Labor
cost
cost .
(minutes) cost. (minutes)

Labor
cost.

M EN’ S G O O D Y EAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES.
325.000
270.000
480.208
400.000
273.333
300.000
750.000
1,000.000

6.380
4.267
3.367

500.000
402.000

812.600

$4,460
3.310
6.483

6.563
4.680

$9,350

11.500
14.167

44.000
90.000
46.875
41. 670
93.000
43.333
66.400
50.000
69.792
41.146
50.000

$0,292
.585
.441
.496
1.520
.417
.350
.425
1.053
.417
.220

28.000
39.000
26.042
33.330
31.000
43.333
23.000
69.583
38.542
26.042
48.000

$0,282
.210
.281
.544
.480
.333
.200
.604
.729
.375
.230

323.000
360.000
265. 625
291. 670
250.000
258.333
125.000
264.000
375.000
280.208
260.000

$2,910
3.310
2.948
3.674
4.100
3.417
1.585
3.667
5.054
2.708
1.800

$0,310
.394

250.000
244.556

$3.131
3.261

$a282
.257
.146

323.000
182.000
141.667

$2.910
2.207
1.063

180.000
340.000
270.000
262.000
119.444
134.259
145.518
395.833
120.822
179.166

$2.750
4.550
1.600
2.100
2.215
1.917
1.500
3.750
1.470
2.389

MEN’S GOODYEAR WELT LOW SHOES •
10
21

604.167

$8,542

584.848

$7,895

62.500
80.303

$0,563
.974

33.333
29.545

MEN’S M cKAY HIGH SHOES.
15
19
25

325.000
46& 000
202.000

$4,460
6.439
2.013

44.000
44.000
56.250

$0,292
.343
,.271

28.000
42.000
18.750

WOMEN’S GOODYEAR WELT LOW SHOES.
5
6
7
11
23
26
35
40
41
44
45

400.000
480.000
720.000
400.000
416.667

$8,200
7.000
6.000
4.050
5.667

313.818
531.250
495.000
473.340
500.000

3.350
8.500
8.000
7.889
7.500

95.000

$5,500

58.000
52.778
60.185
54.136
87.500
61. Ill

319.444

$1,000
.360
.319
.542
.300
.792

30.000
35.000
40.000
52.000
27.778
26.852
22.873
62.500

$0,333
.400
.220
.360
.333
.168
.190
.521

.417

46.296

.389

1
!
1
!
|
i
1
i
!
|

............... 1

WOMEN’S GOODYEAR WELT HIGH SHOES.
18
22

776.669
600.000

$14.670
10.500

57.000
60.000

$0,770
.660

81.000
36.000

$0.810
.500

370.286
540.000

$4,320
5.310

$1,680
3.000
3.650
4.861
3.056
1.444
1.917
1.667
4.000
2.000
2.750
1.500
1.920

$2,750

WOMEN’S M cKAY LOW SHOES.
12
14

16
17
20
24
27
29
31
32
36
39
» 46

337.000
360.000
468.000
458.333
416.667

50.000

263.8S9
207.407
182.292
450.000
381.944

8.375
6.250

313.818
600.000

3.350
6.840

$1.794
3.398
2.375

222.220

4.583

$0,300

59.000

$0,390

75.000
41.667

$3,540
5.000
7.250
7.639
7.500

.700
.522

44.000

.400

60.185
45.312

.542
.333

55.556
26.852
31.250

.250
.168
.250

69.440
5*135
70.000

.528
.300
.600

41.670
22.873
50.000

.917
.190
.300

224.000
360.000
300.000
263.889
194.444
138.889
134.259
160.417
391.000
184. 611
208.330
145.513
210.000

$0,560

190.000

WOMEN’S M cKAY HIGH SHOES.
13

467.000

$7,780




100.000

$0,835

ea 000

COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND* DEPARTMENTS,
BY

SELECTED

OPERATIONS, K IN D

Channel outsole and
insole.

Round outsole and
insole.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

OF SHOE, A N D

ESTABLISH M EN T.

Operate bed machine.

Pull-over, machine.

Time cost
(minutes).

127

Labor
cost.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Estab­
lish­
ment
No.

M EN ’ S G O O D Y EAR W E L T H IG H SHOES*
11.650
11.000
16.667
20.000
15.000
12.500

$0,115
.275
.143
.262
.190
.167

.41.471
ai. 250
26.042
11.000

.504
.267
.208
.090

$0,323
.620
.450
.450
.400
.375
.283
.720
.450
.284
.240

34.200
35.000
19.792
33.330
26.000
25.000
24.000
54.568
33.333
26.042
25.000

116.000
128.700
125.000
104.170
80.000
108.333
£3.000
125.000
98.958
109.375
98.000

$1.210
1.930
1.587
1.723
1.600
1.500
1.058
2.167
1.563
1.667
1.080

240.000
270.000
383.333
375.000
192.000
265.000
200.000
425.000
427.083
302.083
300.000

$2.500
4.130
-4.820
4.877
3.500
3.750
.2.583
<6.500
4.879
3.042
2.960

1
2
3
4
8
9
28
30
33
34
38

387.500
243.939

$4,225
4.875

10
21

195.000

$2,000

208.333

2.000

15
19
25

$3,583
3.700
1.250
2.040
3.194
2.167
2.520
4.000
3.660
2.917
3.720

5
6
7
11
23
26
35
40
41
44
45

270.000
165.000

$3,870
3.880

18
22

180.000
150.000
256.000
241.667

$1,860
2.750
4.000
3.139

166.667
161. Ill
148.437
240.000
278.783

1.722
1.175
2.500
4.005
3.194

142.095
260.000

2.220
2.400

12
14
16
17
20
24
27
29
31
32
38
39
46

M EN ’ S G O O D Y EAR W E LT L O W S H O ES .
33.333

$0,342

$0,450
.450

37.500
34.848

116.667
87.879

$1.563
1.725

M EN ’S M e K A Y H IG H SH O ES.
18. 550

$0,146
.276
.167

16.800
16.000
16.667

$0.157

16.458

.172

92.000
100.000
67.917

$0.959
1.128
.625

W O M E N ’S GOO D YEAR W E L T L O W SH O ES.

27.500
18.000
13.889
27.778
28.422
33.333
32.000
92.592
25.000

40.000
40.000
30.000
35.000
33.333
32. 407
58.074
55.556
40.000
36. I ll

$0,225
.150
.155
.231
.180
.313
.383
1.019
.288

$0.669
.450
.238
.330
.450
.366
.370
.579
.360
.528

90.000
120.000
120.000
106.000
111. Ill
111. Ill
71.964

$1,583
1.850
1.250
1.080
1.694
1.350
.900

80.000
106.481
130.000*

1.830
1.667
1.860

180.000
180.000
120.000
200.000
-244.444
111. Ill
223. 938
375.000
240.000
250.000
260.000

W O M EN ’ S G O O D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES.
23.000
25.000

$0,295
.300

$0,880
.670

45.000
45.000

*860.000
2 540.000

i.$10.890
2 10.800

W O M EN ’S M lK A Y L O W SH O ES.
18.000
30.000
18.500
14.584
19.444
22.222
23.149
26.000
27.778
26.385
16.098
20.000

22.000
35.000
15.000
15.681
25.000
12.500
37.037
28.263
40.000
2 33.333
41.670
22.979
45.000

$0,150
.250
.230
.167
.300
.135
.195
.188
.250
.266
.130
.200

$0:195
.330
.210
.222
.419
.083
.315
.319
.625
».339
.362
.180
.360

71.000
90.000
118.000
100.000
100.000
61. Ill
111. Ill
78.125
100.000
87.500
69.440
56.727
130.000

$0,750
1.800
1.850
1.389
1.500
.583
1.100
1.083
1.800
1.389
1.333
.740
1.320

W OM EN’ S M e K A Y H IG H SH O ES.
1290.090

*$4,590

------------------ <
!
*Hand work.




* Indudes side lasting.

1 Includes stamping*

COST— SELECTED

128

o p e r a t io n s

and

departm ents,

T IM E A N D L ABO R COSTS IN M ANUFACTURING* 100 PAIRS OF SHOES, 1923, B Y
ctt:

1"

Welt, Goodyear.
Estab> lic K IlSD
ment.
Time cost
Labor
No.
(minutes).
cost.

Rough, round.
Time cost
(minutes).

Stitch, Goodyear.

Labor
cost.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Sew, McKay.
Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

M EN ’ S G O O D Y E A R W E L T H IG H SH O ES.

'

87.000
70.000
133.333
125.000
74 000
106.067
71.383
93.833
151.042
71.875
60.000

$1.182
1.585
2.250
2.475
1.600
2.083
1.100
2.150
2.475
1.813
.840

60.000
70.000
46.354
58.330
64000
54.167
50.000
53.250
62.500
43.229
48.000

$0,688
1.170
1.125
1.200
1.250
1.083
.692
1.220
1.200
1.014
.660

172.500
125.000
97.396
166.670
137.000
126.667
83.000
173.303
131.250
123.438
120.000

$1.915
2.135
2.550
2.925
2.250
2.292
1.567
3.250
2.925
2.375
1.480

'

M EN ’ S G O O D Y E A R W E L T L O W SH O ES.
125.000
98.485

10
21

$2,475
2.250

83.333
75.758

$1,200
1.125

208.333
159.091

$2,925
2.625

M EN’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES.
64.200
63.000
74 583

$0,667
.919
.635

W O M E N ’ S G O O D Y E A R W E L T L O W SH O ES.
90.000
120.000
120.000
135.000
66.667
179. Ill
77.418
160.417
120.000
83.340
120.000

$2,708
2.250
1.000
1.380
1.667
2.000
1.500
3.750
2.230
1.667
-1.800

35.000
55.000
sa 000
58.000
47.222
30.556
42.961
145.833
69.000
55.556
60.000

$1,200
1.250
.600
.600
1.000
.292
.680
1.594
1.230
1.028
1.008

135.000
130.000
190.000
161.000
111. Ill
107.407
151.578
281.250
158.000
114 815
120.000

$3,000
2.400
1.650
1.650
2.083
1.750
2.000
3.125
2.370
2.361
1.800

!

1

W O M E N ’ S G O O D Y EAR W E LT H IG H SH O ES.
18
22

136.000
120.000

$2,920
2.700

78.000
45.000

$1,300
1.200

148.000
135.000

$3,240
3.300

W O M E N ’ S M cK A Y L O W SH O ES.
•




31.250

$0,417

140.625

$1.667

57.000
60.000
95.000
69.444
100.000.
38.889
87.968
76.562
120.000
87.083
55.560
68.966
75.000

$0,600
810
1.500
.972
2.000
.472
.641
.750
2.000
.900
.917
.770
.720

120.000

$1,250

W O M EN ’ S M cK A Y H IG H SH O ES.

COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND DEPARTMENTS,

129

SELECTED OPERATIONS, K IN D OF SHOES, A N D E ST A B L IS H M E N T —Concluded.

Trim or shave heels.
Time cost
(minutes)

Labor
cost.

Trim edges.
Time cost
(minutes).

Set edges.

Labor
cost.

Time cost
(minutes).

.

Labor
cost.

Tree.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Establishment.
No.

M EN ’ S GOO D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES.
34.200
37.000
30.208
33.330
40.000
41.667
27.783
58.333
46.875
50.000
27.000

$0,386
.620
.900
.733
.750
.750
.300
1.550
.713
.639
.280

115.000
160.000
135.417
133.330
137.000
130.000
142.767
241.667
177.083
166.667
80.000

$1,500
2.690
3.075
3.075
2.500
2.625
2.017
3.600
3.075
2.625
.980

123.500
141.000
223.958
187.500
133.000
129.167
74.000
196.250
187.500
187.500
80.000

$1,386
2.690
3.075
3.075
2.000
1.683
.770
3.270 '
3.075
2.542
.980

178.000 . $1,540
195.000
1.340
3.114
298.958
395.830
5.000
41.500
4 96.000
218.333.
2.500
* 142.700
6 1.733
411.417
5.000
375.000
4.950
1.917
156.250
2 .0 0 0
184.000

2
3
4
8
9
28
30
33
34
38

,562.500
636.364.

$5,830
6.205

10
21

$ 1 7 8 ,0 0 0

$1,540
* 1.472
*1.083

15
19
25

$4,020
1.500
2.500
*1.830
.944
2.500
1.850
3.000
4 1.250
2.944
2.400

5
6
7
11
23
26
35
40
41
44
45

303.750

$4,050

18
22

*144.000
230.000
143.000
156.944
333.333
144.444
189.815
286.979
288.000
296.333
168.000
156.338
4 225.000

*$1,200
2.250
1.600
3.194
7.000
.833
1.450
2.083
2.500
3.556
1.750
1.850
<1.620

12
14
16
17
20
24
27
29
31
32
36
39
46

4 58.000

<$0,900

13

1

M E N ’S GO O D Y E A R W E LT L (>W SH O ES .
62.500
46.970

$0,900
.900

166.667
163.636

$3,075
3.075

166.667
168.182

$3,075
3.075

M EN ’ S M cK A Y H IG H SH O ES.
30.000
37.000
26.667

$0,313
.441
.250

100.000
148.000
93.750

$1,000
1.625
.917

6 8 .0 0 0

112.000
40.833

$0,709
1.349
.313

* 112.000
*62.500

W O M E N ’ S GOODYEIAR W E L T LO W SH O ES .
25.000
5 0 .0 0 0

60.000
36.000
27.778
17.593
55.374
96.667
60.000
27.778
75.000

$0,875
1.000
.567
.330
.694
.244
.450
1.625
.990
.694
.864

150.000
160.000
150.000
160.000
130.556
171 .2 9 6
235.470
200.000
170.000
158.333
150.000

$3,000
2.750
1.500
1.620
2.479
1.784
1.580
2 .5 0 0

2.720
2.556
2.100

140.000
210.000
240.000
162.000
155.556
203.704
237.540
333.333
*180.000
177.778
210.000

$2,750
3.500
1.900
1.650
2.479
2.476
1.580
3.750
*3.950
2.500
2.580

270.000
180.000
180.000
*220.000
97.222
138.889
156.336
360.000
4 64.660
263.889
240.000

W O M E N ’ S G O O D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES.
!

63.000
45.000

$1.530
.830

170.000
345.000

$4,090
3.630

235.000
120.000

$4,030
2.790

W O M E N ’ S M cK A Y L O W SH O ES.
37.000

$0,330

89.000
50.000
41.667
26.389
29.630
45.312

1.400
.417
1.028
.278
.360
.500

93.056
41.670
53.959
50.000

1.750
.583
.410
.660

140.000
60.000
173.000
144.444
136. I ll
69.444
164.815
95.312
240.000
137.500
111. 110
76.396
135.000

$1,470
1.250
2.400
1.833
2.333
.694
1.488
1.250
3.699
2.139
1.389
.910
1.380

94.000
120.000
162.000
125.000
150.000
116.667
78.704
88.021
270.000
111. Ill
69.450
117.947
165.000

$0,990
1.620
2.550
1.667
2.625
.917
.683
1.250
3.656
1.575
1.306
1.540
1.680

WO£MEN’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES .
42.000

$0,630
* Ironing.




74.000

$1,050

60.000

* Machine operation.

$1,050

• Includes wheeling.

cm ?— m&Mwm opm&Tims

and w

m

s t i s .

T IM E ANiD L A B O R . COSTS IN M A N * J F A C T U $ IN 0 add BA IR S OF SHOES,

Es­
tate
lisbme»t
No.

Cutting department.

Time cost ,
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Stitching department.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
•ost.

Sole-leather depart­
ment.
Time cost
(minutes?).

Labor
cost.

Lasting department.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

M EN ’ S G O O D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES.
1
2
3
4
8
9
28
: 30
33
34
38

38.503
10.906
10.891
18.218
21.446
M 899
L
,9.130
19. 695
22.333
,13.063
8.301

896.490
1,333.162.
919.125
1,744.384
1,920.090.
877.631
975.7841,442.734
1,823.559
1,154.680
1,033.071

1,554.936
3,578.624
AD11-883
1,-808.403 •
% 193.090
1,743.712
1,360.974
2,867.187»
2,113.853
1,879.258
1,695.871

$10,638
22.566
17.030
•18.224
25.672
16.305
10.760
26.728
23.062
.17.075
8.764

-810.290
1,:047.812
-.910.992
<936.851.
1,828.950
.1,054.576
;1,;026.150.
1,098.452
1,071.480.
1,045.470
505.962

$6,928
11.272
8.740
8.328
12.935
9.481
9.069
11.736
9.625
8.160
4.395

679.420
1,084.424
1,143.749
1,001.330
676.090
841.546
593.668
1,307.933
1,383.578.
802.249
684.771

$6.562
13.276
12.932
13.094
ia966
11.397
6.752
18.738
14. I ll
9.313
6.642

1,258.334
854.243

$14,848
12.995

692.270
707.375
818.803

$0,483
.6.800
6.726

=578.500
905.000
56a 000
845.000
776.632
576.292
1,302.820
1,912.159
1,415.410
828.918
862.728

$11,472
14.400
5.000
7.420
9.892
7.300
11.344
20.517
15.774
ia486
11.194

$18,589
12.485;

1,190.858
782.641

$15. 621
16.137

$9,797
11.745'
22.718.
10.326
21.327
A. 665!
9.900:
9.266
9.072;
20.677:
11.033
0.585.
11.382

901.000
955.000
.1,031.500
1,081.841
1,006.113
719.599
836.211
852.373
1,266.000
926.458
650.700
908.904
1,221.726

$7,058
13.850
13.200
11.789
12.715
5.699
6.973
9.283
17.000
20.811
■8.466
9.712
9.762

$9.271!

482.500

$7,503

M EN ’S G O O D Y E A B W E L T L O W S H O ES .
10
21

1,533.334.
952.727

$16,897
11.478

1,779.163'
1,904.117

$15,751
18.286

1,139.373
853.377

$10.770
8.060

M EN ’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O E S .
15
19
25

$8,503
19.233
7.665

896.490.
898.375
1,006.895

1,554.936
1,123.375
1,148.380

;H0.638:
8.930
6.972

$94,653
1,021.912
679.356

W O M EN ’ S G O O D Y E A B W E L T L O W
5
6
7
11
23
26
35
40
41
44
45

960.000
1,340.000
1,517.000
1,527.000.
1,256.627
846.109.
1,088.109
1,621.767.
1, .782.450
% 013.941
1,416.819

$13.583
.16.410
10.888
11.632
13.424
10.483
.8.776
18.024
19.471
21.445
17.057

1,665.000
.2,573.000
ir59a 000
2,094.000
1,441.712
1,527.536
1,781.060
4,056.023
5,211.365
1,881.909
2 , 266.819

$17.147
25.515
9.904
13.565
13.545
12.794
11.529
28.112
33.681
14.610
16.467

$7,741
9.324:
6* 375 (
SH O ES.

1,145.397
1,370.397
1,215.882
1,329.897
671.446.
1,231.903
1,360.347
1,603.623
1,448.697
1,270.092
1,272.671

$ia775
11.201
8.621
10.749
•6.021
9.785
10.604
14.265
12.346
12.669
ia865

W O M E N ’ S G O O D Y E A B W E L T H IG H S H O E S .
1,273.416
1,071.282

$21.112
16.685

2,467.494
1,900.641

$22,779
21.101

1,438.313
1,288.368

W O M EN ’ S M c K A Y L O W SH O ES .
12
14
16
17
20
24
27
29
31
32
36
39
46

1,093.000
1,680.000
1,014.000
1,849.542
§22.223
712.070 :
859.721
662.633
.2,649.000
1,080.532
1,047.1001
V08& 107
2,351.944

$8,475
13.300
13.030
18.558
13.544
4.671
7,980
.5.848
23.178
.221510
13.053
A 776
16.279

1, 576.000 i
2,420.000;
l r893.500
1,899.723
2,-763.889
2,553.090.
2,627.409'
2 ,08a 104
4,834.513
U 952.437
2,,608.020
1,781.033
1,858.547

$9,768
20.420
15.290
29.994
.21.535
7.989
14.237
8.415
41.641
19.127
17.341
21.529
13.411

1,221.397
942.548
1,-421.894
1,232.402
1,173.036
.579.692
1,;233.146.
1,090.611
949.548.
1,521.156
1,255.540
1,504.199
1,34a 163

W O M EN ’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES.
665.250

$ia359




1,09a 500

$ ia 9 i7 !

990.397

COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND tfl&ABTMENTS,

131

1923, B Y D EPAR T M EN T S, K IN D OP SHOE, A N D E S T A B L IS H M E N T .

Bottoming depart­
ment.

Finishing department.

Packing department.

Total, all operations.

Estab-

14cH
iiS B -

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

Time cost
(minutes).

Labor
cost.

ment
No.

M EN ’ S GOO D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O E S .
1,332.259
1,605.824
1,212. 772
1,371.950
1,274. 000
1,068.630
1,027.954
1, 354. 650
1,364.552
1, C96. 38.)
935.171

$12. 306
18.746
18.678
19.141
17. 996
18.154
11.532
21.845
20.404
17. 072
9.294

610.370
662.524
663.019
546.500
711.000
575.298
441. 517
1,193. 651
829. 975
740.208
514.571

$5,611
8.211
9.007
7.216
7.971
7.576
3.908
15.260
10.814
8.008
4.432

528.073
1,077.964
* 855. 250
1,162. 280
783.000
727. 798
638.725
961. 584
1,023.594
774.692
578.171

$4,076
7.421
7.198
10.917
7.686
7.018
5.957
11.118
9.962
6.695
4.742

6,411.739
10,390.334
7,716.740
8,571.648
8,885.950
6,889.191
6,064.722
10,226.191
9,610. 591
7,492.937
5,947.588

$54. 624
92.398
84.476
95.138
104.672
80.830
57.108
125.120
110.311
79.386
46.570

1
2
3
4
8
9
28
30
33
34
38

10,156.038
7,846.726

$107,972
90.375

1
0
2
1

5,533.259
5,911.341
4,990.513

$45,745
51.416
38.338

15
19
25

$93.626
107.866
68.588
75.864
71.209
67.985
73.570
140.607
1 a 455
2
100.799
93.591

6
6
7
1
1

23
26
35
40
41
44
45

10,206.309
8,404.624

$126,825
108.606

18
22

7,041.397
9,032.548
8,194394
8 5ia 350
,
7,659.150
5,324561
6,474819
5 ,69a 061
14,943.061
7,594.654
7,729.076
7,722.514
9,150.559

$51.552
107.455
82.368
86.976
101.580
35.991
53.917
50.593
159.456
79.277
74.753
61.047
71.618

24
27
29
31
32
36
39
46

4,633.647

$55,673

13

M E N ’ S GOODYEAR W E LT L O W SH O ES.
1,962.500
1,370.019

$24,558
20.206

945.834
742.676

$12,334
9.573

1,537.500
1,267.575

$12.814
10.787

M EN’ S M cK A Y H IG H SH O ES.
494.770
600.375
535.290

$4.312
6.209
4.099

462.070
554.375
342.741

$3,942
5.586
2.824

538.070
582.375
459.048

$4,126
4.334
3.677

W OM EN’ S G O ODYEAR W E LT L O W
1,041. 500
1,460.000
1,920.000
L 874.000
1,219. 250
1,513. 712
1,923.634
2,832.782
2,308.210
1,568. 737
1,665.364

$20,845
19.860
13. 343
14. 810
16.310
13.632
17.487
31.184
23.313
20.389
19.314

650.000
1,065. 000
980.000
1,063.000
750.439
860.818
837.848
1,729.336
1,467.340
997. 438
900.455

$11.800
14.310
6.633
7.935
8.135
8.296
6.489
17.903
16.080
11.258
9.459

691.000
780.000
2,577.000
1,345.000
572.-150
648.537
1,007.384
1,483.067
1,297.030.
1,442.667
1,047.272

SHO ES.

$8,004
6.170
14.199
9.753
3.882
5.695
7.341
10.602
7.790
11.654
9.235

6,731.397
9,493.397
10,359.882
10,077.897
6,688.256
7,204.907
9,301. 202
15,23& 757
14,930.502
10,003.702
9,432.128

W O M EN ’S G OODYEAR W E LT H IG H SH O ES .
1,692.697
1,47a 564

$26,803
22.107

1,157.234
848.923

$16.591
11.446

986.297
1,034.205

$10.330
8.643

W O M EN ’ S M cK A Y L O W SH O ES.
896.000
1,545.000
1,180.500
705.235
656.112
480.710
707.220
778.800
i,ooaooo
687.183
630.600
962:022
875.272

$6.180
21.260
12.950
7.193
11.397
4.464
5.760
8.257
14 704
9.525
7.240
7.275
7.492

742.000
1,175.000
1,092.000
644.554
794.444
602.549
512.224
620.810
3,503.000
913.945
792.670
770.867
687.381

$5.491
18.030
11.060
7.0£3
13.446
4875
4.612
5.237
43.136
9.017
a 168
6.829
7.213

812.000
915.000
561.000
1,424 753
1,343.333
676.851
698.889
607.730
1,243.000
812.943
1,344.440
1,007.382
819.526

$4,783
8.850
4120
11.663
17.616
3.638
4 455
4287
10.725
7.604
9.443
7.341
6.079

1
2

14
16
17

2
0

W O M EN ’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES .
|

558.875

$7,077




422.875

$5,969

417 250

$4577

ia2

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED,
PARTS PURCHASED, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION.

As has already been stated, many establishments purchase certain
>arts, such as outsoles, insoles, counters, heels, etc. It was thereore necessary, in order to be able to report as nearly as possible total
cost,figures for each establishment purchasing parts, to obtain cost
figures for the parts so purchased from establishments specializing in
the production of the parts. From the cost figures covering such
arts, averages were computed and used in arriving at the total cost
gures for each establishment which purchased parts. The detailed
figures used in arriving at the averages were furnished by the estab­
lishments from which the parts were purchased.

{

S

A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y EST A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION.
OU TSO LES, M EN ’ S .

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment and operation.

Establishment No. 47:
• Strip. _ ____ _
~ _ __ .
_
' Cut*
_ _ _____________
. __
Catch________________________________________________

_ -

- __
_

• Bag.................................. ........................................................
Case
, r
___
.
.
.

Organization _
T otal,..____

_

Establishment No. 48:

Strip

_ _

....

_.

_
.,

___

Cut.............................................................................................
Catch.._____ _____________ ____ ______________________
Sort and grade
. _ __
, r
Case and rack_______ _________________________________
.
_
Rag
__
....... _. ____
Organization _
T _

Total_ ____ ______ _ _,

Number
Hourly
of pairs
earnings. worked on
per hour.

,.

5.625
9.000
9.000
13.500
3R 000
10.000
10.000
3.000
-3.000
5.400

$0,057
.106
.045
.068
.343
.047
.061
.025
.025
.091

$0,606
.707
.303
.303
.687
.283
.364
.506
.506
1.010

98.525

Grade

Sort__________________________________________________

Tie
____ _ _________________
Rack__ _ __
__ _ ,_
_

Labor
Cost.

.868

.529

10.667
10.667
10.667
32.000
8.000
5.818
4.267

.111
.133
.037
.378
.056
.040
.067

.624
.748
.208
.709
.420
.413
.942

82.086

.822

8.372
8.372
a 372
30.000
8.250
2.092
7.788

.085
.101
.031
.343
.044
.014
.111

.609
.724
. 222
.686
.320
.402
.855

Total......................................................................................

73.246

.729

.597

Establishment No. 50:
Strip, stock. _
_ _ _ _ _
_ _
Cut ___ _ _ _
__
_ __________ _ __
Catch...................................................................... ...............
Grade __
__ _
.
Sort and rack_________________ _______________________
Case.......................... ...................... .................. .......... ..........
Rag ___________________________ ______ ____________
Organization _ _ _ _ _
_

13.295
13.295
13.295
17.727
40.140
2.727
1.818
14.625

.136
.164
.055
.085
.467
.017
.011
.227

.616
.738
.246
.287
.697
.370
.370
.930

116.922

1.162

.596

46.154
16.457
24.000
5.236
17.455
5.236
10.473

.615
.086
.296
.044
.109
.064
.191

.800
.314
.740
.504
.375
.733
1.094

125.011

1.405

.674

562.48
562.48
562.48
187.50
750.00
1,031.28
l,4 0 a i4

.601

Establishment No. 49:
Strip _ . . . . .
_ ___
Cut _______________ _____ _________________________ __
Catch......................... ......... ........... ........... ............. ............
Sort and grade________________________________________
Case and rack __
_ _ _ _ _ _ _. _
Rag
_
_
_ _ _ _ _ _ _
Organization _ _ _ _ _ _ _
_
___
_ .. _ _

1,06a 67
66a 67
666.67
444.45
200.00
600.00
600.00
2,000.00
. 2,000.00
1, 111. 11

Total „ _

__

_____

___ _____ _

Establishment No. 51:
Cut............... ........... ..................................... ..........................
Grade................................................... ....................................
8ort__ _ __ ______ _
_ __ __ _ __ _ _
Case. _ _ _ __
__
_ _ _ ___
Rag
_
Ship............................................................................................
Organization _ _
_
_ _

Total

_




____ ____________________ .. ___

7ia67
716.67
7ia67
200.00
727.27
2,868.07
770.42

451.30
451.30
451.30
338.47
149.48
2,200.23
3,300.33
410.26

130.00
364.59
250.00
1,145.91
343.74
1,145.91
572.90

OUTSOLES, WOMENS,

133

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued.
O U TSO LES, M EN ’ S—Concluded.

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment and operation.

Establishment No. 52:
Cut________ ___________________________________ . . . ___
Crade, machine.
__ T _
____
Sort ' _
__ _________ __ ____
_
_____ __
Case_____________________________________________ ____
Bag................................................ ..........................................
Ship, etc____ _________________________________________
Organization________________________________________

Labor
cost.

Number
Hourly
of pairs
earnings. worked on
per hour.

59.791
14.871
18.551
10.732
7.972
7.200
7.200

$0,779
.085
.232
.067
.061
.058
.100

126.317

1.382

.656

4.348
9.795
9.795
29.851
2.913
9.600
.174
1.942
1.942
2.913

.036
.103
.033
.313
.014
.045
.001
.023
.021
.039

.500
.630
.200
.630
.280
.280
.483
. 701
.649
.799

73.273

.628

.514

2.700
6.171
13.500
13.500
34.884

.032
.071
.210
.055
.517

.711
.689
.933
.244
.889

2,222.22
972.29
444.44
444.44
172.00

2.000
1.000
3.096
2.381
2.700
6.750

.014
.007
.022
.020
.040
.099

.423
.420
.422
.512
.889
.876

3,000. C
O
6,0C0. C
O
1,938. C
O
2,519.95
2,222.22
888.89

T ota l

88.682

1.087

.7 3 5

A v e ra g e , all e s t a b lis h m e n t s

98.525

.868

.529

Total

___ ____ ____

__

__ ________

Establishment No. 53:
Strip_____________ - _________ ____ ____________________
Cut............................................................................................
Oatoh_
__
_ __ ___ ___ _____ _
_ _ __
Sort........... ....................................... ......................................
Case
T
Tio u p
Bag
Instruct.
Ceneral wcrk
Organization

_

r
___

_ ____ _ _
______ _
.
_

__
_
_

___
__

__

_ -T _
r

Total____ _____ ________________ - _______ _____ - ..........
Establishment No. 54:
Stock, handle____________________ ______ __________ _____
Strip_______ _______ _____ ______ _____________ _________ ___
Cut
Catch________
Sort _

_ _
___
.................. ..

'_________

....

...

________

_

C a se Spread_________ ___________________________________
Count____ ________________ _____ _ - _______ _______
_
Tie up___________________________________________
Rag

_____

______________

Ship
O r g a n iz a t io n ^ .

__ _

_.

____ ___

..

_

$0.781 .344
.756
.375
.458 L*
.479
.833

.100.35
403.47
323.43
559.08
752.64
833.33
833.33

1,379.95
612.56
612.56
201.00
2,059.73
625.00
34,482.76
3.089.60
3.089.60
2,059.73

OUTSOLES, W O M EN ’ S .
Establishment No. 48:
Strip........... - ............
Cut..........................
Catch........................
Sort and grade........
Case and rack.........
Bag............................
Organization...........

10.667
10.667
10.667
32.000
8.000
5.818
4.267

$0,111
.133
.037
.378
.056
.040
.067

$0,624
.748
.208
.709
.420
.413
.942

Total.....................

82.086

.822

.601

8.372
8.372
8.372
30.000
8.250
2.092
7.788

.085
.101
.031
.343
.044
.014
.111

.609
.724
.222
.686
.320
.402
.855

73.246

.729

Establishment No. 49:
Strip........................
Cut..........................
Catch......................
Sort and grade___
Case and rack........
Bag..........................
Organization..........
Total,




»

.597
” J
1

562.43
562.48
562.48
187.50
750.00
1,031.28
1,406.14

716.67
716.67
716.67
200.00
727.27
2,868.07
770.42
"

134

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED.

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR IQS
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1323, B Y ESTABLISHMENT AMD OPERATION—Oentaaaed.
OUT&OLES, W OM EN’S -C oaoh ided .

Establishment and operation.

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment No. 53:
Strip..
ddt___
Catch__
Sort..
Case....... ............. ..
Tie up----------------Bag--------------------Instruct------- -------General work..........
Organization..,

Sort, grade, and rack..

Case.............................. .

Spread and tie up sizes..
Organization................ .

.423
.421
.423
.511
.889
.876

3,333.33
9,146.35
2^661.94
3,599.29
2,222.22
888.89

.916

.757

$0,133
.124
.037
.461
.102
.020
.007.

$0,760
.800
.240
.760
.280
.320
.318;

571.49
646.07
646.07
165.00
274.99
1,633.10
4,897.96

.013
.012
.032
.104

.010

.468
.432
.360
.360
.576
.935

3,597.12
3,597.12
3,597.12
3,597.12
1,798.57
899.42

1.065.

.587.

*035

,700,
.800
.930
.260

3.000
3.000
10.000

la 000

Sort________ ____

T o t a l . . ™ ............ ..

.013
.005
.016
.014
.040
.099

108.834.

Total.

2,222.22
972.29
722.20
722.20
192.00

1.668
1.668
1.668
1.668
3.386
6.671

Establishment No. 56:
Receive stock________
Strip________________
Cut............................. ..
Catch_______________
Grade________ _____

.711
.689
.933
. 244
.889

10.499
9.287
9.287
36.364
21.819
3.674
1.225

Bag___________ _
S o r tButts.... .............
Off-all_______
End pieces____
General work.......... .
Ship.........................
Organization........... .

.032
.071
.129
.034
.463

72 564

Total..........

.512 ....................

1.800
.656
2.254
1.667
2.700
6.750

Establishment No. 55:
Strip......................
Cut........................
Catch_____ ____
Sort and grade.......
Pack and bunch...

.612

2.700
6.171
9.308 ‘
8.308
*31.250

Bag___________
Ship.
Organization..

$0,036

71.724

Total................................. ...........

Establishment No. 57:
StripCut_________________
Cateh............................

Number
Hourly
of pairs
earnings. worked on
per hour.

4.348
9.795
9.795
28.302
2.913
9,600
.174
1.942
1.942
2.913

Establishment No. 54:
Handle stock_ _
_
Strip............ ........
Cut___ ___ ____
Cateh_ . . . . ___
_
Sort.__________
Cases—

Weigh_______________
Case...............................
Bag_________________
Others, sort pieces___
Floormen......................
Foremen____ _______
_

Labor
cost.

.

20.000
20.000
3.000.
2.000
3.000
10.000
10.000
20.000 .
114.000
7.773
8.682
8.682
31.885.
2 696
1.667
3.947
.990

.m

.033
.297
.014
.045
.001
.023
.021
.039

.040

.155
.044
.222
.296,
.033
.022
. 033 .
.103
.092
.326
1.401

$0,500
.630:
.200
.630
.280
.280
.483
.701
.649
.799

.636

.888.

,330

.660
,66 0 .
.618
.552
,978.

2,000 00
2,600.00
.600.00
-660.00
800.00
300.00
2,000.00
3,000.00
2,000.00
600.00
800.00
300.00

.737 —

.069!
.121.
.030
.412,
.018
.011
.027
.013

.533
,836 :
.207
.775.
.401
.396
.410
.788*

Total...................................

66.322

.701

.634

Average, all establishments.

84.111

.892

.637




1,379.95
642.56
632.56
212.00
^059.73
625.00
34,482.76
3,089.60
.3,089.60
2,059.73

771.94
696.10
691.10
188.18
2,225.44
3,599.93
1,519.98
6,061.22

135

INSOLES, LEATHER.

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued.
IN SO L E S, L E A T H E R .

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment and .operation.

Establishment No. 53:
Out
______________ r_._
.
________
Grade and skive.
_
_
.. ._
Sort and rank
rr.
_
Case___ _______ ___________________ ___________ ______
T ie up...................... ................„„............................................
B a g ..._____ _____ _________ ______________ ______ ____
Instruct______________________________ ___ _____ ______
Organization _ _.. n _r
r
__ __

_

.......

.

T otal.

r

n

T

Establishment No. 62:
• m*
C
. rnsT n
r
. _
____________ •______ ril_.
_
______
•Skive. _
Sort _
... r
n ___ _
Inspect_________________________________ „____________
Case ... .
_
_
S h ip ____ .
_ ..............
Organization_____ r_„___ _____ _ _ ____________ _
Total _ .

_

_

r

.....

Average, all establishments




.

.

r
r

.

_

.731

.490

22.625
18.100
15.083
5.430
7.757
2.715
5.430
2.715

.292
.110
.156
.027
.847
.825
.040
.050

.774
.365
.619
.298
.364
.552
.442
1.105

.747

.561

20.000
43.000
26.000
3.500
9.600
6.400

.200
.450
.270
.030
.050
.142

.600
.628
.623
.514
.313
1331

1.142

.632

5.280
49.600
15.200
36.000
5.520
5. 242

.044
.620
.095
.408
.046
.091

.500
.750
.375
.680
.500
1.042

116.842

1.304

.670

3.840
3.013
57.692
7.975
37.242
1.667
7.680
7.680

• .028
.022
.691
.054
.420
.013
.056
.893

.438
.438
.719
.406
.677
.457
.488
.729

1.377

.652

53.-098
15.000
40.000
10.000
16.600
6.460
6.460

.425
.090
.333
.087
.070
.037
.073

.480
.360
.500
.520
.420
.346
.680

141.018

.

Establishment No. 61:
Sort stock— :._____________
^
Roll
_____
Cut
_
_____________________
Grade. _
n^
Sort and case___________________________ _________ ____
Bag . . .
.
.
Utility........................„............................................................
Organization

$0,520
.310
.550
.550
.220
.414
.600
.750

126.789

mnt.al
Establishment No. 60:
Select sole stock____ __________________________ _______
c u t............................................................................................
Skive............... ............ ..._______________________________
____ ....
___
Sort, grade, and rank.
Rag
Organization. _
.........

$0,287
.850
.177
.035
.035
.001
.097
.049

79,855

__________ r______________

33.124
9.677
19.298
3.871
9.846
.174
9.740
3.896
89.421

.

Establishment No. 59:
Sort stoek____________________________________________
Cut _____________________
_____
Sort
. ______
_______
Case
.
.
___
General work
._
. ..
__
Organization
_ _
,.
__ _

Total .. n

Number
Hourly
of pairs
earnings. worked on
per hour.

108. 500

_

T otal.

Establishment No. 58:
C ut,. . . . . .
. .
n
Grade...______________________________________ _______
Sort
_ .
_
_ _ .
.........
Rack _
- - - - Case _. T
_
___ ......
Ship__ . . . . . . _ .
_ T
_ _______
._
General work______________ ______ ____ ______________
Organization.
. ..
r rrr
... . .
.......
Total

Labor
cost.

1.115

.474

110.404

1.069

.581

181.14
820.03
810.99
1,550.00
622.02
34,482.76
616.02
1,540.04

265.19
331.49
397.80
1.104.97
773.50
2.209.95
1.104.97
2.209.95

300.00
189.54
230.77
1,714.29
025.00
937.50

1,136.36
120.97
394.74
166.67
1,086.95
L 144. G
O

1,562. 50
1,991.38
104.00
752.35
161.11.
3,600.00
781.25
781.25

113.00
400.00
150.00
600.00
C O 00
O.
928.80
928.80

136

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED.

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF PARTS PU R CH ASED FOR 100
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y E ST A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION—Continued.
CO U N T ER S, LEATHER.

Establishment No. 83:
Cut....................... ................................... ....................... .........
‘ ‘ Grade (4) _
___
• "Skive (8)
...._
_
.
__
Shaveends
_
_ . . .
Roll.wa*.’', — ._ ____
_ _____ _ ______________
_____
Mold
____
__ _
Snrt. molded
Inspect
________ ______ . _
, _ __
_ ______
_______
Pack
, .
_
Instruct. (2)
_
. . .. . . . . .
Organization (3) ..
_ .
.
Total____ _

_

_ _ _ _

_ _

Establishment No. 59:
____
. .
_______
Ciit
_
Sort, flat
_
_
_____ _ _
Skive
_
_ _
Shave ends
_ __ _
_
_
Roll, wet
, , _ r_
__ .
Roll' w ar.. \ _ T ....
.
__
M old_________
____________________
____________
Sort molded__________________________________________
General work _
_ _
_
Organization
__
_ ____
Total.

......... ,. . _

,

..._ _

______

Establishment No. 60:
Cut............................... ...........................................................
Sort and grade, flat
_ _
. ___ ____ ..
Skive
...
__
___
Shave ends__________________ - _______________________
Roll, w et....................................... ......... . ............................
Roll, wax.................................................................................
Mold....................................... .................................................
Inspect, mold, sort, and pack_________________________
Glue, spread, and pick..........................................................
Paste........ ........................................................ ......................
Organization__________________________________________
Total.

_ ..... ._ _ . . .

... _

. _.

___ ......

Establishment No. 62:
Out_
___
.
_ _____ . . . . ___
Sort, flat___ ______
Split...........................................................................................
Skiv e____
.
Shave ends................................................................................
Roll, wet : . _ _ . _ __________ __
Roll, wax. _ _ _ _ _ _
Mold.........................................................................................
Sort molded
._ .
_ __
_ .
Pack...........................................................................................
Bend.........................................................................................
,
_
Inspect_____ ,
Ship...........................................................................................
General work______ __________
Organization............................................................................
Total___

.......

Establishment No. 63:
Cut
__
Sort, flat....................................... _*___.....................................
Grade________________________________________________
Skive. _
Shave ends___________________________ ________ ______
Roll, wet................................................................. ............ ...
Roll, wax____ T____
M old____________________
______
Inspect......................................................................................
Pack „ _ _ _
General work
___
_________ ___
_
_
Ship...........................................................................................
Organization.
________ ____
T otal..

_______________ _____




Number
Hourly
of pairs
earnings. worked on
per hour.

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment and operation.

Labor
cost.

33.124
10.000
11.605
11.605
5.556
21.176
7.200
5.182
7.200
2.898
4.348

$0,287
.040
091
.068
.022
.180
.038
.052
.024
.029
.046

$0,520
.240
.470
.350
.243
.510
.320
.600
.200
.600
.633

119.894

.877

.439

25.000
15.000
8.000
8.000
8.000
8.000
24.000
24.000

.624
.460
.458
.375
.308
.308
.525
.525
.311
.866

16.000

.260
.115
.061
.050
.041
.041
.210
.210
.083
.231

152.000

1.302

.514

48.000
13.080
10.471
9.529
8.640
13.077
28.791
8.407
16.919
71.956
4.160

.480
.109
.100
.091
.036
.068
.250
.073
.097
.325
.052

.600
.500
.573
.573
.250
.312
.521
.521
.344
.271
.750

233.030

1.681

.433

53.100
20.000
8.571
7.895
8.571
•4.000
10.000
18.750
15.000
8.571
9.740
4.828
4.828
9.656
4.828

.425
.160
.051
.058
.054
.020
.057
.169
.115
.049
.055
.040
.028
.058
.052

.480
.480
.357
.441
.378
.300
.342
.541
.460
.343
.339
.497
.348
.360
.646

188.338

1.391

.443

45.000
13.500
10.800
13.500
9.000
5.400
5.400
18.000
5.400
2.160
9.000
9.000
27.000

.500
.150
.056
.145
.070
.024
.036
.193
.030
.010
.053
.117
.243

.667
.667
.311
.644
.467
\267
.400
.643
.333
.278
.353
.780
.540

173.160

1.725

.598

181.14
600.00
517.02
517.02
1,079.91
283.34
833.33
1,157.86
833.33
2,070.40
1,379.95

1 6 .0 0 0

.

240.00
400.00
750.00
750.00
750.00
750.00
250.00
250.00
375.00
375.00

125.00
458.72
573.01
629.66
694.44
458.82
208.40
713.69
354.63
83.38
1,442.31

112.99
300.00
700.03
759.97
700.03
1,500.00
600.00
320.00
400.00
700.03
6 ,160.20
1.242.75
1.242.75
621.38
1,242.75

133.33
444.45
555.56
444.45
666.67
1, 111. 11
1, 111. 11
333.33
1, 111. 11
2,777.78
666.67
666.67
222.22

HEELS (LEATHER ), M EN?S,

137

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued;
CO U N TER S, L EATH ER —Concluded.

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment and operation.

Labor
cost.

30.968
24.000
9.600
9.600
9.600
3.300

$0,416
.127
.109
.073
.120
.063

Establishment No. 64:
C u t ..,.......................................................................................
Grade, machine.......................................................................
Skive.........................................................................................
Shave ends...............................................................................
Inspect and pack in barrels..................................................
Organization............................................................................
Total......................................................................................
Average, all establishments_________________________

♦

87.068
..... .
158.915

Number
Hourly
of pairs
earnings. worked on
per hour.

$0,807
.318
.682
.454
.750.
1.136

.908

.626

1.314

193.75
250.00
625.00
625.00
625.00
,1,818.18

.496

HEELS (LEATHER), M EN ’ S, 4 /3 .

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 61:
rVnt. l i f t s
_
_____
__________________
fin rt. l i f t s
G o u g e l i f t s . ..
. ..
_.
.
B u ild a n d p ress
. ____ ________
D r y . ____ ~
.
. .
.
C om p ress
.
T n sp e n t,; .sort., e a s e , a n d c o u n t , _

2 6 .6 4 2
4 2 .8 5 7
5 .2 8 0
61. 579
1 1 .2 6 9
2 4 .2 5 6
2 1 .2 5 7
4 .9 3 8
4 .8 3 5
4 .8 9 6

$ 0 ,2 5 9
.2 5 3
.0 3 3
.3 9 0
.0 9 0
.1 9 0
.1 5 5
.0 3 6
.0 4 7
.0 6 8

$ 0 ,5 8 3
.3 5 4
.3 7 5
.3 8 0
.4 7 9
.4 7 0
.4 3 8
.4 3 7
.5 8 3
.8 3 3

2 0 7 .8 0 9

1 .5 2 1

.4 3 9

1 2 1 .4 0 4
7 1 .9 7 8
6 6 .0 0 0
2 .0 0 0
6 .0 0 0
7 .5 0 0
6 .0 0 0

1 .1 2 5
.6 6 7
.5 5 0
.0 1 5
.0 4 4
.0 6 3
.0 7 8

.5 5 6
.5 5 6
.5 0 0
.4 5 0
.4 4 0
.5 0 4
.7 8 0

2 8 0 .8 8 2

_ _........
_ _ _
_
.
.

2 .5 4 2

.5 4 3

3 5 .7 6 0
5 3 .6 4 6
4 8 .0 0 0
1 3 .5 0 0
8 .4 0 0
2 0 .2 5 0
2 7 .0 0 0
pa ck
2 0 .2 5 0

.2 9 8
.2 9 8
.4 0 0
.1 1 3
.0 7 0
.2 0 9
.2 2 5
.2 3 8

.5 0 0
.3 3 3
.5 0 0
.5 0 2
.5 0 0
.6 1 9
.5 0 0
.7 0 5

226.806

1.851

.490

82.077
6.933
82.282
6.000
9.000
19.200

1.083
.065
1.000
.046
.078
.400

.792
.563
.729
.460
.520
1.250

.
._

U t i l i t y .................................. ................................................................................
S h i p ___________________________________________________________________
O r g a n iz a t io n
________
T o t a l _______

____________________________________________________

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 65:
C u t. lift s
.
r _
_
C u t. w e d g e s _
.
U n i l d h e e l s _______ _ . . _
O onge
_ ...
_
. . . . .
P ress an d d r y ro o m .
........
C o m p r e s s a n d c o u n t , ____
__ _
_
O r g a n i z a t i o n _r
T rtta l

.

.......
r _ _
.
.......................... . _ _
.

.
... ...
....................................
. _ _ _____ _

.............. _

E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 66:
C u t g r a i n l i f t s . _____________________________________________________
G ra d e a n d s k iv e
_
. . . . .
T a c k r a n d s . ____ __
_
________
D ry
_
.
_
_
____
C om p ress
___
.
....
. . .
.............. ..........
O en eral w o rk
_ ..
______ ______________ - __________ ____________________ p a n d
Shi
O r g a n i z a t i o n . ... .
_
.........................
T ota l

_

.

Establishment No. 67:
C u t. l i f t s r . . . . . . .
C u t. w e d g e s
_
B u ild a n d p ress
G ouge
. .

.

.

.

.

.

. . .

. . . . .

.
_ _ _ _

.

T r
_

_

.

.
Compress
______ ____ ______ __________________________

O r g a n iz a t io n a n d in s p e c t io n

205.492

T o ta l
A v e r a g e , a ll e s t a b l i s h m e n t s




r

2.672

.780

230.247

2.147

.559

2 2 5 .2 1
1 4 0 .0 0
1 ,1 3 6 .3 6
9 7 .4 4
5 3 2 .4 4
2 4 7 .3 6
2 8 2 .2 6
1 ,2 1 5 .0 7
1 ,2 4 0 .9 6
1 ,2 2 5 .5 0

4 9 .4 2
8 3 .3 6
9 0 .9 1
3 .0 0 0 .
1 .0 0 0 .
8 0 0 .0 0
1 ,0 0 0 .0 0

1 6 7 .7 9
1 1 1 .8 4
1 2 6 .0 0
4 4 4 .4 5
7 1 4 .2 9
2 9 6 .3 0
2 2 2 .2 2
2 9 6 .3 0

731.02
865.43
72.92
1,000.00
666.67
312.50

00
00

TIME AND

188

IM
BQB U0ST3—

PARTS PURCHASED,

T IM E A N © L AB O R COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF P A R T S P U R C H A S E © FOR 10D
BAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y E ST A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION— C<mtAnned.
W m tM (LE A TH E R ), W O lW fP S , B /S .

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment and operation.

Labor
cost.

Number
Hourly
of pairs
-earnings. worked on
per hour.

Establishment No. 61:
• Cut l i f t s . . . . . . ____________________ ____ ___________ —Out wedges............... .........................- ...................................
, Sort lifts__ __________ _______ ____ ____ - ................... —Gouge lifts................— ..........- ............................................
Build heels and press......................................... - .................
Dry..........................................................................................Compress............................... - ................................................
Inspect, sort, count, and case........ ....................................
U tility -— . — —..................................... A ..........................
Ship..........................................................................................
Organization........ ............................................... - .................

41.657
4.140
66.912
6.280
151.580
11.269
24.255
21.257
4.937
4.835
4.896

$0,404
.034
.395
.033
.960
.090
.190
.155
.036
.047
.068

$0,583
.590
.354
.375
.280
.479
.470
.438
.438
.383
.833

Total_______________________________________________

340.91$

2.412

.424

Establishment No. 66:
Cut grain lifts.................................................... - ...................
Cut wedges..............................................................................
•Grade___ .. ._______________________ ______ —..................Build.........................................................................................
Press (jack)___________ _________ _________ ____________
Inspect........... .......... ............................ ........... .......... ............
Gouge______ __________ ______ ____ _______— -------- —
Dry............................................. .............................................
Compress and cou n t...........................................................
General .work................. ............ ..........................— _____
Pack and ship................................................. ............... .— ,
Organization............. , ............. —.......................... ——
_

157.560
8.667
67.568
106.758
6.750
6.750
18.000
6.750
8.400
.20.250
.27.000
20.250

1.313
.072
..375
.790
.056
.055
.100
.056
.070
.209
.225
.238

.500
.498
.333
.444
.498
.489
.333
.498
.500
.619
.500
.705

454.703

3.559

.467

82.077
6.933
98.742
6.000
9.000
19.200

1083
.065
1200
.046
.078
.400

.792
.563
.729
.460
.520
1250

__

221.952

2.872

.776

Establishment No. 68:
Cut grain lifts..........................................................................
-Cut wedges.................................................... ..............
Build........ ................... .......................................................
Press (jack)........................................ .......................... .... —
.Compress__ _____ _______________________ ____________
‘
.Inspect and count............................ .................. .................
Sweep____ _____________ _ __________________________
_
Organization______ . . . ______—.................................... . .

186.799
9.571
177.960
6.000
9.000
.2.308
2.400
2.400

1.731
.078
1.483
.044
.083
.019
.020
.027

.556
.489
.500
.440
.553
.494
.500
.675

396.438

3,485

.527

131.800
12.443
m .7 6 4
.10.165
.98.249
6.776
.3.388
6.250
10.165
10.165
3.388
13.553

1.296
.108
1852
.053
.580
.038
.021
.033
.056
.064
.035
.145

.590
.521
.318
.313
.354
.336
.372 =
.317
.331.
.378
.620
.642

656.106

4.281

.391

T o ta l..— , ___________________ . ______

_

__
_

Establishment No. 67:
Out lifts__ ________ ______ ____ _____________ _________
Cut wedges...................—_____ __________ _____________
Build and:press heels...................... ........... —___________
Gouge......................................................................................
Compress.................... ............... ...................... —
Organization and inspection.............................— _
_
Total

____

Total.

_______

.

,

Establishment No. 69:
Cut flexible lifts; cut grain lifts............................................
Gut wedges............... .................. ........................... .............
- .Bert grain and flexible lifts................................. .................
Serve lifts and paste.....................— _______ _________
Build.................................................................- .................
Press (jack), dry, and scrape........................... ..................
Inspect, wet_________ ________ _______________ ______
_
Compress—
______ ________ ______________________
Inspect, dry______ _________________ _________ _______
Lamp______________________________
Pack and ship--------------------------. . . . . _____ . . . ___ _____
Organization______________________
T „ ____ ____
Total_______________________




_

144.38
1,449.28
89.67
1,136.36
39.58
532.44
247.37
282.26
1,215.32
1,240.96
1,225.50

38.08
692.28
88.80
.56.20
■888.89
888.89
.333.33
•888.89
7M. 29
296.30
222.22
296.30

731.02
866.43
60.76
1,000.00
606.67
312.50

32.12
626.89
33.72
1,000.00
666.67
2,596.65
2,500.00
2,500.00

45.52
482.20
17.15
580.26
61.07
885.48
1,770.96
960.00
590.26
590.26
1,-770.96
442.71

TOP PIECES, X/EATHER,

3:39

TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN- THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued.
HEELS (LEATHER), WOMEN’S, SfS—Concluded.

Time cost
(minutes}.

Establishment and operation.

Establishment No. 70:
Hiit. flevible lifts . . . . . .
_ . .
Cut grain lifts______________________ ____ ______ ____
Skive wedges______________________________________
Grade lifts
_
_
Re.rve. lifts ftnrl paste
. _
........
Build heels
_
__ _
Press (jack)
.. . .. _
Inspect, wet.
r „r T.r
T
Gouge
. ,
Compress_________________________________________
Inspect, dry, and pack _
.
. ......... .
Organization
. . . . . .
.............

...

* 142.147
70.995
18.000
3.927
13.200
125.000
13.200
13.200
18.000
13.187
11.703
26.400

$0,905
.452
.109
.025
.080
.700
.080
.080
.109
.080
.071

.220

$0,382
.382
.363
.382
.364
.336
.364
.364
.363
.364
.364
.500

_______

Total
Average, all establishments _

Number
Labor Hourly
of pairs
cost. earnings. worked on
per hour.

468.959

2.911

.372

_ •

423.179

3.253

.461

42.21
84.51
333.33
1,527.88
454.55
48.00
454.55
454. 55
333.33
454.99
512.69
227.27

TOP PIECES, LEATHER.
Establishment No. 65:
Sort and skive pieces.
Cut..............................
Count and inspect...
Organization..............

2.444
21.993
12.708
13.500

$0,023
.228
.118
.175

$0,555
.622
.556
.778

Total........................

50.645

.544

.644

Establishment No. 69:
Sort scrap...................
Skive.and roll stock..
C u t ........................... .
Compress and count.
Lump___________ _
Inspect and ship-----Organization............. .

7.812
7.812
* 31.250
6.250
7.812
7.812
7.812

.049
.060
.288
.037
.049
.081
.109

.375
.459
.552
.354
.375
.625
.833

2,454.99
272.81
472.14
444.45

Total_____________

76.560

.673

.527

Establishment No. 71:
Sort pieces...................
Cut top lifts_____. . . .
Grade and sort...........
Skive...........................
Count and bag.........
Organization.............

30.000
7.500
4.000
3.500

60
.0 0

.056
.311
.069
.033

.012
.073

.556
.622
.555
.489
.488
.733

Total....................... .

55.000

.554

.604

Establishment No. 72:
Sort scrap leather----Skive scrap leather...
Cut............................. .
Skive lifts.................. .
Count lifts and ship..
Organization..............

8.571
2.143
16.788
2.143
1.071
7.714

.020
.174
.020
.010
.100

.079

.556
.554
.622
.554
.555
.778

Total....................... .

38.430

.403

.629

Establishment No. 73:
Skive and roll stock..
Sort stock.................. .
Cut...............................
Inspect and count.__
Organization...........

9.000
9.000
30.878
1.500
9.000

.100
.343
.012

.070

.167

.467
.667
.667
.468

11
.1 1

59.378

.692

.699

768.05
768.05
192.00
960. C
O
768.05
768.05
768.05

Total.'.




6.0 0
0

1
,000.00
20 0
0 .0

800.00
1,500.00
4,000.00
1
,000.00

700.04
2,799.82
357.40
2,799.82.
5,602.24
777.81

666.67
666.67
194.31
4,000.00
666.67

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED,

140

T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF PAR TS PU R C H ASED FOR 100
PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y E S T A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION—Concluded.
T O P PIECES, L EATH ER —Concluded.

Time cost
(minutes).

Establishment and operation.

Establishment No. 74:

Skive
Rnll
Hilt, top lifts
Count, top lifts
_
Organization _ _ . T
1
_

_

_
- _
_ _____________

Labor
cost.

Number
Hourly
of pairs
earnings. worked on
per hour.

9.000
6.857
24.000
.857
11.250

$0,083
.064
.267
.010
• .229

Total

51.964

.653

.754

Average, all establishments

55.330

.587

.636

_

$0,555
.556
.667
.665
1.222

666.67
875.02
250.00
7,001.17
533.33

B O X T O E S , LEATH ER .

Establishment No. 59:
Sort stock _ _ _ _ _
Cut
_ __ __ ___ _ __
Grade
_
__
_ _ ___
Skive
Sort and rack
_
General work _
___ _
Organization _ _

25.000
24.000
16.000
24.000
27.429
13.714

60
.0 0

$0,060.
.260
.150
.173
.205
.171
.250

$0,600
.621
.375
.649
.513
.374
1.094

136.143

1.269

.559

1.440
20.928
3.497
3.480
10.440
2.633
3.456
A 756
3.360
1.680
4.362

.218
.034
.029
.058
.032
.018
.076
.014
.007
.053

.012

.500
.625
.583
.500
.333
.729
.312
.521
.250
.250
; 729

______________________________

64.032

* .551

.516

Establishment No. 62:
Gut
_ . __„ _
_ __ _ _ _ _ _ _
Sort flat.
___
_____
_ _
Skive_______ ________________________________
Sort _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
__
_________ ____. ____
Ship
General work _
_
,_ _
Organization
.

53.100
20.625
7.500
13.750
4.541
4.541
4.541

.425
.165
.055

.026
.024
.048

.110

.480
.480
.440
.480
.344
.317
.634

108.598

,853

.471

18.000
41.379
6.750
6.750

.167
.429
.070
.038

.556
.622
.622
.333

Total.

__

,___ __

Establishment No. 60:
Sort, stock
__
Gnt
Grade__
,
__
Skive__________________________________________
Sort and count
Pack and inspect__________________ ______________
Stamp
Scour _
__
_
Pick __
_
___
Wipe. __
_
_
_______ _
Organization _
_
Total

Total. r _

_

„ _

_ _ __ ______

Establishment No. 65:
Roll and skive rough stock _ _ _ _ _ _
Gut
• Skive finished hex toes
__
Buff finished box toes
_
Sort
_ _ __

'

_

_

Count_____. . . ________________________________________

Nail cases
General work _ _
O r g a n i z a t i o n __
Total

_

_

_

Average, all establishments




___

_

_ _

__

12.000
7.500
18.000
iaooo
18.000

.124
.078
.147
.173
.233

146.379

1.458

.598

lia788

1.033

.545

.622
.622
.489
.578
.778

1
,000.00

240.00
250.00
375.00
25a 00
2ia 75
437.51

4,16a 67
28a 70
1,715.76
1,724.14
574 71
2,27A 77
1,73a 11
6 A 24
8
1,78a 71
3,571.43
1,375.52

112.99
29a 91
800.00
43a 36

1.321.29
1.321.29
1.321.29

33a 33
145.01

8 a 89
8

88a 89
500.00
800.00
333.33
333.33
333.33

APPENDIX A. TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MAKING 100 PAIRS OP
SHOES, BY THE HAND METHOD IN 1863 AND BY THE MACHINE
METHOD IN 1895.

The table following, which is reproduced from the Thirteenth
Annual Report of the United States Commissioner of Labor (pp. 540
to 550), shows the time cost and the labor cost of each operation in
producing 100 pairs of shoes, by the hand method in 1863 and by
the machine method in 1895.
84791°— 24t------ 10




141

142

TIME AND IiABOB COSTS— APPENDIX A,
U nit 7 1 . — SHOES: 100 PAIRS M E N 'S M E D IU M G R AD E, C A L F ,

[Data covering the production of 1 pair of shoes were secured, but in the presentation herewith made these
tion shown in the machine method for this unit. One person,
HAND M ETH OD .

Work done.

Machine, implement, or tool used.

Measuring feet, cutting patterns, and fitting lasts to measure.
Selecting and sorting stock............................................................
Cutting out vamps..........................................................................
Cutting out tips................ .......... ....................................................
Cutting out quarters.......................................................................
Cutting out linings.......................................................... - ..............
Cutting out facings and stays.......................................................
Skiving upper stock.........................................................................
Pasting facings to linings........................................ - .....................
Foiding top of quarters...................................................................
Making wax ends............................................................................
Making linings and sewing on facings and stays......................
Sewing back seam of quarters.......................................................
Pasting linings to quarters.......... ................. ................................
Sowing linings to quarters and turning tops..............................
Sewing stays on back seam of quarters......................................
Trimming edges of uppers.............................................................
Fastening eyelets- ..................................... .....................................
Sewing back seam of vamps..........................................................
Rubbing down seams_______ ______________________________
Pasting quarters to vamps............................................................
Sewing vamps to quarters............................... . ....................... —
Sewing tips to vamps.....................................................................
Fitting lasts to measure.................................................................
Cutting out insoles..........................................................................

Tape measure, size stick, lasts, knife, etc..
None used....................................................... .
Knife, cutting board, and pattern...............
____do............................................................... .
____do............................................................... .
do­
do.
Knife and skiving table...
Brush....................................
Folding stick.......................
Awl and knife......................
Awl, needle, thimble, etc.,
do...................................
Brush..
Awl, needle, thimble, etc___
____ do........................................
Welt awl...................................
Punch and hammer____ . . . .
Awl, clamp, and knife...........
Hammer and rubbing stick.
Brush.................. .....................
Awl, clamp, and knife...........
....... do.......................................
Last, knife, and hammer___

.....i...................-.....

Rounding and fitting insoles.......................................................
Tacking insoles to lasts.................................. ..... . ........................
Cutting and turning insole channel___________________ . ___
Cutting out counters........................................ .............................
Skiving counters.............................................................................
Cutting out welts............................................................................
Skiving and fitting welts...............................................................
Hammering counters......................................................................
Inserting counters and shank and drawing uppers over lasts
and tacking them to insoles.
Sewing welts to uppers and insoles________ . ________ ______
Pulling out tacks............................................................................
Beating up welts.............................................................................
Trimming welts________ ______ _________________ _____ ____
Filling bottoms.................................................. .............................
Cutting out outsoles.......................................................................
Tempering outsoles....................... .......*______________________
Skivmg outsoles...............................................................................
Tacking on and fitting outsoles....................................................
Molding outsoles.............................................................................
Cutting out heel and top lifts.......................................................
Tempering heel and top lifts........................................................
Cuttmg and turning outsole channels____ _________________
Sewing shanks to welts................................................................. .
Sewing outsoles to welts.................................... ...........................
Cementing and closing channels and leveling bottoms______
Fastening heel seats......................................................................
Nailing heel lifts together..............................................................
Nailing on heels...............................................................................
Driving slugs in heels________ ________ _______ ____________
Trimming edge of heels..................................................................
Cutting down breast of heels............. ..........................................
Trimming edge of soles________ ____ _________ _____________
Dividing and setting up stitches.................................................
Filing and scouring edge of heels............................................ .
Blacking, burnishing, and beading heels....................... ............
Blacking and burnishing edge of soles_______ ______________
Scraping and scouring bottoms and heel tops_______________
Staining and polishing bottoms..................... ........... .................
Striping soles and blacking heel, tops, and shanks..................
Burnishing soles, heel, tops, and shanks................................... .
Blacking, treeing, cleaning, and polishing uppers and clean­
ing edge of soles.
Pulling out lasts___________________________________________
Inserting laces......................... ..................... . ................. . . . _____
Cutting out sock linings_______ ________________________ ___
Inserting sock linings______________________________________
•
____ Total time and labor costs............................................... .




Water basin and sponge___
Knife and pattern..
Hammer and last................. ..
Knife and channel iron______
Knife
pattern_______ ___
Knife and skiving board.___
Knife and board..................... .
Knife and skiving board____
Hammer and lapstone............
Hammer, pincers, knife, etc..
Awl, knife, damp, pincers, and hammer.
Pincers.............................................................
Hammer, peaning iron, and knife.
Welt knife.................................................. .
Hammer and knife.......................................
Knife and pattern..........................................
Water basin and sponge........................... . .
Knife and skiving board..............................
Hammer, knife, and last_________ ______
Hammer and last...........................................
Knife and pattern..........................................
Water basin and sponge...............................
Dividers and knife.........................................
Round awl, hammer, strap, etc..................
Square, awl, hammer, strap, etc................
Brush, hammer, and long stick..................
Hammer and awl...........................................
.....d o ...............................................................
____do...............................................................
____do...............................................................
Hammer, shave, and knife.........................
Hammer and knife........................................
Knife, edge plane, and edge glass........ .......
Flat awl...........................................................
Rasp, file, and sandpaper............................
Brush, lamp, and burnishing iron.............
do.
Edge glass and buffer................. .
Sponge and rubbing bone.......... .
Sponge.............................................
Lamp and burnishing iron........ .
Sponge, cloth, brush, and stick..
Last hook............................................
None used...........................................
Knife, cutting board, and pattern.
Brush...................................................

HAND METHOD.

143

W E L T , LACE SHOES, SINGLE SOLES, SOFT B O X TOES.
data have been conformed to 100 pairs for ready comparison with the more modern method of producworking 10 hours per day in 1863, produced these shoes.]
HAND M ETH OD.
Per­
sons
necesMotive sary Num­
power. on
ber
one
ma­
sex.
chine.
H and..
— do__
-.d o .„ -d o _ _
. . _do__
-d o ..
„_d o_—-d o .„ _do_—-do_.
—-d o .—,do__
-d o -.d o -.
__ _do__
„ _do__
— d o ..
-d o -.d o —
„ .do—
—.do—
„ -do—
„ .do—
— d o -.
-d o —-do__
— do-_
— do__
—-do_.
_.-do__
— do— do—
—-do._
— do__
— do_.
do__

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.

—-do__
— do—
— do-_-do__
—-do__
-_-d o_.
— do__
— do__
—-do__
—-do_-.d o —
— do—
__do_ _
—-do__
— do__
— do__
---d o ._
—-do—
— do_.
_--do__
—-do—
-.d o -.
— do— d o ..
— do—
—-do_.
„ -d e .-J d O —-do._
-do__
— do—
— d o -.

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.

„ .d O -_
—-d o ..
—-do_.
— do_.

1
1
1
1

1M .
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.




Employees at work on the unit.

Occupation.

Age.

Time
worked.

Pay of labor.
Bate.

Shoemaker

_

........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................

........ do..................................................
____ do___________________________
........ do..................................................
........ do.................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do................................ ...............

........ do..................................................
____ do............................................ .
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do............................................. .
........ do................. ...............................
........ do..................................................
........ do................................................ .
........ do..................................................

___ dn

„ . . .

____

........ do..................................................
........ do— ............................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................

........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do..................................................
........ do............ .......... ..........................

Labor
cost.

Per—

36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36

A.
91
33
8
5
16
8
8
16
8
16
33
60
25
5
100
50
16
25
25
8
8
133
50
50
16
3
1
5
6
8
8
25
3
16
3
116

40.0
20.0
20.0
.0
40.0
20.0
20.0
40.0
20.0
40.0
20.0
.0
.0
.0
.0
.0
40.0
.0
.0
20.0
20.0
20.0
.0
.0
40.0
20.0
40.0
.0
40.0
20.0
20.0
.0
20.0
40.0
20.0
40.0

$2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50

Day____
— .do.........
...d o .........
...d o .........
— do.........
— do........
— do........
...d o ........
—.do........
— .do.........
- . d o ........
- ..d o ........
— .do.........
— .do........
—.d o.........
—.do.........
— do........
—.do.........
— do.........
.. .d o ........
...d o ........
...d o .........
— .do.........
— .do____
—.d o........
—.do.........
- . d o .........
- - d o .........
— do........
- - d o ........
— do.........
— do........
— do........
- - d o .........
—.do.........
— do.........

$22.9167
8. 3333
2. 0833
1. 2500
4.1667
2.0833
2.0833
4.1667
2.0833
4.1667
8.3333
12.5000
6.2500
1.2500
25.0000
12.5000
4.1667
6.2500
6.2500
2.0833
2.0833
33.3333
12.5000
12.5000
4.1667
.8333
.4167
1.2500
1.6667
2.0833
2.0833
6.2500
.8333
4.1667
.8333
29.1667

36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36
36

98
2
8
8
25
8
6
16
11
5
13
3
16
50
150
25
16
25
25
8
53
5
50
33
8
8
16
21
20
16
33
16

.0
.0
20.0
20.0
.0
20.0
40.0
40.0
40.0
.0
20.0
20.0
40.0
.0
.0 .
.0
40.0
.0
.0
20.0
20.0
.0
.0
20.0
20.0
20.0
40.0
40.0
.0
40.0
20.0
40.0

2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50

—.d o........
—.do.........
—.do.........
- - d o .........
— do.........
.. .d o .........
- - d o .........
— do.........
- - d o .........
—-do.........
— .do........
—-do.........
__ do.........
— do.........
— do.........
— do.........
...d o ........
—.do.........
— do.........
...d o ........
...d o .........
—-do.........
— do.........
—.do.........
- - d o ........
— .do........
...d o .........
.. .d o .........
— do........
—.do.........
- - d o .........
— .do........

24.5000
.5000
2.0833*
2.0833
6.2500
2.0833
1.6667
4.1667
2.9167
1.2500
3.3333
.8333
4.1667
12.5000
37.5000
6.2500
4.1667
6.2500
6.2500
2.0833
13.3333
1.2500
12.5000
8.3333
2.0833
2.0833
4.1667
5.4167
5.0000
4.1667
8.3333
4.1667

3 20.0
5
.0
5
.0
3 20.0
1,831 40.0

2.50
2.50
2.50
2.50

—.do.........
„ .d o .........
„ - d o ........
...d o .........

36
36
36
36

m.

.8333
1.2500
1.2500
.8333
458.18§4

ru

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX A.
Unit

7 1 .—SHOES: 100 PAIRS M E N ’S M E D IU M G R AD E, C A L F ,

[Data covering the production of 1,500 pairs of shoes were secured, but in the presentation herewith made
duction shown in the hand method for this unit. Three hundred and seventy-one

MACHINE METHOD.

Work done.

Selecting and sorting upper stock................................
Cutting out vamps..........................................................
Cutting out quarters.......................................................
Cutting out tips...............................................................
Cutting out linings..........................................................
Cutting out sock linings.................................................
Cutting out trimmings...................................................
Perforating toe tips.........................................................
Cutting out doublers to quarters.................................
Overseeing upper-cutting department........................
Sorting vamps..................................................................
Sorting quarters...............................................................
Throating vamps.............................................................
Tying parts in bunches.................................................
Marking vamps for tips.................................................
Selecting doublers for quarters..... ........ . .....................
Skiving vamps............................................................
Skiving tips......... . ...........................................................
Skiving doublers.........._..................................................
Skiving trimmings..........................................................
Skiving quarters..............................................................
Matching and marking parts for stitching room___
Marking linings...................... : ................. .....................
Pasting facings to lining pieces.....................................
Sewing facings to linings.-—* , ...............................
*—
Marking places for second-row stitching.....................
Folding top of quarters.................................................
Sewing second rows...................... .................................
Sewing back seam of quarters.......................................
Making linings and sewing on back stays_________
Sewing linings to quarters.............................................
Cementing linings and turning tops............................
Trimming edges of uppers.............................................
Sewing around tops........................................................
Fastening eyelets.............................................................
* Sewing stays on back seam of quarters.......................
Blacking edge of vamps............................... ; ................
Cementing doublers to vamps................ .....................
Sewing tips to vamps.....................................................
Sewing back seam of vamps........................ . ................
Rubbing down baek seams............................................
Cementing vamps to quarters and putting on stays
Sewing vamps to quarters..............................................
Lacing uppers for lasting___ : .......................................
Rubbing down top seams.......................: .....................
Barring toe linings...........................................................
Overseeing fitting and stitching department.............
Cutting leather into strips for outsoles........................
Rolling outsole strips......................................................
Cutting out outsoles.............. ........... ............................
Sorting outsoles................................................................
Tying up outsoles............................................................
Overseeing sole-leather cutting department...............
Skiving outsoles...............................................................
Tempering outsoles.........—............................................
Rounding outsoles..........................................................
Beveling edge ofoutsoles— - __ _______________ __
_
Molding outsoles...................................... ......................
Cementing outsoles......................................................
Cutting out insoles.........................................................
Sorting insoles..................... —.........................................
Tying up insoles..............................................................
Skiving insoles..................................................................
Rounding insoles__;__________________ ____________
Channeling insoles „ ......................................................
Cutting across insoles....................................................




Machine, implement, or tool used.

None used..............................................
Knives, cutting boards, and patterns.
........do........................................................
........ do........................................................
........ do.........................._............................
Mallets, dies, and blocks......................
........do........................................................
Mallets, punches, and blocks...............
Knives, cutting boards, and patterns.
None used................................................
........do........................................................
........do........................................................
Knives, cutting boards, and patterns.
None used................................................
Tip marker..............................................
None used................................................
Skiving machines...................................
........do........................................................
........ do.......................................................
— —do........................................................
........do........................................................
Pencil............................................... .
Stamps................................................ —
Brushes.....................................................
Sewing machines....................................
Markers_________ _____________ ____
Folding sticks..........................................
Sewing machines............................. .
........do— ...................................................
........do................................................... .
........do.................•.....................................
_
Brushes and turning irons............. .
Under-trimming sewing machines....
........do........................................................
Gong punches and eyelet machines—
Sewing machines....................................
Brushes....................................................
___ __do_— ............................................ .
Sewing machines......... ..........................
........do........................................................
Seam-rubbing machines............. ..........
Hammers and brushes..........................
Double-needle sewing m achines......
None used.................................... .........
Rubbing-irons.....................................
Sewing machines............................... .
None u se d ................. ............................
Stripping machine.................................
Rolling-machine.....................................
Sole-cutting machine.:..........................
Sorting table...........................................
None used...............................................
........do—
..............................................
Skiving machine________ ___________
Water tank and rack.................... ........
Sole-rounding machine.......................
Feather-edging machine........................
Molding machine..................................
Brush........................................................
Sole-cutting machines............................
Noneused................................................
___ :dO— ................•
-....................... .........
Skiving machine................................. . .
Sole-rounding machine................... ......
Channeling machines_____ _________
Knife.........................................................

MACHINE METHOD.

145

W E L T , LACE SHOES, SINGLE SOLES, SOFT B O X TOES.
these data have been conformed to 100 pairs for ready comparison with the more primitive method of prodifferent persons working 10 hours per day in 1895 produced these shoes.]

MACHINE METHOD.
Employees at work on the unit.

Per­
sons
neces­
Motive sary Num­
power. on
ber
one
and
ma­
sex.
chine.

Pay of labor.
Occupation.

Age.

Ti me
worked.

h.

— do—
...d o __
...d o —
— do__
— do__
— do__
— do__
— do__
...d o —
— do__
...d o —
...d o __
— do__
Steam.
...d o —
...d o —
...d o __
...d o __
Hand..
— do__
...d o __
Steam.
Hand.
...d o __
Steam .
...d o __
. . . d o...
. . . d o ...
Hand.
Steam.
. . . d o...
— do—
— do—
Hand.
— do—
Steam.
. . . do—
...d o __
Hand.
Steam.
Hand.
...d o __
Steam.

' 1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
i
l

Steam
— do—
...d o __
Hand.
...d o .—

i
l
l
l
l

Steam
Hand I
Steam.
— d o...
...d o __
Hand.
SteamHand
. . . do—
Steam.
...d o __
_ _ d 0__
Hand.

i
l
l
l
l
l
l
—
l
i
l

1 M.
5 M.
7 M.
2 M.
2 M.
3 M.
3 M.
2 M.
2 M.
1 M.
2 M.
1 M.
2 M.
2 M.
1 M.
1 M.
2 M.
2 M.
1 M.
2 M.
2 M.
1 M.
3 F.
3 F.
3 F.
3 F.
3 F.
3 F.
2 F.
6 F.
3 F.
6 F.
6 F.
6 F.
4 M.
6 F.
2 M.
3 F.
3 F.
2 F.
2 M.
2 F.
12 F.
3 F.
2 M.
2 F.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1M.
1 M.
1M .
1M .
2 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1M .
2M .
1M .

TTpper-stnek selector _.
Vamp cutters....................................
Quarter cutters.................................
Tip cutters........................................
Lining cutters...................................
Sock-lining cutters...........................
Trimming cutters............................
Tip punchers and scallopers..........
Quarter-lining cutters......................
Foreman____ __________ ________
Vamp sorters
Quarter sorter...................................
Vamp tbroaters................................
Upper bunchers...............................
Tip marker........................................
Matcher.............................................
Vamp skivers....................................
Tip skivers........................................
Doubler skiver.................................
Trimming skivers............................
Quarter skivers.................................
Distributer........................................
Lining stampers...............................
Facing pasters...................................
Facing stitchers................................
Second-row markers........................
Folders...............................................
Second-row stitchers........................
Top closers........................................
Lining makers...................................
Closers-on..........................................
Cementers and turners...................
Upper edge trimmers.....................
Top stitchers............... ....................
Eyeleters............................................
Stayers...............................................
Vamp blackers............................ —
Vamp cementers...............................
Tip stitchers......................................
Vamp closers.....................................
Seam rubbers....................................
Vamp cementers...............................
Vampers............................................
T,ast. lnnp.rs
... ..
Seam rubbers...............................—
Lining barrers...................................
Foreman
_ _ _
Ootenle-pt.nek stripper . T ,
Outsole-strip roller...........................
Outsole cutter...................................
Outsole sorter....................................
Outsole buncher........................ .......
Foreman
__ __
Outsole skiver___________________
Outsole temperer..............................
Outsole rounder................................
Feather edger....................................
Outsole molder________ _____ ___
Outsole cementer..............................
Insole cutters................................. —
Tnsole sorter _ .
_
Insole buncher........................... .......
Tnsnle skiver ., r
__
Insole rounder...................................
Insole channelers______ _________
Insole slasher.....................................

* Bate $1,300.




Labor
cost.
Bate.

37
28-40
27-45
29-33
24,26
17-22
17-22
26,30
22,25
37
31,36
38
25,40
30,35
27
30
19,27
20,25
29
22,30
26,32
31
17-20
20-25
21-26
18-20
18-20
20-25
20,25
18-25
18-25
20-25
20-34
20-34
18-25
25-30
22,25
18-22
20-30
20,25
20,25
20,25
25-40
18-20
18,20
18,20
37
60
55
25
30
30
60
40
40
35
45
45
75
33,35
35
35
35
28
28
18

* Bate $1,250.

Per—

m.

(0
Year........ $0.0692
10.0
3 16.7 $0.27* H our___
.9015
4' 35.3
.22* ...d o .........
1.0324
.25 ...d o _____
.3279
1 18.7
.25 ...d o . . . .
53.6
.2233
32.0
.0667
.12* ...d o _____
.12* ...d o _____
.1792
1 26.0
.25 ...d o .........
.3279
1 18.7
.12* ...d o .........
1 18.7
.1640
Year........
30.0
0)
.2076
49.2
.30
Hour____
.2460
.25 ...d o .........
39.3
.1638
1 18.7
.25 — do.........
.3279
.3935
.30 — do_____
1 18.7
.22* — do.........
20.0
.0750
.22* — do.........
20.0
.0750
49.2
.20 ...d o .........
.1640
49.2
.17* ...d o .........
.1435
39.3
.17* — do.........
. 1146
49.2
.22* ...d o .........
.1845
49.2
.25 ...d o .........
.2050
39.3
.1638
.25 ...d o .........
1 36.7
.15 ...d o .........
.2418
1 36.7
.15 — do.........
.2418
1 56.0
.12* — do.........
.2417
.12* — do.........
58.0
.1208
.2015
.12* ...d o .........
1 36.7
.2418
.15 ...d o .........
1 36.7
.4
1
.15 ...d o .........
.1510
3 52.0
.15 ...d o .........
.5800
1 56.0
.3093
.16 ...d o .........
.5800
.15 . . . do___ _
3 52.0
17.4
.0464
.16 — do.........
.5723
3 34.6
.16 — do_____
.4588
.17* ...d o .........
2 37.3
.6573
.17 ...d o ....... ^
3 52.0
49.2
.15 __.do.........
.1230
.2015
1 36.7
.12* ...d o .........
.2579
1 36.7
.16 ...d o _____
.25 ...d o .........
.2563
1 1.5
.1538
1 1.5
.15 ...d o .........
.4
.1258
.12* ...d o .........
1
1.9333
.25 — do.........
7 44.0
1 56.0
.1933
.10 ...d o _____
.1475
59.0
.15 ...d o _____
.1281
1 1.5
.12* ...d o .........
Year____
.2662
40.0
(2
)
Hour
.0787
23.6
.20
15.9
.0530
.20 ...d o _____
.25 — do------ .1638
39.3
.1092
26.2
.25 __ do___ __
.0492
11.8
.25 — do.........
(3)
Year........
.3195
40.0
Hour____
.0579
13*9
.25
.25 ...d o _____
.0246
5:9
.1229
29.5
.25 ...d o _____
. 22* — do_____
.0885
23.6
.0521
13.9
. 22* ...d o _____
.0819
.12* — do_____
39.3
.1640
49.2
.20 ...d o ........
.0821
19.7
.25 ...d o _____
.0821
19.7
.25 — do_____
.0492
11.8
.25 ...d o ____ .25 — do;.___
.1171
28.1
1 18.7
.22* . . do
.2951
.0868
.15 — do_____
34.7
1 Bate $1,500.

146

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX A.
U n it 71^-SHOES: 100 PAIRS M E N ’S M E D IU M G R AD E, C A L F ,

M A C H IN E M K t JUOD—Costiouod.

Work done.

Machine, implement, or tool used.

Tying and bunching insoles----------------Tempering insoles......................................
Turning up insole channels____________
Tempering heel stock................................
Skiving heel stock-------------------------------Rolling heel stock.....................................
Cutting out heel lifts........................ ........
Pasting and nailing heel lifts together..
Cutting out rands......................................
Curling and shaping rands......................
Tacking rands to heel...............................
Cutting off rand ends................................
Compressing and molding heels.............
Cutting leather into strips for heel tops.
Tempering top lift stock..........................
Skiving top-lift stock_________ ________
Rolling top-lift stock.................................
Cutting out top lifts.................................
Sorting top lifts..........................................
Sorting and arranging counter stock___
Cutting out counters-----------. . . . ----------

None used................................
Sponge and water basin........
Channel-turning machine...
Water tank..............................
Skiving machine____ ______
Rolling machine......................
Mallet, die, and block...........
Hammers, Inrushes, and dies.
Snlitting mftehinA__________
Rand-curling machine..........
Rand-fastening machine____
Lever and knife-.....................
Heel-compressing machine..
Stripping machine..................
Water tank____ ___________
Skiving machine_____ _____
Rolling machine.....................
Cutting machine-___ ______
None used____ ____________
........d o .................... ..................
Counter-cutting machines...

Skiving counters to thickness________________ . . . . . . ___ ____
Skiving bottom edge of counters___________________. . . . . . . . .
Skiving bottom ana top of counters_______________ . . . . . . . . .
Skiving top edge of counters......................... ....... ........... . . . . . . .
Skiving ends of counters______________ _______________ _____
Skiving ridges (left by machines) off counters..-------- ---------Scouring counters..____ _______________________ . . . ________
Rolling counters....... ........... ................................... . . . . . . . --------Molding counters....______ . . . . __________ . . . . . . . . . . —

Skiving machines.
....... do------------------

Overseeing countej>mhlding department.
Sorting counters___________ ______ . . . . . .

None used.
........do__ _

------ do..................................
Spokeshaves and clamps.
Buffing machines_______
Rolling machines_______
Molding machines........ ..

Overseeing counter-sorting department____ . . . . . ........... ........
Firing boiler.______________________________________________
Inserting counters, shank pieces, and insoles and pulling
uppers over lasts.
Drawing uppers over lasts and tacking to insoles.
Stringing to e s...________________________________
Pulling out tacks....
Cutting leather into strips for welts.
strips..___ ________
Scarfing ends of welt strips.
Cutting strips to uniform width for welting.
Skiving welt strips to uniform thickness______ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cutting welting into uniform lengths__________ . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Winding welting on reels______ _______ _________ . . . . . . . ___
Furnishing power for making welting------------------------- . . . . . .
Firing boiler................................................................................. .
Grooving and beveling w e lts.................. .......... .— . . . . . . . . . .
Sewing writs to uppers and insoles-------- ---------------- . . . . . . . . .
Trimming writs.-------------------- ----------- . . . . ----- . . . — . . . . . . . .
Beating up writs..
Fillingbottoms.. .
Laying outsoles__________________________
Pitting and gauging outsoles...:---------------------- . . . . . .
Cutting channels in outsoles___ ;______ _________. . . . .
Turning outsole channels______ . . . . __________ . . . . . . .
Sewing outsoles to writs............................. ......................
Fastening heel seats.........................................................
Handing out heel seats and rubbing down stitches....




Engine____ ____________ _____________ ____
Shovel, poker, etc.............................._............
Lasting jacks, pincers, etc------------------------Lasting machines, pincers, etc......................
None used.......................................—_______
Tack pullers----------------------- --------------------Knife and gauge...............................................
Scarfing machine.____ ______. . . . . . . . . . . ____
Welt-cutting machine.......... ..........................
Brushes and mallets........................ ..............
Skiving machine............. .............................
Tape measure and knife.................................
Reel.................. ................................................
Engine_____ . . . . . . ________ ________. . . . . .
_
Shovel, poker, etc........ ..................... ..............
Welt-grooving machines.................................
Writ-sewing machines......... ................. .........
Writ trimmer___ . . . .......................... ............
Welt-beating machines...................................
Knives.............................................................
Sole-laying machines— ..................................
Knives and gauges— ...................................
Channeling machine......................................
Channel twiners....... .......................................
Sole-sewing machines.................................—
Wire grip-fastening machines........................
Randing-out knives and rubsticks-------------

MACHINE METHOD.

147

W E L T , L A C E SHOES, SINGLE SOLES, SOFT B O X TOES—Continued.
M AC H IN E M E TH O D —Continued.4

Per­
sons
neces­
Motive sary Num­
power. on
ber
one
and
ma­
sex.
chine.

Employees at work on the unit.
Pay of labor.
Occupation.

Age.

Time
worked.

h.

Hand.
...J o __
Steam.
Hand.
Steam.
...d o ...
Hand.
...d o __
Steam.
— do__
d o...
F oot..
Steam.
...d o ...
Hand.
Steam.
— do__
...d o ...
Hand.
...d o ...
Steam.

...d o ...
__ do__
. . . do—
...d o ...
...d o __
Hand.
Steam.
. . . d o...
...d o __

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
i

l
i
i

l
l
l
l
l
l

Hand.

Steam.
Hand.
— do__

i
l
l

(<)
Hand.
. . . d o...
...d o __
Steam.
...d o ...
Hand.
Steam.
Hand.
—.do__
Steam.
Hand.
Steam.
__ do__
Hand.
Steam.
Hand.
Steam.
Hand.
__ do__
...d o __
Steam.
— d o...
Hand.

l
l
i
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l
l

1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
4 F.
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
1M .
2 M.
2 M.
2 M.
1M .
2 M.
1M .
2 F.
1 M.
5 M.
1M .
2 M.
8 M.
2M.
2 M.
2 M.
3 M.
1M .
1 M.
1M .
1M .
IF .
IF .
1M .
1 M.
1 M.
8 M.
8
3
4
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
10
6
6
6
3
6
6
6
8
2
4

M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.
M.

4Steam and hand.




Labor
cost.
Rate.

Tnsolfi himehfir
. .
___
38
Insole temperer.... ............................
38
Channel turner.................................
18
Heel-stock temperer........................
60
Heel-stock skiver..............................
60
Heel-stock roller...............................
60
Heel-lift cutter.............. ..................
28
Heel builders..................................... 30-40
Rand entter_
_ _
. ___
26
Rand curler.......................................
26
Rand fastener
22
17
Rand trimmer...................................
Heel compressor...............................
60
25
Top-lift stock stripper.....................
25
Top-lift stock temperer__________
25
Top-lift stock skiver_____________
25
Top-lift stock roller______________
25
Top-lift cutter...................................
Top-lift, sorter.
____
28
Counter-stock sorter.......... ...........
35
Counter cutters................................. 23,40
23,40
23,40
do .
...
" " I d o — ” ____ — — — — — —
40
23,40
23
Counter skivers..________________ 24,35
____ do___________________ ___ __
33
28-30
36
........ do.................................................. 22,24
........ do................................................. 25-40
Counter buffers . . .
19,21
Counter rollers _ _ _
22
Counter molders_____ ___________ 26,40
d o ______________ _________ 26,40
........ do..................................................
26
Foreman.
.
... _
30
Counter sorter _ _ ___________
45
23
Counter sorter’s helper__________
25
17
Foreman .. ....... .
_
45
Engineer............................................
33
Fireman............. ............... ...............
45
Pullers-over.... .................................. 33-40
Lasters............. .................................
Toe stringers .. _ _
Tack pullers......................................
Welt stripper____ _______________
Welt scarfer........ .............................
Welt cutter........................................
Welt cementers................................
Welt skiver.......................................
Welt measurer.................................
Welt reeler........................................
Engineer________________________
Fireman.............................................
Welt groovers
........
Welt stitchers
.
Welt trimmers..................................
Welt beaters................ ....................
Bottom fillers...................................
Outsole layers...................................
Outsole gaugers................................
OpfsolA ehannelers
_ .,
Channel turners...............................
Outsole stitchers...............................
Heel-seat fasteners...........................
Heel-seat randers..............................

33-40
17-20
16-18
26
30
35
26
32
30
26
33
45
28,35
30-40
25-40
25-40
25-40
42-46
38-42
38-42
16-18
35-40
20,22
35-41

1
2

1

P er-

m.

3.9
19.7
19.7
7.9
13.9
13.9
38.3
8.9
3.0
5.9
32.8
19.7
27.6
3.9
2.0
2.0
2.0
7.9
7.9
9.1
18.3
18.3
18.3
9.1
18.3
9.1
17.5
9.1
45.7
9.1
18.3
13.2
13.7
18.3
18.3
27.4
9.1
9.3
9.1
9.1
8.8
5.9
9.1
1.9
1.9
5.17

$0.15
.12*
.12*
.17*
.17*
.17*
.22*
.50
2.50
2.50
1.75
1.25
1.25
2.00
1.75
1.75
1.75
2.25
2.50
2.00
2.75
2.25
2.00
1.83*
1.75
1.50
5.00
2.25
2.00
1.75
1.50
2.25
1.00
1.00
10.00
1.25
1.00
2.75
2.50
2.00
1.00
.75
3.00
2.75
1.50

4
} .07
4 5.17 J
1 59.3
1.50
1.25
2 37.3
11.5
.25
9.5
.15
4.3
.25
13.8
.15
1.9
.25
1.9
.25
6.3
.15
.1
2.50
.1
1.50
11.8
.20
3.50
6 15.8
1 58.0 l _30
1 58.0
.24
3 56.0
.20
1 58.0
3 43.5
.30
3.00
3 56.0
1.75
3 56.0
3.50
5 14.7
1.50
1 18.7
2.50
2 37.3

Hour
$0.0098
— do.........
.0410
— do.........
.0410
— do.........
.0230
— do.........
.0405
— do_____
.0405
__ do.........
.3686
100 pairs.
.5000
Day
.0125
. . .do.........
.0246
...d o _____
.0957
— do_____
.0410
...d o .........
.0575
...d o _____
.0130
.0058
— do_____
...d o .........
.0056
— do_____
.0058
— do.........
.0296
...d o _____
.0329
...d o _____
.0303
— do_____
.0839
— do_____
.0686
— do_____
.0610
...d o _____
.0278
— do_____
.0534
— do.........
.0228
W e e k ....
.0243
Day____
.0341
— do_____
.1523
— do_____
.0265
. . -do_____
.0458
— do_____
.2745
.0223
...d o .........
...d o .........
.0305
W eek.0508
Day
.0571
.0152
...d o _____
— do_____
.0426
.0379
— do_____
— do_____
.0303
. . -do_____
.0147
— do_____
.0074
___do_____
.0455
.0087
...d o _____
.0048
...d o _____
Pair_____

7.0006

.2983
D ay.........
.3277
...d o .........
Hour.—
.0479
.0238
...d o .........
.0179
...d o .........
.0345
...d o .........
.0079
...d o .........
.0079
— do_____
.0158
— do.........
.0004
D ay.........
.0003
...d o .........
.0393
Hour.......
Day_____ 2.1922
Q rv irQ f .6250
A Q
£r± y<Ulo«. \ .6250
1.0000
...d o .........
.8333
...d o .........
1,2500
...d o .........
Day_____ 1 1800
.6883
...d o .........
...d o ......... * 1.8358
.1968
— do.........
.6554
__ do_____

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX A,

148

U nit 7 1 .-S H O E S : 100 PAIRS M E N 'S M E D IU M G R A D E . CALF,
M A C H IN E M E T H O D —Concluded.

Work done.

Machine, implement, or tool used.

Cementing and closing channels.
Leveling bottoms..........................
Pulling out lasts!...........................
Nailing on heels.
Driving slugs in heels.......................................................... ..........
Relasting shoes.................................................................................
Trimming edge of heels...................................................................
Cutting down breast of heels and pounding up heel seats—
Trimming edge of soles...................................................................
Making sole and heel joints....................................................... .
Dividing and setting up stitches..................................................
Blacking and burnishing edge of soles.........................................
Scouring breast of heels, ...............................................................
Scouring edge of heels...................................................... . ............
Blacking edge of heels........... ................................: .......................
Burnishing edge of heels, ..............................................................
Beading heel seats, ................................................. .......................
Scouring heel tops. .........................................................................
Blacking heel tops, .........................................................................
Polishing heel tops............................................................ ..............
Scraping blacking off nail heads........................ ..........................
Scouring forepart of bottoms......................................................—
Scouring shanks...............................................................................
Staining and brushing forepart of bottoms, ..............................
Gummmg and polishing forepart of bottoms, ..........................
Marking and blacking shanks_________________ __ __ ___
Striping and burnishing forepart of bottoms'.............................
Burnishing shanks— ....................................... .............................
Polishing forepart of bottoms........................................................
Polishing shanks_____________ __________________ _____
Waxing and brushing shanks. ................................... .................
Stampmg firm name on bottoms................................... .............
Fastening lacing studs................................ ...................................
Cleaning edge of soles....................................... ........... .................
Greasing, rubbing and treeing uppers.........................................
Inserting sock linings, .......................... .................... ........... .......
Dressing and polishing uppers, ...................................................
Cleaning shoes and inserting laces__ . . . . ................. .................
Brushing heels and edge of soles...................................................
Tying shoes in pairs, ...................................................... ...........
Overseeing finishing department_____ ________________ ____
Overseeing bottoming department. ...........................................
Packing shoes and marking boxes................................................
Keeping machinery in order. .......................................................
Furnishing power............................................................................
Firing boiler........................................................................... *____

Cementing and pounding machines.
Leveling machines, hammer, etc___
Last hooks and spindles......................
Heel-nailing machines.
Wire grip-slugging machines............ ...........
Lasts and spindles...........................................
Heel-trimming machines_________________
Heel-breasting machines and hammers___
Edge-trimming machines and rand knives.
Knives and hammers......................................
Flat awls............................................................
Edge-setting machines and brushes_______
Heel-scouring machines..................................
........d o , ..............................................................
Brushes..............................................................
Heel-burnishing machines..............................
Heel-beading machines...................................
Bottom-buffing machines, ............................
Brush,...............................................................
Brush wheel., ..................................................
Knife.................................................................
Bottom-buffing machines, ............................
Shank-buffing machines.................................
Brushes and brush wheels.............. ...............
___ do.................................................................
Knives and brushes.........................................
Stripers, burnishing irons, and lamps_____
Buraishing-irons, lamps, and knives___
Felt wheels. ..................................................
........do.................................................................
Brush wheels.....................................................
Stamp, ............................................................ .
Lace-stud machine............. ............................
Cloths, lamps, and irons................................
Shoe trees, brushes, etc___________ ________
Brushes..............................................................
Sponges and cloths..........................................
Cloths..................................... ..........................
Brush wheels and cloths..... ..........................
None used..........................................................
........do......................... .......................................
........ do..................... ...................................... ..
Hammers, stencils, brushes, etc...................
Machinists’ tools..............................................
Engine........................... ............................... ..
Shovel, poker, etc.............................................

Watching establishment.

None used.

Total time and labor costs.




149

MACHINE METHOD,
W E L T , LACE SHOES, SINGLE SOLES. SOFT B O X TOES—Concluded.
M A C H IN E M E T H O D —Concluded.

Employees at work on the unit.

Perneces­
Motive sary Num­
power. on
ber
one
and
ma­
sex.
chine.

Pay of labor.
Occupation.

Age.

Time
worked.

h.

Steam.
(4)

Hand.
...d o ...
Hand.
Steam.
do .
...d o ...
Hand.
...d o ...
(<)
Steam.
...d o __
Hand.
Steam.
— do__
— do__
Hand.
Steam.
Hand.
Steam.
„„-do__
(0
(*)
Hand.
— do._
_—do_.
Steam.
...d o ._
...d o _ .
Hand.
Steam.
Hand.
...d o __
...d o __
_..do__
...d o ._
(*)

2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

Hand.
Hand.
...d o ..
Steam.
Hand.

— .1
___ 1
....1
____1

2 M.
3 M.
3 M.
/3 M .
\3 M .
3 M.
2 M.
3 M.
3 M.
4 M.
3 M.
6 M.
5 M.
2 M.
2 M.
2 M.
2 M.
2 M.
2 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
4 M.
2 M.
3 M.
2 M.
3 M.
3 M.
3 M.
2 M.
2 M.
2 M.
1 M.
2F.
4 M.
20 M .
3 F.
5 F.
4 F.
2 M.
3 F.
1 M.
1 M.
5 M.
1 M.
1 M.
1 M.
J1 M .
\l M .

Cementers and channel layers___
Bottom levelers................................
Last pullers.......................................
Heel nailers.......................................
Heel nailers’ helpers........................
Heel sluggers.....................................
Belasters............................................
Heel trimmers..................................
T ftftl hrp.flstp.rs
T
Edge trimmers.................................
Joint makers
___ .
Stitch dividers..................................
Edge setters......................................
H pp1 scourers
.
_ r . _ ____
Heel blackers.....................................
Heel finishers-..................................
Heel headers......................................
Heel-top buffers................................
Heel-top blacker...............................
Heel-top polisher........ ....................
Heel-top scraper...............................
Forepart buffers................................
Shank buffers....... ............................
Bottom stainers................................
Bottom polishers..............................
Shank markers and blackers..........
Forepart stripers ..............................
Shank burnishers.............................
Forepart polishers............................
Shank polishers................................
Shank fakers.................................. .
Monogrammer. ...............................
Stud fasteners...................................
Edge cleaners....................................
Treers___________________________
Sock liners.........................................
Dressers..............................................
Cleaners and lacers..........................
Edge polishers...................................
Strap stringers_________ _________
Foreman_____ _______ __________
Packers-................................................
M a ch in is t

_

_

-

Engineer.................................................
Fireman..................................................
Watchman .............................................
rin

19,40
30-40
20-21
25-27
16-19
21-25
30,40
25-30
20-25
35-40
45-50
20-25
35-40
20,25
38,55
17,20
32,38
20,30
42
17
25
17
32-45
21,24
38-41
25,27
38-42
25-29
33-55
42,50
32,40
42,50
38
20,25
32-38
30-40
25-35
20-26
22-30
17,20
20-25
35
30
26-29
45
30
40
50
50

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
3
3
1
1
1
1
1
1

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
13
1
3
2
1

3

236

4
Steam and hand.




Labor
cost.
Bate.

Per—

m.

18.7
58.0
58.0
58.0
58.0
58.0
18.7
58.0
58.0
37.3
58.0
56.0
16.7
1.5
18.7
10.2
1.5
1.5
1.5
39.3
39.3
39.3
24.6
49.2
38.3
5.6
22.0
22.0
38.3
54.6
49.2
1.5
39.3
18.7
27.5
6.7
36.7
13.3
25.0
58.7
36.7
40.0
40.0
20.0
40.0
40.0
40.0
40.0
40.0
6.3

1.50
3.00
1.50
3.25
1.00
2.50
2.00
.20
2.25'
.50
2.50
1.75
.72
1.50
2.50
1.25
2.75
2.00
2.50
1.00
2.25
.75
2.50
2.25
2.50
2.00
1.25
1.50
2.50
2.25
2.00
2.00
1.50
1.40
2.00
2.50
1.40
1.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
(5
)
(V
.15
2.50
3.00
1.75
1.75
1.50

D a y ____ $0.1968
— do.........
.5900
.2950
...d o .........
...d o .........
.6392
.1967
— do.........
.4917
— do.........
— do_____
.2623
24 pairs—
.8333
Day
.4425
24 pairs. _ 2.0833
Day__
.4917
— do.........
.6883
24 pairs. .
3.0000
D ay_____
.1538
— do.........
.3279
— do.........
.1463
— do.........
.2819
— do.........
.2050
— do.........
.2563
...d o .........
.0655
— do.........
.1474
.0491
— do.........
...d o .........
.6025
...d o _____
.1845
— do.........
.4096
...d o .........
.2187
...d o _____
.1708
...d o _____
.2050
— do.........
.4096
.2048
— do.........
...d o .........
.1640
— do.........
.2050
...d o _____
.0983
...d o .........
.1836
— do.........
.4917
...d o _____ 3.2779
...d o .........
.2256
...d o ------.4833
.3021
— do.........
.0978
...d o _____
___do_____
.1612
Year........
.2556
_ do_____
_
.3195
Hour____
.5000
Day _____
.1667
...d o _____
.2000
...d o ..........
.1167
...d o ..........
.1167
— do..........
.1000
59.5461

i50

TIME a n d l a b o r c o sts — a p p e n d ix b .

APPENDIX 'B.— TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MAKING 100 PAIRS OP
SHOES IN 1016.1

In this appendix is presented a table showing the time cost and
labor cost, b y occupations, in the manufacture of 100 pairs of welt
shoes, the rate of wages or earnings per hour of the employee, and
the number of pairs of shoes worked on per hour, by the employee,
in a representative shoe factory.
The table presents most forcibly the minute specialization of work
in a modern shoe factory, the many hands through which a shoe
passes in the course of manufacture, the great number of repetitions
of a single operation in an hour, and the comparatively short time
consumed, and the small labor cost in the making of a pair of shoes.
The total time cost, as shown by the total at tne end of the table,
for making 100 pairs of shoes is, in this establishment, 8,560.10
minutes, or 142.7 hours, and the total labor cost $36.7761. Reduced
to a single pair of shoes, the time cost is 1 hour and 26 minutes, and
the labor cost $0,368. One man in one hour makes seven-tenths
of a pair of shoes.
Under each department of the factory the occupations are given
in the order of the operation. At the end of each department are
shown the cost of “ daywork” and of “ organization.” The “ day­
work” includes operations that can not be carried under a piecerate system nor easily separated into specific individual operations.
“ Organization” includes the work of superintendents, assistants,
foremen, laborers, clerks, firemen, and others whose work is more or
less general, the cost of which has been apportioned to the several
departments according to the amount of time determined as devoted
to each.
The column “ Time cost” shows the time in minutes required for
one person to perform the work of the occupation on 100 pairs of
shoes. The “ labor cost” is the amount paid for the work done by
the operator in the time given in the time-cost column.
The hourly wages is the amount earned per hour by the employee
in the occupation named.
The number of pairs worked on per hour is the number of pairs
of shoes for which the given operation is performed in one hour.
To illustrate: The first operation in oraer of process in the upperleather department is that of “ tongue cutter.
It requires 36.65
minutes for this operator to cut the tongues for 100 pairs of welt
shoes of a given style, and for this work he is paid $0.1519. This
amount is equivalent to an hourly rate of $0.2487, and, in one hour
the operator will cut the tongues for 163.71 pairs of shoes.
1 Beproduced from Bulletin No. 232 of this bureau, pp. 165 to 169.




M A N U F A C T U R IN G SH O E S IN

1916,

151

TIM E AND LABOR COST IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF WELT SIIOES
RATE OF WAGES OR EARNINGS PER HOUR, AND NUMBER OF PAIRS WORKED
ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, BY OCCUPATIONS.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and occupation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked
on per
hour.

UPPER-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

36.65
44.00
29.38
17.10
10.19
6.65
14.62
3.21
3.21
33.01
9.77
2.42
2.04
5.65
4.58

$0.1519
. 1799
. 1200
.0720
.0417
.0242
.0534
.0117
.0117
.1200
.0266
.0067
.0833
.0333
.0167

$0.2487
.2453
.2451
.2526
.2455
.2183
.2192
.2187
.2187
.2181
.1634
.1661
.2441
.3536
.2188

2.52
1.56
151.93
119.05
8.26
36.65
9.17
21.77
3.06
1.22
3.36
6.21
2.42
6.21
1.56
1.22
1.56
7.86
2.07
6.19
2.52
3.44
199.88
242.70

.0092
.0042
.9963
.4865
.0225
.1333
.0333
.0792
.0083
.0033
.0092
.0167
.0067
.0167
.0042
.0033
.0042
.0250
.0075
.0225
.0092
.0125
.7299
1.0913

.2190
.1615
.3935
.2452
.1634
.2182
.2179
.2183
.1627
.1623
.1643
.1614
.1661
.1614
.1615
.1623
.1615
.1908
.2174
.2181
.2190
.2180
.2191
.2698

50.40
726.39
163.71
654.31
275.61
1,960.78
4,918.03
1,785.71
966.18
2,479.34
966.18
3.846.15
4,918.03
3.846.15
763.36
2,898.55
969.31
2,380.95
1,744.19
30.02
24.72

4.60
1.43
.66
.61
.83
19.65
.97
19.72
2.00
6.60
30.25
27.50
15.15
23.10
2.20
12.73
17.89
14.90
12.56
5.50
9.02
5.70
TaP^imm
-y-j-r
-r
2.34
Putters-away (tap)_________ _________ ______________
2.25
InSnlegraders and skivers ..
__
12.58
Tnsnle-split sorters
^
11.93
Insole grade painters
_r
—
T T.^
T
.63
Putters-away (insole) _
_ ^
__ _
1.84
Insole casers
_
r T ,,
_ _
_ „
6.73
Insole buffers _ _ _
,
r _ TT^
.
_
7.33
Insole gem-duck sorters and putters-away
1.57
_____ __________ .Insole gem-duck casers 4.70
. . ______ . . . . . .

.0188
.0052
.0024
.0022
.0030
.1250
.0035
.1075
.0100
.0300
.1240
.1500
.0620
.1260
.0100
.0425
.0975
.0475
.0400
.0175
.0450
.0233
.0096
.0113
.0400
.0650
.0020
•0067
•0275
•0300
.0050
.0192

.2452
.2182
.2182
.2164
.2167
.3817
.2165
.3271
.3000
.2727
.2460
.3273
.2455
.3273
.2727
.2003
.3270
.1913
.1911
.1909
.2993
.2453
.2462
.3013
.1907
.3269
.1905
.2185
.2452
.2456
.1911
•2451

1,304.35
4,195.80
9.090.91
9,836.06
7.228.92
305.34
6,185.57
304.26
3,000.00
909.09
198.35
218.18
396.04
259.74
% 727.27
471.33
335.38
402.68
477.71
1,090.91
665.19
1,052.63
2,564.10
2,666.67
476.95
502.93
9,523.81
3,260.87
891.53
818.55
3,821.66
1,276.60

Tongue cutters............................................................. —
Eyelet-facing cntters, top section
_ __
.
Eyelet-lacing cutters^ toe section____________________
Backstay cutters___ ________________________________
Remnant sorters___________________________________
Eyelet-facing skivers, top section _
Eyelet-facing skivers’ toe section
Tongue skivers , , _____
Backstay skivers _
Eyelet-facing camentars ,
Eyelet-facing sorters
_
Tongue sorters. __ ... ___
__ _
Cloth folders and rollers____________________________
Cloth-lining end doufaler cutters
. .. .
_
.... ... .
Lining casers
n.. r__ _
Doubter casers, ,,
......
. .
Packers . . . ... ... . . . ___ _. _
_____
Vamp and tip cotters
._
.......
Top cutters *
. _ „ _
__
. . .
Die distributors.
_____ .
Vamp sorters and casers _
Tip sorters and casers ...... _ . . .
_ . _
.
____
Top sorters and casers ...
r. . _
Vamp painters and sizers _T
Tip painters and sizers________________________________
Top painters and sizers_______________________________

Vamp reconnters

_ __

.

.

Tip recounters________________________________________

Top reconnters.
_ . _ _
Vamp tiers-np , . . .
Tip tiers-np , r ..
Toptiars-np
..
n
_T
,n
Refinishers
.
_ _
Tongue casers. _ . . . . . . . .
Eyelet-facing casers _.
Heel-stay casers. _.
Backstay casers_
_

_ ___ ..
.

_ .. ^
_

T

m

Daywork______________________________________ _____

Organization

_

______

_ _

_

103.71
136.36
204.22
350.88
588.81
902.26
410.40
1.809.16
1.869.16
181.76
614.12
2,479.34
2,941.18
1.061.95
1,310.04
2.380.95
3,846.15
39.49

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT.

Ontsole-stock sorters, skivers, etc _
Side dippers_________ _______ ________ _______________
Pilers (near machine)_______ __________________ _____
Pilers (on machine) .. _
. _
.
Cleaners-np (around machine) . _
Ontsole cutters. . . .
Pilers (under machine) _ _ _ _ _
Insole cotters _
,
Gem-dnck cutters, insole.. _
_ _
_ _
Bnrlap cutters, insole _ .
Tap-stock sorters, skivers, etc. _ ___ _
Tap cutters
...
_ _
T
,
.
Top-lift stock sorters, skivers, etc ,
_ _ rr r
Top-lift, cutters
Box-toe cutters - - _____ _____ ...
Ontsole graders and skivers. _ . ___t,_
Ontsole sorters
r
.
__
Ontsole grade painters _
_
^
^
Tap graders and skivers , ,
..
Tap nutters
,
.. ._
. . T ..
Tap sorters
_
Tap casersT__n T _______
,___
______
_ ___




152

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX B.

TIME AND LABOR COST IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF WELT SHOES,
RATE OF WAGES OR EARNINGS PER HOUR, AND NUMBER OF PAIRS WORKED
ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, BY OCCUPATIONS—Continued.

Department and occupation.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked
on per
hour.

SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded.
Putters-away (insole buckram)..........................................
Insole buckram casers............................................................
Collectors and shippers.........................................................
Box-toe skivers........................................ .............................
Box-toe sorters........................................................................
Counter fiber-edge trimmers................................................
Counter fiber strippers..........................................................
Counter cutters......................................................................
Counter stackers (for end trim)...........................................
Counter-end trimmers...........................................................
Counter skivers.......................................................................
Counter temperers................................................................
Counter rollers.................... ...................................................
Counter molders....................................................................
Dryer-box emptiers................................................................
Counter sorters.......................................................................
Counter waterproofers...........................................................
Putters-away (outsole)........................................ ;v_............
Outsole casers.........................................................................
Outsole shippers.....................................................................
Box-toe casers..........................................................................
Box-toe tiers-up.......................................................................
Box-toe shippers.....................................................................
Putters-away (counters)........................................................
Counter casers........................ ................*..............................
Counter shippers....................................................................
Daywork..................................................................................
Organization............................................................................

.52
6.73
1.65
5.62
4.35
3.30
2.83
5.50
2.36
2.47
2.62
.28
5.06
22.68
.92
7.68
.69
4.09
9.43
.24
3.67
1.70
.47
.28
4.48
.44
86.98
143.66

$0.0018
.0275
.0075
.0230
.0138
.0120
.0105
.0200
.0075
.0090
.0088
.0020
.0138
.0825
.0025
.0250
.0025
.0167
.0428
.0011
.0150
.0054
.0019
.0010
.0183
.0018
.3133
.7656

$0.2077
.2452
.2727
.2456
.1903
.2182
.2226
.2182
.1907
.2186
.2015
.4286
.1636
.2183
.1630
.1953
.2174
..2450
.2723
.2750
.2452
.1906
.2426
.2143
.2451
.2455
.2161
.3198

11,538; 46
891.53
3,636; 36
1,067.62
1,379.31
1,818.18
2,120.14
1,090.91
2,542.37
2,429.15
2,290.08
21,428.57
1,185.77
264.55
6,521.73
781.25
8,695.65
1,466.99
636.27
25,000.00
1,634.88
3,529.41
12,765.96
21,428.57
1,339.29
13,636.36
68.98
41.77

58.65
167.17
13.44
5.66
4.72
9.03
8.80
3.44
2.75
8.66
6.73
5.70
5.70
48.73
58.99

.2400
.7600
.0550
.0180
.0150
.0288
.0400
.0125
.0075
.0275
.0275
.0233
.0233
.1840
.2924

.2455
.2728
.2455
.1908
.1907
.1914
.2727
.2180
.1636
.1905
.2452
.2453
.2453
.2266
.2974

102.30
35.89
446.43
1,060.07
1,271.19
664.45
681.82
1,744.19
2,181.82
692.84
891.53
1,052.63
1,052.63
123.13
101.71

22.91
11.45
22.91
27.42
53.35
27.59
22.91
22.91
25.28
53.35
13.09
68.72
53.05
53.51
39.28
41.09
29.21
15.27
114.58
76.42
39.28
95.99
223.58
40.74
26.19
45.83

.0625
.0416
.0833
.0625
.1250
.0666
.0625
.0625
.0625
.1250
.0416
.1875
.1875
.1458
.1250
.1250
.0938
.0416
.4166
.2083
.1250
.2917
.9166
.1668
.0833
.1250

.1637
.2180
.2182
.1368
.1406
.1448
.1637
,1637
.1483
.1406
.1907
.1637
.2121
.1635
.1909
.1825
.1927
.1635
.2182
.1635
.1909
.1823
.2460
.2457
.1908
.1636

261.89
524.02
261.89
218.82
112.46
217.47
261.89
261.89
237.34
112.46
458.37
87.31
113.10
112.13
152.75
146.02
205.41
392:93
52.37
. 78* 51
152.75
62.51
26-84
147:28
229:10
130.92

HEEL DEPARTMENT.

Heeling-stock skivers, sorters, etc................ i .....................
Heel builders.........................................................................
Rough sorters................. ........................................................
Heel gougers............................................................................
Heel skivers..........................................................................
Heel compressors....................................................................
Heel sorters............................................... 1............................
Top-lift graders..................................... .................................
Top-lift skivers.................. . ..................... .............................
Top-lift compressors...............................................................
Top-lift sorters........................................................................
Top-lift casers.................. .......................................................
Heel casers........................ ......................................................
Daywork.................................................... ...........................
Organization...........................................................................
MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT.

Markers (for tips)................................. .................................
Vamp cut-off skivers...... ............. ........ .......... ........ ............
Heel-seam skivers.................................-•
............................ .
Vamp-extension pasters...................... .................................
Vamp doublers.......................................................................
Side liners......................... ......................................................
Top skivers (corner of heel)................. ...............................
Top skivers (at bottom).......................................................
Top doublers..........................................................................
Remforced-stay pasters....................... ............................... .
Stencil liners..........................................................................
Lasting-tape stitchers___ : ...................................................
Tip stitchers........................................................................ .
Box-toe to vamp stitchers.....................................................
Vampseamers........................................................................
Vamp stayers........ .......... .................... .................................
Top seamens_____ . . . _ 1.................... . . . ’...........................
_
Top rubbers.......... ................................................................
Backstay stitchers____ ..................... ................................
Heel-stay stitchers.......... ___________ .'................................
Top-facing stitchers..........: ........................ ..........................
Hyelet-facmg stitchers...........................................................
Stitchers and trimmers............................. ...........................
Eyeletters...............................................................................
Lacers.......... ................... . . ; __________ ’..............................
Toe-lining seamers............... ................ . . . . _____________




MANUFACTURING SHOES IN 1916.

153

TIME AND LABOR. COST IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF W ELT SHOES,
RATE OF WAGES OR EARNINGS PER HOUR, AND NUMBER OF PAIRS WORKED
ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, BY OCCUPATIONS—Continued.

Department and occupation.

Time cost
of 100 pairs Labor cost
(minutes). of 100 pairs.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked
on per
hour.

MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT—continued.
Vampers........................................................................ .
Sizers-out........................................................................
Outsole shankers-out....................................................
Outsole size stampers.................................................. .
Tap cementers
.........................................................
Heel dippers (in waterproofing)................................
Tap scourers..................................................................
Outsole cementers.........................................................
Outsole counters and craters......................................
Insole putters-up (for rounders)................................
Insole rounders..............................................................
Insole channelers...........................................................
Insole-lip cutters (at toe).................... ........................
Insole dippers (in stiffener).........................................
Insole-lip turners...........................................................
Insole-lip reinforcers.....................................................
Insole scourers and size stampers..............................
Insole welt-line markers and casers...........................
Insole formers (in cloth).:...........................................
Insole-lip trimmers.......................................................
Insole-lip straighteners................................................
Insole-lip stiffeners........................................................
Insole counters and casers...........................................
Last casers-up................................................................
Insole tackers (to last).................................................
Insole trimmers (at heel).............................................
Last chalkers.................................................................
Upper maters.................................................................
Assemblers.....................................................................
Box shellackers..............................................................
Vamp wetters (for pull-over)......................................
Pullers-over (Rex machine)........................................
Side lasters (C. H . M . machine)................................
Heel and toe lasters......................................................
Toe-tack pullers............................................................
Trimmers-out................................................................
Stiffeners................ ......................................................
Case assemblers.............................................................
Checkers-out____________________________________
Tack pullers...................................................................
Welters............................... ...........................................
Side-tack pullers..........................................................
Inseam trimmers.........................................................
Welt beaters..................................................................
Insole-tack knockers.........: ..........................................
Stickers-in (shank).......................................................
Bottom fillers...............................................................
Bottom cementers..................................................... .
Sole layers......................................................................
Heel-seat nailers............................................................
Maters (for levelers).....................................................
Outsole rounders...........................................................
Heel-seat rounders........................................................
Channel openers..........................................................
Stitchers........................................................................
Channel cementers.......................................................
Channel layers.... ..........................................................
Wheel stitchers.............................................................
Upper-edge blackers.....................................................
Levelers..........................................................................
Last pullers....................................................................
Last throwers (into bins)............................................
Heel tenders..................................................................
Heelers........................................................................... .
Sluggers......................................................................... .
Heel trimmers............................ ..................................
Heel breasters............................................................... .
Heel-breast scourers................................................... .
Edge trimmers............................................................. .
Kmfers-up (machine)................................................. .
Heel scourers (first)......................................................
Edge setters.................................................................. .
Edge brushers-up........................................................ .
Stitch polishers.............................................................
Heel scourers (second).................................................




341.46
18.33
20.37
9.17
10.83
15.28
* 10.83
12.21
6.55
4.58
15.28
33.37
7.64
3.82
38.20
45.83
9.17
12.21
65.53
30.59
16.26
15.28
8.62
13.09
32.74
13.09
18.34
15.27
86.48
34.40
15.27
104.76
125.00
269.61
32.79
22.91
11.45
9.83
11.94
72.08
97.00
20.37
81.50
29.41
30.56
29.41
54.38
22.91
40.74
34.38
22.91
65.07
19.65
45.83
162.24
30.56
45.83
34.85
22.91
30.56
39.30
10.48
58.39
56.41
40.74
35.98
30.56
34.38
171.34
5138
41.22
11158
17.46
30.56
32.05

$1.5832
.0416
.0556
.0250
.0278
.0416
.0278
.0333
.0208
.0125
.0625
.1668
.0208
.0104
.1041
.1250
.0208
.0278
.1582
.0833
.0500
.0416
.0208
.0417
.1041
.0416
.0500
.0417
.3541
.0938
.0417
.6665
.6250
1.5832
.1041
.0625
.0362
.0362
.0375
.2292
.7498
.0552
.3333
.0938
.0833
.0938
.1668
.0625
.1668
.1250
.0416
.4791
.0625
.1250
.9583
.0833
.1668
.1108
.0625
.1250
.1250
.0333
.1771
.3333
.1668
.2292
.1250
.0938
1.1666
.1668
.1875
.6252
.0552
.0833
.1459

. $0.2782
.1362
.1638
.1636
.1540
.1634
.1540
.1636
.1905
.1638
.2454
.2999
.1634
.1634
.1635
.1636
.1361
.1366
.1448
.1634
.1845
.1634
.1448
.1911
.1908
.1907
.1636
.1639
.2457
.1636
.1639
.3817
.3000
.3523
.1905
.1637
.1897
.2210
.1884
.1908
.4638
.1626
.2454
.1914
.1635
.1914
.1840
.1637
.2457
.2182
.1089
.4418
.1908
.1636
.3544
.1635
.2184
.1908
.1637
.2454
.1908
.1906
.1820
.3545
.2457
.3822
.2445
.1637
.4085
.1840
.2729
.3274
.1897
•1635
.2731

17.57
327:33
294.55
654.31
554.02
392.67
554.02
491.40
916.03
1,310.04
392.67
179.80
785.34
1,570.68
157.07
130.92
654.31
491.40
91.56
196.14
369.00
392.67
696.06
458.37
18?* 26
45?i37
327.15
392.93
69.38
174.42
392.93
57.27
48.00
22.25
182.98
261.89
524.02
610.37
502.51
83.24
61.86
294.55
73.62
204.01
196.34
204.01
110.33
261.89
147.28
174.52
261.89
92.21
305.34
130.92
36.98
196.34
130.92
172.17
261.89
196.34
152.67
572.52
102.76
106.36
147.28
166.76
196.34
174.52
35.02
110.33
145;i56
52137
343.64
196.134
187.21

TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX B,

154

T IM E A N D LABOR COST IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF W E L T SHOES,
R A T E OF W AGES OR EAR N IN G S PER HOUR, A N D N U M B E R OF PAIRS W O R K E D
ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, B Y OCCUPATIONS—Concluded.

Time cost Labor cost
of 100 pairs of 100 pairs.
(minutes).

Department and occupation.

Hourly
wages.

Number
of pairs
worked
on per
hour.

MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.

Heel blackens
,n
ir
Heel burnishers _
_
Dusters and grammars
_ nn._
_ ___
Painters_____ _ _____
Gummars and polishers
Stripers . . .
TTeel-hreast painters.
....
Top-lift rollers .
_ ... ___
...
Bottom waxen?
. _
Shank nailera
Forepart stampers
..
Shank stampers . . . . . . .
.
Maters (for triers)
.
Traars (machine)
. _
_
Pnttars-in fheel pins)
_
.
Dull leather repairers ___ ..

......
_

.T
_
.
„.. . . ..... irn
.
. . . .
___
_r_

Stitch brushers_________________________

Dressers
.
Lacers
T
_
Brushers
.
Maters (for inspectors) ,
Packers _
.
Daywork
. ...
T„ _
Organization__________
Total.

_ .

_ , _r
.

___ „_____

^
_
_ T .. , T
__
__
. _

,
_
__
___
__
_______________________

...

* 142.7 hours.




O

18.34
45.83
100.73
38.20
54.38
71.34
36.66
20.95
41.92
28.64
19.65
19.65
19.65
15.27
18.90
29.29
68.75
26.19
78.57
22.91
78.57
30.56
38.20
15.27
34.85
138.88
763.47

$0.0416
.2083
.4580
.1041
.1668
.2918
.1002
.0667
.1334
.1041
.0625
.0625
.0625
.0417
.7608
.0667
.1875
.0833
.2500
.0558
.2500
.0833
.1041
.0417
.1108
.4629
A 4806

$0.1361
.2727
.2728
.1635
.1840
.2454
.1640
. 1910
.1909
.2181
.1908
.1908
.1908
.1639
.2415
.1366
.1636
.1908
.1909
.1461
.1909
.1635
.1635
.1639
.1908
.2000
.3521

18,560.10

Shank and top-lift scourers.......................... ...................

36.7761

.2574

327.15
130.92
59.57
157.07
110.33
84.10
163.67
286.40
143.13
209.50
305.34
305.34
305.34
392.93
317.46
204.85
87.27
229.10
76.37
261.89
76.37
196.34
157.07
392.93
172.17
43.20
7.86