The full text on this page is automatically extracted from the file linked above and may contain errors and inconsistencies.
U. S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR JAMES J. DAVIS, Secretary BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS ETHELBERT STEWART, Commissioner BULLETIN OF THE UNITED STATES\ BUREAU OF LABOR S T A T IS T IC S / * * * * WAGES AND HOURS OF LABOR {No. 360 SERIES TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANU FACTURING 100 PAIRS OF SHOES 1923 JULY, 1924 WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1924 ADDITIONAL COPIES O F T H IS P U B L IC A T IO N M A Y B E P R O C U R E D F R O M T H E S U P E R IN T E N D E N T O F D O C U M E N T S G O V E R N M E N T P R IN T IN G O FFICE W A S H IN G T O N , D . C. AT- 20 CENTS PER COPY CONTENTS. Time and labor costs in manufacturing 100 pairs of shoes, 1923: Introduction____________________________________________________ Cost by district, establishment, and operation ___________________ Selected operations and departments, by establishment___________ Parts purchased, establishment, and operation___________________ Appendix A.— Time and labor costs in making 100 pairs of shoes, by the hand method in 1863 and by the machine method in 1895__________ Appendix B.— Time and labor costs in making 100 pairs of shoes in 1916-................................................... h i Page. 1-4 4-124 125-131 132-140 141-149 150-154 BULLETIN OF THE U. S. BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS NO. 360 WASHINGTON JULY, 1924 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANUFACTURING 100 PAIRS OF SHOES, 1923. INTRODUCTION. This report presents time and labor costs in the production of 100 pairs of shoes of a specified style and average hourly wages or earnings of shoe workers for each of the operations in each of the departments of the modern shoe manufacturing establishment, and for the factory as a whole, and also shows for each operation the number of pairs of shoes on which such work could be completed in one hour, assuming that the employees would work at the same speed during the hour as they did during the time required for the 100 pairs of shoes. The figures in this report were computed from detailed time and labor cost reports carefully compiled during the summer of 1923 and furnished, as requested, to the Bureau of Labor Statistics by rep resentative shoe manufacturing establishments located in 9 of the important shoe-producing States, namely, Massachusetts, New York, Missouri, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, Maine, Illinois, and Virginia. Sixteen detailed reports were furnished covering the manufacture of men’s shoes, 14 o f which were for high shoes and 2 for oxfords; 27 reports were received for women’s shoes, *24 of which were for low shoes and 3 for high shoes. Twenty-six of these reports were for shoes manufactured by the Goodyear welt method and 17 were for shoes manufactured by the McKay method. The operations and departments in the modern shoe factory, as shown in the tables of this report, emphasize the minute specifica tions as well as the- specialization of work in the manufacture of shoes, the careful and efficient organization, the many different em ployees through whose hands a shoe passes in the process of manu facture, the comparatively short time consumed in performing each operation on a pair of shoes, and the very small labor cost not only for each operation but for all the operations necessary in the manufacture of a pair of shoes. The work of the sole-leather department is divided into cutting and preparation of outsoles, insoles, counters, heels, etc. Many of the establishments covered in this report purchase the various soleleather parts from establishments specializing in the production of such parts. By the inclusion of data drawn from reports obtained 1 2 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANUFACTURING SHOES. from representative establishments engaged in the manufacture and sale of sole-leather parts, complete time and labor costs and other figures are presented for all work necessary in the manufacture of shoes. For figures covering establishments engaged in the manu facture and sale of sole-leather parts only, see pages 132 to 140. For each department of the factory, operations are given as far as possible in the order in which the work is performed. At the end of ea.ch department are shown “ general work,” and “ organization.” “ General work” represents work of a miscellaneous character, while “ organization” represents work of foremen and assistant foremen. Costs and other data for clerks, superintendents, managers, watch men, and power-house employees are not included. The column “ time cost” shows the time in minutes required for one person to perform the operation on 100 pairs of shoes. The “ labor cost” is the amount paid for the work done in the time indicated in the time-cost column. The manufacturers from whom statements were obtained used different methods in arriving at time and labor cost for each opera tion necessary in the manufacture of 100 pairs of shoes. In all sections of the country where shoes are manufactured to any extent, a large per cent of the operations are paid for at piece rates. The rate, o f course, varies with the style of the shoe and as between different factories. The sum total of all piece-rate costs for the work on a particular shoe in each department, plus the propor tionate amount chargeable for time work, operators and foremen and general workers, paid weekly rates, constitute the labor cost for that department. By combining the costs for the various depart ments of the factory the entire labor cost was obtained for the shoe. The piece rate (money cost) per case (one to four dozen pairs) for each operation and for all operations combined was converted to an equivalent cost figure for 100 pairs. Approximately 17 per cent of the factories covered by this study had records of time cost and furnished the desired information from such records. In approximately 10 per cent a man was detailed from the cost department to use a stop watch to arrive at the time ordinarily used by the selected average worker in the performance of each operation on a certain number of shoes, while tune figures for approximately 65 per cent of the plants were obtained by having each operator on a lot of shoes (usually four cases) indicate on a memo randum furnished by this bureau the amount of time spent on each operation on the lot. In the remaining establishments, where complete time-clock rec ords for both time and pieceworkers were available, the total hours worked and total earnings at each occupation during a representative pay period were used in arriving at an average earning rate per hour. In these establishments the time cost was computed from the piece rate and the average earnings per hour for each operation. Example: If the piece rate for slugging heels is 35 cents per case of 36 pairs, and the average hourly earnings for this occupation is 70 cents, the time cost is 30 minutes for 36 pairs. The time cost of each operation in each particular lot of shoes was then converted to an equivalent tim e-cost figure for 100 pairs. INTRODUCTION* 3 Both money-labor cost and time-labor cost shown in this report for organization (foremen and assistants) and other general workers paid on a weekly basis were obtained from the average weekly pro duction for the entire factory and the combined hours and wage rate for each of such employees. If there was more than one worker employed at any of the miscellaneous occupations, all were included. For example: If in a factory whose average output was 10,000 pairs of all kinds of shoes per week the foreman in the cutting department was paid $75 per week of 48 hours (2,880 minutes), the labor cost would be 75 cents and the time cost 28.8 minutes for 100 pairs. In case* there were three foremen in this department receiving the same rate the labor cost would be $2.25 and the time cost 86.4 minutes. The Bureau of Labor Statistics, beginning with the Nineteenth Annual Report (1904) of the Commissioner of Labor, and ending with Bulletin No. 324 (March, 1923), has published many reports on wages and hours of labor of employees in boot and shoe manu facturing. In the Thirteenth Annual Report (pp. 540 to 550), pub lished in 1899, time and labor costs are presented for each operation in the manufacture of shoes by the hand method in 1863 ana by the machine method in 1895. This appears as Appendix A of this bulletin. In Bulletin No. 232 (pp. 165 to 169), published by this bureau in 1918, are presented like cost figures in the manufacture of 100 pairs of men’s snoes in 1916. This has been made Appendix B of the present bulletin. Comparing the 1916 cost figures (Appendix B) with the 1923 figures of the same establishment (pp. 5-8) it is found that the time cost in 1923 is 25.1 per cent less than in 1916, while the labor cost in 1923 is 48.5 per cent more than in 1916. The decrease in the time cost has no doubt been accomplished by the introduction of more effective machinery and by more efficient organization, while the great increase in labor cost is due to increased basic wage rates and the reduction of hours of work. Appendix A shows that to produce 100 pairs of shoes by the hand method in 1863 required 1,831 hours and 40 minutes and that the labor cost for these was $458.19. The same number of similar shoes were made in 1895 by the machine method in 236 hours and 6 minutes, the labor cost being $59.55. In comparing the productivity and labor costs in these periods it is well to note a few of the important changes incident to the growth of this important industry. The production of boots and shoes in the United States was started in a small way by the primitive shoe maker who worked at the bench in his own home, making shoes to order-for the community, and the itinerant shoemaker who trav eled from village to village, carrying his tools on his back, doing re pair work and often contracting to shoe an entire family (the work might take a week or longer, the contract including his entertain ment) ; next came the small shop which accommodated three or four workmen, followed closely by the primitive factory, in which much of the work was still done by hand, and which had an output of only a few pairs per day. The modern factory of to-day with its power-driven machinery can turn out 75,000 pairs every workday in the year. This marvelous change, which is due in a large measure to the introduction of machinery, has taken place within a period of about 65 years. 4 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MANUFACTURING SHOES. For more than 600 years prior to 1858, when the McKay sewing machine was introduced, the methods of shoe making were not greatly improved. The list of machines invented, which followed closely the introduction of the McKay machine, goes well into the thousands, and the inventions by which these were improved are almost number less. Steam power was first introduced to run shoe machinery in 1863, gas engines in 1885, and electric motors in 1889. Another great factor instrumental in lowering time costs has been the division of labor, whereby the various operations necessary for the construction of a shoe, theretofore usually performed by one man, were diyided among several workmen, each doing one particular part. It soon became a well-established fact that some workers were unusually proficient in certain operations, some in cutting, others in preparing the soles, fastening them to the uppers, etc. By this constant attention to a particular part of the shoe, the worker was able to accomplish much more in a given length of time and to do that work better and with less effort than when making the entire shoe. This division of labor continued to increase, and in a much larger degree, after the introduction of machinery. At the present time there are between two and three hundred different operations on a shoe (depending on the method of construction), and in many large establishments each operation is performed by a different employee. One other means of lowering time costs has been the proper arrange ment of the several departments so as to form an unbroken chain in performing the various operations, all following in one direction throughout the factory. This is usually accomplished by locating on the top floor of the factory the upper-cutting department, where the various parts of the upper portion of the shoe are cut and then sent to the next floor below to be stitched together to form the upper. These stitched uppers then go to the lasting department, where they are pulled over the last and united with certain parts sent there from the sole-leather department. . These assembled shoes then continue on to the bottoming, finishing, treeing, packing, and shipping depart ments, arranged in the order named, except the sole-leather depart ment, which is usually located in the basement because of the heavy material and the heavy machinery necessary in the cutting and prep aration of the soles and heels. Thus it is seen that the raw material for the upper is started on the top floor of the factory, continues down through the various departments, and ends on the first floor in the packing department as a completed shoe, ready for- shipment. COST BY DISTRICT, ESTABLISHMENT, AND OPERATION. The figures in the following table are presented separately for each of three geographical districts: (1) New England— including Maine, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire; (2) Central Atlantic States— including New York, Pennsylvania, and Virginia; and (3) Mid-west States—including Illinois, Missouri, and Ohio. 5 ESTABLISHMENT NO. 1, TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION. NEW E N G LA N D D IS T R IC T . E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 — Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Sort leather.............................................................................. Put up jobs for cutters________________________________ _____________ Cut vamp, top, tip, Cut backstays, hand__________ 1....................................... Inspect cut parts______________________________________ Case up euttparts_________ ; __________________________ Sort upper leather remnants__________________________ Cut eyelet facings, hand_______________________ ____ Cut leather top facings, hand Skive eyelet facings_I________ _______________ ________ Sort and case eyelet facings .. .. . Case heel stays'________ ____________________ _____ _ Cut cloth linings, machine____________________________ Case cloth linings_____________________________________ Cut vamp doublers, machine_________________________ Case vamp doublers__________________________________ Cut top doublers, machine__________________________ _ Case top doublers Cut vamp patches_____ _________________ ____________ Cut felt heel pads, machine_____ _____ ___ _____ _____ Sort felt heel pads................................... ............................ Stamp linings......................................................................... Match up linings____ _______________________ _____ ___ Mark vamps for tips............. ............................................... Mark tops for vamp lap________ ____ _________________ Perforate lace row ____ __ _ _ _ . ___ __ _ Skive tips.____ ____ ____ ____ ____ _____ _____________ Punch tips____________ ______________ _______ ________ Skive vamps at cut off__________ _______ _____________ Perforate vamps. ___________ __________________ ______ Skive vamps at heel and throat........ ........... .................... Skive tongues.......................................................................... Skive tops, narrow at back and bottom............................ Skive tops for folding___ _ _ _ ___ _________ Organization............................................................................ Total............................................................................. 15.000 $0,158 .053 4.400 4.460 325.000 and tongue, machine .330 50.000 .417 33.000 25.000 .125 32.600 .250 42.000 .292 .110 14.000 5,800 .046 14.700 .077 .041 6.600 .034 2.500 11.000 .080 1.100 .015 3.000 .023 1.900 .026 3.600 .027 .500 .009 .400 .005 2.400 .019' 11.700 .083 28.000 .146 15.000 .083 9.200 .053 54.500 .167 10.000 .063 20.000 .083 10.000 .063 53.500 .333 20.000 .125 2.770 .023 23.800 .177 21.700 .167 21:820 .340 Hourly wages. $0.632 .723 .823 .396 .758 .300 .460 .417 .471 .476 .314 .373 .816 .436 .818 .460 .821 .450 1.080 .750 .475 .426 .313 .332 .346 .184 .378 .249 .378 .373 .375 .498 .446 :462 .935 896.490 8.503 .569 60.000 100.500 40.000 83.333 23.500 42.800 25.700 44.000 25.800 25.800 42.000 10.800 17.500 55.000 42.800 86.750 204.000 28.000 21.700 20.800 18.400 39.200 323.000 18.400 21.820 .333 .585 .209 .522 .115 .208 . 125 .292 .167 .167 .219 .063 .115 .345 .209 .543 1.417 .282 .125 .125 . 115 .250 2.910 .104 .833 .260 .333 .349 .314 .376 .294 .292 .292 .398 .388 .388 .313 .350 .394 .376 .293 .376 .417 .604 .346 .361 .375 .383 .541 .339 .375 .715 1,554.936 10.638 .411 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 400.00 1,363.64 18.46 120.00 181.82 240.00 184.05 142.86 428.57 1,034.48 408.16 909.09 2,400.00 545.45 5,454.55 2,000.00 3,157.89 1,666.67 12,000.00 15,000.00 2,500.00 512.82 214.29 400.00 652.17 110.09 600.00 300.00 600.00 112.15 300.00 2,166.06 252.10 276.50 274.98 ST IT C H IN G D E P A R T M E N T . Stitch cloth heel stay __ __ _ _ _ ____ Stitch eyelet facing...............................^............................... Stitch top facing___ ____ ___________ _____ ___________ Stitch lace row perforation........ ........................ ............. Paste vamp patch____________________________________ Double vamp_____ : _______________________ _____ ____ Double top______ ___________ _____ ___________________ Stitch tips............................................... ............................... Close vamps______________ ____ _______ ___________ . . . Stay vamps_______________ _•____ _________ ___________ Close tops......... .......................................... .......................... Rub down back seams_______ _______ _____ ____ ______ Cement tops for folding............................... .......... ............ Fold tops, machine.— ...................................... ................... Paste eyelet stays_____________ _____________ _________ Stitch backstays .......... ..................... .................. ................. Stitch tops (undertrim)_______________________________ Eyelet invisible eyelets ..................................... ................. Stain edges........... .................................................................. Lace, machine, 4 holes________________________________ Lace, machine, 1 hole_________________________________ Seam lining at toe____________________________________ Vamp 2-needle space rows Size out uppers__ ____________________ _____ ______ _ Cripple and general work _ __ Organization____ _______ ____________________ ____ ___ Total_____ 133.333 100.00 59.70 150.00 72.00 255.32 14a 19 233.46 136.36 232.56 232.56 142.86 555.56 342.86 109.09 140.19 69.16 29.41 214.29 276.50 288.46 32a 09 153.06 18.58 326.09 45.00 274.98 6 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT, T IM E A N D L A B O R COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. NEW E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. Establishment No. 1.— Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Continued. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Sort stack _. .. _ _ pile near machine T..T _ _ _ Pile on machine _ Cut Grade and skive _ Sort Count _ _ Put. away _ ____ Case_ _ _ _' _ Ship. _ __________________________________ General work__ . . Organization __ _ ____ ______ Total Insoles: Cut ............ __ _ Grade and skive _ __ _______ ___ Sort. _______ Put away Case _ ' __ ____________ Ship _ ___ General work_____________________________________ Organization _ _ Total___ _____ ________ Counters: C u t.___ _ ___ _ ___________ _____ _ Grade and skive __ _ ___ ___ __ ____ ______ Sort, flat • - __ _ Skive_____ • ................... Trim ends . Temper.. _ f„ _ __ ___ . ___ Roll _ * _______ ___ . M o ld _________ _______________________________ Sort molded_ _ Put away_ Case__ _ General work __ ______ Ship • _ _____ _______ __ ___ Organization ___ — Total___________________________________________ Box toe: C u t.___ ____ _ ____ Skive ^TI_ . _ Sort __ _ __ Case. Ship. _ ______ _______________ Organization , ______ _ ___ ________ Total . . . . . . 0.900 .400 .500 33.540 10.000 16.770 1.210 2.600 6.880 1.730 11.985 4.240 $0,008 .006 .004 .400 .080 .210 .011 .019 .073 .016 .053 .074 $0,533 .900 .480 .716 .480 .751 .545 .438 .637 .555 .265 1.047 90.755 .954 .646 31.900 10.190 14.710 1.440 5.090 1.730 11.985 4.520 .365 .068 .185 .015 .048 .015 .052 .063 .687 .400 .755 .625 .566 .520 .260 .836 81.565 .811 .597 28.880 8.000 8.660 4.000 4.600 2.450 3.760 20.000 .292 .070 .090 .035 .040 .023 .034 .180 .607 .525 .624 .525 .522 .563 .543 .540 207.76 75a 00 692.84 1,500.00 1,30A35 2,448.98 1,595.74 300.00 A 810 .2 0 0 3 .4 0 0 3 .9 6 5 .45Q 5 .6 0 0 .0 4 5 .0 0 2 .0 3 4 .0 3 8 .0 0 4 .1 2 8 .5 6 1 .6 0 0 .6 0 0 .5 7 5 .5 3 3 1.371 1 ,2 4 7 .4 0 3 0 ,0 0 0 .0 0 1 , 76A 71 1 ,5 1 3 .2 4 1 3 ,3 3 3 .3 3 1 ,0 7 1 .4 3 9 8.7 75 1.015 .6 1 7 1 .4 8 0 A 060 2 .6 4 0 3 .5 6 0 .4 1 0 1.0 0 0 .0 1 5 .0 4 5 .0 2 2 .0 3 3 .0 0 3 .0 1 7 .6 0 8 .6 6 5 .5 0 0 .5 5 6 .4 3 9 1.0 2 0 13.150 .1 3 5 .6 1 6 Heels (log base, with rand): Make rands (cup grade, crimp, etc.) __ _ _ Make logs (cup lifts, build logs, eta.) _ Saw log blanks __ _ ____ Gouge log blanks Tack rands _ __ _______ ___ Butt rands _ ____ Compress heelsBuff heels ____ _________ ____ ____ Sort heels ___ _ . _ __ ___ Case heels_____ __ _ ___ Case rubber top lifts Ship heels and top lifts _ __ ___ _ General work - _ _ ____ Organization _ _ _______ 50.0 00 134.510 6 .5 0 0 7 .2 1 0 2 3.2 80 6 .7 5 0 1 0.000 3 .0 7 0 7 .4 2 0 3 .1 1 0 3 .6 4 0 .8 6 0 23.0 70 5 .5 5 0 .2 6 1 1.125 .0 4 5 .0 5 1 .2 2 0 .0 3 8 .0 6 3 .0 3 0 .0 6 2 .0 2 9 .0 3 4 .0 0 7 .1 7 7 .0 7 9 .3 1 3 .5 0 2 .4 1 5 .4 2 4 .5 6 7 .3 3 8 .3 7 8 .5 8 6 .50 1 .5 5 9 .5 6 0 .4 8 8 .4 6 0 .8 5 4 Total___________________________________________ 28A970 2.221 .4 6 8 6,666.67 15.000. 12.000. 178.89 600.00 357.78 4.958.68 2.307.69 872.09 3,468.21 500.63 1,415.09 188.09 588.81 407.89 4,166.67 1,178.78 3,468.21 500.63 1,327.41 4 ,0 5 A 0 5 1 ,4 7 7 .8 3 2 ,2 7 2 .7 3 1 ,6 8 5 .3 9 1 4 ,6 3 A 15 6, 0 0 0 .00 120.00 4A 61 923 .08 832 .18 257.73 888.89 600 .00 1 ,9 5 A 4 0 808 .63 1 ,9 2 9 .2 6 1 ,6 4 8 .3 5 6 ,9 7 6 .7 4 260 .08 1 ,0 8 1 .0 8 00 00 7 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 1 . T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY D ISTR IC T, DEPA RTM E N T, AND OPERATION—Continued. NEW EN G LAN D D I S T R I C T — Continued. Establishment No. 1 —Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single sole, leather heel with ruober top lift—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Stock fitting: Stamp size, outsoles____________________________ __________ _______ Scour ________________ outsoles Shank outsoles____________________________ ____ Cement outsoles_______________________________ Wet ontsnlfiS__ Round insoles______________________ ___________ Stamp size, insoles_____________________________ Channel insoles Cement lip, insoles_____________________________ Set lip, insoles _ ______ _________________ ____ ____ Form* gem duck, insoles_________________________ » Trim lip, insoles_______________________________ Stamp insole welt line Round down insole lip ___ Cripple work ” _ General work__________________________________ Organization. __ Total...... ................................................................. Total, sole-leather department .. . 5.850 8.330 13.330 8.330 8.330 11.650 11.700 34.200 14.200 27.500 32.500 25.000 11.700 15.000 3.300 6.825 3.240 $0,042 .063 .083 .063 .063 .115 .063 .323 .083 .178 .229 .157 .073 .104 .021 .058 .074 $0,431 .454 .374 .454 .454 .592 .323 .567 .351 .388 .423 .377 .374 .416 .382 .510 1.370 240.985 810. 200 1.792 6.928 .446 .513 18.000 19.500 23.400 23.200 8.200 68.750 116.000 118.750 240.000 21.800 21.820 679.420 .125 .136 .146 .177 .063 .573 1.210 1.112 2.500 .170 .350 6.562 .417 .418 .374 .458 .461 *500 .626 .562 .625 .468 .962 .579 333.33 307.69 256.41 258.62 731.71 87.27 51.72 50.53 25.00 275.23 274.98 19. 550 26.300 60.000 7.000 87.000 30.000 22.100 22.100 25. 150 27.400 21.700 27.300 15.000 11.250 28.800 60.000 172.500 7.500 28.700 25.000 28.700 14.130 19.450 50.000 50.000 50.000 50.000 21.800 5.000 53.500 34.200 25.000 34.000 115.000 35.000 21.820 .136 .146 .416 .042 1.182 .261 .178 .178 .178 .219 .135 .208 .083 .063 .250 .688 1.915 .042 .230 .157 .230 .083 .115 .553 .313 .553 .313 .146 .042 .445 .386 .219 .178 1.500 .303 .220 .417 .333 .416 .360 .815 .522 .483 .483 .420 .480 .373 .457 .332 .336 .521 .688 .666 .336 .481 .377 .481 .352 .355 .664 .376 .664 .376 .402 .504 .499 .677 .526 .314 .783 .519 .605 306.91 228.14 100.00 857.14 68.97 200.00 271.49 271.49 235.76 218.98 276.50 219.78 400.00 533.33 208.33 100.00 34.78 800.00 209.06 240.00 209.06 424.63 308.48 1,332.250 12.306 .554 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Case up lasts ...... _ ___ _ .... _ . . Put insoles, etc., on rack____________________________ Throw lasts in bin ____ ........ Tack insoles, machine _ _ __ Chalk toes of lasts . r... __ _... Assemble Pull over, machine, and slip in box toes______________ Side last machine . Operate bed machine _ ... Inspect. __ __ Organization..................................................................... Total BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes _ T.. _ _ Staple uppers________________________ ____ ____ ____ Pull tacks.............................. ................................ .......... Wet grooves _ Goodyear welt_____________________________________ Trim inseams, machine...... __ ...... . Butt welts________________________________________ Beat welts. _ Knock tacks, insoles_______________ ________________ Tack ends of welts_________________________________ Tack shanks Fill bottoms _ . ... Cement bottoms. _ . .. _ . __ Put outsoles on rack _ ... . _ _ _ .. Lay soles _ ___ . ___ . _ Rough round__ . Goodyear stitch........................................................... ..... Wind bobbins _ Loose nail heel seats . . . . _ Round heel seats . __ ____ ____ Level _ _ _ _ .... Cement heel bases (leather) ._ _ _ Cement top lifts (rubber)................................................ Heeling, leather base _ ____ . ____ _ ____ Help heeler........................................................................ Heeling rubber top lift ____ ____ Help heeler __ ____ Inspect . .. .. . .. , Cripple work __ ____ General work . . . . __ Trim heels . . . __ ___ ____ Breast heels____ _______ ... __ _________ Fill heels Trim edges____ ________ _. _____ ____ Knife-np (joint). __ ___ Organization ... .. . . _. Total____________________________________ 1,025.64 720.29 450.11 720.29 720.29 515.02 512.82 175.44 422.54 218.18 184.62 240.00 512.82 400.00 1,818.18 879.12 1,851.85 a 12 00 120.00 120.00 120.00 275.23 1,200.00 112.15 175.44 240.00 176.47 52.17 171.43 274.98 = = = S 9 8 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTRICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 .— Men’s Goodyear welt, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels, first time............................................................. Scour heel breasts................................................................... Scour heels, second time........................................................ Set edges, first time................................... _■.......................... ; Stain heels................................................................................ Stain edges................................................................................ Set edges, second time........................................................... Burnish heels........ ................................................................. .Scour bottoms......................................................................... Dustand gum.............................................................. .......... .Paint bottoms......................................................................... Gum and brush bottoms....................................................... Wax bottoms........................................................................... . Cut lacing strings................................................................... '.Pull lasts....................... ......................................................... Wheel bottoms and breasts.................................................. Brand bottoms........................................................................ General work........................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Totai___________________________________________ ; 45.900 27.500 35.800 66.000 17.500 27.100 57.500 45.000 56.000 21.650 33.300 38.400 22.500 16.670 37.300 16.670 16.670 18.000 10.910 $0,438 .199 .303 .740 ;125 .292 .646 .427 .673 .188 .261 .333 .167 .104 .261 .104 .115 .125 .110 $0,573 .434 .508 .673 .429 .646 .674 .569 .721 .521 .470 .520. .445 .374 .420 .374 .414 .417 .605 610.370 5.611 .552 32.000 24.000 178.000 65.000 75.900 33.333 30.000 .25.900 11.700 3.330 20.000 18.000 10.910 .167 .136 1.540 .584 .542 .208 .208 .167 .083 .028 .178 .125 .110 528,073 4.076 .463 6,411.739 54.624 .511 130.72 218.18 167.60 90.91 342.86 221.40 104.35 . 133.33 107.14 277.14 180.18 156.25 266.67 359.93 160.86 359.93 359.93 333 .33 549.95 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Feeling for tacks.................................................................... Paste heel pads.............. .................. .................... ............... Tree, hand................................................................................ Repair tan leather............................... ................................... Dress..................................................... .................................. Lace........................................................................................... Brush heels and edges............................................................ Pack............. ; ................. ....................................................... Seal fiber cases............... ............................................. ......... Stamp fiber cases................................................................... Ship.................................., ....................................................... General work.............................................. ............................. Organization.......................................I ................................... Tntftl Grand total______ ____ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . _______ ________ » .313 .340 .519 .539 .428 .374 .416 . .387 .426 .505 .'534 .417 .605 187.50 250.00 33.71 92.31 79.05 180.00 200.00 231.66 512.82 1,801.80 300.00 3 33.33 549.95 3 —Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Put up stock............................................................................ Die boy.........................................................—......................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine...... ......................... Sort and case up..................................................................... Cut cloth linings, machine.............................—................... Mark linings............................................................................ Skive uppers........................................................................... Perforate tips........................................................................... Put up facings......................................................................... Put up tongues and back stays........................................... Mark vamps.......................................................................... Match marks............................................................ ............. Match up work....................................................................... Crimp....................................................................................... Tip stain................................................................................... T)ay work , . ___ Organization............................................................................ 6.250 15.625 480.208 62.500 29.167 11.458 135.417 9.375 18.750 26.042 5.208 31.250 5.208 26.042 7.292 16.000 33.333 $0,084 .098 6.483 .844 .394 .072 1.216 , 127.152 .203 .042 .164 .041 .203 .038 .140 .590 Total___________________________________________ 919.125 10.891 .711 3.125 62.500 41.667 270.833 31.250 15.625 145.833 .019 .328 .246 1.875 .310 .178 1.000 .365 .315 .354 .415 .595 .684 .411 $0,806 .376 .810 .810 .8 1 0 . .377 — ,539 ,8 1 3 .486 .468 .484 .315 .472 .468 .313 .525 1.062 960.00 384.00 12.49 96.00 205.71 523.65 44.31 640.00 320.00 230.40 1, 152.07 192.00 1, 152.07 230.40 822.82 375.90 180.00 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Check work.................... .................................... .................. Double tops................... ........... ............. ............ .......... ....... Mark eyelet rows.................................................................... Stitch eyelet rows.................................................................... Seam tops................................................................................. Rub down seams_______________:______________________ Backstay long blucher........................................................... 1, 920.00 96*00 144.00 22.15 192.00 384.00 41.14 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 3, 9 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 8 .— Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number • of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Trim tops ___________________________________________ Fold........................................................................................... Hookstay and sort_________ _____ _______________ ____ H o ok ...’ ........ .................................... .................................... Mark linings........................................................................... Stitch linings_________________________________________ Stitch top facings_________________ _______ ___________ Trim linings_ _ ____________________ ____ ____________ Match up.” ___________________________________________ Turn bafs.................... ............................................................ Undertrim. __________________________________________ Eyelet.. .............................................................................. Trim linings__________________________________________ Fold tips _________________________________________ Line tips_____________________________________________ Mark vamps _______________________________________Ormhlft vamps and p.p.mfvnt; stays ....... .... Stitch box toes________________________________________ Snrt tips and vamps, and match up Stitch tips_______r____________________________________ Cement tongue tn lining Stitch tongue lining to tongue_________________________ Trim and sort vamps and stitch blucher tongue_______ Arch support on vamps_______________________________ Sort vamps for vampers r Vamp. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Lace n, ....... Day work____________ ________________________________ Organization__ ____ ____________________ ______ _____ 20.833 109.375 57. 292 26.042 15. 625 98.958 20.833 9.375 5.208 114. 583 145. 833 26.042 9.375 15.625 31.250 18.750 46.875 26.042 10.417 46.875 26.042 78.125 104.167 15.625 10.417 265.625 36.458 16.000 33.333 $0,109 .917 .301 .366 . 175 Total............................................................................... SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Out . . . . . . . Grade____ _. .. _ _ _ _ _ _ . _ _ ... Sort. T _ Case___________ ________ _________________________ 2,011.833 17.030 35.417 10.417 26.042 6.250 .425 .059 .289 .069 .666 .662 169.41 575.98 230.40 960.00 78.126 .842 .647 76.80 46.875 15.625 15.625 5.208 .527 .088 .159 .053 .675 .338 .611 .611 128.00 384.00 384.00 1,152.07 72.00 Total ______ _______ . _ ... Insoles: Cut...................... ............................................................. Grade . __ ......... _ _ ______ Sort __ j ... _ _ Case______________________________________________ 1.022 .125 .049 .038 1.000 1.097 .281 .049 .178 .225 .173 .459 .310 .072 .441 .169 .563 1.031 .104 .072 2.948 .160 .140 .500 $0,314 .503 .315 .843 .672 .620 .360 .314 .438 .524 .451 .647 .314 .684 .432 .554 .588 . 714 .415 .564 .389 .432 .594 .399 .415 .666 .263 .525 .900 288.00 54.86 104.73 230.40 384.00 60.63 288.00 640.00 . 1,152.07 52.36 41.14 230.40 640.00 384.00 192.00 320.00 128.00 230.40 575.98 128.00 230.40 76.80 57.60 384.00 575.98 22.59 164.57 375.00 180.00 .507 .720 .340 Total............................................................................... 83.333 .827 .595 Counters, leather 1_ ______ _ _ _ __ Box toes, leather l .... , . . . . _____ Heels, leather, men’s, 4 /8 1 ____________________________ Stock fitting: Skive outsoles .............................. ......... ......... ............ Stamp outsoles................................................................. Reduce shanks and tie up....................... ................. Round insoles........... ...................... ................. ........ ..... Stamp insoles and tie up........................... ................. Stamp sizes and cut shanks.......................................... Channel.................................. ............................ ............ Cement insoles___________ _____ ___ _______ ______ Set lips:............................................................................. Lay cloth.......................................................................... Form............................ ............................................... Trim................................................................................... Inspect cases and tie u p ____________________ Day work________________________________________ Organization.................................................................... 158.915 113.788 230.247 1.314 1.033 2.147 .496 .545 .559 6.250 3.125 26.042 16.667 8.333 8.333 19.792 9.375 18.750 15.625 15.625 23.958 9.375 32.000 33.333 .045 .023 .188 .143 .047 .048 .450 .094 .188 .090 .103 .273 .062 .290 .533 .432 .442 .433 .515 .338 .346 1.364 .602 .602 .346 .396 .684 .397 .544 .959 Total_________________________________________ 246.583 2.577 .627 Total, sole-leather department.................................. 910.992 | 8.740 .576 960.00 1,920.00 230.40 359.99 720.03 720.03 303.15 640.00 320.00 384.00 384.00 250.44 640.00 187.50 180.00 * These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several rep resentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 10 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 3.—Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. D e p a r t m e n t a n d o p e r a t io n . T im e cos t o f 100 p a irs (m in u t e s ). L a b o r cost o f 100 p a irs. H o u r ly w a g e s. N um ber o f p a irs w ork ed on per h our. LASTING DEPARTMENT. 4 .1 6 7 14.533 11.458 3 0.208 491.667 125.000 383.333 3 .1 2 5 4 6.875 3 3 .3 33 $ 0,0 24 .2 7 3 .43 1 4.5 8 4 1 .587 4.821 .03 1 .4 6 9 .6 1 3 $ 0 ,3 4 6 .4 1 1 1 .4 3 0 .8 5 6 .5 5 9 .7 6 2 .7 5 4 .5 9 5 .6 0 0 1 .103 1 ,1 4 3 .7 4 9 12.932 .6 7 9 3 6 .4 5 8 21.8 75 17.708 133.333 36.4 58 .3 3 8 .2 7 3 .2 4 4 2 .2 5 0 .2 7 3 .5 5 6 .7 4 9 .8 2 7 1.0 1 3 .4 4 9 164.57 2 7 4 .29 3 3 8 .83 4 5 .0 0 164.57 31.250 34.375 31.250 41.667 24.479 38.542 22.917 47.917 4.167 7.292 13.542 14.583 28.125 25.000 46.354 13.542 97.396 12.500 28.646 38.542 7.292 77.604 30.208 21.875 135.417 28.125 31.000 33.333 .236 .435 .218 .273 .244 .273 .172 .256 .026 .046 .102 .131 .435 .292 1.125 .188 2.550 .078 .375 .450 .035 1.637 .900 .375 3.075 .490 .270 .613 .453 .759 .419 .393 .598 .425 .450 .321 .374 .378 .452 .539 .928 .701 1.456 .833 1.571 .374 .785 .701 .288 1.266 1.788 1.029 1.363 1.045 .523 1.103 192.00 174.55 192.00 144.00 245.11 155.67 261.81 125.22 1,439.88 822.82 443.07 411.44 213.33 240.00 129.44 443.07 61.60 480.00 209.45 155.67 822.82 77.32 198.62 274.29 44.31 213.33 193.55 180.00 1,212.772 18.678 .925 B u r n is h . . . . _ _____ _____ _ _ S e t e d g e s ...................................................................................................... S c o u r h e e l b re a sts ____________ _____ A l ig n h eels _ _ _ _ ______ S c o u r h e e ls, first t i m e . _. _ ____ __________ S c o u r h eels, s e c o n d t im e _______ _ _ ______ W et, h e e ls _ _ ___ .... . B l a c k h e e l s .. . . .. _____ _ ____ M a t e sh oa s S t o n e a n d k e y h eels _ ____ _ _ _ . . . . S cou r b o tto m s _ D u s t ____ .. _ . ____ ______ G um T S t r i p e ____ . . .. ___ _____ _ _________ C le a n h e e ls _ _____ P u ll la s ts _ _ _ _ _ . ... _ _ ___ S ta m p b o tto m s __ _ _. . . . _ O r g a n iz a t io n . _ _ 22.396 223.958 12.500 8.333 20.833 25.000 8.333 8.333 8.333 62.500 62.500 12.500 41.667 20.833 4.167 50.000 37.500 33.3 33 .272 3.075 .180 .131 .713 .713 .043 .055 .043 .788 1.065 .117 .391 .145 .029 .383 .241 .623 .729 .824 .864 .943 2.053 1.711 .310 .396 .310 .756 1.022 .562 .563 .418 .418 .460 .386 1.121 T o t a l ____________________________________________________ 663.019 9.007 .815 C r ip p le w o r k _________________________________________________ S t o c k -r o o m w n r k ... _ ... P i c k la sts . ... T a c k in s o le s a n d t r im . _ ___ A s s e m b le a n d s id e la st, h a n d P u ll o v e r , m a c h in e . v . O p e r a t e b e d m a c h in e C o b b l e . _____ _. C row n. _ O r g a n iz a t io n ., _ T ota l _____________ ___________ ______ _________ .100 1 ,4 3 9 .8 8 4 11 .44 5 23 .65 198 .62 12.20 4 8 .0 0 1 5 .6 5 1 ,9 2 0 .0 0 128 .00 1 80 .00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. P u ll la s t t a c k s S t a p le u p p e r s _ _ ._ _____ T r i m toes" _ - _ ... G o o d y e a r w e lt ... . _ _ _ _ ... P u ll t o e w ir e s HTnock t a c k s _ _ ...... T r i m in s e a m s _ ...... B u tt, w e l t s . _ _ _ B e a t w e lt s _ ,. _ ____ _ T a c k sh an ks F ill b o t t o m s _____________ , ___________________________ C a r t solas . , • T r T R i v e t sola s ...... _ . P ic k s to c k W e t s t o c k ______ ______________________________________________ C e m e n t s o le s . . . . . ____ C em en t b o tto m s r.... _ _ ................ __ L a y so le s . . . . N a i l h e e l s e a t s . _____________________________________________ R ou g h rou n d T r i m h eel sea ts T _ r . , G o o d y e a r s t i t c h .' _ ___ . ... S o r t s h o e s ______________________________________________________ W h e e l e d g a s ___ ____ L evel ____ P i c k h e e ls __ H e e l . ................... Y . ..................................................................................... S h a v e h eels B reast _ _ _ _ T rim edg es. .. __ J o in t in g . ____ D a v w o r k __ _ __ _ ______ _ ______ ______ O r g a n iz a t io n _ T o t a l ________________ ________ _____________ FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 267.90 26.79 480.00 720.03 288.00 240.00 720.03 720.03 720.03 96.00 96.00 480.00 144.00 288.00 1,439.88 120.00 160.00 180.00 11 E S T A B L IS H M E N T NO* 4. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t JVb.S.—Men’s Goodyear welt, black kid, high blucher with arch shank, flexible sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. T R E E IN G AND P A C K IN G Number of pairs worked on per hour. DEPARTM ENT. 20.042 21.875 2C8.958 58.333 27.083 151.042 97.917 12.500 12.500 25.000 16.667 21. 875 18.750 9.375 57.333 $0,146 .123 3.114 .438 .381 .929 .551 , 084 .077 .155 .094 .144 .146 .073 .743 $0,336 .337 .625 .451 .844 .369 .338 .403 .370 .372 .338 .395 .467 .467 .778 855.250 7.198 .505 7,716.740 84.476 .657 Cut tacks_____________________________________________ Line heels____________________________________________ Tree, hand___________________________________________ Repair_______________________________________________ Brush heels and edges_________________________________ Dress______ ______ ___________________________________ Mate, tie, tag, and lace, and clean linings_____________ Label____ ______________________ ______ _________ ____ Stencil cartons________________________________________ Pack _ ______________________________________________ Put o n a n d t a k e s h o e s f r a m b e n c h ....... _ _ Take f r o m e l e v a t o r a n d n a i l c a s e s Stencil cases__________________________________________ Ship and load on trucks_______________________________ Organization____ ____________________________________ T o t a l__ _______________________________________ Grand total ___ ___ _ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o , Hourly wages. 230.40 274.29 20.07 102.86 221.54 39.72 61.28 480.00 480.00 240.00 359.99 274.29 320.00 640.00 104.65 4.— Men’s Goodyear welt, russian bal, 12 square edge, 8 iron sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Put up job for cutters................................. Get out patterns.......................................... Cut cloth linings, hand.............................. Case, cloth linings...................................... Cut, whole bal facings_________________ Case-up trimmings..................................... Cut and case-up tongues........................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, band--------Sort................................................................ Match marks............................................... Punch tips................................................... Skive tops, wide for fold............................ Skive tops, narrow...................................... Skive tips...................................................... Skive vamp throats................................... Skive vamp toes.......................................... Skive backstays........................................... Skive tongues...................... ....................... Assemble shoes........................................... Organization................................................. 83.333 20.833 50.000 33.333 162.500 41.667 45.833 812.500 83.333 83.333 8.333 62.500 50. COO 8.333 29.170 12.500 25.000 25.000 20.833 86.000 $1.125 .118 .597 .190 1.268 .237 .261 9.350 1.125 .425, .050 .609 .487 .081 .284 .122 .207 .188 .118 1.376 $0.810 .340 .716 .342 .468 .341 .342 .690 .810 .306 .360 .585 .584 .583 .584 rQn •O oO Total.................................................. ,744.334 18.218 .627 36.860 33.333 145. 833 79.170 41.670 830 41.670 29.170 12.500 16.670 62.500 75.000 41.670 166.670 145.830 33.330 8.330 66.667 12.500 41.670 20.830 .185 .355 1.509 .853 .365 .234 .600 .365 .177 .177 .731 .731 .252 L 321 1.200 .544 .102 .380 .071 .309 .177 .301 .639 .621 .646 .526 .674 .864 .751 .850 .637 .702 .585 .363 .467 .494 .979 .735 .342 .341 .445 .510 .497 .451 .340 .960 72.00 288.00 120.00 180.00 36.92 144.00 130.91 7.38 72.00 72.00 720.00 96.00 120.00 720.00 205.69 480.00 240.00 240.00 288.00 69.77 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Check in and give out work...................... Stamp and grade linings ........................... Make linings....... ........................................ Stitch tongues to linings........................... Stitch top facings to linings....................... Mark.eyelet ro w s................ .................... Stitch eyelet rows........................................ Seam tops...................................................... Rub down seams......................................... Cement tops................................................. Fold tops...................................................... Stitch backstays.......................................... Cement hookstays................. .................... Turn bals...................................................... Stitch tops (undertrim)............................. Eyelet............................................................ Sort tops........................................................ Double tops................ ................................ Double heels of vamps............................... Cement vamp doublers............................. Cement tip doublers................................... 162.78 180.00 41.14 75.79 143.99 288.05 143.99 205.69 480.00 359.93 96.00 80.00 143.99 36.00 41.14 180.02 720.29 90.00 480.00 143.99 288.05 12 * T I M E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D DISTRICT* T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 .— Men’s Goodyear welt, rassian bal., 12 square edge, 8 iron sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost cost of 100 pairs ofLabor 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Trim vamp doublers _________ ______________ fit.iteh tip«*nn vamps_______________________________ Stitnh tips holding*htvr t.nes under y^mps ........... ihlnsA heel sftflms, nib spams, and trim ends Bar toe lining, holding in tongue __ . Give out work to vampers, etc______________________ Bar * ____________________ *______________________ Organization;.__ ___________________ _____ __ : ----------Total........................................................................ SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Insoles: Cut____________ __ ____________________________ Grade ..... Sort_____ - ________ ____________________________ Case-up_______________________________________ Tntfti Counters, leather t . _ Bo* toes, leather *__________________________________ 12.500 41.670 41.670 54.170 16.670 75.000 36.860 291.670 20.850 20.830 20.830 43.000 $0.132 .496 .552 .720 .132 .600 .233 3.674 .234 .225 .108 .480 $0,634 .714 .795 .797 .475 .480 .379 .756 .674 .648 .311 .670 1,808.403 18.224 .605 98.008 1.010 .619 50.000 15.000 50.000 10.000 .580 .084 .510 .132 .696 .336 .612 .792 125.000 1.306 .627 158.915 113.788 1.314 1.033 .496 .545 .023 .540 .121 .156 .014 .500 .380 .460 .648 .464 .484 .468 .280 .300 .353 270.500 1.855 .411 2.000 2.000 .019 .019 .262 .570 .570 .786 .807 .810 .480 .342 .432 .333 .996 Heels: 3.000 Grade stock_______________________________ ____ Build bases (Alsop m achine) ____ ____ __________ 50.000 Gouge bases . _ _ __ n 15.000 Compress bases . _ _ __ 15.000 Port bases . 20.000 Count bases _ ____ 3.000 Cement rubber heel bases__________________ ____ 100.000 Organization _ _ _ _ ____ 64.500 Tnt.nl ....... . Stock fitting: Take in and check. ____ _ ___________ __ Take in stock, cut shanks, check lots, etc................ Round insoles__________________________________ Stamp and snip__________ ____ _________________ Channel insoles_____________ ______ ____ ________ Turn up channels and tie up insoles_____________ Check up insoles_______________________________ Shank ontsoles __ . . . . . . __ Cement and tie up . . . _ T ________ . . . r Organization............................................................... Total........................................................................ Total, sole-leather department............................... LASTING DEPARTMENT. Case counters_______________________ —__ _________ A ssemble counters, lasts, and insoles r. __ ___ Pick lasts_________________________________________ Tack and trim insoles _ . Assemble for pull-over machine _ _ . , Pull over, machine T . ___ T nT1_. pide la s t, hand ...... __, Operate bed machine ____ ________ Crown _ __________________________ - ___________ Organization...................................................................... T o ta l 20.000 8.330 33.330 37.500 10.000 20.830 15.150 21.500 170.640 936.851 8.330 33.330 33.330 29.170 125.000 104.170 187.500 375.000 62.500 43.000 1,001.330 .121 .112 .450 .300 .057 .150 .084 .357 1.810 8.328 .065 .226 .380 .426 1.670 . 1.723 . 2.656 4.877 .591 .480 13.094 480.00 143.99 143.99 110.76 359.93 80.00 162.78 20.57 288.05 288.05 288.05 139.53 _________ __ 120.00 400.00 m oo 600.00 2*000.00 120.00 400.00 ^400.00 300.00 2,000.00 6a oo 93. Oft 3.000. 3.000. 300.00 720.29 180.02 160.00 600.00 288.05 396.04 279.07 .636 .533 .468 .407 .684 .876 .802 - -.9 9 2 .850 .780 .567 .670 .784 720.29 180.02 180.02 205.69 48.00 57.60 32.00 16.00 96.00 139.53 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 00 00 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 4 , 13 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 .—Men’s Goodyear welt, russian bal., 12 square edge, 8 iron sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT Trim toes................................................. ............................... Full tacks................................................................................. Goodyear welt......................................................................... Pull insole and side tacks, tack and butt welts................ Trim inseams........................................................................... Beat welts.......... .................................................................... Tack in shanks........................................................................ Fill bottoms............................................................................. Cement bottoms..................................................................... Lay soles................................................................................... Nail heel seats......................................................................... Rough round............................................................................ Trim heel seats........................................................................ Turn channels......................................................................... Goodyear stitch....................................................................... Cement channels.................................................................... Close channels........................................................................ Wheel stitch............................................................................ Level......................................................................................... Heeling..................................................................................... Slug heels................................................................................. Shave heels................... .......................................................... Breast heels...... ....................................................................... Rough scour heels.................................................................. Trim edges............................................................................... Knife up joints........................................................................ Organization................. .......................................................... 20.830 79.170 125.000 100.000 29.170 33.330 29.170 33.330 2a 630 41.670 33.330 58.330 20.830 20.830 166.670 16.670 20.830 45.830 37.500 83.330 41.670 33.330 33.330 29.170 133.330 41.670 43.000 $0,244 .250 2.475 .708 .436 .298 .272 .273 .136 .500 .292 1.200 .190 .190 2.925 .169 .220 .435 .489 1.202 .648 .733 .412 .343 3.075 .490 .536 $0,703 .189 1.188 .425 .897 .536 .559 .491 .396 .720 .526 1.234 .547 .547 1.053 .608 .634 .570 .782 .865 .933 1.320 .742 .706 1.384 .706 .748 Total.............................................................................. 1,371.950 19.141 .836 Set edges................................................................................... Scour heel breasts................................................................... Scour and smooth heels......................................................... Wet in heels............................................................................. Black heels............................................................................... Clean soles................................................................................ Clean top pieces...................................................................... Wet natural bottoms............................................. ................ Gum natural bottoms............................................................ Stripe........................................................................................ Expedite................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ 187.500 16.670 58.330 25.000 29.170 25.000 25.000 20.830 54.170 20.830 62.500 21.500 3.075 .189 .712 .148 .173 .215 .300 .435 .600 .225 .787 .357 .984 .680 .732 .355 .356 .516 .720 1.253 .665 .648 .756 .996 Total.............................................................................. 54a 500 7.216 .792 25.000 16.670 41.670 62.500 70.830 395.830 250.000 25.000 37.500 .375 .106 .234 .352 .436 5.000 18.800 .357 .337 .641 .239 .103 .103 .179 .218 .357 .900 .382 .337 .338 .369 .758 .451 .857 .539 .369 .574 .371 .371 .368 .543 .996 1,162.280 10.917 .563 8,571.648 95.138 .666 288.05 75.79 48.00 60.00 205.69 180.02 205.69 180.02 290.84 143.99 180.02 102.86 288.05 288.05 36.00 359.93 288.05 130.92 160.00 72.00 143.99 180.02 180.02 205.69 45.00 143.99 139.53 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 32.00 359.93 102.86 240.00 205.69 240.00 240.00 288.04 110.76 288.04 96.00 279.07 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENTS. Pull lasts.................................................................................. Stamp bottoms....................................................................... Feel for tacks........................................................................... Line heels................................................................................. Dress......................................................................................... Tree, hand................................................................................ Repair....................................................................................... Brush heels and edges........................................................... Clean stitches.......................................................................... Inspect.................................................................... ................. Emboss.................................................................................... Stamp cartons....................... .......... ....................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Ship.......................................................................................... Organization............... ........................................................... Total ...... Grand total 84791°— 24t------2 . ________________ 104.170 25.000 16.670 16.670 29.170 24.100 21.500 240.00 359.93 143.99 9a 00 84.71 15.16 24.00 24a 00 160.00 57.60 240.00 359.93 359.93 205.69 24a 96 279.07 14 T IM E A N D IA k O R CJOSTB— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTR ICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 160 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Cmatinued. NEW M sia b U sh m ejU E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — C ontinued. JTo. A—Women's Goodyear welt, black kid, lace oxford, perforated tip, single sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand.......... Cut vamps and toe linings, hand........... Stamp linings (quarter and toe)............. Mark uppers......................................... — Out backstays;, hand............. ................... Skive............................... — ............... Perforate tips...................... — .................. Assemble............................— ............... Day work........................... ........................ Organization........................- ..................... Total............ ............ ........ ~............. STITCHING DEPARTMENT. 400.000 00.000 20.000 15.000 30.000 00.000 45.000 15.000 255.000 eo.ooo $8,200 .625 .233 .194 .200 .870 .403 .250 1.540 1.068 960.000 13.583 6a ooo Stitch lace rows----- ---------- ------- ---------------------Stitch vamps and quarter linings------------------Close quarters and linings— ........................— Stiteh backstays—..................................... ........... Snip backstay stitch-------------- ----------------------Cement side stay......................................... ......... Press and cement quarters, tips, and vamps... Stitch tips.............................. —............................. Stitch tops----------- ---------- — .............................. Black........................ ............. ........... Close toes........................- ................................ Pack......................................................................... Day work........................ ............ ......................... Organization..______ ____ — ............................ Total........ - ............ - ................................ m oo 133.33 400.00 23.53 100.00 ioaoo m oo m oo 35.000 35.000 . 65.000 30.000 240.000 45.000 1,665.000 .666 .588 .649 .639 .480 .375 .667 .450. .632 .666 .398 .666 .917 .475 .475 .538 .500 .625 1.068. .617 84111 1M.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .545 .461 25.000 15.000 15.000 40.000 20.000 35.000 .222 .100 .083 .669 .250 .650 .388 .388 .116 .070. .278 3.214 240.00 400.00 400.00 150.00 300.00 171.43 200.00 200.00 400.00 400.00 400.00 240.00 240.00 46.15 66.67 66.67 33.33 255.32 400.00 saooo isaooo. Eyelet___________ ________ __ ______ ________ Vamp___________ _________ —.....................— Lace................................................................ ......... 15.00 100.00 300.00 400.00 200.00 .666 .588 .541 .639 .833 .250 1.000 2.027 1.000 1.666 .166 .333 2.750 .277 .277 .583 .250 2.500 .801 17.147 60.000 50.000 60.000 105.000 40.000 90.000 270.000 95.000 15d 000 25.000 M-otoft lin in g s _______________________________________ $1,230 .625 .699 .776 .400 .870 .537 1.000 .362 1.068 .849 100.00 57.14 150.00 66.67 22.22 63.16 40,60 240.40 200.00 33.33 171.43 171.43 92.31 200.00 25.00 133.33 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Ontsoles, leather L .r__________ _______ ______ Insoles, leather^— ...........— .................. ............. Counters, leather1- .................... ............ ............. Box toes, leather1- -------------------------- -------------Heels, leather, 8/81............. .................................. Stock fitting: Dink.................... - ................... ......... ............. Stamp and cut heel seats._______________ Cut toes.............. ....................................... . Channel____. . . . . ________ - _________ - __ Cement........................................................... Rib set..........................—.............................. . Cut off and form in.......... ............................ Reenforoe—................. ................................— Size and tie up__________________________ Day work-----------------------------------------------Organization............... .......... ........................ Total____________ __________________ _ Total, sole-leather department------------- 1,145.397 10.775 .533 .400 .332 1.004 .750 1.114 .776 .776 .464 .280 1.112 .756 . .564 25.000 25.000 .555 .444 2.833 L5S3 2.041 3.583 .155 .278 11.472 1.332 1.066 1.307 1.055 1361 1.194 .396. 1.112 1.100 3a 000 30.000 15.000 15.000 15.000 255.000 . LASTING DEPARTMENT. Pick and throwaway lasts— .......................... . Tack insoles.........................—................... .......... Assemble for pull-over machine......................... Pull over, machine_______ _________ ________ Side last, machine.............. ............................ ..... Operate bed machine........................................... Day work______________________ ________ ___ Organization.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . __ Total____. . . . __________________ - __ . . . m 000 90.000 90.000 180.000 23.500 15.000 578.5001 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 15 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 5. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . S .—Women's Goodyear welt, black kid, lace oxford, perforated tip, single sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim uppers _ _ , Staple-1-1__________________________ ______ _____ _____ Pull upper tacks_________ ___________ ________ _______ Goodyear welt________________________________________ Pull bottom tacks_________ ___________________________ Trim inseams____________ - ___________________________ Butts...................... ................................................................ Beat welts_______________________________________ ____ Put in shank ,, Fill in cork_______ _________ ____________________ _____ Cement shnes , _ Cement soles_________________________________________ Lay and find soles____________________________________ Rough round_________________________________________ Turn channels ... . . . . . . . __ ___ _ Skive shanks__________________________________________ Stitch (fudge)............ ............ ................ .............................. .................. Break shanks Lay and cement channels______ __________ ____ Tj«vel Nail heal seats _ Trim heel seats _ . . . . . . . _ . _ . . ...... Slug heels (three nails)_____ ________ _________ Shave heels .... ____ ____ _ _ _ _____ _.. Nail heels ... ________ _ ________ ____ _____ Breast heels___________________ ________ _________________ Trim edges ___________ Daywork.. Organization. . _ . . . . _______ _ ... _ Total ..... _________ 25.000 25.000 40.000 90.000 40.000 22.000 15.000 15.000 12.000 22.000 18.000 12.000 35.000 35.000 1 15.000 15.000 135.000 15.000 30.000 45.000 40.000 20.000 70.000 20.000 25.000 17.000 150.000 23.500 15.000 $0,361 .250 .666 2.708 .333 .722 .277 .381 .250 .416 .194 .115 .750 1.200 .305 .277 3.000 .277 .472 1.083 .354 .250 1.125 .354 .875 .417 3.000 .155 .278 $0,866 .600 .999 1.805 .500 1.969 1.108 1.524 1.250 1.135 .647 • .575 1.286 2.057 1.220 1.108 1.333 1.108 .944 : 1.444 .531 .750 .964 1.062 2.100 1.472 1.200 .396 1.112 20.845 1.201 25.000 20.000 140.000 25.000 20.000 20.000 20.000 15. COO 70.000 25.000 30.000 15.000 55.000 25.000 10.000 60.000 20.000 25.000 30.000 .542 .209 2.750 .542 .250 .413 .250 .138 .833 .750 .583 .333 .916 .833 .250 1.000 .472 .180 .556 1.301 .627 1.179 1.301 .750 1.239 .750 .552 .714 1.800 1.166 1.332 .999 1.999 1.500 1.000 1.416 .432 1.112 650.000 11.800 1.089 15.000 270.000 24.000 60.000 60.000 15.000 72.000 15.000 55.000 90.000 15.000 .250 4.020 .222 .480 .480 .138 .666 .120 .450 .900 .278 1.000 .893 .555 .480 .480 .552 .555 .480 .491 .600 1.112 1,041.500 240.00 240.00 150.00 66.67 150.00 272.73 400.00 400.00 500.00 272.73 333.33 500.00 171.43 171.43 400.00 400.00 44.44 400.00 200.00 133.33 150.00 300.00 85.71 300.00 240.00 352.94 40.00 255.32 400.00 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Soonr heels, first time _ ____ , _ Scour breasts__________ _______________________________ Set edges_______________ ______________________________ Scour heels, second time . _ _ . _ Align breasts _ ____ Slick heels ,. , _ T_______ Enamel heels . ir . T Black heels . __ Burnish heels . . Buff Nanmkeag _ ___, ...... _ _ . . . ..... ..... _ __ ______________ _ ____________________________ _____________________ ..... r__ Bleach _______ Hard finish bottoms Wax bottoms.... . Black heel tops __ .. . . .. ____ ......... _ . n „ , . T _ ____ _ _ _ _ _ nir „r „, r _ _ ^ ... . ........ __ _ Ch'an._________ ____ ___________ ____ ________________________________ ________ Pull lasts_____________________________________________ Davwork____ .. Organization 1lir Total - - _________ . . . . . . . . . _____ _ ...... _ ______ . . . . _ .. ... 240.00 300.00 42.86 240.00 300.00 300.00 300.00 400.00 85.71 240.00 200.00 400.00 109.09 240.00 600.00 100.00 300.00 240.00 200.00 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Line-in sock line _ _ Iron, dean, and dress Inspect Repair LaCe _ ^ _ _ nnmmr-r {Irtish Pack . .... ... ___ __ _____ ___________ __ ___ _ , _ Stamp cartons _____ _ _ Davwork _ _________ General work (shipping) ... Organizatinn ......... _ ^ _ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _ _ _ ___ _____ ____ _ _... ... _ . ... Total__________- _____ _________________ - _______ 691.000 8.004 .695 Grand total— _________________________________ 6,731.397 93.626 .835 400.00 22.22 250.00 100.00 100.00 400.00 83.33 400.00 109.09 66.67 400.00 16 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES I N 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 9.—Men’s Goodyear welt, tan, full quarter bals., perforated tip stitched aloft, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lut. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Put up work for nutters , _ _ ...... T _ ___ Cut vamps, quarters, and tongues, machine. ___ Cut niece facings, mallet d ie ___ _ _ __ Out backstays,“ m achine. ___ _ .. Cut linings, machine . ____________________________ Cut doublers, machine ~r— - - - - Sort vamps, etc ^ ^. M ark heel stays. _ _ _ __ _ Perforate eyelet row, fox row, vamps, and tips________ Stamp linings ___ 1_______ '_____*__'____ *__I_________ Skive*uppers.. _ _____ ______ . Organization.............. Jl.................................................... Total_____________________ _________________ STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Make facings _ _ _ ___ . _ General work _„, . _____ .. _T _ ____ Paste facings . _ Paint edges, backstays _r _rT. r _ _ ____ Paint edges', tips _ ’ . __ .... _ ... Paint edges' vamps . ___ r r Uniihle vamps * _ _ _ _ _ . . Close quarters.. __ _ _ - rr_ Paste tip lining___ . ______ ____ .... . .. . . Paste eyelet stay.. Rub quarter seams Stitch perforated eyelet row ____ _ . . . _ . . . _ _. Stitch foxing perforation. ____ . - ... _ _ Stitch hack stays _ Tr. , nn , Stitch tips _ . . . _____ ___ Stitch box toes________________________________________ Cement tops _ __ _ ___ _ __ Fold tops . _ . _ , .r Line tongues _ _ .......... _ . ___ r_ Stitch eyelet facings. . . . _____ Stitch heel stays. ____ _____ _ ___ _.. Stitch top facing . _______ _ _ ______ Stitch tops ..... ................. Stain edge facings _ . _ _____ ____ ______ _ _ Eyelet _ ____ Vam p. ____ _ ...... _ ..... .............. Seam toe linings. _____ _____ _ . . . . . . . ... Lace “ ensign” . ._ ___ ____ Sort__________________ ____________________ ______ Cripple work _ _ _ ... __r _ _ Organization........................................................................ Total............................................................................... SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather I . . . ._ Insoles, leather 1______________________________________ Connters, leather i Box toes, leather i _ _ ___ . . . _r......... „ Heels, leather, men’s, 4/8*.................................................... Stock fitting: Put up jobs . r ___ . ____ Round insoles' Cut lips and score insoles_______________________ Channel insoles_______ ___ ___ ________ _ Cement lips of insoles. ___ ___ _____ Set lips of insoles _ _____ _____ _ __ ... Gem insoles _ r ...... Reenforce insoles . . . _ . .Tr T r Case and sort insoles . . _ Reduce outsole sh an ks_____________ __ ____ _ Cement ontsoles ________________ __ Organization............................................................... Total............................................................................... Total, sole-leather department.................................. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. 86.667 273.333 108.333 12.500 17.500 10.250 50.000 21.667 83.333 21.667 130.000 62.381 877.631 $0,858 4.267 1.167 .100 .145 .087 .658 .187 1.458 .125 1.208 .639 10.899 $0,594 .937 .646 .480 .497 .509 .790 .518 1.050 .346 .557 .615 .745 69.23 21.95 55.38 48fi 00 342.86 585.37 m oo 27fi 92 72.00 276.92 46.15 9a 18 67.167 216.667 54.167 6.667 4.167 10.833 21.666 43.333 14.167 28.333 16.667 43.750 43.750 .297 .501 .369 .558 .605 .692 .692 .432 .529 .529 .450 1.142 .625 .417 .375 .167 .500 .417 .625 .417 .250 1.667 .062 .333 3.417 .375 .229 .167 .276 .639 16.305 1.029 .750 .577 .519 .231 .626 .375 .581 .577 .692 .480 .446 .461 .794 .519 .317 .267 .381 .615 .561 89.33 27.69 110.77 899.96 1,439.88 553.86 27a 93 13a 46 423.52 211.77 359.99 137.14 50.000 43.333 43.333 43.333 47.917 66.667 64.583 43.333 21.667 208.333 8:333 43.333 258.333 43.333 43.333 37.500 43.333 62.381 1,743.712 .333 1.808 .333 .062 .042 .125 .250 .312 .125 .250 .125 .833 .750 98.008 110.404 158.915 113.788 230.247 1.010 1.069 1.314 1.033 2.147 .619 .581 .496 .545 .559 43.333 12.500 12.500 25.000 16.667 20*833 25.000 66.667 .350 .167 .135 .375 .167 .250 .208 .250 .125 .125 .117 .639 2.908 .485 .802 .648 .900 .601 .720 .499 .225 .225 .600 .562 .615 .508 9.481 .539 33.333 12.500 12.500 62.381 343.214 1,054.576 137.14 120.00 13a 46 13a 46 138.46 125.22 90.00 92.90 13a 46 27a 92 2a 80 720.03 13a 46 23.23 138.46 138.46 160.00 13a 46 96.18 138.46 480.00 480.00 240.00 359.99 28a 00 240.00 90.00 180.00 480.00 480.00 96.18 1 These are purchased, The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 9. 17 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D IS T R IC T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 9 .— Men’s Goodyear welt, tan, full quarter bals., perforated tip stitched aloft, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Department and operation. . Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Throw back to bins, pick out lasts, and put up work___ Tack insoles............................................................................. Chalk lasts............................................................................... Wet uppers.............................................................................. Assemble for pull-over machine.......................................... Pull over, machine................................................................. Side last, machine.................................................................. Operate bed machine............................................................. Cobble..........: ........................................................................... Crown....................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total ..................................................................—___ 37.500 37.500 5.833 83.333 108.333 108.333 265.000 23.333 106.667 62.381 $0,417 .417 .083 .083 1.333 1.500 1.500 3.750 .279 1.396 .639 $0,667 .667 .854 1.494 .960 .831 .831 .849 .717 .785 .615 841.546 11.397 .813 16.667 25.000 .333 1.199 .417 .500 2.083 .583 1.001 3.333 16ft 00 io a 00 1,028.63 1,800.18 72.00 55.38 55.38 22.64 257.15 5 a 25 96.18 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes...................... Staple uppers............... Pull upper tacks......... Goodyear welt............. Trim inseams.............. Pull insole tacks.......... Butt welts.................... Tack welts.................... Beat welts................... . Tack shanks................ Fill bottoms................. Cement bottoms......... Lasing soles................. Rough round.............. . Nail heel seats............ . Round heel seats......... Goodyear stitch........... Level............................ . Heel, one nailing_____ Trim heels.................... Trim edges.................. . Knife up (joint)........... Pull lasts, hand........... Return lasts to picker. Inspect.......................... General work............... Organization............... . Total................. . 33.333 106.667 25.000 20.833 16.667 20.833 20.833 20.833 25.000 12.500 .333 .375 .375 .417 .250 .333 .900 1.172 1.399 .959 1.350 1.080 1.201 .720 .799 .998 1.049 20.833 20.833 21.667 21.667 62.381 .208 .583 1.083 .500 .250 2.292 .417 1.167 .750 2.625 .583 .417 .083 .283 .275 .639 1,068.630 18.154 1.018 20.833 41.667 75.000 54.167 19.167 19.167 54.167 .375 .750 1.583 33.333 54.167 29.167 33.333 126.667 43.333 52.083 41.667 130.000 33.333 1.200 1.029 .450 1.086 .577 1.344 1.080 359.99 240.00 180.00 5 a 25 240.00 28a 00 359.99 28a 00 28a 00 28a 00 240.00 480.00 180.00 110.77 205.71 18a 00 47.37 13a 46 115.20 144.00 1.211 4a 15 1.049 i8 a oo 28a 00 28a 00 276.92 276.92 9 a 18 1.201 .239 .784 .762 .615 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts............................................. Scour heels, first time.-.............................. Set edges, first time.................................... Set edges, second time................................ Scour fine heels............................................ Ink heels........................................................ Expedite........................................................ Naumkeag shank........................................ Return rack to last puller.......................... Buff forepart................................................. Gum bottoms............................................... Gum dry, brush.......................................... W ax............................................................... Stamp on bottoms....................................... Organization................................................. Total............................................ . 8.333 43.333 27.083 66.667 37.500 12.600 62.381 .500 .250 .146 .639 1.080 1.080 1.266 1.108 .717 .523 .761 .495 .598 .831 .647 .450 .400 .701 .615 575.298 7.576 .790 33.333 1.000 .229 .167 .687 .275 .083 .600 .292 28a 00 144.00 s a oo 110.77 313.04 313.04 110.77 180.00 720.03 13a 46 221.54 90.00 160.00 480.00 9 a 18 18 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —C ontinued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 9 .— Men's Goodyear welt, tan, full quarter bals., perforated tip stitched aloft, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Feel for tacks, line-in......... ............. Tree, hand.......................................... Brush, power..................................... Lace..................................................... Repair........ ......................................... Pack, and stencil cartons................ Inspect, emboss, and general work. Label................................................... Ship, and general work- ................. Organization...................................... 29.167 218.333 87.500 29.167 87.500 43.750 43.333 40.000 86. 667 62.381 $0,229 2.500 1.167 .229 .667 .312 .350 .225 .700 .639 Total......................................... 727.798 7.018 Grand total.............................. 6,889.191 80.830 E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 0 .— 205.71 27.48 68.57 205.71 68.57 137.14 138.46 150.00 69.23 96.18 .578 V . .704 Men's Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. G ive out stock................................................................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand................................... Throat................................................................................ M atch marks -— ....................................................«........ Skive and trim .................................................................. Skive tops, vamps, and tip s............................................ Skive................ ...... ........................................................... Perforate............................................................................ Punch tips......................................................................... Assem ble-......... —......... .................................................. General work.......................... - ........................................ Block cut trimmings......................................................... Cut leather, linings, and stays, hand......................... .... Mark linings......................... - .......................................... Skive trimmings____________ ___________ __________ Checking________________ _________________________ Organization....................... ......................... ................... Tntftl_____ STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Check-in.....................................................—................... Cement tongue lin in g s..........................................- ........ Stitch tongue linings.............. .......................................... Make linings.................. ......... ......................................... Seam linings.................... ................................................. Rub seams...........—........................................................... Seam quarters. - ............................................................... Rub seam s....................... ............................................... Stitch anchor backstays................................................... Trim out under backstays................................................ Cement quarters.............................................................. Fold quarters.................................................................... Eyelet stays...................... .............................................. Sort and match up............ .............................................. Turn bals.......................................................................... Undertrim......................................................................... Eyelet................................................................................ Double tops......... ............................................................ Stain and sort................................................... ................ Double tips....................................................................... Double vamps................................................................... Stitch tips.......................................................................... Stitch boxes....................................................................... Stitch toe linings............................................................... Lace...................... ......................... .................................. Sort v am ps........................................... ........................ . M atch up for vampers...... .......... .... ..... ..... . . . . ______ $0,471 .687 .800 .471 .457 .428 .485 .338 .485 .615 33.333 64.167 50.000 83.333 66.667 50.000 25.000 37.500 41.667 25.000 50.000 37.500 91*667 87.500 62.500 75.000 37.500 75.000 $0,493 8.542 .285 .946 .358 .290 .342 .372 .307 .210 .426 .224 .862 .821 .438 .482 .224 L 275 $0,887 .848 .342 .681 .322 .348 .821 .595 .442 .504 .511 .358 .564 .563 .420 .386 .358 1.020 1,533.334 16.897 .661 6.250 33.333 62.500 83.333 33.333 20.833 33.333 20.833 126.000 20.833 20.833 62.500 12.500 8.333 83.333 125.000 33.333 29.167 41.667 33.333 33.333 62.500 62.500 41.667 25.000 20.833 6.250 .025 .310 .479 .600 .310 .178 .366 .178 1.097 .160 .178 .488 .178 .031 .600 1.097 .310 .184 .281 .253 .366 .563 .525 .253 .178 .103 .025 .240 .558 .460 .432 .558 .513 .659 .513 .527 .461 .513 .468 .854 .223 .432 .527 .558 .379 .405 .455 .659 .540 .504 .364 .427 .297 .240 180.00 9.93 120.00 72.00 90.00 120.00 240.00 160.00 144.00 240.00 12a 00 160.00 65.45 68.57 96.00 80.00 160.00 80.00 960.00 180.00 96.00 72.00 m oo 288.00 180.00 288.00 48.00 288.00 288.00 96.00 480.00 720.00 72.00 48.00 180.00 205.71 144.00 180.00 180.00 96.00 96.00 144.00 240.00 288.00 960.00 19 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 10. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 0 .— Men’s Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost cost of 100 pairs Labor (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Vamp................................................................................. Count, inspect, and check-out......................................... Day labor.......................................................................... Organization...................................................................... 260.000 50.000 300.000 37.600 $3,131 .354 2.250 .700 $0,751 .425 .450 1.120 Total........................................................................ 1,779.103 15.751 .531 ========== SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: C u t....... ................................................................... Grade......................................................................... Sort and case.............................................................. 41.667 25.000 41.667 Total_. . . . __ ___ . . . . . . _______- ______________ Insoles: C ut....... ..................................................................... Grade......................................................................... Sort and case.............................................................. Total ........... „ __ P ownt-or-S leather 1 . Box tops, leather 1 , , R eds: B uild.......................................................................... Tack rands.................................................................. Cut off rands............................... ...... ........................ Compress.................................................................... Cut top pieces. .......................................................... Tnt.fl.1 __________________________ Stock fitting: Round outsoles......................................................... Stamp and shank outsoles......................................... Stamp insoles................................... ........................ Flex outsoles............................................................... Wet and cement outsoles....... .................................. Channel insoles......................................................... Cement insoles.......................................................... Set lip, insoles.................. ........................................ Lay cloth insoles.............................. ......................... Trim Gem and Johnson insoles................................. Crown insoles............................................................. Assemble. .................................................................. Check and miscellaneous........................................... Organization....................................... ...................... Total______________________________________ Total, sole leather department __________ 2100 120.00 20.00 160.00 * .514 .357 .595 .740 .857 .857 108.334 1.466 .812 41.667 16.667 25.000 .482 .175 .262 .694 .630 .629 83.334 .919 .662 158.915 113.788 1.314 1.033 . 495 .545 66.667 75.000 41.667 29.167 41.667 .592 .630 .221 .334 .390 .533 .504 .318 .687 .562 254.168 2.167 .512 33.333 20.833 12.500 41.687 41.667 37.500 16.667 16.667 41.667 25.000 20.833 37.500 37.500 37.500 .342 .178 .118 .221 .288 .450 .083 .125 .221 .310 .144 .341 .259 .608 .616 .513 .568 .318 .386 .720 .299 .450 .318 .744 .415 .546 .414 .973 144.00 240.00 14100 144.00 359.99 240.00 90.00 80.00 144.00 205. 71 144.00 = = = = = 420.834 3.871 .552 1,139.373 10.770 .567 83.333 41.667 175.000 116.667 250.000 387.500 166.667 37.500 .740 .532 2.042 1.563 3.000 A 225 2.200 .546 .533 .766 .700 .804 .720 .654 .792 .874 1,258.334 14.848 .708 180.00 288.00 480.00 144.00 144.00 160.00 359.99 359.99 14100 240.00 288.00 160.00 160.00 160.00 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Pick lasts and day labor................................................... Trim and nail insoles........................ .............................. Assemble for pull-over machine...................................... Pull over, machine........................................................... Side last............................................................................. Operate bed machine.................................. ............... . D ay labor.......................................................................... Organization...................... ......................... ........... ......... Total 72.00 14100 34.29 51.43 24.00 15.48 36.00 160.00 i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 20 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D DISTRICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 10.—Men’ s Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs (minutes). of 100 pairs. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Staple......................................................................................... Pull tacks................................................................................. Trim vamps.............................. ............................................. Goodyear welt......................................................................... Knock out insole tacks.......................................................... Pull toe wires.......................................................................... Butt welts............................................................; ................. Trim inseams.......................................................................... Beat welts................................................................................ Tack shanks and butts.......................................................... Fill bottoms___ ...................................................................... Cement bottoms........ ............................................................ Lay soles................................................................................... Nail heel seats......................................................................... Rough round........................................................................... Turn up channels................................................................... Round heel seats..................................................................... Goodyear stitch....................................................................... Cement channels.................................................................... Joint.......................................................................................... Turn down channels.............................................................. Prick stitches.......................................................................... Level......................................................................................... Nail base.................................................................................. Put in rubber heel.................................................................. Nail, machine.......................................................................... Shave heels................................................- ............................ Breast heels.............................................................................. Trim edges............................................................................... Day labor................................................................................. Organization----------------------------------------- ---------------------Total............ ................................................................. Hourly wages. 29.167 49.483 21.351 125.000 27.745 29.955 25.633 41.667 * 33.333 50.000 28.108 13.558 41.667 20.833 83.333 13.438 11.562 208.333 20.833 50.000 29.167 50.000 41.667 41.667 83.333 29.167 62.500 45.833 166.667 450.000 37.500 $0,272 .565 .244 2.475 .235 .254 .218 .435 .327 .413 .272 .131 .545 .263 1.200 .218 .188 2.925 .169 .490 .188 .545 .545 .708 1.088 .563 .900 .619 3.075 3.880 .608 $0,560 .685 .686 1.188 .508 .509 .510 .626 .589 .496 .581 .580 .785 .757 .864 .973 .976 .842 .487 .588 .387 .654 .785 1.020 .783 1.158 .864 .810 1.107 .517 .973 1,962.500 — — 24.558 .751 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 205.71 121.25 281.02 48.00 216.26 200.30 234.07 144.00 180.00 120.00 213.46 442.54 144.00 288.00 72.00 446.50 518.94 2a 80 28a 00 120.00 205.71 120.00 144.00 144.00 72.00 205.71 96.00 130.91 36.00 13.33 160.00 ------------------ - FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels................................................................................ Set edges................................................................................... Scour heel breasts..................................................... ........... Gum heel breasts.................................................................... Smooth rubber heels............................................................. Black heels............................................................................... Expedite heels........ ................................................................ Scour top pieces...................................................................... Scour bottoms......................................... ............................... Dust bottoms........................................................................... Bleach bottoms...................................................................... Wet bottoms............................................................................ Gum bottoms........................ ................................................. Black top pieces and bottoms.............................................. Stripe......................................................................................... Polish foreparts....................................................................... Fake shanks and clean slugs................................................ Wheel shanks........................................................................... Wheel upsides......................................................................... Clean rubber heels.......................... . ..................................... Pull lasts.................................................................................. Organization..........- .......... ................................................... 5a ooo 166.667 20.833 12.500 41.667 1&667 62.500 41.667 83.333 12.500 12.500 41.667 41.667 41.667 20.833 29.167 70.833 25.000 70.833 12.500 33.333 37.500 .713 3.075 .180 .163 .281 .150 .788 .394 1.065 .058 .058 .625 .625 .553 .225 .450 .863 .360 .653 .118 .450 .487 .856 1.107 .518 .782 .405 .540 .756 .567 .767 .278 .278 .900 .900 .796 .648 .926 .731 .864 .553 .566 .810 .779 Total............................................................................... 945.834 12.334 .782 29.167 29.167 33.333 562.500 66.667 70.833 . 62.500 66.667 37.500 187.500 .207 .225 .225 5.830 .394 .431 .394 .431 .274 1.295 .426 .463 .405 .622 .355 .365 .378 .388 .438 120.00 3a oo 28a 00 480.00 144.00 359.99 9a 00 144.00 72.00 480.00 480.00 144.00 144.00 144.00 28a 00 205.71 84.71 240.00 84.71 480.00 ♦ moo 160.00 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Feel for and cut tacks............................................................ Stamp shanks and bottoms.................................................. Emboss..............................- ..................................................... Tree, hand................................................................................ Line and put in heel pads..................................................... Dress......................................................................................... Lace........................................................................................... Brush......................................................................................... Crown....................................................................................... Repair....................................................................................... .414 205.71 205.71 180.00 10.67 90.00 84.71 oa 00 90.00 160.00 32.00 21 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 13. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 0 .— Men’s Goodyear welt, lace oxford, leather lining, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Label.................................................................................. Stencil cartons_________ _____________ ____ _________ Sort shoes and stick tags.................................................. Insert and pack shoes in cartons...................................... Floor work_____________________________ _______ ___ Stamp and nail cases......................................................... Ship__ ______________ ______________________________ Organization__ ______ __ ____ __ __ ____ ________ ____ T otal___________ - ............................ ................... Grand total -r E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 8 .— $0,215 .216 .197 .450 .197 .738 .487 .608 $0,387 .389 .315 .432 .315 .394 .779 .973 180.00 180.00 160.00 96.00 160.00 53.33 160.00 160.00 1,537.500 12.814 .500 _______ 10,156.038 107.972 .638 33.333 33.333 37.500 62.500 37.500 112.500 37.500 37.500 Women’s McKay, circular vamp, 6 inches high, quarter polish, tip and tongue, sole and tap, leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Put up jobs for cutter............................................................ Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand............... ...................... Cut linings, hand................................................................... Mark sizes................................................................................ Stamp linings........................................................................... Skive tips................................................................................ General work........................................................................... Organization............................................................................ 16.875 467.000 30.0 00 25.0 00 23.0 00 19.000 6 7.500 16.875 $0,438 7 .7 8 0 .585 .2 6 0 .1 6 8 .49 1 .4 3 7 1.1 7 0 .6 2 4 .5 2 2 .5 3 1 .4 3 6 1.5 5 4 Total.............................................................................. 665.250 10.359 .9 3 4 147.000 42,0 00 4 1 ,0 00 4 5 ,0 0 0 60.0 00 65.0 00 130.000 .5 5 9 .5 9 3 .4 8 7 .4 8 4 .5 0 0 .4 6 2 .5 6 5 .5 0 1 .5 8 5 .5 6 0 Sort and tie.............................................................................. Organization.......................................................................... .. 60.0 00 6 0.000 190.000 42.0 00 4 7 .0 00 67.5 00 1 .370 .4 1 5 .3 3 3 .3 6 3 .5 0 0 .5 0 0 1 .225 .8 3 5 .5 8 5 .5 6 0 2 .7 5 0 .2 7 8 .4 1 5 .7 8 8 Total............................................................................... 1 ,0 9 6 .5 0 0 10.917 .5 9 7 84. I l l 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .8 9 2 1 .069 1 .314 1.033 3 .2 5 3 .6 3 7 .5 8 1 .4 9 6 .5 4 5 .4 6 1 80.0 00 1.4 1 0 .3 0 0 1.0 5 8 .9 0 0 T o t a l ____________________________________________________ 20.000 100.000 1.7 1 0 1.0 2 6 T o t a l , so le -le a th e r d e p a r t m e n t . 990.397 9 .2 7 1 .5 6 2 .200 $1,557 1.000 355 .56 12.85 200.00 240 .00 260 .87 315.79 8 8 .8 9 355.56 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Make linings............................................................................ Gum side s t a y s ....................................................................................... Close.......................................................................................... Stay................................................................ - ......................... Close on.................................................................................... Turn........................................- ................................................ Stitch tops................................................................................ Stitch tips................................................................................ Close toes................................................................................. Eyelet....................................................................................... Vamp ............................................................................................................ 100.000 .868 .3 9 7 .5 3 0 .7 0 0 4 0 .8 2 142.86 146.34 133.33 100.00 9 2 .3 1 4 6 .1 5 6 0 .0 0 100.00 100.00 3 1 .5 8 142.86 127.66 8 8 .8 9 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather __ _______ ______________ _________ Insoles, leather1_________________________________________ __ Counters, leather1___________________ _______________________ B o x to e s , le a t h e r * H e e ls , le a th e r, 8 /8 1 _ - T - T Stock fitting: Fit outsoles....................................................................................... Fit insoles.......................................................................................... 7 5 .0 0 300 .00 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several represen* tative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 22 t im e a n d la bo r co sts— n e w En g l a n d d is t r ic t . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS I N T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued. NEW E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . E N G L A N D B I S T R I C T — C ontinued. 18.—Women’s M cKay, circular vamp, 6 inches high, quarter polish, tip and tongue, sole and top, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Put up lasts....... ..... Pull over, hand___ Operate niggerhead. Organization............ 33.750 290.000 125.000 33.750 $0,163 4.590 2.250 .500 $0,290 .950 1.080 .889 Total________ 482.500 7.503 .933 74.000 120.000 72.000 91.000 42.000 29.000 40.000 74.000 16.875 .700 1.250 .660 1.720 .630 .320 .278 L050 .469 .568 .625 .550 L 134 .900 .662 .417 .851 1.668 558.875 7.077 .760 Scour heels............................................................... Set edges................................................................... . Burnish heels................... ....................................... B u f f ......................................................................... . Finish bottoms......................................................... Naumkeag................................................................ . Pull forms.............................. ................................... Organization.........................................................— 70.000 60.000 58.000 78.000 81.000 28.000 31.000 16.875 .700 1.050 .700 1.000 1.500 .350 .200 .469 .600 1.650 .724 .769 1.111 .750 .387 1.668 T o ta l.......................... .................................. 422.875 5.969 8.47 31.000 74.000 58.000 28.000 14.000 80.000 33.750 31.000 33.750 33.750 .450 .600 .900 .335 .135 .600 .269 .450 .213 .625 .871 .486 .931 .718 .579 .450 .478 .871 .379 1. Ill 177.78 20.60 48.00 177.78 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Lay soles— M cKay sew.. Beat out____ Heel............... Shave heels.. Breast heels.. Relast............ Trim edges... Organization. Total— 81.08 50.00 83.33 65.93 142.86 206.90 150.00 81.08 355.56 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 85.71 100.00 103.45 76.92 74.07 214.29 193.55 355.56 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENTS. Clean uppers.... ....................................... - ............... Dress...........................................................—.......... Iron, hand.—.....................- ..................... ............... Lace................- ------------- ------------- ------- -------------Brush up--------- ----------- ----------- ----------------------Line-in____ _________________________ _________ Inspect________________________ ____ _________ Pack............. ................................. ........................... Ship.......................................................................... Organization__________________ ______ _________ Total___________ _____________ _________ 417.250 4.577 .658 Grand total____________________________ _ 4,633.647 55.673 .721 E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 5 .—Men’s 193.55 81.08 103.45 214.29 428,57 75.00 177.78 193.56 177.78 177.78 McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap, leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Sort leather.......................... .............................. . Pick up jobs for cutters.................................... . Cut vamps, top tips, and tongues, machine Cut back stays, hand....................................... inspect cut parts............... — .......................... . Case up cut parts_______ ________ _______ _ Sort upper leather remnants_______________ Cut eyelet facings, hand_________ _________ Cut leather top facings, hand______________ Skive eyelet facings............................................ Sort and case eyelet facings__________ _____ _ Case heel stays.................................................... Cut cloth linings, machine............................... Case cloth linings................................... .......... Cut vamp doublers, machine___ . . . . . . . . ___ 15.000 4.400 325.000 50.000 33.000 25.000 32.600 42.000 14.000 5.800 14.700 6.600 2.500 11.000 1.100 $0,158 .053 4.460 .330 .417 .125 .250 .292 .110 .046 .077 .041 .034 .080 .015 $0,632 .723 .823 .396 .758 .300 .460 .417 ;471 .476 .314 .373 .816 .436 .818 m oo 1,363.64 18.40 120.00 181.82 240.00 184.05 142.85 428.57 1,034.48 408.16 909.09 2,400.00 545.45 5,454.55 23 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 15. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923. B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. NEW E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 5 — M e n ’ s E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT— concluded. Case vamp doublers............................................................... Cut top doublers, machine................................................... Case top doublers........ ........................................................... Cut vamp patches................................................................. Cut felt heel pads, machine................................................. Sort felt heel pads................................................................... Stamp lining............................................................................ Match up linings................................................................... Mark vamps for tips.............................................................. Mark tops for vamp laps....................................................... Perforate lace row................................................................... Skive tips................................................................................. Punch tips................................................................................ Skive vamps at cut off.......................................................... Perforate vamps..................................................................... Skive vamps at heel and throat.......................................... Skive tongues.......................................................................... Skive tops narrow at back and bottom............................. Skive tops for folding............................................................. Organization................................................. - ........................ 3.000 1.900 3.600 .600 .400 2.400 11.700 28.000 15.000 9.200 54.500 10.000 20.000 10.000 53.500 20.000 2.770 23.800 21.700 21.820 $0,023 .026 .027 .009 . .005 .019 .083 .146 .083 .053 .167 .063 .083 .063 .333 .125 .023 .177 .167 .340 $0,460 .821 .450 1.080 .750 .475 .426 .313 .332 .346 .184 .378 .249 .378 .373 .375 .498 .446 .462 .935 Total.............................................................................. 896.490 8.503 .569 Stitch cloth heel stays............................................................ Stitch eyelet facings............................................................... Stitch top facings.................................................................... Stitch lace row perforation................................................... Paste vamp patch................................................................... Double vamps........................................ ................................ Double tops............................................................................. Stitch tips............ ................................................................... Close vamps............................................................................ Stay vamps.............................................................................. Close tops................................................................................. Rub down back seams.......................................................... Cement tops for folding........................................................ Fold tops, machine................................................................ Paste eyelet stays................................................................... Stitch backstays.................................................................... Stitch tops (undertrim)......................................................... Eyelet invisible eyelet.......................................................... Stain edges............................................................................... Lace, machine, 4-hole........................................................... Lace, machine, 1-hole.......... ................................................. *Seam linings at toes.............................. ............................... Vamp 2-needle space row ..................................................... Size out uppers........................................................................ Cripple and general work...... ............................................... Organization........ .................. .................... ........................ 60.000 100.500 40.000 83.333 23.500 42.800 25.700 44.000 25.800 25.800 42.000 10.800 17.500 55.000 42.800 86. 750 204.000 28.000 21.700 20.800 18.400 39.200 323.000 18.400 133.333 21.820 .333 .585 .209 .522 .115 .208 .125 .292 .167 .167 .219 .063 .115 .345 .209 .543 1.417 .282 .125 .125 .115 .250 2.910 .104 .833 .260 .333 .349 .314 .376 .294 .292 .292 .398 .388 .388 .313 .350 .394 .376 .293 .376 .417 .604 .346 .361 .375 .383 .541 .339 .375 .715 Total....................................................................... 1,554.936 10.638 .411 .900 .400 .500 33.540 10.000 16.770 1.210 2.600 6.880 1.730 11.985 4.240 .008 .006 .004 .400 .080 .210 .011 .019 .073 .016 .053 .074 .533 .900 .480 .716 .480 .751 .545 .438 .637 .555 .265 1.047 90.755 .954 .646 2,000.00 3,157.89 1,666.67 12,000.00 15,000.00 2,500.00 512.82 214.29 400.00 652.17 110.09 600.00 300.00 600.00 112.15 300.00 2,166.07 252.10 276.50 274.98 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. 100.00 59.70 150.00 72.00 255.32 140.19 233.46 136.36 232.56 232.56 142.86 555. 55 342.86 109.09 140.19 69.16 29.41 214.29 276.50 288.46 326.09 153.06 18.58 326.09 45.00 274.98 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsolos: Sort stock........................................................................ Pile near machine............. .............................................. Pile on machine.................................... .......................... Cut................................................................................... Grade and skive............................................................... Sort..................................................................................... Count............................ .................................................... Put away........................................................................... Case........ - ................. ............................ .......................... Ship.............................................. ................................... . General work.................................................................... Organization.................................................................... Total_____ _____________________________ _ 6,666.67 15,000.00 12,000.00 178.89 600.00 357.78 4,958.68 2,307.69 872.09 3,468.21 500.63 1,415.07 24 T IM E A N D LABOR. COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T A N D OPERATION— Continued. NEW E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .— E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. Men's McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— continued. Insoles: C u t................................. _.............. ................................... ___ Grade and skive Sort_____________________ _____ __________________ Put away___________ _____________________________ Case__ ________________________ ________ _________ Ship.................................................................................... .... . _ Gfinpral workOrganization_____________________________________ 31.900 10.190 14.710 1.440 5.090 1.730 11.935 4.520 $0,365 .068 .185 .015 .048 .015 .052 .063 $0,687 .400 .755 .625 .566 .520 .260 .836 81.505 .811 .597 Taps: Cut_____________________________________ _________ Grade________ __ ________ ___ : __________ _ Butt______________________________________________ Sort and put away_ _ _ _ __ Case___ : ______ A ________________________________ Ship ____ Organization______________________________________ 28.880 10.080 6.250 10.000 6.150 .450 1.373 .290 .083 .050 .100 .055 .004 .021 .603 .494 .480 .600 .537 .533 .918 Total....................................................................... 63.183 .603 .573 28.880 8.000 8.660 4.000 4.600 2.450 3.760 2a 000 4.810 .200 3.400 .450 3.965 5.600 .292 .070 .090 .035 .040 .023 .034 .180 .045 .002 .034 .004 .038 .128 .607 .525 .624 .525 .522 .563 .543 .540 .561 .600 .600 .533 .575 1.371 98.775 1.015 .617 1.480 4.060 2.640 3.560 .410 1.000, .015 .045 .022 .033 .003 .017 .608 .665 .500 .556 .439 1.020 13.150 .135 .616 50.000 134.510 6.500 7.210 23.280 6.750 10.000 3.070 7.420 3.110 3.640 .860 23.070 5.550 .261 1.125 .045 .051 .220 .038 .063 .030 .062 .029 .034 .007 .177 .079 .313 .502 .415 .424 .567 .338 .378 .586 .501 .559 .560 .488 .460 .854 284.970 2.221 .468 Total______ _________________ _____ ________ Counters: Cut_______________________________________________ __ Grade and skive Sort flat__________________________________________ Skive_____________________________________________ Trim finds Tamper "Roll Mold Sort molded ___ _ _ ___ ________ _ Put away _ ___ Case____ Ship _____ _ _ _ ______ _ General work____________________ ________________ Organization _ __ ...... Total.............................. ............................................... Box toes: C u t___ Skive Sort........................................................................ ......... Case................................................................ ................. Ship _ Organization __ ____________ __ _ _ _ Total............................................................................... Heels (log method and rands): Make rands (cut, grade, crimp, etc.)______________ Make logs (cut lifts, build logs, etc.)_______________ Saw log blanks____________ ______ _____ __________ Gouge log blanks Tack rands_______________________________________ Butt rands Compress heels Buff heels_________ ______ ________ _______________ Sort heels ^ Case heels Case rubber top lift __ . Ship heel and top lift_____ General work OrganizationTotal _. __ __________ . _ _ ______________ _ ___ _ _ 188.09 588.81 407.89 4,16a 67 1,178.78 3,468.21 500.63 1,327.41 207.76 595.24 960.00 600.00 975.61 13,333.33 4,369.99 207.76 750.00 692.84 1,500.00 1,304.35 2,448.97 1,595.74 300.00 1,247.40 30,000.00 1,764.71 13,333.33 1,513.24 1,071.43 4,054.05 1,477.83 2,272.73 1,685.39. 14,634.15 6,000.00 120.00 44.61 923.07 832.18 257.73 888.88 600.00 1,954.40 808.63 1,929.26 1,648.35 6,976.75 260. G8 1,081.08 25 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 15. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .—Men’s KcKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— concluded. Stock fitting: Round insoles.................................................................. Mold insoles..................................................................... Inspect and check out insoles....................................... Welt outsoles................................... : .............................. Case outsoles and taps................................. *............... Stamp sizes and case number, outsoles....................... Roll outsoles..................................................................... Round outsoles................................................................ Channel outsoles............................................................. Stitch top to outsole....................................................... Trim taps......................................................................... Gouge outsoles................................................................. Tack shanks..................................................................... Mold outsoles................................................................... Paraffin outsoles.............................................................. Welt channels.................................................................. Turn channels.................................................................. Stain edges........................................................................ Inspect and cheek out outsoles..................................... General work................................................................... Organization..................................................................... 14.300 7.500 6.000 10.000 6.000 6.000 6.000 22.800 16.800 48.000 22.800 11.670 16.700 13.450 6.000 3.330 15.700 10.000 12.000 3.965 3.240 $0,115 .052 .042 .063 .042 .042 .042 .198 .146 .324 .167 .063 .125 .094 .042 .021 .146 .083 .083 .038 .074 $0,483 .416 .420 .378 .420 .420 .420 .521 .521 .405 .439 .324 .449 .419 .420 .378 .558 .498 .415 .575 1.370 Total 262.255 2.002 .458 Total, sole-leather department____ ________ ___ _ 894.653 7.741 .519 Case lasts................................................................................. Throw lasts (in bins)............................................................ Case up work.......................................................................... Tack insoles............................................................................. Assemble................................................................................. Pull over, machine, and put in box toes..................... . Side last, machine................................................................. Operate bed machine............................................................. Pull tacks, insoles................................................................... Pound toes............................................................................... Tack outsoles.......................................................................... Pull lasts.................................................................................. Organization............................................................................ 18.000 23.400 19.500 40.000 68.750 92.000 100.000 195.000 10.800 22.500 42.500 38.000 21.820 .125 .146 .136 .250 .480 .959 .959 2.000 .125 .292 .418 .260 .417 .374 .418 .375 .419 .625 .575 .615 .694 .779 .590 .526 .715 Total.......... .................................................................. 692.270 6.483 .562 21.850 64.200 32.000 24.000 24.000 31.500 28.800 34.300 34.300 28.000 30.000 20.900 100.000 21.820 .135 .667 .167 .115 .125 .198 .250 .418 .167 .250 .313 .167 1.000 .340 .371 .623 .313 .288 .313 .377 .521 .731 .292 .536 .626 .501 .600 .935 494.770 4.312 .523 419.58 800.00 1,000.00 600.00 1,000.00 1,000.00 1,000.00 263.16 357.14 125.00 263.16 514.14 359.28 446.10 1,000.00 1,801.80 382.17 600.00 500.00 1,513.24 1,851.85 LASTING DEPARTMENT. .333 333.33 256.41 307.69 150.00 87.27 65.22 60.00 30.77 555.55 266.67 141.18 157.89 274.98 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Loose nail heel seat...................................................... ......... McKay sew ............................................................................ Cement channels.................................................................... Wet channels........................................................................... Lay channels........................................................................... Wheel edges............................................................................. Level......................................................................................... Heeling (off last)..................................................................... Help heeler................................ _•............................................ Shave heels.............................................................................. Breast heels.............................................................................. Trim edges......... .......................... .......................................... Organization.......................................................... ................ Total___ . ___ , __ ^ _____ ______ - ____ 274.60 93.46 187.50 250.00 25a 00 190.48 208.33 174.93 174.93 214.29 200.00 300.00 60.00 274.98 26 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTR ICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E O F 100 PAIRS OF SHOES I N 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION--Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 5 .— Men’s McKay, tan bal., perforated vamp and eyelet row, straight tip, sole with tap, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels, first time....................................................... Set edges (once)................................................................. Scour heels, second tim e...........- ..................................... Stain heels— ........................................ .................... . Burnish heels........................ - ............ ......................... Scour bottom s................................................................... Dust ofF and girm _ __ _ Paint bottom s.................................................................. ftnin and brush bottoms ...... Wan bottom s........................ ......................... _............ . Cut lacing strings.............................................................. P*pll lasts ^ .... . _ .TT. . __ Wheel bottoms and breasts.............................................. Brand bottoms.................... —...................................... General work___ __________________________________ Organization— ............................................. .................. Total $0,292 .709 .115 .104 .281 .673 .188 .261 .333 .167 .104 .261 .104 .115 .125 .110 $0,474 .626 .418 .357 .482 .721 .521 .470 .520 .445 .374 .420 .374 .414 .417 .605 462.070 3.942 .512 32.000 10.000 24.000 178.000 65.000 75.900 33.330 30.000 25.900 1L 700 3.330 .167 .050 .136 1.540 .584 .542 .208 .208 .167 .083 .028 .178 .125 .110 .313 .300 .340 .519 .539 .428 .374 .416 .387 .426 .505 .534 . 538.070 4.126 .460 , 5,533.259 45.745 37.000 68.000 16.500 17.500 35.000 56.00021.650 33.300 38.400 22.500 16.670 37.300 16.670 16.670 18.000 10.910 162.16 88.24 363.64 342.86 171.43 107.14 277.14 180.18 156.25 266.67 359.93 160 86 359.93 359.93 333.33 549.95 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Inspect for tacfcs........ ..................................................... Sock fining.......... ............... - ..................................... ...... Paste bed pad.................................................................. Tree, hand........ ................ ......................... .................... Repair tan leather_______ ________________________ Dress............................................. ........... ......... ......... . Lace.....................— ....................................................... Brush heels and edges____________________ ________ _ Pack................................... - ................ ............................ Seal fiber cases...................... —............................................ Stamp fiber cases............... —........................ ..................... Ship................ ........................................... ...................... General work......... ............................... ........... ........... ...... Organization.............. ........... ........................... ................. T otal............ ........ ........................ .............. ................ Grand total _ .. . E ste& U sh m ew t N o . 1 8 .— T 20.000 18.000 10.910 .4 1 7 : .605 187.50 600.00 250.00 33.71 92.31 79.05 180.02 200.00 231.66 512.82 1,801.80 800.00 333.33 549.95 1L 51 .496 Women’s Goodyear welt, 8 " polish, black kid, f-fold vamp, stitched tip fold, Mack finish, 8/8-leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand................. .................... Cut linings, hand............... .................. ................................ Cut trimmings, hand............................................................ Dink trimmings.................. ................................................... Skive quarters, uppers, tips, and backstays..................... Stamp linings. Perforate tips........................................................................... Sweep__________________ —.................................................. Organization........ ................„.................................................. Total _ __________ 776.669 57.383 82.598 30.000 145.000 45.609 21.000 12.796 102.370 $14.670 .850 1.060 .300 1.840 .380 .240 .066 1.706 $1.134 .889 .770 .600 .761 .500 .686 .309 1.000 1,273.416 21.112 .995 24.000 235.997 105.000 90.000 31.000 45.000 147.000 38.667 45.000 65.000 .240 2.360 .950 .480 .340 .270 .960 .290 .270 .270 .600 .600 .543 ..320 .658 .360 .392 .450 .360 .249 7.73 104.58 72.64 200.00 4L38 131.58 285.71 468.90 58.61 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Press vamps, machine........................................................... Press quarters, tips, and backstays................. ......... ......... Close backs, quarters, side, and back up Close side stays (zig-zag)................................. .................... Close linings...... ..................................................................... Close top facings............................................... .......... .......... Stay seams................................................................................ Rub seams...................... ........................................................ Line vamps.............................................................................. Tape vamps..................................................................— 250.00 25.43 57.14 66.67 193.55 133.33 40.82 155.17 133.33 92.31 27 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 18. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G 2 jAN J> D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 8 .—Women's Goodyear welt, 8" polish, black kid, f-fold vamp, stitched tip fold, black finish, 8/8-leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded. Cement side stays.......................................................... Cement toe pieces.................................................................. Make linings .......................................................................................... Close toe....... ........................................................................... Black edges—........................................................................... Eyelet........................................................................................ Stitch tongue linings.............................................................. Stitch tips................................................................................ Stitch backstays..... ....................................-.................. Stitch tops..................................................................... Vamp...................................... ...................................... $0,535 .270 .600 .756 .544 .600 .397 .811 .600 .578 .700 .514 .514 .375 .350 .833 Pack........................................................................ — Odd shoe work____ ___________________________________ Organization............................................................................ 55.000 000 172.003 50.000 43. 000 81.000 62.000 57.000 108.001 271.000 370.286 35.000 35.000 36.800 102.370 102.370 $0,490 .270 1.720 .630 .390 .810 .410 .770 1.080 2.610 4.320 .300 .300 .230 .597 1.422 Total............................................................................... 2,467.494 22.779 84.111 lia404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .498 .545 .461 24.000 7.000 28.000 3h 750 51.185 12.798 51.185 .270 .110 .110 .880 .270 .700 .420 .420 .130 .045 .180 .320 .070 .300 .410 .379 .066 .948 .736 .660 .733 1.173 .377 .560 .494 .663 .279 .450 .675 .800 .600 .643 .800 .444 .309 547. 916 6.028 .660 1,438.313 13.589 .567 31.000 860.000 270.000 12.798 17.062 .430 10.890 3.870 .052 .379 .832 .760 .860 .244 1.333 1,190.858 15.621 .787 57.000 43.000 58.000 136.000 44.000 66.858 .390 .270 .720 2.920 .390 .780 .411 .377 .745 1.288 .532 .700 .554 ; 109.09 100.00 34.88 120.00 139.53 74.08 96.77 105.26 55.56 22.14 16.20 171.43 171.43 163.04 58.61 58.61 2.43 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather* _ ____ _ _ _ _ _ _ Insoles, leather* _ _ ___ Counters, leather!. .. . . . _ Box toes, leather! _ ______ . _ ...... Heels, leather, 8/81 ....... ................. - ___________________ Stock fitting: Round insoles.......................................................... Cut toes, insoles...................................................... Stamp insoles.................................................................. Channel and knife insoles........................................ Cement insoles.................................................. ...... Set lips insoles.................................................................. Form insoles..................................................................... Trim insoles__________________ ________________ Count, sort, and tie-up insoles...................................... Wet outsoles................................................................... Skive and roll outsoles...................... ........................ Round outsoles.............................. ................... ..... Stamp outsoles........... ............................................ Shank outsoles________________________ _____ _ Forepart..-........... ............................................... .......... Odd shoe work.......... ............................. ........................ Sweep............................................. .... .................. Organization........................................................... Total_____________________________________ Total, sole-leather department. . . . . _ 22.000 10.000 9.000 45.000 43.000 75.000 51.000 38.000 28.000 6. GOO m ooo 1. I l l 272.73 600.00 666.67 133.33 139.53 80.00 117.65 157.89 214.29 1000.00 375.00 250.00 857.14 214.29 185.12 117.22 468.90 117. 22 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Put up lasts.........................................- ....................... Pull over, hand.............. - .......................................... . Operate bed machine.................................................... Operate elevator................................................................... Organization— ................. - .............................................. . Total ___ 193.55 6.98 22.22 468.80 351.66 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim uppers, machine.............................................. ............ Staple................ .................—......... ...................................... Pull side tacks, machine.............................................. ......... Goodyear welt....................................................................... . Pull bottom tacks, machine........ ......................................... Trim inseams, machine....................................................... 1 These are purchased. sentative establishm ents. 105.26 139.53 103.45 44.12 136.36 89.74 The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre See p p . 132-140. 28 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women’s Goodyear welt, 8* polish, black kid, Hold vamp, stitched tip fold, black finish, 8/8-leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 8 .— Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded.* Tack, butt, and slash............................................................ Beat welts................................................................................ Fill bottoms.................... ...................................................... Cement shoes.......................................................................... Lay soles................................................................................... Tack heel seats........................................................................ Rough round........................................................................... Turn channels......................................................................... Reduce shanks......................................................................... Goodyear stitch....................................................................... Cement channels.................................................................... Lay channels.................., ....................................................... Level......................................................................................... Break shanks........................................................................... Loose nailing............................................................................ Nail rubber heels.................................................................... Nail heels................................................................................ Shave heels............................................................................... Breast heels...................... ...................................................... Trim edges............................................................................... General work........................................................................... Operate elevators.................................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................ 110.000 35.143 46.000 27.000 45.000 11.143 78.000 26.000 30.857 148.000 18.857 33.000 60.000 27.000 43.000 105.000 85.000 63.000 32.000 170.000 51.185 12.796 12.796 17.062 $1,040 .410 .450 .320 .700 .130 1.300 .320 .360 3.240 .220 .300 1.230 .450 .450 1.900 1.430 1.530 .530 4.090 .436 .052 .066 .379 $0,567 .700 .587 .711 .933 .700 1.000 .738 .700 1.3^3 .700 .545 1.230 1.000 .628 1.086 1.009 1.457 .994 1.443 .511 .244 .309 1.333 Total............................................................................... 1,692.697 26.803 .950 45.000 115.988 115.988 235.000 35.000 35.000 116.000 70.000 54.400 105.000 90.000 30.000 80.000 12.796 17.062 .580 1.590 1.590 4.030 .630 .740 1.590 .970 .680 1.600 1.350 .180 .630 .052 .379 .773 .823 .823 1.029 1.080 1.269 .822 .831 .750 .914 .900 .360 .473 .244 1.333 1,157.234 16.591 .860 303.750 4.050 .430 .380 .430 .650 1.120 1.200 .379 .066 .052 L573 .800 .379 .750 .469 .650 .480 .480 Sweep........................................................................................ Operate elevators.............................................................. . Organization........................ ............................... .................. 30.400 55.000 60.000 140.000 150.000 51.185 12.796 12.796 102.370 .309 .244 .922 Total............................................................................... 986.297 10.330 •628 10,206.309 126.825 .746 54.55 170.74 130.43 222.22 133.33 538.46 76.92 230.77 194.45 40.54 318.19 181.82 100.00 222.22 139.53 57.14 70.59 95.24 187.50 35.29 117.22 468.90 468.90 351.66 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts........................................................................... Scour heels, first time................................. .......................... Scour heels, second time....................................................... Set edges.................................................................................. Slick, first and third times..................................................... Slick, second time.................................................................. Finish heels.................... ......... ............................................. Buff............................................................................................ Naumkeag..................................................*............................ Finish bottoms........................................................................ Clean......................................................................................... Brush edges.................. .......................................................... Pull lasts.................................................................................. Operate elevators.................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total___ _ ... ril. 133.33 51.73 51.73 25.53 171.43 171.43 51.72 85.71 110.30 57.14 66.67 200.00 75.00 468.90 351.66 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Tree, hand............................................................................... Line-in...................................................................................... Buff insoles.............................................................................. Dress......................................................................................... Repair....................................................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Grand total_______ _ TTr___ 68.000 .444 19.75 88.24 197.37 109.09 100.00 42.86 4a 00 117.22 468.90 468.90 58.61 29 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 20. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R ICT , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . £0—Women’s McKay, patent leather, one-strap, side seam pump, stitch imitation binding all around, single sole, 1% .leather heel with rubber top lift. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Put up stock for cutters.................................................... Cut outsides, hand........................................................... Cut linings, hand.............................................................. Cut trimmings, hand....................................................... Dink sock linings.............................................................. Skive vamp line................................................................ Mark and stamp............................................................... Organization...................................................................... 30.000 416.667 41.667 250.000 11. I ll 25.000 27.778 120.000 Total........................................................................ 922.223 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. $0,444 7.500 .625 2.778 .183 .250 .208 1.556 13.544 ========= $0,888 1.080 .900 .667 .988 .600 .449 .778 .881 300.000 30.000 33.333 166.667 41.667 194.444 250.000 266.667 30.000 30.000 33.333 30.000 30.000 27.778 30.000 30.000 30.000 30.000 60.000 120.000 1.083 .250 .361 1.500 .278 3.056 5.083 5.583 .417 .444 .250 .208 .208 .250 .167 .167 .208 .178 .400 1.444 .217 .500 .650 .540 .400 .943 1.220 1.256 .834 .888 .450 .416 .416 .540 .334 .334 .416 .356 .400 .722 1,763.889 21. 535 .733 Outsnles, leather l Insoles, leather1___________________________________ OoUTitfirs, leather l . Box toes, leather1__________ _______________________ Heels, leather, women’s, 8/81_______________________ 84.111 110.404 158.915 113. 788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .545 .461 Stock fitting: Wet soles, roll, and skive....... .................................... Round......................................................................... Channel and stamp.................................................... Shank out................................................................... Flesh........................................................................... Put in shanks............................................................. M o ld ......................................................................... Mark case number on outsoles.................................. Turn channels............................................................ Stain edges.................................................................. Wax............................................................................ Dink insoles................................................................ Slash insoles ............................................................... Cement insoles........................................................... Put in boxes.............................................................. Mark insoles............ .................................................. General work.............. w.............................................. Organization............................................................... 11. I ll 19.444 25.000 13.889 16.667 13.889 15.000 2.778 18.750 13.889 13.889 16.667 a 333 8.333 19.444 5.556 30.000 30.000 .208 .300 .419 .250 .250 .139 .192 .017 .283 .111 .111 .333 .139 .069 .222 .056 .167 .500 1.123 .926 1.006 1.080 .900 .600 .768 .367 .906 .480 .480 1.199 1.001 .497 .685 .605 .334 1.000 Press vamp line.......... ..................................................... Close vamps...................................................................... Stay vamps....................................................................... Make linings..................................................................... Rub seams.......................................................... —........... Vamp................................................................................ Stitch bindings, vamps, and quarters............................ Pump stitch (including hold stay).................................. Make buttonholes............................................................. Sew on buttons................................................................. Button............................................................................... Trim buttonholes............................................................. Line vamps....................................................................... Iron vamp stays................ ............................................... Cement button stays........................................................ Cement stiffeners.............................................................. Pack................................................................................... Floor work........................................................................ Odd shoe work.................................................................. Organization...................................................................... Total _ _____ 200.00 14.40 144.00 24.00 540.01 240.00 216.00 50.00 20.00 200.00 180.00 36.00 144.00 30.86 24.00 22.50 200.00 .200.00 180.00 200.00 200.00 216.00 200.00 200.00 200.00 200.00 100.00 50.00 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total_____________ 1__________________ ____ Total, sole-leather department _. i These are purchased. sentative establishm ents. . __ 282.639 3.766 | .799 1,173.036 11.327 | .579 T he average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre See p p . 132-140. 84791°— 24t----- 3 . 540.01 308.58 240.00 432.00 360.00 432.00 400.00 2,159.83 320.00 432.00 432.00 359.99 720.03 720.03 308.58 1,079.91 200.00 200.00 SO TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT. TIM E A N D LA BO R COSTS IN T H E M ANUFACTURE OF KM BAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T, A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —C ontinued. JSfe. «9.—Women's M cK ay, patent leather, one-strap, side seam pump, stitch imitation binding all around, single sole, 1 % leather heel with rubber top Mffc—Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs (minutes). of 160 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. 41.667 27.778 188.889 100.000 300.000 60:000 27.778 27.778 100.00 30.656 41.667 30.000 30.000 $0,250 .250 21444 1.500 4.375 .667 .250 .167 1.472 .417 .167 .200 .556 $0360 .540 .776 .900 .875 .667 .540 .361 .883 .819 .240 .400 1.112 1,006.113 12.715 .758 Nail heel seat........ M cKay sew______ Line-in................... Cement channels-. Beat out..........— . Heel................... .... Slug heels________ Relast. ..........— Shave heels.......... . Breast heels______ Trim edges---------Sw eep--................ Organization_____ 16.667 100.000 60000 30000 75.000 60000 16.667 30000 41.667 30 000 136. Ill 30000 30000 .319 2.060 .600 .278 1.600 1.250 .319 .481 1.028 .489 2.333 .200 .500 1.148 1.200 .600 .556 1.280 1.250 1.148 .962 1.480 .978 1.028 .400 1.000 Total--------- 656.112 11.397 1.042 50.000 22.222 150.000 97.222 60000 30 COO 75.000 55.556 75.000 22.222 97.222 30000 30 000 $0,981 .342 2.625 1.469 1.000 .400 .800 1.000 1.078 .542 2.531 .178 .500 $1.177 .923 L 050 .907 1.000 .800 .640 1.080 .862 1.463 1.562 .350 1.000 794.444 13.446 1.016 333.333 500000 60000 60000 22.222 13.889 250000 13.389 30000 60000 7.000 5.833 .500 .333 .167 .194 2.500 .139 .256 .694 1.260 .700 .500 .333 .451 .838 .600 .600 .512 .694 Pick lasts....................................... Wet toes...... .................................. Assemble for pull-over machine. PtLff over, machine ...................... Operate niggerhead-----------------Pound up....................................... Buff patent tip............................. Putin filler................................... Lay soles; nail toes...................~ Pull la s ts ..................................... Take out tacks In pumps.........._ Odd shoe work.......................... 11Organization.................... ............ Total....... ........................... . 144,00 210 ©0 31.7$ 60.09 20.00 160.00 216.00 216.00 60.06 196.36 1* K 00 200. CO 200.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. 360.00 60.00 100.00 20009 80.00 100.00 36009 209.09 144.00 200.09 44.08 200.00 200.00 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels, first time................................. Scour breasts, first tiinfe............................. Set edges........................................................ Scour heels and slick, second time........... Buff........................................... ..................... Naumkeag.................................................... Black and stain bottoms_______________ Roll bottoms............................. .................. Burnish heels............................................... Pull lasts....................................................... Clean............................................................. General work................... .......................... . Organization__________________ _________ Total____________ ______ _____ 120.00 270.00 40 00 61.71 100.09 200 69 8009 108.09 80.0Q 27000 61.71 200.00 200.00 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Iron, band..........., ................... - ............................. Repair....................................................................... linet-in.............. ................... ................................. . Button-................................. - ..................... ........... Brush bottoms-................. — ................... ........... Stamp cartons............................ ........................... Pack...................- ............... .......... ......................... Nail cases............. ........................ ......................... Ship......................................................................... . Organization...... .................... ................. ............. Total............................................................. . 1,343.333 17.616 .787 Grand total............... .......... ........................ _ 7,659.150 101.580 .796 18.00 12.00 100.00 100.00 270.00 432.00 24.00 432.00 200.00 160.00 ESTABLISHMENT HO. 2L. 31 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 1 .—Men's Goodyear welt, tan calf, blucher oxford, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift. Time cost Labor cost of 100pairs of 100pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. 22.727 Stock-room work....................................................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine 584.848 22.727 Sort___ 1______________ 1_______________________ Mart matches __. . _ 30.303 Mark vamps ___ _ _ . _ _ 3.030 Skive____ 121.212 Cut cloth linings, machine. _ _ _ 45.455 6.061 Cut block trimmings_____________________________ 30.303 Case-up cloth linings_____________________________ Crimp*facmgs. ~ ... .. . . 7.576 Crimp uppers, . . _ 19.697 Punch tips. . __.. T_ _ _ _ _ 7.576 Assemble ... „„r _ _ . 7.576 43.636 Organization................................................................ 952.727 Total.................................................................... STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Cheek_____ . _. _ ___ .. . _ 3.030 Give ont. work and odd jobs _ _ 27.273 7.576 Sort tops_______________________________________ Cement tops for folders.... . ... . T. 15.152 78.788 Fold............................................................................... Double top. __. 56.061 Double trimmings . . . . ...... 27.273 Seam tops*. . .. _ .. . 37.879 Mark eyelet rows. .. . ......._ . 44.642 Stitch eyelet rows, 43.750 Hook 66.664 Stitch hack stays. 116.667 Stamp linings. 15.152 Seam linings. . . ._ . 71.212 36.364 Paste hook stays.__________ _____ ________________ 37.500 Stitch top facings.___________ _____ ______________ Paste top to linings ___ 30.303 Turn hals. . . . . _ 83.333 _ _ _ _ _ ........ _ _ TTndeirtrim ...... . . 128.788 Dyelet __ _. ___. 29.545 Lace . ...... ...... . . . . . . . . . . . ........ 21.212 13.636 Seam toe lining._________________________________ Trim hook stays. _ _ _ 38.889 16.667 Trim back stays.________________________________ Trim hlneher lining. ......... 27.777 Line tongues 57. 576 Liue tips _ „r . ...... _ ._ 33.333 Stiteh tips, first row ___ 37.879 42.424 Stitch tips, box rows_____________________________ Sort, vamps __ _ _ 19.697 33. 330 Seam vamps and foxings__________________________ Stitch blind stays 33.330 Double vamps _ ....... _ _. 43.939 Perforate vamps 50.000 Trim under perforations . 50.009 Stitch hlneher tongues ._ _ 69.444 Vamp ......... . . . __ 244. 656 Trim tongues ........... _ ._ 19.697 Brace hlneher vamps .............. 27.779 Stain edges . ... _ 14.788 Check . . . _ _ _ _ _ 7.576 43.636 | Organization........ .............................. ......................... Total.................................................................... L, 904.117 iI SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. 9$. 008 Outsoles1................................ _............................................... Insoles: Cnt Sort . ..._ _____ _ __ _. Case.................................................................._........ Total................................................ .......... .................... Counters, leather 1 ■Roy toes, leather 1 . __ _ _ . ....... 45.455 45.455 33.333 124.243 158.915 i1 113.788 | $0,322 7.895 .307 .155 .017 1.182 .563 .037 .173 .060 .163 .045 .054 .500 11.478 .021 .303 .103 .178 .680 .366 .155 .396 .208 .492 1.158 .972 .160 .505 .262 .310 .441 .510 1.134 .394 .197 .115 .184 .131 .159 .665 .253 .487 .487 .111 .310 .281 .253 .562 .236 .731 3. 201' .094 .225 .076 .070 . 650 18.286 1.010 .568 .464 .340 1.372 1.314 1.033 Hourly wages. $0,850 .810 .810 .307 .337 .585 .750 .366 .343 .475 .497 .356 .428 .688 .723 .416 .667 .816 .665 .518 .392 .341 .627 .280 .675 1.042 .500 .634 .426 .432 .496 .873 .367 .528 .800 .557 .506 .284 .472 .343 .693 .455 .771 . 6S9 .338 .558 .500 .345 .674 .283 .632 .800 .286 .486 .308 .554 .894 .576 .619 .750 .612 .612 .663 .496 .545 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 264.00 10.26 264.00 198.00 1, 980.00 49.50 132.00 989.94 198.00 791.97 304.61 791.97 791.97 137.50 1, 980.00 220.00 791.97 395.99 76.15 107.02 220.00 158.40 134.40 137.14 90.09 51.43 395.99 84.26 165.00 160.00 198.00 72.00 46.59 293.08 232.-86 440.01 154. 29 359.99 216.01 104. 21 180.00 158.40 141. 42. 304. 61 180.02 180.02 136.55 120.00 120.00 86.40 24.53 30161 215.99 405.73 791.97 137.50 m oo 132.00 180.09 1 These are purchased. T h e average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishm ents. See p p . 122-140. TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT. 32 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 21 .—Men’s Goodyear welt, tan calf, blueher oxford, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Heels: • Tack heels (hnilders) _ __ _ _ _ Tack rands Compress heels Seour heels (leather) _ ficnnr heels (rubber) __ _ Lump Total............................................... ........................ Stock fitting: (live nnt. work _ _ ____ Channel .... . Turn lips Cut cloth __ _ Set lips __ _______ ___ Johnson trim__ Lump _ Tie u p_____ _ ____ _ __ Organization __ _ Total........................................................................ Total, sole-leather department _ _ LASTING DEPARTMENT. (live out work __ ___ Aasemhle leather heels _ _____ Aasemhle mhher heels . A.ssemhle solas and counters _ _. Pick lasts ..... . . 36.000 24.212 6.061 Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. $0,750 .413 .485 .337 .339 .416 .501 166.67 247.50 989.94 282.86 440.01 495.01 113.272 $0,450 .167 .049 .119 .077 .084 .946 30.303 34.848 7.576 13.636 45.455 36.364 22.727 10.606 43.636 .374 .450 .048 .070 .314 .251 .170 .058 650 .741 .775 .380 .308 .414 .414 .449 .328 .894 198.00 172.18 791.97 440.01 132.00 165.00 264.00 565.72 137.50 245.151 853.377 2.385 8.060 .584 .567 7.576 15.152 15.152 9.091 30.303 10.606 40.909 6.061 137.879 87.879 84.848 243.939 121.212 .059 .085 .095 .081 .356 .077 .427 .032 1.775 1.725 1.708 4.875 1.250 .467 .337 .376 .535 .705 .436 .626 .317 .772 1.178 1.208 1.199 .619 43.636 .450 .619 Total______________ : _____ ______________ BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim uppers . r ___ Pull tacks Staple _ 854.243 12.995 .913 21. 212 37.879 Goodyear welt___________________________________ Trim seams___________________________________________ Beat welts____________________________________________ 98.485 45.455 30.303 57.576 60.606 15.152 19.682 38.374 22.727 75.758 159.091 21.758 20.255 28.788 45.230 32.142 .244 .490 .272 2.250 .435 .272 .718 .546 .131 .131 .544 .292 1.125 2.625 .218 .169 .303 .490 .375 .188 .188 .188 .217 .284 .942 1.242 .900 .412 3.075 .490 .450 20.206 .690 .776 .769 1.371 .574 .539 .748 .541 .519 .400 .850 .771 .891 .990 .600 .500 .632 .650 .700 .532 .621 .827 .639 .450 1.250 1.447 1.150 Push racks__________________________ • _________________ Tack and trim insoles _ _ ___T Mark off work________________________________________ Assemble for pull-over machine.................... ..................... Poll over, machine _ ...... „ Side last, machine _ _ ________ Operate bed machines___ _ _ r Crown Organization ___ _ _ - T.. „ Knock insole tacks and butt welts _ _, „ nr. Fill bottoms and tack'shanks _ __ Cement bottoms * _ _ r .. r. Cement soles. _ __ __ Lay soles .. . ____ ,, Nail heel seats____________ ___ _r Rough round Goodyear stitch _ _ _ Trim heel seats. T .. ........ Cement channels. _ _ _ _ __ Cobble _ _ _ _ ___________ _ _ Level _ ___ __ _ Wheel stitches __ .. _ ____ _ _______ _ Rub down channels Open channels Double clinch Rub white stitches _ _ Cement heels Heel, leather bases __ _ Heel, rubber ___ _ _ _ Shave heels _ . Breast heels Trim edges._ ___T .... . _ r_. Joint (knife up) _ ___ i _______ Organization....................................._____________________ Total________________________________________ 21.212 13.636 12.121 21.212 21.212 18.182 13.636 20.370 37.879 45.238 51.515 46.970 24.242 163.636 31.818 43.636 1,370.019 1.120 1.128 .924 .619 .885 791.97 395.99 395.99 659.99 198.00 565.72 146.67 989.94 43.52 68.28 70.71 24.60 49.50 137.50 282.86 158.40 282.86 60.92 132.00 198.00 104.21 99.00 395.99 304.85 156.36 264.00 79.20 37.71 275.76 296.22 208.42 132.66 186.67 282.86 330.00 440.01 294.70 158.40 132.63 116.47 127.74 247.50 36.67 ' 188.57 137.50 ESTABLISHMENT NO, 22, 33 T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPA RTM E N T, AN D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 1 .—Men's Goodyear welt, tan calf, blucher oxford, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Set edges................................................................................... Scour breasts............................................................................ Scour heels............................................................................... Black heels............................................................................... Expedite heels........................................................................ Scour bottoms......................................................................... Bleach bottoms....................................................................... Paint or stain bottoms.......................................................... Gum bottoms.......................................................................... Stripe........................................................................................ Wax or roll bottoms.............................................................. Wheel breasts......................................................................... Pull lasts.................................................................................. Clean and rub heels............................................................... Stain breasts............................................................................ Check........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................ Total _________ . . . _ _ _ . _ 168.182 24.242 40.909 $3,075 61.818 93.939 48.758 36.364 60.606 25.758 31.818 16.667 30. 752 25. 758 15.152 7.105 43. 636 .712 .150 .691 1.065 .488 .545 .525 .262 .558 .180 .410 .131 .077 .032 .460 $1,097 .525 1.044 .339 .800 .680 .600 .899 .520 .610 1.052 .648 .800 .305 .305 .270 .633 742. 676 9.573 .773 .224 .2-14 6.205 .170 .227 .559 .625 .256 .356 .140 .419 .597 .315 .450 .634 .743 .585 .337 .360 .369 .450 .338 .641 .370 .360 ,394 .433 .619 1,267. 575 10.787 .511 7,846.726 90.375 .691 21.212 .212 35.68 247.50 146.67 282.86 115.79 63.87 123.06 165.00 99.00 232.94 188.57 359.99 195.11 232.94 395.99 844.48 137.50 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Stamp....................................................................................... Inspect for tacks..................................................................... Tree, hand.............................................................................. Put in sock linings................................................................. Brush vamps........................................................................... Dress and dope....................................................................... Repair russia........................................................................... Lace........................................................................................... Brush heels and edges............................................................ Stencil....................................................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Pack cases, nail, and strap............................................ . Ship........................................................................................... Organization---------------------------------------------- ------- ---------- Total Grand total _ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . ...... _ 21.212 19.697 636.364 30.303 37.879 90.909 83.333 45. 455 33.333 22. 727 68.182 90.909 43.636 43. 636 282.86 304.63 9.43 198.00 158.40 66.00 72.00 132.00 180.00 264.00 88.00 66.00 137. 50 137. 50 22.—Women’s Goodyear welt, lace, russia calf, polish boot, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Cut outsides, hand.................................... Cut trimmings, hand............................... Cut linings, hand....................................... S ta m p -..,................................................... Mark sizes........ ........ ................................. Skive uppers............................................... Skive toes.................................................... Perforate tips.............................................. Perforate vamps......................................... Assemble work........................................... Organization............................................. 600.000 180.000 36.000 15.000 $10,500 45.000 15.000 1.120 60.000 15.000 75.282 .165 .130 .640 .230 1.255 Total.................................................. 1,071.282 16.685 .934 65.000 30.000 115.000 .720 .260 1.240 .250 .660 .370 .450 .900 .375 .665 .520 .647 1.250 .660 .493 .338 .900 .750 20.000 10.000 1.200 1.190 .115 .140 $1.050 .400 1.983 .460 .420 1.493 .660 .780 .640 .920 1.000 10.00 33.33 166.67 400.00 300.00 133.33 400.00 600.00 100.00 400.00 79.70 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Black vamp, edges, etc............................... Close and tape linings.................................. Close tops and sta y s................................... Plug tips......................................................... Stitch tips....................................................... Mark eyelet rows......................................... Eyelet and stay................. ........................... Stitch side sta y s......................................... Close (qu arters)......,................................. 12.000 60.000 45.000 80.000 60.000 30.000 92.31 200.00 52.17 500.00 100.00 133.33 75.00 100.00 200.00 84 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT. TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D IS T H F C T -C o n tin u e d . E s ta b lis h m e n t No; W om ens Goodyearwelt, lace, russia calf, polish hoot, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel— Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourlywages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded. Floor work (girls) Organization____ 30.000 30.000 30.000 30.000 30.000 120.000 120.000 80.000 36.000 50.000 30.000 50.000 60.000 540.000 30.000 20.000 80.000 37.641 $0,250 .290 .440 .270 .360 11610 .740 2.250 .500 .700 .270 .580 .250 5.310 .270 .200 .540 1.046 $0,500 .580 .880 .540 .720 .805 .370 1.688 .833 .840 .540 .696 .250 .590 .540 .600 .405 1.667 Total.......... 1,900.641 21.101 .667 Outsoles, leather1................................................................... Insoles, leather1...................................................................... Counters, leather1........ ........................................................ Top piece, leather1................................................................ Box toes, leather1.................................................................. Heels, leather, 8 /8 1................................................................. 84.111 Ii0t404 158.915 55.330 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.311 .587 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .636 .545 .461 Stock fitting: Channel--...................—................................................. Round................................. - .......................................... Cut off and form in....................................................... . Trim, size, and tie.......................................................... Set lips..... ............ .......................................................... . Stamp, cut-off-mark splits........................................... . Skive.................................................................................. Cement— ....................................................................... . Knife................................................................................ . Shank out........................................................................ . Form toe lips, machine___________________________ Organization_____ _________________ _____________ _ 45.090 25.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 ~ 15.000 10.000 20.000 20.000 20.000 30.000 37.641 .670 .300 .430 .480 .560 .120 .200 .250 .150 .230 .250 .697 .893 .720 .645 .720 .840 .480 1.200 .750 .450 .690 .500 1.111 Total............................................................................. . 342.641 1337 1,288.368 12.485 .581 15.000 540.000 165.000 25.000 37.641 .400 10.800 3.880 .360 .697 1.600 1.200 1.411 .860 1. I l l 782.641 16.137 1-237 29.000 30.000 120.000 30.000 21000 45.000 .520 .750 2.700 .720 .330 .410 1.076 1.500 1.350 1.440 .825 .547 Close (sides)................ ........................... ............ Close (heels).—..................— ________ ________ Stay (quarters).............. ................................. — Stay: (sides)..........................- ................................. Stay (heels)........ ........... .......................... - ............ Press quarters...........................................—.......... Stitch b a c k s t a y s ............................................................... Stitch tops........................- ..................................... Eyelet.......................................- .............................. Line tongues— ...............—................................... Lace_........................................................................ Close toes................................................................ Cement vamp linings.......................................... Vamp............. .......................................................... 200.00 200.00 200.09 200.00 200.00 50.00 50.00 70 09 166.67 120.00 260.00 moo 100.00 11.11 200.00 300 00 75.00 15C. 40 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total, sole-leather department............... ................. . - 133.33 240.00 150 00 150.00 150.00 400.00 600.00 300.00 300 00 300.00 200 00 159.40 .759 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Put up work (for puller-over)............................................ . Pull over and side last, machine........... ............................ . Operate bed machine........... - ..................___...................... Trim uppers and wet soles................. .............................. . Organization........................ ............................... ................. . Total— — ___________ _________ - .......................... 40000 11.11 36.36 240.00 159.40 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim uppers and sweep.............................. Pull side tacks..................... ......... ............... Goodyear welt—............. —- __________ —, Trim inseams, machine____ ____ ______ _ Pull bottom taeks, machine___________ Butt and tack ends....................................... 206.90 200.00 50 08 20000 25000 130 33 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre* sent&tive establishments. See pp. 132-140. ESTABLISHMENT NO. 22. S5 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925, B Y DISTRICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . g g .—Women’s Goodyear welt, lace, russia calf, polish boot, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel— Concluded. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. bottoming department—concluded. Shave......................................................................................... Breast....................................................................................... Trim edges......................... ..................................................... Odd shoe work......................................................................... Sweep....... ................................................................................ Organization........................................................................ 24.000 30.000 45.000 15.000 60.000 45.000 15.000 135.000 36.000 54.000 45.000 18.000 27.000 15.000 30.000 36.000 45.000 30.000 345.000 37.641 75.282 37.641 $0,380 .250 .410 .190 .750 1.200 .300 3.300 .470 .760 .470 .250 .410 .250 .730 .460 .830 .390 3.630 .290 .260 .697 $0,950 .500 .547 .760 .750 1.600 1.200 1.467 .783 .844 .627 .833 .911 1.000 1.460 .767 1.107 .780 .631 .462 .207 L 111 Total............................................................................... 1,478.564 22.107 .898 18.000 36.000 120.000 51.o&o 45.000 45.000 45.000 75.000 135.000 30.000 36.000 30.000 37.641 70.000 37. 641 37. 641 .240 .490 2.790 .490 1.000 .750 .630 .960 1.130 .360 .580 .350 .260 .350 .230 .836 .800 .817 1.395 .576 1.333 1.000 .840 .768 .502 .720 .967 .700 .414 .300 .367 1.332 ....... 848.923 11.446 .809 Pull tacks and inspect......................................................... Lace......................................................................................... Line-in............ ........................................................................ Dress........ ................................................................................ Pack.......................................................................................... Repair....................................................... .......... ................... General work____ _____________________________ ______ Ship........................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ 36.000 75.000 45.000 300.000 150.000 240.000 112.923 37.641 37.641 .300 .320 .300 2.400 1.200 1.920 .948 .558 .697 .500 .256 .400 .480 .480 .480 .504 .889 1.111 Beat welts............ .......................................................- .......... Put in shanks.......................................... ................................ Fill bottoms............................................................................. Cement bottoms. ........................................... ....................... Lay soles............................ ..................................................... Rough round.................................................. ........................ Turn, channels. .................... ................................................. Goodyear stitch............................................... ...................... Cement and lay channels..................................................... Level............................................................... ........................ Pull lasts......................................................... ......................... Staple uppers............................................................ ............ Nail heel seats.................................................. ...................... Trim heel seats................................................................................... Heel........................................................................................... 250.00 200.00 133.33 400.00 100.00 133.33 400.00 44.44 166.67 111. 11 133.33 333.33 222.22 400.00 200.00 166.67 133.33 200.00 17.39 159.40 79.70 159.40 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts.................................. ........................... - .......... Scour heels, first time .......................................................... Set edges................ ...................... ........................................ Scour heels, second time................... ................................... Burnish heels................................................ ............ ........... Buff........................................................................................... Naumkeag............................................................................... Hard finish............................................................................ Clean...................................................................................... Pull lasts, and put away....................................................... Relast............ .................... ........................... .............. .......... Scour........................................................................................ Odd shoe work_____________________________ _________ Pound heels.......................................................................... Inspect.............................. ............................... ...................... Organization........................................................................... Total 333.33 166.67 50.00 117.65 133.33 133.33 133.33 80.00 44.44 200.00 166.67 200.00 159.40 85.71 159.40 159.40 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT.* Total________________ _________ .. . 1,034.205 8.643 .501 Grand t o t a l _________ . 8,404.624 108.606 .775 . ... _ a No treeing is done on this shoe. 166.67 80.00 133.33 20.00 40.00 25.00 53.13 159.40 159.40 ----- . 36 TIME AND LABOR COSTS-^-NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t No. £6—Women's Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp and eyelet row, circular vamp with tip, 10/8 rubber heel with leather top lift. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Prepare jobs for cutters............................................. ........... Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine................................. Cut linings, machine............................................................ Cut toe linings and doublers, machine.............................. Dink heel pieces, hand.......................................................... Mark uppers............................................................................ Skive......................................................................................... Perforate tips........................................................................... Perforate vamps..................................................................... Stamp linings.......................................................................... Assemble.................................................................................. Sweep........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................ 149.610 319.444 65.741 43.519 18.519 6.481 74.074 20.833 29.630 9.259 9.259 24.935 74.805 $1,216 5.500 .750 .562 .180 .038 .643 .229 .375 .053 .058 .142 .747 $0,488 1.033 .685 .761 .583 .352 .521 .660 .759 .343 .376 .342 .599 Total___________________________________________ 846.109 10.483 .743 41.667 76.852 18.056 62.500 22.222 58.796 79.074 23.148 59.722 55.556 60.185 64.815 27.778 113.426 26.852 13.889 27.778 57.870 18.519 26.852 134.259 43.056 54.000 11.574 49.870 24.935 274.285 .208 .542 .146 .521 .167 .583 .396 .229 .500 .174 .542 .500 .271 1.417 .168 .125 .125 .375 .167 .208 1.917 .375 .208 .125 .208 .142 2.455 .300 .423 .485 .500 .451 .595 .300 .594 .502 .188 .540 .463 .585 .750 .375 .540 .270 .389 .541 .465 .857 .523 .231 .648 .250 .342 .537 12.794 .503 40.10 18.78 91.27 137.87 323.99 925.78 81.00 288.00 202.50 648.02 648.02 240.62 sa 21 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Tape linings............................................................................ Stitch-on heel pieces.............................................................. Seam heel pieces..................................................................... Stitch toe linings..................................................................... Cement tops............................................................................ Fold tops................................................................................. Seam heels............................................................................... Stay heels............. ......................................... .......................... Line tongues............................................................................. Cement and fold tips............................................................ Stitch tips____ _______________________________________ Stitch eyelet rows................................................................... Cement eyelet stays............................................................... Stitch to p s.............................................................................. Eyelet....................................................................................... Lace........................................................................................... Cement vamps....................... ............................................... Fold vamps.............................................................................. Double vamps......................................................................... Reinforce vamps..................................................................... Vamp.................................... ................................................... Close toes....................................................... .......................... Cripple work......................... ................................................. Sweep......................................................1................................ Organization............................................................................ . _ 1,527.536 Outsoles: Cut...................................................................................... Grade................................................................................. Sort..................................................................................... 55.556 27.788 27.778 .579 .183 .289 .625 .395 .624 111. 112 1.051 .568 66.520 ia 519 .462 .135 .417 .437 85.039 .697 .421 15a 915 113.788 423.179 1.314 1.033 3.253 .496 .545 .461 T ota l 144.00 7a 07 332.30 95.99 270.00 102.05 75.88 259.20 100.46 108.00 99.70 92.57 215.99 52.90 223.45 431.99 216.00 103.68 323.99 223.45 44.69 139.36 111. 11 518.41 120.31 240.63 21.88 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. T ota l „ ...... __ ____________ Insoles: Cut..................................................................................— Stamp and case............................................................ . Total............................................................................... C o u n t e r s , le a t h e r t . _____ ___ __ Box to e s , le a t h e r 1 Reel43, le a th e r, w o m e n ’s, 8/81 ... ______ ______ _ _ _ ioaoo 215.99 215.99 90.20 323.99 i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. ESTABLISHMENT NO. 26, 37 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp and eyelet row, circular vamp with tip, 10/8 rubber heel with leather top lift—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 6 .— 1 Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Stock fitting: Split............................ ..................................................... Thin edges..................................................................... v Stamp soles....................................................................... Shank out................................................ ........................ Scour insoles..................................................................... Round insoles................................................................... Snip toes............................................................................ Channel insoles................................................................ Stitch channels................................................................ Cut and form gem cloths............................................... Trim gems................................................................I___ Staple butts...................................................................... Wipe toes........................................................................... Case up insoles................................................................. Sweep................................................................................ Organization..................................................................... Total___ 15.741 37.037 6.481 21.296 9.259 27.778 4.630 32.407 27.778 36.667 36.667 11. Ill 12.963 10.185 24.935 24.935 $0,109 .309 .020 .167 .056 .231 .013 .366 .159 .229 .229 .041 .067 .053 .142 .346 $0,415. .501 .185 .471 .363 .499 .168 .678 .343 .375 .375 .221 .310 .312 .342 .833 339.870 2.537 .448 Total, sole-leather department................................. 1,231.903 9.785 .477 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Pick lasts.................................................................................. Tack insoles............................................................................. Assemble for pull-over machine.......................................... Pull over, machine..........................................^..................... Side last, machine................................................................... Operate bed machine............................................................. Inspect...................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ 25.000 29.630 55.556 * 111. Ill 162.037 111. Ill 44.444 37.403 .208 .250 .750 1.350 1.688 2.167 .281 .606 .499 .506 .810 .729 .625 1.170 .379 .972 Total..................... ........................................................ 576.292 7.300 .760 40.741 63.889 36. Ill 58.333 179.111 16.667 25.000 19.444 8.333 11.I ll 25.000 13.889 17. 593 13.889 42. 593 12.963 30.556 20.370 17.593 20.833 14.815 107.407 18.519 25.000 166.667 16. 667 19.444 20.370 17.593 37.500 171.296 49.870 24.935 24.935 124.675 .250 .250 .229 .364 2.000 .122 .191 .203 .072 .046 .208 .072 .134 .072 .266 .050 .292 .127 .073 .109 .077 1.750 .116 .130 1.042 .087 .095 .212 .244 .312 1.784 .511 .139 .142 1.861 .368 .235 .380 .374 .670 .439 .458 .626 .518 .248 .499 .311 .457 .311 .375 .231 .573 .374 .249 .314 .312 .978 .376 .312 .375 .313 .293 .624 .832 .499 .625 .615 .334 .342 .896 1,513.712 13.632 . 540 381.17 162.00 925.78 281.74 648.02 215.99 1,295.88 185.14 215.99 163.64 163.64 540.00 462.86 589.10 240.62 240.62 240.00 202.50 108.00 54.00 37.03 54.00 135.00 160.41 B O T T O M IN G D E P A R T M E N T . Trim toes................................................................................. Pull tacks................................................................................. Staple............................................... ........................................ Pull wires................................................................................. Goodyear welt........................................................................ Knock out bottom tacks....................................................... Butt welts................................................................................ Trim inseams.......................................................................... Beat welts................................................................................ Shank.............. ....................................................................... Fill bottoms............................................................................. Cement bottoms..................................................................... Mold soles................................................... ............................ Cement soles......... ................................................................. Lay soles................................................................................... Staple soles............................................................................... Rough round.............................................. ........................... Nail heel seats......................................................................... Trim heel seats........................................................................ Round heel seats..................................................................... Turn channels......................................................................... Goodyear stitch....................................................................... Cement channels.................................................................... Lay channels........................................................................... Level..................................... ................................................... Reduce shanks......................................................................... Hammer shanks...................................................................... Shave heels............................................ .................................. Breastheels.............................................................................. Trim edges............................................................................... Cobble...................................................................................... Operate elevators.................................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................ Total. 147.27 93.91 166.15 102.86 33.50 359.99 240.00 308.58 720.03 540.01 240.00 432.00 341.04 432.00 140.87 462.86 196.36 294.55 341.04 288.00 404.99 55. 86 323. 99 240.00 36.00 359.99 308.58 294.55 341.04 1(H). 00 35.03 120.31 240.63 240.63 4S.13 38 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E Q F 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925. B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T M C T -C a n t in n e d . No. ^ . —Women's Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp and eyelet row, circular vamp with tip, 10/8 rubber with leather top lift—Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs oi 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Set edges................................................................................... Scour heels, first tim e ............................................. ............ Black heels........................................................- ..................... Burnish heels.......................... ..................................... .......... Bu ff-........................ ................................................................ Seour breasts, first time........ —..................................... — Scour heels, second time......................... .........................— Scour breasts, second time— ............... .................. ........... Scour rubber heels....................................- ..................... — Naumkeag shanks.................................. —............................ Black shanks............................................. —.......................... Wheel shanks..................................................- .......... - .......... Dust and bleach bottoms....... .....................- .......... .......... Stain bottoms......................... .................................. ............ Finish bottoms__ ________ __________ __ _____ ______ Pull lasts...................................................... ............... ............ General work.......................... - ................—.......................... Organization................................. ........................................... T ota l _________________________________________________ 203.704 44.000 27.778 55.556 41.667 13.889 55.000 19.352 22.222 41.667 41.667 55.553 27.778 55. 556 77.778 27.778 24.935 24.935 $2,476 .458 .212 .424 .500 .156 .458 .107 .212 .376 .318 .386 .193 .424 .810 .159 .108 .519 $0,729 .625 .458 .458 .720 .674 .500 .332 .572 .541 .458 .417 .417 .458 .625 .343 .260 1.249 860.818 8.296 .578 17. 778 25.926 138.889 61. Ill 60.185 45.833 27.778 41.667 18. 519 83.333 13.889 49.870 49.870 .059 .250 2.500 .318 .251 .229 .159 .296 .106 .434 .082 .213 .671 .199 .579 1.080 .312 .250 .300 .343 .418 .343 .312 .354 .256 .807 648.537 5.695 .527 7,204.907 67.985 .566 29.45 136.38 216,00 108.00 144.00 432.00 109.09 310.05 m oo 144.00 144.00 108. CO 216.00 108.00 77.14 216.00 240. as 240.63 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Feel tacks............................... .......................... ..................... Put in sock lining............. - ................... ................................ Tree,, hand...... ................... —................... — ......................... Repair............. ................... ................................ - ................... Dress................................... - ..............—.............................. Lace______ _____ _______ —---------- ------------------- ------_ ........ .......... Stamp bottoms. .................—................ Inspect......... .................................... ........... ........... —------Stamp cartons....................................................................... Pack............... .. ............... ............................... ................. Nail boxes. ............................................................................ Organization................................................................- ......... T ota l ____ _ _______________ Grand total........... ................... . ^ ____ 337.50 231.43 43.20 98.18 99.69 130.91 216.00 144.00 323.99 72.00 432.00 120.31 120.31 ..... 1 No. 2 7 .—Women’s McKay, dull calf, circular vamp, oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp and eyelet row with tip, white fairstitched sole, 10/8 leather heel with rubber top lift. E s ta b lis h m e n t CUTTING DEPARTMENT* Prepare jobs for cutters.................................—.........- .......... Cut vamps and whole shoe* machine........... ..................... Cut linings, machine_______ _______ — ............. ........... Cut sock lining and doublers, machine .......................... Dink heel pieces, hand........................ ............ ..................... Skive......................................................................................... Mark uppers....................... ............................ .................... Stamp linings................................................... ..........- .......... Perforate tips................... ...................... ........ .................. Perforate vamps___________ _________ ____________ ____ Assemble........................... ....................... *.............................. Sweep................ ..................... ........................ ................... Organization.. .................................... ................................ T o ta l __________ 240.000 207.407 71.296 21.296 18.519 55.558 7.407 9.259 20.833 38.889 9.259 40.000 120.000 $1.216 a 398 .750 .222 .180 .482 .044 .051 .229 .375 .058 .228 .747 $0,304 .983 .631 .625. .583* .521 .356 .330 .660 .579 .376 .342 .374 859.721 7.980 .557 41.667 64.815 18.056 62.500 22.222 .208 .458 .146 .521 .167 .300 .424 .485 .500 .451 25.00 28.93 84.16 281.74 323.99 108.00 810.04 648.02 288.00 154.29 618.02 150.00 50.00 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Tape linings.......................................... .................................. Stitch on heel pieces....... ......................i ______________ Seam heel pieces________ ______________ ____________ Stitch toe linings............... ................. .............. ........ ....... . Cement tops____ ______________________________ 144.60 9257 332.30 96.00 270.00 ESTABLISHMENT NO. 29. 39 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M AN U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. 27.— Women's M cKay, dull call, circular vamp, oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp and eyelet row with tip, white fairstitched sole, 10/8 leather heel with rubber top lift— Contd. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of ICOpairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Fold tops....................................................- ............................ Seam heels...... ............................................ - .......................... Stay heels................................................................................ Line tongues........................................................................... Cement and fold tips............................................................. Stitch tips.......... ..................................................................... Stitch eyelet rows............. ..................................................... Cement eyelet stays............................................................... Stitch top............................... ................................................. Eyelet.......... ............................................................................ Lace............................................ .............................................. Cement vamps........................................................................ Fold vamps............................................ ................................. Double vamps.............................................................. . ........ Reenforce vamps.................................................................... Vamp......................................................................................... Close toes.................................................................................. Cripple work.................................................... ...................... Sweep............................................. .......................................... Organization................................................................... ......... _____________ Total 58.790 26.852 23.148 59.722 41.667 60.185 64.815 27.778 113.426 26.852 13.889 27.778 57.870 18.519 26.852 134.259 43.056 61. I ll 11.574 80.000 40.000 400.000 $0,583 .396 .229 .500 .174 .542 « .500 .271 1.417 .168 .125 . '*'5 .375 .167 .208 1.917 .375 .208 .125 .333 .228 3.771 $0,595 .885 .594 .502 .251 .540 .463 .585 .750 .375 .540 .270 .389 .541 .465 .857 .523 .204 .648 .250 .342 .566 1,627.409 14.237 .525 55.556 27.778 27.778 .579 .183 .289 .625 .395 .624 111. 112 1.051 .568 68.520 18. 519 .462 1.350 .417 .437 102.05 223.45 259.20 100.47 144.00 99.69 92.57 216.00 52.90 223.45 432.00 216.00 103.68 323.99 223.45 44.69 139.35 98:18 518.40 75.00 150.00 15.00 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: C u t...................................... .............................................. Grade............................................................................ ..... Sort............. ................................................................. ..... Total___ _ _ _ Insoles: Cut..................................................................................... Stamp and case..................................................... ......... Total _ 85. 039 .597 .421 ___ Counters, leather1 _ _ Box toes, leather1_____________________________________ Heels, leather, 8/81 158. 915 113. 788 423.179 1.314 1.033 3.253 .496 .545 .461 Stock fitting: Roll and skive, outsoles...................... - ......................... Round outsoles. .............................................................. Channel.......................—........................ - ..................... Turn channel............................................................. ..... Mold.................................................................................. Feather edge..................................................................... Wet up............................................................................ Scour insoles............................ ..................................... Round insoles...................................................... - ______ Case and black soles....................................................... Thin edges............. —.......................................... ............ Sweep.................................................... ................... ......... Organization_______________________ — ..................... 4.630 27.778 37.037 37.037 27.778 37.037 4.630 9.259 18.519 27.778 29.630 40.000 40.000 .031 .236 .315 .231 .212 .309 .031 .056 .154 .077 .216 .228 .556 .402 .510 .510 .374 .458 .501 .402 .363 .499 .166 .437 .342 .834 341.113 2.652 .466 1,233.146 9.900 .482 Total __.lir_ . T o t a l , s o le -le a th e r d e p a r t m e n t _ . _ __ 108.00 216.00 216.00 90.20 323.99 - r~r"' 1,295.88 215.99 162.00 162.00 215.99 162.00 1,295.88 648.02 323.99 215.99 202.50 150.00 150,00 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. t i m e a n d l a b o r c o s ts — n e w 40 En g l a n d d is t r i c t . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN *923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D •OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women’s McKay, dull calf, circular vamp, oxford, five midget eyelets, perforated vamp and eyelet row with tip, white fairstitched sole, 10/8 leather heel with rubber top lift—Contd. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 7 .— Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. 18.519 32.870 75.926 111. Ill 108.333 161. Ill 39.815 20.370 64.815 58.897 44.444 100.000 $0,064 .115 .667 1.100 .865 1.175 .111 .057 .619 .461 .281 1.458 $0,207 .210 .527 .594 .479 .438 .167 .168 .573 .470 .379 .875 836.211 6.973 .500 13.889 32.870 87.963 22.222 28.704 45.089 36. I ll 55.556 26.852 29.630 43.519 164.815 40.000 40.000 40.000 .101 .115 .641 .069 .090 .361 .301 .530 .200 .360 .325 1.488 .228 .229 .722 .436 .210 .437 .186 .188 .480 .500 .572 .447 .729 .448 .542 .342 .344 1.083 707.220 5.760 .489 Scour heels, first time............................................................ Scour breasts.................................................................... ....... Scour heels, second time......................... ............ ................. Stain heels_____________ _________ ______________ _____ Finish heels.............. ....................................... ............. ....... Naumkeag................................................................................ Set edges................................................................................... Buff bottoms........................................................................... Brush bottoms and heels...................................................... Brush edges............................................................................. Black bottoms......................................................................... Finish bottoms....................................................................... Organization............................................................................ 40.741 27.778 40.741 27.778 50.926 25.000 78.704 33.333 15.741 52.778 16.667 62.037 40.000 .495 .207 .368 .251 .477 .260 .683 .347 .033 .110 .174 .582 .625 .729 .447 .542 .542 .562 .624 .521 .625 .126 .125 .626 .563 .938 Total___________________________________________ 512.224 4.612 .540 189.815 61. Ill 60.185 18.519 25.000 42.593 24.074 26.852 19.444 57.407 13.889 80.000 40.000 40.000 1.450 .318 .251 .154 .078 .177 .100 .084 .074 .239 .082 .213 .228 1.007 .458 .312 .250 .499 - .187 .249 .249 .188 ,228 .250 .354 .160 .342 1.511 Pick lasts.................................................................................. Tack insoles............................................................................. Assemble for pull-over machine............................................ Pull over, machine................................................................ Side last, machine................................................................. Operate bedmachine............................................................ Pull tacks.................................... .. ......................................... Insert bottom fillers (felt piece)........................................... Lay soles................................................................................... Cut strings and pull lasts. ................................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Organization............. - ............................................................ Total _ _ ____________________________________ 323.99 182.54 79.02 54.00 55.38 37.24 150.70 294.55 92.57 101.87 ’ 135.00 60.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Nail heel seats. ....................................................................... Trim heel seats........................................................................ McKay sew.............................................................................. Cement channels..................... ............................................. Sort out and wet channels................................................— Level....................................................................- ................... Case bases and spot rubber heels........................................ Heel................................................ .......................................... Breast....................................................................................... Shave heels............................................................................... Relast........................................................................................ Trim edges.......... .......... ..................................................... Sweep________________________________________________ Operate elevator........................................................ ........... Organization.......................... .............................................. . T n ta 1 - 432.00 182.54 68.21 270.00 209.03 133.07 166.15 108.00 223.45 202.50 137.87 36.40 150.00 150.00 150.00 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 147.27 216.00 147.27 216.00 117.82 240.00 76.24 180.00 381.17 113.68 359.99 96.72 150.00 TREEING.AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Tree, hand............................................................................... Repair....................................................................................... Dress......................................................................................... Pull lasts................... .*............................................................ Burn threads........................................................................... Put in sock linings.......................................... ........... .......... Sock linings, three-quarters___________________________ Lace.......................................................................................... Stamp cartons......................................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Nail boxes................. ........................................................ . Ship.......................................................................................... Sweep............................................................... .................. Organization.................................................... .......... ............ T o ta l Grand t o t a l _ _____ _______ _ __________ _ __ 698.889 4.455 6,474.819 53.917 31.61 98.18 99.69 323.99 240.00 140.87 249.23 223.45 308.58 104.52 432.00 . 75.00 150.00 15ft 00 .382 1 I..................... ---------------.500 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 29. 41 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923. B Y D ISTR IC T, D E PA RTM E N T, A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women’s McKay, mahogany oxford, imitation tip, Goodyear stitch, leather sole, leather counter, cork insole, leather heel with rubber top lift. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 9 .— Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Select upper stock.......................................................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine _ __ Sort, Paint, sizes Count, parts of uppers Cut vamp linings,'machine_________ _____________ Cut doth doublers, machine______________________ Cut tongues, machine_____ ______________________ Cut leather linings, machine ...... . Sweep and odd work _ . _ General work Stamp sizes. _ Skiveuppers....................................................... -......... Skive tongues __ ___ _____ . _ Perforate quarters__ _ _ __ Perforate vamps___________________________ _____ Perforate tips, "etc Organization ’ _ _ _ _ _ Total______ _____________ (*) 182.292 19.271 21.333 7.812 4.687 2.604 60.937 64.687 21.333 42.667 10.417 30.729 11.198 39.062 62.604 68.333 42.667 (<) $2,375 .059 .033 .045 .025 .233 .500 .059 .137 .083 .250 .125 .333 .417 .469 .504 $0,782 .626 .166 .253 .576 .576 .229 .549 .166 .193 .478 .488 .670 .511 .476 .482 .709 662.633 5.848 .530 6.771 67.292 20.833 11.458 24.479 14.683 79.167 153.646 31.260 31.260 25.000 56.250 33.854 21.875 45.312 20.833 72.396 160.417 41.667 33.854 31.250 42.667 42.667 21. 333 .031 .500 .167 .083 .167 .083 .583 .250 .208 .167 .500 .208 .125 .333 .167 .583 1.667 .375 .167 .167 .244 .196 .444 .275 .524 .481 .435 .409 .341 .442 .391 .480 .399 .401 .533 .369 .343 .441 .481 .483 .623 .540 .296 .321 .343 .276 1.249 1,080.104 8.415 .467 84.111 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .545 .461 19.271 28.263 10.417 10.417 39.583 28.263 42.667 21.333 .157 .245 .099 .054 .283 .319 .252 .296 .489 .520 .570 .311 .429 .677 .354 .833. 200.214 1.705 .511 1,090.611 9.266 .510 .201 32.91 311.35 281.25 768.05 1,280.14 2,30415 98.46 109.72 281.25 140.62 575.98 195.26 535.81 153.60 114.06 102.86 140.62 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Cheek in work _ Fancy stitch, quarters Close quarters _ _ __ ___ _ _ _ _ Rub stitches _ _ . _____ . _ __ Stay quarters ___. „ __ __ _ _ Cement, quarters . Press, machine Stitch tops " _ ...... Eyelet ....... Close linings________________ ___________________ Stay linings' _ J Make linings____________ ___________ ___________ Reenforce stays __ Double________________________________________ Stitch tips______________________________________ Mark for imitation stitch . Fancv stitch _ _ _ ______ .. .. .... ...... Vamp _ _ _ _ _ _ . Line toes _ _ .......... Bar Lace___________________________________________ Odd shoe work _ _ _ __ General work _ _ . __ _ _ Organization____________________________________ Total_____________________________________ 1.000 886.13 104.73 288.00 523.65 245.11 411.44 75.79 39.05 192.00 192.00 240.00 106.67 177.23 274.29 132.42 288.00 82.88 37.40 144.00 177.23 192.00 140.62 140.62 281.25 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather1........ ............ .......... .......................... Insoles, leather 1_________________________________ Counters, leather l _ _ Box toes, leather 1 _ _ TTeels, leather, 8/8 l _r_ _ ___ __ Stock fitting: Case doublers. _ _ ___ ________ Round Shank outsoles _ _ _ ...... Stamp soles _ _ _T _ _ ..__ ____ . Paste tips _ _ _ .............., . Channel _ _ _ _ _ __ __ ... , General work _ _ _ ______ __ _ Organization : Total _________ _1______ Total, sole-leather department________________ 311.35 212.29 575.98 575.98 151.58 212.29 . 140.62 . 281.25 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. * Included with item for organization. m T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D ISTR IC T, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. TSHSW E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. No. ^ —Women's McKay, mahogany oxford, imitation tip, Goodyear stitch, leather sole, leather counter, cork* insole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t Department and operation. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Match marks Tank insoles _ Pastelinings _ _ __ Pastacounters _ _ Pasta linings and repair lasts Assemble for pnli-ovar machinA_ _ .... . ... Pnll over, machine __ ....... < Side!eat; machine _ .... Operate bed machines Inspect. ___ Cobble . _____ _ Pnll insole tacks. Pound _ ___ .. _ Pnt. in shanks . .. _ TAy solas _ Pnll lasts Odd shoe work . _ ........... Operate elevators .. _ _ __ __ . Organization Total............................................................ Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. 21.333 26.042 46.875 21. 33a 21.333 47.917 78.125 80.729 148.437 21.333 64.000 25.521 57,29228.125 54.687 23.958 21.333 21.333 42.667 852.373 $0,163 .208 .167 .148 .089 .750 1.083 1.083 2,500 .119 .474 .167 .583 .167 .500 .208 . 170 .089 .615 9.283 $0,458 .479 .214 .416 .250 .939 .832 .805 1.612 .335 .444 .393 .611 .356 . 549 ! 521 .478 .250 76. 562. 19.271 41.667 31.250 31.250 140.625 18.229 23.177 54.687 42.708 45.312 25. 521 95.312 26.562 42.667 42.667 21.333 778.8dh .750 . 146 .250 .333 .417 1.667 .167 .250 .458 .625 .500 .208 1.250 .341 .230 .444 8.257 . 588 .455 .360 .639 .801 .711 .550 .647 .503 .878 .662 .489 .787 .499 .480 .323 1.249 .636 78.37 311.35 144.00 192.00 192.00 42.67 329.15 258.88 109.72 140.49 132.42 235.10 62.95 225.89 140.62 140.62 281.25 .583 1.250 .375 .042 .083 .417 .417 .167 .437 .333 .083 .167 .125 .417 .341 5.237 .513 .852 .626 .484 .319 .624 .632 .393 .541 .426 .435 .428 .300 .198 .959 .506 87.94 68.17 166.96 1,152.07 384.00 149.61 ’ 151.58 235.10 123.87 128.00 523.65 256.01 240.00 47.60 281.25 .542 2.083 .167 .054 .095 .226 .039 .398 .436 .244 .249 .497 .334 .250 .333 .468 .755 .423 73.38 20.91 145:82 460.79 523.65 147.69 640.00 157.81 140.62 140.62 .866 281.25 230.40 128.00 281.25 281.25 125.22 76.80' 74.32 40.42 281.25 93.75 235.10 194.73 213.33 109.72 250.44 281.25 281.25 140.62 .653 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. McKay stitch_____________________________________ Nail toes Cement shoas __ Level Rough trim. Fair stitch ... Nail heel seats ... _ ___ _ Reatnnt _ _ Peel, bases Reel, rubber _ _ . . . Shave, heels Breast . . . Trim edges _ _ _ Inspect _ _ _ ____ _ Cobble . ... General work . Organization. Total _ , . .221 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels _ Set edges • Buff _________________________ _ _ _ Pack shoes _ _ __ . Black heels ._ .......... Finish heels . ...... Nanmkeag. _ _ _ ....... .. Dyesnles _ .... _ . r_T . . . . . . . . ir._ Stain bottoms . . . . Finish bottoms Stamp soles . ...... Wheel soles .... _ ... _ ... _ Polish bottoms. ..... . .. _ .......... Polish tops _ _ _ _ _ _____ ____ . . Organization_____________ ____ _ _ ___ Total............................................................ 68.229 88.021 35.937 5.208 15.625 40.104 39.583 25.521 48.437 46.875 11.458 23.-437 25.000 126.042 21.333 620.810 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Put in sock lining Tron tree, hand _ _ _ . . . Lace. _ . . . . . . . _ ._ ....... Brash.. . . . Inspect_____________________ ______________________ Repair _ _ _ n r _ .. Size _ _ ___ _ _ _ _ _ Pack _ _____ _______________ . General work (ship). .. _ . . ... ........ Organization_______________________________ _______ Total. ...................................................................... Grand total. .... . _ __ _ .... 81.771 286.979 41.146 13.021 11.458 4a 625 9.375 38.021 42.667 42.667 607.730 5,693.061 .211 .333 .537 4.287 . 56.593 ]| *533- 43 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 32, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 2 .—Women’s McKay, oxford, black vici, one-strap, single sole, leather heel. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Sort leather. _ _ _______________ ______________ Pattern _____________________________ Cnt. outsides, hand _ _ ________________________ Cut trimmings, hand _____________________________ Cnt toe linings' hand Dink streps, hand _ __ _ __________________ Cut sock linings, hand_____________________________ Cut vamp linings, machine_________________________ Stamp _ _________________________________________ Made______________________ _______ __________ ____ Skive____________________ ________________________ Perforate quarters__________________________________ Assemble.*.................... ........... ........................................ Organization______________________________________ 19.556 19.556 381.944 215.278 55.389 36.111 57.694 16.667 37.500 20.833 18.333 167.670 16.667 17.334 $0,306 .306 6.250 1.750 .400 .250 .417 .120 .375 .167 .153 1.397 .174 .451 $0.939 .939 .982 .488.433 .415 .434 .432 .600 .481 .501 .500 .626 1.561 Total_________________________________ - _____ •1,080.532 12.516 .695 92.592 248.333 31.667 41.667 62.500 27.778 20.550 45.833 219.667 115.278 41.667 208.333 184.611 361. I ll 27.778 63.889 40.000 20.833 30.556 67.794 .694 2.069 .264 .264 .313 .167 .103 .356 1.831 1.167 .208 2.500 2.000 4.969 .250 .333 .333 .167 .139 1.000 .450 .500 .500 .380 .300 .361 .301 .466 .500 .607 .300 .720 .650 .826 .540 .313 .500 .481 .273 .885 1,952.437 19.127 .588 84. I ll 110.404 158.915 55.330 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 .587 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .636 .545 .461 19.201 15.562 .167 .257* .522 .991 8.333 8.333 8.333 33.333 10.000 27.778 30.556 22.222 19.444 25.000 27.778 19.556 .056 .075 .050 .339 .083 .250 .217 .150 .160 .211 .208 .306 .403 .540 .360 .610 .498 _ 540 .426 .405 .494 .506 .449 .939 275.429 2.529 .551 1,221.156 10.677 .525 306.81 306.81 15.71 27.87 108.32 166.15104.00 360.00 160.00 288.00 327.28 35.78 359.99 346.14 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Floor help_________________________________________ Make linings „ , „ _ _ _ Closft " .... .. _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ Stay.... ........... .................... ...................... ...................... Tape qnarteiA _ Cement linihgR ___________________________________ Cement, general _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ Press _ . . _ ...... _ _ Fanny stitnh ......... Stitch and perforate vamps _ . Reenforce ___ _ _ Binding___________________________________________ Vamp _ _.T1._ - ______________ Stitch pumps______________________________________ Sew buttons._____ ________________________________ Trim and button____ _____ ________________________ Operate buttonhole machine Trim buttonholes Pack _ _._ _ _ _ _ _ . ... _ _ Organization ______ ____ _ _ „ _ Total. ______ _______ _________ . 64.80 24.16 189.47 144.00 96.00 216.00 291.97 130.91 27.31 52.05 144.00 28.80 32.50 16.62 216.00 93.91 150.00 288.00 196.36 88.50 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather 1 Insoles, leather 1 _ _ _ Counters, leather 1 Top pieces, leather l Bor toes, leather 1 __ Heels, leather, women’s, 8/81 _ _ _ __ __ ..... _ _„_ __ . Stock fitting: Floor help _ ___ Sort soles . ____ _ _ _ Wet ._ _ _ _ _ _____ ___ __. _ . ' Skive ___ _._ Roll _ ______ Stamp and channel _ Lift groove _ __ ^ ,_ Round _ _ _ _ _ . ._ , _, ____ Flesh, all around_______ _____________ __. Shank out . __ _ _ M old________________________ Turn channels. _ _ . . Thin shank _ . ___ Organization . Total_____________________________ Total, sole-leather department r ._, . _ ______ „ 312.48 385.55 720.03 720.03 720.03 180.00 600.00 215.99 196.36 270.00 308.58 240.00 215.99 306.81 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from sevoral representative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 44 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D IST R IC T . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . SB — Women’s McKay, oxford, black vici,one-strap, single sole, leather heel—Contd Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Floor help.......................................................................... Pick lasts.................................................. ....................... Assemble for pull-over machine....................................... Pull over, machine....... .................................................... Side last, machine.......... : ................................................. Operate bed machine.......................... ............................ Pound................................................................................ Tack shanks........... ......................................................... •Lay soles___ __________— .......................................... Pull lasts................... ....................................................... Organization..................................................................... Hourly wages. 35.842 36.000 81.278 87.500 131.944 278.783 44.444 58.333 113.889 38.889 19.556 $0,389 .300 .917 1.389 2.000 3.194 .500 .333 1.072 .411 .306 $0,651 .500 .677 .952 .909 .687 .675 .343 .565 .634 .939 926.458 10.811 .700 Relast................................................................................. Shave heels...................................................................... Breast, “ Louis” ................................................................ Scallop-.............................................................................. Trim edges.................................................... ................. Organization.________ ______ _____ _________________ 87.083 31.944 100.000 20.833 45.856 45.856 13.889 36. I ll 93.056 45.833 19.444 137.500 9.778 .900 .278 1.083 .250 .347 1.042 .250 .472 1.750 .694 .167 2.139 .153 .620 .522 .650 .720 .454 1.363 1.080, .7 8 a 1.128 .909 .515 .933 .939 Total___________________________________________ 687.183 9.525 .882 47.222 27.778 111. I ll 58.333 41.667 26.389 45.833 41.667 55.556 69.444 48.611 48.611 76.389 27.778 25.000 152.778 9.778 .417 1.575 1.000 .250 .167 .389 .139 1.139 .667 .556 .306 .833 .211 .104 .778 .153 .530 .719 .851 1.029 .360 .380 .509 .200 1.230 .576 .686 .378 .654 .456 .250 .306 .939 913.945 a 017 .592 Sock line........ ................... ............................................... Tree, hand................. ........................... ........................... Repair tips.......... ............ .................................. .............. Button.......... .......................... .......................................... Pack.........................................................i ........................ Nail and stencil.._______ _______________ ______ _____ Ship.................................................................................... Organization................. .................................................... 53.333 296.333 249.958 40.000 lia250 15.063 20.450 19.556 .417 3.556 1.953 .250 .788 .174 .163 .469.720 .469 .375 .400 .693 .469 .939 Total_____________________________ ___ _______ 812.943 7.604 Total __ _ BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. M cK ay sew_„................................................................... Cement channels............................................................... Beat out............................................................ ............... Nail heel seats................................................................... Feed nailing machine....................................................... Heel.................................................................................... Numb, of paire worked on per hour. 167.40 166.67 73.82 68.57 45.47 21.52 135.00 102.86 52.68 154.29 306.81 68.90 187.83 60.00 288.00 130.84 130.84 432.00 166.15 64.48 130.91 308.58 43.64 613.62 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts, first tim e ................................................. Scour breasts, second tim e........................... ................... Set edges............................................................................ Scour heels..... ................................................................... Cobble................. ...... ......... ............................................. Dye.................................................................................... Slick................................ .................................................. Black heels.................. ...................................................... Finish heels....... ................................................ .............. Buff.................................................................................... Naumkeag..... '.................................................................. Black bottoms......... ........... ............... ............................ Roll bottoms_______ ______________________ ____ ___ Pull lasts.................................. ....................................... Inspect............................................................................... Clean uppers.................................................................... . Organization...................................................................... Total_______________ ______________________ .333 127.06 216.00 54.00 102.86 144.00 227.37 130.91 144.00 108.00 86.40 123.43 123.43 7a 55 216.00 24ft 00 39.27 613.62 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Grand total T __ 7,594.654 .306 79.277- .561 .626 i _ i . 112.50 20.25 24.00 150.00 50.74 398.33 293.40 303.81. 45 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 33, T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923. B Y DISTRICT, D E PARTM EN T, AN D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . SS —Men’s, Goodyear welt, russia calf vamp and top, single sole, leather heel. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Match marks........................................................................... Mark vamps for tips.............................................................. Skive......................................................................................... Punch tips............................................................................... Cut cloth linings, hand......................................................... Mark linings........................................................................... Cut eyelet facings, hand....................................................... Assemble.................................................................................. Sweep........................................................................................ Organization........................................................ - ................. 83.333 1,000.000 125.000 62.500 26.042 187.500 41.667 41.667 62.500 83.333 62.500 18.647 28.870 $1,180 14.167 1.771 .391 .250 1.984 .250 .470 .391 .408 .375 .108 .588 $0,850 .850 .850 .375 .576 .635 .360 .677 . .375 .294 .360 .348 Total............................................................................... 1,823. 559 22.333 .735 8.333 8.333 12.500 15.625 4.167 13,542 37.500 302.083 28.125 16.667 17.708 50.000 98.958 22.917 9.375 25.000 35.417 • 34.375 31.250 29.167 50.000 20.833 19.792 45.883 33.333 52.083 81.250 56.250 41.667 53.125 27.083 132.292 128.125 38.542 12.500 15.625 375.000 20.833 23.958 54.757 18.647 11.283 .031 .089 .052 .088 .076 .365 1.750 .313 .135 .177 .729 1.438 .313 .135 .250 .490 .563 .250 .250 .615 .177 .250 .604 .250 .365 1.094 .760 .365 .365 .135 1.333 1.333 .729 .135 .146 5.054 .250 .302 1.090 .108 .097 .223 .641 .250 .338 .302 .337 .584 .348 .486 .600 .875 .872 .819 .864 .600 .830 .983 .480 .514 .738 .510 .758 .791 .450 .420 .808 .800 .526 .412 .299 .605 .624 1.135 .648 .561 .809 .720 .756 1.194 .348 .516 2,113.853 23.062 .655 31.250 12.500 26.042 4.514 26.042 .406 .070 .307 .021 .307 .780 .336 .707 .279 .707 100.34$ 1. I ll .664 Stock-room work.................................................................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand...................................... 1.222 72.00 6 .0 0 48.00 96.00 230.39 32.00 144.00 144.00 96.00 72.00 96.00 321.78 207.83 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Sort work................................................................................. Skive vamps, under tips...................................................... Paste toe box........................................................................... Mark lining for heel and eyelet stay.................................. Pick name tapes..................................................................... Trim threads........................................................................... Work eyelet row..................................................................... Stitch tops............................................................................... Seam up tops.............................................................. ............ Rub seams............................................................................... Cement..................................................................................... Stitch backstays..................................................................... Paste hook stays................... ................................................ Sort tops........... ...................................................................... Trim vamps.............................. : ............................................ Stitch tips................................... ............................................ Stitch tips, second row........................................................ Double vamps............................................. - ............ ............ Trim doubles.......................................................................... Seam vamps............................................................................ Rub seams................................................................................ Double tips.............................................................................. Line tongues (stitching)........................................................ Trim tongues........................................................................... Paste eyelet stays on linings................................................ Stitch eyelet stays and tongue on linings.......................... Stitch heel stays on linings................................................. Top face linings....................................................................... Stitch name tapes on linings................ ............................... Trim eyelet stays on linings................................................. Turn bal............................... .................................................. Undertrim................................................. _............................ Eyelet....................................................................................... Sort tops.................................................................................. Sort vamps............................................................................... Vamp......................................................................................... Lace shoe.................................................................................. Seem toe lining....................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Sweep........................................................................................ Operate elevators.................................................................... T o t a l ___________________________________________________ .02 1 .6 6 8 720.03 720.03 480.00 384.00 1,439.89 443.07 160.00 19.80 213.33 359.99 338.83 120.00 60.63 261.81 640.00 240.00 169.41 174.55 191.94 205.71 120.00 288.00 303.15 130.91 180.00 115.20 73.85 106.67 143.99 112.94 221.54 45.35 46.83 155.67 480.00 384.00 16.00 288.00 250.44 109.58 321.77 531.77 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade______ - .................................................................... Sort..................................................................................... Distribute......................................................................... Case................................................................................... T o ta l __ _____ 84791°— 24t- _________ 192.00 480.00 230.40 1,329.20 230.40 46 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D IST R IC T . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T -C o n tin u e d . E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 33.—Men’s, Goodyear welt, russia calf vamp and top, single sole, leather heel— Contd. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— Concluded. Insoles: Cut........ Grade. .. Sort___ Case____ 46.875 15.625 41.667 10.417 l a 563 .088 .354 .089 |a721 .338 .510 .513 Total- 114.584 1.094 .573 Counters, leather1. 158.915 1.314 ~5iT 83.333 41.667 .810 .325 .583 .468 Top^pieces: Sort and skive. 125.000 1.135 .545 Box toes, leather1. . . . 113.788 1.033 .545 Heels: Cut lifts............... Grade lifts........... Build heels......... . Press dry............ . Tack on rands... Compress........... . S o r t................... . Case up............... . Organization____ 62.500 26.042 62.500 50.000 20.833 8.333 8.333 8.333 14.400 .553 .135 .430 .260 .216 .065 .065 .083 .175 .531 .311 .413 .312 .622 .468.468 .454 .729 Total_________ 201.274 1.962 .451 13.542 15.625 13.542 6.250 15.625 31.250 33.333 27.083 18.647 22.674 .083 .133 .073 .031 .098 .267 .450 .300 .108 .433 .368 .511 .323 .298 .376 .513 .810 .665 .348 1.146 Total. Stock fitting: Stamp outsoles.................................. Shank outsoles..................................... Cement outsoles.................................. Scour insoles........................................ Stamp insoles...................................... Round insoles.................................... Channel insoles................................... Turn channels, insoles................. . Sweep................................................... Organization _ ..................................... Total.................................................. 197. 571 1.976 .600 Total, sole-leather department-.« 1,071.480 9.625 .539 36.458 15.625 41.667 614.583 98.958 427.083 109.375 39.829 .327 * .083 .427 5.042 1.563 4.879 L 140 .650 .538 .319 .615 .492 .948 .685 .625 .979 1,383.578 14. I ll .612 22.917 46.875 15.625 151.042 26.042 46.875 26.042 .300 .392 .300 2.475 .423 .652 .272 .785 .502 1.152 .983 .975 .835 .627 128.00 384.00 144.00 576.98 72.00 144.00 96.00 230.40 96.00 m oo 288.60 72a 03 720.03 72a 03 416.67 443.07 384.00 443.07 96a 00 384.00 192.00 180.00 221.54 321.77 264.62 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Pick lasts...... ............................. . Paint lasts........ .......................... Tack insoles....... ,........................ . Assemble and side last, hand.,. Pull over, machine.................... Operate bed machine........ . Crown.......................................... . Organization...... .......................... Total.................................. . 164,57 384.00 144.00 9.76 6a 63 14.05 54.86 150.66 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Staple......... - .............................. Pull tacks................................... Trim toes................. ................ Goodyear welt.......................... Knock tacks.............................. Trim butt welts and inseams. Beat welts................................. 261.81 128.00 384.00 39.72 230.40 128.00 230.40 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See p. 132-140. • 47 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 33, TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . S3.—Men's, Goodyear welt, russia calf vamp and top, single sole, leather heel—Contd. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Tack shanks and butts....... ............................................. Fill bottoms..................................................................... Cement welts— ................................... ........................... Lay soles................................................ ........................... Nail, heel seats—..................................... ...................... Rough round..................................................................... Turn channels.......................................... ....................... Goodyear stitch................................................................. Cement channels_____ _____________________________ Turn down channels........................... ......... ................... Prick stitches............................................. ...................... Trim heel seats....................................—.......................... Level................. ................... ........................................... Heel......... ......................................................................... Slug................................................................................... Shave heels...................................................................... Breast heels............................................. ......................... Trim edges........................................................................ Joint............ ..................................................................... Grown............................................................................... Sweep................................................... ............................ Operate elevators............................................................ Organization.......................................................... ........... Total __________ _____ FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour, rough.......................................................... .......... Set edge............................................................................. Burnish stitches........................................................... .... Stain rands........................................................................ Scour heel breasts.............................................................. Scour heels....... ................................................................ Smooth heels..................................................................... Black heels....................... ............................................... Scour bottoms..................... ............................................ Scour top pieces................................................................ Gum and stain...................................... ........................... Stone heels............................................... ........................ Faking and polishing.................................... ................... Pull lasts............................................................................ Return lasts................................................. .................... Box lasts........................................................................... Sweep.......... - ................... - ............................................... Organization....................................... . .... ................... T o ta l _______________________ TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Stamp.......................................................... .................... Line-m....................................................................... ........ Tree, hand.................... ....................... ........................... Repair................................................................................ Clean and lace................................................................... Brush................................................................................. Gild face............................................................................ Mark cartons.............................................. .................... Pack in cartons................................................................. Take cartons from bench.................................................. Nail in boxes........................................ ........................... S h ip .................................................................................. Organization..................................................................... Total........................................................................ Grand total _ _ ____ ______ 31.250 26.042 15.625 36.458 20.833 62.500 15. 625 131.250 15.625 20.833 41. 667 20.833 41. 667 62.500 62.500 46.875 41.667 177.083 26.042 62.500 18.647 11.283 39.829 $0,442 .272 .131 .542 .263 .217 2.925 .208 .217 .544 .188 .490 1.267 .638 .713 .392 3.075 .490 .521 .108 .097 .650 $0,849 .627 .593 .892 .757 1.152 .833 1.337 .799 .625 .783 .541 .706 1.216 .612 .913 .564 1.0*2 1.129 .500 .348 .516 .979 _ 1,364.552 20.404 .897 26.042 187.500 41.667 31.250 15.625 41.667 31.250 20.833 83.333 31.250 62.500 62.500 83.333 31.250 15.625 31.250 18.647 14.453 .450 3.075 .272 .185 .180 .450 .281 .150 1.067 .392 .942 .788 1.558 .392 .087 .161 .108 .276 1.037 .984 .392 .355 .691 .648 .540 .432 .768 .753 .904 .756 L 122 .753 .334 .309 .348 1.146 829.975 10.814 . .782 20.833 26.042 375.000 156.250 20.833 .208 .272 4.960 1.219 .272 .190 .401 .266 1.083 .108 .290 .313 .400 .599 .627 .792 .468 .783 .438 .385 .328 .416 .415 .418 .401 .833 1,023.594 9.962 .584 9,610.591 110.311 .689 26.012 62.500 46.875 156.250 15.625 41.667 46.875 28.802 1.200 192.00 230.40 384.00 164.57 288.00 96.00 384.00 45.71 384.00 288.00 144.00 288.00 144.00 96.00 96.00 128.00 144.00 33.88 230.40 96.00 321.77 531.77 150.65 230.40 32.00 144.00 192.00 384.00 144.00 192.00 288.00 72.00 192.00 96.00 96.00 72.00 192.00 384.00 192.00 321.77 415.14 288.00 230.40 16100 38.40 288.00 230.40 96.00 128.00 38.40 384.00 144.00 m 00 208.31 48 A N D LABOR COSTS— ^N EW E N G L A N D D IST R IC T . t im e T IM E A N D LABOR C 0 8 T S IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Of—Men’s welt bal., russian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. . ___ _ Selecting dies for cutters...................................................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, machine................................. Case up shoes.......................... ............................................... Match marks................. ........................................................ Cut linings, machine............................................................. Case up side linings................................................................ Cut and case facings............................................................... Case up doublers..................................................................... Skive enamel side linings.................. ........... ............. ........ Skive bottom of pointed stays, wide.................................. Skive pointed stays, narrow................................................. Skive toes............................. ................................................... Skive bal tops.......................................................................... Skive vamp throats................................................................ Skive bottom of bal tops....................................................... Skive bottom of bal tongues................................................. Skive sides of tongues............................................................ Punch tips................................................................................ Skive tips.................................................................................. Stamp linings........................................................................... Floor work................................................................................ Sweep........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................ 67.200 28.800 500.000 31.250 36.458 2a 833 7.292 36.458 a 250 25.521 * 4.167 10.417 8.333 29.688 28.646 17.188 3.125 8.333 8.333 7.813 9.375 23a 400 9.600 19.200 $0,468 .378 6.563 .375 .333 .208 .125 .229 .125 .208 .083 .146 .113 .375 .229 .208 .083 .177 .052 .088 .065 21169 .050 .213 $a788 .788 .720 .548 .599 1.029 .377 1.200 .489 1.195 .841 .814 .758 .480 .726 1.594 1.274 .374 .676 .416 .565 .313 .666 Total............................................................................... 1,154.680 13.063 .679 4a 354 48.438 53.646 26.042 51.042 25.521 21.875 41.146 2a 563 27.083 23.958 11.458 74.479 44.271 29.167 11.979 39.063 29.688 8.333 101.563 19.792 145.833 2a 042 la 146 280.208 72.917 8.333 19.792 19.792 18.750 34.896 4.688 .240 .528 .396 .250 .167 .250 .296 .417 .375 .271 .375 .177 .708 .438 .229 .146 .443 .208 .094 .667 .229 1.792 .375 .188 2.708 .375 .113 .188 .188 .208 .375 .311 .654 .443 .576 .196 .588 .812 .608 .847 .600 .939 fit.nck-room w ork 89.28 208! 38 12.00 192.00 164.57 288.00 822.82 164.57 96a 00 235.10 1,439.88 575.98 72a 03 202.10 209.45 349.06 1, 92 a 00 72a 03 72a 03 767.95 64a 00 2a 04 62a 02 312.50 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Stain vamps............................ ...................... ......................... Stitch extensions......................................................... .......... Cement brace and side linings............................................. Double tops, bal..................................................................... Double vamps............... ........................................................ Close vamps..................................................................... ....... Stay vamps..................................................... ......................... Tip two rows, edge................................................................. Tip third row through b o x ................................................. Close tops................................................................................. Stitch eyelet rows with gauge.............................................. Cement for double for machine............. ............................. Stitch facings and tongues............. ....................................... Stitch heel stays on linings................................................... Stitch top bands..................................................................... Trim linings............................................................................. Cement hook-stays................................................................. Rub tops................................................................................... Stitch pointed stays with straps.......................................... Sort tops and linings.............................................................. Stitch tops................................................... - .......................... Eyelet..................................... .................................... ............ Sort v a m p s.............................................. ............................. Close vamps, two rows........................... ....................... Brace at heel____________________ __________ __________ Trim tongues........................................................................... Close toes................................................................................. Stitch felt linings on tongues................................................ Count and check out.............................................................. Floor work................................ ............................................. Odd shoe work_________ _ ___ _ _____________ Sweep........................................................................................ Organization.......................................................................... Total _ _ n ___T . , .927 .570 .594 .471 .731 .680 .420 .677 .394 .694 .737 .864 .699 .580 .309 .814 .570 .570 .6 6 6 105.600 19.200 38.400 .098 .437 .645 .512 .468 .391 .306 .683 1,879.258 17.075 .545 307:200 .040 2.398 .6 8 8 129.44 123.87 111.84 230.40 117.55 23a 10 274.20 145.82 22a 88 221.54 25a 44 523.65 8a 56 13a 53 205.71 500.88 153; 60 202.10 720.03 59.08 303.15 41.14 23a 40 371.61 21.41 82.29 72a 03 303.15 303.15 32a 00 171.94 1,279.86 19.53 5a 81 312.54 15a 24 49 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 34. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y DISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 4 .—Men’s welt bal., russian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Contd. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs Jo (minutes). 1100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Cut.............................................................................. Sort. Grade____________________________ ______ - ......... Stamp____________ ____________________________ Case."....................... .................... ............... ............. General work__________________________________ Total ____ . , , ___ ___ Insoles: Cut _ _ _ Sort............................................................................. Grade. Case _ ___ _ ________________ General work , r _ __ Total . „ __ ___ __. _ Counters: Cut....... ..................... ................................................. Skive___ __ ___ M old_____ Sort __,____ . . ____ _________ Glue ____ _ _ _ ______ General work _ _ __ Total______________ Box toes, leather i___ ______________________ __________ Heels: Cut heel lifts and make bases „ _ _ _ Case heel bases___ _ .... ....... _ _ _ _ _ General work Total_____ ________________ ________ Stock fitting: Shank outsoles _. . ... Round insoles..... ........................ ............... .............. Cut insole lips at toes and heels, and stamp Channel________________________ ______ ________ Cement channels__ ____ _ Crimp insoles Cut canvas. .. ________ Form canvas. Trim gems.................................................................. Pound down hutts Inspect insoles _ _ _ ___ _ _ ___ Case insoles Match stock to uppers__________________________ Sweep......................................................................... General work ._ ... _ _. r ___ _ Organization _ _ _ Total _______ _________________ Total, sole-leather department 20.833 35.417 20.833 7.292 18.750 15.600 $0,228 .387 .104 .056 .117 .100 $0,657 .656 .300 .461 .374 .385 118.725 .992 .501 46.875 52.083 20.833 10.417 15.600 .326 .521 .104 .065 .100 .417 .600 .300 .374 .385 145.808 1.116 .459 46.875 10.417 34.375 8.333 36.458 15.600 .326 .076 .227 .056 .177 .100 .417 .438 .396 .403 .291 .385 152.058 .962 .380 113.788 1.033 .545 93.750 36.458 15.600 .797 .229 .100 .510 .377 .385 145.808 1.126 .463 33.333 26.042 27.083 26.042 20.833 20.833 10.417 10.417 20.833 16.625 52.083 26.042 12.500 9.600 19.200 38.400 .208 .208 .194 .284 . 104 .188 . 125 .125 .229 .083 .260 .163 .089 .045 .173 .453 .374 .479 .430 .654 .300 .541 .720 .720 .660 .319 .300 .376 .427 .281 .541 .708 369.283 2.931 .476 1,045.470 8.160 .468 288.00 169.41 288.00 822.82 320.00 384.61 128.00 115.20 288.00 575.98 384.61 128.00 575.98 174.55 720.03 164.57 384.61 64.00 164.57 384.61 180.00 230.40 221.54 230.40 288.00 288.00 575.98 575.98 288.00 384.00 115.20 230.40 480.00 625.02 312.54 156.24 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See p. 132-140. 50 T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS— NETT E N G L A N D D IST R IC T . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 19®, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Cont inued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . $ 4 .-— Men’s welt bal., russian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift— Contd. Time cost cost of 100 pairs ofLabor 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Put up lasts.............................................................................. Tack insoles............................................................................. Trim insoles.............................................. - ............................ Assemble for puller-over machine...................................... Pull over, machine................................................................. Side last, machine......... - ......................... ............................. Operate bed machines............................................................ General work........................................................................... Odd shoe work........................................................................ Sweep........................................................................................ Cobble...................................................................................... Organization............. ....... ............... .......... ........................... Total __, _ _____ _ _ 20.833 21.875 17.708 109.375 109.375 125.000 302.083 9.800 9.600 9.600 19.200 48.000 $0,141 .358 .113 1.417 1.667 1.583 3.042 .055 .078 .049 .188 .622 $0,406 .982 .383 .777 .915 .760 .604 .344 .488 .306 .588 .778 802.249 9.313 .697 9.375 28.646 71.875 32.292 33.854 45.313 20.833 17.708 22.396 13.542 6.771 34.896 19.271 43.229 123.438 11.458 8.854 8.333 42.708 11.458 3.125 3.125 26.042 31.771 50.000 33.333 166.667 41.667 9.600 9.600 19.200 57.600 38.400 .206 .375 1.813 .600 .281 .528 .300 .188 .225 .150 .113 .486 .300 1.614 2.375 .167 .169 .188 .450 .208 .016 .013 .750 .938 .639 .300 2.625 .417 .054 .077 .098 .572 .437 1.318 .785 1.513 1.115 .498 .699 .864 .637 .603 .665 1.001 .836 .934 1.407 1.154 .874 1.145 1.354 .632 1.089 .307 .250 1.728 1.771 .767 .540 .945 .600 .338 .481 .306 .596 .683 1,096.380 17.072 .934 20.833 50.000 187.500 20.833 16.667 70.833 41.667 46.875 28.125 20.833 29.187 44.792 34.375 15.625 9.375 42.708 2.400 4.800 9.600 24.000 19.200 .167 .600 2.542 .206 .150 .625 ,375 .600 .271 .146 .250 .260 .500 .125 .263 .417 .018 .035 .068 .175 .215 8.008 .481 .720 .813 .593 .540 .529 .540 .768 .578 .420 .514 .348 .873 .480 1.683 .586 .450 .438 .425 .438 .672 .649 288.00 274.29 338.83 54.86 54.86 48.00 19.86 625.02 625.02 625.02 312.54 125.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes........ ............... ............................................. .......... Pull tacks......... .......... ............. ........................ ............... Goodyear welt............... ................................ ........................ Trim seams and b u tt_____ ____ ____________ _______ Pound butts........................................................................... Knock tacks........................................... .......... ..................... Beat welts........................ ...................................................... Stick shanks _ _ _ _ __ ____ Fill bottoms............................................................................. Cement bottoms.......................................... .......................... Cement soles.... ............... ......................... .............................. Lay soles.................. ............................................................... Nail heel seats_____.'.......... .......................................„.......... Rough round and channel............................... ............ ........ Goodyear stiteh...................... ............................................... Raise channels________________________________________ Cement channels........... .............................................. ......... Lay channels....................... .................. ..................... .......... Level......................... .............. ........................................ . Trim heel seats___ Cement rubber heels.............................................................. Cement rubber heel bases........ ............................................ Attach bases______________ _______________ ___________ Attach rubber heels................................. ...................... ....... Trim heels, one-half rubber_________ _________________ Breast heels............................................................................ Trim edges_________________ _______ ____________ _____ Joint, one side.... .................................... .......... ..................... Odd shoe work............... ..................................... ........ . _ Operate elevators ___ __ ____ Sweep.................................... ........................................ .......... General work and cobble............................................ Organization............................................ ..... .......................... T o t a l ................................................................ 640.00 209.45 83.48 185.80 177.23 132.41 288.00 338.83 267.90 443.07 886.13 171.94 311.35 138.80 48.61 523.65 677.66 720.03 140.49 523.65 1,920.00 1,*920.00 230.40 188.85 120.00 180.00 36.00 144.00 625.02 625.02 312.54 104.17 156.25 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heel breasts......................................................... _ Scour heels, first time _ _ _ Set edges............................................................... .......... ......... Scour heels, second time........................................... .......... Black heels......................................................................... Burnish heels____________ ______________________ _____ Inspect (out erf room) . ____ ____ Sand foreparts.............. ......................................................... Naumkeag and dust................. ........................... ............... Pinwheel shanks.... ....................................... ........................ Stain, first time........ ............................................................ Stain, second time.................................................................. Polish buttons......................................................................... Wheel breast........................................................................... Stamp shoes.............................................................. ............. Pull lasts................................................................................... Odd shoe work . . . _ _ ____ Sweep_______________ _____________ __________________ Operate elevator..................................................... ................ General work____ _______ _____________ ________ _____ Organization................. ..................................................... ..... Total_____ _ _ _ _ ______ 740.208 288.00 120. CO 32.00 288.00 359.99 84.71 144.00 128.00 213.33 288.00 205.71 133.95 174.55 384.00 640.00 1^9.49 2,'00.00 1,250.00 625.02 2.0.00 312.54 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 35. 51 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OP SHOES I N 1923, B Y DISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 54.—Men's welt bal., rassian calf, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Coned. Department and operation. Time cost cost of 100 pairs ofLabor 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Search for tacks........................... ..................................... Cut. tacks .........., ______ Burn threads r ___ , — — * Paste heel pads _ ____ Pair for treers______ ___ _______________ Tree, hand_________ _____ ________________ Dress russets ______ — Apply coat of filler__ ____ - _____________________ — Polish russets________________________________ -- ---ITaftft ........ ...... Repair Brush heels and edges, entered .... . ______ Emboss top band _ _ - __ ___________ Inspect, ........ _ _______ Mark carton* . ir. r.. ___ ________ Pack shoes ...... . . Seal cases _______ ____ ___ ______ - _______ —— Stencil cases.......... . . . . . . _____- ......... Odd shoe work ___ - - Operate elevators___ _________________________ ____ Sweep . / .......... _ Repair __ _____________ Ship General work __ _ Organization ... —* Total____ ____ __ __________-_________________ Grand t o t a l._ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 5 — —______ — __________ $0,094 .130 .094 .113 .113 1.917 .639 .300 .542 .271 .600 .188 .081 .217 .052 .194 .065 .080 ,060 .067 .005 .198 .150 .315 $0,451 .374 .773 .434 .501 .736 .387 . 576 .520 .743 .461 .401 .311 .417 ,274 .447 .374 .461 .375 ,419 ,322 .413 .469 .438 ,656 774.692 6.695 .519 7,492.937 79.380 .210 1 480.00 288.00 822.82 384.00 443.07 38.40 60.63 192.00 96.00 274.29 76.80 273.33 384.00 192.00 720.03 230.40 575.98 675.98 625.02 625.02 6,430.86 208.34 312.54 208.34 208.34 .636 Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, leather heel. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Stock-room work ______ -____ Cut. vamps, tips, quart****, and tongues, hand Sort_____ —...... ....................... .......... ............. Cut quarter finings (leather), hand ___ ._ _ Cut vamp Mningsrcloth,.-_________ —____ -_____ Cut vamp doublers, cloth___ _ Cut. sock linings _ . .. Match marks and sizes __ Cripple work r........ ... Mark vamps for tips ____ ____________ _____ Mark quarter perforations ___________ „________ Perforate tips. , ____ ______ __ Skive vamps .— ...— ___ Skive quarters . . . Stencil case numbers........ . Sort and count. ___ ______ -_-________ Cripple work (girls) ____ Inspect- __ _________________ ___ _________ Floor work-________ _________ _______________ Sweep______________ ________-_—________ Organization_________________ _______________ Total____ ...... , ....... . aJ ,,.. ., 12.500 2a 833 7.292 15.625 13.542 156.250 98.958 31.250 62.500 21.875 78.125 28.125 15.625 31.250 8.333 26.042 10.417 10.417 9.600 9.600 .938 28.800 19.200 28.800 28.800 25.512 313.818 89.292 216.000 18.280 23.326 41.472 21.949 2$. 302 51.654 34,524 14.421 21.718 28.519 29.308 53.478 12.756 12.756 25.512 12.756 12.756 1,088.109 $0,283 3.350 .665 .900 .300 .180 .320 .220 .250 .190 .200 .160 .150 .180 .290 .500 .064 .079 .166 .053 .276 8.776 $0,666 .641 . 447 .250 .985 .463 .463 .661 .530 .221 . 348 .666 .414 .379 .594 ,564 .301 ,372 .390 .249 1.298 .484 235.18 19.12 67.20 27.78 328.23 257.22 144.68 273.36 212.00 116.16 173.79 416.06 276.27 210.39 204.72 112.20 470.37 470.37 235.18 470.37 470.37 52 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D IST R IC T . TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D IS T R IC T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 55.—Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, laee oxford, single sole, leather heel—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Perforate vamps.............................. ............ Double vamps........ ................... ........... . Stitch tips..................................................... Close heel seams.......................................... Stay heel seams............. ............................. Snip (quarters)............................................. Cement quarters.......................................... Fold quarters............................................... Perforate quarters........................................ Stitch perforated quarters.......................... Close heel linings......................................... Stay heel linings........................................ Stitch quarters to toe linings..................... Stitch tops.-.._T........................................... Eyelet.................... ........... .......................... Match vamps............. ................................ Vamp____ ________ _____ ______ _______ Bar____________ ______________ ________ Lace____________________________ ______ Tie up................... ......................................... Cripple work................................................ Floor work........... .......... ............................ Odd shoe work..,___ ___________________ Sweep.......................................................... Machinists’ work....................................... Belt repairing...... .......... ............................. Inspect..................................... .................... Check out work........................................... Organization................................................. 29.490 26.491 54.136 30.151 26.530 18.445 36.738 131.112 58.974 103.794 33.486 62.502 135.000 61.460 207.318 22.873 66.667 145.518 21.193 40.002 11.818 138.462 102.048 102.048 12.756 12.756 25.512 12.756 12.756 38.268 $0,250 .180 .300 .200 .250 .170 .150 .590 .500 .840 .200 .250 .540 .320 1.360 .190 .250 1.500 .180 .160 .110 .750 .646 .468 .077 .157 .159 .068 .049 .665 $0,509 .408 .332 .398 .565 .553 .245 .270 .509 .486 .358 .240 .240 .312 .394 .498 .225 .618 .510 .240 .558 .325 .380 .275 .362 .738 .374 .320 .230 1.043 Total..................... ............................. 1,781.060 11.529 .388 Outsoles, leather1___ _______ ____________ Insoles, leather1_______ . ________ ____ ____ Counters, leather1.............. *..._..................... Top pieces, leather1.... ........... ...................... Box toes, leather1................... ......................... Heels, leather, 8/81.......................................... 84. Ill 110.404 158.915 55.330 113.788 423.-179 .892 1.069 1.314 .587 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .636 .545 .461 Stock fitting: Reduce shanks..................................^__ Stamp and size......................................... Cement and tie up................................. * Channel..................................................... Grade and stamp sizes............................ Cut toes..................................................... Cement________ . . . . .......... ..................... Cut lips....................................................... Set lips._____ *............................................ Lay, duck and form................................. Reenforce.................................................. Sort sizes and case.................................... Inspect...................................; ................. . General work............................................ Organization.........................................._A _ Round insoles.__________ ___________ _ 20.424 30.000 44.348 • 58.074 12.857 10.715 30.000 21.429 29.269 36.432 36.432 17.850 12.856 12.756 12.756 28.422 .230 .140 .170 .370 .060 .050 .140 .100 .200 .170 .170 .140 .060 .079 .197 .180 .676 .280 .230 .382 .280 .280 .280 .280 .410 .280 .280 .471 .280 .372 .927 .380 203.46 226.49 110.83 199.00 226.16 325.29 163.32 45.76 101.74 57.81 179.18 96.00 44.45 97.62 28.94 262.32 90.00 41.23 283.11 149.99 507.70 43.33 58.80 58.80 470.37 470.37 235.18 470.37 470.37 156.79 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total........................................................ 414.620 2.456 .355 Total, sole-leather department______ 1,360.347 10.604 .468 293.77 200.00 135.29 103.32 466.67 559.96 200.00 279.99 205.00 164.69 164.69 336.13 466.71 47ft 37 47ft 37 211.10 i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several icpresentative establishments. See p. 132-140. E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 35, 53 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 6 .— Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, leather heel—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Put up soles.............................................................................. Match uppers.......................................................................... Put up lasts.............................................................................. Chalk heels........ ..................................................................... Tack insoles.............................................................................. Trim heel seats........................................................................ Assemble for puller-over machine........................................ Pull over, machine.................................................................. Wet............................................................................................ Side last, machine................................................................... Operate bed machine.............................................................. Put away lasts......................................................................... Scour toes................................. i .............................................. Cripple work............................................................................ Inspect toes........ ..................... ............................................... Cobble............... ....................................................................... Inspect......................_■...................................................................... Odd shoe w ork....................................................................... Operate elevators............... .................................................... Organization............................................................................ 12.756 12.756 20.323 5.977 34.358 32.197 68.592 71.964 44.106 102.714 223.938 61.770 14.346 56,604 34.884 12.779 180.000 180.000 60.000 12.756 60.000 $0,060 .100 .170 .050 .300 .140 .670 .900 .250 1.300 2.520 .350 ' .120 .250 .250 .164 1.330 .990 .430 .074 .926 Total............................................................................... 1,302.820 11.344 .522 Stick nails.................. .................................................................... Heel........................................................................................... Slug heels................... .. ..................................................... ....... Shave heels............................................................................... Breast heels.............................................. .. .............................. Gouge.................. .. .................................................................... Inspect.................................. .. ........................................................................... Floor work.............. •_............................. ........................................................................ Odd shoe work.......................................... ............................................ Operate elevators................................................................... .................................. Organization.................................................................................................................. 41.826 41.580 82.759 77.418 35.836 39.619 34.247 24.789 61.740 18.324 73.554 34.430 42.961 29.430 24.387 151.578 15.427 42.858 <59.363 17.143 41.651 17.845 12.167 235.470 12.000 20.572 21.954 10.422 38.802 48.634 23.794 55.374 43.899 19.025 120.000 60.000 120.000 12; 756 60.000 .310 .230 .380 1.500 .300 .450 .300 .230 .330 .170 .380 .490 .680 .230 .270 2.000 .200 .200 .680 .100 .540 .220 .150 1.580 .070 .120 .150 .120 .250 .540 .230 .450 .310 .130 1.060 .300 .660 .066 1 . Ill .445 .332 .276 1.163 .502 .681 .526 .557 .321 .557 .310 .854 .950 .469 .664 .792 .778 .280 .687 .350 .778 .740 .740 .403 .350 .350 .410 .691 .387 Total...................................................................................................................... 1,923.634 17.487 .545 $0,282 .470 .502 .502 .524 .261 .586 .750 .340 .759 .675 ,340 .502 .265 .430 .770 .443 .330 .430 .348 .926 470.37 470.37 295.23 1,003.85 174.63 186.35 87.48 83.38 136.04 58.42 26.79 97.13 418.24 106.00 172.00 469.52 33.33 33.33 100.00 470.37 m oo BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim.......................................................................................... Staple uppers.......................................................................... Pull side tacks......................................................................... Goodyear welt ... ...................................................................... Pull insole tacks.......................................................................................................... Trim seams..................................................................................................................... Butt welts............... .. .................................................................... Beat welts............................................................................ ........................................... Fill bottoms............................................................................. Cement bottoms---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Put in shanks_____ : ................................................................................................... Lay soles........................... .............................................................. . Rough round...........................J.............................................. Turn channels......................................................................... Reduce shanks........................................................................ Goodyear stitch....................................................................... Lay channels— ...................................... .............................. Cement channels..................................................................... Level................... .. ....................... _•................................................................ Wet channels................................................................................................................. Break shanks and trim.......................................................... Nail heel seats.............................................................................................................. Round heel seats.......................................................... ............................................. Trim edges.............. ........................................................................................................ Case counters.......................................................................... Case heels.......................................................................................................................... Prick heels........................................................................................................................ .6 6 6 .580 .488 .424 .410 .530 .300 .330 .310 1.111 143.45 144.30 72.50 77.50 167.43 151.44 175.20 242.04 97.18 327.44 81.57 174.27 139.66 203.87 246.03 39.58 388.93 140.00 101.07 350.00 144.06 336.23 493.13 25.48 500.00 291.66 273.30 575.71 154.63 123.37 252.17 108.35 136.68 315.37 50.00 100.00 50.00 470.37 100.00 ------------ _ 54 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— N E W E N G L A N D D IST R IC T . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES I N 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . S5.—Women's Goodyear welt, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, leather heel—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Set edges......... ............... — — ................- ............................ Wheel edges—.......................................................................... Scour heel breasts............—..................... —........................... FiB heels............................—- .......................... ....................... Scour heels, first time............................................................ Scour heels, second time........................................................ Veneer heels.....................—.................................................... Black heels-......................— .................................... - .......... Burnish heels.-..........—......................................................... Cripple work.................... - ..................... ................................ Scour bottoms........ .................. ............................................. Naumkeag...................... « ............................... ....................... Dust off..................................................................................... Repair channels............................................—....................... Black bottoms.......................................— ............................ Polish bottoms......................................................................... Brush uppers................... ....................................................... Wheel bottoms................ ——................................................ Pull lasts......................... ........................ - .............................. Cripple work-—. ................................... —............................ Inspect.................................... - ................................................ Odd shoe work____ ______ ______ _______ ___________ Organization— .....................- ................—........................... Total___ _______________________ ________ 237.640 37.594 21.177 10.098 41.142 18.061 19.765 30.000 46.158 53.574 30.239 23.028 15.556 22.158 28.014 39.678 37.590 25.946 12.704 18.046 12.756 38.268 12.756 $1.580 .250 .150 .110 .410 .180 .140 .140 .500 .250 .430 .250 .070 .120 .240 .410 .360 .160 .130 .100 .089 .223 .197 $0,399 .399 .425 .410 .598 .598 .425 .280 .650 .280 .853 .651 .270 .325 .514 .620 .575 .370 .614 .332 .419 .350 .927 837.848 6.489 .465 35.378 156.330 333.330 113.940 31.035 13.791 79.638 45.456 32.689 63.828 12.756 25.512 12.756 12.756 12.756 12.756 12.756 .250 1.850 2.000 .500 .150 .140 .500 .250 .310 . 500 .117 .187 s •ecu VW •061 !072 .119 .236 25.26 moo 283.33 372 72 145.84 33221 363.57 moo 12299 111.99 198.42 266.55 385.70 272 78 214.18 151.22 152 62 231.25 47230 33248 470; 37 156.79 470.37 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Put in sock Minings.........................................................— — Tree, band..........................——....................................... ....... Repair............................. ........................................... - .......... Black edges.......................... — .............................................. T-aC.e __________ __ _ __ Brush edges* heels, and bottoms......................................... Inspect......... ................................................................. ..... Make boxes and label.—__ —.............. ............................... Pack............... - .........................- .............................................. Cripple work— ................. ........... ............................. ....... Rede an shoes.... ................... - ________ - .......................— Odd shoe work.......................- ................................................ Stencil cases.......................................................................... — Nail cases.................................................................................. Shipping labor........................ - .......................................... Ship................................. - ............................................ ........... Organization —. _____ . . . . . . ___ ____ ___________ ____ .424 .710 .360 .263 .290 .013 ' .377 .330 .569 .470 .550 .440 .452 .301 .339 .560 1.110 T o t a l . . . _______ _____________ —________ ______ 1,007.384 7.341 .437 Grand total____________________ ——_________— 9,301.202 73.570 .475 E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 9 .—Women’s 1 I ......... McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Stock-room work........................................ ............... ........... Cut vamps, tfcs, quarters, and tongues, hand................. Cut quarter linings and leather, hand___________ _____ Cut vamp lhrinss, cloth........................... ............................ Cut vamp dbumers, cloth...................... ................—.......... Cut socklinings......................................................... ............ Match marks and sizes_____________ - ................. _______ Cripple work......................................................................... Mark vamps for tips................................. .......................... Mark quarter perforations._____________________ ______ 169.60 38.38 18.00 5266 193.33 437.92 75.34 132 00 183.55 9400 470.37 235.18 476.37 470.37 470.37 470.37 470.37 25.512 313.818 89.292 216.000 18.280 23.331 41.469 21.949 28.302 51.654 34522 $0,283 3.350 .665 .900 .300 .180 .320 .220 .250 .190 .200 $0,666 .641 .447 .250 .985 .463 .463 .601 .530 .221 .348 235.18 19.12 67.20 27.78 328.23 257*17 14469 273.36 212.00 116.16 173.80 55 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 39 . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1823, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 50.—Women's McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel—Continued Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT— c o n c lu d e d . 14.421 21.7i8 28. 519 29.308 53.476 12. 756 12.756 25.512 12.756 12.756 $0.160 .150 .180 .290 .500 .064 .079 .166 .053 .276 $0.666 .414 .379 .594 .561 .301 .372 .390 .249 1.298 1,088.107 8.776 .484 29. 487 26.490 54.135 30.151 26. 530 18.445 36.735 131. Ill 58,976 103.789 33.482 02.500 135.000 61.460 207.317 22.873 66.667 145.513 21.193 40.000 11.817 138.462 102.048 102.048 12.756 12. 756 25. 512 12.756 12. 756 38.268 .250 .180 .300 .200 .250 .170 .150 .590 .500 .840 .206 .250 .540 .320 1.360 .190 .250 1.500 .180 .160 .110 .750 .646 .468 .077 .157 .159 .068 .049 .665 .509 .408 .332 .398 .565 .553 .245 .270 .509 .486 .358 .240 .240 .312 .394 .493 .225 .618 .510 .240 .559 .325 .380 .275 .362 .738 .374 .320 .231 1.043 1,781.033 11.529 .388 Outsoles, leather1_____________________________________ 84. Ill .892 .637 Insoleis: Die out..................................... ........................................ Sort and c a s e ................................................................ 13.211 95.623 .110 .750 .500 .471 108.834 .860 .474 158.915 55.330 113.788 423.179 1.314 .587 1.033 3.253 Perforate tips........................................................................... Skive vamps..........- ................................................................ Skive quarters...... .................................................................. Stencil case numbers............................................................ Sort and count—..................................................................... Cripple work (girls)............................................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Floor work............ .............................................. .................. Sweep.................................................................. - ................... Organization...... .......................................... - ........................ Total__ T ________ _ _ _ ______ 416.00 276.26 210.39 204.72 112.20 470.37 470.37 235.18 470.37 470.37 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Perforate vamps...................................................................... Double vamps........................................................................ Stitch tips.......... ............................................—..................... Close heel seams..................................................................... Stay heel seams....................................................................... Snip (quarters)........................................................................ Cement quarters................................................................... Fold quarters.......................................................................... Perforate quarters................................................................... Stitch perforated quarters..........................- ........................ Closft heal linings . ............ .... Stay heel linings.......................................... .......................... Stitch quarters to toe linings.............................................. Close toe linings...................................................................... Stitch tops............................................................................... Eyelet....................................................................................... Match vamps.......................................................................... Vamp............................................... .♦...................................... Lace........................................................................................ Tie up....................................................................................... Cripple work....................................................... ................... Floor work......... .................... .............................................. Odd shoe work...................... ................................................ Sweep....................................................................................... Machinists’ work................................................................... Belt repairing......................................................................... Inspect— ...................................... ........................................ Check out work..................................................................... Organization........ ................................................................. T o ta l. _____________ 203.43 226.50 110.83 199.00 226.15 325.30 163.33 45.76 101.74 57.81 179 20 96.00 44.45 97.62 28.94 262.32 90.00 41.23 283.11 150.00 507.74 43.33 58.80 58.80 470.37 470.37 235.18 470.37 470.37 156.79 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total . Counters, leather 1 _ ________ ____ __ ... __ Top pieces1......................... - .................................................. Box toes, leather 1_ . .............................................................. Heels, leather, R/8 L ... _____ _____ 454.16 62.75 — .496 .636 .545 ___ ______ _ .461 1These are purchased. The average-shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. TIME AND LABOR COSTS— NEW ENGLAND DISTRICT, 56 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 9 .— Women’s McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel—Continued. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— Concluded. Stock fitting: Wet outsoles..................................................................... Round outsoles.............................................................. Channel.......................................................................... Mold.................................................................................. Wet channels. .................................................................. Turn channels. ............................................................... Black................................................................................. Feather edge..................................................................... Flesh.................................................................................. Cement and press............................................................ Slash.................................................................................. Mold.................................................................................. Stamp sizes and tie up................................................... Cripple w o rk .................................................................. Inspect..... ......................................................................... General work.............. ..................................................— Organization..................................................................... Total 10.026 16.093 22.979 14.167 5.106 11.489 12.857 8.658 12.987 38.530 6.486 12.396 30.000 $0,050 .130 .180 .030 .040 .090 .060 .060 .090 .180 .040 .070 .140 12.756 12.756 12,756 .060 .079 .197 $a299 .485 .470 .339 .470 .470 .280 .416 .416 .280 .370 .339 .280 .300 .282 .372 .927 20.000 .100 ______________ 26a 042 1.646 .380 Total, sole-leather department__________________ 1,201199 9.585 .478 .060 .262 .127 .074 .575 .282 .470 .587 .910 .702 .783 .624 .937 .825 .678 .377 .544 .405 .791 .378 .510 .587 .320 .427 .771 .370 ,485 .470 .348 .710 598.44 372.83 261.11 423.52 1,17A 08 522.24 46a 67 693.00 462.00 15a 72 925.06 484.03 200.00 300.00 47a 37 470.37 470.37 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Put up soles......................... - .................................................. Match uppers......................................................................... Put up lasts.............................................................................. Tack insoles...................................................... .......... ............ Assemble for pull-over, machine.......................................... Pull over, machine................................................................. Side last, machine............. .................................................... Operate bed machines............................................................ Pound....................................................................................... Pull insole tacks...................................................................... Pull heel tacks and cut strings............................................. Tack shanks.......................................................................... Tack outsoles...... .................................................................. Pull lasts................................................................................... Nail toes___________ ________ ___________ _____________ Put away lasts......................................................................... Scour toes................................................................................. Cripple work............................................................................ Inspect toes.............................................................................. Cobble....................................................................................... Floor work............................................................................... Odd shoe work......................................................................... Operate elevators.................................................................... Organization............................................................................. Total __________ _T_________ 12.756 12.756 17.388 19.351 57.289 5a 727 125.020 142.095 30.564 15.939 15.593 21256 37.037 37.936 25.370 29.412 12.274 4a 875 35.154 12.756 32.400 32.400 16.200 12.756 48.600 .100 .170 .300 .670 .740 1.300 . 2.220 .420 .180 .150 .220 .250 .500 .160 .250 .120 .250 .250 .164 .200 _ _____ 908.904 9.712 .641 W et outsoles............................................................................ M cKay sew.............................................................................. Nail heel seats......................................................................... Cement channels...................... _•............ ................... ........... Level sizes........................................... ................. ................. Wet.leather_____________________________________ _____ Level......................................................................................... Relast....................................................................................... Put away followers............................................ ................. ; Trim edges______________ _______________ _____________ Brush edges.... ................................................. ...................... Case counters_________________________________________ Case heels................................................................................. Prick heels................................................................................ 7.659 68.966 2a 962 31.945 2a 250 5.944 42.972 49.237 23.478 7a 396 30.000 .060 .770 .170 .170 .140 .050 .590 .360 .090 .910 .140 .070 .470 .670 .487 .319 .320 .505 .517 .439 .230 .715 .280 .350 .350 .410 470.37 470.37 345.06 310.06 104.73 10a77 47.99 42.22 19a 31 376.43 384.78 247.36 162.00 158.16 23a 50 204.00 488.84 128.00 17a 68 470.37 185.20 185.20 370.37 470.37 123.46 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. 12.000 20.571 21.951 .120 .150 783.39 87.00 286.23 187.82 228.57 1,009.42 139.63 121.86 255.56 78.54 200.00 500.00 291.67 273.34 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 39. 57 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. N E W E N G L A N D D I S T R I C T —Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 9 .— Women's McKay, patent leather, whole quarter, lace oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Sort for heelers......................................................................... Stick nails................................................................................. Heel........................................................................................... Slug heels.................................................................................. Shave heels............................................................................... _________ ________ _ .. Breast heels Inspect............................. ........................................................ Cobble....................................................................................... Odd shoe work....................................................................... Operate elevatois.................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Set edges................................................................................... Wheel edges............................................................................. Scour heel breasts................................................................... Fill heels................................................................................... Scour heels, first time............................................................ Scour heels, second time........................................................ Veneer heels............................................................................. Pad heels.................................................................................. Black heels............................................................................... Burnish heels........................................................................... Cripple work........................................................................... Scour bottoms................. ...................................................... Naumkeag................................................................................ Dust off..................................................................................... Repair channels....................................................................... Black bottoms......................................................................... Polish bottoms...................................... ................................. Brush uppers........................................................................... Wheel bottoms........................................................................ Pull lasts................................................................................ Cripple work........................................................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Odd shoe work........................................................................ Organization................................................. _•......................... Total.... ...................................... ___ 26.250 64.007 70.128 175.862 53.959 23.529 32.400 16.200 16.200 12.756 32.400 $0.140 .500 .860 .170 .410 .200 .373 .111 .105 .066 .550 $0,320 .469 .736 .580 .456 .510 .691 .411 .389 .310 .550 962.022 7.275 .454 117.947 30.000 23.904 16.098 58.389 25.168 19.765 33.143 30.000 46.154 53.571 30.239 23.027 15.555 22.154 28.016 39.677 37.585 25.946 12.704 18.045 12.756 38.268 12.756 1.540 .140 .110 .110 .580 .250 .140 .290 .140 .500 .250 .430 .250 .070 .120 .240 .410 .360 .160 .130 .100 .089 .223 .197 .783 .280 .276 .410 .596 .596 .425 .525 .280 .650 .280 .853 .651 .270 .325 .514 .620 .576 .370 .614 .333 .419 . 350 .927 770.867 6.829 .532 35.377 156.338 113.938 31.034 13.701 79.639 45.455 32.689 63.830 12.756 25.512 12.756 12.756 12.756 12.756 12.756 .250 1.850 2.000 .500 .150 .140 .500 .250 .310 .500 .117 .187 .096 .064 .072 .119 .236 .424 .710 .300 .263 .290 .613 .377 .330 .569 .470 .550 .440 .452 .301 .339 .560 1.110 1,007.382 7.341 .437 61.047 .474 228.57 93.74 85.56 34.12 111.20 255.00 185.19 370.37 370.37 470.37 185.18 50.87 200.00 251.00 372.72 102.76 238.40 303.56 181.03 200.00 130.00 112.00 198.42 260.56 385.73 27a83 214.16 151.22 159.64 231.25 472.29 332.50 47a37 156.79 470.37 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Put in sock linings.................................................................. Tree, hand................................................................................ Repair............. ........................................................................ Black edges...................... : ...................................................... Lace........................................................................................... Brush edges, heels and bottoms.......................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Make boxes and labels.......................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Cripple work................. ........................................................ Reclean shoes........................................................................... Odd shoe work........................................................................ Stencil cases............................................................................. Nail cases.................................................................................. Shipping labor......................................................................... Ship........................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total_____ ____ Grand total ____ _ ______ _ 333.333 7,722.514 169.60 38.38 18.00 52.66 193.33 437.92 75.34 132.00 183.55 94.00 470.37 235.18 470.37 470.37 470.37 470.37 470.37 58 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 192S, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D IS T R IC T # 0.—Women’s Goodyear welt, black glazed kid, five-eye oxford, perforated outside tip, lace stay, and top of quarter, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. E s ta b lis h m e n t N 4 . Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. CUTTING- DEPARTMENT. Sort stock____________ - __________________- _________ Cut outsides, hand-__ _ ______ ____________ ______ __ _ ___ Cut trimmings, hand . r_ __ ... Hourly wages. 30.000 480.000 240.000 30.000 50.000 18fi 000 40.000 35.000 7a ooo 25.000 40.000 12a ooo $0,370 7.000 2.600 .400 .550 2.130 .270 .270 .920 .200 .200 1.500 $0,740 .875 .650 .800 .660 .710 .405 .463 .789 .480 .306 .750 ___ 1,340.000 16.410 .735 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Open up work _____T„ . _ ____ _____ Pastes vamp linings . T._ . . . . _ _ _ TWfalre linings _______ .__ _________________________ ffiORft tops and stay bank seam _ _ __ _ Stitnta and stay bank vamp line __ __ Fold quarters,"Vamps, tips _ _ _ _ _ ___ Fancy stitch oohar and lace stay on quarters T, ....... _ _ _ Sort and ease ,r ___ _ Support stays___________________ _____ ____________ Stitch edgOS (linings and quarters together) Hyelat _ .... . . Vamp ____ . _ . lnng line toe seam ........ .. . Tier and lace . . . . . _ Inspect. and trim...... _____ Organization mad general- work 20.000 25.000 195.000 120.000 90.000 300.000 270.000 75.000 O A« A DA OU WV 180.000 35.000 34a 000 150.000 93.000 260.000 400.000 .125 .250 1.950 .910 .710 2.800 3.150 .500 .500 2.500 .400 4.550 1.500 .510 1.500 3.660 .375 .600 .600 .455 .473 .560 .706 .400 .375 .833 .686 .803 .660 .329 .450 .549 2,573.000 25.515 .595 84.111 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .545 .461 40.000 30.000 25.000 40.000 45.000 40.000 40.000 35.000 30.000 40.000 35.000 80.000 .500 .250 .200 .450 .220 .180 .190 . .170 .170 .300 .180 .830 Cut tne linings, hand ______ Stamp quarter linings * ... Stamp nntsWlftfi_______ ________________________ ___ gkiw* _________ Out anck linings, yokes, etc _ . Assamhie work for fitting room .... ( r»rg^»i7.^t.inn and general work______ I __________ __ Total Total ., ...... _ _ ______ .... SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Antonies, leather1 _ Insoles, leather 1. _ Counters, leather 1 . . _ ._ ■Rot toes, leather * _ ____ __ .... Heels, leather, 8/81 . __ ........ . . Stock fitting: Sort stock . . . . _ _ _ Round ontsoles ._ . . . . . Round insoles. . . . . _ . _ Channel insoles________________________________ Stitch insoles. _. „TT. ____ _ . .. . Fuck gem. machine . . __ _ Reinforce in so le s.___ ________ ______ Form in toe of insole__ . .... ... Stamp work _ ^ . ..... .. _____ __ ... . ... Shank ontsoles.. _ . ___ Lay up cases ....... . _. r , Organization and general work Totsd________________________________________ Total, sola-leather department _ ......... . _. Total_______________ ________________ , 200.00 12:50 25.00 200.00 120.00 33133 15a oo 171.43 85.71 240.00 150. od 50.00 * .750 .500 1 .480 .675 .293 .270 .285 .291 .340 .450 .309 .623 480.000 3.640 .455 1,370.397 11.201 .490 20.000 25.000 480.000 120.000 180.000 80.000 .150 .200 7.500 1.850 3.700 1.000 .450 .480 .938 .925 1.233 .750 905.000 14.400 .955 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Get out lasts _ ^ __ r. Tack insoles. _ ___ . .................... r ........ Assemble for pull-over machine and side last, hand........ Pull over, machine. _ ... r _______ Operate bed machine........................ ........... ....................... Organization and general work ......... Number of pairs worked on per hour. 300.00 m oo 30.77 50.00 66.67 20.00 22.22 80:00 75.00 33.33 171.43 17.65 40.00 64.52 30.00 15.00 150.00 200.00 m oo 150.00 133.33 150.08 150.00 171.43 200.00 150.00 171.43 75.00 300.00 240.00 12.50 50.00 33.33 76.00 si1 ... g - s a 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. ESTABLISHMENT NO. 59 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION-Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C m S T R I C T — Continued. <9.—Women's Goodyear welt, black glazed kid, five-eye oxford, perforated outside tip, lace stay, and top of quarter, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . t. ..................................................................................................................................................................... Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs, Department and operation. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim uppers........................................................................... Staple uppers........................................................................... Pull tacks............................. ........................- ...................... Goodyear welt...................- ................. .............. ................... Pull bottom tacks................................................................... Trim inseams . ....................._.................................................. Beat out welts............................................ — ....................... Put in shanks.......................................................................... Fill bottoms............................................................................ Cement soles............................................................................. Cement bottoms............................................. - ..................... Lay soles................................................................................... Rough round............................... ....................... ................... Turn up channels..........................................- ....................... Goodyear stitch................ ..................................................... Cement channels.................... ................................................ Lay leaf.................................................................................... Pound shanks..................... ................................................... T^v^i _ _ _____________________________________ Sort work (after leveling)...................................................... Heel........................................................................................... Nail seats................................................................................. Rough round heel seats................................... .................... Trim heels..........................— .......................- ....................... Breast heels. ...............- .................................................... Trim edges......... ................... - .....................—....................... Joint heels................................................................................ Organization and general work------------------------------------Total Hourly wages. 30.000 30.000 30.000 120.000 30.000 60.000 5a ooo 45.000 45.000 35.000 35.000 60.000 55.000 35.000 130.000 30.000 30.000 40.000 70.000 25.000 60.000 30.000 30.000 35.000 50.000 40.000 160.000 30.000 40.000 10.330 .300 .370 2.250 .370 .600 .500 .250 .300 .150 .150 .750 1.250 .200 2.400 .160 .200 .400 .880 .350 1.150 .250 .200 .350 1.000 .400 2.750 .500 1.100 10.660 .600 .740 1.125 .740 .600 .606 .333 .400 .257 .257 .750 1.364 .343 1.108 .320 .400 .600 .754 .840 1.150 .500 .400 .600 1.200 .600 1.031 1.000 1.650 1,460.000 19.860 .816 50.000 100.000 210.000 20.000 30.000 60.000 65.000 45.000 75.000 25.000 45.000 25.000 40.000 35.000 20.000 220.000 .500 1.800 3.500 .360 .420 .000 .900 .400 1.500 .250 .750 .150 .200 .400 .150 2.430 .600 1.080 1.000 1.080 .840 .600 .831 .533 1.200 .600 1.000 .360 .300 .686 .450 .663 1,065.000 14.310 .806 50.000 180.000 50.000 120.000 60.000 75.000 60.000 20.000 30.000 135.000 .350 1.500 .400 .850 .300 .750 .400 .170 .500 .950 .420 .500 .480 .425 .300 .600 .400 .510 1.000 .422 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 200.00 200.00 200; 00 50.00 200,00 ioooo 12000 133.33 133.33 171.43 171.43 100.00 109.09 171.43 46.15 200.00 200 00 150.00 85 71 240 00 100.00 200.00 200.00 171.43 120.00 15000 37.50 200.00 150 00 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heel breasts................................................................... Scour heels............................................... .......... ..................... Set edges.....................................................- ............................ Ink heels............ ................. ..................... .............................. Roll heels................................................................................. Buff bottoms.......................................................................... Naumkeag................................................................................ Ink bottoms............................................................................ Finish bottoms...................................................................... Wheel seats................. ....................................... .................... Burnish heels................................................... ...................... Wheel........................................................................................ Clean......................................................................................... Pull lasts................................................. ............................... Put away lasts........................................................................ Organization and general work............................................ Total _______ . . . . _______ 120.00 60.00 28.57 300.00 200.00 100.00 92.31 133.33 80 00 240.00 133.33 240.00 15000 171.43 300.00 27.27 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Sock linings........ .................................................................... Clean and iron by hand......................................................... Dress......................................................................................... Cobble............... - ...........................................- ....................... Inspect.................................................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Stamp cartons--.......................................... - ......................... Organization and general work............................................ Total ______________________ 1 ______________ Grand total .... _ 780.000 6.170 .475 9,493.397 107.866 .682 120.00 33.33 12000 5000 m oo 80 00 ioooo 30000 200.00 44.44 60 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATIO N —Continued-. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 7 . — Women’s Goodyear welt, tan calf, lace oxford, with tip, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUMING DEPARTMENT. Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand....................................... Cut linings, hand _ _ Cut trimmings, hand _ _____ _______ __ _ _ ___ _ _ Skive uppers Mark for"perforations_ ___ _ __ Perforate tips _ ___ „__ Perforate vamps and foxings _ _____ ___ General w o r k _ 7 __ _ ___. . . . ..... Organization___ _ . _ _ _ _ ____ ...... 720.000 72.000 150.000 65.000 60.000 60.000 210.000 6a ooo m ooo Total.........*..................................................................... iaooo .600 1.125 .550 .225 .300 .788 .300 1.000 $0,500 .560 .450 .508 .225 .300 .225 .300 .500 1,517.000 , & 33 83 33 4<X00 92.31 ioaoo 100.00 28.57 100.00 50.00 ia888 .439 Join................................................................... ......................... Make linings _ _ _ _ _ _ _____ ____ Rnhseams.__ . . . ___ ___ Stay seams . __ _____ .................... Cement Fold_______________ _ •_ Close tops___ r. Pinking vamps and foxings ____ __ Backstay Stitch tops _____ Eyelet _ ___ •_. Bar . _ _ Vamp . ...... _ Toe u p ______ _ _ _ _ : _________ Lace. _ ________ Sort and tie up __ __________ ___ _ General work. _ _ llirT . Organization___ „ . . . . . ________ 70.000 105.000 .400 .525 .343 .300 25.000 s a ooo 3 a ooo 60.000 60.000 285.000 60.000 90.000 40.000 90.000 27a 000 90.000 45.000 e a ooo 80.000 80.000 .108 .215 .200 .500 .500 .300 .565 .220 .338 1.600 .450 .248 .225 .500 1.570 .259 .258 .400 .500 .500 .303 .300 .377 .330 .225 .356 .300 .331 .225 .375 1.178 Total............................................................................... 1,590.000 9.904 .373 15.000 3 a ooo .125 .213 .073 .083 .025 .500 .426 .438 .498 .300 70.000 .519 .445 15.000 15.000 10.000 5.000 .125 .075 .500 400.00 .300 .050 .025 .300 .300 400.00 600.00 1,200.00 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. 1.440 85.71 57.14 24a 00 12a oo 200.00 100.00 100.00 21.05 100.00 66.67 150.00 66.67 22.22 66.67 133.33 100.00 75.00 75.00 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Strip leather _ __ _ T________ _ ,, -Cut _ _ _________ _ Skive and grade _____ _____ Sort— _ __ ___ ..... _ Case_______ ; ______ ________________ ________ ____ Total............................................................................... Insoles: Strip leather...................................................................... Cut— ___ ____ _ Sort— _____ _ r Case.................................... .............................................. Total_____________________ ____ Counters, leather1______________ Box toes, leather1 Heels, leather, 8 /8 1______________ _ ___ _ _____ ____ _ Stock fitting: Get out outsoles. ___________ ______ ____ llT1,, , Shank outsoles __ Cement outsoles __ _ _________ .... Temper outsoles _______ Channel insoles............_................................................. Clip insoles____ ___ __ ______ Stamp insoles __ ____ Cement insoles Form soles.— . . . ___________ Reenforce soles ___________ Tie up insoles _ _ i _________ _ Organization.:________ : _____ ___ _ _______ Total_____T__________________________ Total, sole-leather department _________ T . 1These are purchased. sentative establishments. 10.000 10.000 5.000 45.000 .275 .367 158.915 113.788 423.179 1.314 1.033 3.253 .496 10.000 405.000 .083 .125 .125 .050 .238 .042 .042 .063 .104 .625 .063 .667 2.227 .498 .300 .300 .300 .476 .252 .252 .252 .250 .250 .252 .560 .330 ..1,215.882 8.621 .425 25.000 25.000 ia o o o 3 a ooo ia o o o 10.000 15.000 25.000 15a ooo 15.000 s a ooo 400.00 2oaoo 600.00. 600.00 1,200.00 .545 .461 600.00 24a 00 24a 00 600.00 260.00 600.00 600.00 400.00 240.00 40.00 400.00 75.00 The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre Seepp 132-140. ESTABLISHMENT NO. *7. 61 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC E s ta b lis h m e n t N o D I S T R I C T — Continued. 7.—Women’s Goodyear welt, tan calf, lace oxford, with tip, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift— Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Get up lasts................................... Tack on insoles............................ Get out counters.......................... Assemble for pull-over machine. Pull over, machine...................... Side last, machine....................... Operate bed machine. ............ Organization................................. 15.000 20.000 5.000 120.000 120.000 120.000 120.000 40.000 $0,063 .083 .021 .750 1.250 1.250 1.250 .333 $0.252 .249 .252 .375 .625 .625 .625 .500 Total.................................... 560.000 5.000 .536 30.000 30.000 30.000 30.000 120.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 30.000 15.000 80.000 80.000 80.000 190.000 30.000 30.000 95.000 50.000 30.000 120.000 120.000 60.000 30.000 30.000 150.000 60.000 40.000 .333 .333 .333 ‘ .250 1.000 .250 .250 .225 .225 .250 .250 .225 .063 .600 .750 .290 1.650 .125 .215 .743 .300 .150 .600 .650 .567 .283 .200 1.500 .400 .333 .666 .666 .666 .500 .500 .250 .250 .225 .225 .250 .250 .450 .252 .450 .563 .218 .521 .250 .430 .469 .360 .300 .300 .325 .567 .566 .400 .600 .400 .500 1,920.000 13.343 .418 Scour breasts............................................................. Scour heels................................................................. Ink and set edges..................................................... Ink heels..................................................................... Brush edges............................................................... Burnish heels............................................................ Buff............................................................................. Naumkeag................... - ............................................ Finish......................................................................... Pull lasts.................................................................. Organization.............................................................. 60.000 120.000 240.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 120.000 40.000 80.000 100.000 40.000 .400 .850 1.900 .400 .325 .325 .800 .267 .533 .500 .333 .400 .425 .475 .400 .325 .325 .400 .401 .400 .300 .500 Total................................................................ 980.000 6.633 .406 17.000 20.000 80.000 180.000 80.000 400.000 300.000 .085 .100 .333 2.500 .333 1.723 1.667 .300 .300 .250 .833 .250 .259 .333 400.00 300.00 1,200.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 150.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Staple.................................. Pull tacks....................... . Trim uppers...................... Put on covers.................... Inseam (Goodyear welt) Pull insole tacks.............. . Trim insaams___________ Beat welts.......................... Tack in shanks................ . Fill bottoms..................... . Lay soles........................... . Tack soles...................... . Cement soles..................... Rough round.................... Rough edges...................... Open channels................. . Goodyear stitch............... . Cement channels.............. Lay channels..................... Level............ ..................... Nail heel seats. ............... Trim heel seats................ Help heeler. ................. Trim heels... Breast heels.. Align heels... Trim edges... Make points . Organization. Total.. 200.00 , 200.00 200.00 200.00 50.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 200.00 400.00 75.00 s 75.00* 75.00 31.58 200.00 200.00 63.10 120.00 200.00 50.00 50.00 100.00 200.00 200.00 40.00 100.00 150.00 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 100.00 50.00 25.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 50.00 150.00 75.00 60.00 150.00 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Stamp soles................................................................ Sort.............................................................................. Sock linings.............................................................. Tree, hand........................................ ^....................... Dress.. ....................................................................... Crayon patent leathers............................................ Bull tips............... : .................................................... 84791°— 24t----- 5 352.94 300.00 75.00 33.33 75.00 15.00 20.00 62 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF MX) PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued E s ta b lis h m e n t No. 7.—Women's Goodyear welt, tan call, lace oxford, with tip, leather sole, heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. SIS leather Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Repair patent leathers. _____________ . . . ____________ Patent leather flowers....................................................... Brush................................................................................. Stamp sock linings............ - .............................................. Pound uppers.................................................................... Stamp cartons................................................................. Crown................................................ *............................. B ack ..................................... ........................................... General work (shipping)................................................... Organization.................................................. - ................. Total........................................................................ Grand'tpfel _ T 600.000 60.000 50.000 45.000 20.000 25.000 10.000 300.000 75.000 120.000 120.000 75.000 $3,000 .300 .188 .225 .100 .093 .050 1.375 .385 .593 .727 .420 $0,300 .300 .226 .300 .300 .223 .300 .275 .308 .297 .364 .336 2. 577.000 14.199 .331 10,359.882 68.588 .397 iaoo moo 120.00 133.33 300.00 24a00 600.00 20.00 80.00 50.00 50.00 80.00 E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 1 .—Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Stamp size on outsides--------------------------1Cut feather quarter linings, hand___ _ Cut doth vamp linings, band................... Cut doth vamp doubler, hand................. Stamp size on quarter linings.................... Stamp size on vamp linings....................... Stamp stock No. on toe linings............ Skive vamps................................................. Skive toes........... - ........................................ Skive tips....................................................... Skive tops and front of quarters............... Skive shank of quarters........ ............. — Skive back seam of quarters..................... Skive edges and bottom of tongues......... Perforate circular vamps........................... Perforate regular tips.................................. Perforate front of quarters............... .......... Assemble................................................... Dink trimmings........................................... Cut cripples.................................................. Operate elevators.............. ......................... Sweep............................................................. Organization............... ........... ................ 72.000 72.000 400.000 72.000 14.000 140.000 32.000 16.000 7.000 15.000 8.000 23.000 13.000 12.000 34.000 46.000 20.000 16.000 75.000 75.000 41.000 36.000 108.000 36.000 36.000 72.000 36.000 $0,590 .310 4.050 .720 .083 .960 .300 .150 .038 .083 .045 .150 .090 .083 .225 .300 .135 .120 .390 .390 .225 .225 .375 .375 .160 .320 .740 • $0,492 .258 .608 .600 .356 .411 .563 .563 .326 .332 .338 .391 .415 .415 .397 .391 .405 .450 .312 .312 .329 .375 .208 .625 .267 .267 1.233 Total................................................... ,527.000 11.632 .457 28.000 29.000 24.000 24.000 108.000 100.000 65.000 32.000 48.000 48.000 36.000 48.000 115.000 58.000 70.000 178.000 .180 .195 .105 .105 .660 .600 .390 .195 .195 .195 .110 .195 .600 .360 .420 1.200 .386 .403 .263 .263 .367 .360 .360 .366 .244 .244 .183 ,244 .313 .372 .360 .405 Stock-room work................. - - - I ............................ Selecting patterns for cutters............................... Cut vamps, quarters, tips, and tongues, hand. 83.33 83.33 15.00 83.33 428.57 42.86 187.50 375.00 857.14 400.00 750.00 260.87 461.54 500.00 176.47 130.43 300.00 375.00 80.00 80.00 146.34 16a 67 55.56 16a 67 166.67 83.33 166.67 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Close back seam of quarters...................... . Close back seam of leather quarter linings. Rub back seam of quarters.......................... . Rub back seam of leather quarter linings.. Stitch toe linings to quarter linings............. Stitch hold fast to quarter linings............... . Stitch tongue to toe linings........................ .. Stay back seam of quarters................... ; ___ Cement vamp doubler to vamps............... . Cement top and front of quarters................ Back up work................................................. . Cement cloth eyelet stays to lining........... Fold top and front of quarters...................... Stitch tips to vamps............... .................... . Stitch perforated eyelet rows........................ Stitch tops..— . . . . . _________ ___________ 214.29 206.90 250.00 250.00 55.56 60.00 92131 187.50 12a 00 12a 00 166.67 125.00 52.17 103.45 85.71 33.71 ESTABLISHMENT NO. U . 63 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued. ^ E sta b lish m e n t N o . 1 1 .—Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. 8TITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. •F.Ytra for pnttmg i™ynkas ............. ___ Trim quarters..!__ ____ __ ,_________________ _______ Rtftin quarters _ ___________^___________ ____ _ Set eyelets________________________________ - _______ Stitch tongue linings to tongues_____________________ Vamp___: _______ : ________________________________ Tack (barring)_____________________________________ Lace ______ ______ ________ __ ______ _____________ Pack and inspect . . , ___ General instructor____ __ _______ ,_____ ________ __ _ Work on damaged parts Sweep_______ I__ I________________________________ Organization__ ..... ... .. . _ _________ 17.000 72.000 30.000 52.000 70.000 262.000 38.000 38.000 36.000 288.000 108.000 36.000 36.000 $0,120 .300 .135 .360 .480 2.100 .180 .180 .165 2.640 .435 .115 .650 $0,424 .250 .270 .415 .411 .481 .284 . 284 .275 .550 .242 .192 1.083 Total........................................................................ 2,094.000 13.565 .389 84. I ll 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .545 .461 12.000 18.000 12.000 35.000 8.000 40.000 .053 .150 .053 .330 .030 .225 .265 .500 .J265 .506 .225 .338 .352.94 83.33 200.00 115.38 85.71 22.90 157.89 157.89 166.67 20.83 55.56 166.67 166.67 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather1__________________________________ Insoles, leather1__________ _________________________ Dountete, leather1___ _ _ _ __ B oy toes, leather i „ n Heels, women’s, 8/81.......... .................. - ......................... Stock fitting: Wet UP insoles ..... _ . . Rouna insoles__________________ „______________ Stamp size on insoles___________________________ Channel insoles plash shank insoles ... _ Turn up lip on insoles_______ ___________________ Recase insoles_________________ ___ _______ _____ Wet np, skivA, and teg outsoles _ __ Stamp size on outsoles_______________ __ _________ Skive shank of outsole__________________ __________ Split, cement, and stick outsoles_________________ Cement outsoles for sole layer_______ ____________ Recase outsoles.______________- _________________ Sort............................................................................. flaw np heels . . _ _n General help.. _________________________________ Tie up insoles__________________________________ Sweep ...... Organization _ _ Total , _ ______________________ 6.000 10.000 12.000 11.500 27.000 26.000 6.000 36.000 36.000 36.000 36.000 36.000 36.000 .038 .075 .053 .090 .210 .150 . 038 .345 .185 .313 .150 .160 .540 .380 .450 .265 .470 .467 .346 .380 .575 .308 .522 .250 .267 .900 439. 500 3.188 .435 1,329.897 10.749 .485 36.000 25.000 19.000 44.000 Trim heel seats of insoles______________________________ 14.000 Get up counters and box toes_____________ ____ ______ 13.000 Assemble for pull-over machine_______________________ 120.000 Pull over, machine __ * 106.000 Side last 108.000 Last heel and toe,. _ _____ ___ _____________ 200.000 Inspect_______________________________________________ 72.000 36.000 Odd shoe work____________________________________ 18.000 Sweep_____ _______________________________________ Organization „„ 36.000 .120 .210 .075 .315 .090 .075 .900 1.080 1.080 2.040 .625 .100 .080 .630 .200 .504 .237 .430 .386 .346 .450 .611 .612 .521 .167 .267 1.050 7.420 .527 Total, sole-leather department_________________ 500.00 333.33 500.00 171.43 750.00 150.00 1000.00 600.00 500.00 521.74 222.22 230.77 1,000.00 166.67 166.67 166.67 166.67 166.67 166.67 ___ _ LASTING DEPARTMENT. Supervise last bind _ Oat ” P and dump lasts _ . Paint toe and heel of last Tack insoles „ ............ , Total , * ...^ „ ,. , _ — , ____ 845.000 1-= -^ - ...... ~ . Gil 166.67 240.00 315.79 136.36 428.57 461.54 50,00 56.60 56.60 30.00 83.33 166.67 333.33 166.67 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-110. 64 T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR IC T. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923. B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued. Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bid. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 1 .— Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim uppers............................................................................ Staple uppers........................................................................... Puh tacks................................................................................. Goodyear welt.............................................. ......................... Pull insole tacks...................................................................... Trim inseams.......................................................................... Butt and tack welts............................................................... Beat out welts................... .................................................... Put in shanks.......................................................................... Fill bottoms............................................................................. Cement bottoms............... ..................................................... Lay soles.................................................................................. Rough round........................................................................... Turn up channels................................................................... Trim out shanks of soles....................................................... Goodyear stitch...................................................................... Pound shank of sole to uppers............................................ Cement channels.................................................................... Lay channels........................................................................... Level......................................................................................... Loose nail................................................................................. Rough round heel seats........................................................ Heel base for rubber top.............................. ........................ Heel rubber top, machine..................................................... Shave heels............................ ................................................. Breast heels.............................................................................. Trim edges. ........................................................................... Make joints.............................................................................. Put on heel filler...................................... ............................. Cobble....................................................................................... Odd shoe work........................................................................ Inspect..................................................................................... General help........................................................................... Sweep. ..................................................................................... Organization........................................................... ............... Total _________________________________________ Hourly wages. 33.000 55.000 95.000 135.600 43.000 54.000 69.000 47.000 35.000 45.000 30.000 54.000 58.000 32.000 32.000 161.000 30.000 35.000 45.000 71.000 41.000 26.000 40.000 42.000 36.000 30.000 160.000 51.000 19.000 36.000 36.000 36.000 72.000 18.000 72.000 $0,195 .300 .540 1.380 .165 .390 .420 .270 .150 .270 .135 .390 .600 .165 .195 1.650 .210 .165 .240 .540 .240 .150 .540 .600 .330 .240 1.620 .390 .090 .270 .180 .310 .290 .080 1.110 $0,355 .327 .341 .613 .230 .433 .365 .345 .257 .360 .270 .433 .621 .309 .366 .615 .420 .283 .320 .456 .351 .346 .810 .857 .550 .480 .608 .459 .284 .450 .300 .517 .242 .267 .925 1,874.000 14.810 .474 65.000 38.000 162.000 24.000 46.000 18.000 72.000 92.000 72.000 25.000 140.000 46.000 65.000 52.000 20.000 36.000 36.000 18.000 36.000 .540 .195 1.650 .210 .270 .150 .600 .780 .600 .135 .720 .390 .270 .360 .105 .180 .160 .080 .540 .498 .308 .611 .525 .352 .500 .500 .509 .500 .324 .309 .509 .249 .415 .315 .300 .267 .267 .900 1,063.000 7.935 .448 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 181.82 109.09 63.16 44.44 139.53 111. 11 86.96 127.66 171.43 133.33 200.00 111. 11 103.45 187.50 187.50 37.27 200.00 171.43 133.33 84.51 146.34 23ft 77 150.00 142.86 166.67 200.00 37.50 117.65 315.79 166.67 166.67 166.67 83.33 333.33 83.33 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels............................................................................... Scour breasts .......................................................................... Set edges................................................................................ Rescour heels........................................................................... Scour edge of rubber heels................................................... Stain heel edges................................. .................................... Burnish heels.......................................................................... Buff bottoms........................................................................... Naumkeag foreparts and shanks........................................ Bleach bottoms....................................................................... Paint foreparts and shanks................................................. Burnish and roll bottoms. ................................................... Cleaning rubber heels........................................................... Pull la sts............................................................................... Stamp monograms on bottoms............................................ Stamp shanks.......................................................................... General help............................................................................ Sweep. .................................... ................................. .............. Organization............................................................................ Total _ ____ _*_______ r____ ___ 92.31 157.89 37.04 250.00 130.43 333.33 83.33 65.22 83.33 240.00 42.86 130.43 92.31 115.38 300.00 166.67 166.67 333.33 166.67 65 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 12, TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued. Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, solid leather insole and outsole, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 1 .— Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Inspect for insole tacks________________________________ Put in heel piece______________________________________ Brush around edge of sole stitches_____________________ 8 i7 .A n n t f o r tr A A S , pt.p. _ _ C 1 « a n A r ig a s _ _ _ _ Tree, machine_______________________________________ Brush to a bright finish_______________________________ Brush to a bright finish, second time__________________ Brush heels, edges, and b ottom s.____________________ Dress u ppers.__ _____________________________________ Put on second coat of filler____________________________ Lace_____ ____________________ ______ ________________ Label cartons_________________ ________ _____ ________ Pack________________________________________ ________ Inspect.,____________________________________________ Seal and stencil_______________________________________ O dd shr>A w ork _ . . . . . . . . .. . _ Odd jobs_______ ______________________________________ Operate elevators_____________________________________ Repair_______________________________________________ Ship........................................................................................... , . . . O r g a n i z a t i o n ___ . . 25.000 22.000 34.000 12.000 42.000 220.00 40.000 54.000 34.000 58.000 40.000 50.000 26.000 40.000 72.000 36.000 36.000 36.000 36.000 360.000 36.000 36.000 $0.165 .120 .180 .053 .360 1.830 .270 .360 .225 .300 .210 .225 .120 .210 .600 .225 .140 .110 .150 2.880 .440 .580 $0,396 .327 .318 .265 .514 .499 .405 .400 .397 .310 .315 .270 .277 .315 .500 .375 .233 .183 .250 .480 .733 .967 Total.............................................................................. 1,345.000 9.753 .435 Grand total________ _____ ______________________ 10,077.897 75.864 .452 240.00 272.73 176.47 500.00 142.86 27.27 150.00 111. 11 176.47 103.45 150.00 120.00 230.77 150.00 83.33 166.67 166.67 166.67 166.67 16.67 166.67 166.67 E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 2 .—Women’s McKay, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole, natural finish, 8/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT Stock-room work................................................................... Selecting patterns for cutters.............................................. Cut vamps, quarters, tips, and tongues, hand............... Stamp sizes on outsides......................................................... Cut leather quarter linings, hand................... - ................. Cut cloth toe linings, hand.................................................. Cut cloth vamp doublers, hand.......................................... Stamp size on leather quarter linings................................. Stamp size on cloth toe linings............................................ Stamp stock No. on toe linings........................................... Skive raw vamps.................................................................... Skive toes of cut off vamps.................................................. Skive tips............... .................................................................. Skive top and front of quarters............................................ Skive shank of quarters,....................................................... Skive back seam of quarters................................................ Skive edge and bottom of tongues....................................... Perforate circular vamps....................................................... Perforate regular tips............................................................. Perforate front of quarters.................................................... Back up work......................................................................... Dink trimmings...................................................................... Cut cripples............................................................................. Operate elevators.................................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Organization........................................................................... Tntal____ _________________________________ 32.000 32.000 337.000 48.000 13.000 150.000 30.000 15.000 5.000 12.000 6.000 22.000 13.000 10.000 35.000 25.000 22.000 10.000 60.000 13.000 35.000 16.000 64.000 24.000 16.000 32.000 16.000 $0,265 .133 3.540 .470 .083 .900 .270 .135 .030 .075 .038 .135 .083 .060 .210 .150 .135 .060 .360 .083 .210 .065 .275 .250 .080 .140 .240 $0,497 .249 .630 .588 .383 .360 .540 .540 .360 .375 .380 .368 .383 .360 .360 .360 .368 .360 .360 .383 .360 .244 .258 .625 .300 .263 .900 1,093.000 8.475 .465 187.50 187.50 17.80 125.00 461.54 40.00 200.00 400.00 1,200.00 500.00 1,000.00 272.73 461.54 600.00 171.43 240.00 272.73 600.00 100.00 461.54 171.43 375.00 93.75 250.00 375.00 187.50 375.00 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— 43EN TBAL A T L A N T IC D ISTR ICT. TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 160 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E tio M tilm e n t N o . 7J.—Women's McKay, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole, nat ural finish, 3/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Cwatimied. .......... Department andoperation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT. 26.000 24.000 28.000 26.000 100. OPO 72.000 55.000 30.000 37.000 41.000 37.000 90.000 50.000 75.000 162.000 18.000 33.000 37.000 59.000 30.000 224.000 45.000 33.000 36.000 16.000 96.000 64.000 16.000 16.000 $0,165 .150 . 115 .106 .600 .435 .330 .180 .150 .165 .150 .540 .300 .375 1.080 .120 .135 .150 .390 .180 1.680 .180 .135 .143 .140 1.050 .310 .055 .260 00.381: .375 .240; ,242 .360 .362 .360 .360 .243 .241 .243 .360 .360 .300 .400 .400 .245 • .243 .397 .360 .450 .240 .245 .238 .525 .056 .291 .208 .975 1,576.000 ! 0.708 .372 Outsoles, leather1________. . . . _____ ...... Insoles, leather1................ — ............. .— Counters, leather1-----------. . . ______ . . . . . . . Bos toes, leather1............. ............................. Beds, leather, 8 /8 1.......... ............................. 84.111 116.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 __ _____ . 545 .461 Stock fitting: Wet up, Strive, and roll outsoles__ . . . . Stamp size on outsoles.............. . . . . . . . Round outsoles................................. ..... Channel _________ ________ ____. . . . . . . Feather edge............... ............................ Turn up channels on outsoles........ ..... Mold outsoles............... .......................... Black or tan soles...... ................. Put antisqueak on outsoles................... . Round insoles........... .................... Dip insoles............................................... Inspect......................... ............................ Odd shoe work......... ........................ . Sort............................................................. Dink........................... ...............-----------Get up outsole sto c k ................ ........... Sweep............................ .......................... General porter work.................... ......... •Organization............... ............................ 20.000 9.000 20.000 22.000 18.000 24.000 12.000 15.000 10.000 16.000 12.000 16.000 16.000 32.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 Close back seam of quarters________ ___. . . Close back -seam of leather quarter linings. Rub back seam of quartern............................ Rub back seam of leather quarter linings.. SttUdi toe lining to quarter linings----------giifcdh hold-fast to quarter linings----- — s titch tongue to toe linings........................... -Stay back seam of quarters-........................ Cement vamp doubler to vamps-------------Cement top «nd front of quarters------- ..... Cement cloth -eyelet stay to linings............ Fold top and front of quarters..............— Jftftdh tip to vamps..............................- ........ £t&c£i perforated eyelet rows................— St&ch tops— —....................................... ........ ExJra for putting in yokes.................. ........ Trim quarters. . .................. . Btain quarters. ............................................... get eyelets........ ....................................... ........ gtijtdh tongue.linings to tongues........ ..... . . . Vamp......................................- ........................ Tack (barring)............... ................................ Lace.............— ---------------------------------------Pack and inspect_____________ — Selecting quality............... ............................. General instructor......................................... Work on damaged parts................................ Organization.. Total— „ 28ft 77 moo 21429 230.77 moo 88.33 m ®9 mm 162.16 146.34 162.16 06.67 12ft 00 8ft 00 37.04 333.33 181.82 162.16 301.69 200.60 26.79 183.33 181.82 166.67 375.00 62.50 93.75 375.00 375.00 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. .120 .038 .165 .195 .135 .120 .090 .060 .075 .135 .053 . 110. .065' .300 .115 .110 .055 .065 .230 .360 .253; .495 .532 .450 .300 .450 .240 .237 .506 ,265 .413 .244 .563 .431 .413 .206 ,244 .863 T otal................................................. .... 331.000 2.236 .405 Total, sole-leather department____ _ i , 221.397 8.797 .481 300.00 666.67 300.00 272.73 333.33 250.00 500.00 400.00 315.79 375.00 500.00 375.60 375.00 187.50 375.00 375.00 375.00 375.00 375.00 V" 1111 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140.. E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 12. 67 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women's McKay, whole quarter, bal. oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole, natural finish, 3/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 2 .— Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pail’s Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. 27.000 16.000 33.000 80.000 Hang uppers, case counters, etc......... Stock-room work............................... Tack insoles to last.............................. Assemble, indudes welting tips......... Cement counters.................................. Wet sides of vamp.......................... Pull over, machine............................. . Last cap and plain toe (no box)........ Tack in shanks and pull insole tacks. Pound toes........................................... .. Lay soles.................. .............. ............... Pull lasts___________________________ Floor work________ _____ _________ _ Inspect................................ : ................. Iron toes................................................. Odd shoe work............. ....................... Utility work....................................... . Sweep...................................................... Organization................. ...................... . 17.000 71.000 180.000 60.000 72.000 136.000 39.000 16.000 48.000 32.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 Total....................... .................... $0,225 .055 .225 .600 .075 .075 .750 1.860 .300 .263 .140 .340 .140 .060 .070 .065 .235 $0,500 .206 .409 .450 .450 .265 .634 .620 .300 .450 .450 .405 .525 .425 .263 .300 .263 .244 .881 901.000 7.058 .470 27.000 57.000 30.000 27.000 25.000 60.000 40.000 40.000 37.000 25.000 15.000 45.000 140.000 40.000 24.000 16.000 16.000 32.000 .165 .600 .150 .165 .150 .450 .540 .540 .330 .210 .075 .300 1.470 .300 .150 .065 .080 .440 367 632 300 696.000 6.180 533 27.000 16.000 36.000 27.000 17.000 94.000 15.000 .225 .068 .180 .225 .083 .990 .060 500 255 300 500 293 632 240 360 497 240 300 498 497 240 10.000 L. U iU 222.22 375.00 181.82 75.00 600.00 352.94 84.51 33.33 100.00 83.33 44.12 153.85 375.00 125.00 187.50 375.00 375.00 375.00 375.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Nail heel seats................................. M cKay sew....................................... Size out and cement channels____ Lay channels.................................... Fudge edges......................... ............ L evel.. ............................................. Heel, leather base______ _________ Heel, rubber top lift...................... . Shave heels....................................... Breast............................................... Wipe off second last......... ________ Relast, includes getting out relast. Trim edges........................................ Joint.................................................. Inspect............................................. . Odd shoe work............... ................. Sweep................................................ Organization_____________ _____ _ Total....................................... 360 450 810 810 535 504 300 400 450 375 244 300 825 222.22 105.26 200.00 222.22 240.00 100.00 150.00 150.00 162.16 240.00 400. GO 133.33 42.86 150.00 250.00 375.00 375.00 187.50 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels.................................................... Put on filler after scouring......................... Scour breasts......................................... ...... Rescour heels............................................... Brush rubber dust from edges of soles... Set edges once (includes doping edges).. Change shoes from partition to pin r& ck . Black or stain heel edges........ .................. Burnish heels........................ ...................... Inspect case numbers................................. Prick heels........................... ........................ Buff bottoms................................................ Buff shanks.................................................. Bleach bottoms___________ __________ _ Clean uppers................................................ Stain............................................................. Polish mahogany bottoms........................ Roll bottoms............................................. . Pull lasts................................................... . Odd shoe work.................... ...................... Inspect___‘........ ............................................ Sweep...... ................................................... Finish................................... ........................ Total____ 20.000 58.000 15.000 16.000 47.000 29.000 30.000 .120 .480 .080 .390 .240 .120 .210 25.000 58.000 43.000 31.000 32.000 32.000 16.000 16.000 .205 504 497 502 406 225 469 300 769 742.000 5.491 444 .480 .360 .210 .120 .250 222.22 375.00 166.67 222.22 852.94 400.00 300.00 103.45 400.00 375.00 127.66 206.90 200.00 142.86 240.00 103.45 139.53 193.55 187.50 187.50 375.00 375.00 68 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR IC T, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued. Women’s McKay, whole quarter, bal, oxford, mahogany side, 8-iron oak sole, natural finish, 3/8 leather heel base with 3/8 rubber top lift—Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . I t . — Department and operation. Time cost : of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Stamp mnnngrams _ . .. _ _ . Pnt in sock linings . ___ . . . . . . . . Sort for treers______________________ ....________________ Tree, machine . . . L______ _ _ _ Dress ________________________________________________ Apply polish , . ________ Brush to ft bright finish ____ __ Brush heels, edges, and bottoms _. _ ___ ______ Trim threads____________ _ _______________________ _ Lace _ ___ __ _________________________ Stamp labels , ___ L abel........................................................................................ Pack _______ ____________ _______________________ - _ In sp ect__ - __________________________________________ Odd shoe work_______________________________________ General work _______________ ____________________ ___ Operate elevators, ........._ _ _ _ _ Seal for shipping______________________________________ Ship _ _ __ __ _ _ _ __ Organisation , 21.000 84.000 13.000 144.000 33.000 60.000 36.000 42.000 45.000 53.000 11.000 24.000 54.000 96.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 16.000 Total.............................................................................. Grand total___ _________________________________ Hourly wages. $0.105 .420 .053 1.200 .165 .300 .180 .210 .180 .210 .045 .120 .270 .610 .065 .065 .080 .080 .175 .250 $0,300 .300 .245 .500 .300 .300 .300 .300 .240 .238 .245 .300 .300 .381 .244 .244 .300 .300 .656 .938 812.000 4.783 .353 7,041.397 51.552 .439 Number of. pairs worked on per hour. 285.71 71.43 461.54 41.67 181.82 100.00 166.67 142.86 133.33 113.21 545.45 250.00 111. 11 62.50 375.00 375.00 375.00 375.00 375.00 375.00 Women’s McKay, whole quarter, lace oxford, five eyelets, glazed kid, broad vamp, plain toe, tan forepart, black shank, leather sole, 8/8 heel. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .— CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Sort and select leather................................ Put up jobs in stock room......................... Cut vamps and whole shoe, hand............ Cut top linings, hand................................. Cut top trimmings, hand.......................... Stamp............................................................ Skive>............................ ............................... Perforate.- .1 ................................................ Odd shoe work............................................. Operate elevators............................ ............ Organization................................................. 25.000 25.000 468.000 54.000 132.000 68.000 83.000 84.000 25.000 25.000 25.000 $0,390 .300 7.250 .650 1.380 .450 .830 .700 .130 .090 .860 $0,936 .720 .929 .722 .627 .397 .600 .500 .312 .216 2.064 Total.................................................... 1,014.000 13.030 .771 156.000 35.000 36.000 18.000 228.000 80.000 44.000 35.000 34.000 21.000 21.000 162.000 96.000 44.000 300.000 72.000 25.000 32.000 21.000 70.000 134.000 75.000 42.000 25.000 25.000 12.500 25.000 25.000 1.100 .220 .250 .100 1.900 .400 .200 .200 .220 .120 .120 1.500 .550 .400 3.650 .500 .160 .210 .120 .400 .850 .700 .250 .160 .330 .090 .090 .500 1,893.500 | 15.290 240.00 240.00 12.82 111. 11 45.45 88.24 72.29 71.43 240.00 240.00 24a 00 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Make linings................................................ Close (first)................................................... Stay................................................................ Cement...... ................................ . ................. Fold................................................................ Back............... —........................................... Line vamps................................................... Ink.................................................................. Insert lace or button stay.......................... Paste yokes................................................... Match............................................................ Stitch edges.................................................. Trim ............................................................. . Eyelet............................................................ Vamp............................................................. Seam toes.................................................... . Lace.............................................................. . Bar................................................................ . Sort and tie................................................. . Line tongues................................................. Stitch neverslips................... ..................... . Stitch tips..................................................... Inspect........................................................ Cobble.......................................................... Odd shoe work.......................................... . Sweep...... ..................................................... Operate elevators........................................ Organization............................................... Total....... ............. ..................... _ .423 .377 .417 .333 .500 .300 .273 .343 .388 .343 .343 .556 .344 .545 .730 .417 .384 .394 .343 .343 .381 .560 .357 .384 .792 .432 .216 1.200 38.46 171.43 166.67 ■333.33 26.32 75.00 136.36 171.43 176.47 285.71 285.71 37.04 62.50 136.36 20.00 83.33 240.00 187.50 285.71 85.71 44.78 80.00 142.86 240.00 240.00 480.00 240.00 240.00 .484 |..................... 69 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 16. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued. Women’s McKay, whole quarter, lace oxford, five eyelets, glazed kid, broad, vamp, plain toe, tan forepart, black shank, leather sole, 8/8 heel—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 1 6 .— Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Ontsnles, leather l _. r Insoles, leather1___________________________________ Counters, leather 1_________________________________ Top pieces, leather l___ B oy toes, leather C . ...... Heels, leather 8/8 l .. T . _ .... _ 84. Ill 110.404 158.915 55.330 113.788 423.179 $0,892 1.069 1.314 .587 1.033 3.253 $0,637 .581 .496 .636 .545 .461 Stock fitting: Round outsoles........................................................... Round insoles............................................................. Tack heel pieces (insole)............................................ Case outsoles.............................................................. Case insoles................................................................. Trim seats................................................................... Channel...................................................................... Split....... .................................................................... Bevel............ ............................................................. M old........................................................................... Turn up...................................................................... Cement........................................................................ Fill.............................................................................. Lay welt...................................................................... Fair stitch.................................................................. Assemble........................ ........................................... Crown......................................................................... Stamp......................................................................... Cut off......................................................................... Extend soles............................................................... Sweep........ ................................................................. Operate elevators....................................................... Organization.............................................................. 16.000 21.000 18.000 12.000 12.000 6.000 15.000 13.000 25.000 21.000 23.000 22.000 12.000 41.000 43.000 11.000 5.000 15.000 12.000 79.000 4.167 25.000 25.000 .200 .260 .100 .130 .130 .040 .210 .090 .300 .180 .160 .120 .075 .500 .600 .120 .055 .080 .100 .500 .030 .090 .500 .750 .743 .333 .650 .650 .400 .840 .415 .720 .514 .417 ,327 .375 .732 .837 .655 ,660 .320 .500 .380 .432 .216 1.200 T otal_______ ..... _____ _____ 476.167 4.570 .576 1,421.894 12.718 .537 Trim uppers...................................................................... Pull tacks.......................................................................... Shank.,.......... .................................................................. Tack toes........................................................................... Nail toes............................................................................ Charge work..................................................................... Open up shoes................................................................... Pull lasts............................................................................ Sort lasts............................................................................ Organization...................................................................... 20.000 20.000 178.000 118.000 131.000 256.000 19.000 30.000 20.000 21.000 36.000 66.000 28.000 19.000 18.000 21.000 18.000 12.500 .090 .090 1.900 1.850 2.050 4.000 .080 .090 .170 .160 .350 1.050 .450 .080 .080 .250 .120 .340 .270 .270 .640 .941 .939 .938 .253 .180 .510 .457 .583 .955 .964 .253 .267 .714 .400 1.632 Total________________________________________ 1,031.500 13.200 .768 Total, sole-leather department_________________ 1 375.00 285.71 333.33 500.00 500.00 1,000.00 400.00 461.54 240.00 285.71 260.87 272.73 500.00 146.34 139.53 545.45 1,200.00 400.00 500.00 75.95 1,439.88 240.00 240.00 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Put away and get out stock............................................. Put away and get out uppers........................................... Assemble for pull-over machine...................................... Pull over, machine......... .................................................. Side last, machine............................................................. Operate bed machine........................................................ Pickup work.................................................................... 300.00 300.00 33.71 50.85 45.80 23.44 315.79 200.00 300.00 285.71 166.67 90.91 214.29 315.79 333.33 285.71 333.33 240.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. .270 .623 Nail seats........................................................................... 26.000 1.500 .947 95.000 M cKay sew....................................................................... .300 .514 35.000 Cement.............................................................................. .300 .462 39.000 Wet soles............................................................. ............ .950 .731 78.000 Level.................................................................................. 1.940 .954 122.000 Heel................................................................................. . .090 .318 17.000 Piece heels......................................................................... * These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 230. 77 63 16 171.43 153.85 76.92 49.18 352.94 repre 70 TIME AND LABOR COSTS^-HCENTRAJL ATLANTIC DISTRICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS I N T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF TOO PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION-rContinued. . 1C E N T H A D A T L A N T I C D I B T M C T — Continued. • E s ta b U s h m m t M . M —Women-s McKay, whole quarter, lace oxford, five eyelets, glazed kid, broad vamp, plain toe, tan forepart, black shank, leather sole, 8/8 heel—Concluded. Department and operation. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Slug..................... ............................................................. Sock linings.............................. ................... - ................... Lace............................................................ ...................... Second last and get out lasts.............. ............................ Trim heels....... ................................................................. Breast heels............................................. ......................... Trim edges______ — —.............. ............................... Cobble............................................................................... Odd shoe work.................................................................. Sweep........ - .....................- ............................................... Operate elevators......... ................................................... Organization..................................................................... Total____ FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts......................................................... ........... First wheel........................................................................ Dope heels—...................................................................... L X V scour......................................................................... T op heel scallop-.............................................................. Set edges............................................................................ Second wheel...... .............- ............................................... Ink heels___ j_................................................................... Sand bottoms.................................................................... Buff................................................................................... Scour breasts L X V ................................................................. Brush bottoms................................................................... Ink -heels-------- ---------- -------------------------------------------Burnish heels......................................................... ........... Finish bottoms..................... ............. ................. ........... Wax bottoms........................_•.......................................... Clean stitches.................................................................... Rub edges.......................................................................... Refinish heels.................................................................... Wheel seats....................................................................... Pull lasts............................................................................ Sort out lasts..................................................................... Stamp bottoms j *......... ................................................... Sweep............................................................................... Operate elevators......... —....................................... ......... Organization................. ................................................... Total _ _ .. __ _ TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Emboss.............................................................................. Lace........................................................................ ......... Iron and tree, band.......................................................... Dress sh o e s................................................ .......... ......... Inspect............................... ................... ........................... Brush bottoms.................................................................. Mark cartons— .................. ................. ........... ................... Pack................................................................................... Odd shoe work..................................... ........................... Sweep. . . ___ __ _____________________ _________ Operate elevators___ _______________ __________ ____ Organization____________ ________________________ T ota l G ra n d total r Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). .Hourly wages. 29.000 87.000 44.000 *92.000 89.000 142.000 173.000 25.000 25.000 25.000 *25.000 12.500 $0,200 .550 .250 .900 1.400 .900 2.400 .260 .140 .170 .090 .340 $0,414 .379 .341 .587 .944 .380 .832 .624 .336 .408 .216 1.632 1,180. *50 12.950 .658 .270 .220 .100 1.600 .140 2.550 .190 .180 .580 .430 .300 .370 .180 .370 .630 .380 .200 .170 .250 .280 .200 .150 .120 .090 .090 1.020 .386 .293 .375 .733 .420 .945 .422 .348 .633 .629 .529 .529 .432 .529 .630 .465 .387 .425 .429 .525 .429 .346 .379 .216 .216 2.448 1,092.000 11.060 .606 19.000 44.000 143.000 126.000 45.000 29.000 20.000 35.000 25.000 25.000 25.000 25.000 .130 .250 1.000 .800 .460 .220 .150 .260 .150 .180 .090 .430 .411 .341 .420 .381 .613 .455 .450 .446 .360 .432 .216 1.032 42.000 45.000. 16.000 131.000 000 162.00027.000 31.000 55.000 41.000 34.000 42.000 25.000 42.000 60. COO 49.000 31.000 24.000 35.000 32.000 28.000 26.000 19.000 25.000 25.000 25.000 561.000 4.120 .441 8,194.394 82.368 .603 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 206.90 68.97 136.36 65.22 67.42 42.25 34.68 240.60 m m m m oo oo oo oo 142.86 133.33 375.00 45.80 300.00 37.04 222.22 193. 55 109.09 146.34 176.47 142.86 m oo 142.86 100.00 122.45 193. 55 250.00 171.43 187.50'. 214.29 230.77 315.79 210.00 m oo m oo 315.79 136.36 41.96 47.62 133.33 206.90 300.00 171.43 m oo 240.00 240.00 m oo JBBXABJUESSXSiNT TO. 23. n TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 110 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, E Y DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t M b . fS.—Men’s Goodyear welit, russia side, felucher, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number pairs of worked on per hour? CUTTING DEPARTMENT. uppers, machine----------------------------- -------- - .......... Puneh tips...... , ............. — ................... .......... ..................... Skive vamps.......................... ......................... ........... ............. Skive tips........ ..................... ........................ .......................... Crimp.......... .............................................................- ............ Mark....................................... ...................., ............................ Cut linings, machine.............................................................. Case tongues....................................................., ..................... Cut facings, hand................................................................... Case linings.................... ........................................................ Cut backers.................... ......................................................... Case backers................... ............................................. - .......... Case stays ................... ........................................................ Stitch tongues,........................................ - ............................ Skive outside stays................................................................. Stamp linings,,....................................................................... Case tongues.......................................................................... . Split facipgs.................... ............................................J.......... Split tongues.......................................................................... Split outside stays......................................... ........................ Organization and general work............................... ........... 300.000 7.767 20.800 6.933 16.667 16.667 10.417 5.550 75.000 11.100 4.800 4.167 4.167 25.000 2.767 10.417 5.550 4.867 3.467 3.467 436.164 $3,367 .083 .200 .075 ; 141 .175 .125 .050 .808 .075 .641 .033 .025 .333 .033 .063 .041 .053 .038 .038 3.333 $0,673 .641 .577 .649 .508 .630 .720 .541 .646 .405 .513 .475 .360 .799 .716 .363 .443 .653 .658 .658 .459 Total............................................................................... 975.734 9.130 .561 Make linings.................. ....... ................................................ Stitch top facings.................................................................... Trim top facings.................................................................... Stitch tips, .............................................................................. Stitch box toes............................................................ ........... Make vamps {attach vamp linings and tongues to vam ps)--.............................................................................. Stitch eyelet rows................................................................... Close tops................................................................................ Rub tops......................... - ....................................................... Stitch backstays........... ....................................................... Cement fronts.......................................................................... Fold...............................................................................- .......... Hook__..................................................................................... Match lin in g s— .......................................................... , .......... Stitch tops................................................................................ Eyelet....................................................................................... Vamp......................................................................................... Lace......................................................................................... Trim.......................................................................................... Crown....................................................................................... Organization and general work................. ........................... 116.667 16.667 8.333 66.400 86.200 1.166 .158 .116 . 350 .266 .600 .569 .835 .316 .185 51.43 359.99 720.03 90.36 69.61 65.267 66.480 28.800 8.570 150.000 20.833 83.000 28.800 4.900 187. 500 23.000 125.000 41. 667 29.167 16.667 187.056 .566 .337 .200 .083 .866 .133 .667 .200 .050 1.667 .200 1. 585 .167 .200 .116 1. 667 .520 .304 .417 .581 .346 .383 .482 .417 .612 .533 .522 .761 .240 .411 .418 .535 91.93 90.25 208.33 700.12 40.00 288.00 72.29 208.33 1,224.49 32.00 260.87 48.00 144.00 205. 71 359.99 82.08 Total............................................................................... 1,360.974 10. 760 .474 Outsoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade................................................................................. Sort........................... ........................................................ Pack................................................................................... Case................................................................................... Organization and general work..................................... 32.000 10.417 10.000 6.000 6.000 31. 662 .409 .075 .683 .640 .045 .300 .750 .432 .498 .400 .450 .569 Total............................................................................... 96.079 .943 .589 Insoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade................................................................................ Sort......... .......................................................................... Pack.................................................................................. Case.................................................................................... Organization and general work...... ............................. 30.660 10.667 10.000 6.000 11.333 15.831 .400 .080 .075 .045 .116 .150 .800 .450 .450 .450 .582 .569 83.831 .860 .616 Cut 20.60 772.50 288.46 865.43 359.99 359.99 575.98 1,081.08 80.00 540.54 1,250.00 1,439.£8 1,439.88 240.00 2,168.41 575.98 1,081.08 1,232.79 1,730.60 1,730.60 137.56 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. BOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total________________________________ 187.50 575.98 600.00 1,600.00 1,000.60 189.50 200.00 562.48 600.60 1,000.00 529.43 379.00 72 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR IC T, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2$.—Men’s Goodyear welt, russia side, blucher, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. % Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Counters: Cut __________ Mnld _____ Crown_____________ _____ _____ __________ Dip ___ ___ ___ Sort .............. „„ ........... ... .. . . ,, _ ___ Casa , ....................... ................. _ __ Wax______ ______ ______________________________ Organization and general work _ _r „ 45.800 30.000 2.500 7.000 8.000 3.000 7.000 42.970 $0,400 .245 .035 .050 .055 .020 .050 .300 $0,524 .490 .840 .429 .413 .400 .429 .419 Total-...................................................................... Rox tops, leather l _ _ _, „. _ _ 146.270 113.788 1.155 1.033 .474 .545 30.000 5.000 244.500 10.000 12.000 6.000 1.500 83.679 392.679 .400 .050 2.000 .060 .100 .058 .010 .587 3.265 .800 .600 .491 .360 .500 .580 .400 .421 .499 200.00 1,200.00 24.54 600.00 500.00 1,000.00 4,000.00 71.70 10.000 24.000 12.500 147.003 193.503 1,026.150 .082 .283 .120 1.327 1.813 9.069 .498 .708 .576 .542 .562 .530 600.00 250.00 480.00 40.82 10.550 16.767 6.667 6.667 7.083 63.000 83.000 83.000 200.000 116.934 593.668 .100 . 116 .083 .063 .083 .625 1.058 .958 2.583 1.083 6.752 .569 .415 .747 .567 .703 .595 .765 .693 .775 .556 .682 568.72 357.85 899.96 899.96 847.10 95.24 72.29 72.29 30.00 51.31 11.117 35.700 83.000 71.383 20.000 20.833 25.000 23.783 23.783 16.767 20,000 10.000 25,000 16.767 50.000 83.000 35.700 41.667 13.883 27.783 .133 .250 .616 1.100 .167 .283 .167 .175 .167 .116 .158 .116 .275 .233 .692 1.567 .308 .500 .125 .300 .067 2.017 2.000 11.532 .718 .420 .445 .925 .501 .815 .401 .441 .421 .415 .474 .696 .660 .834 .830 1.133 .518 .720 .540 .648 .482 .848 .541 .673 539.71 168.07 72.29 84.05 300.00 288.00 240.00 252.28 252.28 357.85 300.00 600.00 240.00 357.85 120.00 72.29 168.07 144. Q0 432.18 215.96 720.03 42.03 27.07 Heels: Cut. lifts Sort lifts Build fikive _____ , Dress ____ . _____ __ ... __ __ __________ _ ___ ___ , . __. _ _ ____ . _ _ _ Compress Pack*____ ■_____________________________________ Organization and general work __ Total ... ...... Stock fitting: Mold _____________________________________ Channel _ _ __ _ _ _ __ Turn lips. ...................... •_______ ________________ Organization and general work T otal.— ; ............................................................... Total, sole-leather department.............. ............... LASTING DEPARTMENT. Case lasts _. ....... . __ Tank insoles__ Case counters ...... Crease lasts _ Trim insoles___ Assemble for pull-over machine Pull over, machine ___ Ride last, machine . _ _ __ Operate bed machine __ _ _ Organization and general work _ ......... ... _ __ Total........................................................................ FOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes Rtanle___ PnlTlast tacks. Goodyear welt ... __ _ ._ __ ..... _ Butt welts________________________________________ Trim inseams _ Pnll bottom tacks Beat welts Tack joints. __ Rtick shanks __ _ ___ _ .... __ __ __ .... ...... ____ __ Fill bottoms______________ ________________ _____ Cement welts ..... . ...... .. _ ... Lay soles. _ T_ Nail heel seats n _ . Rongh round. . . Goodyear stitch. . _ __ . _. _ _. ... Level ...... . _ . Heel __ Trim heel seats Trim heels _ _. _ _ r „ ___ _ _ Cut strings__ _ . _ .. Trim edges Organization and general work Total..................1.................................................... a 333 142.767 221.688 1,027.954 131.00 200.00 2,400.00 857.14 750.00 2,000.00 857.14 139.63 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. ESTABLISHMENT NO. 36. 73 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. 1923, C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 2 8 .— Men’s Goodyear welt, russia side, blucher, single sole, leather heel with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels, first time............................................................ Scour heel breasts.................................................................... Paste heels............................................................................... Scour heels, second time....................................................... Set edges................................................................................... Ink heels................................................................................... Burnish heels........................................................................... Bleach....................................................................................... Clean bottoms........................................................................ Polish foreparts....................................................................... Wheel breasts.......................................................................... Pull l$sts................................................................................... Organization and general work............................................ Tntal .583 $0,672 .501 .720 .527 .624 .450 .540 .383 .300 .527 .529 .576 .471 441.517 3.908 .531 20.833 20.833 20.833 20.833 142. 700 71.383 71.383 25.000 80.000 16.667 6.950 25.000 116.310 . 208 .175 .146 .167 1.733 .533 .583 .250 .750 .116 .063 .233 1.000 .599 .504 .420 .481 .729 .448 .490 .600 .563.418 .544 .559 .516 638. 725 5.957 .560 6,064.722 57.108 .565 41.667 2 0 .0 0 0 8.333 38.333 74.000 16.667 41.067 20.833 25.000 49.300 10.550 20.833 74.334 $0,467 .167 .100 .337 .770 .125 .375 .133 .125 .433 .093 .200 144.00 300.00 720.03 156.52 81.08 359.99 144.00 288.00 240.00 121.70 568.72 288.00 80.72 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Cut tacks.................................................................................. Line heels................................................................................. Stamp....................................................................................... Stripe........................................................................................ Tree, machine..,1............................................................ Dress......................................................................................... Repair....................................................................................... Polish........................................................................................ Brush........................................................................................ Lace........................................................................................... Stamp cartons......................................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Organization and general work...................j ....................... Total _ ___ _ Grand total E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 6 .— _ 288.00 288.00 288.00 288.00 42.05 84.05 84.05 240.00 75.00 359.99 863.31 240.00 51.59 Misses’ tan calf, 3/4 fox, pony cut, lace tip, tan calf upper, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Cut uppers, machine.................................. Cut top facings, machine........................... Cut lace facings, machine.......................... Cut linings, machine.................................. Cut vamp linings, machine...................... Stamp linings............................................... Mark quarters............................................. Skive toes...................................................... Skive vamps................................................. Skive tips...................................................... Skive tops..................................................... Perforate and stitch quarters.................... Perforate foxings.......................................... Perforate vamps.......................................... Perforate tips and medallions.................. Organization................................................. 222.220 68.580 171.420 88.000 40.000 22.220 22.220 16.670 41.670 16.670 27.780 55.560 62.500 62.500 13.890 115.200 $4.583 .500 1.250 .917 .167 .125 .333 .139 .361 .139 .250 .722 .861 .667 .139 1.900 $1,240 .437 .438 .625 .251 .338 .899 .500 .520 .500 .540 .780 .827 .640 .600 .990 Total................................................... ,047.100 13.053 .748 27.780 83.330 55.560 22.220 166.670 83.330 260.000 13.890 13.890 .417 1.139 .555 .222 .889 .500 1.083 .097 .125 .901 .820 .599 .599 .320 .360 .250 .419 .540 27.00 87.49 35.00 68.18 150.00 270.03 270.03 359.93 143.99 359.93 215.98 107.99 96.00 96.00 431.97 52.08 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Close linings................................................. Make linings................................................. Fold quarters................. ............................. Fold tips........................................................ Close uppers................................................. Stay uppers................................................. Trim for top closing.................................... Ink tips......................................................... Ink edges, foxings................................... . 215.98 72.00 107.Q9 270.03 36.00 72.00 23.08 431.97 431.97 74 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N T R A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR ICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E O F 160 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Continued. ' J S sta M ish m en t N o. 30—Misses' tan calf, 3/4 fox, pony cut. lace tip, tan calf upper, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel with nibber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Ink .edges, vamps ........ r r TnJrtftdges, qiffliters ..................... Line vamps. Crease tips, _.............._ _ _ _ _ _ Btitnh tips _ _ Bi ee out Vamps ........ fttitrih haekstraps _ . __ _ _ _ Stitoh tops * ,rn . _ _ __ Eyelet ‘ ______ Vam p_______ ___________„_________________________ Trim* for packing Lipft tongiifts . Close toes ...... ____ Bar______________ __________________________ ______ Assemble and pef*.k. ................ ._ __ .. _ Organization * _ Total _ , 27.780 23.140 27.780 33.330 69.440 13.890 111. 110 166.670 41.670 208.330 222.840 125.000 83.330 27.780 41.670 57.590 $0,250 .208 .306 .111 .528 .111 .917 1.528 .917 2.750 1.083 .833 .694 .278 1.000 .800 $0,540 .539 .661 .260 .456 .479 .495 .550 1.320 .792 .292 ,400 .500 .600 1.440 .833 2,008.020 17.341 .518 41.670 8.330 33.330 .420 .093 .1-51 .605 .670 .272 215.98 259.29 215.98 180.02 86.41 431.97 54.00 36.00 143.99 28.80 26.93 • 48.00 72.00 215.98 143.99 104.18 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Cpt ...... Sort Mark sires Total _ ^ - -r . ._ . ... _ __ 83.330 .664 .478 Tuner snips, leather 1 _ _ _ __ -Counters, leather 1___________ __ __________________ Box toes, leather 1 Reels, leather R/Rl _ . . . ... 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 1.069 1.814 1.033 3.253 .581 .496 .545 .461 Stock fitting: Buff scratches _ _ _ _ Temper________________________________________ ■Round . . . . . _ _ Channel . ___ _ _ __ _ Place tops______________, _______ _______________ Trim tops. _ _ „. Mold soles ___ _ __ Open channels___________________________ ______ Fair stitch _ _______ _ _ Round insoles -.Organization __ __ __ __ 33.330 13.890 • 33.330 41.670 33.330 27.780 27.780 27.780 50.000 19. 440 57.600 .370 .154 .336 .362 .243 .203 .203 .212 .521 .196 .900 .666 .665 . 605 .521 .437 .438 .438 .458 .625 .605 .<938 Total........................................................................ Total, sole-leather .department _r .. LASTING DEPARTMENT. -<5et out lasts ___ __________ ___ _ Assemble for pull-over machine _ _ Pull-over, machine ____. ... _ _ Last, C. "FT. M . machine „ r_ri. __ , „ Pound___________ ____ ____________________________ Pull tacks and strings _.. _ _ __ ___ Put in shanks. ___ ______ _ Lay soles _ _ ‘P ulllasts___ _ _ _ __ __. _ _______ _ Wet bottoms. . _ __ _ Organization. r _ _ Total________________________________________ 365.930 3.700 .607 1,255.546 11.033 .527 24.900 83.330 69.440 125.000 47.220 64.000 35.560 69.450 -64 000 ll! 110 57.590 .250 1.139 1.333 2.000 .555 .667 .111 .833 .667 .111 .800 .625 .820 1.152 .960 .705 .625 .187 .720 .625 .599 .833 650.700 8.466 .781 143.99 720.29 180.02 180.02 431.97\ 180.-02 143.99 180.02 215.98 215.98 215.98 120.00 308.64 104.1,7 250.00 72.00 86.41 48.00 127.06 93.75 lea 73 86.39 93.75 540.00 104.18 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-HO. ESTABLISHMENT NO. 40. 75 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o 8 6 .— Misses’ tan calf, 3/4 fox, pony cut, lace tip, tan calf upper, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift—-Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. B O T T O M IN G D E P A R T M E N T . McKay sew.............................................................................. Cement channels..................................................................... Lay channels............................................................................ Nail heel seats.......................................................................... Level................... ..................................................................... Wheel....................- ................................................................ Nail leather heel bases........................................................... Nail rubber top pieces...............: ........................................... Put in lasts............................................................................... Shave heels............................................................................... Breast heels...................................... ...................................... Trim edges......... ..................................................................... General "work....... .................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total.................................. ............................................ 55.560 27.780 13.890 19.440 55.560 27.780 41.670 41.670 126.780 4L670 27.780 111. 110 11.110 2& 800 630.600 $0,917 .194 .139 .194 .222 .222 .583 .583 1.167 .583 .389 1.389 .167 .500 7.249 $0,990 .419 .600 .599 .240 .479 .839 .839 . 552 .839 .840 .750 .902 1.042 47.200 69.150 13.890 68.560 19.440 55.560 33.330 41.670 101.810 80.000 112.940 87.280 32.720 28.800 792.670 .667 1.306 .139 .333 .194 .472 .306 .583 1.167 .917 .667 .667 .250 .500 127.06 86.39 431.97 87.51 308.65 107.99 180.02 143.99 5a 93 75.00 53.13 68.74 183.38 208.33 8.168 .847 1.128 .600 .291 .599 .510 .551 .839 .688 .688 .354 .458 .458 1.042 .618 .583 .917 .500 1.750 .833 .250 1.167 .500 .583 .500 .500 .520 .840 9.443 .375 .333 .625 .625 .312 .313 .313 .416 .313 .354 .542 .875 .421 64.29 36.33 66.61 35.71 75.00 124.99 26.79 62.50 71.43 62.50 70.85 104.17 104.17 Total............................................................................... a3.330 165.140 90.080 168.000 80.000 48.000 224.000 96.000 84.000 96.000 84.690 57.600 57.600 1.344.440 Grand total .................................................................. 7,729.076 74.753 .580 107.99 215.98 431.97 306.64 107.99 215.98 143.99 143.99 47.33 143.99 215.98 54.00 §40.00 208.33 .690 F IN IS H IN G D E P A R T M E N T . Scour, first time........................................ ..... ........................ Set edges...................................................... .......... ................. Ink heel seats..................................................... ..................... Brush edges.—......................................................................... Ink heels.............................. ................................................... Burnish heels........................................................................... Shank out................................................................................. Buff bottoms........................................................................... Stain bottoms................................................ ......................... Wax bottoms........................................................................... Stripe bottoms......................................................................... Brush uppers..................................................... .................... Pull lasts................................................................................... Organization.......................... ................................................. Total............................................................................... T R E E IN G A N D P A C K IN G D E P A R T M E N T . Stamp bottoms........................................................................ Sock linings.............................................................................. Pad heels___________________ ______ __________________ Iron............................................................................................ Clean......................................................................................... Size out..................................................................................... Dress......................................................................................... Lace........ ................................................................................. Crown........ .......... .................................................................. . Stamp cartons......................................................................... Pack............... ........................................................................... Ship........................................................................................... Organization............... ............................................................. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 0 .— .333 Women's Goodyear welt, patent leather oxford, leather heel. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Give out jobs........................................................................... Stock man................................................................... ............ Cut outsides, hand................................................................ Cut tongues.............................................................................. Cut back straps....................................................................... Cut linings, canvas................................................................ Cut linings, leather................................................................. Cut drill toe linings................................................................ Cut sock linings...................................................................... Skive.............................................................. .......................... Mark uppers............................................................................ Stamp linings.......................... ................................................ Stamp name, sock lining....................................................... Sock lining (gold stamper).................................................... Cripple work........................................................................... Organization_________ _ __ . __ __ _ Total_________________________________ 8 7 .2 7 3 6 2 .5 0 0 5 3 1 .2 5 0 3 3 .3 3 3 3 3 .3 3 3 55. 556 1 6 6 .6 6 7 8 3 .3 3 3 5 0 .0 0 0 1 8 7 .5 0 0 8 3 .3 3 3 5 2 .0 8 3 5 0 .0 0 0 5 8 .3 3 3 2 1 .8 1 8 6 5 .4 5 5 $ 1 .1 7 4 .5 4 3 8 .5 0 0 .1 5 0 .1 5 0 .3 4 7 1 .6 6 7 .3 9 6 .5 9 4 1 .5 8 3 .3 3 3 .4 5 8 .3 7 5 .4 6 6 . 265 1 .0 2 3 $ 0 ,8 0 7 .5 2 1 .9 6 0 .2 7 0 .2 7 0 .3 7 5 .6 0 0 .2 8 5 .7 1 3 .5 0 6 .2 4 0 .5 2 8 .4 5 0 .4 7 9 .7 2 9 .9 3 8 1,621.767 18.024 .667 6 8 .7 5 9 6 .0 0 1 3 .2 9 1 8 0 .0 0 1 8 0 .0 0 1 0 8 .0 0 3 6 .0 0 7 2 .0 0 1 2 0 .0 0 3 1 .9 7 7 2 .0 0 115. 20 1 2 0 .0 0 1 0 2 .8 5 2 7 5 .0 0 9 1 .6 7 76 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— C E N TR A L A T L A N T IC D ISTR ICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923* B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 40—Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather oxford, leather heel—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Close................ ........................................................................ ___ ________ .... __ Close linings______ . ____ _ Rub d o w n ____ Mark quarters _ . ,„ Rnh seams ._ _ _ ... ___ Wink vamps. . ____ Cement vamps _ _ ___ ______ Bead vamps....................................................... ..................... Perforate tips _ _____ Paste tips __________ _ _ _____ . ___ Stitch tips............................................................................. . Cement.......... ......................................................................... Bead _ _ _ __ _____________ _ Paste stays....... ............................ ................... ...................... Trim stays________ _ _ __ . . . _________ ____ Paste ends __ _ Make linings............................................................................ Lay on linings......................................................................... Fancy stitch and backstrap __________ Stitch tops.____ _________ ___________________________ Eyelet____ ______________________ _____ ______________ Prepare for vamps________________ ____________ _____ Half lining- _ ______ Stitch vamp linings Tack ___ _ _______ Line inner toes _______ _ ___ Crease center and welts _ __ Size out _ _____ _ Vamp........................................................................................ Line tongues _ . .... ........... Stitch tongues............................................... .......................... Trim____________________ ____ __________ ____ ____ Lace____________________________________________ . . Crown............................................................................ ....... Cripple work __ __ . ___________ Organization _ ___ . 52.083 45.833 18.750 41.667 25.000 52.083 104.167 141.667 47.917 52.083 87.500 85.417 191.667 83.333 43.750 29.167 218.750 52.083 416.667 343.750 62.500 104.167 93.750 100.000 135.417 83.333 68.750 72.917 395.833 83.333 145.833 395.833 31.250 62.500 21.818 65.455 $0,333 .333 .051 .271 .167 .271 .271 1.375 .417 .464 .792 .500 1.375 .354 .146 .188 2.208 .604 3.271 2.229 .521 .646 .625 .558 .479 .396 .323 .313. 3.750 .583 .958 1.946 .130 .434 .167 .663 $0,384 .436 .162 .390 .401 .312 .156 .582 .522 .535 .543 .351 .430 .255 .200 .387 .606 .696 .471 .389 .500 .372 .400 .335 .212* .285 .282 .258 .569 .420 .394 .295 .250 .417 .459 .608 Total.............................. ............................................... 4,056.023 28.112 .416 Outsoles, leather1................................................................... Insoles, leather1...................................................................... Counters, le a t h e r ....................... ..................................... Top pieces, leather1...................... 71.................................. Box toes, leather1................................................................... 84.111 110.404 158.915 55.330 113.788 .892 1.069 1.314 .587 1.033 .637 .581 •496 •636 .545 Heels: Cut lifts............................................................................. Paste................................................................................. Nail________________ Stock....................................................... ......................... Gouge wedge press.......................................................... 100.000 88.889 88.889 88.889 142.592 .868 .401 .710 .586 1.436 .521 .271 .479 .396 .604 Total............................................................................... 509.259 4.001 .471 Stock fitting: Select soles............................................................. ....... Welt and roll.................................................................. Round insoles................................................................. Welt split heel roll______ Bevel and nick......... ................................................... Round shave.................................................................... Split feather edge......................................................... Channel........................................................................... Fit insoles and assemhle_______ Organization........ ........................................................ 38.887 44.444 33.333 166.667 27.778 83.333 44.444 55.556 55.556 21.818 .378 .401 .313 1.505 .164 .723 .463 .579 .521 .322 .583 .542 .563 .542 .354 .521 .625 .625 .563 .886 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 115.20 130.91 320.00 144.00 240.00 115.20 57.60 42.35 125.22 115.20 68.57 71 24 3 30 7 .00 13 f. 14 2C5.71 27.43 115.20 14.40 17.45 96.00 57.60 64*. 00 60.00 44.31 72.00 87.27 82.28 15 16 72.00 41.14 - 15.16 191.87 96.00 275.00 91.67 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total............................................................................... 571.816 5.369 .563 Total, sole-leather department.................................. 1,603.623 14.265 .534 60.00 67.50 67.50 67.50 42.08 154.29 135.00 180.00 36.00 216.00 72.00 135.00 108. CO 108.00 275.00 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. (See pp. 132-140.) 77 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 40. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023; B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T -C o n tin u e d . 40.—Women’s Goodyear welt, patent leather oxford, leather heel—Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Pick lasts_______ ____ __________________ _____________ Last, hand___ _____ __________________________________ Operate bed machine_________________________________ General work_________________________________________ Organization__________________________________________ 52.083 1,354.167 375.000 109.091 21.818 $0,244 15.000 4.000 .970 .303 $0,281 .665 .640 .534 .833 Total..................................................... ........................ 1,912.159 20.517 .644 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes____________________________________________ Pull tacks__________________________ _________________ Goodyear welt________________________________________ Trim 'inseams Beat welts ___________________________________________ Fill bottoms___________ ______ __ _______ _______ ____ Fill toes___________________________ ____ ________ ____ Lay soles_____________________________________________ Press welts Rough round_________________________________________ Nailseats_______ __________________________ ____ _____ Wet and beat seats......... .......__........................ ................... W et and heat shanks Tack joints______________________ ____________________ Open channels _ _ _ _ . _ _ W et up ___ _ _ _ _ Goedyear stitch .. ... . _ . . Level______________________________________ ______ ___ Heel, leather__________________________________________ Trim heels Breast heels _ . _ _ Trim edges_________________________ ____________ ____ Trim welts___________________ ________ _______________ Joint . _ . _ .. . _ _ General work___ _____________________________________ Organization _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 31.250 83.333 160.417 197.917 45.833 166.667 23.333 162.858 25.000 145.833 83.333 100.000 100.000 20.000 54.167 27.083 281.250 204.167 133.333 96.667 200.000 200.000 31.250 150.000 43.636 65.455 .375 .708 3.750 1.500 .375 1.500 .250 .950 .104 1.594 .792 .750 .917 .250 .350 .113 3.125 3.208 2.000 1.625 2.000 2.500 .417 .917 .167 .947 .720 .510 1.403 .455 .491 .540 .643 .350 .250 .656 .570 .450 .550 .750 .388 .250 .667 .943 .900 .864 .600 .750 .801 .367 .230 .868 Total_____________________ „____________________ 2,832.782 31.184 .660 333.333 200.000 114.583 125.000 157.292 95.000 489.583 116.667 43.333 21.818 32.727 3.750 2.000 1.125 1.250 1.750 .917 4.781 1.250 .500 .182 .398 .675 .600 .589 .600 .668 .579 .586 .643 .692 .501 .730 1,729.336 17.903 .621 93.750 360.000 183.333 41.667 62.500 25.000 41.667 333.333 58.333 83.333 27.083 31.250 87.273 54.545 .423 3.000 1.591 . 145 .217 .122 .260 2.292 .223 .694 .160 .184 .723 .568 .271 .500 .521 .208 .208 .292 .375 .413 .229 .500 .354 .354 .497 .625 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 115.2i 4.43 16.09 55.09 275.09 192.09 72.00 37.49 30.31 130.91 36.09 257.15 36.84 240.09 41.14 72.00 60.00 60.09 300.09 110.77 221.54 21.33 29.39 45.09 62.07 30.09 30.00 191.87 40.09 137.59 91.66 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Set edges Scour breasts and heels. ._ _ Burnish heels_______ _________________________________ Wheel edges, first time _ . _ B uff b ottom s....... _ .... . . . Wheel seats ........ Finish shoes _ _ __ ..^ ____ Wheel edges, second time ........ _ . _ Pull lasts . . . . . . . ... ..... General work _ _ ........ _ _ _. Organization _ .._... Total _ _ ____ _ TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT, flock linings. . . . . Tree, hand . _ _ r _ _ T,. _ ___ Repair patent leather . . ___ Pair up shoes __ . . . . ___ ___ Cut. ends_____ . . . _. _ ..... .......... . . ... . _____ Stamp soles . . . . . . . . . . . r *. Stamp sock linings____________________________________ Clean (whole shoe) . . . . ____ _ Lace__________________________________________________ Examine Stamp boxes _ . Pack.......................................................................................... Ship........................................................................................... Organization __ . .. .. ___ . Total _ _ ___ _ Grand total 847t)l°— 241------ 6 _ . _ . _ _ _ 1,483.067 10.602 .429 15,238.757 140.607 .554 18.09 30.00 52.39 48.09 38.15 63.16 12.26 51.43 138.46 275.00 %183.33 64.09 16.67 32.73 144.00 96.00 240.00 144.09 18.09 102.86 72.00 221.54 191.87 68.75 110.09 7§ TIME AND LABOR COSTS-— CENT&AL ATLANTIC DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1823, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T * A N D OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continuad. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 4 1 .—Women’s Goodyear we£t, black kid oxford, one strap, two buttons, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Pick out leather, outsides __ ____ . . . - ___ __ __ _ Make test, cards-'and count leather___ ____ _ Traiwlat.p. leather _ Pick out leather trimmings _ ___ Cut outsides, hand ~ _ ____ . . . . . . Cat linings, hand Cut reenfor'cings, hand _ _ _ .. Out trimmings..'_ _ . __ _ Cut heel anchors, die machine. . . . . . . . . __ . . Cut. reenforcing, die machine. 1 _ Out throat, pieces__ Inspect outsides. _ .. .. . Mark for imitation stitching _ . TMeepenirifra in strap____ Jl*___ ____ Sttarqp outsides. " Stamp reeri forcings Assemble . .. . ~ _ .. too linings. _ __ _ , „i Stamp quarter finings. ____________ ____ _ ______ Skive quarters____ 7,r_______________________________ Organization . .. . . . . . Total___ __________ ___________ _ STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Seam linings . n___...... . Vamp linings (sew toe lining)______________ Sew m heel anchor________ ...._______ ___ ___ _ _ ffeirm labels ___ __ _i _ „ ___ Hub seams . . . ___ , Paistfi vamp doublers. .... ..................... ...... .. Paste hntton reenforcings __ . . Paste throat pieces................................................... ............ Paste quarter doublers _ _ _ ... . _____ __ Trim- quarter doublers_______ ^ ____ ___ Trim vamp doublers. ___________ , n. r __ Assemble _ d o s e hack seams _ _ „ . ____ ■Ruh hack seAms _ .......... . ■Reenforce hack seams __ _ _ . , .......... , Fold overlaps___________________________________ _ Stit.cft imitation taxings _ . _ _____ ___ Stitch “ V ” stitch on vamps ____ _ Vamp _ _ .......... . „ „ Paste paper fbr bindings. . . , , , ____ , Stitch on bindings.......... ..................................... ............... Cement b in d in g s______ Fold bindings _____ _ _ ______ _ Size out__________________________ __________________ Pump stitch. _______ ________________ _____ _______ Make buttonholes _ ... Sew on buttons_____________________________________ Stitch openings................... ..... ................... ....................... Tack straps.._________________ ______ ____ __________ Case and t r i m ___ _ . . .. n Inspection.............................................. ...... ................... Organization and general work ___ ____ Total__________ ______ __ 10.000 8.000 13.000 20.000 495.000 30.000 32.000 362.000 40.000 44.000 24.000 74.000 190.000 56.000 2a 000 $ai26 .100 .164 .250 8.000 .550 .650 3.630 .300 .400 .154 .925 1.047 .550 $0,750 .750 .757 .750 .970 600.00 750.00 461.54 300.00 187.50 16.57 150.00 136.36 250.00 81.08 31.58 107.14 300 00 250.00 3,000.00 300.00 300.00 300.00 21.55 1.100 2a ooo 278.454 1.680 1.219 .601 .450 .545 .385 .750 .331 .589 .660 .450 .480 .390 .600 .600 .362 1,782.454 19.471 .655 80.000 106.000 300.000 70.000 50.000 34.000 50.000 26.000 60.000 42.000 30.000 4.000 38.000 .690 .950 1.850 .470 .300 .518 .538 .370 .403 .360 .353 .384 .554 .460 .420 .420 .375 .395 .450 .240 .349 .630 21000 2.000 2a ooa 20.000 .220 ,180 .016 .130 .200 .200 .200 .320 .240 .460 .294 .210 20.000 .025 .250 .150 86.000 281.906 90.000 120.822 80.000 560.000 180.000 488.000 41.820 440.000 60.000 40.000 100.000r 24.325 50.000 8.000 1 ,62a 492 .500 2.750 .850 1.470 .480 3.400 .950 3.450 .230 3.500 .400 .250 1.390 .150 .650 .062 -6.590 .567 .730 .360 .364 .317 .424 .330 .477 .400 .375 .834 .370 .780 .465 .243 5,211.365 33.681 .388 84.111 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .545 .461 50.000 .200 12.12 200.00 75.00 56.60 20.00 85.71 120.00 176.47 120.00 230.77 100.00 142.86 200.00 1500.00 157.89 30000 120.00 69.77 22.91 66.67 49.66 75.00 ia 71 33.33 12.30 143.47 13.64 100.00 150.00 60.00 246.66 120.00 75a 00 3.60 , , . ,r r ii - SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather1................................................................... Insoles, leather1......... ............ ................ ....................... Counters, leather1............................................. .............. Box toes, leather1............. .............. ............ .......... ............ Heels, leather, 8 /8 1............ ......... ......................................... 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. ESTABLISHMENT NO. £L 79 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m m t N o . 4 i . ~ Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, one strap, two buttons, leather sole, 8/8leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded. Stock fitting: Sort outsoles.................................................................... Round outsoles. ............................................................. Split outsoles.................................................................... Bevel foreparts........... ..................................................... Shank soles................. .................................................... Mold soles....................................................................... Stamp soles....................................................................... Round insoles........... . ..................................................... Channel insoles............................................................... Turn up channels............................................................ Cement .channels............................................................. Lay canvas...................................................................... Trim canvas..................................................................... Form toes.......................................................................... Shellac toes....................................................................... Put in rivets..................................................................... Tack heel pieces.............................................................. Stamp.............................. ................................................ Mark for heel pieces........................................................ Crown insoles................................................................... Get out counters and case........... - ................................ Get out heels and cut top lifts............. - ....................... Organization and general work.................................... Total __________ Total, sole-leather department................................. 8.000 24.000 20.000 16.000 24.000 20.000 10.000 40.000 40.000 30.000 20.000 26.000 30.000 18.000 20.000 24.000 14.000 12.000 14.000 30.000 14.000 18.000 86.300 $0,097 .340 .200 .149 .223 .186 .045 .425 .360 .204 .090 .172 .198 .167 .090 .230 .073 .054 .077 .288 .098 .261 .758 $0,728 .850 .600 .559 .558 .558 .270 .638 .540 .408 .270 .397 .396 .557 .270 .575 .313 .270 .330 .576 .420 .870 .527 658.300 4.785 .514 1,448.697 12.346 .511 2.000 6.000 18.000 3a 000 22.000 20.000 35.2-40 30.000 16.000 30.000 10.000 242.000 80.000 100.000 76.000 240.000 60.000 .013 .038 .140 .260 .120 .126 .370 .270 .200 .390 .380 .467 .520 .327 .378 .630 .540 .750 .828 .378 .297 1.373 1.098 1.445 .915 .620 .675 .392 750.00 250.00 300.00 375.00 25a 00 3oaoo 600.00 150.00 150.00 20a 00 300.00 230.77 200.00 333.33 300.00 250.00 428.57 500.00 428.57 200.00 428.57 333.33 *9.52 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Receive and check uppers................................................. . Handle soles. - ........................................................................ Cement soles........................................................................... Get out lasts............................................................................ Clean lasts____________________________________________ Wax toes......... ......................................................................... Tack insoles........................................................................... Trim insoles. .......................................................................... Pound leaf.............................................................................. Inspect .................................................................................... Assemble parts........................................................................ Assemble for pull-over machine............ ................... ......... Pull over, machine............ .................... .............................. Draft (inspect)........................................................................ Side last machine................................................................... Operate bed machine.......................................................... . Inspect.......... ........................................................ ................. Heat and shape toes............................................................... Organization and general work............................................ 358.170 .063 1.200 1.830 1.830 1.830 3.660 .620 .450 2.340 T o ta l................................. .......................................... 1,415.410 15, 774 .669 40.000 80.000 55.000 120.000 40.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 20.000 56.000 69.000 70.000 158.000 72.000 60.000 .300 .400 .300 2.230 .220 .550 .400 .600 .400 .400 .150 .500 1.230 .370 2.370 .750 .400 .450 .300 .327 1.115 .330 .550 .400 .600 .400 .400 .450 .537 1.070 .317 .900 .625 .400 4a 000 .414 3,000.00 1,000.00 333.33 200.00 272.73 300.00 170.26 200.00 375.00 200.00 600.00 24.79 75.00 60.00 78.95 25.00 100.00 150.00 16.75 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Staple uppers.......................................................................... Pull side tacks......................................................................... Trim uppers............................................................................ Goodyear welt......................................................................... Pull bottom tacks.................................................................. Trim inseams......................................................................... Butt and tack joints............................................................. Beat welts........................................................ ...................... Put in shanks.................... .................................................... Fill bottoms......................................................................... Cement bottoms..................................................................... Lay soles........................................................... ... ................... Rough round.............................................. ............................ Open channels and reduce shanks....................................... Goodyear stitch................................................................... Rand and break shanks___ _ , Cement channel and lay leaf _ 150.00 75.00 109.09 50.00 150.00 100.00 ioaoo 100.00 100.00 100.00 300.00 107.14 86.96 86.71 37.97 83.33 100.00 80 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— CENTRAL ATLANTIC DISTRICT, TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. C E N T R A L A T L A N T I C D I S T R I C T —Concluded. E s ta b lis h m en t N o , 41.—Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid oxford, one strap, two buttons, leather sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift— Concluded. Department and operation. b o t t o m in g departm ent— Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. c o n c lu d e d . Nail and trim seats.................................................. Level........................................................................... Inspect........................................................................ Sifce out for heeling................................................... Heel,............................................................................ Load heeler............................................................. 60.000 160.000 18.000 14.000 80.000 80.000 24.000 60.000 49.320 170.000 38.000 414.890 $0,420 1.850 .117 .150 1.240 .306 .250 .990 .600 2.720 .500 2.600 $0,420 .694 .390 .643 .930 .230 .625 .990 .730 .960 .789 .376 2,308.210 23.313 .606 Scour heels, first time................................ Scour breasts................................................ Glue heels...................................................... Pound heel seats .......................................... Scour heels, second time............................ Brush off dust.............................................. Set and wheel edges..................................... Ink heels, first time........ ........................ Clean stitches................................................ Roll heels................................ .................... Sand bottoms................................................ Cuff shanks............. .................................... Line up shanks............................................. Line up heel breasts.................................... Brush off dust............................................... Bleach bottoms............................................ Ink heels, second time................................ Dye and ink bottoms.................................. Stain bottoms.............................................. Iron bottoms................................................ Roll bottoms................................................. Cut shanks.................................................... Wheel and stripe............. ............................ Wax bottoms................................................ Polish bottoms............................................ Bead heels..................................................... Burnish heels........................ ’. ..................... C le a n ........................................................... Pull lasts........................................................ Inspect........................................................... Stamp soles................................................... Organization................................................. 44.000 15.000 20.000 38.000 44.000 12.000 180.000 28.000 24.000 44.000 46.000 42.000 38.000 20.000 12.000 20.000 32.000 50.000 40.000 40.000 60.000 16.000 84.000 30/000 40.000 24.000 74.000 60.000 70.000 30.000 3a 000 9a 340 .500 .290 .150 .270 .500 .150 3.950 .180 .200 .350 .700 .550 .400 .250 .150 .230 .250 .460 .500 .400 .850 .200 1.000 .150 .200 .180 1.000 .450 .500 .280 .170 .670 .682 1.160 .450 .426 .682 .750 1.317 .386 .500 .477 .913 .786 .632 .750 .750 .690 .469 .552 .750 .600 .850 .750 .714 .300 .300 .450 .811 .450 .429 .560 .340 .445 Total.................................................... 1,467.340 16.080 .658 240.000 40.000 130.000 64.660 100.000 60.000 60.000 20.000 32.000 19.000 40.000 31.000 33.000 80.000 347.370 1.750 .180 .550 1.250 .450 .300 .300 .180 .200 .100 .280 .170 .200 .450 1.430 .438 .270 .254 1.160 .270 .300 .300 .540 .375 .316 .420 .329 .364 .338 .247 slug.................................................. Trim heels.................. .............................................. Breast........................................................................ Trim edges................................................................. Joint............................................................................ Organization and general work.............................. Total 100.00 37.50 333.33 428.57 75.00 75.00 250.00 ido. 00 121.65 35.29 157.89 14.46 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 136.36 400.00 300.00 157.89 136.36 500.00 33.33 214.29 250.00 136.36 130.43 142.86 157.89 300.00 500.00 309.00 187.50 120.00 15a 00 is a o o 10a 00 375.00 71.43 20a 00 m oo 25a 00 81.08 100.00 85.71 200.00 200.00 66.42 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Cut throats (surplus leather of quarter lining)... Inspect.......................................................................... Sock linings.................................................................. Clean and iron, hand........................................ Inktofid................................................................ Dress............................................................................. Inspect and trim threads.......................................... Button.......................................................................... Rub edges............................................................ *"*" Brush bottoms........................................................... Repair........................................................................... Label cartons............................................... _............ Stamp cartons..................................................... I_. Pack................................... ........................................... Organization and general work............. Total.................................................................. 1,297.030 7.790 .360 Grand total....................................................... 14,930.502 128.455 .516 25.00 m oo 46.15 92.79 60.00 100.00 100.00 300.00 187.50 315.79 150.00 193.55 181.82 75.00 17.27 81 ESTABLISHMENT NO. 2. TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M ID -W E S T E R N D IS T R IC T . Men’s Goodyear welt, plump tan elk blucher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Handle material..................................................................... Selecting patterns for cutters............................................. Give out work to cutters...................................................... Cut uppers, machine............................................................. Mate shoes............................................................................... Cut toe pieces, machine........................................................ Lay out shoes to ticket.......................................................... Tie up shoes............................................................................ Mark tips................................................................................. Stamp shoes, case number, etc............................................ Stamp box toes, case number, etc....................................... Skive top and front of quarters............................................ Bevel quarters wide (top and front)................................... Bevel back and bottom of quarters.................................... Bevel tips................................................................................. Bevel toes of vamps............................................................... Bevel throat of v a m p s .-...................................................... Bevel box toes......................................................................... Split tongues............................................................................ Split backstays....................................................................... Skive backstays...................................................................... Bevel bottom of tongues...................................................... Perforate tips........................................................................... Crimp vamps.......................................................................... Count and check shoes........................................................ . Cut trimmings, machine...................................................... Lav out trimmings to ticket................................................. Tie up trimmings................................................................... Cut linings, machine.............................................................. Lay out linings..................................................................... Mark linings, pricking machine.......................................... Stamp linings, case number, etc.......................................... Check linings.......................................................................... Cut deadheads........................................................................ Carry deadheads..................................................................... Rush......................................................................................... S w e e p .................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total___ ____________ _________________ 118.800 20.000 20.000 270.000 35.000 25.000 15.0C0 15.000 1.000 30.000 10.000 65.000 32.000 55.000 15.500 21.500 28.500 25.000 8.000 10.000 30.000 20.000 15.000 35.000 75.000 60.000 15.000 15.000 30.000 10.000 10.000 10.000 5.000 - 40.000 40.000 20.000 22.862 60.000 $1.070 .080 .075 3.310 .320 .360 .125 .110 .003 .275 .080 .250 .125 .330 .080 .125 .165 .125 .110 .070 .140 .070 .110 .275 .345 .370 .140 .095 .170 .100 .125 .110 .020 .300 .150 .075 .133 .990 $0,540 .240 .225 .735 .549 .864 .500 .440 .180 .550 .480 .231 .234 .360 .310 .349 .347 .300 .825 .420 .280 .210 .440 .471 .276 .370 .560 .380 .340 .600 .750 .660 .240 .450 .225 .225 .349 .990 1,333.162 10.906 .491 59.400 40.000 10.000 27.000 100.000 35.000 80.000 30.000 10.000 10.000 15.000 70.500 20.000 30.000 65.000 400.000 25.000 43.000 60.000 25.000 180.000 120.000 40.000 35.000 83.000 70.000 34.000 20.000 .530 .210 .055 .110 .690 .275 .480 .125 .055 .080 .110 .370 .150 .140 .220 2.300 .220 .190 .250 .190 1.240 .895 .180 .140 .620 .550 .275 .125 .535 .315 .330 .244 .414 .471 .360 .250 .330 .480 .440 .315 .450 .280 .203 .345 .528 .265 .250 .456 .413 .448 .270 .240 .448 .471 .485 .375 50.51 300.00 300.00 22.22 171.43 240.00 400.00 400.00 6,000.00 200.00 600.00 92.31 187.50 109.09 387.10 279.07 210.53 240.00 750.00 600.00 200.00 300.00 400.00 171.43 80.00 100.00 400.00 400.00 200.00 600.00 600.00 600.00 1,200.00 150.00 150.00 300.00 262.44 100.00 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Handle material..................................................................... Line vamps.............................................................................. Mate vamps and tips............................................................ Size vamps for tippers........................................................... Stitch tips, first row.............................................................. Place box toes.......................................................................... Stitch tips, second row........................................................ Trim toe pieces. ..................................................................... Singe tips................................................................................. Singe vamps............................................................................ Size vamps for vampers........................................................ Close quarters......................................................................... Rub down back of quarters................................................. Mark panels.......................................................................... . Reenforce quarters................................................................ Stitch panels............................................................................ Blind stays.............................................................................. Cement backstays................................................................. Fold backstays, hand........................................................... Cement top and front of quarters....................................... Fold top and front of quarters............................................. Backstay.................................................................................. Trim quarters.......................................................................... Size quarters...................... .................................................... Sew on lining side stays........................................................ Sew on lining backstays...................................................... Stitch top bands............................................... .................... Trim back of linings............... ............................................. 101.01 150.00 600.00 222.22 60.00 171.43 75.00 200.00 600.00 600.00 400.00 85.11 300.00 200.00 92.31 15.00 240.00 139.53 100.00 240.00 33.33 . 50.00 150.00 171.43 72.29 85.71 176.47 300.00 82 TIME AND LABOB COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. g—Men’s Goodyear welt, plump tan elk blucher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded. Trim top of linings................................................................ Size linings............................................................................. Line tongues...................... ................................................... Stitch tops ........................ .....................—............................ Eyelet....................................................................................... Inspect work............................................................................ Stitch tongues, first row........................................................ Seam toes.................................................................................. Trim shoes........................................... .................................. Match vamps and quarters. ........... .............. ..................... Size quarters for vampers... ................................................. Stiteh tongues, second row................................................... Vamp....................................... ......................... ........ ........... Tack............................................................~ .......................... Lace (“ Ensign” ) ................................................................... Crown............................... ...................................................... Check out work............. ....................................................... Rush.......................... .............................................................. Deadheads...................................................... ........................ Get out backstays................ ................................................. Templet linings................. ............................. ..................... Fitting room supplies............................................................ Repair linings.............................................. ......................... Organization...................... —................................................. Sweep........... ...................... ..................... ............................... Operate elevators............. ................. ,........ ....................... Total__________ ________ _________________ 30.000 10.000 90.000 368.000 39.000 16.000 50.000 45.000 19.000 5.000 25.000 78.000 360.000 70.000 36.000 36.000 80.000 80.000 80.000 20.000 20.000 80.000 20.000 140.000 22.862 22.862 $0.120' .040 .550 2.110 .210 .055 .410 .190 .070 .020 .100 .320 3.310 .250 .250 .150 .480 .480 .430 .130 .100 .210 .100 1.440 .133 .133 $0,240 ,2 4 0 .367 .344 .323 .220 .492 .253 .221 .240 .240 .246 .552 .214 .417 .250 .360 .360 .323 .390 .300 .158 .300 .617 .349 .349 3,578.624 22.566 .378 20.000 60.000 7.000 7.000 .400 .880 .050 .030 1.200 .880 .429 .257 94.000 1.360 .868 20.000 50.000 4.000 5.000 .340 .660 .040 .070 1.020 .792 .600 .840 200.00 600.60 66.67 16*30 153.85 400.00 m oo 133*33 315. 1 9 1,200.00 240.60 76.92 16.67 85.71 166.67 166.67 75.00 75.00 7&60 300.00 300.00 75.00 300.00 42.86 262.44 262.44 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Truck and weigh leather................................... ............ C u t.................................................. ..............................— Grade, sort, and rack....................... ........... ................. Tie up and count............................... ........................... Total__________________________________________ Insoles: Roll and split leather..................................................... Cut..................................................................................... Grade, sort, and rack..................... : ................. ............ Lay out insoles to ticket.......................... .......... .......... Total _ _ _____ Collators, leather1 Box. toes, leather L Heels, leather l __ _ __ _____ _____ __ __________ . _ ... _ ___ ____ Stock fitting: Get heels out of stock......................................... ............ Shank outsoles................................................................ Emboss outsoles.............. ................................................ Round insoles................................................................... Channel insoles............................ ............ ..................... Cement insoles................................................................. Turn up insole channels................................................ Cut canvas on insoles....................................... ............ Crease eanvas on insoles................................... ........... Reenforce insoles...... .................................................... Cut down heels on insole.............................................. Emboss insoles.................................................... ........... Inspect, size, and tie up insoles.................................... Bale scrap leather.......................................................... Sweep__________________________ _________________ Organization.................................... ............................... Total_ . _ _,r Total, sole-leather department _ _______ 79.000 1.118 .843 158.915 113.788 230.247 1.314 1.033 2.147 .496 .545 .559 13.000 16.000 9.000 11.000 35.000 25. COO 31.000 15.000 15.000 19.000 10.000 10.000 40.000 20.000 22.862 80.000 .140 .210 .040 .275 .620 .190 .250 .165 .190 .210 .080 .055 .340 .140 .133 1.270 .646 .788 .267 L500 1.063 .456 .484 .660 .760 .663 .480 .330 .510 .420 .349 .953 371.862 1 4.308 .695 1.047.812 1 11.272 -.......... - .645 I 300. CO 100.00 857.14 857.14 300.00 120.00 1,500. 00 1,200.00 461.54 375.00 666.67 545.45 171.43 240.00 193.55 400.00 400.00 315.79 600.00 600.00 150 00 300.00 262.41 75.00 * These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 83 ESTABLISHMENT NO. 2, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IST R ICT , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 2 .— M e n ’ s Goodyear welt, pump tan elk blucher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Get out. lasts ,, r„ , _ ____ Get out uppers and ennnters ____ _ _ _ _ __ Tank on insoles ,, , _ _ ___ Chalk fasts ti , , L„...... ____ Trim insole seats . r _ _ _ __ Inspect insoles . *„.....,„ T„ „ . . . n - __ Put away lasts______________________ ______________ Assemble for pnll-nver machine, ... _ ____ _ Pub over, machine .............................. ..... . . . Aide last, maehine ............................ Operate W-d machine _ __ Crown_________________________________ ’__________ Deadhead and rush . . . _. .. . ___ Gobble . . . _ ... _ _ _ _ Operate elevators „ .. . Sweep _ .. .. . . . . ___ . Organization --- _______ _ - - Total _________________ 30.000 12.000 38.000 10.000 20.000 20.000 30.000 20.000 115.000 128.700 180.000 270.000 55.000 30.000 30.000 22.862 22.862 50.000 $0,345 .075 .260 .040 .110 .110 .270 .100 1.450 1.930 2.410 4.130 .630 .170 .310 .133 .133 .670 $0 .690 .375 .411 .240 .330 .330 .540 .300 .756 .900 .803 .918 .687 .3.40 .620 .349 .349 .804 1,084.424 13.276 .735 26.400 26.400 38.300 70.000 15.000 30.000 45.000 25.000 30.000 30.600 30.000 50.400 15.000 35.000 70.000 125.000 30.000 15.000 .220 .220 .385 1.585 .070 .235 .760.320 .290 .165 .210 .210 .060 .550 1.170 2.135 .310 ,150 .500 .500 .603 1.359 .280 .470 L013 ,768 .580 .250 .420 .250 .240 .943 1.003 1,025 .620 .600 119.05 400.00 171.43 85.71 48.00 200.00 400.00 30.000 30.000 14.000 2a ooo 17.000 68.000 30.000 25,000 35.000 35.000 26.000 31.000 31.000 28.000 28.000 25.000 36.000 37.000 160.000 18.000 22.862 22.862 120.000 .190 .150 .100 . 275 .090 .620 .170 .100 .780 .345 .140 .160 .550 .190 .120 .125 .370 .620 2.690 .110 .133 .133 3.540 .380 .300 .429 .825 .318 .547 . 340 .240 1.337 .591 .323 .310 1.065 .407 .257 .300 .617 1.005 1.009 .367 .349 .349 .770 200.00 200.00 428.57 300.00 352.94 88.24 m oo m oo 171.43 171.43 230.77 193.55 193.55 214.29 214.29 240.00 166.67 162.16 37.50 333.33 262.44 262.44 50.00 1,605.824 18.746 700 200.00 500.00 157.89 600.00 300.00 300.00 200.00 300.00 52.17 46.62 33.33 22.22 109.09 200.00 200.00 262.44 262.44 128.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes_____ . . . . _____________ ____ ______________ Staple uppers ....... ... . . ... Pun side taeks_____________________________________ Goodyear welt ..... .... _ ..... "Raise anehor tanks __ . _ .. . ....... . Pull- insole tanks.. _n . . . . _ . Trim inseams _n _ . ..... . . . Peat welts . . . Joint______________________________________________ Shank................................................................................. Fill bottoms_______________________________________ Gement ontsoJes__ . . _ . Cement bottoms... _ _ . ... Ti.ay soles______ ... _ . . Rough round______________ ______ _________________ Goodyear stiteh _ .. . Gobble . ...... ............... Groove welts______________________________________ Deadhead and wet up stoek ...... Inspect____________________________________________ Feather foreparts .. ._ . Nail seats ............. ... ..... . Trim seats _ ___ . .. ____ ... Travel _ _ _ _ _ .. _ __ Sort for heeler. ______________________________________ Gloss stitches___________________________ ____ ______ TTaaT, leather hasas _ Feed bases ___ Aaud and eetment leather bases_______ ___ Get out and eement rnbher heels___ .. ___ Spot rubber heels _. _______ _ _ Heel, rubber heels ... ... . _ Feed rnbher heels . . _ _____ Feather eonneetions... ............ .............. ......... ..... . _ Breast . . . . _ _ . Trim heels Trim edges Gobble aud inspect, . „r_______ Sweep ___ ___ __ Operate elevators__ _ . ___ _ . . . . Organization___ ___ _ . Total T „„„„ T ^ __ 227.27 227.27 156.66 85.71, 400.00 200.00 133. $1 240.00 200.00 151.52 m oo 84 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D • W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Men’s Goodyear welt, plump tan elk blueher, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 28.000 26.000 27.000 26.000 36.000 23.000 141.000 23.000 14.000 % 10.000 17.000 28.000 16.800 36.000 20.000 20.000 60.000 17.000 23.000 15.000 22.862 22.862 2a 000 $0,275 .440 .300 .345 .370 .210 2.690 .125 .060 .055 .290 .220 .140 .480 .300 .080 .690 .070 .276 .070 .133 .133 .460 $0,589 1.015 .667 .796 .617 .548 1.145 .326 .257 .330 1.024 .471 .500 .800 .900 .240 .828 .247 .717 .280 .349 .349 1.380 . ___ 662.524 8.211 .744 Out tacks............... ................................................................. .Pad heels................- ................................................................ Bum threads......... ................................................................. Tree, hand..................................................................... .......... Emboss top facings................1.............................................. Iron tongues.........................- .................................................. Polish uppers........................................................................... Brush heels............................................................................... Press top facings..................................................................... Repair................. ...................................................................... Clean linings............................................................................ Rag edges......... .................................................................... Mark cartons........................................................................... 82.800 52.800 18.000 195.000 17.000 35.000 50.000 15.000 20.000 40.000 30.000 15.000 20.000 * 25.000 70.000 20.000 20.000 266.640 22.862 22.862 40.000 .345 .220 .100 1.340 .080 .165 .235 .080 .210 .410 .120 .190 .100 .190 .550 .100 .100 .133 .133 .620 .250 .250 .333 .412 .282 .283 .282 .320 .630 .615 .240 .760 .300 .456 .471 .300 .300 .450 .349 .349 .930 1,077.964 7.421 .413 10,390.334 92.398 .534 Repair and straighten heels.................................................. Scour heels, first time............................................................ Sand breasts...................... j.................................................... Beat seats.................................................................................. Scour heels, second time....................................................... Dope heels............................... ............................................... Set edges................................................................................... Inspect................................ - .................................................... Change shoes on rack..................................... ...................... Inspect...................................................................................... Scour heels, third time.......................................................... Ink heels................................................................................... Align breasts............................................................................ Stain bottoms............................................... —....................... Finish bottoms........................................................................ Clean bottoms......................................................................... Burnish heels........................................................................... Cut strings.............................................................................. Pull lasts................................................................................... Stamp bottoms................................................................ Sweep......................- ................................................................ Operate elevators................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total _ _ _ ___ ________ 214.29 230.77 222.22 230.77 166.67 26a 87 42.55 260.87 428.57 600.00 352.94 214.29 357.14 166.67 300.00 300.00 120.00 352.94 260.87 400.00 262.44 262.44 300.00 TREEING AND PACFING DEPARTMENT. Pack........................................................................................... Running errands..................................................................... Pushing racks......................................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Operate elevators................................................................ Organization............... ............. ................... .......................... Total r T r__ _ _ __ _ Grand total_____________________________________ 2.000 72.46 113.64 333.33 30.77 352.94 171.43 120.00 400.00 300.00 150.00 200.00 400.00 300.00 24aCO 85.71 300.00 300.00 22.50 262.44 262.44 150.00 ESTABLISHMENT NO, 8. 85 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 8 . —Men’s Goodyear welt cordovan, russia calf blucher, 9£ iron leather sole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Stock-room work..................................................................... Cut shoes, machine............* ................................................. Skive tops................................................................................. Skive vamps............................................................................ Skive tips.................................................................................. Skive backstays....................................................................... Skive vamp toes..................................................................... Punch tips............................................................................... Cut linings, machine.............................................................. Cut vamps, doubler.............................................................. Cut Quarters, doubler............................................................ Stamp linings........................................................................... Cut backstays, hand............................................................ Cut side stays, hand.............................................................. Cut heel stays, hand.............................................................. Cut facings, hand................................................................... Skive heels stay....................................................................... Skive tongues.......................................................................... Skive side stays.......................... ............................... ............ Skive side-stay ends............................................................... Skive facings............................................................................ Skive facing ends.................................................................... Mark tops......................................................... ^..................... Cement and join side stays................................................... Selecting patterns for cutters............................................... Sort (vamps, etc.)................................................................... Back........................................................................................... Assemble.................................................................................. Sweep........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................. 132.000 400.000 96.000 27.000 10.000 30.000 15.000 34.000 43.000 22.000 63.000 40.000 24.000 100.000 24.000 60.000 30.000 20.000 60.000 35.000 35.000 30.000 62.000 60.000 22.000 117.000 131.000 66.000 22.000 110.000 $1,260 6.380 .740 .180 .150 .210 .190 .150 .600 .350 .300 .300 .250 .820 .250 .750 .210 .150 .420 .300 .290 .190 .600 .700 .110 2.930 .660 .390 .186 1.430 $0,573 .957 .463 .400 .900 .420 .760 .265 .837 .955 .286 .450 .625 .492 .625 .750 .420 .450 .420 .514 .497 .380 .581 .700 .300 1.503 .302 .355 .507 .780 Total............................................................................... 1,920.000 21.446 .670 22.000 41.000 41.000 25.000 27.000 50.000 50.000 .210 .310 .700 .350 .240 .300 .450 45.45 15.00 62.50 222.22 600.00 200.00 400.00 176.47 139.53 272.73 95.24 150.00 250.00 60.00 250.00 100.00 200.00 300.00 100.00 171.43 171.43 200.00 96.77 100.00 272.73 51.28 45.80 90.91 272.73 54.55 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Stock-room work..................................................................... Close tops................................................................................. Close lining to backstay....................................................... Close pieced top facing.......................................................... Rub tops................................................................................... Paste eyelet stays................................................................... Paste side linings..................................................................... Cement tops............................................................................ Fold tops.................................................................................. Stitch arch supports............................................................ Stitch eyelet rows................................................................... Stitch side stays...................................................................... Stitch facings........................................................................... Stitch tongue linings.............................................................. Stitch backstays.................................................................... Stitch box and tips................................................................. Stitch edges, linings, and tops............................................. Stitch tongues.......................................................................... H ook........................................................................................ Eyelet....................................................................................... Trim blucher throats............................................................. Trim vamp linings................................................................. Ink edges.................................................................................. Size and match tops and linings.......................................... Size and match tops and vamps.......................................... Vamp........................................................................................ Lace........................................................................................... Repair....................................................................................... Inspect tips.............................................................................. Inspect shoes............................................................................ Floor help................................................................................. Sweep........................................................................................ Organization...................—..................................................... Tntal 2 a 000 .2 0 0 83.000 40.000 188.000 83.000 72.000 47.000 167.000 93.000 188.000 72.000 35.000 31.000 40.000 15.000 63.000 25.000 24.000 250.000 30.000 17.000 44.000 .32.000 80.000 132.000 22.000 44.000 1.170 .450 .720 .750 .530 2.080 1.520 2.480 .600 .250 .480 .230 .110 .500 .440 .330 4,100 .360 .200 .546 .190 •500 1,310 .186 .880 .573 .454 1.024 .840 .533 .360 .540 .600 .846 .675 .638 .520 .625 .677 .747 .981 .791 .500 .429 .929 .345 .440 .476 1.056 .825 .984 .720 .706 .745 .356 .375 .595 .507 1.200 2,193.000 25.672 .702 2.000 272.73 146.34 146.34 240.00 222.22 120.00 120.00 300.00 72.29 150.00 . 31.91 72.29 83.33 127.66 35.93 64.52 31.91 83.33 171.43 193.55 150.00 400.00 95.24 240.00 250.00 24.00 200.00 352.94 136.36 187.50 75.00 45.45 272.73 136.36 Esssssssacaa 86 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS O F SHOES I N 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. Extateizhment Nor. 8.— Men’s Goodyear welt cordovan, russia call blacker, 9$ iron leather sole, 4/8leather heel base with rubber top lift— Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Weigh leather................................................................... cpt .. ... .......... Grade................................................................................. Sort...............................................................................— Case............................- ................................................... Total _ ______ _ . Insoles: c u t..................................................................................... Grade................................................................................. Sort..................................................................................... Case...... ..................................................................... ....... Total ... _ Conwtors, leather 1 Boar toes, leather l .. _ ....... __ _T Stock fitting: Round insoles................................................................... Stamp insoles.................................................................... Channel insoles................................................. ............. Cement economy insoles................................................ Gut and crease canvas................................................... Buff insoles....................................................................... Turn up insoles............................................................... Reenforce insoles................................................ .......... Inspect insoles____ _______________________________ Case and tie...................................................................... Check and label............................................................... Reduce shanks................................................................. Cement and tie outsoles................................................. Stamp outsoles................................................................ Trim scrap........................................................................ Bag stock........................................................................... Operate elevators............................................................ Sweep....................... - ............ .................... .................... Sand heel bases...... ..................................................... Spot heels.......................................................................... Sand breasts........................................................ ............ Case and count heels.......................... A ......................... Organization........................................................ _.......... Tntal____________ _ _______ T o ta l, sale-leather dep artm en t ________ __ Hourly wages. 22.000 57.000 14.000 40.000 26.000 $0150 .680 .120 .470 .400 $0,409 .716 .514 .705 .923 159.000 L 820 .687 57.000 14.000 40.000 13.000 .620 .120 .420 .110 .653 .514 .630 . 508 124.000 1.270 .615 158.915 113.788 230.247 1.314 L 033 2.147 .496 .545 .559 15.000 13.000 26.000 13.000 26.000 .13.000 26.000 36.000 30.000 13.000 13.000 13.000 19.000 22.000 22.000 22.000 22.000 22.000 13.000 19.000 13.000 44.000 88.000 .190 .100.400 . 160 .220 .120 .230 .220 .250 .150 .140 .140 .150 .140 .170 .150 .115 .186 .110 .150 .170 .400 1.290 .760 .462 .983 .738 .508 .554 .531 .367 .500 .692 .646 .646 .474 .382 .464 .409 .314 . 507 .508 .474 .785 .545 .880 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 272.73 105.26 428.57 150.00 230.77 105.26 428.57 150.00 461.54 ■a a g a 'J''"' 543.000 5.351 .591 1,328.950 12.935 .584 40.000 20.000 64.000 80.000 60.000 74.000 192.000 60.000 32.000 22.000 32.000 .500 . 250 1.120 1.600 .800 1.600 3.500 .730 .200 .186 .480 .750 .750 1.050 1.200 .800 1.297 1.094 .730 .375 .507 .900 676.000 10.966 .973 16.000 40.000 40.000 74.000 27.000 21000 .150 .300 .450 1.600 .400 .400 .563 .450 .675 L297 .889 LQQQ 400.06 461.54 230 77 461.54 230.77 461.54 230v 77 166.67 m oo 461.54 461.54 461.54 315. 79 272.73 272.73 272.73 272.73 272.73 461.54 315 79 461.54 136.36 68.18 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Pick lasts.................................................................................. Tack insoles............................................................. ............... Assemble for pull-over machine. A ...................................... PUD over, machine.................................................................. Draft sides................................................................................ Side last, machine..............................................................— Operate bed machine. ............................. .................. ......... Inspect.......................................................................... ............ Floes* work........ ............. .......................................... ............ Sweep...............................- ....................................................... Organization........ .......... .......................... ............................. T otal.. 150 00 300.09 93.75 75.00 100 00 81.08 31.25 100 60 187.56 272 73 187.50 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes......................................................................... ........ S t o l e - ...................................................................................... Pmr leeks , TT1. _ _ . .. Goodyear welt......................................................................... Trim inseams........................................................................... Butt welts________ _________ ______ _________ _____ _ 375.00 150 00 15000 81.08 222 22 250.00 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. E S T A B L IS H M E N T H O . 8. 87 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8.—Men’s Qoodyear welt cordovan, russia calf blucher, 9$ iron leather sole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. bottoming depabtment—concluded. Butt tacks..................................................... .......................... Pull insole tacks.................. ................................................... Beat welts................................................................................. Stick shanks............................................................................. Fill bottoms............................................................................. Cement welts........................................................................... Wet soles.................................................................................. Lay soles................................................................................... Nail seats................................................................................. Rough round............................................................................ Trim seats................................................................................ Open channels_______ __________ _________ ___________ Goodyear stitch....................................................................... Cement channels................................................................... _ Close channels........................................................................ Separate stitches..................................................................... Level......................................................................................... Pick heels___ 1 ......................................................................... Feed heels................................................................................. Trim heels........ ....................................................................... Fill heels................................................................................... Trim edges............................................................................... Joint............... .......................................................................... Cobble....................................................................................... Sweep........................................................... ........................... Organization........................................................ .................. Total_____ Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. 27.000 20.000 27.000 20.000 27.000 20.000 16.000 27.000 27.000 64.000 27.000 20.000 137.000 20.000 20.000 60.000 48.000 20.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 24.000 137.000 27.000 32.000 22.000 64.000 $0,300 .250 .250 .200 .280 .200 .200 .400 .250 1.250 .190 .200 2.250 .180 .250 .700 .450 .200 .750 .300 .750 .200 2.500 .450 .580 .186 .980 $0,667 .750 .556 • .600 .622 .600 .750 .889 .556 1.172 .422 .600 .986 .540 .750 .700 .563 .600 1.125 .450 1.125 .500 1.095 1.000 1.088 .507 .919 1,274.000 17.996 .848 20.000 48.000 80.000 32.000 20.000 53.000 24.000 20.000 48.000 74.000 32.000 80.000 40.000 32.000 32.000 22.000 22.000 32.000 .250 .650 1.350 .300 .170 .650 .250 .200 .600 .850 .300 .700 .350 .400 .200 .115 .186 .450 .750 .813 1.013 .563 .510 .736 .625 .600 .750 .689 .563 .525 .525 .750 .375 .314 .507 .844 711.000 7.971 .673 40.000 32.000 32.000 27.000 96.000 96.000 120.000 53.000 40.000 60.000 40.000 27.000 66.000 22.000 32.000 783.000 .240 .300 .250 .130 1.500 .900 1.050 .450 .250 .730 .220 .220 .760 .186 .500 7.686 .360 150.00 .563 187.50 .469 187.50 .289 222.22 .938 62.50 62.50 .563 .5255a 00 .509 113.21 .375 150.00 .730 100.00 .330 150.00 222.22 .489 .691 90.91 272.73 .507 187.50 .938 .589 1................ 8,885.950 104.672 222.22 300.00 222.22 300.00 222.22 300.00 375.00 222.22 222.22 93.75 222.22 300.00 43.80 300.00 300.00 100.00 125.00 300.00 150.00 150.00 150.00 250.00 43.80 222.22 187.50 272.73 93.75 ---------— FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts............................................................................ Scour heels................................................................................ Set edges, first time ........ .................................................. Stain edges, first time...... ..................................................... Size heels.............. .......................... ........................................ Set edges, second time............................................................ Smooth heels................................................................... ........ Stain heels................................................................................ Burnish heels........................................................................... Sand bottoms.........................................................- ................ Gum bottoms..:..................................................................... Roll bottoms............................................................................ Clean uppers............................................................................ Pull lasts.................................................................................. Floor work............................................................................... Operate elevators................. ......... .................. .................. Sweep.................................................... ................................... Organization..................... . ............................ ...................... Total. - TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Feel tacks................................................................................. Stamp bottoms....................................................................... Sock linings.. ............... ........................................................ Emboss..................................................................................... Iron or tree, hand................................................................... Repair..................................................................................... : Dress.......... .............................................................................. B r u sh ...................................................................................... Lace........................................................................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Mark cartons........................................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Ship........................................................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Organization.......................................................................... Total___________________________________________ Grand total _ _ ______ _ _ .... __ _ .707 , 300.00 125.00 75.00 187.50 300 00 113.21 250.00 300.00 125.00 81.08 187.50 75.00 150.00 187.50 187.50 272.73 272.73 187.50 88 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT. •TIME A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 14 — Women’s McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, wood heel with leather top lift. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Cut uppers, hand_____________________________________ Chit, linings, leather, hand _ _ __ _ Cut toe linings, hand .................. Stamp uppers____ _*__________________________________ Pta™P lirimgs,, T _ _ _ . . . . . . . Skive*uppers.......................................................................... Organization_________________________ ________________ 360.000 240.000 45.000 60.000 45.000 90.000 240.000 $5,000 2.250 .450 .450 .270 .680 4.200 $0,834 .563 .600 .450 .360 .453 1.050 T o t a l -........................................................................... 1,080.000 13.300 .739 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Close linings r Ptay linings, . ...................... Sew in drill__________ *________________________________ Lap seams, ' - .. _ ___ Sew in nnnslips _. Close covers________ _____ ______________________ __ __ Stitch vamp linings___________________________________ Press seams „ ........ Close uppers _ r .. _ . ptay uppers -...........__ ........ Cement quarters .- . Cement linings_______________________________________ Cement vamps_______________________________________ Fold quarters_________________________________________ Fold vamps___________________________________________ Work buttonholes____________________________________ Pew on buttons . .. Kit ...... Vamp________________________________________________ Stitch tops____________________________________________ Ptfteh French binding Fold Freneh binding, machine. _ ... Reinforce buttons and buttonholes. . .......... Sort and tie up________________________________________ Organization _ _ 60.000 30.000 60.000 60.000 100.000 30.000 30.000 30.000 45.000 45.000 30.000 30.000 30. GOO 65.000 65.000 60.000 45.000 180.000 360.000 240.000 330.000 240.000 75.000 60.000 120.000 .460 .230 .450 .450 .750 .230 .180 .250 .310 .310 .230 .180 .180 .590 .590 .450 .350 1.500 3.000 2.000 2.750 2.000 .640 .540 1.800 .460 .460 .450 .450 .450 .460 .360 .500 .413 .413 .460 .360 .360 .545 .545 .450 .467 .500 .500 .500 .500 .500 .512 .540 .900 _T . 2,420.000 2d 420 .506 Outsoles, leather 1 ............... _. .................. . Insoles, leather 1 . . . Counters, leather i . ....... _____ Top pieces, leather 1 , Box toes, leather1_____________________________________ 84.111 110.404 158.915 55.330 113.788 .892 1.069 1.314 .587 1.033 .*637 .581 .496 .636 .545 Stock fitting: Round soles Channel soles . Stamp soles . . . . . . Rhanlr _ _ . _ ...... General all-round work _. Organization _ * 30.000 35.000 15.000 40.000 180.000 120.000 .250 .330 .140 .350 3.780 2.000 .500 .566 .560 .525 1.260 1.000 Total _ - . . . . , • 16.67 25.00 133.33 100.00 133.33 66.67 25.00 100.00 200.00 100.00 100.00 60.00 200.00 200.00 m oo 133.33 133.33 200.00 200.00 200.00 92.31 92.31 100.00 133.33 33.33 16.67 25.00 18.18 25.00 8a 00 100.00 50.00 ’ SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. _ . _ . _ _ _ _ _ _ T o ta l. 420.000 6.850 .979 T o ta l, sole-leather d ep a rtm en t. 942.548 11.745 7m 200.00 171.43 400.00 150.00 33.33 50.00 _ i These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 14 89 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 14.—Women's McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, wood heel with leather top lift—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. 60.000 90.000 90.000 160.000 30.000 30.000 25.000 15.000 20.000 50.000 25.000 50.000 120.000 140.000 60.000 $1,200 1.800 1.750 2.750 .350 .350 .250 .150 .200 .500 .250 .550 1.250 1.500 1.000 $1,200 1.200 1.167 1.100 .700 .700 .600 .600 .600 .600 .600 .660 .625 .643 1.000 955.000 13.850 .870 McKay sew............................................................................. Nail seats.................................................................................. Wet up...................................................................................... Wet............................................................: .............................. Sort for leveler........................................................................ Cement channels.................................................................... Turn up leaf.......................................................................... Turn down leaf....................................................................... Wet for leveler. ..................................................................... Level........................................................................................ Relast....................................................................................... Trim edges............................................................................... Trim edge of top lifts............................................................. Trim shanks............................................................................ Cover wood heels.................................................................... Fit seats for wood heels.......................................... ............. Tack wood heels..................................................................... Glue and nail wood heels...................................................... Trim and sand........................................................................ Organization............................................................................ 60.000 30.000 15.000 15.000 15.000 30.000 15.000 15.000 15.000 60.000 90.000 60.000 60.000 60.000 420.000 120.000 105.000 120.000 60.000 180.000 .810 .230 .140 .180 .140 .360 .240 .230 .180 .900 1.250 1.250 1.000 1.000 4.500 1.800 1.360 1.800 .900 3.000 .810 .460 .560 .720 .560 .720 .960 .920 .720 .900 .833 1.250 1.000 1.000 .643 .900 .771 .900 .900 1.000 Total............................................................................... 1,545.000 21.260 .826 Finish heels............................................................................. Set edges................................................................................... Set edges of top lift................................................................. Sand bottoms............. ............................................................ Finish bottoms........................................................................ Trim and beat shanks........................................................... Cut off covers.......................................................................... Wheel bottoms and pull lasts.............................................. Organization............................................................................ 450.000 120.000 60.000 110.000 120.000 120.000 90.000 45.000 60.000 7.650 1.620 .900 1.610 1.630 2.000 1.130 .590 .900 1.020 .810 .900 .878 .815 1.000 .753 .787 .900 Total............................................................................... 1,175.000 18.030 .921 230.000 100.000 60.000 60.000 30.000 30.000 45.000 60.000 120.000 120.000 60.000 2.250 .910 .900 .450 .230 .230 .330 .450 1.000 1.200 .900 .587 .546 .900 .450 .460 .460 .440 .450 .500 .600 .900 Assemble for pullers-over, machine..................................... Pull over, machine...... ........................................................... Side last, machine................................................................... Operate bed machine............................................................. Tack insoles........................ ................................................... Pull lasts................................................................................... Get out lasts............................................................................ Put away lasts......................................................................... Bring up stock......................................................................... Pound toes............................................................................... Pull tacks................................................................................. Fill shanks................................................. ............................. Tack outsoles........................................................................... Cover_________________________________________________ Organization............................................................................ Total___________________________________________ 100.00 66.67 66.67 40.00 200.00 20 a 00 240.00 400.00 300.00 120.00 240.00 120.00 50.00 100.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. 100.00 200.00 400.00 400.00 400.00 200.00 400.00 400.00 400.00 100.00 66.67 100.00 100.00 100.00 14.29 50.00 57.14 60.00 100.00 33.33 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. 13.33 50.00 100.00 54.55 50.00 50.00 66.67 133.33 100.00 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Tree, hand............................................................................... Sock linings and cleaning linings........................................ Ink edges.................................................................................. Brush bottoms........................................................................ Button...................................................................................... Reeds........................................................................................ Dress......................................................................................... Pack and mark cartons......................................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Ship........................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total.............................................................................. 915.000 8.850 .580 Grand total_____________________________________ 9,032.548 107.455 .714 26.09 60.00 100.00 100.00 20 a 00 200.00 133.33 100.00 50.00 50.00 100.00 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS— M ID-WESTERN DISTRICT, 90 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS I N T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF m PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 7 .— Women’s McKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole, cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Stock clerk _ _ __ _ _ __ Stock clerk's helper _ Selecting pattern's for cutters ___ _ _ „ Out vamps and whole shoes, hand Stamp uppers-_______________________________________ Give out fancy stitch tracings ...... Stkhra uppers ‘ ____ _ _ . ...... s o r t - . ; . : _____________ _______________________________ Die out rubber backing_______________________________ Die out fancy cut-outs________________________________ Strip (iron rubber backings . . m. . . . . . . ... Aasemihle uppers .... , . Chitting cripples. , r Sort stock for trimmings.... ....... . ._ Cut doublers, hand. .. . . _ _ Outlinings, hand _ _ Case linings .. .. . .. . Cut trimming*, hand . _______ __ . . . -Sort................ trimmingsSort sock linings.. _ . _ Stamp linings _ . „ _ Assemble trimmings__________________ _______________ Cut back shoe trimmings . . . ___ . _ .. .. Oreanization _ _ Total _________ _____ STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Assemble - . Gloae lin in g s.__ ________________________ ____________ Rub down lining.seams .. . . ...... fltitcb nonslips .. . . . .„ _ _ Lap linings .. _ ....... Stitch to« pieces „... . ___ . . . rttnee quarters .............. . _ Stay quarters _ ___ . _ ___ __ __ Reinforce for buttons and buttonholes . .. Cement tongue underlays_____________________________ Stitch tongues, fancy _ Trim underlays .. .. . . . . . . . ... Stitch tongue collars___ ________________________ ____ Gement. bottom of tongue collars ... ..... _ Fold'bottom. of tongue collars ... _ _ ___ ...... ___ Double, v a m p ............... Mato vamps _ __ .... ............. Mating for -Campers __ _ . . . . , , Vamp ... r . T Bind............. ........................................................................... Give ont inlay, work ...-. Lay in lipinga for inseamers . _ .. ... .. __ _ . _ Stiteb pumps__ . Stitch buckram in lining. _ _ . . _ Make hnttnnhnles Trim linings _ __ . . . Sew buttons . . . Trim a^d button . . . . shoes . . _. Inspect ....... Mend, .... _ _ shoe work Floor work ___ ________ _____________________________ Folder teacher... . _ . .. ........... Orcanization. ___________ ___________ __ _ ____ Total___- . ______ __ Hourly wages. 27.778 12.444 12.664 458.333 41.667 125.000 12.198 11.990 55.556 55.556 11.737 111. Ill 250.000 125.000 11.313 12.713 13.889 19.444 8.333 305.556 41.667 12. 714 36! Ill 12.712 13.200 50.856 $0,382 .078 .106 7.639 .281 .972 .083 .083 .486 .764 .069 .694 1.389 .833 .156 .175 .172 .347 .057 1.917 .206 .053 .222 .080 .110 1.204 $ft825 .376 .502 1.000 .465 .467 .408 .415 .525 .825 .353 .375 .333 .400 .827 .826 .743 1.071 .410 .376 .297 .250 .369 .378 .500 1.420 1,849.542 18.558. .602 8.333 27.778 13.889 69.444 97.222 41.667 16.667 41.667 19.444 66.067 166.667 33.333 25.000 30.556 86. Ill 25.000 8.333 13.889 263.889 111. Ill 5,556 13,889 175.000 69.444 27.778 47.222 13.889 41.667 25.428 33.333 25.428 50.856 63.570 12.714 127.282 .042 .181 .069 .625 .833 .522 .250 .278 .175 .556 1.389 .181 .167 .278 .556 .167 .056 .083 4.861 1.944 .056 . 139 2.583 - .694 .250 .164 .167 .294 .089 .400 .150 .292 .243 .097 1.163 .302 .391 .298 .540 .514 .752 .900 .400 .540 .500 .500 .326 .401 • .546 .387 .401 .403 .359 1.105 1.050 .605 .600 .886 .600 .540 .208 .721 .423 .210 .720 .354 .345 .229 .458 .548 1,899. 723 19.994 = 5S .631 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 216.00 482.16 473.78 13.09 144.00 48.00 491.88 500.42 108.00 108.00 51L20 54.00 24.00 48.00 530.36 471.95 432.00 308.58 720.03 19.64 144.00 471.92 166.15 471.99 454.55 117.98 720.03 216,00 432.00 86.40 61.71 144.00 359.99 144.00 308.58 90.00 36.00 180.00 240. CO 196.36 69.68 240.00 720.03 432. GO 22.74 54.00 1,079.91 432.00 34.29 86.40 216.00 127.06 432.00 144.00 235.96 180.00 235.96 117.98 94; 38 471.92 47; 14 91 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 17< TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 192a, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPE RATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women's McKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole, cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift— Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 17 — Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Cut............................ - ..................................................... Grade........................- - ......................... —................... Sort............................... ..................................................... Rack....... ........................................................................... Case.......... ......................................................................... General work.................................................................... Tnt.al 39.000 14.170 44.620 7.240 14.580 15.750 $0,519 .100 .502 .051 .156 .170 $0,798 .423 .675 .423 .642 .648 135.360 1.498 .664 Insoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade........- ........................................................................ Sort..................................................................................... Rack................................................................................... Case................................... ............................................... General work............................................ ...................... 38.880 10.500 58.770 2.620 14.580 12.350 .413 .038 .472 .023 .123 .061 .637 .217 .482 .527 .506 .296 _______________ 137.700 1.130 . 492 43.232 10.500 8.070 18.750 11.660 2.540 15.440 49.490 .474 .133 .078 .175 .108 .015 .124 .337 .658 .760 .580 .560 .556 .354 .482 .409 159. 682 1.444 .543 113. 788 1.033 .545 240.000 48.600 21.000 2.000 .340 .200 .500 .420 .571 309.600 2.540 .492 13.889 16.667 13.889 5.833 13.889 15.681 .132 .133 .139 .056 .144 22.222 19.444 15.278 16. 667 11.111 15.278 8.333 16.667 16.667 13.&89 15.440 25.428 .175 .175 .106 .153 .106 .189 .061 .167 .156 .110 .124 .333 .570 .479 .600 .576 .622 .849 .473 .540 .416 .551 .572 .742 .439 .601 .562 .475 .482 .786 276.272 2.681 .582 10.326,[ .547 Total _ _________________ Counters: Cut..................................................................................... Sort..................................................................................... Skive............ ..................................................................... Mold................................................................................... Sort..................................................................................... Back.................................................................................... Fit stock........................................................................... General work.................................................................... Total __________ Bnr toes, leather 1 _ * Heels: Cut heel lifts, sort, etc........................................ .......... Build heels........................................................................ Tack rands................. ... ................................................. Total _____ Stock fitting: Assemble stock................................................................ Temper stock.................................................................... Sand outsoles................................................................... Stamp outsoles................................................................. Round outsoles..................................................... ......... Channel outsoles................................. ........................... Flesh outsoles............. — ................................................ Shank out (moek turn)................................................. Mold outsoles.................................................................... Turn channels.................................................................. Ink fudge edge of soles.................................................... Round insoles................................................................... Score and dip insoles..................................................... Feather edge insoles........................................................ Put on heel pieces.................................................... ....... Crown and assemble....................................................... General work, insoles...................................................... Organization.................................. .............................. . Tntal Total, sole-leather department__________________ 1,132.402 | .222 153.85 423.43 134.47 828.73 411.52 380.95 154.32 573'. 43 102.09 2,29tt 08 411.52 485.83 138.79 571.43 743.49 320.00 514.58 2,362. 20 388.60 121.24 1 25.00 123.46 285.71 432.00 359.99 432.00 1,028.63 432 00 382.63 270.00 308.58 392. 72 359.99 540.01 392 72 720.00 359.99 359.99 432.00 388.60 235.96 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 92 t im e a n d l a b o r c o st s — MID-WESTERN d is t r ic t . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023. B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 17.—Women’s M cKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole, cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost, (minutes). of 100 pairs Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT. Assemble uppers and lasts.................................................... Sort lasts................................................................................... Assemble insoles, counters, and box toes.......................... Give out work......................................................................... Assemble for pull-over machine........................................... Pull over, machine............................................................. Side last, machine................................................................... Operate bed machine. .......................................................... Knock tacks............................................................................. Pound up.................................................................................. Tack shanks............................................................................. Fill bottoms............................................................................ Tack soles.................................................... ........................... Pull lasts................................................................................... Pull paper covers....................................... ........................... Crown....................................................................................... Back shoe work....................................................................... Floor work................................................... .................i ........ Cobble....................................................................................... Organization............................................................................. Total. .................... . 13.889 19.444 13.889 12.714 227.778 100.000 130.556 241.667 13.889 33.333 27.778 13.889 83.333 41.667 13.889 30.556 12.714 12. 714 12,714 25.428 $0,116 .222 .083 .121 2.278 1.389 1.667 3.139 .139 .347 .194 .097 .694 .347 .065 .208 .108 .068 .132 .375 $0,501 .685 .359 .571 .600 .833 .766 .779 .600 .625 .419 .419 .500 .500 .281 .408 .510 .321 .623 .885 1,081.841 11.789 .654 *12.714 41.667 12.714 19.444 69.444 11. I ll 8.333 13.889 11. Ill 55.556 36. Ill 36. Ill 11. Ill 12.714 33.333 144.444 25.428 .073 .208 .062 .176 .972 .139 .078 .167 .067 .556 .522 .181 .074 .086 .122 .433 .417 .294 .347 1.833 .386 .345 .300 .293 .543 .840 .751 .562 .721 .362 .600 .867 .301 .400 .406 .329 .468 .500 .794 .625 .761 .911 705.235 7.193 .612 19.444 33.333 12.714 41.667 13.889 125.000 13.889 12.714 30.656 .244 .278 .082 .361 .208 1.667 .181 .386 .347 .194 .167 .625 .069 .250 .486 .083 .347 .383 .156 .753 .500 .387 .520 .899 .800 .782 1.822 .681 .524 .401 .675 .373 .675 .583 .448 .681 .827 •842 432.00 308.58 432.00 471.92 26.34 60.00 45.96 24.83 432.00 180.00 216.00 432.00 72.00 144.00 432.00 196.36 471.92 471.92 471.92 235.96 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Wet up for M cKay sewers................................................... Cement heel and rubber tips............................................... Cement heel bases........................................... ....................... Nail heel seats.-............................. .......................... ......... M cKay sew............................................................................. Break soles............................................................................... Cement........................ ................................................. .......... Wet up...................................................................................... Level....................................................................................... Heel........................................................................................... Feed heels.......................... ........................... —..................... Crown and cement rubber heels......................................... Cobble...................................................................................... Set up lasts.............................................................................. Relast............................................. - ......................................... Trim heels................................................... ........................... Breast heels...................................................... ...................... Joint.......................................................................................... Trim edges............................................................................... Organization........................................................................... Total_________________________ ___ 22.222 55.556 50.000 22.222 47L92 144.00 471.92 308.58 86.40 54ft 01 72a 00 54a 01 432.00 108.00 166.15 16a 15 540.01 471.92 270.00 108.00 120.00 27a 00 180.00 41.54 235.96 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts............................................................................ Scour heels, first'time............................................................ Fill holes in heels.............. ..................................................... Dope heels................................................................................ Ink edges.................................................................................. Set edges........................................................ J......................... Brush edges.............................................................................. Cobble....................................................................................... Scour heels, second and third times................................... Enamel heels, first time..........^................. ........................ Scour heels, fourth time.....................- ................................. Sand bottoms.......................................................... ............... Brush dust.............................................................................. Enamel heels, second time................................................... Stain bottoms.......................................................................... Brush bottoms........................................................................ Polish bottoms........... ............ ................................................ Burnish heels........................................................................... Pull Ifcsts................................................................................... 22.222 25.000 55.556 11. Ill 22.222 50.000 11. Ill 30.556 27.778 11.111 308.58 18a 00 471.92 144.00 432.00 48.00 432.00 471.92 19a 36 27a 00 24a 00 108.00 64a 01 27a 00 m oo 64a 01 19a 36 2 iao o 64a 01 93 ESTABLISHMENT NO. 19. TJME A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t , N o . 1 7 .— Women’s McKay, one strap, patent leather oxford with gray kid inlay, single sole, cork insole, 4/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Throw lasts to bins........................................................... Stamp bottoms................................................................. Ink and enamel heels........................................................ Push racks......................................................................... Back shoe work................................................................. Organization...................................................................... 12.714 11. Ill 12. 714 .12.714 12.714 12.714 $0,053 .097 .106 .072 .053 .188 $0,250 .524 .500 .340 .250 .887 Total........................................................................ 644.554 7.083 .659 50.000 16.667 8.333 105.556 22.222 69.444 156.944 .116.667 ♦ 50.000 13.000 8.333 27.778 525.000 83.333 8.333 12.714 113.889 5.556 5.556 12.714 12.714 .208 .058 .083 .417 .194 .261 3.194 1.237 .269 .139 .039 .135 3.561 .568 .054 .087 .046 .053 .096 .188 .250 .209 .598 . 237 .524 .226 1.221 .636 .323 .642 .281 .292 .407 .409 .389 .411 .409 .497 .572 .453 .887 1,424.753 11.663 .406 8,738.050 86.606 .595 471.92 540.01 471.92 471.92 471.92 471.92 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Trim out uppers............................................................... Inspect packs.................................................................... Ink upper edges................................................................ Take out papers................................................................ Sock linings....................................................................... Tree, hand......................................................................... Iron out............................................................................ Emboss sock linings.......................................................... Button shoes..................................................................... Polish buttons................................ ................................. Sand tips...................... ................................................... Repair patent leather....................................................... Polish with fingers............................................................ Mark cartons.................................................................... Move boxes and cartons................................................... Pack.................................................................................. Seal cases........................................................................... Stencil cases............................................ ......................... Ship................................................................................... Organization...................................................................... Tntftl Orand total ... E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 9 . —Men’s .776 120.0® 359.99 720.03 56.84 270.00 86.4® 38.23 51.43 120.00 461.54 720.03 216.09 11.43 72.00 720.03 471.92 52.68 1,079.91 1,079.91 471.92 471.92 McKay, brown side leather bal., oak leather sole with slip sole, leather heel base with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT Sort leather and tickets......................................................... Cut vamps and whole shoes, machine............................... Selecting dies for cutters..................................................... Set up....................................................................................... Skive top of quarters.............................................................. Skive base of quarters............................................................ Skive toe of vamps................................................................. Skive heel of vamps............................................................... Skive'tips all around.............................................................. Perforate tips.......................................................................... Perforate vamps..................................................................... Skive tongues and side stays............................................... Set up side stays..................................................................... Cut linings, etc., machine..................................................... Set up linings.......................................................................... Utility work............................................................................ Pick up work.......................................................................... Stamp linings.......................................................................... Organization............................................................................ 31.000 468.000 10.000 31.000 22.000 38.000 10.000 10.000 18.000 16.000 84.000 21.000 18.000 10.000 13.000 57.000 20.000 11.000 10.375 $0,335 6.439 .106 .294 .203 .321 .101 .122 .159 .106 .552 .221 .141 .109 .064 .491 .201 .086 .182 Total___________________________________________ 898.375 10.233 84791°— 24t------7 $0,648 .825 .636 .569 .554 .507 .606 .732 .530 .398 .394 .631 .470 .654 .295 .517 .603 .469 1.053 .683 193.55 12.82 600.00 193.55 272.73 157.89 600.00 600.00 333.33 375.00 71.43 285.71 333.33 600.00 461.54 105.26 300.00 545.45 578.31 94 t im e a n d l a b o r COSTS— MID-WESTERN d is t r ic t . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 192a, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 9 .— M e n ' s McKay, brown side leather baL, oak leather sole with slip sole, leather heel base with rubber, top lift.—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs oflOO pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT. *79.000 41.000 41.000 19.000 69.000 29.000 10.000 54.000 37.000 26.000 117.000 42.000 38.000 44.000 65.000 13.000 182.000 79.000 36.000 22.000 70.000 10.375 $0,503 .294 .276 .221 .460 .215 .074 .515 .343 .233 .858 .257 .184 .343 .215 .073 2.207 .621 .276 .220 .460 .182 $0,382 .430 .404 .698 .400 .445 .444 .572 .556 .538 .440 .367 .291 .468 .198 .337 .728 .396 .460 .600 .394 1.053 ________ 1,123.375 8.930 ,477 . __ _ ____ _____ 10.000 36.000 25.000 10.000 10.000 15.000 .080 .467 .206 .098 .089 .086 .480 .778 .494 .588 .534 .344 106.000 1.026 .581 . ______ 50.000 10.000 10.000 15.000 .494 .098 .089 .086 .589 .588 .534 .344 T o ta l.._____________________________________ 85.000 .764 .539 5.000 52.000 21.000 21.000 10.000 .046 .462 .185 .147 .076 .185 .552 .541 .529 .420 .456 .555 Stav sides_____ ______________ __ _____ _____ Close linings................. -r„r . , . ,. _________ Cord- . _ ,r. , _ r. _ . . ____ Back tips____ __________ _____________________ __ ■Rack tongues_____________________________'________ Close nppers_______ ________________ ___________ ■R.nh <?Aarns________________________________________ Raolrstav . _ _______________________________ ____ Tnfteam .1__________________________________ ________ Bead_________________ - ___________________________ Stitch tops _ Eyelet " _____ ____________ j ______________________ Tnk . , _______ Stitch, tips___ _ ___ _ ______ Close vamps _ ______________________________________ Rub vamp* seams ... Vamp " ______ ____________ ___________ Seam toes ........ ....... _ _ . .... Tank ........ Lace (“ Ensign” ) __ __ ___ __ . _ ... .... ^ Utility work” —- ___________________________I_______ Organization_________________________ ______________ Total 75.95 146.34 146.34 315.79 86.96 206.90 600.00 111. 11 162.16 230.77 51.28 142.86 157.89 136136 92.31 461,54 32.97 75.95 166.67 272.73 85.71 578.31 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Get up sole leather Out Grade _ Sort . . Put stock in bins Assemble. _ ___ ___ _ _ ____ _ _ .. ... _ ..... _ . _ _ ____ . _ Total-------------------------- ----------------- ---------------Insoles: Cut _ _ __ . Sort_______ _ ____ __ Put stock in hins_ . _____ _ Assemble _ Slip soles: Sort scraps.______________________ ___ __________ Gut.................................................... ............... Grade....... ............... ...... .................................. Stick....... ......................... .............. ...... .................. Roll____ ______ Scarf and put in bins______________________ Total___ _____________ ______________________ Counters, leather i__ Box toes: Sort scraps...T _ _ _ ______ __ Cut_____________________________________ r Skive........................... . ................................... Total ___ TT eefeirl . _ ___ . ___ _____ ___ ____ Stock fitting: Utility---------------------------- ——................................. Skive shank rands _ ___ _ __ Stick s lip s o le s ..... _ ____ _ Scarf shank rands....................................................... 2 a ooo 129.000 1.108 .515 158.915 1.314 .496 5.000 5.000 5.000 .046 .068 .052 .552 .816 .624 15.000 .166 .664 230 247 2.147 .559 40.000 6.000 21.000 20.000 .334 .032 «rl4? .134 1 .501 .320 .420 .402 600.00 160 67 m oo 600.00 600.00 400.00 120:06 600.00 600.00 400.00 1,200.00 115.38 285.71 285.71 600.00 300; 00 1,200.00 1,200.0Q 1,200.00 150.00 1,000.00 285.71 300.00 * These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 95 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . Id . TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923. BY DISTRICT., DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N m S ’B R IG T -O o n tin u e d . E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . IP.—Men’s McKay, brown side leather bal., oak leather sole with slipsole, leatherheel base with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded. Stock fitting—Concluded. Channel............................................... - ..................... Cement outsoles......................................................... Tack shank rands..... ................................................. Mold soles.................................................................. Tem per....................................... ............................. Cement slip soles........... ........................................... Round taps................................................................. Gauge toes.................................................................. Open channels............................................................ Fudge.......................................................................... Black soles.................................................................. Assemble slip soles.......... ............ .......... ............... Operate elevators.................................................. —. Organization............................................................... T nfad _ . __________ Total, snWlAflthar rlapartment ___ 16.000 18.000 28.000 16.000 5.000 21.000 10.000 13.000 12.000 19.000 13.000 9.000 10.000 20.750 $0,276 .074 .307 .153 .038 .079 .135 .091 .184 .221 .079 .091 .060 .364 $1,035 .247 .658 .574 .456 .226 .810 .420 .920 .698 .365 .607 .360 1.053 297.750 2.799 .564 1,021.912 9.324 .547 100.000 100.000 200.000 77.000 23.000 67.000 100.000 10.000 10.000 10.000 10.375 .773 1.128 2.256 .773 .153 .650 .552 .050 .214 .069 .182 .464 .677 .677 .602 .399 .582 .331 .300 1.284 .414 1.053 707.375 6.800 .577 63.000 19.000 10.000 75.000 20.000 10.000 55.000 25.000 37.000 37.000 37.000 20.000 34.000 148.000 10.375 .919 .233 .117 .429 .178 .069 .613 .226 .460 .245 .441 .214 .258 1.625 .182 .875 .736 .702.534 .414 .669 .542 .746 .397 .715 .642 .455 .659 1.053 600.375 6.209 .621 50.000 112.000 34.000 48.000 43.000 47.000 49.00042.000 28.000 19.000 50.000 12.000 10.000 10.375 .491 1.349 .331 .502 .380 .454 .490 .417 .306 .147 .396 .080 .061 .182 .589 .723 .584 .628 .530 .580 .600 .596 .656 .464 .475 .400 .366 1.053 554.375 5.586 .605 375.00 333.33 214; 29’ 375.00 1,200.00 285.71 600.00 461,5* 500.00 315.79461.54 666.67 600.00 289.16 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Assemble for pull-over machine....................................... Pull over, machine........................................................... C. H . M . lasting machine................................................ Pound toes........................................................................ Put in shanks.................................................................... Tack on soles..................................................................... Pull last welt and cut stock............................................. Inspect............................................................................... Utility work...................................................................... Wet up and miscellaneous............................................... Organization...................................................................... Total .......... __ _ _ BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. McKay sew....................................................................... Nail heel seats................................................................... Sort styles and sizes................................ ......................... Sock linings........................................ .............................. Cement............................................... ............................... Temper soles and utility work.......................................... Level......................................................... ........................ Fudge................................................... ............................. Heel.................................................................................... Feed rubber heels................................ ............................ Trim heels......................................................................... Utility work......... ............................................................ Breast heels......... .... ........................... ............................ Trim edges............. ........................................................... Organization........................................ ............................. Total___________________________________________ 60.00 60.00 30.00 77.92 260.87 89.55 60.00 600.00 600.00 600.00 578.31 .343 ’ 95.24 315.79 600.00 80.00 300.00 600.00 109.09 240.00 162.16 162.16 162.16 300.00 176.47 40.54 578.31 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels..... .................................................................. Set edges........................................................................ . Slick heels........... ............... ........... ................. ................ Sand bottoms....... ........................ .................................. Naumkeag......................................................................... Paint......................................................... .............. ......... Finish heels...... ................................................................ Finish bottoms.................................................................. Clean shoes........................................................................ Stamp................................................................................ Utility work......................... ................ .......... ............... Sort and pair........................ ............................................ Operate elevators.................................................. ........... Organization...................................................................... Total __ ___ ______________ 120.00 53.57 176 47 125.00 139.53 127.66 122.45 142.86 214.29316 79120.-00 50600 600.00 578.31 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTR ICT, 96 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATIO N — Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 1 9 .— Men's McKay, brown side leather bal., oak leather sole with slip sole, leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Past.p. hp.p.l parts ___ _ Dist.rihnt.p n Tree , machine _ ___ Onhhlft (after treeing) _ _ _ _ _____ Polish................................. ................ ............ .................. Brush bottoms. Makeoartons_ _ Make lids _... _.... ... • Clean, dry rag. .. . .. . T.aee . _ _ . __ .. _ Stamp eartnm _ .......... Paek in eartons .. . . _ __ Cover oartons ...... Odd {shoe and floor work . U tility work Paek nasfis Seale eases and load M ake eases Organisation Total _ . . . _ __ . . .................................. _______ _________________________ Grand to ta l_________________________________ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 53.000 10.000 112.660 30.000 55.000 34.000 21.000 19.000 34.000 50.000 10.000 40.000 20.000 10.000 20.000 18.000 18.000 18.000 10.375 $0,355 .053 1.472 .132 .276 .245 .147 .125 .245 .196 .083 .294 .080 .073 .092 .105 .105 .074 .182 $0,402 .318 .789 .264 .301 .432 .420 .395 .432 .235 .498 .441 .240 .438 .276 .350 .350 .247 1.053 582.375 4.334 .447 5,911.341 51.416 .522 113.21 600.00 53.57 200.00 109.09 176.47 285.71 315.79 176.47 . 120.00 600.00 150.00 300.00 600.00 300.00 333.33 333.33 333.33 578.31 £5—Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford with tip, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Check in leather......................................... ............................ Sort leather.............................................................................. Count footage.......................................................................... Deliver stock to catting room.............................................. Give out work....................................... - ................................ Cut shoes, hand...................................................................... Sort upper parts...................................................................... Stamp sizes............................................................................... Trace.............................................................................. ......... Skive top and front of quarters............................................ Skive vamps............................................................................ Skive tips................................................................................. Skive toes................................................................................. Skive bottom of quarters....................................................... Perforate quarters................................................................... Perforate-vamps.................................................................... Perforate tips........................................................................... Give out work to lining cutters........................................... Cut linings, hand.................................................................... Stamp linings.......................................................................... Give out work to trimming cutters..................................... Cut trimmings, machine..................................................... Sort trimmings....................................................................... Assemble trimmings............................................................. Assemble........................................................................... ....... Cobble....................................................................................... Back shoe work....................................................................... Organization........ ................................................................... Total.. . . .. ____ . . . . . 2.778 34. 722 1.389 2.778 2.778 416.667 83.333 41.667 41.667 33.333 18.056 13.889 11. I ll 19.444 33.333 38.889 22.222 8.333 66.667 22.222 27.778 133.333 8.333 2.778 5.556 29.922 14.961 118.688 $0,050 .434 .008 .022 .042 5.667 .521 .250 .208 .278 .181 .069 .069 .139 .278 .354 .167 .126 .417 .250 .289 1.028 .048 .016 .068 .374 .686 1.985 $1,080 .750 .346 .475 .907 .816 .375 .360 .300 .500 .601 .298 .373 .429 .500 .546 .451 .907 .375 .675 .624 .463 .346 .346 .734 . 750 .345 1.003 1,256.627 13.424 .641 8.333 19.444 11. I ll 69.444 69.444 33.333 19.444 41.667 25.000 .041 .264 .083 .833 .410 .403 .222 .403 .153 .295 .815 .448 .720 .354 .725 .685 .580 .367 2,159.83 172.80 4,319.65 2,159.83 2,159.83 14.40 72.00 144.00 144.00 180.00 332.30 432.00 540.01 308.58 18fr 00 154.29 270.00 720.03 90.00 270.00 216.00 45.00 720.03 2,159.83 1,079.91 200.52 401.04 50.55 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Checking in.............................................................................. Close back seams..................................................................... Rub linings............................................................................... Stitch heel stays...................................................................... Stitch toe linings............................... ..................................... Tape linings............................................................................. Tape quarters........... ...................... ................................... Reenforce quarters................................................................ Stitch vamp linings................................................................ 720.03 308.58 54a 01 86.40 86.40 180.00 308.58 144.00 24a 00 97 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 23, T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPA RTM E N T, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford with tip, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . US.— Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT— concluded. Close quarters.......................................................................... Paste pieces.............................................................................. Stay........................................................................................... Cement quarters..................................................................... Cement tips............................................................................. Fold front of quarters............................................................ Fold top of quarters............................................................... Fold vamps.............................................................................. Fold tips.................................................................................. Stitch lace stays...................................................................... Stitch tips................................................................................ Bind tongues............................................................................ Lay in....................................................................................... Crease vamps.......................................................................... Stitch tops................................................................................ Eyelet....................................................................................... Nick and ink........................................................................... Vamp........................................................................................ Paste toes................................................................................. Seam toes and stitch in tongues.......................................... Clean........................................................................................ Trim.......................................................................................... Bar............................................................................................. Lace, 1 spindle........................................................................ Lace, 3 spindle........................................................................ Inspect...................................................................................... Pack.......................................................................................... Back shoe work...................................................................... Supplies.................................................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total . . ____ 16.667 27.778 19.444 25.000 8.333 30.556 36. I ll 61. Ill 27. 778 50.000 52.778 27.778 8.333 13.889 91.667 27.778 19.444 119.444 11. Ill 38.889 13.889 72.222 19.444 8.333 13.889 100.000 8.333 74.805 14.961 104.727 $0.181 .181 .229 .153 .069 .278 .333 .563 .111 .514 .319 .222 .111 .083 1.014 .333 .201 2.215 .111 .403 .139 .417 .174 .139 .111 .417 .104 .418 .078 1.112 $0.652 .391 .707 .367 .497 .546 .553 .553 .240 .617 .363 .480 .799 .359 .664 .719. .620 1.113 .599 .622 .600 .346 .537 1.001 .480 .250 .749 .335 .313 .637 1,441. 712 13.545 .564 12.500 4.500 4.750 3.000 2.000 .158 .032 .065 .026 .026 .758 .427 .821 .520 .780 26.750 .307 .689 18.000 4.000 6.500 11.500 1.500 .203 .022 .081 .096 .015 .677. .330 .748 .501 .600 359.99 216.00 308.58 240.00 720.03 196.36 166.15 98.18 216.00 120.00 113.68 216.00 720.03 432.00 65.45 216.00 308.58 50.23 540.01 154.29 432.00 83.08 308.58 720.00 432.00 60.00 720.03 80.21 401.04 57.29 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade................................................................................. Sort.................................................................................... Rack................................................................................... Case................................................................................... Total________ _ Insoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade................................................................................. Sort..................................................................................... Rack.................................................... ............................. Case................................................................................... Total___________________________ .... 41. 500 .417 .603 Counters: Cut..................................................................................... Sort flats............................................................................ Grade................................................................................. Skive.................................................................................. Shave ends................ - .................................................... Wet rollers........................................................................ Wax rollers........................................................................ Mold.................................................................................. Inspect............................................................................... Case................................................................................... Tie up................................................................................ 19.000 4.000 4.000 2.700 1.500 .750 1.000 7.000 3.500 1.500 1.333 .204 .047 .022 .018 .010 .005 .009 .070 .021 .007 .012 .644 .705 .330 .400 .400 .400 .540 .600 .360 .280 .540 Total.............................................................................. 146.283 .434 .563 113.788 1.033 .545 .Box toes, leather i _ _____ ____ 480.00 1,333.33 1,263.16 2,000.00 3,000.00 333.33 1,500.00 923.08 521. 74 4,000.00 315. 79 1,500.00 1,500.00 2,222. 22 4,000.00 8,000.00 6,000.00 857.14 1,714.29 4,000.00 4,501.12 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. Seepp. 132-140. §8 T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D IST R IC T . T IM E -A N D LABO R COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES' IN 1923; B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION-Continuedi M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued: E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford with, tip;-8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued; Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). oflOO pairs: Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— C o n c lu d e d . Heels: Cut grain lifts......................................................—......... Sort grain lifts.................. _.......... ....... ........................ Serve lifts........................................... ...... ....................... Serve paste...................................... ............ . ................... Build, “ Grover” ........ .................. ......... ...................... Press, jack................. ...................................................... Inspect, wet................................................. . ................. Form rands...................................................................... Butt.................................................................................. Dry................................................................. ................... Compress_____________ _________ _______ _________ Inspect, dry________ ____________ _____ . __________ Case................................. ................. ............................... Tack rands....................................... ........... .................. 55.000 6.000 1.500 .500 20.000 2.000 6.250 7.250 1.500 .500 2.750 5.000 1.667 7.000 $0,444 .029 .011 .002 .216 .014 .029 .062 .014 .005 .026 .027 .017 .062 $0,485 .290 .440 .240 .648' .420 .278 .513 .560 .600 .567 .324 .612. .531 116.917 .958 .492 5.556 1.389 13.889 5.556 4.167 33.333 5.556 11.200 33.333 5.556 33.333 16.667 8.333* 11. I ll 13.889 8.333 A 167 1.750 .035 .007 .194 .035 .026 .450 .025 .097 .278 .025 .220 .049 .081 .063 .038 .019 .027 .378 .302 .838 .378 .374.810 .270 .520 .500 .270 .400 .792 .353 . .437 .272 .274. .274 .926 1,079.91 4,319.65 432.00 1,079.9! 1,439.88 180.08 1,079.9! 535:71 180.00 1,079.91 180.00 359.99 720.03 540.01 432.00 720.03 1,439.88 3,428.57 5.556 5.556 6.944 13.889 13.889 13.889 5.556 2.778 11. I ll 14.961 14.961 .035 .031 .058 .116 .178 .150 .025 .013 .050 .104 .221 .378 .335 .501 .501 .769 .648 .270 .281 .270 .417 .886 1,079.91 1,079.91 864.06 432.00 432.00 43a 00 1,079.91 2,159.83 540.01 401.04 401.04 ........ .......................................... 326.208 2.872 .528 Total, soledeather department____. . . . _____ _____ 671.446 6.021 .538 — ------- ----- 89.766 11. I ll 2.778 166.667 111. Ill 113.889 244.444 6.944 29.922 .452 .054 .014 2.389 1.694 1.639 3.194 .066 .390 .302 .292 .302: .860 .915 .863 .784 .570 .782 776.632 9.892 .764: T o t a l ...------------------------------------------------------------Siockfittingj Insoles— Track ............... ..................... ............................. Give out work.........„.............................................. Round_____________ ________ _________________ Lip, cut and score.................. ....... ......................... Nip toes...................................................................... Channel..................................... ................................ Cut outside channels.._________ ______________ Cement channels..................................................... Set channels--------------------------- ------------- ----------Dip heel seats_______________ _________________ Put on- canvas and crease.... .w. . _ . . . _ _____ Gum............................................................_.............. Crown........ .......... ......... ........................ ................ Case up in boxes....................................................... Turn back channels................................................. Form toes.................................... .............................. Place In tempering room_________ ____________ Case rubber top lifts......................... ...................... OutsoleS— Track.....................—................................................ Stamp sizes________ ______ ___ _____ ____ _____ Even, machine— ___________ „_______________ Round—___ — .. ..__________ ____ —..... .............. Reduce shanks......................... ............................... Feather edging..— -................ ................................ Case up............... — ..................... .......................... Load on track__ — ............................................ Deliver to bottoming room..—.............................. Back shoe work........................ ................................ Organization__ __________ ________ . . . . . . _____ T o t a l ...— — .2 2 2 109; 14 1,000.08 4,000.08 12,000:00 3 0 0 :0 0 3,000.00 9oo:oo 827:50 A 0 0 0 :0 0 i2;ooaoo 2,181.82 1,200.08 3,599.28* 857.165 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Assemble lasts, counters, soles, and uppers.___________ Case lasts.............................................................. .................. Get out counters and insoles........................................... . Assemble for pull-over machine.......... ............................. Pull over, machine_____ _______ _____ _ _ _ Side last, machine................—.................................... ........ Operate bed machine...........—_________________________ Checkout________________ — __________ Organization_________ Total________________ ___________ _ _ 66.84 540.01 2; 159.83 36.00 54.00 52.68 . 24.55 864.06 200.52 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 23 . 99 T IM E A N D LABO R COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y DISTR ICT,. D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 03.—Women's Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp* whole, quarter, lace oxford with tip, 8/0 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Pull back tacks....... ..........- ........................... ...................... Trim toes___ - ..............................................—................... Staple....................................................................................... Raise tacks.............................................................................. Goodyear welt....................................................................... Wet shoes for welter.........- .................................................... Inseam...................................................................................... Trim inseams...................... ................................................... Beat welts....................................................... ......................... Butt off..................................................................................... Knock out insole tacks.......................................................... Tack in shanks........................................... - .......................... Fill bottoms . .............................................. ........................... Cement bottoms............... —................... - ............................ Sort shoes.................................................. . ...... . ................... Wet soles, first time............. - ................................................ Roll soles................................ ................ ......... - ................... Mold soles.-..............................................- ........ ,................... Cement soles............................................................................ Wet soles, second time.......................................................... Lay soles................................................................................... Rough round........................................................................... Turn up channels and skive shanks................................... Goodyear stitch................- ................................................... Roll shanks.................... ............................... ......................... Cement channels............. .......... ........................................... Lay channels....... ............ ..................................................... Fudge, first tim e ....................... ............... - ........................ Level....................................................... - ................................ Nail seats.................................................- ........ ............. — Trim seats................................................................................ Get out heels........................................................................... Heel, No. 1 base............................. ................. ........... . Heel, No. 2 rubber........ ......................................................... Trim heels................................................................................ Breast heels.............................................................................. Trim edges.................................. ........................................... Joint.......................................................................................... Cobble............. .................. ..............................._........ .......... Back shoe work...................... .................................... ......... Organization............................................................................................. T o t a l_______________________________ __________________ 9.722 13.889 30.556 25.000 5.556 13,889 66.667 38.889 27.778 36. I l l 23.611 16.667 20.833 11. Ill 11. I ll 8.333 2.778 8.333 41.667 1.389 31.944 47.222 34.722 111. Ill 19.444 13.889 47.222 27.778 47.222 11. I ll 16.667 13.889 2.778 41.667 50.000 27.778 19.444 130.556 36. Ill 14.961 29.922 29.922 $0,041 .208 .250 .333 .025 .063 1.667 .405 .278 .389 .208 .194 .250 .111 .090 .048 .016 .049 .139 .007 .472 1.000 .340 2.083 .222 .139 .167 .174 .417 .046 .208 .083 .012 .667 .694 .694 .306 2.479 .514 .156 .146 .520 $0.253 .899 .491 .799 .270 .272 1.500 .625 .600 .646 .529 .698 .720 .599 .486 .346 .346 .353 .200 .302 .887 1.271 .588 1.125 .685 .600 .212 .376 .530 .248 .749 .359 .259 .960 .833 1.499 .944 1.139 .854 .626 .293 1.043 1,219.250 16.310 .803 18.058 44.444 5.556 155.556 16.667 8.333 11. I ll 15.278 77.778 9.722 20.833 25.000 44.444 .222 .556 .029 2:479 .194 .035 .174 .069 .778 .069 .278 .306 .278 .389 .424 .201 .159 .188 .215 .093 .088 .251 .6 6 0 '738 .751 .312 .956 .698 .252 .940 .271 .600 .425 .801 .734 .375 .700 .458 .543 .343 .677 .619 .251 .292 .417 .882 8.135 .650 617.16 432.00 196.36 240.00 1,079:91 432.00 90.00 154.29 216.00 166.15 254.12 359.99 288.00 540.01 54d 01 720.03 2; 159.83 720; 03 143.99 4,319; 65 187.83 127.06 172.80 54; 00 308.58 432.00 127.06 216.00 127.06 540.01 369.99 432.00 2,159.83 144.00 120.00 216.00 308.58 45.96 166.15 401.04 200.52 200.52 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breast.................................................. ...... .......... .......... Scour heels, first time............................................................. Dope heels.................................. .............. ................................ Set edges............................. ..................................................... Fudge, second time................................................................ Change racks........................................................................................... Scour heels, second time............................. ....................................... Ink heels..................................................................................................... Sand bottoms........................................................................................... Brush dust off bottoms..................................................................... Mark shanks............................................................................................ Stain forepart........................................................................................... Ink shanks and breast of heels.............. ....................................... Burnish shanks and breasts............................................................ Burnish heels.......................................................................... Wax forepart............................................................................ Brush stitches.......................................................................... Polish, final...................................................................- ........ Pull lasts.................................................................................. Stamp bottoms................... ...... ....................................................... Clean;rubber top piece..i . . .................................... ........................ Wheel shanks..................................................... .................................... Organization..................................................... ....................................... T otal___________________ _________________ 33.333 55.556 22.222 27.778 16.667 20.833 22.222 18.056 36.111 44.888 750:439 332,30 135,00 1,079.91 38.57 359.99 720.03 540.01 392.72 77.14 617.16 288.00 240.00 135.00 180:00 108.00 270.00 216.00 359.99 288.00 270.00 332.30 166.16 133.68 ................... . 100 A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT. t im e T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. Women’s Goodyear welt, black kid, circular vamp, whole quarter, lace oxford with tip, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . $ $ .— Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Bring racks to room Pot. tanks flnft phnps _ _ _ _ _ Sock linings________________________________ _______ Tree, machine .. , ,.. ir ... _ posh racks ... - ■Repair Dress „ .. __ Brush .,. „ r n ___ _ _ _ T,ace , .... . _ _ inspect Tnm i ___ - __ _ j ,ahA] boxes ... . _ Pack _ r__ ___ Stencil cases___________ ____________________________ Check nnt. __ _ Ba^k shne work _ ___ _ _ Utility................................................................................ Seal cases _ _.......... . ......._ . T^»ad nn truck ........... _____ . _. T^oad on wagon , Utility work ___. _ ir__ _ Ship __ __ __ Organization Total ______ Grand total „ _____ __. . 2.778 23.611 8.333 13.889 97.222 2.778 26.389 97.222 13.889 25.000 41.667 25.000 19.444 23.611 5.556 2.778 44.883 14.961 5.556 1.389 1.389 14.961 14.961 44.883 $0,012 .026 .007 .007 .088 .062 .610 $0,259 .282 .648 .600 .583 .281 .282 .249 .251 .499 .312 .256 .250 .493 .356 .259 .291 .481 .281 .302 .302 .353 .249 .815 572.150 3.882 .407 6,688.256 71.209 .639 .111 .090 .139 .944 .013 .124 .404 .058 .208 .217 .104 .081 .194 .033 .012 .218 .120 2,159.83 254.12 720.03 432.00 61.72 2,159.83 227.37 61.71 432.00 240.00 144.00 240.00 308.58 254.12 1,079.91 2,159.83 133.68 401.04 1,079.91 4.319.65 4.319.65 401.04 401.04 133.68 E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . % . —Women’s McKay, black kid,lace oxford, circular vamp,whole quarter, imitation per forated tip, perforated vamp and lace row, blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Rtnek-rnnm wnrk _ _ _ _ Relenting dies for cutters __ __ Cut vamps and whole shoes, machine __ _ _ Skive circular vamps_______________________________ Skive quarters ______ Rort. vamps and quarters ____ _ Rort. tongues _ r ___ Assemble leather parts _ , _ _____ Cut vamp doublings. __ r__. Cut eyelet reenforcements _ _ _ Cut doubling for quarters____________ ______________ Cut sheep quarter linings, machine_ _ _ _ ___ Cut tongue linings _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ' ^ Cut vamp linings.............................................................. Cut haekstav reenforcement _ _ _ Case linings and doublings............................................... Rtamp linings. . _ __ Cut sock linings _ ................. _ ___ Cut bottom filler______ r, _ r_ „ r r Perforate imitation tip __ _ _ . _ _ ___ _ _ Perforate vamps ______ _ _____ Back shoe work _ Organization _ _ _ Total _ ____ 17.747 17.747 263.889 16.667 22.222 47.222 13.889 15.833 2.778 5.556 5.556 83.333 2.778 5.556 15.833 19.444 22.222 5.556 5.556 27.778 41. 667 17.747 35.494 $0,126 .052 1.794 .153 .167 .417 .047 .081 .017 .033 .033 .458 .017 .033 .056 .083 .111 .033 .033 .146 .222 .094 .465 $0,426 . 176 .408 .551 .451 .530 .203 .307 .367 .356 .356 .330 .367 .356 .212 .256 .300 .356 .356 .315 .320 .318 .786 712.070 4.671 .394 16.667 55.556 55.556 44.444 47.222 33.333 50.000 22.222 .097 .389 .222 .167 .139 .125 .194 .208 .349 .420 .240 .225 .177 .225 .233 .562 338.09 338.09 22.74 359.99 270.00 127.06 432.00 378.96 2,159.83 1.079.91 1.079.91 72.00 2,159.83 1,079.91 378.96 308.58 270.00 1.079.91 1.079.91 216.00 144.00 338.09 169.04 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Close quarter linings _____ _ _ _ . Stitch toe lining to quarter linings __ __ Doubling quarters....................................... .................... Paste on eyelet reenforcement _ _ _ _ _ __ _ Trace for lace row . . . ____ _ _ _ Close quarters. _ _ _____ _ _ ____ Stay quarters _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ,_ ________ ____ _ Perforate lace row.............................................................. 359.99 108.00 108.00 135.00 127.06 180.00 120.00 270.00 101 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 24. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923. B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. 24—Women’s McKay, black kid, lace oxford, circular vamp, whole quarter, imitation perforated tip, perforated vamp and lace row, blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 heel with rubber top lift—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Stitch lace row (plus)_______ ______________________ r._ _ ___ _ Cement quarters fnr fnld ........ Fold quarters....... ............................................................ Lay in linings ........ Stitch tops.!____________________ _________ ________ Eyelet.."............................................................................ Double vamps________________________________ ____ Cement vamps for fold____ _____ ___________________ Fold circular‘vamps_________ _____ ______ __________ Stitch imitation tips____________ ______________ ____ Match and trim for vampers________________________ Vamp.............................. t ................................................. Bind"tongues_______________________ _________ ____ Seam toes........................................................................... Bar..................................................................................... Lace................................................................................... Inspect............................................................................... Trim................................................................................... Pack................................................................................... Cripple work..................................................................... Floor work (girl)............................................................... Sweep................................................................................. Machinist’s work____ ______ _______________________ Organization____________ _______________ __________ 66.667 16.667 166.667 22.222 166. 667 65.556 16.667 16.667 33.333 44.444 25.000 138.889 55.556 83.333 41.667 36. I ll 41.667 41.667 16.667 35.494 17.747 17.747 35.494 35.494 $0.250 .083 .556 .097 .667 .250 .125 .063 .194 .160 .083 1.444 .183 .368 .183 .139 .139 .139 .111 .149 .094 .110 .340 .521 $0,225 .299 .200 .262 .240 .270 .450 .227 .349 .216 .199 .624 .198 .265 .264 .231 .200 .200 .400 .252 .318 .372 .575 .881 Total........................................................................ 1,553.090 7. ?89 .309 Outsoles: Cut___ _____ __________________________________ Grade_________________________________________ Sort_________________ _____________ ______ _____ Rack...... ..................................................................... Case__________________________________________ 12.500 4. 500 4. 750 3.000 2.000 .158 .032 .065 .026 .026 .758 .427 .821 .520 .780 90.00 359.99 36.00 270.00 36.00 108.00 359.99 359.99 180.00 135.00 240.00 43.20 108.00 72.00 144.00 166.15 144.00 144.00 359.99 169.04 338.09 338.09 169.04 169.04 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total_____ _____________ ____ ________________ 26.750 .307 .689 Insoles: Cut.............................................................................. Grade__________________ ____ _____________ ____ Sort............................................................................. Rack.................................... ........... ............................ Case__________________________________________ 18.000 4.000 6.500 11.500 1.500 .203 .022 .081 .096 .015 .677 .330 .748 .501 .600 Total............................. .......................................... 41.500 .417 .603 Counters: C u t............................................................................ Sort flats___ : ............................................................. Grade__________ __________________________ _____ Skive Shave ends_______________ ____ _______ _________ Wet roll....................................................................... Wax roll__ _ ... _ _ M old........................................................................... Inspect___________________ ____ _____ ______ ____ Case. ___ __ _______ . . . . ............ Tie up ____ ___ . . . . _ 19.000 4.000 4.000 2.700 1.500 .750 1.000 7.000 3.500 1.500 1.333 .204 .047 .022 .018 .010 .005 .009 .070 .021 .007 .012 .644 .705 .330 .400 .400 .400 .540 .600 .360 .280 .540 Total_______ Box toes, leather 1 ____ ’ ._ __ ..... Heels: Cut flexible lifts.......................................................... Cut grain lifts............................................................. Cut wedges. _ . . . .. ___ Sort flexibles............................................................... Sort grain lifts:........................................................... 46.283 .425 .551 113.788 1.033 .545 61.000 4.900 21.360 8.000 .500 .592 .041 .178 .046 .002 .582 .506 .500 .345 .240 480.00 1,333.33 1,263.16 2,000.00 3,000.00 333.33 1,500.00 923.08 521.74 4,000.00 315. 79 1.500.00 1.500.00 2,222.22 4.000. 8.000. 6,000.00 857.14 1,714.29 4,000.00 4,501.12 98.36 1,225.00 281.00 750.00 12,000.00 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 00 00 102 t im e A N D LABOR COSTS— M m -W E & E E R N D ISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF IflO FAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N M S T K I C T - C o B t in u e d . McKay, black krd, lace oxford, circular v a m ^ whole quarter, imitation perforated tip* perforated vamp and lace row", blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 Heel with rubber top lift—Continued. J fir ts M te h m c n t N o . t 4 . ~ ~ W < m e & fs Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and- operation; Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. • SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Keefe—Continued. Serve lifts.............. ............ ................... - ............. — Serve paste....................................................................... Build “ G r o v e r ........................... ....................... Press jack-..-........................................................... Inspect, wet......................................................... Compress, first time_______ ________ _______ Dry house......................... .................. ................ — Compress, second time................... ....................— — Inspect, dry.......................................................... —— Casers................................. ............................................ . 1.600 .500 19.600 $0011 .002 6.250 2.750 .500 2.500 5.250 1.700 .196 .014 .029 .027 .005 .026 .027 .017 $0,440 .240 .600 .420 .278 .589 .600 .624 .309 .600 _________ 156.310 1.213 .466 Stock fitting: Temper soles............... ......................... ................ — Roll soles.......................... ............................. ....... Round outsoles.......................................- ............ Round insoles........................................ ................ — Channel outsoles................................................... Mold insoles............... ............................................ ......... Mold outsoles........................................................ Open channels......................................................... ....... Feather edge forepart.——............... - ................- ___ Feather edge shanks..................................................... Ink outsoles..................................... ......... .......... ...... Sweep....................................................................- .........Case rubber top lifts................................................. ..... Organization..................................................................... 19.444 13.889 25.000 19.444 12.500 4.167 5.556 13.889 11. Ill 15.278 13.889 17.747 5.400 17.747 .097 .083 .150 .083 .042 .058 .083 .056 .299 .359 .360 .370 .398 .605 .626 .359 .302 .436 .298 .284 .300 195.061 1.260 .388 579.692 4.655 .482 22.222 22.222 .186 .281 .315 .384. .572 .709 .620 .356 .374 .300 .179 .563 -.331 .466 17.747 17.747 35*494 .069 .104 .146 .444 .583 .722 1.722 .132 .104 .153 .083 .417 .069 .194 .056 .069 .131 .078 .423 719.599 a 699 .475 A 333 3a 889 16.667 12.500 8.333 11. Ill 31.944 a 333 laose .083 .472 .598 .728 .400 .600 .598 .-448 .652 .302 .831 •462 .59* Tntnl . . . Total. _ _ . Tntal, snJo-lpnthp.r ^Apartment ____- - _ ___ _ _ 20.000 .120 .111 .D69 .084 .027 .197 .666 4,000:00 12,00006 306.12 $00.00 960.00 % 181.82 12,00000 2,400,06 1,142.86 3^529 00 30&58 432.60 240i 00 308.58 480:00 1,439; 88 1,079 9* 432.00 540.01 392.72 432.00 338.09 1 ,1 11.1 1 33a 09 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Match-up work and chalk lasts.......................................... Case lasts............................................................................ Tack insoles................... ...................... ........... ............ ..... Assemble for puller-over machine.......................... Pull over, machine................ ..............- .............................. Side last_____ ________ ____________ __________________ Operate bed machine....... ............................................ Grind toes.................................................................. .............. Pull insole tacks................... —........................................... . Tack in shanks......................................................... ........... . Tack in bottom filler.............................................................. Tack soles.................................................................... ...... ... ................. ............... ........... Pull out back tacks____ — Pull lasts._____ _____ . . . . . . . . . ____________ . . . Fill bottoms _ —rBack shoe work................................ .......................... ......... Cobble........................................................ .................. . Cripple______ ___________ ,___________ ___________ ,__ 1Lt Organization......................................... ......................—__ _ ___________________ _____________ T o ta l 27.778 69.444 61. I ll 61. I ll 166.667 22.222 16.667 30.556 27.778 44.444 12.500 25.000 16.667 22.222 .202 .186: .443 .264 .715 270.00 270.00 216.00 8*40 96.18 9a 18 36.00 270.00 359.99 196.36 21*00 185.00 480.00 m oo 359.99 270.00 338.09 338.09 169.04 .,-r . . . ... BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Wet for M cKay sewer............................ .............................. McKay sew............................................ ............................... Nailseats........................................................... ......... .......... Cement channels.................................. ................................. Sort for leveler.................. .................................................... Wet for leveler...................................... ................................. Level............... —........................................... - ..... ............ ..... Lay out heels................... ........................... .................... ..... Heel bases.......... ...............— ............ .— ...____________ Feed bases...................... ......................... .......... . . _____ Cement base and rubber....................................................... Put on rubber heels................................................. ia056 am 18.056 .111 .125 *083 .083 .347 .042 .250 .139 .083 •194 . m 720.03 154; 29 359.99 480.00 720.03 540.01 187.83 720.03 332.30 332.30 720.03 332 30 ESTABLISHMENT NO. 24. 103 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923> B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M m - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. Women's McKay, black kid, lace oxford, circular vamp, whole quarter, imitation perforated tip, perforated vamp and lace row, blind eyelets, single sole, 13/8 heel with rubber top lift—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—concluded. 18.086' 22.222 26.389 26.389 16.667 6.944 25.000 69:444 17:747 17.747 35.494 $0,139 .118 .278 .194 .111 .083 .222 .694 .057 .105 .451 $0,462 .319 .632 .441 .400 .717 .533 .609 .193 .355 .762 _______________________ ________.____ 480.710 4.464 .557 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Set edges......................................................................—Brush edges after setting................................................. Put away second lasts__- ................. - ............................. Scour breasts..................................................................... Scour heels......................................................................... Size heels........................................................................... Scour heels third time.................................................... Sand bottoms-................................................................ — Dust bottoms:.......................................................... — Cut shanks.....................- ............................................. — Bleach forepart......................................... ............... Stain forepart.......................................................... - ___ Ink shanks...................... ............................................. Ink heels......................... - ................................................. Burnish shanks, tops and breasts............................ ....... Polish forepart............................................................. ... Burnish h e e ls......................................................... Wheel bottoms-..... ................................................ — . Fill in heels........................................................................ Wheel seat......................... —............................................ Pull second lasts............................................................... Stamp bottoms........................ ....................... ............... Roll w ax............................................................................ Clean rubber heels.............................- .......................... . Buff shanks........................................... - .......................... •Sweep........................................................... - ................... Organization...................................................................... 116.667 16.667 11. Ill 11.806 27.778 8.333 16.667 41.667 5.556 6.944 12.500 37.500 27.778 16.667 25.000 22.222 30.556 22.222 16.667 11. I ll 12.500 11. I ll 9.722 16.(67 13.889 17.747 35.494 .917 .m .069 .083 .264 .069 .125 .486 .056 .063 .069 .444 .167 .097 .278 .167 .194 .118 .078 .4)97 .097 .090 .069 .111 .056 .084 .395 .475 .475 .373 .422 .570 .497 .450 .700 .605 .544 .331 .710 .361 .349 .667 .451 .381 .319 .281 .524 .466 .486 .426 .400 .242 .284 .668 602.549 4.875 .485 IQ. 444 44.444 11. I ll 27.778 144.444 66.667 27:778 22.222 8.333 11. I ll 22.222 19.444 38.889 35.494 88.735 17.747 35.494 35.494 .063 .153 .090 .174 .833 .340 .139 .167 .056 .097 .167 .125 .133 .121 .336 .059 .222 .363 .194 .207 .486.376 .346 .306 .360 .451 .403 .524 .451 .386 .205 .205 .227 .199 .375 .614 676:851 3:638 .322 5,324.561. 35:991 .406 Feed rubber' heels.........—........................ -............. ......... Inspect................................................... ................. - ....... Trim h e e l s . .................................................................. Breast heels............................................. . .............. - ....... Fill heels............................. ................. - ......................... Case lasts........................... —..............—.......................... Last, second time............................................................. Trim edges....-...................................... •— ................... Back shoes and cover racks-with paper................ ......... Sweep........... - ................... .................................... - ........ Organization...................................................................... Total_. Total .. _ . . . . . . . . 332.30 27ft 00 227.37227.37 359.99 864.06 240.00 86.40 338.09 338.09 160.04 43.56 359:99 540.01 508.22 216.00 720.03 359.99 144:00 1,079: 91 864.06 480.00 160.00 216.00 359.99 240.00 270.00 196.36 270.00 359.99 540.01 480.00 540.01 617.16 359.99 432.00 338.09 169.04 TREEING and packing department. Push racks............................................. .............. ......... Brush stitches................... —............................................ Sort for trees...................................................................... Sock-linings............................................. ......................... Dress................................ ............................ - .............. Lace.............. ........................ .............. ........................... Brush................................................................................. Size for packers....................................................... ......... Label cartons..................................... ........ - ................... Pack..........i_ ........................................... ........................ Stencil cases...-..................................... - .......................... Cartons and racks................ ........................................... Back shoe work........................................... ..................... Inspect............................................................................... General work.......................................... ......................... Ship.......... .............................- ....................................... Organization....... .................................................. ......... Total__ _______ . _____________ ,__________ Grand total............ .................... ........*.................. 308.58 135.00 540.01 216.00 41.54 90.00 216.00 270.00 720.03 540.01 270.00 308.58 154.29 159.04 67.62 338.09 169.04169:04- 104 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N D ISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IS T R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 5 — M e n ’ s McKay, box side, wax top, straight foxed, capped laced blucher, half double sole, leather heel. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost, of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Put up jobs for cutters........................................................... Truck in stock room.......................... ................................... Selecting dies for cutters................. ...................................... Cut vamps, tips, and foxings, machine.............................. Cut tongues, machine.......................................... ............... Cut quarters, machine................................ ........................ Cut vamp linings and quarter linings.......... .................... Cut vamp doublers, machine.............................................. Cut eyelet stays, hand........................................................... Sort vamps, tips, foxings, tongues, and quarters............ Tie and case up linings.......................................................... . Tie and case up doublers....................................................... Skive vamps........................................ ................................... Skive tips................................................................................. Skive quarters.......................... ........................ .................... Skive foxings____ _________________ ___________________ Skive tongues.................................................................. ....... Crimp vamps........ ................................. ............................ Crimp linings........................................................................... Perforate tips........................................................................... Tie and case up for fitting room and put on stickers........ Stamp linings......................................................................... Cut stays.................................................................................. Skive stays............................................................................... Split stays................................................................................ Paste stays............................................................................... Case and inspect.................................................................... General work........................................................................... Assemble...................................... ..................... ........ ............ Cut linings, hand............................................................ Cut cripples............................................................................ Double light quarters............................................................ Sweep......... ........................................................ .......... .......... General work.......................................................................... Machinist’s work.............................................................. . Organization _ _ _ __________ Total............................................................................... STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Unload trucks.......................................................................... Mark quarters................................................... .................... Close quarters.......................................................................... Close foxings............................................................................ Rub quarter seams................................................................. Rub foxing seams................................................................... Stay quarters and foxings..................................................... Stitch foxings........................................................................... Stay web heels................................................. ...................... Stay sides.................................................................................. Match quarters and linings.................................................. Lay in quarters and linings.................................................. Inseam...................................................................................... Bead.......................................................................................... Top stitch____t ....................................................................... Trim side stays....................................................................... Eyelet....................................................................................... Hook......................................................................................... Double vamps........ ............................................................... Stitch tips................................................................................. Stitch tongues.......................................................................... Case box toes........................................................................... Stitch box toes......................................................................... Match quarters and vamps.................................................. Vamp......................................................................................... Trim, final........ ....................................................................... Pack........................................................................................... Push boxes............................................................................... Hang up uppers and send to lasting room........................ Inspect....................................................................................... Back shoe work................................................. ........ . . . ___ Repairing belts.............................................................. ........ 14.089 7.045 21.134 202.000 23.000 158.333 5.000 4.583 2.500 43.750 10.000 5.000 17.500 10.000 23.333 25.833 3.750 8.333 6.667 6.667 15.000 9.042 101.250 2a 833 32.083 34.583 14.583 30.417 14.167 6.667 13.333 14.167 8.695 7.045 7.045 21.134 $0,141 .039 .070 2.013 .229 .917 .063 .052 .031 .559 .052 .025 .125 .052 .198 .167 .038 .104 .031 .063 .111 .052 .642 .142 .158 .221 .071 .240 .083 .063 .167 .063 .050 .037 .063 .282 $0,600 .332 .199 .598 .597 .347 .756 .681 .744 .767 .312 .300 .429 .312' .509 .388 .608 .749 .279 .567 .444 .345 .380 .409 .295 .383 .292 .473 .352 .567 .752 .267 .345 .315 .537 .801 1,006.895 7.665 .457 425.86 851.67 283.90 29.70 260.87 37.89 1,200.00 1,309.19 2,400.00 137.14 600.00 1,200.00 342.86 600.00 257.15 232.26 1,600.00 720.03 899.96 899.96 4oaoo 663.57 59.26 28a 00 187.01 17a 50 411.44 197.26 423.52 899.96 450.01 423.52 690.05 851.67 851.67 283.90; \ = 7.500 22.917 27.917 12.917 17.917 11.250 29.167 75.000 25.000 75.000 7.083 13.333 34.167 38.750 125.000 18.333 18.750 20.417 25.000 5a 250 64.167 a 667 25.833 7.083 141.667 30.000 15.000 20.417 6.250 13.750 13.333 5a 358 7.045 .042 .094 .115 .094 .073 .042 .208 .500 .167 .333 .036 .073 .271 .188 .854 .094 .146 .135 .104 .271 .281 .042 .188 .047 1.063 .177 .115 .104 .028 .063 .063 .230 .032 .336 .246 .247 .437 .244 .224 .428 .400 .401 .266 .305 .329 .476 .291 .410 .308 .467 .397 .250 .289 .263 .378 .437 .398 .450 .354 .460 .306 .269 .275 .284 .245 .273 = = * 800.00/ 261.8lC 214.92S 464.50 334.88 533.33 205.71 80.00 240.00 80.00 847.10 450.01 175.61 154.84 48.00 327.28 320.00 293.87 240.00 106.67 93.51 899.96 232.26 847.10 42.35 200.00 400.00 293.87 960.00 436.36 450.01 106.46 851.67 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 25 105 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 2 5 .—Men’s McKay, box side, wax top, straight foxed, capped laced blucher, half double sole, leather heel—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost, of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Sweep____________ ___________________________________ Machinist’s work ____________________________________ Organization.. . ___ _______________________________ 8.695 28.179 42.268 $0,050 .237 .412 $0.345 .505 .585 Total___________ _______________________________ 1,148.380 6.972 .364 12.500 4.600 4.750 3.000 3.600 .158 .035 .065 .026 .046 .758 .457 .821 .520 .767 T otal............................................................................. Insoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade____________________________________________ Sort......... ................................................................. ....... Rack....... ................. ........................................................ Case.................... ........................................... ........ ......... 28. 450 .330 .696 18.000 4.800 6.500 11.500 1.750 .203 .030 .081 .096 .017 .677 .375 .748 .501 .582 Total_________________ ______ _________ ________ Slip soles: Cut..................................................................................... Sort______________________________________________ Case_____________________________________________ 42. 550 .427 .602 11.160 9.25S 8.900 .139 .108 .088 .747 .700 .593 Total.............................................................................. Top pieces: Cut______________ ____ ______________ ____________ Compress________________________________________ Skive________________ _______ _____ ______________ Sort.................................................................................. Case__________________________________________ _ 29.318 .335 .686 12.700 5.400 2. 700 9.800 1.500 .135 .054 .018 .115 .007 .638 .600 .400 .704 .280 Total_____________________________________ _____ Counters: Cut______________________ _________________ ______ Flat sort_________________________________________ Grade____________________________________________ Skive................................................................................. End shave_________________ _________ ____________ Wet. t>nll Wax roll____ ______________ _____ __________ _____ Mold.................................................................................. Inspect....................... .......... ................... ........................ Case_________________ __________ _____ ___________ Tie up____________ ______ __________________ _____ 32.100 .329 .615 19.000 4.000 4.000 2.700 1.500 . 750 1.000 7.000 3.500 1.500 1.333 .204 .047 .022 .018 .010 .005 .009 .070 .021 .007 .012 .644 .705 .330 .400 .400 .400 .540 .600 .360 .280 .540 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 690.05 212.92 141.95 ___________ _ SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: Cut..................................................................................... Grade____________________________________________ Sort......... ................... ....................................................... Rack_____________________________________________ Case.................................................................. ............... Total _._ __ ._ Box toes, leather 1_______________________________ ____ Ucels: Cut piece lifts________________ ______ _____________ Sort piece lifts_______________________ ___ _____ _ Serve piece lifts___________________________________ Paste.................................................. ............................. Build logs____________________________ ______ ____ Serve logs______________ ______ ___________________ Slice logs __ ___ .__ ___ _ . __ Form rands______________________________________ Butt.................................................................................. Compress _. _ . . __ Inspect, d ry __________________________ ___________ Case_____________________________________________ Tack rands____. . . . . .......................... _________ _____ Tack tops _____ _ _ __ __ _ __ Total_____________ 46.283 .425 .551 113.788 1.033 .545 52.600 6.500 1.200 .250 25.250 .250 1.500 7.250 2.000 2.500 5.250 2.000 5.700 3,500 .605 .030 .011 .002 .150 .003 .017 .062 .014 .026 .027 .019 .048 .036 .690 .277 .550 .480 .356 .720 .680 .513 .420 .624 .309 .570 .505 .617 115.750 1.050 .544 480.00 1,305.00 1,263.16 2,000.00 1,666.70 333.33 1,250.00 923.08 521.74 3,428.57 537.60 648.00 674.00 472.44 1, 111. 11 2,222.22 612.24 4,000.00 315.79 1.500.00 1.500.00 2,222.22 4,000.00 8,000.00 6,000.00 857.14 1,714.29 4,000.00 4,501.12 114.07 923.08 5,000.00 24,000.00 237.62 24,000.00 4,000.00 827.64 3,000.00 2,400.00 1,142 86 3,000.00 1,052.60 1,714.29 . 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140 106 t im e a n d l a b o r c o sts - h m id *-w e s t e r n d is t r ic t , TIM E AND LAB OB COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928. BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D '-W E S T E R N * D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t- N o , 25.—Men's. M^Kay, box- side, wax top, straight foxed, capped- laced blucher, half doable sole; leather heel..—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded. Stoek- fitting; Unpack and recase outsoles____________________ Skive* slips.................................................................... Butt slips..................................................................... Stamp case number, sort grades, and watch temper. Roll outsoles.................................................................... Round outsoles_____________________ _______ _____ Round insoles........... ..................................................... Channel outsoles............................................................. Flat'press outsoles.......................................................... D r y outsoles................................................................... Assemble outsoles, slips, and midsoles, cement out soles for slips, stick slips, and put in press............ Press and put in red...................................................... Trim slips................... .................................................... Gauge toes....................................................................... Tack wood shanks.............................. „........................ Wet outsoles for molders.............................................. Mold insoles............... ......................... ......................... Turn lips..................... __................................................. Dip insoles_____________________ _____________ ____ Rack and-unrack soles.................................................. Moldoutsoles.... ................................... ......................... Check ami send up stock. Back shoe work............... Sweep........................... ....... Organization........ .............. 5.417 6.250 6; 250 8.333 11.667 19.583 13.333 16.667 9.583 9.583 $0,042 .063 .052 .063 .094 .219 .125 .167 .073 .063 $0,465 .605 .499 .454 .483 .671 .563 .601 .457 .394 1,107.62 960.00 960.00 720.03 514.27 306.39 450.01 359.99 626.11 626.11 19.167 17.917 19.583 8.333 14.167 8.750 6.250 12.083 6.667 6.250 8.750 6.667 7.083 8.695 14.089 .188 .146 .135 .083 .104 .083 .083 .125 .042 .063 .115 .056 .042 .050 .170 .589 .489 .414 .598 .440 .569 .797 .621 .378 .605 .789 .504 . 356 .345 .724 313.04 334.88 306.39 720.03 423.52 685.71 960.00 496.57 899.96 960.00 685.71 899.96 847.10 690.05 425.86 Total. 271.117 % 446 .541 Total, sole-leather department___ 679.356 6.375 .563 19.583 29.167 61.250 10.417 67.917 96. 667 268.333 25.600 16.417 64.167 12.088 60:000 39.588 40.000 9.167 .208 .167 .417 .073 .625 .750 2.000 .125 .052 .521 .083 .500 .292 .302 .058 166 067 059 050 637 344 ,408 ,420 ,552 ,466 ,576 ,300 .300 211 ,412 ,500 ,443 453 380 ,471 ,285 502 ,345 899 818.803 6.726 493 13.333 74.583 17.083 28;333 10; 417 21. 667 23.750 12.917 26.250 15; 83? 10.000 30.417 30.417 26; 667 25.833 7.045 .063 .635 .104 .104 .063 .125 .125 .063 .229 .083 .073 .156.271 .250 .167 .059 284 511 365 220 363 346 316 293 ,523 315 438 308 535 568 ,388 ,502 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Assemble lasts....................- ...................... Tack insoles................................................ Assemble for pull-over machine________ Chalk lasts............................. ..................... Pull, over, machine........................... ........ Side last, machine.................................... Operate bed machine................................ Pull insole tacks........................................ Pull back tacks . ............... ........................ Pound................................... ....................... Put up stock...................... ........................ Lay soles............................. ........................ Full lasts........................... ......................... Crown................................. ........................ Push racks........................ .......... ............... Cobble............................... ... ....................... Back shoe work.......................................... Machinist’s work______ ______________ Sweep........................................................... Organization................................................ Total.................................................. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT; Wet insole grooves........................................ M cKay sew.................................................... Nail seats............................ ........................... Cement channels........................................... Wet soles......................................................... Lay channels................................................. Fudge first time................ ........................... Sort for leveler............................................... Level............................................................... Dye taps......................................................... Serve heels.......................... ........................... Feed heels............ .................. ..................... Heel................................................................. Trim heels............... ........ ............................ Breast heels.................................................. Cobble_________________________________ 21.134 14; 089 7.045 8. 695 14.089 .487 306.39 205.71 97.96 575.98 88.34 62.07 28.80 240.00 575.98 93.51 496.57 100.00 151.58 150.00 654.52 m oo 425.86 851. 67 690.05 425.86 450.01 80.43* 351.23 211.77 575.98 276.92 252.63 464.50 228.57 378.96 600.00 197.26 197.26 225.00 232.26 851. 67 E S T A B U S H M E N T N O . 30; 107 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE. MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923;. BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W 1 S T B R N M S T R I O T -C o n tin u e d * E s t a b l i s h m e n t - N o . 2 5 . —Men’s McKay, box side, wax top, straight foxed, capped laced blucher, half double sole, leather heel—Concluded. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Trim edges............................................................................... Back shoe work....................................................................... Machinist's work................................................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Operate elevators.................................................................... Organization............................................................................ 93.750 7.045 7.045 21. 667 8.695 8.454 14.089 $0,917 .039 .059 .208 .050 .056 .200 $0,587 .332 .502 .576 .345 .397 .852 Total___________________ ______ ________________ FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Ink edges.................................................................................. Set edges......... - ....................................................................... Scour heels............................................................................... Ink heels................................................................................... B u ff.......................................................................................... Cleanuppers........................................................................... Ink bottoms...............................................- ............................ Stamp bottoms and heels.................................................. . Burnish bottoms..................................................................... Burnish heels........................................................................... Wheel........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................ 535.290 4.099 .450 13.750 40.833 41. 667 20.833 58.750 24.167 30.000 13.750 39.167 34.583 14.167 11.074 .094 .313 .365 .104 . 521 .229 .167 .083 .458 .292 .094 .104 .410 .460 .52ft .300 .532 .569 .334 .362. .702 .507 .398 .563 Total.......................... ................................... ................ TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. 342.741 2.824 .494 7.917 62.500 22.500 44.167 34.583 9.583 36.667 24.167 12.917 22.500 7.083 22.917 14.167 6.667 21.134 49.313 8.694 13.333 21.134 7.045 10.060 .063 1.083 .104 .292 .229 .052 .188 .146 .104 .125 .055 .146 .083 .042 .159 .348 .051 .097 .137 .070 .103 .477 1.040 .277 .397 .397 .326 .308 .362 .483 .333 .466 .382 .352 .378 .451 .423 .352 .437 .389 .596 .614 Tree, machine.......................................................................... Clean linings............................................................................ Dress......................................................................................... Brush, final.............................................................................. Case sock linings..................................................................... Sock linings.............................................................................. Lace................................................................... ...................... Sort and mate tips____________________ ______ ________ Label cartons............................................ - ............................ Stencil containers................................................... - .............. Pack.......................................... ............................................... Get out cases for packers........ ............................................. Push racks................................................................................ Supplies.................................................................................... Inspect......... .................... ....................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Seal cases........ ............................. ............................. ........... Handle cases........ . ...... ........................ ........ .......... .......... Ship........................................................................................... Organization...... ............................................ ......................... Tntal G ra n d tota l . . . . . . .. . E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . ___ _ _ . 64.00 851. 67 851. 67 276.92 690.05 700.72 425.88: — 459.048 3:677 .481 4,990.513 38.338 .461 ......-v 436.36146.94 144.00 288.00 102.13 248.27 200.00 436.36 153.19 173.50 423.52 541.81 757.86 96.00 266.67 135.85 173.50 626.11 163.63 248.27 464.50 266.67 847.10 261.81 423.52 899.96 283.90 121.67 690.13 450.01 283.90 851.67 596.42. SO—Men's Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Cut vamps and whole shoes, hand__________ _________ Cut trimmings, m a c h i n e _ _ _ _ _ Sort............................................................................................ Stamp uppers.............................. ........................... ............. Cut hnings, machine............... ............................. ............... Stamp linings.......................................................................... Cut doublers, hand............................................................... Skive......................................................................................... Set tips......................... ............................... .......................... Inspect...................................................................................... Cut back shoes........................................................................ Assemble__ __ . . . . . . _______ *.____ .._____ ____ ___ Organization............................................................................ Total_________________________ ________ 750.000 83.333 76.800 41.667 41.667 33:333 25.000 166.667 16.667 125.000 19.200 25.00038.400 $11,500 .723 1.200 .246 .542 .277 .326 1.505 .116 1.9® .300 .174 .833 $0,920 .521 .938 .354 .780 .499 .782. .542 .418 .937 .938 .418 1302 1,442.734 19.695 .819 8.00 72.00 78.13 144.00 144.00 180.00 240.00 36.00 359.99 48.00 312.50 240.00 156.25 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N DISTRICT, 108 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. * M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . SO.— Men's Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT. 25.000 72.000 50.000 66.667 91.667 66.667 33.333 48.000 25.000 33.333 16.667 40.000 50.000 50.000 33.333 27.000 153.583 41.667 233.333 38.420 58.333 50.000 26.000 25.000 166.687 69.583 50.000 50.000 16.667 25.000 91.667 175.000 16. C67 58.333 264.000 33.333 41. 667 T X 333 *• '‘•00 00 67 1j:\300 38.400 $0,168 .750 .500 .750 .917 .361 .271 .333 .146 .312 .127 .375 .425 .312 .167 .187 1.333 .292 1.417 .333 .437 .396 .271 .187 2.250 .604 .354 .396 .104 .104 1.039 2.127 .127 .292 3.667 .312 .250 1.646 .347 .217 .092 1.133 .900 $0,403 .625 .600 .675 .coo .325 .488 .416 .350 .562 .457 .563 .510 .374 .301 .416 .521 .420 .364 .520 .449 .475 .625 .449 .810 .521 .425 .475 .374 .250 .680 .729 .457 .300 .834 .562 .360 .423 .833 .521 .331 .590 1.406 2,867.187 26,728 .559 Outsoles: Cut..................................................................................... Skive.................................................................................. Sort..................................................................................... Case.................................................................................... 21.120 22.153 64.000 19.200 .264 .200 .800 .240 .750 .542 .750 .750 Total............................................................................... 126.473 1.504 .714 Insoles: Cut......................................................................... ........... Skive................................................................................. Sort............... ..................................................................... Case.................................................................................... 80.000 28.800 40.320 16.941 1.000 .240 .504 .200 .750 .500 .750 .708 166.061 1.944 .702 158.915 1.314 .496 19.748 .240 .729 60.988 .720 .708 Sort linings for closer............................................................. Stitch backstay on lining..................................................... Paste lining sidestays........................................................... Line tongues.......................................... ................................. Stitch lining side stays and hold tongue........................... Stitch top band....................................................................... Trim lining under top band................................................. Ink vamps............. - .......................- ....................................... Trim toe pieces....................................................................... Paste box toes........................................................................ Paste toe pieces....................................................................... Fold tips................................................................................... Stitch tips................................................................................ Paste doublers......................................................................... Nick tops................................................................................. Cement quarters..................................................................... Fold quarters.......................................................................... Mark eyelet row..................................................................... Stitch eyelet row..................................................................... Ink quarters............................................................................ Close quarters....................................................................... Stay quarters........................................................................... Rub quarters-......................................................................... Match quarters and linings................................................. Stitch edges.............................................................................. Eyelet........................................................................................ Seam toes.................................................................................. Cut apart for toe seamer..................................................... Trim tape. .............................................................................. Mark vamp stitch ................................................................ Stitch blind row on vamps................................................... Match vamps and quarters................................................. Size vamps and quarters for vampers................................ Vamp....................................................................................... Trim ends................................................................................. Stitch backstays..................................................................... Inspect...................................................................................... Sort and tie up for lasters.................................................... Check o u t ............................................................................... Floor w o rk ............................................................................. Organization............................................................................. Tntal___________________________________________ 240.00 83.33 120.00 90.00 65.45 90.00 180.00 125.00 240.00 180.00 359.99 150.00 120.00 120.00 180.00 222.22 39.07 144.00 25.71 156.19 102.86 120.00 230.77 240.00 36.00 86.23 120.00 120.00 359.99 240.00 65.45 34.29 359.99 102.86 22.73 180.00 144.60 25.71 240.00 240.00 359.99 52.08 156.25 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Total Counters, leather1 Top pieces: Cnt and sort _ _ . _ _ .. ___ Box toes: Cut and f i t . . ................... ............................................... 284.09 270.84 93.75 312.50 ’ 75.00 208.33 148.81 354.17 * These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. Seepp. 132-140. 109 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O . 30. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1925, B Y D ISTR ICT, D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 80 — Men’s Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Heels: Fit stock__________________________________________ Cut lifts___________________________ - ........ - .............. Sort lifts............................................................................. Skive lifts________________________ __________ ____ Build heels__________________ _____________ ______ Paste heels________________________________________ Sand heels_________________________________ - _____ Compress heels___________________________________ Gauge lifts________________________________________ 22.000 90.000 15.000 15.000 60.000 25.000 20.000 15.000 20.000 $0.140. .900 .150 .160 .500 .200 .180 .200 .150 10.382 .600 .600 .640 .500 .480 .540 .800 .450 Total............................................................................... 282.000 2.580 .549 Stock fitting? Round insoles____________________________________ Turn insoles__________________ ___________________ Size insoles and cut lips___________________________ Channel insoles____ _*_____________________________ Dip insnlas Hamant nntsnlas _ _ _ Shank out outsoles________________________________ Gpnp.ral work _ _ _ __ Organization _ ____ __ _ 41.471 42.240 24.000 54.568 18.719 21.599 26.182 36.288 19.200 .504 .440 .200 .720 .130 .240 .200 .567 .433 .729 .625 .500 .792 .417 .667 .458 .938 1.353 Total , ____________________ 284.267 3.434 .725 Total, sole-leather department___ _______________ 1,098.452 11.736 .641 76.800 19.200 19.200 33.333 16.667 208.333 125.000 250.000 425.000 76.800 19.200 38.400 .533 .100 .120 .405 .127 2.333 2.167 4.500 6.500 1.133 .120 .700 .416 .313 .375 .729 .457 .672 1.040 1.080 .918 .885 .375 1.094 1,307.933 18.738 .860 16.667 25.000 48.000 18.250 93.833 24.000 40.417 41.167 27.417 29.750 29.500 16.333 8.333 33.000 9.750 53.250 24.000 173.333 8.583 10.500 16.667 16.667 12.500 50.000 .145 .280 .500 .190 2.150 .250 .590 .600 .400 .310 .430 .170 .052 .550 .061 1.220 .250 3.250 .104 .127 .174 .330 .152 .750 .522 .672 .625 1.375 .645 .625 .876 .875 .875 .625 .875 .624 .374 1.000 .375 1.375 .625 1.125 .727 .726 .626 1.188 .730 .900 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 272.73 66.67 400.0® 400.0® 100.09 240.0® 300.09 400.00 300.0® 144.68 142.05 250.00 109.95 320.53 277.7® 229.17 165.34 312.50 LASTING DEPARTMENT AssPTnt»lp. and put. away lasts _ _ __ Chalk lasts_______ ______ ________ ____________________ T,ay insoles and nnnntars oh raaks Tack insoles__________________________________________ Trim insoles__________________________________________ Assemble for pull-over machine_______________________ Pull over, machine_______ ___________________________ Side last, hand________________________________________ Operate bed machine_________________________________ Crown_______________________________________________ Back shoe work_______________________________________ Organization______ ___________________________________ Total__________________________________ . . . _____ BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim t-OftS _ __ __ ... ____ Staple __ _ _ - *Pilll taeks__ _ _ . _ _ _ Pnll wire .............. . _ _ Ooodyparwplt _ Pull insole tacks______________________ 1______________ Trim welts___________________________________________ Rnt-t. waits _ , . _ .. _ . _ _ Boat w«1ts n. . , - PlftCPShanks ^ ____ Pill bottoms . n, ... nAjnant. bottoms . . . . . . ................. ................ . _ Weltupsolas. ...... .................... _ T^ysolas ......., T . _ TeCksolas___ . ___ Rough round . Open channels. _.. . , _ . Goodyear stitch_______________________________________ nprnpnt channels _ . T . . . . . . Lay channels Shape soles_______________________________ _____ _____ Nail heel seats________________________________________ Trim heel seats_______________________________________ Level........................................................................................ 84791°—24t----- 8 78.13 312.50 312.50 180.0® 359.99 28.8® 48.09 24.00 14.12 78.13 312.5® 156.25 359.99 240.06 125.0® 328.77 63.94 250.0® 148.45 145.75 218.84 201.68 203.39 367.35 720.03 181.82 615.38 112.67 250.0® 34.62 699.06 571.43 359.99 359.99 480.00 120.00 110 T IM E A N D L $ B O E COSTS— M ID -W E S T E R N DISTRICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PER ATIO N —Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 80.—Men’s Goodyear welt, russia calf bal., leather sole and heel—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. bottoming department—concluded. Sort (after leveling)____ _____ ________ _______________ Heel..................................... .................................................... Trim heels................................................................................ Trim edges............................................................. ................ Joint.......................................................................................... Crown............*................................................... ......... ........... Cobble...................................................................................... Organization...^............................................ - ....................... Total n, „ ^rnT 4.250 50.000 58.333 241.667 39.083 38.400 76.800 19.200 $0,052 1.250 1.550 3.600 .570 .467 .920 .400 $0,734 1.500 1.594 .894 .875 .730 .719 1.250 1,354.650 21.845 .968 41.667 58.333 196.250 41.667 34.250 25.000 85.750 48.000 50.750 50.000 33.333 16.667 16.667 41.667 33.333 16.667 125.000 15,250 25.000 25.000 58.333 25.000 25.000 66.667 38.400 .362 .660 3.270 .800 .500 .122 1.250 .700 .740 .450 .231 .139 .092 .333 .266 .093 1.519 .185 .208 .500 .900 .191 .122 .694 .933 .521 .679 1.000 1.152 .876 .293 .875 .875 .875 .540 .416 .500 .331 .480 .479 .335 .729 .728 .499 1.200 .926 .458 .293 .625 1.458 1,411.77 120.00 102.86 24.83 153. 52 156.25 78.13 312.50 PINISniNG DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts................................................ .......................... Scour heels........*............................................. ........... „........ Set edges............................— ................................................ Naumkeag ....................................................................... Smooth heels............................................._............................ Ink heels............................ *.................................................. Burnish heels.............................................................. ......... Sandbottoms......................................................................... Roll bottoms......... .......... .................................. ................... Polish bottoms____ ____ _________ ______________ _____ Brush edges.... .......................................... ............................. Polish edges............................................................................. Glue heels_ ...................... ...................................................... Comer heels................... ...................................................... Bead seats................................................... ............. ........... Stripe heel seats...................................................................... Stain bottoms...__________ __________ ________________ Stripe bottoms................. ...................................................... Bleat*............. 1......................................... ........................... Pull lasts. ................................................................................ Separate stitches............. ............................................ .......... Stamp.............................. . - I - . . . .......................................... Crown............i . . . ................. ................................................ Organization...... .................................................. ................. Total rr- -- 1,193.651 15.260 144.00 102.86 30.57 144.00 175.18 240.00 69.98 125.00 118.23 120.00 180.00 359.99 359.99 144.00 180.00 359. 99 48,00 393.44 240.00 240.09 102.86 249.69 240.00 90.00 156.25 .767 1 i TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Feel for tacks............ ............................................................. Sock lining................................................................................ Tree, hand....... ...................................................................... Repair...................................................................................... Dress....................................................... ................................. Clean stitches...................... •_................. ............................... Lace and clean linings............................................................ Brush......................................................................................... Rag edges and heels................................................................ Iron top bands................. ...................... ............. ................. Emboss................................. ................................................... Check and size out__________ _______ __________ ______ Inspect........................... ..................... ..................................... Mark cartons.......................................................................... Pack......................................................................................... Crown..................................................................................... Ship........................................................................................... Organization___ _______ ____________ _________________ Total_______________________ Grand total___ __ ,, , 12.500 25.000 411.417 50.000 66.-667 16.667 33.333 25.4)00 16.667 33.333 25.000 33.333 41.667 8.333 25.000 38.400 41.667 57.600 .069 .130 5.000 .608 .694 .081 .185 .130 .092 .174 .156 .174 .506 .052 .217 .433 .760 1.667 961.584 11.118 10,226.191 125.120 .331 .312 .729 .739 .625 .292 .333 .312 .331 .313 .374 .313 .729 .374 .521 .677 1.080 1.737 .694 { .734 480.00 240.00 14.58 m oo 90.00 359.99 180.09 240.00 359.99 180.00 240.00 180.00 144.60 720.03 240.00 156.25 144.00 104.17 111 E S T A B L IS H M E N T N O .'B t TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N M S T R I C T -C o n t i n u e d . E s ta b lis h m e n t SI.—Women's McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, single sole, with leather top lift. No Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. wood heel Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Prepare jobs for cutters.......................................................... Cut vamps and whole shoes, hand.................................... Cut cloth linings, hand.......................................................... Cut leather linings, hand...................................................... Cut sock linings...................................... ............................... Mark linings............................................................................ Mark sizes................................................................................ Sort and size out parts........................................................... Block cut.................................................................................. Cobble (cut back shoes) ........................................................ Organization- ...................... —.......................- ....................... Total _ ,, __ _______ -j 144.000 450.000 60.000 240.000 75.000 216.000 432.000 144.000 72.000 144.000 72.000 $1,925 8.375 1.000 2.500 1.000 1.275 2.475 .800 .375 2.203 1.250 $0,802 1.116 1.000 .625 .800 .354 .344 .333 .312 .918 1.042 2,049.000 23.178 .679 72.000 72.000 72.000 72.000 30.000 100.000 67.476 34.286 34.286 270.000 73.350 61.125 315.000 .91.258 33.490 56.657 54.000 120.000 130.000 335.000 205.711 320.000 60.000 276.000 135.000 68.874 60.000 300.000 391.000 60.000 144.000 144.000 144.000 72.000 72.000 288.000 .400 .400 .400 .400 .250 .600 .500 .250 .250 2.500 .600 .500 4.500 1.000 .250 .600 .400 1.000 1.500 4.250 2.500 4.000 .500 2.025 .500 1.100 .900 3.000 .333 .850 .850 .850 .400 .400 3.550 .333 .333 .333 .333 .500 .360 .445 .438 .438 . 556 .491 .491 .857 .658 .448 .635 .444 .500 .692 .761 .729 .750 .500 .440 .222 .958 .900 .600 .614 .333 .354 .354 .354 .333 .333 .739 4,834.513 41.641 .517 84.111 110.404 158.915 55.330 113.788 .892 1.069 1.314 .587 1.033 .637 .581 .496 .636 .545 5.000 14.000 10.000 15.000 15.000 26.000 .078 .094 .156 .234 .234 .188 .936 .403 .936 .936 .936 .434 41.67 13.33 100.00 25.00 80.00 •27.78 13.89 41.67 83.33 41.67 83.33 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Check in and out.............................................. .................... Ink edges.................................................................................. Count and match linings...................................................... Paste stays................................................................................ Edge.......................................................................................... Closet quarters.......................................................................... Close collars............................................................................. Rub quarters........................................................................... Rub collars............................................................................... Cement quarters..................................................................... •Cement vamp line.................................................................. Cement back stays................................................................. Sew on bindings..................................................................... Stretch bindings..................................................................... Paste on stays.......................................................................... Line vam ps............................................................................. Lay in.................................................................................. . Coat seams............................................................................... Sew on anchors........................................................................ Fold quarters........................................................................... Fold vamp line........................................................................ Stitch edges.............................................................................. Trim.......................................................................................... Make linings............................................................................ Paste..................... ................................................................... Make buttonholes................................................................ Sew on buttons.......................................... ........................... Case out.................................................................................. Vamp........................................................................................ General table work...............- ................................................ Reenforce buttonholes.......................................................... Mark for fancy stitching...................... - .............................. Inspect cut-outs....................................................................... Button and trim................................................................... Trim threads and linings*..................................................... Organization............................................................................ Total __________ _________ ____ 4.000 83.33 83.33 83.33 83.33 200.60 00.00 88.92 175.90 175.60 22.22 81.80 98.16 19.05 65.75 179.16 105.90 111. 11 50.00 46.15 17.91 29.17 18.75 100.00 21.74 44.44 87.12 100.00 20.00 15.35 100.00 41.67 41.67 41.67 83.33 83.33 20.83 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Ontsoles, leather Insoles, leather 1 Counters, leather i _ Box toes, leather 1 . _ T ,, _ Top pieces, leather 1_______ ^ ________________ n , , __________ , ,,T ______________ Stock fitting: Put on racks................. ................................................... Sand................................................... ................................... Wet ____________________________________________________________________ r _ _ Case up.... ......................................................................... Skive................. .... .......... ................................................................................................................................... Round................................................................................ 1,200.00 428.57 600.60 400.00 400.00 230.77 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 112 TIME AND lA S a fiT'COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT. TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . S t . —Women’s McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, single sole, wood heel with leather top lift—Continued. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— c o n c lu d e d . Stock fitting—Concluded. M a r k ,.................................................................. Channel--............................................................ Shank out.............................................................. Put on tape............................................................ Turn lips__............................................................ Tie u p ................................................................... Put in racks...............: .......................................... Case up, mark, and pound................................ Put on nonsqueak............................................... Put in shanks........................................................ Tie up and put on racks..................................... Organization............. ........................................... 10.000 40.000 40.000 30.000 40.000 20.000 5.000 15.000 30.000 30.000 10.000 72.000 $0.073 .625 .306 .146 .278 .139 .021 .146 .146 .146 .042 1.125 $0,438 .938 .459 .292 .417 .417 .252 .584 .292 .292 .252 .937 T o ta l-................................................................ 427.000 4.177 .587 Total, Sole-leather department....................... 949.548 9.072 .573 Pick lasts______________________ Tack insoles.................................. . Assemble for pull-over machine. Pull over, machine....................... Draft counters.............................. . Side last, hand............................. . Operate bed machine.................. . Pound.............................. : .......... . Iron buttons___________________ Pull insole tacks__....................... Tack shanks_________ _______ Fill bottom s................................. Organization................................. . 60.000 60.000 180.000 100.000 100.000 90.000 240.000 100.000 60.000 60.000 120.000 60.000 36.000 .729 .800 1.800 1.800 1.350 1.800 4.005 1.350 .800 .650 .916 .375 .625 .729 .800 .600 1080 .810 1.200 1.001 .810 .800 .650 .458 .375 1.042 T o ta l--............................... . 1,266.000 17.000 .806 120.000 75.000 120.000 90.000 90.000 75.000 90.000 90.000 240.000 72.000 36.000 1.800 1.080 2.000 .625 1.000 1.000 1.575 .800 3.699 .500 .625 .900 .864 1.000 .417 .667 .800 1.050 .533 .925 .417 1.042 1,09a 000 14.704 .804 180.000 90.000 75.000 90.000 150.000 120.000 60.000 75.000 150.000 60.000 17.000 75.000 75.000 60.000 60.000 540.000 150.000 90.000 300.000 2.250 1.406 .521 .900 1.823 1.458 .938 .651 1350 .625 .333 .750 .911 .375 .437 5.630 1.250 .718 5.000 600.00 150,00 150.00 200.00 150.00 300.00 1,200.00 400.00 200.00 200.00 600.00 83.33 LASTING DEPARTMENT. 100.00 100.00 33.33 60.00 60.00 66.67 25.00 60.00 100.00 100.0# 50t 00 100.00 166.67 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT.4 Lay soles................................................... Pull lasts and turn channels.................. M cKay sew..................................................... Cement channels........................................... . Level (Atlas).................................................. Lay channels................................................. Last, second time........................ ................. Level, second time........................................ Trim edges.... ................................................. Sweep............................................................... Organization................................................... T o ta l--................................................. .M . ’ 50.00 80.00 50.00 66.67 66.67 80.00 66.67 66.67 25.00 83.33 166.67 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Set edges, first time..................................... Set edges, second time............................... Button shoes................................................. Sand bottoms............................................... Naumkeag.................................................... Stain bottoms............................................... Bleach............................................................ After finish................................................... Clean and brush edges............................... Polish............................................................. Pull lasts....................................................... Nail wood heels........................................... Pound toes.................................................... Put lasts away............................................ . Sort shoes on elevator................................. . Cover heels................................................... Skive and sand breasts............................. . . Set top pieces.............................................. . Fit heels............................ ...........................* * Wood heels used; covered, etc., in the finishing department. .750 .937 .417 .600 .729 .729 .938 .521 .540 .625 1.175 .600 .729 .375 .437 .625 .500 .479 1.000 33.33 66.67 80.00 66.67 40.00 50.00 100.00 80.00 40.00 100.00 352.94 80.00 80.00 100.00 100.00 11.11 40.00 66.67 20.00 ESTABLISHM ENT NO. 38. 113 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . SI.—Women’s McKay, black satin, one-strap oxford, single sole, wood heel with leather top lift—Concluded Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. FINISHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. 210.000 480.000 75.000 105.000 72.000 144.000 $3,750 7.250 .625 1.035 .400 2.750 $1.071 .906 .500 .591 .333 1.146 _ _ 3,503.000 43.136 .739 Trim throats...................................................................... Sock linings....................................................................... Tree and iron, hand.......................................................... Button or lace................................................................... Brush bottoms.................................................................. Mark boxes....................................................................... Pack..................................... ............................................. Stick................................................................................... Iron and line...................................................................... Inspect............................................................................... In k .................................................................................... Singe................................................................................. Organization...................................................................... 90.000 103.000 288.000 60.000 60.000 30.000 120.000 60.000 60.000 120.000 90.000 90.000 72.000 .860 2.000 2.500 .340 .420 .190 .790 .270 .250 .920 .510 .560 1.125 .567 1.165 .521 .340 .420 , .360 .395 .270 .250 .460 .340 . 373 .937 Clamp heels. .................................................................... Cement and sand breasts................................................. Sew covers*....................................................................... Inspect heels...................................................................... Clean and inspect............................................................. Organization...................................................................... Total _. _ ___ __ 26.57 12.50 80.00 57.14 83.33 41.67 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Total________________ _____ _______ __________ 1,243.000 10.725 .518 Grand total_________ ________________________ 14,943.061 159.456 .640 E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 66.67 58.25 20.83 100.00 100.00 200.00 50.00 100.00 100.00 50.00 66.67 66.67 83.33 58.—Men’s Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron single sole, 3J/8 leather heel with 31/8 rubber top lift. C U T T IN G D E P A R T M E N T . Put up jobs................................................................... . Selecting dies for cutters............................................. Supplies....................................................................... Cut vamps, tips, quarters, and tongues, machine. Sort complete............................................... Cut linings, machine................................... Case tongues and backstays..................... Match mark................................................. Cut eyelet stays, hand............................... Skive complete............................................. Sort and tie up............................................. Back shoe work............................................ Sweep. .......................................................... Machinist’s work........................................ Organization................................................. Total................................................... 10.800 21.600 2.700 402.000 39.000 42.000 20.000 42. C00 222.000 160.000 16.200 10.800 6.171 5.400 32.400 $0,076 .073 .021 4.680 .490 .320 .100 .160 .940 .810 .050 .060 .034 .054 .433 $0,422 .203 .467 .699 .754 .457 .300 .229 .254 .304 .185 ,033.071 8.301 .482 15.000 2.700 30.000 90.000 32.000 20.000 48.000 48.000 30.000 10.000 120.000 30.000 110.000 40.000 25.000 40.000 200.000 .070 .021 .160 .480 .130 .060 .180 .180 .120 .050 .380 .100 .600 .190 .180 .100 1.120 .280 .467 .320 .320 .244 .180 .225 .225 .240 .300 .190 .200 .327 .285 .432 .150 .336 .333 .331 .600 .802 555.55 277.78 2,222.22 14.93 153.85 142.86 300.00 142.86 27.03 37.50 370.37 555.55 972.29 1, 111. 11 185.19 ST IT C H IN G D E P A R T M E N T . Unpack uppers. .......................................... Supplies. ...................................................... .Stitch web heel stays................................. Stitch eyelet stays to lining................... . . Stitch top facing to lin in g ....................... Trim eyelet stays........................................ Stitch tongue lining.................................... Trace quarters............................................. Stitch quarters, side row........................... Rub quarter seams...................................... Back strap.................................................... Cement quarters and backstays............. Fold quarters and backstays................... Paste eyelet and hook stays...................... Lay linings to quarters. Top stitch...................... 400.00 2,222.22 200.00 66.67 187.50 300.00 125.00 125.00 200.00 600.00 50.00 200.00 54.55 150.00 240.00 15a 00 30.00 H i TIM E AND LABO # COSTS— M ID -W ESTERN DISTRICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D '■ W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron single sole, 3£/8 leather heel with 3£/8 rubber top lift—Continued. J M a b l i t f m e i U 2 T o . $ $ . - ~ Men’s Time cost Labor cost of 100 pahs of 100 pairs (minutes). Department and operation. P.yftlftt. STITCHING DEPARTMENT—concluded. . _ _. . . . . . _ __ Hourly wages. Inspect___ ______. . . . . ____ . . . . . . __ . . . ______________ Stitch, box t-flss ,. T. _____ , , _ _ SWAAp r T. _ .... Rack* shoe work _. _ r . TVTf*/*hinis+.'s work 0rqpni7.ati/pi ... 48.000 36.000 80.000 80.000 27.000 27.000 50.000 260. GOO 30.000 30.000 22.000 30.000 25.000 6.171 16.200 10.800 27.000 $0,230 .150 .390 .360 .130 .150 .220 1.800 .130 .130 .110 .190 .130 .034 .060 .125 .304 $0,288 .250 ..293 .270 .289 .333 .264 .415 .260 .260 .300 .380 .312 .331 .222 .694 .676 Total_____ ______ ___ ______ __________________ 1,695.871 8.764 .310 12.500 4.600 4.750 3.000 3.600 .158 .035 .065 .026 .046 .758 .457 .821 .520 .767 28.450 .330. .696 18.000 4.800 6.500 11.500 1.750 .203 .030 .081 .096 .017 .677 .375 .748 .501 .582 Total....................................................................................................................... 42.550 .427 .602 Counters: Out __________ Flat sort_ . ' .. . ,. ... Grade _ _ . r , Skive _____________ _ Shave ends _ _.r_ ____ Roll, wet. ~ .. _ i— i . . . T „ _ Roll, wax _ r . ’ rr. r _ Mold ____________ ______ Inspect, . ,, _ .. . _ _ r . r . „ _ „ , . Case___________________________________________________________________ Tie up _____n _ _ " _______ r . . r ________ .... r .. 19.000 4.000 4.000 2.700 1.500 .750 1.000 7.000 3.500 1.500 1.333 .204 .047 .022 .018 .010 .005 .009 .070 .021 .007 .012 .644 .705 .330 .400 .400 .400 .540 .600 .360 .280 .540 .TTnlfi vamps and tips . . . . . . Dabble vamps . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay vamps, tr-^r. T Stitnh tips . _ Vamps “ . ___ ____ . RaritTtoes and vamp linings . . . . . . . . . ■Rim*vamps . . . __ _ _____ _ ___ _ _ ____ , _ __ . Number of pairs worked on per hour. 125.00 166.67 75.00 75.00 222.22 222.22 120.00 23.08 200.00 200.00 272.73 200.00 .240.60 972.30 370.37 555.55 222.22 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles: (Tllf. ______ , . . •Grade____ ____ ___ ________________________ __ Sort____________________ _______ _______________ Rai?k_ r __ . _ Cpse - r n - * T. Total T _ ^ r_ _ Insoles: Cut __ _____________ ___ _______________ (Trade _ __ _ _ ___ _____ __ . Sort . . . Raok nr Case Total R ot _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ toes, leather 1,_____ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ . . . ____ 46.283 .425 .551 rr , _ . r „ 113.788 1.033 .545 27.970 3.250 6.000 1.500 .500 3.000 7.000 2.000 3.000 .233 .016 .035 .011 .002 .029 .062 .014 .0% 5.000 2.000 5.700 .500 .295 .350 .440 .240 .580 .531 .420 .520 .027 .010 .048 .324 .570 .505 66.920 .522 .468 Heels: Cut grain lifts_______________________________________________________ Sort grain lifts _ _ . _______________ _ Grade.. _______ . . . ____ ______ Serve lifts _ _______________ Serve paste______________________ _ _ ............... Build logs______________ _ _ _ _ ____ _ Form rands * _ ____ _____ B utt ________ Compress. _ _ r , , __ ___ Inspect, d r y ____________ Case. .. ___ . . . . . . . Tack rands _ _ _ ____ T o t a l____ _ _____________________ 480.00 1,305.00 1,263.16 2,000.00 i, 666.70 333.33 1,250.00 923.08 521.74 3,428.57 315.79 1.500.00 1.500.00 2,222.22 4.000. 8.000. 6,000.00 857.14 1,714.29 4,000.00 4,501.12 214.50 1,846.15 1,000.00 4.000. 00 12,000.00 2.000. 857.14 3.000. 2.000. 1,200.00 3,600.00 1,052.60 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-440. 00 00 00 00 00 ESTABLISH M ENT Nt>.f'38. ■r 115 , T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 38.—M en's Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron single.sole, 3J/8 leather heel with 3£/8 rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Stock fitting: Assemble insnlfts,,^ _ ____________________________ Round monies ... , ___ _ ___ Stamp insoles ......... _ _ _________________ Channel i n s o l e s __ Snip channels „ ^ ^•Cement insoles.. . . . . . . . __ _ ,_ ____ _ _ ______ Tip sat insole* ______ _ _ _ Canvas insoles , , ___ n . Reenforce insoles. ____________ _______ ______ ____ Case and tie insoles ................ . Stamp nntsnles ____ ______ Reduce shanks, outsells _ ........ Split heels ........ Temper o u t s o l d ................. _ . _ . _ Mold ontapi'ea , _ Cement nptsoles__ _ "Cssft nutsoles . __ ____, . _ flweep __ _ Organisation :f5»se riVhibar top pi pops _ . . . .. t0 .040 .090 .060 .240 .050 .080 .120 .200 .120 .070 .050 .080 .060 .070 .080 .070 .040 .034 .071 .033 $0,480 .491 .514 .576 .300 .369 .450 .444 .480 .467 .500 .480 .514 .525 .533 .525 .480 .331 .789 .367 207.971 1.658 .478 505.962 A 395 .521 27.000 22.000 10.000 ... 98.000 94.000 300.000 16.000 6.171 21.600 .260 .180 .080 .660 1.080 .960 2.960 .140 .034 .288 .578 .491 .480 .440 .661 .613 .592 .525 .331 .800 Total............................................ .... .......................... 684.771 6.642 .582 16.000 18.000 34.000 12.000 60.000 18.000 31.000 43. 000 18.000 12.000 22.000 12.000 10.000 24.000 48.000 16.000 120.000 24. 000 16. 000 20.000 16.000 20.000 10.000 45.000 45.000 27.000 .29.000 80.000 .150 .160 .280 .080 .840 .160 .300 .320 .180 .110 .180 .100 .080 .280 .660 .120 1.480 .200 .120 .150 .130 .180 .080 .540 .200 .280 .190 .980 29.000 .240 .563 .533 .494 .400 .840 .533 .581 .447 .600 .550 .491 .500 .480 .700 .825 .450 .740 .500 .450 .450 .488 .540 .480 .720 .267 .622 .393 .735 .497 Total . . . . . . . Total, sole-leather department_____ - __________ .LASTING DEPARTMENT. Assemble lasts,___________ _______________ __________________ Tank insoles __ _ _ _ _ _ -Chalk lasts _ ... _ _____ _ _ __ Assemble for pull-over machine______________________________________________________ Pull over, machine _ _ Ride last,, machine .... n Operate bed machine Crown Sweep___ _ , Organization _ r __ ,_ . __ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ 5.000 11.000 7.000 25.000 10.000 13.000 16.000 27.000 15.000 9.000 6.000 10.000 7.000 8.000 9.000 8.000 5.000 6.171 5.400 5.400 90.000 1,200.00 545.46 857.16 240.00 600.00 461.54 375.00 222.22 400.00 666.67 1,990.00 600.90 857.16 750.00 666.67 750.00 1,200.00 972.30 1, 111. 11 1, 111. 11 222.22 272.73 600.00 66.67 61.22 63.83 20.00 375.00 972.80 277.78 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim toes Staple __ __ _ ___ _ ___ . . . __________ Sat. tanks Wet insoles __ Goodyear welt Pull bottom tacks. Trim inseams _ Butt welts .... _ _ _ ___ “ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ . _ _ _ __________________________ ___ __ ____ _____ Beat welts____________________________________ ’__........................................................ .... ........ ...................... Stick shanks_______________________________________ Fill bottoms......... .... .......................... .... ............ ..................... Cement welts______________________________________________________________________________________________ Match outsoles and shoes __ Lay soles_______ __________________ _______________________________________________________________________________ Rough round___________ ______________________ __________________________ _________________________________ Turn up channels . _ _ ________ _ Goodyear stitch__________ _______________________________________________________________________________ Cement channels............................................................ ................................................................................................................. Turn down -channels__________________________________________ ____________________ _______________ Nail heel seats_____________ ____________________________________________________ __________________________ Trim heel seats . _ ___ Level........_ • _ ................... .... ................. .... ............................ Match heels to shoes _ _ _ _ _______ _ __ Heed________________________ ________________________ ______________ _____________________________ Set nails _ _ _ _ _ ____ ___ . _ _ __ Trim heels......................................................................................... ............................................................................................... .. Breast_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Trim edges._ _ _ __ __ ___________________ „ __ Joint_____________________________________ _______________ _____________________________________________________________ .Machinist's work............................................ - ....................................—___________________________ - ______ - 10.800 .134 .744 '875.00 333.33 176.47 500.00 100.00 333.33 193.55 139.54 333.33 500.00 272.73 500.00 600.00 250.00 125.00 875.60 50.00 250.00 375.00 300.00 375.00 300.00 600.00 133.33 133. $5 222.22 206.90 75.00 206.90 555.55 116 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— MID-WESTEBN DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M AN U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D O PER ATIO N — Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. Men’s Goodyear welt, mahogany kid, seamless vamp, cap toe, bal. (high), 9-iron single sole, 3J/8 leather heel with 3J/8 rubber top lift—Concluded. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 8 8 — Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Back shoe work................................................................. Inspect and cobble........................................................... W ind bobbins - .....................: ........................................... Sweep-................................. - - - - - .................................... Operate elevators.............................................................. Organization..................................................................... 5.400 5.400 10.800 6.171 5.400 16.200 $0,020 .035 .037 .034 .039 .225 $0,222 .389 .206 .331 .433 .833 Total____ •................... ; ........................................... 935.171 9.294 .596 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour breasts___; .............................................................. Scour heels, first time...................................................... Set edges............... - ........................................................... Brush edges...................... - ............................................... Scour heels, second time.................................................... Ink heels............................................................................ Sand bottoms..................................................................... Brush bottoms— ................. .................................— -Bleach< bottoms................................................................ Gum bottoms-................................................................... Burnish heels*..................................................................... Polish bottoms.................................................................. Wheel bottoms.................................................................. Cut strings......................................................................... Pull lasts................................- .......................................... Stamp bottoms.................................................................. Back shoe work................................................................. Sweep...................................................... - ........................ Operate elevators.............................................................. Organization...................................................................... 17.000 48.000 80.000 20.000 22.000 14.000 45.000 10.000 28.000 36.000 40.000 38.000 10.000 16.000 40.000 12.000 10.800 6.171 5.400 16.200 .110 .400 .980 .120 .160 .090 .460 .080 .260 .300 .300 .340 .080 .100 .240 .090 .040 .034 .039 .209 .388 .500 .735 .360 .436 .386 .613 .480 .557 .500 .450 .537 .480 .375 .360 .450 514.571 4.432 .517 .120 .080 Total _ ....... ___ ___ 1,111.11 1, 111. 11 555.55 972.29 1, 111. 11 370,37 352.94 125.00 75.00 300.00 272.73 428.57 133.33 600.00 214.29 166.67 150.00 157.90 600.00 375.00 150.00 500.00 555.55 972.29 .222 .331 .433 .774 1, 111. 11 37fi 37 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Inspect for and cut tacks.................................................. Emboss top facing............................................................. Tree, machine.................................................................... Sock linings..................................: .................................... Repair................................................................................ Dress.................................................................................. Brush edges....................................................................... Lace.................................................................................... Pack................................................................................... Inspect............................................................................... Back shoe work................................................................. Handle freight................................................................... S hip;.................................................................................. Sweep................................................................................. Organization...................................................................... Total_______________________________ Grand total _ ____ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . __ ______ ________ 24.000 16.000 184.000 22.000 72.000 32.000 28.000 45.000 32.400 5.400 21.600 10.800 6.171 10.800 .140 .500 .500 .260 .140 .300 .250 .018 .133 .092 .034 .175 .300 .300 .652 .382 .441 .417 .488 .300 .400 .463 .200 .369 .511 .331 .972 578.171 4.742 .492 5,947.588 46.570 .470 68.000 2.000 250.00 375.00 32.61 272.73 88.24 83.33 187.50 214.29 133.33 185.19 1,111.11 277.78 * 555.55 972.29 555.55 ^ . —Women’s Goodyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain, tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Selecting patterns for cutters.................... Sort and put up jobs.................................. Cut vamps and whole shoes, hand.......... Match marks................................................ Sort vamps, etc............................................ Mark vamps, etc......................................... Skive uppers.............................................. Skive toes..................................................... Cement tips.................................................. Fold tips........................................................ Perforate tips............................................... 40.563 55.556 473.340 50.926 375.000 18.519 101.852 13.889 13.889 23.148 23.148 $0,254 .787 7.889 .248 5.156 .122 .622 .068 .074 .123 .123 $0,376 .850 1.000 .292 .825 .395 .366 .292 .318 .318 .318 147.92 108.00 12.68 117.82 16.00 323.99 58.91 432.00 432.00 259.20 259.20 ESTABLISHMENT NO. U. 117 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923. B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. Women’s Goodyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift—Continued. E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. CUTTING DEPAETMENT—concluded. Cut rubber backs.............................................................. Cut blind eyelets.............................................................. Iron.................................................................................... Cut doublers........................................................ ^........... Cut linings, hand.-.......................................................... Cut tongue linings, hand................................................. Stamp linings.................................................................... Cut trimmings, hand...................................................... Sort trimmings.................................................................. Stamp trimmings.............................................................. Assemble........................................................................... Floor work............................ ; .......................................... Sweep..............._■............................................................... Organization...................................................................... 50.926 4.630 222.222 9.259 33.333 27.778 27.778 200.000 13.889 21.296 10.185 81.126 40.563 81.126 $0.371 .034 .926 .142 .569 .475 .116 1.167 .068 .096 .064 .535 .254 1.162 $0.438 .438 .250 .918 1.025 1.025 .250 .350 .292 .271 .374 .396 .376 .859 2,013.941 21.445 .639 .047 .278 .278 .278 1.153 .944 .161 .139 .694 .472 .278 .417 .369 .203 .075 .126 1.250 .389 .278 2.389 .417 .175 .175 .116 .381 .130 .211 .211 .254 .915 1.408 .305 .529 .400 .400 .498 .344 .500 .450 .511 .306 .514 .409 .520 .300 .271 .271 .450 .504 .400 .800 .450 .378 .378 .250 .411 .281 .312 .312 .376 .677 .521 1,881.909 14.610 .466 Outsoles: Cut.............................................................................. Grade.......................................................................... Sort.............................................................................. Rack............................................................................ Case............................................................................ General work.............................................................. 39.000 14.170 44.620 7.240 14.580 15.750 .519 .100 .502 .051 .156 .170 .798 .423 .675 .423 .642 .648 Total........................................................................ 135.360 1.498 .664 Insoles: Cut.............................................................................. Grade......................................................................... Sort.............................................................................. Rack............................................................................ Case............ ; .............................................................. General w ork............................................................. 38.880 10.500 58.770 2.620 14.580 12.350 .413 .038 .472 .023 .123 .061 *.637 .217 .482 .527 .506 .296 137.700 1.130 .492 Total, _ ..... _ . . ___ STITCHING DEPAETMENT. Assemble........................................................................... Close.................................................................................. Stay................................................................................... Bind tongues.................................................................... Make linings..................................................................... Sew on blind-eye stays..................................................... Cement quarters.................... .......................................... Cement vamps.................................................................. Fold, hand............................... ........................................ Fold vamps....................................................................... Double vamps.................................................................. Stitch tips......................................................................... Crease vamps.................................................................... Rub seams........................................................................ Trim linings...................................................................... Lay in for top stitchers.................................................... Top stitch............................. ........................................... Eyelet................................................................................ Trim threads..................................................................... Vam p................................................................................ Seam toes........................................................................... Bar.................................................................................... Clean................................................................................. Inspect............................................................................... Pack.................................................................................. Floor work......................................................................... Odd shoe w ork................................................................ Sweep.*..............: .............................................................. Machinist’s work............................................................. Organization...................................................................... T ota l 9.259 31.481 41.670 41.667 138.889 164.815 19.332 18.519 81.481 92.593 32.407 61. I ll 42.593 40.560 16.667 27.778 166.667 46.296 41.667 179.166 55.556 27.778 27. 778 27.778 55.556 27.778 , 40.563 40.563 40.563 81.126 162.252 117.82 1,295.90 27.00 648.02 • 180.00 216.00 216.00 30.00 432.00 281.74 589.10 73.96 147.92 73.96 648.02 190.59 143.99 142.00 43.20 36.40 310.37 323.99 73.64 64.80 185.15 98.18 140.87 147.93 359.99 216.00 36.00 129.60 144.00 33.49 108.00 216.00 216.00 216.00 108.00 216.00 147.92 147.92 147.92 73.96 36.98 SOLE-LEATHEE DEPAETMENT. Total ___ . . . i 153.85 423.43 134.47 828.73 411.52 380.95 154.32 571.43 102.09 2,290.08 411.52 485.83 118 TIME AND Lifeofi" COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT, TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTM ENT, AND OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T -C o n t in u e d . ^ . - —Women’s Goodyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp,.plain tipi, single sole, 4/8 leather beel base with 4/8 rubber top lift—Continued. J S s to b li s h m e n t N o . Department and operation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs (minutes). «f 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT— Concluded. * Heels: Cut, sort, etc., heel lifts..................... Build heels-.......................................... Tack rands........................................... 240.000 48.600 21.600 $2,000 .340 .200 $0,500 .420 .571 T o t a l ™ ............... — ..................... 309.600 2.540 .492 Counters: Cut........ ........................ ...................... .Sort.................................................. . . Skive............................ .................. . M o ld ................................................. Sort molded......................................... Pack...................................................... . Pit stock. .......................................... General w ork.......... ... ................... . 43.232 10.500 8.070 18.750 11.660 2.540 15.440 49.490 .474 .133 .078 .175 .108 .015 .124 .337 .658 .760 .580 .580 .556 .354 .482 .409 Total____ ....____________________ 159.682 1.444 .543 Box toes, leather1....................................... 113.788 1.033 .545 Stock fitting: Round insoles.................. .................. Stamp insoles...................................... Nip and wot insoles............................ Channel insoles................................... .Cement insoles.................................... Stick tips.......................................... . . Cut and crease canvas...................... Reenforce--------------------------------------Stitch insoles....................................... Roll and dip heels.............................. Seats on insoles............ ...................... Crown insoles...................................... Stamp outsoles.................................... Shank out............................................. Assemble.............................................. General work....................................... Organization..........._........................... 92.592 6.726 11.666 36.111 13.889 20.370 31.481 ?9 999. 17.593 18.519 13.889 6.726 16.978 24.074 40.563 40.563 1.019 .064 .097 .528 .111 .194 .306 .308 .250 .096 .082 .064 .153 .200 .254 .423 .660 . 570 .500 .877 .480 .573 .582 .832 .853 .312 .354 .570 .540 .498 .376 .626 ]■ 413.962 5.024 .728 1,270.092 12.669 .598. Tack insoles................................... Assemble for pull-over machine. Pull over, machine........................ Side last, machine........................ Operate bed machine................... Inspect............................................ Odd sboework................. ............. General work..................... ........... Organization................................. . 23.148 148.148 106.481 97.222 250.000 41.667 40.563 •81.126 40.563 .278 2.222 1.667 1.528 2.917 .474 .169 .528 .704 .720 .900 . 939 -.682 .250 .,391 1.041 Total..................................... 828.918 10.486 .759 24.074 44.440 31.481 83.340 52.780 47.220 26.852 48.148 65.741 29.630 20.370 39.315 55.556 28.704 .278 .444 .347 1.667 .528 .472 .222 .472 .384 .278 .306 .611 1.028 .273 .692 .600 .662 1.200 .600 .600 .496 .588 .350 .563 .900 .921 1.110 .681 Total.................................................. Total, sole-leather department. . . LASTING DEPARTMENT. .943 .700 25.00 123.46 285.71 138.79 571.43 743.49 320.00 514.58 2,362.20 388.60 121.24 64.80 892.06 514.32 166.15 432.00 294.55 190.50 270.00 341.06 323.90 432,00 892.06 353.40 249.23 147.92 147.92 m ao 40.50 56.35 m. 71 24.00 144.60 147.92 73.96 147.92 •BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Staple....................... Pull tacks................ Trim toes................. Goodyear welt........ Trim inseams___ _ Beat welts........ ....... Knock tacks............ Tack welts at seats Put in shanks_____ Fill bottoms_______ Cement bottoms... Lay soles.................. Round................. . Open channels........ 249.23 135.01 *•290.59 71.99 113.68 127.07 223.45 124.62 91.27 202.50 294.55 150.70 107.99 209.03 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several reprejaafcativeestahhshmeots. Seepp. 132-J40. ’ ESTABLISHMENT NO,' 4 4 . 119 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FAC TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 44 .—Women’s Goodyear welt, brown kid. five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). % Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Goodyear stitch................................................................ Feather out....................................................................... Rub down shanks............................................................. Cement channels............................................................... Lay channels..................................................................... Level.................................................................................. Inspect............................................................................... Nail seats.......................................................................... Trim heel seats.......... ....................................................... Stick heel nails_________ ___________________ _______ Put in heels....................................................................... Heel................................................................................... Cement heels and tops..................................................... Nail top pieces.................................................................. Trim heels............................................................... - ....... Breast................................................................................ Trim edges........................................................................ Joint................................................................................... General work........... ........................................................ Sweep................................................................................ Organization...................................................................... Total _ __ _ _____________________ __ 114.815 28.704 13.889 27.778 27.778 69.444 41.667 25.000 13.889 17.593 20.370 46.296 33.333 55.556 27.778 27.778 158.333 58.333 81.126 40.563 40.563 $2.361 .333 .194 .278 .278 .611 .347 .226 .167 .222 .208 .736 .191 .936 .694 .556 2.556 .694 .528 .254 .704 $1,234 .697 .840 .600 .600 .528 .500 .542 .720 .758 .614 .954 .344 1.011 1.500 1.200 .968 .714 .391 .376 1.041 1,568.737 20.389 .780 .389 .969 .800 .682 .844 .500 .600 1.036 .643 .776 .900 .312 .343 .343 .752 .554 .689 .900 .558 .819 .682 .529 .500 .270 .250 .250 52.26 209.03 432.00 216.00 216.00 86.40 144.00 240.00 432.00 341.05 294. 55 129.60 180.00 107.99 216.00 216.00 37.90 102.86 73.96 147.92 147.92 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels, first time....................................................... Scour breasts..................................................................... Set seats............................................................................. Set edges...........................................................................: Inspect.......... .................................................................... Size heels........................................................................ — Scour heels, second time.................................................. Dye heels......................... ................................ - ........... — Sand bottoms.................................................................... Buff__________________ ____________________________ Cut strings........................................................................ Bleach bottoms................................................................. Line heel breasts....... ....................................................... Stain bottoms....... ............................................................ Stripe........................................................................................ Burnish heels.................................................................... Polish bottoms.................................................................. Clean edges................... ................................................... Wheel bottoms..............- .................................................. Roll up wax on heels......................................................... Cut tacks........................................................................... Pull lasts___•..................................................................... Pull p ap ers................. ................................................... Stamp bottoms................................................................. Brush heels and edges....................................................... Odd shoe work.................................................................. Sweep................................................................................. Organization...................................................................... T ota l , _ ........ _ . . . . 24.074 33.333 .444 249.23 180.00 196.36 33.75 196.36 540.01 196.36 30.556 177.778 30. 556 11.Ill 30.556 19.444 53.704 27.778 5.556 58.333 25.926 62.037 24.074 34.259 23.148 18.519 37.037 14.815 19.444 13.889 25.000 20.370 13.889 40.563 40.563 81.126 .347 2.500 .255 .111 .528 .208 .694 .417 .289 .334 .148 .778 997.438 11.258 .677 25.926 27.778 13.889 21.296 87.037 263. $89 64.815 60.185 41.667 138.889 37.037 125.000 60.185 23.148 .108 .164 .093 .089 .363 .519 .519 .195 .894 .211 .534 .418 .133 .250 .354 .400 .250 .250 .669 .481 .518 .281 ..386 .341 .271 .417 .344 231.43 216.00 432.00 281.74 68.94 22.74 92.57 99.69 144.00 43.20 162.00 48.00 99.09 259.20 13.889 .079 .341 i* 432.00 .222 .394 .347 .172 .506 .168 .171 .116 .113 .085 .058 .225 .254 .986 .333 .376 .729 308. 58 111. 72 216.00 1,079.91 102.86 231.43 96. 72 249.23 175.14 259.20 323.99 162.00 405.00 308.58 432.00 240.00 294.55 432.00 147.92 147.92 73.96 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Sort shoes........................................................................... SoOk lining......................................................................... Emboss.............................................................................. Clean rubber tops......... ........................................... ........ Ink edges................................................................. ......... Tree, hand.................................................*..................... Stain............. ............... .................................................... Dress............................. .................................................... Ink heel seats..................................................................... Repair................................................................................ Lace................................................................................... Clean stitches.................................................................... Inspect.......................... ........................................ .......... Brush heels...................................................... ............ Mark b o x e s .....______. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ___ _ 120 TIME AND IiA&OR* COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION-Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 44 .—Women’s Goopyear welt, brown kid, five eyelet, lace oxford, circular vamp, plain tip, single sole, 4/8 leather heel base with 4/8 rubber top lift— Concluded. Time cost Labor cost Hourly of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. • wages. (minutes). Department and operation. * Number of pairs worked on per hour. TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Pftf»lr _ . Oddshoe work ^ Rwppp Opp.ratft filftvfttnrs r Ship Organization, . . . ....... _____ _ . . .. . . _____________ T o ta l....................................................................... Grand total E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 5 .— 32.407 40.563 40.563 81.126 202.815 40.563 1,442.667 10,003.702 $0,169 .254 .254 .507 1.634 ;493 $0,313 .376 .376 .375 .483 .729 11.654 .485 100.799 .605 185.15 147.92 147.92 73.96 29.58 147.92 Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Cut heel pieces....................................................................... Cut vamp linings, hand........................................................ Cut tongue linings, hand....................................................... Cut quarter linings, hand..................................................... Cut heel pads........................................................................... Stamp........................................................................................ Mark......................................................................................... Skive_______________________ _________________________ Perforate tips........................................................................... Stay quarters........................................................................... Fold tips................................................................................... Floor work..... .......................................................................... Sweep........................................................................................ Organization............................................................................ 500.000 27.273 200.000 20.000 30.000 30.000 105.000 60.000 50.000 25.000 70.000 30.000 40.000 25.000 109.091 13.637 81.818 Total............................................................................... 1,416.819 Cut outsides, hand................................................................. Selecting dies for cutters....................................................... $7,500 .131 2.496 .204 .252 .204 1.500 .540 .240 .192 .672 .240 .268 .120 .830 .077 1.591 17.057 $0,900 .288 .749 .612 .504 .408 .857 .540 .288 .461 .643 .480 .402 .288 .457 .339 1.167 12.00 220.00 30.00 300.00 200.00 200.00 57.14 100.00 120.00 240.00 95.71 200.00 150.00 240.00 55.00 439.98 73.33 .722 STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Openwork................................................................................ Count out parts...................................................................... Stay quarters........................................................................... Fold tips................................................................................... Cement vamps........................................................................ Sew across back...................................................................... Stitch tips_............................................................................... Paste vamp linings................................................................. Fold vamps.............................................................................. Close quarters............................... J....................................... Stay quarters........................................................................... Cement quarters and foxings............. .................................. Fold quarters........................................................................... Tape.......................................................................................... Stitch lace stay..........._........................................................... Close linings.......................... ................................................. Make linings............................................................................ Line tongues.................................................. ........................ Top stitch.............................. ............ .................................... Eyelet........................................................................................ Sort for top stitchers.............................................................. Sew across bottom of tongue .............................................. Sort for vampers and ink....................................................... Yamp......................................................................................... Sew in tongues......................................................................... Tack........................................................................................... Lace........................................................................................... Pack........................................................................................... Odd shoe work ..................................................................... Floor work............... ...................................... ........................ Sweep......................................................................................... Organization........................................................................ Total _________ ___________________________J 11.000 21.000 40.000 25.000 50.000 60.000 66.000 50.000 50.000 30.000 35.000 35.000 60.000 60.000 38.000 30.000 60.000 30.000 200.000 46.000 16.000 30.000 34.000 200.000 85.000 30.000 28.000 15.000 436.364 272.727 13.637 109.091 .072 .156 .268 .120 .240 .420 .660 .180 .420 .216 .240 .264 .600 .420 .360 .216 .480 .300 1.440 .360 .120 .180 .264 2.160 .600 .300 .264 .132 1.863 1.530 .077 1.545 .393 .446 .402 .288 . .288 .420 .600 . ...216 .504 .432 .411 .453 .600. .420 .568 .432 .480 .600 .432 .470 .450 .360 .466 .648 .424 .600 .566 .528 .256 .337 .339 .850 2,266.819 16.467 .436 545.46 285.72 150.00 240.00 120.00 100.00 90.91 120.00 120.00 200.00 171.43 171.43 100.00 100.00 .157.89 ■ 200.00 100.00 200.00 30.00 130.43 375.00 200.00 176.47 30.00 70. S9 200.00 214.29 400.00 13.75 22.00 439.98 55.00 121 ESTABLISHMENT N Q . 45. T IM E AN D LABOR COSTS IN THE M ANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y DISTRICT, D E P A RTM E N T, AN D OPERATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 6 .— Women’s Goodyear welt, whole quarter oxford, ,single sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top lift—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Outsoles, leather1____ ______________________________ Insoles, leather1____________________________________ Counters, leather1_________________________________ Box toes, leather1__________________________________ Hfifils, lp.flt.hAr, R /R 1 _______ __ __ 84. Ill 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 $0,892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 $0,637 .581 .496 .545 .461 Stock fitting: Wet and split outsole............................................... Separate and tie.......................................................... Assemble welt insoles................................................ Round insoles............................................................. Stamp insole sizes....................................................... Channel insoles.......................................................... Scour insoles.............................................................. Wet insoles and turn lips.......................................... Sort and tie insoles....... ................... ......................... Match outsoles and insoles........................................ Floor work.................................................................. Sweep.......................................................................... Organization............... ............................................... 10.000 10.000 20.000 25.000 10.000 45.000 10.000 45.000 20.000 10.000 136.364 13. 637 27.273 .120 .120 .228 .288 .132 .540 .108 .324 .228 .132 .578 .082 .364 .720 .720 .684 .691 .792 .720 .648 .432 .684 .792 .254 .361 .801 Total _____ .... ____ 382.274 3.304 .519 Total, sole-leather department_____________ 1,272.671 10.865 .512 45.000 45.000 130.000 130.000 130.000 260.000 27.273 13. 637 27.273 54.545 .480 .420 1.560 1.860 1.860 3.720 .207 .077 .237 .773 .640 .560 .720 .858 .858 .859 .455 .339 .521 .850 862.728 11.194 .779 600.00 600.00 300.00 240.00 600.00 . 133.33 600.00 133.33 300.00 600.00 44.00 439.98 220.00 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Prepare for laster............................................................... Tack insoles and oil lasts.................................................. Assemble........................................................................... Pull over, machine......... ....... ........................................ Side last, machine............................................................ Operate bed machine........................................................ Odd shoe work.................................................................. Sweep................................................................................ General work.................................................................... Organization..................................................................... Total __ __ __ _ ________ BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. Trim uppers...................................................................... Staple uppers.................................................................... Pull inseam tacks...................... ...................................... Wet, groove, and inseam (Goodyear)............................. Pull insole tacks.................................................. ............ Trim inseams.................................................................... Make and ta^k joints....................................................... Beat, sort, and^ay shanks...... ........................................ Tack shanks sind fill bottoms.......................................... Cement bottoms............................................................... Cement soles . ................................................................... Mold soles and tack seats...............................................\ 133.33 133.33 46.15 46.15 46.15 23.08 220.00 439.98 220.00 110.00 30.000 .300 .600 200.00 30.000 .276 .552 200.00 35.000 .384 .658 171.43 120.000 .900 50.00 1.800 .204 .408 200.00 30.000 1.029 35.000 .600 171.43 .492 .984 30.000 200.00 45.000 .640 133.33 .480 45.000 .640 133.33 .480 400.00 15.000 .720 .180 .216 .648 300.00 20.000 .732 100.00 60.000 .732 100.00 1.008 60.000 1.008 Rough round and channel............................................... 200.00 .720 30.000 .360 Turn channels................................................................... 200.00 .420 .840 30.000 Reduce shanks.................................................................. 50.00 .900 Goodyear stitch................................................................. 120.000 1.800 133.33 .396 .528 Cement and lay channels................................................ 45.000 90.91 .709 66.000 .780 Level.................................................................................. 157.89 .396 .625 38.000 Pull lasts........................................................................... 200.00 30.000 .276 .552 Nail seats........................................................................... 400.00 .144 .576 15.000 Round seats...................................................................... 133.33 .640 45.000 .480 Bre.ak shanks.................................................................... 300.00 20.000 .180 .540 Mold shanks..................................................................... 133.33 .480 .640 45.000 Staple and beat toes.......................................................... .341 ..188 55.00 109.091 Feed heels........................................................................ .864 .691 80.00 75.000 Heel................................................................................... . 400.00 .480 15.000 .120 Cement top lifts................................................................ 80.00 .816 .653 75.000 Chalk lasts and second lasting......................................... .691 80.00 .864 Trim heels......................................................................... 75.000 1These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several represent ative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 122 TIME AND LAfeOB COSTS— MID-WESTERN DISTRICT, T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1928, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPER ATIO N —Continued. M I D - W B S T E B N B I S T R I C T — Continued. E s ta b lis h e m e to t N o . 15.—Women’s Goodyear welt, whole garter oxford, tingle sole, 8/8 leather heel with rubber top Kft—Continued. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. bottoming dbpartment—concluded. Breast................... ......... - ....................- ................... .............. Sand top lifts and breasts..............................1..................... Feather................................................. - ................................. Trim edges_______________ __________ — .......................... Organization............................................................................ Total........ _ ________________________________ Hourly wages. 45.000 30.000 25.000 15a 000 27.273 $0,420 ,240 .276 2.100 .409 $0,560 1,665.364 19.314 .696 50.006 210.000 46000 46000 30.000 46 000 20.000 55.000 30.000 30.000 40.000 60.000 60.000 45.000 35.000 20.000 27.273 13.637 54.545 .540 2.580 .276 .396 .240 .360 .144 .420 .480 .480 .300 .660 .456 .300 .144 .201 .■077 .745 .648 .737 .414 .594 .480 .540 .432 .458 .960 .960 .450 .660 .660 .514 .432 .442 .339 .820 900.455 9.459 .630 25.000 30.000 30.000 240.000 30.000 60.000 40.000 40.000 30.000 45.600 13.637 54.545 54.545 300.000 54.545 .180 .180 .180 .409 1.406 .591 .432 .360 .360 .600 .300 .600 .486 .360 .384 .608 .339 .550 .450 .281 .650 Number of pairs worked on per hour. 133.33 .480 200.90 .662 .840 .900 240.90 40.00 220.00 FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Scour heels...................................................................... ........ Set edges and fudge, first and second tim es........- .......... Ink edges..................................................................... .......... . Emery heels................................................................ - .......... Prime, first time........................................................ - .......... Slick heels.................................................................... - .......... Bevel heel edges— ................................................... ............ Ink heels and heel seats............................................ - .......... Huff bottom............................................................................ Ntomkeag............................... - ................................. ............ Ink bottoms.and shanks.......................................... ............ Finish heels...................—.......................................... ............ Finish bottoms and shanks................. .................. ........... Clean brush___ _______________________________________ Brush yarn............................................................................... Stamp bottoms....................... -•..................................... ........ Odd shoe work....................................................................... Sweep.........- ................... - .......................................... ........... Organization__________________________________________ Total _ __________________________________ .M O .668 120.00 28.57 150.00 150.00 200.00 150.00 300.00 109.09 200.00 200.00 150; 00 100.00 100.00 133.33 171.43 300.00 220.00 439.98 110.00 TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. E m b o ss...,___________ ____ _________ ________________ Sock lining.................................................................... ......... Clean and tree, hand............. .............................................. Inspect, clip a n d reverse...................................... ............. Repair uppers................ ...........................- ........ - ........ ......... Dress single and double___________ ____________ ______ Lace.......................................................................................... Brush heel edges and bottoms.............................................. Pack and stamp............ .................... ..................... ............. Sweep............................. ............................................... ........ Ship.................................................................................. ........ Operate elevators __________ __ T General work................. , .......... ............................................ Organization................... ........................................................ 2.400 1.300 .800 .324 .240 .192 .456 .-077 .500 Total............................................................................... 1,047.272 9.235 .529 Grand total 9,432.128 93.591 .595 i~ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . ir - - ^ T *240.00 20600 200.00 25.00 200.90 100.90 150.00 150.00 200.00 133.33 439.98 110.00 110.00 20.90 110.90 ' 1 1 " 4 6 — Women's McKay, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift. CUTTING DEPARTMENT. Selecting dies lor cutters..,________ _ __ ____________ Cut outsides, hand............................... ................................. Sort outsides, stamp, mark, sort, assemble linings and trimmings _ . nnT , __ Skive uppers.......................................................................... . Mark quarters....................................................................... Perforate tips, etc............... ................. ................................ Mark for t i p s ......................................... .......... ................... Cut linings, hand.................................................................. Stamp outsides..... ............ ...................... ................... .......... Floor work............................................................................... Sweep.................................... ..................................... ............ Organization................................... ......................................... 381.818 600.960 $0,914 6.846 $0,144 .684 190.900 75.000 30.900 30.900 30.000 240.900 50.000 545.454 16.936 193.936 2.280 .792 .216 .240 .240 2.484 .312 .091 2.000 .720 .634 .432 .480 .480 .621 .374 .232 .340 .733 Total. . . . . . . . . . . . ____ ____. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ____ 2,351.944 16.279 *415 2.106 15.71 10.90 31.58 80.90 m oo 200.00 200.00 25.00 120.00 11.00 374.16 36.67 ESTABLISHMENT NO. 46, 123 TIM E AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY DISTRICT, DEPARTMENT, AND OPE RATION—Continued. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T —Continued. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 6 .— Women’s McKay, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Continued. Department and operation. Time cost cost of 100 pairs ofLabor 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. STITCHING DEPARTMENT. Cement uppers____ . T _ ________ Paste staysand quarters__________________________ Fold vamps, machine ......... ...... Fold quarters, machine _ . ........ Fold tips, machine . . . . . . r .......... _ _ _ Paste vamp linings TT _ _____ Close quarters .... . __ Stay quarters___________________________________ Stitch*lace stays_________________________________ Sfcitch tips ... _ _______ ______ dope linings ........... M afra linings, etc _ . . __ Top stitch ~ , , . . . . ._ . .... . _ Eyelet . _ ___ _ . _ _ _ _ Tack hacks r ... _ ____ Sort ff>r vampers ^ Vamp * __ Seam toes___ Tape tongues . _ T_ __ Tack fronts._. _ r_ , T Lace. _ , , , _ __r __ Pack and inspect _ , _ _ . __ Odd shoo work . Floor work Sweep _ ...... Machinist’s work _ Organization _ . Total _ _ ____________ 60.000 45.000 50.000 60.000 25.000 50.000 30.000 30.000 75.003 70.000 30.000 65.000 $0,384 .192 .360 .480 .180 .144 .216 .216 .540 .600 .180 .600 50.000 60.000 30.000 .300 .360 .216 1.920 .600 60.000 30.000 30.000 28.000 60.000 54.545 218.182 9.636 54.545 163.636 .216 .216 .300 .236 1.035 .055 .600 1.945 $0,384 .256 .432 .480 .432 .173 .432 .432 .432 .514 .360 .554 .343 .360 .360 .432 .549 .600 .240 .432 .463 .300 .260 .285 .342 .660 .713 1,858.547 13.411 .433 84.111 110.404 158.915 113.788 423.179 .892 1.069 1.314 1.033 3.253 .637 .581 .496 .545 .461 45.000 .400 21.600 45.000 50.000 21.600 11. 520 25.920 50.000 30.000 16.036 54.545 54.545 .180 .360 .480 .180 .096 .216 .420 .240 .091 .449 .509 .533 .600 .500 .480 .576 .560 .500 .500 .504 .480 .340 .494 .560 210.000 210.000 1.200 .120 100.00 133.33 120.00 100.00 240.00 120.00 200.00 200.00 80.00 85.71 200.00 92.31 28. 57 120.00 100.00 200.00 28.57 100.00 200.00 200.00 214.29 100.00 110.00 27.50 622/67 110.00 36.67 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Opt-soles, leather I . TrsoIcs, leather 1. ._ __________ ______ Counters, leather l . .. . Bot toes, leather l ,. .. . _ . . .. Heels, leather, 8/81 ______ _ _ Stock fitting: Wet, round, sj^lit, and assemble. Round flfnr! tie insoles . . Mark sizes, insoles and mitsoles Channel mitsoles.._ . _ _ ______ Lay welts and cement soles . _ _. Reduce shanks Mold outsoles _ ___ . .. T . . Turn ontsnie channels .... _ Fairstitoh outsoles, black and brown fudge Ink and tie outsoles, flesh outsoles___ ___________ Sweep . __ . . . ... General work .. _ Organization _ _ Total __r____________T___________ Total, sole-leather department ...... 20.000 .200 445.766 3.821 .514 1,346.163 11.382 .507 45.000 45.000 130.000 130.000 130.000 260.000 60.000 45.000 45.000 175.000 .360 .240 .900 1.320 1.320 2.400 .240 .180 .360 1.080 .480 .320 .415 .609 .609 .554 .240 .240 .480 .370 133.33 300.00 277.80 133.33 120.00 277.80 520.83 231.48 120.00 200.00 110.00 110.00 374.16 LASTING DEPARTMENT. Oet UP lasts, match uppers and tongues _ _ _ Took insoles on lasts and chalk lasts . __ Assemble . . . . ... . . . . _ rir Pull over and hox toes, machine __ _ _ T Ride last, machine . Opiate bed machine . ,. r Grind toes . _ ... . . . Pull tacks ___ Fill shanks and bottoms. __ Tack outsoles and toes................................................... 133.33 133.33 46.15 46.15 46.15 23.08 100.00 133.33 133.33 34.29 1 These are purchased. The average shown here was drawn from details obtained from several repre sentative establishments. See pp. 132-140. 124 t im e and labor costs— MID-WESTERN d is t r ic t . T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y D IST R IC T , D E P A R T M E N T , A N D OPERATION— Concluded. M I D - W E S T E R N D I S T R I C T — Concluded. E s t a b l i s h m e n t N o . 4 6 .— Women’s McKay, whole quarter oxford, single sole, 8/8 leather heel base with rubber top lift—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and operation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. LASTING DEPARTMENT—concluded. Pull lasts ,' _ Odd shoft work ftwep.p ’ Organization __ _ - __ . _ _ -T_ _ Total____ 1__________________________________ 38.000 54.545 9.636 54.545 $0,264 .316 .055 .727 $0,417 .348 .342 .800 1,221.726 9.762 .479 75.000 30.000 35.000 35.000 70.000 28.800 45.000 50.000 40.000 45.000 15.000 109.091 75.000 20.000 135.000 12.836 54.545 .720 .180 .144 .156 .480 .192 .600 .660 .264 .396 .144 .315 .984 .240 1.380 .073 .564 .576 .360 .247 .267 .411 .400 .800 .792 .396 .528 .576 .173 .787 .720 .613 .341 .620 875.272 7.492 .514 40.000 45.000 165.000 25.000 30.000 30.000 25.000 50.000 45.000 40.000 25.000 30.000 30.000 40.000 12.836 54.545 .312 .420 1.680 .360 .396 .396 .360 .516 .516 .540 .360 .216 .264 .240 .073 .564 .468 .560 .611 .864 .792 ;792 .864 .619 ' .688 .810 .864 .432 .528 .360 .341 .620 *687.381 7.213 .630 25.000 51.432 88.620 225.000 32.000 40.000 86.400 30.857 40.000 23.745 109.091 12.836 54.545 .144 .300 .591 1.620 .240 .480 .576 .180 .300 .119 1.000 .073 .455 .346 .350 .400 .432 .450 .720 .400 .350 .450 .301 .550 .341 .501 157.89 110.00 622.66 110.00 BOTTOMING DEPARTMENT. i i i i i i MeEAy sew arid wet up _ ... _ Nail seats _ _ ___ ___ Cement channels. _______ __ _ ___ T;ay channels _ Rott and level ‘ ........ _. _. Piece heels and flex............................................................ TfiTrt herfs . _ . Breast __ _ _._ ___ Last^ second time . . . Tiftfift_ r Feed heeler T_ _ _ Heel. _ _ _ _ _ . _ ______ Feather. _ — ___ _ ______ Trim edges _ . ........ . Sweep _ Organization Total ___ _________________ 80.00 200.00 171.43 171.43 85.71 208.33 133.33 120.00 15a 00 133.3& 400.00 55.00 8a 00 300.00 44.44 476.44 110.00 _ . FINISHING DEPARTMENT. Reonr and knife breasts . . . _ Scoiir heels _ __ _ Set edges _ 1 _ __ _ _____ __ _ __. _ Fiidge or wheel Sand bottoms .. _ _ ... _ _ ....... Nanmkeag Emery heels_______________________________________ Edge heels, emery and ink breasts __. . Finish heels Finish bottoms _ _ __ ______ ____ _. _. Clean iippers__ _ ______ Brush yarn _ _ _ Pull and sort lasts _ Slick heels __ _ _ _ __ ___ _ _ _________ _ Sweep _ __ . . . ___ __ Organization. _ _______ _ _r _„ Total _ _ ...... _ _ _____ • TREEING AND PACKING DEPARTMENT. Bort__ __ _ _ Sock lining _ ___ _______________ _ . Repair patent leather _ Iron and clean, hand Brush yarn ____ __ _ .. _ _ Inspect ... __ _ _ _ _ __ Dress_____________________________________________ Lace _ _ Pack _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ ___ _ _ Odd shoe work ____ _ . _ ____ _ __ _ ShipSweep _ _ ___ Organization ____ ..... ..._. _ . _. _ ...... Total _ Grand total __ _ _ __________ ____ ... ... 819.526 6.079 .445 9,150.559 71.618 .470 15a oo 133.33 36.36 240.00 200.00 200.00 240.00 120.00 133.33 150.00 240.00 200.00 200.00 150.00 467.44 m oo 24a 00 116.66 67.70 ' 26.67 187.50 150.00 . 69.45 194.45 150.00 252.69 55.00 467.44 110.00 COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND DEPARTMENTS. 125 SELECTED OPERATIONS AND DEPARTMENTS, BY ESTABLISHMENTS. The first of the following tables presents, by establishments, time and labor costs for work at each of 17 selected operations for each kind of shoe (men’s and women’s), for each process (welt and McKay), and for high shoes and low shoes. The second table presents time and labor costs for each depart ment and for the establishment as a whole, covering all operations in all departments. 84791°—24f----- 9 126 C ^ T -^ E t J & j i E D ' O PER ATIO N S A N D D E P A R T M E N T S. T IM E A N D LABOR C 0 8T S IN M AN U F A C T U R IN G 106 PAIRS O F SH O ES. 1933, Estab lish ment No. Cut vamp and whole shoe, machine. Out vamp and whole shoe, hand. Time cost (minutes) Time cost (minutes) Labor cost. Labor cost. Eyelet. Stitch tips. Time cost (minutes) Labor cost. Vamp. Time Time Labor cost cost . (minutes) cost. (minutes) Labor cost. M EN’ S G O O D Y EAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES. 812.600 750.000 1,000.000 325.000 270.000 480.208 $4,460 3.310 6.483 400.000 273.333 300.000 6.380 4.267 3.367 500.000 402.000 6.563 4.680 $9,350 11.500 14.167 44.000 90.000 46.875 41. 670 93.000 43.333 66.400 50.000 69.792 41.146 50.000 $0,292 .585 .441 .496 1.520 .417 .350 .425 1.053 .417 .220 28.000 39.000 26.042 33.330 31.000 43.333 23.000 69.583 38.542 26.042 48.000 $0,282 .210 .281 .544 .480 .333 .200 .604 .729 .375 .230 323.000 360.000 265. 625 291. 670 250.000 258.333 125.000 264.000 375.000 280.208 260.000 $2,910 3.310 2.948 3.674 4.100 3.417 1.585 3.667 5.054 2.708 1.800 $0,310 .394 250.000 244.556 $3.131 3.261 $a282 .257 .146 323.000 182.000 141.667 $2.910 2.207 1.063 180.000 340.000 270.000 262.000 119.444 134.259 145.518 395.833 120.822 179.166 $2.750 4.550 1.600 2.100 2.215 1.917 1.500 3.750 1.470 2.389 MEN’S GOODYEAR WELT LOW SHOES • 10 21 604.167 $8,542 584.848 $7,895 62.500 80.303 $0,563 .974 33.333 29.545 MEN’S M cKAY HIGH SHOES. 15 19 25 325.000 46& 000 202.000 $4,460 6.439 2.013 44.000 44.000 56.250 $0,292 .343 ,.271 28.000 42.000 18.750 WOMEN’S GOODYEAR WELT LOW SHOES. 5 6 7 11 23 26 35 40 41 44 45 400.000 480.000 720.000 400.000 416.667 $8,200 7.000 6.000 4.050 5.667 313.818 531.250 495.000 473.340 500.000 3.350 8.500 8.000 7.889 7.500 319.444 $5,500 95.000 $1,000 58.000 52.778 60.185 54.136 87.500 61. Ill .360 .319 .542 .300 .792 30.000 35.000 40.000 52.000 27.778 26.852 22.873 62.500 $0,333 .400 .220 .360 .333 .168 .190 .521 .417 46.296 .389 1 ! 1 ! | i 1 i ! | ............... 1 WOMEN’S GOODYEAR WELT HIGH SHOES. 18 22 776.669 600.000 $14.670 10.500 57.000 60.000 $0,770 .660 81.000 36.000 $0.810 .500 370.286 540.000 $4,320 5.310 $1,680 3.000 3.650 4.861 3.056 1.444 1.917 1.667 4.000 2.000 2.750 1.500 1.920 $2,750 WOMEN’S M cKAY LOW SHOES. 12 14 16 17 20 24 27 29 31 32 36 39 » 46 337.000 360.000 468.000 458.333 416.667 $3,540 5.000 7.250 7.639 7.500 450.000 381.944 8.375 6.250 313.818 600.000 3.350 6.840 263.8S9 207.407 182.292 $1.794 3.398 2.375 222.220 4.583 50.000 $0,300 59.000 $0,390 75.000 41.667 .700 .522 44.000 .400 60.185 45.312 .542 .333 55.556 26.852 31.250 .250 .168 .250 69.440 5*135 70.000 .528 .300 .600 41.670 22.873 50.000 .917 .190 .300 224.000 360.000 300.000 263.889 194.444 138.889 134.259 160.417 391.000 184. 611 208.330 145.513 210.000 $0,560 190.000 WOMEN’S M cKAY HIGH SHOES. 13 467.000 $7,780 100.000 $0,835 ea 000 COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND* DEPARTMENTS, BY SELECTED OPERATIONS, K IN D Channel outsole and insole. Round outsole and insole. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. OF SHOE, A N D ESTABLISH M EN T. Operate bed machine. Pull-over, machine. Time cost (minutes). 127 Labor cost. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. Estab lish ment No. M EN ’ S G O O D Y EAR W E L T H IG H SHOES* 11.650 11.000 16.667 20.000 15.000 12.500 $0,115 .275 .143 .262 .190 .167 .41.471 ai. 250 26.042 11.000 .504 .267 .208 .090 $0,323 .620 .450 .450 .400 .375 .283 .720 .450 .284 .240 34.200 35.000 19.792 33.330 26.000 25.000 24.000 54.568 33.333 26.042 25.000 116.000 128.700 125.000 104.170 80.000 108.333 £3.000 125.000 98.958 109.375 98.000 $1.210 1.930 1.587 1.723 1.600 1.500 1.058 2.167 1.563 1.667 1.080 240.000 270.000 383.333 375.000 192.000 265.000 200.000 425.000 427.083 302.083 300.000 $2.500 4.130 -4.820 4.877 3.500 3.750 .2.583 <6.500 4.879 3.042 2.960 1 2 3 4 8 9 28 30 33 34 38 387.500 243.939 $4,225 4.875 10 21 195.000 $2,000 208.333 2.000 15 19 25 $3,583 3.700 1.250 2.040 3.194 2.167 2.520 4.000 3.660 2.917 3.720 5 6 7 11 23 26 35 40 41 44 45 270.000 165.000 $3,870 3.880 18 22 180.000 150.000 256.000 241.667 $1,860 2.750 4.000 3.139 166.667 161. Ill 148.437 240.000 278.783 1.722 1.175 2.500 4.005 3.194 142.095 260.000 2.220 2.400 12 14 16 17 20 24 27 29 31 32 38 39 46 M EN ’ S G O O D Y EAR W E LT L O W S H O ES . 33.333 $0,342 $0,450 .450 37.500 34.848 116.667 87.879 $1.563 1.725 M EN ’S M e K A Y H IG H SH O ES. 18. 550 $0.157 16.458 .172 $0,146 .276 .167 16.800 16.000 16.667 92.000 100.000 67.917 $0.959 1.128 .625 W O M E N ’S GOO D YEAR W E L T L O W SH O ES. 27.500 $0,225 18.000 13.889 27.778 28.422 33.333 32.000 92.592 25.000 .150 .155 .231 .180 .313 .383 1.019 .288 40.000 40.000 30.000 35.000 33.333 32. 407 58.074 55.556 40.000 36. I ll $0.669 .450 .238 .330 .450 .366 .370 .579 .360 .528 90.000 120.000 120.000 106.000 111. Ill 111. Ill 71.964 $1,583 1.850 1.250 1.080 1.694 1.350 .900 80.000 106.481 130.000* 1.830 1.667 1.860 180.000 180.000 120.000 200.000 -244.444 111. Ill 223. 938 375.000 240.000 250.000 260.000 W O M EN ’ S G O O D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES. 23.000 25.000 $0,295 .300 $0,880 .670 45.000 45.000 *860.000 2 540.000 i.$10.890 2 10.800 W O M EN ’S M lK A Y L O W SH O ES. 18.000 30.000 18.500 14.584 19.444 22.222 23.149 $0,150 .250 .230 .167 .300 .135 .195 26.000 27.778 26.385 16.098 20.000 .188 .250 .266 .130 .200 22.000 35.000 15.000 15.681 25.000 12.500 37.037 28.263 40.000 2 33.333 41.670 22.979 45.000 $0:195 .330 .210 .222 .419 .083 .315 .319 .625 ».339 .362 .180 .360 71.000 90.000 118.000 100.000 100.000 61. Ill 111. Ill 78.125 100.000 87.500 69.440 56.727 130.000 $0,750 1.800 1.850 1.389 1.500 .583 1.100 1.083 1.800 1.389 1.333 .740 1.320 W OM EN’ S M e K A Y H IG H SH O ES. 1290.090 *$4,590 ------------------ <! *Hand work. * Indudes side lasting. 1 Includes stamping* COST— SELECTED 128 o p e r a t io n s and departm ents, T IM E A N D L ABO R COSTS IN M ANUFACTURING* 100 PAIRS OF SHOES, 1923, B Y ctt: 1" Welt, Goodyear. Estab> lic KIlSD ment. Time cost Labor No. (minutes). cost. Rough, round. Time cost (minutes). Stitch, Goodyear. Labor cost. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. Sew, McKay. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. M EN ’ S G O O D Y E A R W E L T H IG H SH O ES. ' 87.000 70.000 133.333 125.000 74 000 106.067 71.383 93.833 151.042 71.875 60.000 $1.182 1.585 2.250 2.475 1.600 2.083 1.100 2.150 2.475 1.813 .840 60.000 70.000 46.354 58.330 64000 54.167 50.000 53.250 62.500 43.229 48.000 $0,688 1.170 1.125 1.200 1.250 1.083 .692 1.220 1.200 1.014 .660 172.500 125.000 97.396 166.670 137.000 126.667 83.000 173.303 131.250 123.438 120.000 $1.915 2.135 2.550 2.925 2.250 2.292 1.567 3.250 2.925 2.375 1.480 ' M EN ’ S G O O D Y E A R W E L T L O W SH O ES. 125.000 98.485 10 21 $2,475 2.250 83.333 75.758 $1,200 1.125 208.333 159.091 $2,925 2.625 M EN’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES. 64.200 63.000 74 583 $0,667 .919 .635 W O M E N ’ S G O O D Y E A R W E L T L O W SH O ES. 90.000 120.000 120.000 135.000 66.667 179. Ill 77.418 160.417 120.000 83.340 120.000 $2,708 2.250 1.000 1.380 1.667 2.000 1.500 3.750 2.230 1.667 -1.800 35.000 55.000 sa 000 58.000 47.222 30.556 42.961 145.833 69.000 55.556 60.000 $1,200 1.250 .600 .600 1.000 .292 .680 1.594 1.230 1.028 1.008 135.000 130.000 190.000 161.000 111. Ill 107.407 151.578 281.250 158.000 114 815 120.000 $3,000 2.400 1.650 1.650 2.083 1.750 2.000 3.125 2.370 2.361 1.800 ! 1 W O M E N ’ S G O O D Y EAR W E LT H IG H SH O ES. 18 22 136.000 120.000 $2,920 2.700 78.000 45.000 $1,300 1.200 148.000 135.000 $3,240 3.300 W O M E N ’ S M cK A Y L O W SH O ES. • 31.250 $0,417 140.625 $1.667 57.000 60.000 95.000 69.444 100.000. 38.889 87.968 76.562 120.000 87.083 55.560 68.966 75.000 $0,600 810 1.500 .972 2.000 .472 .641 .750 2.000 .900 .917 .770 .720 120.000 $1,250 W O M EN ’ S M cK A Y H IG H SH O ES. COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND DEPARTMENTS, 129 SELECTED OPERATIONS, K IN D OF SHOES, A N D E ST A B L IS H M E N T —Concluded. Trim or shave heels. Time cost (minutes) Labor cost. Trim edges. Time cost (minutes). Set edges. Labor cost. Time cost (minutes). . Labor cost. Tree. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. Establishment. No. M EN ’ S GOO D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES. 34.200 37.000 30.208 33.330 40.000 41.667 27.783 58.333 46.875 50.000 27.000 $0,386 .620 .900 .733 .750 .750 .300 1.550 .713 .639 .280 115.000 160.000 135.417 133.330 137.000 130.000 142.767 241.667 177.083 166.667 80.000 $1,500 2.690 3.075 3.075 2.500 2.625 2.017 3.600 3.075 2.625 .980 123.500 141.000 223.958 187.500 133.000 129.167 74.000 196.250 187.500 187.500 80.000 $1,386 2.690 3.075 3.075 2.000 1.683 .770 3.270 ' 3.075 2.542 .980 178.000 . $1,540 195.000 1.340 3.114 298.958 395.830 5.000 41.500 4 96.000 218.333. 2.500 * 142.700 6 1.733 411.417 5.000 375.000 4.950 1.917 156.250 2 .0 0 0 184.000 2 3 4 8 9 28 30 33 34 38 ,562.500 636.364. $5,830 6.205 10 21 $ 1 7 8 ,0 0 0 $1,540 * 1.472 *1.083 15 19 25 $4,020 1.500 2.500 *1.830 .944 2.500 1.850 3.000 4 1.250 2.944 2.400 5 6 7 11 23 26 35 40 41 44 45 303.750 $4,050 18 22 *144.000 230.000 143.000 156.944 333.333 144.444 189.815 286.979 288.000 296.333 168.000 156.338 4 225.000 *$1,200 2.250 1.600 3.194 7.000 .833 1.450 2.083 2.500 3.556 1.750 1.850 <1.620 12 14 16 17 20 24 27 29 31 32 36 39 46 4 58.000 <$0,900 13 1 M E N ’S GO O D Y E A R W E LT L (>W SH O ES . 62.500 46.970 $0,900 .900 166.667 163.636 $3,075 3.075 166.667 168.182 $3,075 3.075 M EN ’ S M cK A Y H IG H SH O ES. 30.000 37.000 26.667 $0,313 .441 .250 100.000 148.000 93.750 $1,000 1.625 .917 6 8 .0 0 0 112.000 40.833 $0,709 1.349 .313 * 112.000 *62.500 W O M E N ’ S GOODYEIAR W E L T LO W SH O ES . 25.000 5 0 .0 0 0 60.000 36.000 27.778 17.593 55.374 96.667 60.000 27.778 75.000 $0,875 1.000 .567 .330 .694 .244 .450 1.625 .990 .694 .864 150.000 160.000 150.000 160.000 130.556 171 .2 9 6 235.470 200.000 170.000 158.333 150.000 $3,000 2.750 1.500 1.620 2.479 1.784 1.580 2 .5 0 0 2.720 2.556 2.100 140.000 210.000 240.000 162.000 155.556 203.704 237.540 333.333 *180.000 177.778 210.000 $2,750 3.500 1.900 1.650 2.479 2.476 1.580 3.750 *3.950 2.500 2.580 270.000 180.000 180.000 *220.000 97.222 138.889 156.336 360.000 4 64.660 263.889 240.000 W O M E N ’ S G O O D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES. ! 63.000 45.000 $1.530 .830 170.000 345.000 $4,090 3.630 235.000 120.000 $4,030 2.790 W O M E N ’ S M cK A Y L O W SH O ES. 37.000 $0,330 89.000 50.000 41.667 26.389 29.630 45.312 1.400 .417 1.028 .278 .360 .500 93.056 41.670 53.959 50.000 1.750 .583 .410 .660 140.000 60.000 173.000 144.444 136. I ll 69.444 164.815 95.312 240.000 137.500 111. 110 76.396 135.000 $1,470 1.250 2.400 1.833 2.333 .694 1.488 1.250 3.699 2.139 1.389 .910 1.380 94.000 120.000 162.000 125.000 150.000 116.667 78.704 88.021 270.000 111. Ill 69.450 117.947 165.000 $0,990 1.620 2.550 1.667 2.625 .917 .683 1.250 3.656 1.575 1.306 1.540 1.680 WO£MEN’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES . 42.000 $0,630 * Ironing. 74.000 $1,050 60.000 * Machine operation. $1,050 • Includes wheeling. cm ?— m&Mwm opm&Tims and w m s t i s . T IM E ANiD L A B O R . COSTS IN M A N * J F A C T U $ IN 0 add BA IR S OF SHOES, Es tate lisbme»t No. Cutting department. Time cost , (minutes). Labor cost. Stitching department. Time cost (minutes). Labor •ost. Sole-leather depart ment. Time cost (minutes?). Labor cost. Lasting department. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. M EN ’ S G O O D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O ES. 1 2 3 4 8 9 28 : 30 33 34 38 38.503 10.906 10.891 18.218 21.446 ML899 ,9.130 19. 695 22.333 ,13.063 8.301 896.490 1,333.162. 919.125 1,744.384 1,920.090. 877.631 975.7841,442.734 1,823.559 1,154.680 1,033.071 1,554.936 3,578.624 AD11-883 1,-808.403 • % 193.090 1,743.712 1,360.974 2,867.187» 2,113.853 1,879.258 1,695.871 $10,638 22.566 17.030 •18.224 25.672 16.305 10.760 26.728 23.062 .17.075 8.764 -810.290 1,:047.812 -.910.992 <936.851. 1,828.950 .1,054.576 ;1,;026.150. 1,098.452 1,071.480. 1,045.470 505.962 $6,928 11.272 8.740 8.328 12.935 9.481 9.069 11.736 9.625 8.160 4.395 679.420 1,084.424 1,143.749 1,001.330 676.090 841.546 593.668 1,307.933 1,383.578. 802.249 684.771 $6.562 13.276 12.932 13.094 ia966 11.397 6.752 18.738 14. I ll 9.313 6.642 1,258.334 854.243 $14,848 12.995 692.270 707.375 818.803 $0,483 .6.800 6.726 =578.500 905.000 56a 000 845.000 776.632 576.292 1,302.820 1,912.159 1,415.410 828.918 862.728 $11,472 14.400 5.000 7.420 9.892 7.300 11.344 20.517 15.774 ia486 11.194 $18,589 12.485; 1,190.858 782.641 $15. 621 16.137 $9,797 11.745' 22.718. 10.326 21.327 A. 665! 9.900: 9.266 9.072; 20.677: 11.033 0.585. 11.382 901.000 955.000 .1,031.500 1,081.841 1,006.113 719.599 836.211 852.373 1,266.000 926.458 650.700 908.904 1,221.726 $7,058 13.850 13.200 11.789 12.715 5.699 6.973 9.283 17.000 20.811 ■8.466 9.712 9.762 $9.271! 482.500 $7,503 M EN ’S G O O D Y E A B W E L T L O W S H O ES . 10 21 1,533.334. 952.727 $16,897 11.478 1,779.163' 1,904.117 $15,751 18.286 1,139.373 853.377 $10.770 8.060 M EN ’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O E S . 15 19 25 $8,503 19.233 7.665 896.490. 898.375 1,006.895 1,554.936 1,123.375 1,148.380 ;H0.638: 8.930 6.972 $94,653 1,021.912 679.356 W O M EN ’ S G O O D Y E A B W E L T L O W 5 6 7 11 23 26 35 40 41 44 45 960.000 1,340.000 1,517.000 1,527.000. 1,256.627 846.109. 1,088.109 1,621.767. 1, .782.450 % 013.941 1,416.819 $13.583 .16.410 10.888 11.632 13.424 10.483 .8.776 18.024 19.471 21.445 17.057 1,665.000 .2,573.000 ir59a 000 2,094.000 1,441.712 1,527.536 1,781.060 4,056.023 5,211.365 1,881.909 2 , 266.819 $17.147 25.515 9.904 13.565 13.545 12.794 11.529 28.112 33.681 14.610 16.467 $7,741 9.324: 6* 375 ( SH O ES. 1,145.397 1,370.397 1,215.882 1,329.897 671.446. 1,231.903 1,360.347 1,603.623 1,448.697 1,270.092 1,272.671 $ia775 11.201 8.621 10.749 •6.021 9.785 10.604 14.265 12.346 12.669 ia865 W O M E N ’ S G O O D Y E A B W E L T H IG H S H O E S . 1,273.416 1,071.282 $21.112 16.685 2,467.494 1,900.641 $22,779 21.101 1,438.313 1,288.368 W O M EN ’ S M c K A Y L O W SH O ES . 12 14 16 17 20 24 27 29 31 32 36 39 46 1,093.000 1,680.000 1,014.000 1,849.542 §22.223 712.070 : 859.721 662.633 .2,649.000 1,080.532 1,047.1001 V08& 107 2,351.944 $8,475 13.300 13.030 18.558 13.544 4.671 7,980 .5.848 23.178 .221510 13.053 A 776 16.279 1, 576.000 i 2,420.000; l r893.500 1,899.723 2,-763.889 2,553.090. 2,627.409' 2 ,08a 104 4,834.513 U 952.437 2,,608.020 1,781.033 1,858.547 $9,768 20.420 15.290 29.994 .21.535 7.989 14.237 8.415 41.641 19.127 17.341 21.529 13.411 1,221.397 942.548 1,-421.894 1,232.402 1,173.036 .579.692 1,;233.146. 1,090.611 949.548. 1,521.156 1,255.540 1,504.199 1,34a 163 W O M EN ’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES. 665.250 $ia359 1,09a 500 $ ia 9 i7 ! 990.397 COST— SELECTED OPERATIONS AND tfl&ABTMENTS, 131 1923, B Y D EPAR T M EN T S, K IN D OP SHOE, A N D E S T A B L IS H M E N T . Bottoming depart ment. Finishing department. Packing department. Total, all operations. Estab- 14cH iiS B- Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. ment No. M EN ’ S GOO D YEAR W E L T H IG H SH O E S . 1,332.259 1,605.824 1,212. 772 1,371.950 1,274. 000 1,068.630 1,027.954 1, 354. 650 1,364.552 1, C96. 38.) 935.171 $12. 306 18.746 18.678 19.141 17. 996 18.154 11.532 21.845 20.404 17. 072 9.294 610.370 662.524 663.019 546.500 711.000 575.298 441. 517 1,193. 651 829. 975 740.208 514.571 $5,611 8.211 9.007 7.216 7.971 7.576 3.908 15.260 10.814 8.008 4.432 528.073 1,077.964 * 855. 250 1,162. 280 783.000 727. 798 638.725 961. 584 1,023.594 774.692 578.171 $4,076 7.421 7.198 10.917 7.686 7.018 5.957 11.118 9.962 6.695 4.742 6,411.739 10,390.334 7,716.740 8,571.648 8,885.950 6,889.191 6,064.722 10,226.191 9,610. 591 7,492.937 5,947.588 $54. 624 92.398 84.476 95.138 104.672 80.830 57.108 125.120 110.311 79.386 46.570 1 2 3 4 8 9 28 30 33 34 38 10,156.038 7,846.726 $107,972 90.375 10 21 5,533.259 5,911.341 4,990.513 $45,745 51.416 38.338 15 19 25 $93.626 107.866 68.588 75.864 71.209 67.985 73.570 140.607 12a 455 100.799 93.591 6 6 7 11 23 26 35 40 41 44 45 10,206.309 8,404.624 $126,825 108.606 18 22 7,041.397 9,032.548 8,194394 8, 5ia 350 7,659.150 5,324561 6,474819 5 ,69a 061 14,943.061 7,594.654 7,729.076 7,722.514 9,150.559 $51.552 107.455 82.368 86.976 101.580 35.991 53.917 50.593 159.456 79.277 74.753 61.047 71.618 24 27 29 31 32 36 39 46 4,633.647 $55,673 13 M E N ’ S GOODYEAR W E LT L O W SH O ES. 1,962.500 1,370.019 $24,558 20.206 945.834 742.676 $12,334 9.573 1,537.500 1,267.575 $12.814 10.787 M EN’ S M cK A Y H IG H SH O ES. 494.770 600.375 535.290 $4.312 6.209 4.099 462.070 554.375 342.741 $3,942 5.586 2.824 538.070 582.375 459.048 $4,126 4.334 3.677 W OM EN’ S G O ODYEAR W E LT L O W 1,041. 500 1,460.000 1,920.000 L 874.000 1,219. 250 1,513. 712 1,923.634 2,832.782 2,308.210 1,568. 737 1,665.364 $20,845 19.860 13. 343 14. 810 16.310 13.632 17.487 31.184 23.313 20.389 19.314 650.000 1,065. 000 980.000 1,063.000 750.439 860.818 837.848 1,729.336 1,467.340 997. 438 900.455 $11.800 14.310 6.633 7.935 8.135 8.296 6.489 17.903 16.080 11.258 9.459 691.000 780.000 2,577.000 1,345.000 572.-150 648.537 1,007.384 1,483.067 1,297.030. 1,442.667 1,047.272 SHO ES. $8,004 6.170 14.199 9.753 3.882 5.695 7.341 10.602 7.790 11.654 9.235 6,731.397 9,493.397 10,359.882 10,077.897 6,688.256 7,204.907 9,301. 202 15,23& 757 14,930.502 10,003.702 9,432.128 W O M EN ’S G OODYEAR W E LT H IG H SH O ES . 1,692.697 1,47a 564 $26,803 22.107 1,157.234 848.923 $16.591 11.446 986.297 1,034.205 $10.330 8.643 W O M EN ’ S M cK A Y L O W SH O ES. 896.000 1,545.000 1,180.500 705.235 656.112 480.710 707.220 778.800 i,ooaooo 687.183 630.600 962:022 875.272 $6.180 21.260 12.950 7.193 11.397 4.464 5.760 8.257 14 704 9.525 7.240 7.275 7.492 742.000 1,175.000 1,092.000 644.554 794.444 602.549 512.224 620.810 3,503.000 913.945 792.670 770.867 687.381 $5.491 18.030 11.060 7.0£3 13.446 4875 4.612 5.237 43.136 9.017 a 168 6.829 7.213 812.000 915.000 561.000 1,424 753 1,343.333 676.851 698.889 607.730 1,243.000 812.943 1,344.440 1,007.382 819.526 $4,783 8.850 4120 11.663 17.616 3.638 4 455 4287 10.725 7.604 9.443 7.341 6.079 12 14 16 17 20 W O M EN ’ S M c K A Y H IG H SH O ES . | 558.875 $7,077 422.875 $5,969 417 250 $4577 ia2 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED, PARTS PURCHASED, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION. As has already been stated, many establishments purchase certain >arts, such as outsoles, insoles, counters, heels, etc. It was thereore necessary, in order to be able to report as nearly as possible total cost,figures for each establishment purchasing parts, to obtain cost figures for the parts so purchased from establishments specializing in the production of the parts. From the cost figures covering such arts, averages were computed and used in arriving at the total cost gures for each establishment which purchased parts. The detailed figures used in arriving at the averages were furnished by the estab lishments from which the parts were purchased. { S A N D LABOR COSTS IN TH E M A N U FA C TU R E OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y EST A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION. OU TSO LES, M EN ’ S . Time cost (minutes). Establishment and operation. Establishment No. 47: • Strip. _ ____ _ ~_ _ __ . ' Cut* _ _ _____________ . __ Catch________________________________________________ Grade Sort__________________________________________________ Tie ____ _ _________________ Rack__ _ __ __ _ ,_ _ _ - - __ _ • Bag.................................. ........................................................ Case , r ___ . . . Organization _ T otal,..____ _ Establishment No. 48: Strip _ _ .... _. _ ., ___ Cut............................................................................................. Catch.._____ _____________ ____ ______________________ Sort and grade . _ __ , r Case and rack_______ _________________________________ . _ Rag __ ....... _. ____ Organization _ T _ Total_ ____ ______ _ _, ,. Labor Cost. Number Hourly of pairs earnings. worked on per hour. 5.625 9.000 9.000 13.500 3R 000 10.000 10.000 3.000 -3.000 5.400 $0,057 .106 .045 .068 .343 .047 .061 .025 .025 .091 $0,606 .707 .303 .303 .687 .283 .364 .506 .506 1.010 98.525 .868 .529 10.667 10.667 10.667 32.000 8.000 5.818 4.267 .111 .133 .037 .378 .056 .040 .067 .624 .748 .208 .709 .420 .413 .942 82.086 .822 .601 Establishment No. 49: Strip _ . . . . . _ ___ Cut _______________ _____ _________________________ __ Catch......................... ......... ........... ........... ............. ............ Sort and grade________________________________________ Case and rack __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _. _ Rag _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Organization __ _ _ _ _ _ _ ___ _ .. _ _ 8.372 8.372 a 372 30.000 8.250 2.092 7.788 .085 .101 .031 .343 .044 .014 .111 .609 .724 . 222 .686 .320 .402 .855 Total...................................................................................... 73.246 .729 .597 Establishment No. 50: Strip, stock. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Cut ___ _ _ _ __ _ __________ _ __ Catch...................................................................... ............... Grade __ __ _ . Sort and rack_________________ _______________________ Case.......................... ...................... .................. .......... .......... Rag ___________________________ ______ ____________ Organization _ _ _ _ _ _ 13.295 13.295 13.295 17.727 40.140 2.727 1.818 14.625 .136 .164 .055 .085 .467 .017 .011 .227 .616 .738 .246 .287 .697 .370 .370 .930 116.922 1.162 .596 46.154 16.457 24.000 5.236 17.455 5.236 10.473 .615 .086 .296 .044 .109 .064 .191 .800 .314 .740 .504 .375 .733 1.094 125.011 1.405 .674 Total „ _ __ _____ ___ _____ _ Establishment No. 51: Cut............... ........... ..................................... .......................... Grade................................................... .................................... 8ort__ _ __ ______ _ _ __ __ _ __ _ _ Case. _ _ _ __ __ _ _ _ ___ Rag _ Ship............................................................................................ Organization _ _ _ _ _ Total _ ____ ____________________ .. ___ 1,06a 67 66a 67 666.67 444.45 200.00 600.00 600.00 2,000.00 . 2,000.00 1, 111. 11 562.48 562.48 562.48 187.50 750.00 1,031.28 l,4 0 a i4 7ia67 716.67 7ia67 200.00 727.27 2,868.07 770.42 451.30 451.30 451.30 338.47 149.48 2,200.23 3,300.33 410.26 130.00 364.59 250.00 1,145.91 343.74 1,145.91 572.90 OUTSOLES, WOMENS, 133 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued. O U TSO LES, M EN ’ S—Concluded. Time cost (minutes). Establishment and operation. Establishment No. 52: Cut________ ___________________________________ . . . ___ Crade, machine. __ T _ ____ Sort ' _ __ _________ __ ____ _ _____ __ Case_____________________________________________ ____ Bag................................................ .......................................... Ship, etc____ _________________________________________ Organization________________________________________ Labor cost. Number Hourly of pairs earnings. worked on per hour. 59.791 14.871 18.551 10.732 7.972 7.200 7.200 $0,779 .085 .232 .067 .061 .058 .100 126.317 1.382 .656 4.348 9.795 9.795 29.851 2.913 9.600 .174 1.942 1.942 2.913 .036 .103 .033 .313 .014 .045 .001 .023 .021 .039 .500 .630 .200 .630 .280 .280 .483 . 701 .649 .799 73.273 .628 .514 2.700 6.171 13.500 13.500 34.884 .032 .071 .210 .055 .517 .711 .689 .933 .244 .889 2,222.22 972.29 444.44 444.44 172.00 2.000 1.000 3.096 2.381 2.700 6.750 .014 .007 .022 .020 .040 .099 .423 .420 .422 .512 .889 .876 3,000. CO 6,0C0. CO 1,938. CO 2,519.95 2,222.22 888.89 T ota l 88.682 1.087 .7 3 5 A v e ra g e , all e s t a b lis h m e n t s 98.525 .868 .529 Total ___ ____ ____ __ __ ________ Establishment No. 53: Strip_____________ - _________ ____ ____________________ Cut............................................................................................ Oatoh_ __ _ __ ___ ___ _____ _ _ _ __ Sort........... ....................................... ...................................... Case T Tio u p Bag Instruct. Ceneral wcrk Organization _ r ___ _ ____ _ _ ______ _ . _ __ __ ___ __ __ _ - Tr _ Total____ _____ ________________ - _______ _____ - .......... Establishment No. 54: Stock, handle____________________ ______ __________ _____ Strip_______ _______ _____ ______ _____________ _________ ___ Cut Catch________ Sort _ _ _ ___ .................. .. '_________ .... ... ________ _ C a se Spread_________ ___________________________________ Count____ ________________ _____ __ - _______ _______ Tie up___________________________________________ Rag _____ ______________ Ship O r g a n iz a t io n ^ . __ _ _. ____ ___ .. _ $0.781 .344 .756 .375 .458 L* .479 .833 .100.35 403.47 323.43 559.08 752.64 833.33 833.33 1,379.95 612.56 612.56 201.00 2,059.73 625.00 34,482.76 3.089.60 3.089.60 2,059.73 OUTSOLES, W O M EN ’ S . Establishment No. 48: Strip........... - ............ Cut.......................... Catch........................ Sort and grade........ Case and rack......... Bag............................ Organization........... 10.667 10.667 10.667 32.000 8.000 5.818 4.267 $0,111 .133 .037 .378 .056 .040 .067 $0,624 .748 .208 .709 .420 .413 .942 Total..................... 82.086 .822 .601 8.372 8.372 8.372 30.000 8.250 2.092 7.788 .085 .101 .031 .343 .044 .014 .111 .609 .724 .222 .686 .320 .402 .855 73.246 .729 Establishment No. 49: Strip........................ Cut.......................... Catch...................... Sort and grade___ Case and rack........ Bag.......................... Organization.......... Total, » .597 ” J 1 562.43 562.48 562.48 187.50 750.00 1,031.28 1,406.14 716.67 716.67 716.67 200.00 727.27 2,868.07 770.42 " 134 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED. TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR IQS PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1323, B Y ESTABLISHMENT AMD OPERATION—Oentaaaed. OUT&OLES, W OM EN’S -C oaoh ided . Establishment and operation. Time cost (minutes). Establishment No. 53: Strip.. ddt___ Catch__ Sort.. Case....... ............. .. Tie up----------------Bag--------------------Instruct------- -------General work.......... Organization.., Total................................. ........... Establishment No. 54: Handle stock___ Strip............ ........ Cut___ ___ ____ Cateh__ . . . . ___ Sort.__________ Cases— Bag___________ Ship. Organization.. Total.......... Establishment No. 55: Strip...................... Cut........................ Catch_____ ____ Sort and grade....... Pack and bunch... Bag___________ _ S o r tButts.... ............. Off-all_______ End pieces____ General work.......... . Ship......................... Organization........... . Total. Establishment No. 56: Receive stock________ Strip________________ Cut............................. .. Catch_______________ Grade________ _____ Weigh_______________ Case............................... Bag_________________ Others, sort pieces___ Floormen...................... Foremen_____ _______ T o t a l . . ™ ............ .. Establishment No. 57: StripCut_________________ Cateh............................ Sort, grade, and rack.. Case.............................. . Spread and tie up sizes.. Organization................ . $0,036 71.724 .612 .512 .................... 2.700 6.171 9.308 ‘ 8.308 *31.250 .032 .071 .129 .034 .463 .711 .689 .933 . 244 .889 2,222.22 972.29 722.20 722.20 192.00 1.800 .656 2.254 1.667 2.700 6.750 .013 .005 .016 .014 .040 .099 .423 .421 .423 .511 .889 .876 3,333.33 9,146.35 2^661.94 3,599.29 2,222.22 888.89 72 564 .916 .757 10.499 9.287 9.287 36.364 21.819 3.674 1.225 $0,133 .124 .037 .461 .102 .020 .007. $0,760 .800 .240 .760 .280 .320 .318; 571.49 646.07 646.07 165.00 274.99 1,633.10 4,897.96 1.668 1.668 1.668 1.668 3.386 6.671 .013 .012 .032 .104 .010 .468 .432 .360 .360 .576 .935 3,597.12 3,597.12 3,597.12 3,597.12 1,798.57 899.42 108.834. 1.065. .587. *035 ,700, .800 .930 .260 la 000 . Number Hourly of pairs earnings. worked on per hour. 4.348 9.795 9.795 28.302 2.913 9,600 .174 1.942 1.942 2.913 3.000 3.000 10.000 Sort________ ____ Labor cost. 20.000 20.000 3.000. 2.000 3.000 10.000 10.000 20.000 . 114.000 7.773 8.682 8.682 31.885. 2 696 1.667 3.947 .990 .m .033 .297 .014 .045 .001 .023 .021 .039 .040 .155 .044 .222 .296, .033 .022 . 033 . .103 .092 .326 1.401 $0,500 .630: .200 .630 .280 .280 .483 .701 .649 .799 .636 .888. ,330 .660 ,66 0 . .618 .552 ,978. 2,000 00 2,600.00 .600.00 -660.00 800.00 300.00 2,000.00 3,000.00 2,000.00 600.00 800.00 300.00 .737 — .069! .121. .030 .412, .018 .011 .027 .013 .533 ,836 : .207 .775. .401 .396 .410 .788* Total................................... 66.322 .701 .634 Average, all establishments. 84.111 .892 .637 1,379.95 642.56 632.56 212.00 ^059.73 625.00 34,482.76 3,089.60 .3,089.60 2,059.73 771.94 696.10 691.10 188.18 2,225.44 3,599.93 1,519.98 6,061.22 135 INSOLES, LEATHER. TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued. IN SO L E S, L E A T H E R . Time cost (minutes). Establishment and .operation. Establishment No. 53: Out ______________ r_._ . ________ Grade and skive. _ _ .. ._ Sort and rank rr. _ Case___ _______ ___________________ ___________ ______ T ie up...................... ................„„............................................ B a g ..._____ _____ _________ ______________ ______ ____ Instruct______________________________ ___ _____ ______ Organization _ _.. n _r r _ T otal. __ __ . Establishment No. 58: C ut,. . . . . . . . n Grade...______________________________________ _______ Sort _ . _ _ _ . ......... Rack _ - - - - Case _. T _ ___ ...... Ship__ . . . . . . _ . _ T _ _______ ._ General work______________ ______ ____ ______________ Organization. . .. r rrr ... . . ....... Total _ __________ r______________ Establishment No. 59: Sort stoek____________________________________________ Cut _____________________ _____ Sort . ______ _______ Case . . ___ General work ._ . .. __ Organization _ _ ,. __ _ mnt.al Establishment No. 60: Select sole stock____ __________________________ _______ c u t............................................................................................ Skive............... ............ ..._______________________________ ____ .... ___ Sort, grade, and rank. Rag Organization. _ ......... Total .. n . ....... Establishment No. 61: Sort stock— :._____________ ^ Roll _____ Cut _ _____________________ Grade. _ n^ Sort and case___________________________ _________ ____ Bag . . . . . Utility........................„............................................................ Organization . T otal. r n T Establishment No. 62: •Cm* . rnsT n r . _ ____________ •_______ ril_. ______ •Skive. _ Sort _ ... r n ___ _ Inspect_________________________________ „____________ Case ... . _ _ S h ip ____ . _ .............. Organization_____ r_„___ _____ _ _ ____________ _ Total _ . _ _ r ..... Average, all establishments . . r r . _ Labor cost. Number Hourly of pairs earnings. worked on per hour. 33.124 9.677 19.298 3.871 9.846 .174 9.740 3.896 $0,287 .850 .177 .035 .035 .001 .097 .049 $0,520 .310 .550 .550 .220 .414 .600 .750 89.421 .731 .490 22.625 18.100 15.083 5.430 7.757 2.715 5.430 2.715 .292 .110 .156 .027 .847 .825 .040 .050 .774 .365 .619 .298 .364 .552 .442 1.105 79,855 .747 .561 20.000 43.000 26.000 3.500 9.600 6.400 .200 .450 .270 .030 .050 .142 .600 .628 .623 .514 .313 1331 108. 500 1.142 .632 5.280 49.600 15.200 36.000 5.520 5. 242 .044 .620 .095 .408 .046 .091 .500 .750 .375 .680 .500 1.042 116.842 1.304 .670 3.840 3.013 57.692 7.975 37.242 1.667 7.680 7.680 • .028 .022 .691 .054 .420 .013 .056 .893 .438 .438 .719 .406 .677 .457 .488 .729 126.789 1.377 .652 53.-098 15.000 40.000 10.000 16.600 6.460 6.460 .425 .090 .333 .087 .070 .037 .073 .480 .360 .500 .520 .420 .346 .680 141.018 1.115 .474 110.404 1.069 .581 181.14 820.03 810.99 1,550.00 622.02 34,482.76 616.02 1,540.04 265.19 331.49 397.80 1.104.97 773.50 2.209.95 1.104.97 2.209.95 300.00 189.54 230.77 1,714.29 025.00 937.50 1,136.36 120.97 394.74 166.67 1,086.95 L 144. GO 1,562. 50 1,991.38 104.00 752.35 161.11. 3,600.00 781.25 781.25 113.00 400.00 150.00 600.00 COO. 00 928.80 928.80 136 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED. T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF PARTS PU R CH ASED FOR 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y E ST A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION—Continued. CO U N T ER S, LEATHER. Establishment and operation. Establishment No. 83: Cut....................... ................................... ....................... ......... ‘ ‘ Grade (4) _ ___ • "Skive (8) ....__ . __ Shaveends _ _ . . . Roll.wa*.’', — ._ ____ _ _____ _ ______________ _____ Mold ____ __ _ Snrt. molded Inspect ________ ______ . _ , _ __ _ ______ _______ Pack , . _ Instruct. (2) _ . . .. . . . . . Organization (3) .. _ . . Total____ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Establishment No. 59: ____ . . _______ Ciit _ Sort, flat _ _ _____ _ _ Skive _ _ _ Shave ends _ __ _ _ _ Roll, wet , , _ r_ __ . Roll' w ar.. \ _ T. .... __ M old_________ ____________________ ____________ Sort molded__________________________________________ General work _ _ _ _ Organization __ _ ____ Total. ......... ,. . _ , ..._ _ ______ Establishment No. 60: Cut............................... ........................................................... Sort and grade, flat _ _ . ___ ____ .. Skive ... __ ___ Shave ends__________________ - _______________________ Roll, w et....................................... ......... . ............................ Roll, wax................................................................................. Mold....................................... ................................................. Inspect, mold, sort, and pack_________________________ Glue, spread, and pick.......................................................... Paste........ ........................................................ ...................... Organization__________________________________________ Total. _ ..... ._ _ . . . ... _ . _. ___ ...... Establishment No. 62: Out_ ___ . _ _____ . . . . ___ Sort, flat___ ______ Split........................................................................................... Skiv e____ . Shave ends................................................................................ Roll, wet : . _ _ . _ __________ __ Roll, wax. _ _ _ _ _ _ Mold......................................................................................... Sort molded ._ . _ __ _ . Pack........................................................................................... Bend......................................................................................... , _ Inspect_____ , Ship........................................................................................... General work______ __________ Organization............................................................................ Total___ ....... Establishment No. 63: Cut __ Sort, flat....................................... _*___..................................... Grade________________________________________________ Skive. _ Shave ends___________________________ ________ ______ Roll, wet................................................................. ............ ... Roll, wax____ T____ M old____________________ ______ Inspect...................................................................................... Pack „ _ _ _ General work ___ _________ ___ _ _ Ship........................................................................................... Organization. ________ ____ T otal.. _______________ _____ Number Hourly of pairs earnings. worked on per hour. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. 33.124 10.000 11.605 11.605 5.556 21.176 7.200 5.182 7.200 2.898 4.348 $0,287 .040 091 .068 .022 .180 .038 .052 .024 .029 .046 $0,520 .240 .470 .350 .243 .510 .320 .600 .200 .600 .633 119.894 .877 .439 25.000 15.000 8.000 8.000 8.000 8.000 24.000 24.000 .624 .460 .458 .375 .308 .308 .525 .525 .311 .866 16.000 .260 .115 .061 .050 .041 .041 .210 .210 .083 .231 152.000 1.302 .514 48.000 13.080 10.471 9.529 8.640 13.077 28.791 8.407 16.919 71.956 4.160 .480 .109 .100 .091 .036 .068 .250 .073 .097 .325 .052 .600 .500 .573 .573 .250 .312 .521 .521 .344 .271 .750 233.030 1.681 .433 53.100 20.000 8.571 7.895 8.571 •4.000 10.000 18.750 15.000 8.571 9.740 4.828 4.828 9.656 4.828 .425 .160 .051 .058 .054 .020 .057 .169 .115 .049 .055 .040 .028 .058 .052 .480 .480 .357 .441 .378 .300 .342 .541 .460 .343 .339 .497 .348 .360 .646 188.338 1.391 .443 45.000 13.500 10.800 13.500 9.000 5.400 5.400 18.000 5.400 2.160 9.000 9.000 27.000 .500 .150 .056 .145 .070 .024 .036 .193 .030 .010 .053 .117 .243 .667 .667 .311 .644 .467 \267 .400 .643 .333 .278 .353 .780 .540 173.160 1.725 .598 1 6 .0 0 0 . 181.14 600.00 517.02 517.02 1,079.91 283.34 833.33 1,157.86 833.33 2,070.40 1,379.95 240.00 400.00 750.00 750.00 750.00 750.00 250.00 250.00 375.00 375.00 125.00 458.72 573.01 629.66 694.44 458.82 208.40 713.69 354.63 83.38 1,442.31 112.99 300.00 700.03 759.97 700.03 1,500.00 600.00 320.00 400.00 700.03 6 ,160.20 1.242.75 1.242.75 621.38 1,242.75 133.33 444.45 555.56 444.45 666.67 1, 111. 11 1, 111. 11 333.33 1, 111. 11 2,777.78 666.67 666.67 222.22 HEELS (LEATHER ), M EN?S, 137 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued; CO U N TER S, L EATH ER —Concluded. Establishment and operation. Time cost (minutes). Labor cost. 30.968 24.000 9.600 9.600 9.600 3.300 $0,416 .127 .109 .073 .120 .063 Establishment No. 64: C u t ..,....................................................................................... Grade, machine....................................................................... Skive......................................................................................... Shave ends............................................................................... Inspect and pack in barrels.................................................. Organization............................................................................ Total...................................................................................... Average, all establishments_________________________ ♦ 87.068 ..... . 158.915 Number Hourly of pairs earnings. worked on per hour. $0,807 .318 .682 .454 .750. 1.136 .908 .626 1.314 .496 193.75 250.00 625.00 625.00 625.00 ,1,818.18 HEELS (LEATHER), M EN ’ S, 4 /3 . E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 61: rVnt. l i f t s _ _____ __________________ fin rt. l i f t s G o u g e l i f t s . .. . .. _. . B u ild a n d p ress . ____ ________ D r y . ____ ~ . . . . C om p ress . T n sp e n t,; .sort., e a s e , a n d c o u n t , _ _ _........ _ _ _ _ . . 2 6 .6 4 2 4 2 .8 5 7 5 .2 8 0 61. 579 1 1 .2 6 9 2 4 .2 5 6 2 1 .2 5 7 4 .9 3 8 4 .8 3 5 4 .8 9 6 $ 0 ,2 5 9 .2 5 3 .0 3 3 .3 9 0 .0 9 0 .1 9 0 .1 5 5 .0 3 6 .0 4 7 .0 6 8 $ 0 ,5 8 3 .3 5 4 .3 7 5 .3 8 0 .4 7 9 .4 7 0 .4 3 8 .4 3 7 .5 8 3 .8 3 3 2 0 7 .8 0 9 1 .5 2 1 .4 3 9 1 2 1 .4 0 4 7 1 .9 7 8 6 6 .0 0 0 2 .0 0 0 6 .0 0 0 7 .5 0 0 6 .0 0 0 1 .1 2 5 .6 6 7 .5 5 0 .0 1 5 .0 4 4 .0 6 3 .0 7 8 .5 5 6 .5 5 6 .5 0 0 .4 5 0 .4 4 0 .5 0 4 .7 8 0 2 8 0 .8 8 2 2 .5 4 2 .5 4 3 3 5 .7 6 0 5 3 .6 4 6 4 8 .0 0 0 1 3 .5 0 0 8 .4 0 0 2 0 .2 5 0 2p 7a.0 c0 k0 2 0 .2 5 0 .2 9 8 .2 9 8 .4 0 0 .1 1 3 .0 7 0 .2 0 9 .2 2 5 .2 3 8 .5 0 0 .3 3 3 .5 0 0 .5 0 2 .5 0 0 .6 1 9 .5 0 0 .7 0 5 226.806 1.851 .490 82.077 6.933 82.282 6.000 9.000 19.200 1.083 .065 1.000 .046 .078 .400 .792 .563 .729 .460 .520 1.250 . ._ U t i l i t y .................................. ................................................................................ S h i p ___________________________________________________________________ O r g a n iz a t io n ________ T o t a l _______ ____________________________________________________ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 65: C u t. lift s . r _ _ C u t. w e d g e s _ . U n i l d h e e l s _______ _ . . _ O onge _ ... _ . . . . . P ress an d d r y ro o m . ........ C o m p r e s s a n d c o u n t , ____ __ _ _ O r g a n i z a t i o n _r T rtta l . ....... r _. _ .......................... . _ _ . . ... ... .................................... . _ _ _____ _ .............. _ E s ta b lis h m e n t N o . 66: C u t g r a i n l i f t s . _____________________________________________________ G ra d e a n d s k iv e _ . . . . . T a c k r a n d s . ____ __ _ ________ D ry _ . _ _ ____ C om p ress ___ . .... . . . .............. .......... O en eral w o rk _ .. ______ ______________ - __________ ____________________ S h ip a n d O r g a n i z a t i o n . ... . _ ......................... T ota l _ . Establishment No. 67: C u t. l i f t s r . . . . . . . C u t. w e d g e s _ B u ild a n d p ress G ouge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ _ _ _ . T r _ _ . . Compress ______ ____ ______ __________________________ O r g a n iz a t io n a n d in s p e c t io n T o ta l A v e r a g e , a ll e s t a b l i s h m e n t s r 205.492 2.672 .780 230.247 2.147 .559 2 2 5 .2 1 1 4 0 .0 0 1 ,1 3 6 .3 6 9 7 .4 4 5 3 2 .4 4 2 4 7 .3 6 2 8 2 .2 6 1 ,2 1 5 .0 7 1 ,2 4 0 .9 6 1 ,2 2 5 .5 0 4 9 .4 2 8 3 .3 6 9 0 .9 1 3 .0 0 0 . 1 .0 0 0 . 8 0 0 .0 0 1 ,0 0 0 .0 0 1 6 7 .7 9 1 1 1 .8 4 1 2 6 .0 0 4 4 4 .4 5 7 1 4 .2 9 2 9 6 .3 0 2 2 2 .2 2 2 9 6 .3 0 731.02 865.43 72.92 1,000.00 666.67 312.50 00 00 TIME AND 188 IMBQB U0ST3— PARTS PURCHASED, T IM E A N © L AB O R COSTS IN T H E M AN U FA C TU R E OF P A R T S P U R C H A S E © FOR 10D BAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, B Y E ST A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION— C<mtAnned. W m tM (LE A TH E R ), W O lW fP S , B /S . Time cost (minutes). Establishment and operation. Labor cost. Number Hourly of pairs -earnings. worked on per hour. Establishment No. 61: • Cut l i f t s . . . . . . ____________________ ____ ___________ —Out wedges............... .........................- ................................... , Sort lifts__ __________ _______ ____ ____ - ................... —Gouge lifts................— ..........- ............................................ Build heels and press......................................... - ................. Dry..........................................................................................Compress............................... - ................................................ Inspect, sort, count, and case........ .................................... U tility -— . — —..................................... A .......................... Ship.......................................................................................... Organization........ ............................................... - ................. 41.657 4.140 66.912 6.280 151.580 11.269 24.255 21.257 4.937 4.835 4.896 $0,404 .034 .395 .033 .960 .090 .190 .155 .036 .047 .068 $0,583 .590 .354 .375 .280 .479 .470 .438 .438 .383 .833 Total_______________________________________________ 340.91$ 2.412 .424 Establishment No. 66: Cut grain lifts.................................................... - ................... Cut wedges.............................................................................. •Grade___ .. ._______________________ ______ —..................Build......................................................................................... Press (jack)___________ _________ _________ ____________ Inspect........... .......... ............................ ........... .......... ............ Gouge______ __________ ______ ____ _______— -------- — Dry............................................. ............................................. Compress and cou n t........................................................... General .work................. ............ ..........................— _____ Pack and ship................................................. ............... .— , Organization............. , ............. —.......................... —— _ 157.560 8.667 67.568 106.758 6.750 6.750 18.000 6.750 8.400 .20.250 .27.000 20.250 1.313 .072 ..375 .790 .056 .055 .100 .056 .070 .209 .225 .238 .500 .498 .333 .444 .498 .489 .333 .498 .500 .619 .500 .705 454.703 3.559 .467 82.077 6.933 98.742 6.000 9.000 19.200 1083 .065 1200 .046 .078 .400 .792 .563 .729 .460 .520 1250 __ 221.952 2.872 .776 Establishment No. 68: Cut grain lifts.......................................................................... -Cut wedges.................................................... .............. Build........ ................... ....................................................... Press (jack)........................................ .......................... .... — .‘Compress__ _____ _______________________ ____________ .Inspect and count............................ .................. ................. Sweep____ _____________ __ __________________________ Organization______ . . . ______—.................................... . . 186.799 9.571 177.960 6.000 9.000 .2.308 2.400 2.400 1.731 .078 1.483 .044 .083 .019 .020 .027 .556 .489 .500 .440 .553 .494 .500 .675 396.438 3,485 .527 131.800 12.443 m .7 6 4 .10.165 .98.249 6.776 .3.388 6.250 10.165 10.165 3.388 13.553 1.296 .108 1852 .053 .580 .038 .021 .033 .056 .064 .035 .145 .590 .521 .318 .313 .354 .336 .372 = .317 .331. .378 .620 .642 656.106 4.281 .391 T o ta l..— , ___________________ . ______ _ ___ Establishment No. 67: Out lifts__ ________ ______ ____ _____________ _________ Cut wedges...................—_____ __________ _____________ Build and:press heels...................... ........... —___________ Gouge...................................................................................... Compress.................... ............... ...................... — Organization and inspection.............................— __ Total ____ Total. _______ . , Establishment No. 69: Cut flexible lifts; cut grain lifts............................................ Gut wedges............... .................. ........................... ............. - .Bert grain and flexible lifts................................. ................. Serve lifts and paste.....................— _______ _________ Build.................................................................- ................. Press (jack), dry, and scrape........................... .................. Inspect, wet__________ ________ _______________ ______ Compress— ______ ________ ______________________ Inspect, dry______ _________________ _________ _______ Lamp______________________________ Pack and ship--------------------------. . . . . _____ . . . ___ _____ Organization______________________ T „ ____ ____ Total_______________________ _ 144.38 1,449.28 89.67 1,136.36 39.58 532.44 247.37 282.26 1,215.32 1,240.96 1,225.50 38.08 692.28 88.80 .56.20 ■888.89 888.89 .333.33 •888.89 7M. 29 296.30 222.22 296.30 731.02 866.43 60.76 1,000.00 606.67 312.50 32.12 626.89 33.72 1,000.00 666.67 2,596.65 2,500.00 2,500.00 45.52 482.20 17.15 580.26 61.07 885.48 1,770.96 960.00 590.26 590.26 1,-770.96 442.71 TOP PIECES, X/EATHER, 3:39 TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN- THE MANUFACTURE OF PARTS PURCHASED FOR 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1923, BY ESTABLISHMENT AND OPERATION—Continued. HEELS (LEATHER), WOMEN’S, SfS—Concluded. Time cost (minutes}. Establishment and operation. Establishment No. 70: Hiit. flevible lifts . . . . . . _ . . Cut grain lifts______________________ ____ ______ ____ Skive wedges______________________________________ Grade lifts _ _ Re.rve. lifts ftnrl paste . _ ........ Build heels _ __ _ Press (jack) .. . .. _ Inspect, wet. r „r TT.r Gouge . , Compress_________________________________________ Inspect, dry, and pack _ . . ......... . Organization . . . . . . ............. Total Average, all establishments _ ... Number Labor Hourly of pairs cost. earnings. worked on per hour. * 142.147 70.995 18.000 3.927 13.200 125.000 13.200 13.200 18.000 13.187 11.703 26.400 $0,905 .452 .109 .025 .080 .700 .080 .080 .109 .080 .071 .220 $0,382 .382 .363 .382 .364 .336 .364 .364 .363 .364 .364 .500 _______ 468.959 2.911 .372 _ • 423.179 3.253 .461 42.21 84.51 333.33 1,527.88 454.55 48.00 454.55 454. 55 333.33 454.99 512.69 227.27 TOP PIECES, LEATHER. Establishment No. 65: Sort and skive pieces. Cut.............................. Count and inspect... Organization.............. 2.444 21.993 12.708 13.500 $0,023 .228 .118 .175 $0,555 .622 .556 .778 Total........................ 50.645 .544 .644 Establishment No. 69: Sort scrap................... Skive.and roll stock.. C u t ........................... . Compress and count. Lump___________ _ Inspect and ship-----Organization............. . 7.812 7.812 * 31.250 6.250 7.812 7.812 7.812 .049 .060 .288 .037 .049 .081 .109 .375 .459 .552 .354 .375 .625 .833 Total_____________ 76.560 .673 .527 Establishment No. 71: Sort pieces................... Cut top lifts_____. . . . Grade and sort........... Skive........................... Count and bag......... Organization............. 30.000 7.500 4.000 3.500 6.000 .056 .311 .069 .033 .012 .073 .556 .622 .555 .489 .488 .733 Total....................... . 55.000 .554 .604 Establishment No. 72: Sort scrap leather----Skive scrap leather... Cut............................. . Skive lifts.................. . Count lifts and ship.. Organization.............. 8.571 2.143 16.788 2.143 1.071 7.714 .020 .174 .020 .010 .100 .079 .556 .554 .622 .554 .555 .778 Total....................... . 38.430 .403 .629 Establishment No. 73: Skive and roll stock.. Sort stock.................. . Cut............................... Inspect and count.__ Organization........... 9.000 9.000 30.878 1.500 9.000 .100 .343 .012 .070 .167 .467 .667 .667 .468 1.111 59.378 .692 .699 Total.'. 6.000 2,454.99 272.81 472.14 444.45 768.05 768.05 192.00 960. CO 768.05 768.05 768.05 1,000.00 200.00 800.00 1,500.00 4,000.00 1,000.00 700.04 2,799.82 357.40 2,799.82. 5,602.24 777.81 666.67 666.67 194.31 4,000.00 666.67 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— PARTS PURCHASED, 140 T IM E A N D LABOR COSTS IN T H E M A N U FA C TU R E OF PAR TS PU R C H ASED FOR 100 PAIRS OF SHOES IN 1023, B Y E S T A B L ISH M E N T A N D OPERATION—Concluded. T O P PIECES, L EATH ER —Concluded. Time cost (minutes). Establishment and operation. Establishment No. 74: Skive Rnll Hilt, top lifts Count, top lifts _ Organization _ _ . T1_ _ _ - _ _ _____________ Labor cost. Number Hourly of pairs earnings. worked on per hour. 9.000 6.857 24.000 .857 11.250 $0,083 .064 .267 .010 • .229 Total 51.964 .653 .754 Average, all establishments 55.330 .587 .636 _ $0,555 .556 .667 .665 1.222 666.67 875.02 250.00 7,001.17 533.33 B O X T O E S , LEATH ER . Establishment No. 59: Sort stock _ _ _ _ _ Cut _ __ __ ___ _ __ Grade _ __ _ _ ___ Skive Sort and rack _ General work _ ___ _ Organization _ _ 25.000 24.000 16.000 24.000 27.429 13.714 6.000 $0,060. .260 .150 .173 .205 .171 .250 $0,600 .621 .375 .649 .513 .374 1.094 136.143 1.269 .559 1.440 20.928 3.497 3.480 10.440 2.633 3.456 A 756 3.360 1.680 4.362 .218 .034 .029 .058 .032 .018 .076 .014 .007 .053 .012 .500 .625 .583 .500 .333 .729 .312 .521 .250 .250 ; 729 ______________________________ 64.032 * .551 .516 Establishment No. 62: Gut _ . __„ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ Sort flat. ___ _____ _ _ Skive_______ ________________________________ Sort _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _________ ____. ____ Ship General work _ _ ,_ _ Organization . 53.100 20.625 7.500 13.750 4.541 4.541 4.541 .425 .165 .055 .026 .024 .048 .110 .480 .480 .440 .480 .344 .317 .634 108.598 ,853 .471 18.000 41.379 6.750 6.750 .167 .429 .070 .038 .556 .622 .622 .333 Total. __ ,___ __ Establishment No. 60: Sort, stock __ Gnt Grade__ , __ Skive__________________________________________ Sort and count Pack and inspect__________________ ______________ Stamp Scour _ __ _ Pick __ _ ___ Wipe. __ __ _______ _ Organization _ _ Total Total. r _ _ „ _ _ _ __ ______ Establishment No. 65: Roll and skive rough stock _ _ _ _ _ _ Gut • Skive finished hex toes __ Buff finished box toes Sort _ __ __ ' _ _ Count_____. . . ________________________________________ Nail cases General work _ _ O r g a n i z a t i o n __ Total _ _ _ Average, all establishments ___ _ _ _ __ 12.000 7.500 18.000 iaooo 18.000 .124 .078 .147 .173 .233 146.379 1.458 .598 lia788 1.033 .545 .622 .622 .489 .578 .778 1,000.00 240.00 250.00 375.00 25a 00 2ia 75 437.51 4,16a 67 28a 70 1,715.76 1,724.14 574 71 2,27A 77 1,73a 11 68A 24 1,78a 71 3,571.43 1,375.52 112.99 29a 91 800.00 43a 36 1.321.29 1.321.29 1.321.29 33a 33 145.01 88a 89 88a 89 500.00 800.00 333.33 333.33 333.33 APPENDIX A. TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MAKING 100 PAIRS OP SHOES, BY THE HAND METHOD IN 1863 AND BY THE MACHINE METHOD IN 1895. The table following, which is reproduced from the Thirteenth Annual Report of the United States Commissioner of Labor (pp. 540 to 550), shows the time cost and the labor cost of each operation in producing 100 pairs of shoes, by the hand method in 1863 and by the machine method in 1895. 84791°— 24t------ 10 141 142 TIME AND IiABOB COSTS— APPENDIX A, U nit 7 1 . — SHOES: 100 PAIRS M E N 'S M E D IU M G R AD E, C A L F , [Data covering the production of 1 pair of shoes were secured, but in the presentation herewith made these tion shown in the machine method for this unit. One person, HAND M ETH OD . Work done. Machine, implement, or tool used. Measuring feet, cutting patterns, and fitting lasts to measure. Selecting and sorting stock............................................................ Cutting out vamps.......................................................................... Cutting out tips................ .......... .................................................... Cutting out quarters....................................................................... Cutting out linings.......................................................... - .............. Cutting out facings and stays....................................................... Skiving upper stock......................................................................... Pasting facings to linings........................................ - ..................... Foiding top of quarters................................................................... Making wax ends............................................................................ Making linings and sewing on facings and stays...................... Sewing back seam of quarters....................................................... Pasting linings to quarters.......... ................. ................................ Sowing linings to quarters and turning tops.............................. Sewing stays on back seam of quarters...................................... Trimming edges of uppers............................................................. Fastening eyelets- ..................................... ..................................... Sewing back seam of vamps.......................................................... Rubbing down seams_______ ______________________________ Pasting quarters to vamps............................................................ Sewing vamps to quarters............................... . ....................... — Sewing tips to vamps..................................................................... Fitting lasts to measure................................................................. Cutting out insoles.......................................................................... Tape measure, size stick, lasts, knife, etc.. None used....................................................... . Knife, cutting board, and pattern............... ____do............................................................... . ____do............................................................... . do do. Knife and skiving table... Brush.................................... Folding stick....................... Awl and knife...................... Awl, needle, thimble, etc., do................................... Brush.. Awl, needle, thimble, etc___ ____ do........................................ Welt awl................................... Punch and hammer____ . . . . Awl, clamp, and knife........... Hammer and rubbing stick. Brush.................. ..................... Awl, clamp, and knife........... ....... do....................................... Last, knife, and hammer___ .....i...................-..... Rounding and fitting insoles....................................................... Tacking insoles to lasts.................................. ..... . ........................ Cutting and turning insole channel___________________ . ___ Cutting out counters........................................ ............................. Skiving counters............................................................................. Cutting out welts............................................................................ Skiving and fitting welts............................................................... Hammering counters...................................................................... Inserting counters and shank and drawing uppers over lasts and tacking them to insoles. Sewing welts to uppers and insoles________ . ________ ______ Pulling out tacks............................................................................ Beating up welts............................................................................. Trimming welts________ ______ _________________ _____ ____ Filling bottoms.................................................. ............................. Cutting out outsoles....................................................................... Tempering outsoles....................... .......*______________________ Skivmg outsoles............................................................................... Tacking on and fitting outsoles.................................................... Molding outsoles............................................................................. Cutting out heel and top lifts....................................................... Tempering heel and top lifts........................................................ Cuttmg and turning outsole channels____ _________________ Sewing shanks to welts................................................................. . Sewing outsoles to welts.................................... ........................... Cementing and closing channels and leveling bottoms______ Fastening heel seats...................................................................... Nailing heel lifts together.............................................................. Nailing on heels............................................................................... Driving slugs in heels________ ________ _______ ____________ Trimming edge of heels.................................................................. Cutting down breast of heels............. .......................................... Trimming edge of soles________ ____ _________ _____________ Dividing and setting up stitches................................................. Filing and scouring edge of heels............................................ . Blacking, burnishing, and beading heels....................... ............ Blacking and burnishing edge of soles_______ ______________ Scraping and scouring bottoms and heel tops_______________ Staining and polishing bottoms..................... ........... ................. Striping soles and blacking heel, tops, and shanks.................. Burnishing soles, heel, tops, and shanks................................... . Blacking, treeing, cleaning, and polishing uppers and clean ing edge of soles. Pulling out lasts___________________________________________ Inserting laces......................... ..................... . ................. . . . _____ Cutting out sock linings_______ ________________________ ___ Inserting sock linings______________________________________ •____ Total time and labor costs............................................... . Water basin and sponge___ Knife and pattern.. Hammer and last................. .. Knife and channel iron______ Knife pattern_______ ___ Knife and skiving board.___ Knife and board..................... . Knife and skiving board____ Hammer and lapstone............ Hammer, pincers, knife, etc.. Awl, knife, damp, pincers, and hammer. Pincers............................................................. Hammer, peaning iron, and knife. Welt knife.................................................. . Hammer and knife....................................... Knife and pattern.......................................... Water basin and sponge........................... . . Knife and skiving board.............................. Hammer, knife, and last_________ ______ Hammer and last........................................... Knife and pattern.......................................... Water basin and sponge............................... Dividers and knife......................................... Round awl, hammer, strap, etc.................. Square, awl, hammer, strap, etc................ Brush, hammer, and long stick.................. Hammer and awl........................................... .....d o ............................................................... ____do............................................................... ____do............................................................... Hammer, shave, and knife......................... Hammer and knife........................................ Knife, edge plane, and edge glass........ ....... Flat awl........................................................... Rasp, file, and sandpaper............................ Brush, lamp, and burnishing iron............. do. Edge glass and buffer................. . Sponge and rubbing bone.......... . Sponge............................................. Lamp and burnishing iron........ . Sponge, cloth, brush, and stick.. Last hook............................................ None used........................................... Knife, cutting board, and pattern. Brush................................................... HAND METHOD. 143 W E L T , LACE SHOES, SINGLE SOLES, SOFT B O X TOES. data have been conformed to 100 pairs for ready comparison with the more modern method of producworking 10 hours per day in 1863, produced these shoes.] HAND M ETH OD. Per sons necesMotive sary Num power. on ber one ma sex. chine. H and.. — do__ -.d o .„ -d o _ _ . . _do__ -d o .. „_d o_—-d o .„ _do_—-do_. —-d o .—,do__ -d o -.d o -. __ _do__ „ _do__ — d o .. -d o -.d o — „ .do— —.do— „ -do— „ .do— — d o -. -d o —-do__ — do-_ — do__ —-do_. _.-do__ — do— do— —-do._ — do__ — do_. do__ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. —-do__ — do— — do-_-do__ —-do__ -_-d o_. — do__ — do__ —-do__ —-do_-.d o — — do— __do_ _ —-do__ — do__ — do__ ---d o ._ —-do— — do_. _--do__ —-do— -.d o -. — do— d o .. — do— —-do_. „ -d e .-J d O —-do._ -do__ — do— — d o -. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. „ .d O -_ —-d o .. —-do_. — do_. 1 1 1 1 1M . 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. Employees at work on the unit. Occupation. Shoemaker _ ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ____ do___________________________ ........ do.................................................. ........ do................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do................................ ............... ........ do.................................................. ____ do............................................ . ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do............................................. . ........ do................. ............................... ........ do.................................................. ........ do................................................ . ........ do.................................................. ___ dn „ . . . ____ ........ do.................................................. ........ do— ............................................ ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do.................................................. ........ do............ .......... .......................... Age. Time worked. Pay of labor. Bate. Per— Labor cost. 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 A. 91 33 8 5 16 8 8 16 8 16 33 60 25 5 100 50 16 25 25 8 8 133 50 50 16 3 1 5 6 8 8 25 3 16 3 116 40.0 20.0 20.0 .0 40.0 20.0 20.0 40.0 20.0 40.0 20.0 .0 .0 .0 .0 .0 40.0 .0 .0 20.0 20.0 20.0 .0 .0 40.0 20.0 40.0 .0 40.0 20.0 20.0 .0 20.0 40.0 20.0 40.0 $2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Day____ — .do......... ...d o ......... ...d o ......... — do......... — do........ — do........ ...d o ........ —.do........ — .do......... - . d o ........ - ..d o ........ — .do......... — .do........ —.d o......... —.do......... — do........ —.do......... — do......... .. .d o ........ ...d o ........ ...d o ......... — .do......... — .do____ —.d o........ —.do......... - . d o ......... - - d o ......... — do........ - - d o ........ — do......... — do........ — do........ - - d o ......... —.do......... — do......... $22.9167 8. 3333 2. 0833 1. 2500 4.1667 2.0833 2.0833 4.1667 2.0833 4.1667 8.3333 12.5000 6.2500 1.2500 25.0000 12.5000 4.1667 6.2500 6.2500 2.0833 2.0833 33.3333 12.5000 12.5000 4.1667 .8333 .4167 1.2500 1.6667 2.0833 2.0833 6.2500 .8333 4.1667 .8333 29.1667 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 98 2 8 8 25 8 6 16 11 5 13 3 16 50 150 25 16 25 25 8 53 5 50 33 8 8 16 21 20 16 33 16 .0 .0 20.0 20.0 .0 20.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 .0 20.0 20.0 40.0 .0 .0 . .0 40.0 .0 .0 20.0 20.0 .0 .0 20.0 20.0 20.0 40.0 40.0 .0 40.0 20.0 40.0 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 —.d o........ —.do......... —.do......... - - d o ......... — do......... .. .d o ......... - - d o ......... — do......... - - d o ......... —-do......... — .do........ —-do......... __ do......... — do......... — do......... — do......... ...d o ........ —.do......... — do......... ...d o ........ ...d o ......... —-do......... — do......... —.do......... - - d o ........ — .do........ ...d o ......... .. .d o ......... — do........ —.do......... - - d o ......... — .do........ 24.5000 .5000 2.0833* 2.0833 6.2500 2.0833 1.6667 4.1667 2.9167 1.2500 3.3333 .8333 4.1667 12.5000 37.5000 6.2500 4.1667 6.2500 6.2500 2.0833 13.3333 1.2500 12.5000 8.3333 2.0833 2.0833 4.1667 5.4167 5.0000 4.1667 8.3333 4.1667 3 20.0 5 .0 5 .0 3 20.0 1,831 40.0 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 —.do......... „ .d o ......... „ - d o ........ ...d o ......... 36 36 36 36 m. .8333 1.2500 1.2500 .8333 458.18§4 ru TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX A. Unit 7 1 .—SHOES: 100 PAIRS M E N ’S M E D IU M G R AD E, C A L F , [Data covering the production of 1,500 pairs of shoes were secured, but in the presentation herewith made duction shown in the hand method for this unit. Three hundred and seventy-one MACHINE METHOD. Work done. Selecting and sorting upper stock................................ Cutting out vamps.......................................................... Cutting out quarters....................................................... Cutting out tips............................................................... Cutting out linings.......................................................... Cutting out sock linings................................................. Cutting out trimmings................................................... Perforating toe tips......................................................... Cutting out doublers to quarters................................. Overseeing upper-cutting department........................ Sorting vamps.................................................................. Sorting quarters............................................................... Throating vamps............................................................. Tying parts in bunches................................................. Marking vamps for tips................................................. Selecting doublers for quarters..... ........ . ..................... Skiving vamps............................................................ Skiving tips......... . ........................................................... Skiving doublers.........._.................................................. Skiving trimmings.......................................................... Skiving quarters.............................................................. Matching and marking parts for stitching room___ Marking linings...................... : ................. ..................... Pasting facings to lining pieces..................................... Sewing facings to linings.-—**— , ............................... Marking places for second-row stitching..................... Folding top of quarters................................................. Sewing second rows...................... ................................. Sewing back seam of quarters....................................... Making linings and sewing on back stays_________ Sewing linings to quarters............................................. Cementing linings and turning tops............................ Trimming edges of uppers............................................. Sewing around tops........................................................ Fastening eyelets............................................................. * Sewing stays on back seam of quarters....................... Blacking edge of vamps............................... ; ................ Cementing doublers to vamps................ ..................... Sewing tips to vamps..................................................... Sewing back seam of vamps........................ . ................ Rubbing down baek seams............................................ Cementing vamps to quarters and putting on stays Sewing vamps to quarters.............................................. Lacing uppers for lasting___ : ....................................... Rubbing down top seams.......................: ..................... Barring toe linings........................................................... Overseeing fitting and stitching department............. Cutting leather into strips for outsoles........................ Rolling outsole strips...................................................... Cutting out outsoles.............. ........... ............................ Sorting outsoles................................................................ Tying up outsoles............................................................ Overseeing sole-leather cutting department............... Skiving outsoles............................................................... Tempering outsoles.........—............................................ Rounding outsoles.......................................................... Beveling edge ofoutsoles— - __ _______________ ___ Molding outsoles...................................... ...................... Cementing outsoles...................................................... Cutting out insoles......................................................... Sorting insoles..................... —......................................... Tying up insoles.............................................................. Skiving insoles.................................................................. Rounding insoles__;__________________ ____________ Channeling insoles „ ...................................................... Cutting across insoles.................................................... Machine, implement, or tool used. None used.............................................. Knives, cutting boards, and patterns. ........do........................................................ ........ do........................................................ ........ do.........................._............................ Mallets, dies, and blocks...................... ........do........................................................ Mallets, punches, and blocks............... Knives, cutting boards, and patterns. None used................................................ ........do........................................................ ........do........................................................ Knives, cutting boards, and patterns. None used................................................ Tip marker.............................................. None used................................................ Skiving machines................................... ........do........................................................ ........ do....................................................... — —do........................................................ ........do........................................................ Pencil............................................... . Stamps................................................ — Brushes..................................................... Sewing machines.................................... Markers_________ _____________ ____ Folding sticks.......................................... Sewing machines............................. . ........do— ................................................... ........do................................................... . ........do.................•_..................................... Brushes and turning irons............. . Under-trimming sewing machines.... ........do........................................................ Gong punches and eyelet machines— Sewing machines.................................... Brushes.................................................... ___ __do_— ............................................ . Sewing machines......... .......................... ........do........................................................ Seam-rubbing machines............. .......... Hammers and brushes.......................... Double-needle sewing m achines...... None used.................................... ......... Rubbing-irons..................................... Sewing machines............................... . None u se d ................. ............................ Stripping machine................................. Rolling-machine..................................... Sole-cutting machine.:.......................... Sorting table........................................... None used............................................... ........do— .............................................. Skiving machine________ ___________ Water tank and rack.................... ........ Sole-rounding machine....................... Feather-edging machine........................ Molding machine.................................. Brush........................................................ Sole-cutting machines............................ Noneused................................................ ___ :dO— ................•-....................... ......... Skiving machine................................. . . Sole-rounding machine................... ...... Channeling machines_____ _________ Knife......................................................... MACHINE METHOD. 145 W E L T , LACE SHOES, SINGLE SOLES, SOFT B O X TOES. these data have been conformed to 100 pairs for ready comparison with the more primitive method of prodifferent persons working 10 hours per day in 1895 produced these shoes.] MACHINE METHOD. Employees at work on the unit. Per sons neces Motive sary Num power. on ber one and ma sex. chine. Pay of labor. Occupation. Age. Ti me worked. h. — do— ...d o __ ...d o — — do__ — do__ — do__ — do__ — do__ ...d o — — do__ ...d o — ...d o __ — do__ Steam. ...d o — ...d o — ...d o __ ...d o __ Hand.. — do__ ...d o __ Steam. Hand. ...d o __ Steam . ...d o __ . . . d o... . . . d o ... Hand. Steam. . . . d o... — do— — do— Hand. — do— Steam. . . . do— ...d o __ Hand. Steam. Hand. ...d o __ Steam. ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i l Steam — do— ...d o __ Hand. ...d o .— i l l l l Steam Hand I Steam. — d o... ...d o __ Hand. SteamHand . . . do— Steam. ...d o __ _ _ d 0__ Hand. i l l l l l l — l i l 1 M. 5 M. 7 M. 2 M. 2 M. 3 M. 3 M. 2 M. 2 M. 1 M. 2 M. 1 M. 2 M. 2 M. 1 M. 1 M. 2 M. 2 M. 1 M. 2 M. 2 M. 1 M. 3 F. 3 F. 3 F. 3 F. 3 F. 3 F. 2 F. 6 F. 3 F. 6 F. 6 F. 6 F. 4 M. 6 F. 2 M. 3 F. 3 F. 2 F. 2 M. 2 F. 12 F. 3 F. 2 M. 2 F. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1M. 1 M. 1M . 1M . 2 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1M . 2M . 1M . TTpper-stnek selector _. Vamp cutters.................................... Quarter cutters................................. Tip cutters........................................ Lining cutters................................... Sock-lining cutters........................... Trimming cutters............................ Tip punchers and scallopers.......... Quarter-lining cutters...................... Foreman____ __________ ________ Vamp sorters Quarter sorter................................... Vamp tbroaters................................ Upper bunchers............................... Tip marker........................................ Matcher............................................. Vamp skivers.................................... Tip skivers........................................ Doubler skiver................................. Trimming skivers............................ Quarter skivers................................. Distributer........................................ Lining stampers............................... Facing pasters................................... Facing stitchers................................ Second-row markers........................ Folders............................................... Second-row stitchers........................ Top closers........................................ Lining makers................................... Closers-on.......................................... Cementers and turners................... Upper edge trimmers..................... Top stitchers............... .................... Eyeleters............................................ Stayers............................................... Vamp blackers............................ — Vamp cementers............................... Tip stitchers...................................... Vamp closers..................................... Seam rubbers.................................... Vamp cementers............................... Vampers............................................ T,ast. lnnp.rs ... .. Seam rubbers...............................— Lining barrers................................... Foreman _ _ _ Ootenle-pt.nek stripper . T , Outsole-strip roller........................... Outsole cutter................................... Outsole sorter.................................... Outsole buncher........................ ....... Foreman __ __ Outsole skiver___________________ Outsole temperer.............................. Outsole rounder................................ Feather edger.................................... Outsole molder________ _____ ___ Outsole cementer.............................. Insole cutters................................. — Tnsole sorter _ . _ Insole buncher........................... ....... Tnsnle skiver ., r __ Insole rounder................................... Insole channelers______ _________ Insole slasher..................................... * Bate $1,300. Labor cost. Bate. 37 28-40 27-45 29-33 24,26 17-22 17-22 26,30 22,25 37 31,36 38 25,40 30,35 27 30 19,27 20,25 29 22,30 26,32 31 17-20 20-25 21-26 18-20 18-20 20-25 20,25 18-25 18-25 20-25 20-34 20-34 18-25 25-30 22,25 18-22 20-30 20,25 20,25 20,25 25-40 18-20 18,20 18,20 37 60 55 25 30 30 60 40 40 35 45 45 75 33,35 35 35 35 28 28 18 * Bate $1,250. Per— m. (0 Year........ $0.0692 10.0 3 16.7 $0.27* H our___ .9015 4' 35.3 .22* ...d o ......... 1.0324 .25 ...d o _____ .3279 1 18.7 .25 ...d o . . . . 53.6 .2233 32.0 .0667 .12* ...d o _____ .12* ...d o _____ .1792 1 26.0 .25 ...d o ......... .3279 1 18.7 .12* ...d o ......... 1 18.7 .1640 Year........ 30.0 0) .2076 49.2 .30 Hour____ .2460 .25 ...d o ......... 39.3 .1638 1 18.7 .25 — do......... .3279 .3935 .30 — do_____ 1 18.7 .22* — do......... 20.0 .0750 .22* — do......... 20.0 .0750 49.2 .20 ...d o ......... .1640 49.2 .17* ...d o ......... .1435 39.3 .17* — do......... . 1146 49.2 .22* ...d o ......... .1845 49.2 .25 ...d o ......... .2050 39.3 .1638 .25 ...d o ......... 1 36.7 .15 ...d o ......... .2418 1 36.7 .15 — do......... .2418 1 56.0 .12* — do......... .2417 .12* 58.0 — do......... .1208 .2015 .12* ...d o ......... 1 36.7 .2418 .15 ...d o ......... 1 36.7 .4 1 .15 ...d o ......... .1510 3 52.0 .15 ...d o ......... .5800 1 56.0 .3093 .16 ...d o ......... .5800 .15 . . . do___ _ 3 52.0 17.4 .0464 .16 — do......... .5723 3 34.6 .16 — do_____ .4588 .17* ...d o ......... 2 37.3 .6573 .17 ...d o ....... ^ 3 52.0 49.2 .15 __.do......... .1230 .2015 1 36.7 .12* ...d o ......... .2579 1 36.7 .16 ...d o _____ .25 ...d o ......... .2563 1 1.5 .1538 1 1.5 .15 ...d o ......... .4 .1258 .12* ...d o ......... 1 1.9333 .25 — do......... 7 44.0 1 56.0 .1933 .10 ...d o _____ .1475 59.0 .15 ...d o _____ .1281 1 1.5 .12* ...d o ......... Year____ .2662 40.0 (2) Hour .0787 23.6 .20 15.9 .0530 .20 ...d o _____ .25 — do------ .1638 39.3 .1092 26.2 .25 __ do___ __ .0492 11.8 .25 — do......... (3) Year........ .3195 40.0 Hour____ .0579 13*9 .25 .25 ...d o _____ .0246 5:9 .1229 29.5 .25 ...d o _____ . 22* — do_____ .0885 23.6 .0521 13.9 . 22* ...d o _____ .0819 .12* — do_____ 39.3 .1640 49.2 .20 ...d o ........ .0821 19.7 .25 ...d o _____ .0821 19.7 .25 — do_____ .0492 11.8 .25 ...d o ____ .25 — do;.___ .1171 28.1 1 18.7 .22* . . do .2951 .0868 .15 — do_____ 34.7 1 Bate $1,500. 146 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX A. U n it 71^-SHOES: 100 PAIRS M E N ’S M E D IU M G R AD E, C A L F , M A C H IN E M K t JUOD—Costiouod. Work done. Machine, implement, or tool used. Tying and bunching insoles----------------Tempering insoles...................................... Turning up insole channels____________ Tempering heel stock................................ Skiving heel stock-------------------------------Rolling heel stock..................................... Cutting out heel lifts........................ ........ Pasting and nailing heel lifts together.. Cutting out rands...................................... Curling and shaping rands...................... Tacking rands to heel............................... Cutting off rand ends................................ Compressing and molding heels............. Cutting leather into strips for heel tops. Tempering top lift stock.......................... Skiving top-lift stock_________ ________ Rolling top-lift stock................................. Cutting out top lifts................................. Sorting top lifts.......................................... Sorting and arranging counter stock___ Cutting out counters-----------. . . . ---------- None used................................ Sponge and water basin........ Channel-turning machine... Water tank.............................. Skiving machine____ ______ Rolling machine...................... Mallet, die, and block........... Hammers, Inrushes, and dies. Snlitting mftehinA__________ Rand-curling machine.......... Rand-fastening machine____ Lever and knife-..................... Heel-compressing machine.. Stripping machine.................. Water tank____ ___________ Skiving machine_____ _____ Rolling machine..................... Cutting machine-___ ______ None used____ ____________ ........d o .................... .................. Counter-cutting machines... Skiving counters to thickness________________ . . . . . . ___ ____ Skiving bottom edge of counters___________________. . . . . . . . . Skiving bottom ana top of counters_______________ . . . . . . . . . Skiving top edge of counters......................... ....... ........... . . . . . . . Skiving ends of counters______________ _______________ _____ Skiving ridges (left by machines) off counters..-------- ---------Scouring counters..____ _______________________ . . . ________ Rolling counters....... ........... ................................... . . . . . . . --------Molding counters....______ . . . . __________ . . . . . . . . . . — Skiving machines. ....... do------------------ Overseeing countej>mhlding department. Sorting counters___________ ______ . . . . . . None used. ........do__ _ ------ do.................................. Spokeshaves and clamps. Buffing machines_______ Rolling machines_______ Molding machines........ .. Overseeing counter-sorting department____ . . . . . ........... ........ Firing boiler.______________________________________________ Inserting counters, shank pieces, and insoles and pulling uppers over lasts. Drawing uppers over lasts and tacking to insoles. Stringing to e s...________________________________ Pulling out tacks.... Cutting leather into strips for welts. Scarfing ends of welt strips..___ ________ strips. Cutting strips to uniform width for welting. Skiving welt strips to uniform thickness______ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cutting welting into uniform lengths__________ . . . . . . . . . . . . . Winding welting on reels______ _______ _________ . . . . . . . ___ Furnishing power for making welting------------------------- . . . . . . Firing boiler................................................................................. . Grooving and beveling w e lts.................. .......... .— . . . . . . . . . . Sewing writs to uppers and insoles-------- ---------------- . . . . . . . . . Trimming writs.-------------------- ----------- . . . . ----- . . . — . . . . . . . . Beating up writs.. Fillingbottoms.. . Laying outsoles__________________________ Pitting and gauging outsoles...:---------------------- . . . . . . Cutting channels in outsoles___ ;______ _________. . . . . Turning outsole channels______ . . . . __________ . . . . . . . Sewing outsoles to writs............................. ...................... Fastening heel seats......................................................... Handing out heel seats and rubbing down stitches.... Engine____ ____________ _____________ ____ Shovel, poker, etc.............................._............ Lasting jacks, pincers, etc------------------------Lasting machines, pincers, etc...................... None used.......................................—_______ Tack pullers----------------------- --------------------Knife and gauge............................................... Scarfing machine.____ ______. . . . . . . . . . . ____ Welt-cutting machine.......... .......................... Brushes and mallets........................ .............. Skiving machine............. ............................. Tape measure and knife................................. Reel.................. ................................................ Engine_____ . . . . . . _________ ________. . . . . . Shovel, poker, etc........ ..................... .............. Welt-grooving machines................................. Writ-sewing machines......... ................. ......... Writ trimmer___ . . . .......................... ............ Welt-beating machines................................... Knives............................................................. Sole-laying machines— .................................. Knives and gauges— ................................... Channeling machine...................................... Channel twiners....... ....................................... Sole-sewing machines.................................— Wire grip-fastening machines........................ Randing-out knives and rubsticks------------- MACHINE METHOD. 147 W E L T , L A C E SHOES, SINGLE SOLES, SOFT B O X TOES—Continued. M AC H IN E M E TH O D —Continued.4 Per sons neces Motive sary Num power. on ber one and ma sex. chine. Employees at work on the unit. Pay of labor. Occupation. Age. Time worked. h. Hand. ...J o __ Steam. Hand. Steam. ...d o ... Hand. ...d o __ Steam. — do__ d o... F oot.. Steam. ...d o ... Hand. Steam. — do__ ...d o ... Hand. ...d o ... Steam. ...d o ... __ do__ . . . do— ...d o ... ...d o __ Hand. Steam. . . . d o... ...d o __ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i l i i l l l l l l Hand. Steam. Hand. — do__ i l l (<) Hand. . . . d o... ...d o __ Steam. ...d o ... Hand. Steam. Hand. —.do__ Steam. Hand. Steam. __ do__ Hand. Steam. Hand. Steam. Hand. __ do__ ...d o __ Steam. — d o... Hand. l l i l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l l 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 4 F. 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 1M . 2 M. 2 M. 2 M. 1M . 2 M. 1M . 2 F. 1 M. 5 M. 1M . 2 M. 8 M. 2M. 2 M. 2 M. 3 M. 1M . 1 M. 1M . 1M . IF . IF . 1M . 1 M. 1 M. 8 M. 8 3 4 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 10 6 6 6 3 6 6 6 8 2 4 M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. M. 4Steam and hand. Labor cost. Rate. Tnsolfi himehfir . . ___ 38 Insole temperer.... ............................ 38 Channel turner................................. 18 Heel-stock temperer........................ 60 Heel-stock skiver.............................. 60 Heel-stock roller............................... 60 Heel-lift cutter.............. .................. 28 Heel builders..................................... 30-40 Rand entter_ _ _ . ___ 26 Rand curler....................................... 26 Rand fastener 22 17 Rand trimmer................................... Heel compressor............................... 60 25 Top-lift stock stripper..................... 25 Top-lift stock temperer__________ 25 Top-lift stock skiver_____________ 25 Top-lift stock roller______________ 25 Top-lift cutter................................... Top-lift, sorter. ____ 28 Counter-stock sorter.......... ........... 35 Counter cutters................................. 23,40 23,40 23,40 do . ... " " I d o — ” ____ — — — — — — 40 23,40 23 Counter skivers..________________ 24,35 ____ do___________________ ___ __ 33 28-30 36 ........ do.................................................. 22,24 ........ do................................................. 25-40 Counter buffers . . . 19,21 Counter rollers _ _ _ 22 Counter molders_____ ___________ 26,40 d o ______________ _________ 26,40 ........ do.................................................. 26 Foreman. . ... _ 30 Counter sorter _ _ ___________ 45 23 Counter sorter’s helper__________ 25 17 Foreman .. ....... . _ 45 Engineer............................................ 33 Fireman............. ............... ............... 45 Pullers-over.... .................................. 33-40 Lasters............. ................................. Toe stringers .. _ _ Tack pullers...................................... Welt stripper____ _______________ Welt scarfer........ ............................. Welt cutter........................................ Welt cementers................................ Welt skiver....................................... Welt measurer................................. Welt reeler........................................ Engineer________________________ Fireman............................................. Welt groovers ........ Welt stitchers . Welt trimmers.................................. Welt beaters................ .................... Bottom fillers................................... Outsole layers................................... Outsole gaugers................................ OpfsolA ehannelers _ ., Channel turners............................... Outsole stitchers............................... Heel-seat fasteners........................... Heel-seat randers.............................. 33-40 17-20 16-18 26 30 35 26 32 30 26 33 45 28,35 30-40 25-40 25-40 25-40 42-46 38-42 38-42 16-18 35-40 20,22 35-41 1 2 1 P er- m. 3.9 19.7 19.7 7.9 13.9 13.9 38.3 8.9 3.0 5.9 32.8 19.7 27.6 3.9 2.0 2.0 2.0 7.9 7.9 9.1 18.3 18.3 18.3 9.1 18.3 9.1 17.5 9.1 45.7 9.1 18.3 13.2 13.7 18.3 18.3 27.4 9.1 9.3 9.1 9.1 8.8 5.9 9.1 1.9 1.9 5.17 $0.15 .12* .12* .17* .17* .17* .22* .50 2.50 2.50 1.75 1.25 1.25 2.00 1.75 1.75 1.75 2.25 2.50 2.00 2.75 2.25 2.00 1.83* 1.75 1.50 5.00 2.25 2.00 1.75 1.50 2.25 1.00 1.00 10.00 1.25 1.00 2.75 2.50 2.00 1.00 .75 3.00 2.75 1.50 4 } .07 4 5.17 J 1 59.3 1.50 1.25 2 37.3 11.5 .25 9.5 .15 4.3 .25 13.8 .15 1.9 .25 1.9 .25 6.3 .15 .1 2.50 .1 1.50 11.8 .20 3.50 6 15.8 1 58.0 l _30 1 58.0 .24 3 56.0 .20 1 58.0 3 43.5 .30 3.00 3 56.0 1.75 3 56.0 3.50 5 14.7 1.50 1 18.7 2.50 2 37.3 Hour $0.0098 — do......... .0410 — do......... .0410 — do......... .0230 — do......... .0405 — do_____ .0405 __ do......... .3686 100 pairs. .5000 Day .0125 . . .do......... .0246 ...d o _____ .0957 — do_____ .0410 ...d o ......... .0575 ...d o _____ .0130 .0058 — do_____ ...d o ......... .0056 — do_____ .0058 — do......... .0296 ...d o _____ .0329 ...d o _____ .0303 — do_____ .0839 — do_____ .0686 — do_____ .0610 ...d o _____ .0278 — do_____ .0534 — do......... .0228 W e e k .... .0243 Day____ .0341 — do_____ .1523 — do_____ .0265 . . -do_____ .0458 — do_____ .2745 .0223 ...d o ......... ...d o ......... .0305 W eek.0508 Day .0571 .0152 ...d o _____ — do_____ .0426 .0379 — do_____ — do_____ .0303 . . -do_____ .0147 — do_____ .0074 ___do_____ .0455 .0087 ...d o _____ .0048 ...d o _____ Pair_____ 7.0006 .2983 D ay......... .3277 ...d o ......... Hour.— .0479 .0238 ...d o ......... .0179 ...d o ......... .0345 ...d o ......... .0079 ...d o ......... .0079 — do_____ .0158 — do......... .0004 D ay......... .0003 ...d o ......... .0393 Hour....... Day_____ 2.1922 QA y<Ulo«. rvQirQ - f .6250 £r± \ .6250 1.0000 ...d o ......... .8333 ...d o ......... 1,2500 ...d o ......... Day_____ 1 1800 .6883 ...d o ......... ...d o ......... * 1.8358 .1968 — do......... .6554 __ do_____ TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX A, 148 U nit 7 1 .-S H O E S : 100 PAIRS M E N 'S M E D IU M G R A D E . CALF, M A C H IN E M E T H O D —Concluded. Work done. Machine, implement, or tool used. Cementing and closing channels. Leveling bottoms.......................... Pulling out lasts!........................... Nailing on heels. Driving slugs in heels.......................................................... .......... Relasting shoes................................................................................. Trimming edge of heels................................................................... Cutting down breast of heels and pounding up heel seats— Trimming edge of soles................................................................... Making sole and heel joints....................................................... . Dividing and setting up stitches.................................................. Blacking and burnishing edge of soles......................................... Scouring breast of heels, ............................................................... Scouring edge of heels...................................................... . ............ Blacking edge of heels........... ................................: ....................... Burnishing edge of heels, .............................................................. Beading heel seats, ................................................. ....................... Scouring heel tops. ......................................................................... Blacking heel tops, ......................................................................... Polishing heel tops............................................................ .............. Scraping blacking off nail heads........................ .......................... Scouring forepart of bottoms......................................................— Scouring shanks............................................................................... Staining and brushing forepart of bottoms, .............................. Gummmg and polishing forepart of bottoms, .......................... Marking and blacking shanks_________________ __ __ ___ Striping and burnishing forepart of bottoms'............................. Burnishing shanks— ....................................... ............................. Polishing forepart of bottoms........................................................ Polishing shanks_____________ __________________ _____ Waxing and brushing shanks. ................................... ................. Stampmg firm name on bottoms................................... ............. Fastening lacing studs................................ ................................... Cleaning edge of soles....................................... ........... ................. Greasing, rubbing and treeing uppers......................................... Inserting sock linings, .......................... .................... ........... ....... Dressing and polishing uppers, ................................................... Cleaning shoes and inserting laces__ . . . . ................. ................. Brushing heels and edge of soles................................................... Tying shoes in pairs, ...................................................... ........... Overseeing finishing department_____ ________________ ____ Overseeing bottoming department. ........................................... Packing shoes and marking boxes................................................ Keeping machinery in order. ....................................................... Furnishing power............................................................................ Firing boiler........................................................................... *____ Cementing and pounding machines. Leveling machines, hammer, etc___ Last hooks and spindles...................... Heel-nailing machines. Wire grip-slugging machines............ ........... Lasts and spindles........................................... Heel-trimming machines_________________ Heel-breasting machines and hammers___ Edge-trimming machines and rand knives. Knives and hammers...................................... Flat awls............................................................ Edge-setting machines and brushes_______ Heel-scouring machines.................................. ........d o , .............................................................. Brushes.............................................................. Heel-burnishing machines.............................. Heel-beading machines................................... Bottom-buffing machines, ............................ Brush,............................................................... Brush wheel., .................................................. Knife................................................................. Bottom-buffing machines, ............................ Shank-buffing machines................................. Brushes and brush wheels.............. ............... ___ do................................................................. Knives and brushes......................................... Stripers, burnishing irons, and lamps_____ Buraishing-irons, lamps, and knives___ Felt wheels. .................................................. ........do................................................................. Brush wheels..................................................... Stamp, ............................................................ . Lace-stud machine............. ............................ Cloths, lamps, and irons................................ Shoe trees, brushes, etc___________ ________ Brushes.............................................................. Sponges and cloths.......................................... Cloths..................................... .......................... Brush wheels and cloths..... .......................... None used.......................................................... ........do......................... ....................................... ........ do..................... ...................................... .. Hammers, stencils, brushes, etc................... Machinists’ tools.............................................. Engine........................... ............................... .. Shovel, poker, etc............................................. Watching establishment. None used. Total time and labor costs. 149 MACHINE METHOD, W E L T , LACE SHOES, SINGLE SOLES. SOFT B O X TOES—Concluded. M A C H IN E M E T H O D —Concluded. Employees at work on the unit. Perneces Motive sary Num power. on ber one and ma sex. chine. Pay of labor. Occupation. Age. Time worked. h. Steam. (4) Hand. ...d o ... Hand. Steam. do . ...d o ... Hand. ...d o ... (<) Steam. ...d o __ Hand. Steam. — do__ — do__ Hand. Steam. Hand. Steam. „„-do__ (0 (*) Hand. — do._ _—do_. Steam. ...d o ._ ...d o _ . Hand. Steam. Hand. ...d o __ ...d o __ _..do__ ...d o ._ (*) 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Hand. Hand. ...d o .. Steam. Hand. — .1 ___ 1 ....1 ____1 2 M. 3 M. 3 M. /3 M . \3 M . 3 M. 2 M. 3 M. 3 M. 4 M. 3 M. 6 M. 5 M. 2 M. 2 M. 2 M. 2 M. 2 M. 2 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. 4 M. 2 M. 3 M. 2 M. 3 M. 3 M. 3 M. 2 M. 2 M. 2 M. 1 M. 2F. 4 M. 20 M . 3 F. 5 F. 4 F. 2 M. 3 F. 1 M. 1 M. 5 M. 1 M. 1 M. 1 M. J1 M . \l M . Cementers and channel layers___ Bottom levelers................................ Last pullers....................................... Heel nailers....................................... Heel nailers’ helpers........................ Heel sluggers..................................... Belasters............................................ Heel trimmers.................................. TTftftl hrp.flstp.rs Edge trimmers................................. Joint makers ___ . Stitch dividers.................................. Edge setters...................................... H p.p1 scourers _ r . _ ____ Heel blackers..................................... Heel finishers-.................................. Heel headers...................................... Heel-top buffers................................ Heel-top blacker............................... Heel-top polisher........ .................... Heel-top scraper............................... Forepart buffers................................ Shank buffers....... ............................ Bottom stainers................................ Bottom polishers.............................. Shank markers and blackers.......... Forepart stripers .............................. Shank burnishers............................. Forepart polishers............................ Shank polishers................................ Shank fakers.................................. . Monogrammer. ............................... Stud fasteners................................... Edge cleaners.................................... Treers___________________________ Sock liners......................................... Dressers.............................................. Cleaners and lacers.......................... Edge polishers................................... Strap stringers_________ _________ Foreman_____ _______ __________ Packers-................................................ M a ch in is t _ _ - Engineer................................................. Fireman.................................................. Watchman ............................................. rin 19,40 30-40 20-21 25-27 16-19 21-25 30,40 25-30 20-25 35-40 45-50 20-25 35-40 20,25 38,55 17,20 32,38 20,30 42 17 25 17 32-45 21,24 38-41 25,27 38-42 25-29 33-55 42,50 32,40 42,50 38 20,25 32-38 30-40 25-35 20-26 22-30 17,20 20-25 35 30 26-29 45 30 40 50 50 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 13 1 3 2 1 3 236 4Steam and hand. Labor cost. Bate. Per— m. 18.7 58.0 58.0 58.0 58.0 58.0 18.7 58.0 58.0 37.3 58.0 56.0 16.7 1.5 18.7 10.2 1.5 1.5 1.5 39.3 39.3 39.3 24.6 49.2 38.3 5.6 22.0 22.0 38.3 54.6 49.2 1.5 39.3 18.7 27.5 6.7 36.7 13.3 25.0 58.7 36.7 40.0 40.0 20.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 6.3 1.50 3.00 1.50 3.25 1.00 2.50 2.00 .20 2.25' .50 2.50 1.75 .72 1.50 2.50 1.25 2.75 2.00 2.50 1.00 2.25 .75 2.50 2.25 2.50 2.00 1.25 1.50 2.50 2.25 2.00 2.00 1.50 1.40 2.00 2.50 1.40 1.50 1.25 1.00 1.00 (5) (V .15 2.50 3.00 1.75 1.75 1.50 D a y ____ $0.1968 — do......... .5900 .2950 ...d o ......... ...d o ......... .6392 .1967 — do......... .4917 — do......... — do_____ .2623 24 pairs— .8333 Day .4425 24 pairs. _ 2.0833 Day__ .4917 — do......... .6883 24 pairs. . 3.0000 D ay_____ .1538 — do......... .3279 — do......... .1463 — do......... .2819 — do......... .2050 — do......... .2563 ...d o ......... .0655 — do......... .1474 .0491 — do......... ...d o ......... .6025 ...d o _____ .1845 — do......... .4096 ...d o ......... .2187 ...d o _____ .1708 ...d o _____ .2050 — do......... .4096 .2048 — do......... ...d o ......... .1640 — do......... .2050 ...d o _____ .0983 ...d o ......... .1836 — do......... .4917 ...d o _____ 3.2779 ...d o ......... .2256 ...d o ------.4833 .3021 — do......... .0978 ...d o _____ ___do_____ .1612 Year........ .2556 __ do_____ .3195 Hour____ .5000 Day _____ .1667 ...d o _____ .2000 ...d o .......... .1167 ...d o .......... .1167 — do.......... .1000 59.5461 i50 TIME a n d l a b o r c o sts — a p p e n d ix b . APPENDIX 'B.— TIME AND LABOR COSTS IN MAKING 100 PAIRS OP SHOES IN 1016.1 In this appendix is presented a table showing the time cost and labor cost, b y occupations, in the manufacture of 100 pairs of welt shoes, the rate of wages or earnings per hour of the employee, and the number of pairs of shoes worked on per hour, by the employee, in a representative shoe factory. The table presents most forcibly the minute specialization of work in a modern shoe factory, the many hands through which a shoe passes in the course of manufacture, the great number of repetitions of a single operation in an hour, and the comparatively short time consumed, and the small labor cost in the making of a pair of shoes. The total time cost, as shown by the total at tne end of the table, for making 100 pairs of shoes is, in this establishment, 8,560.10 minutes, or 142.7 hours, and the total labor cost $36.7761. Reduced to a single pair of shoes, the time cost is 1 hour and 26 minutes, and the labor cost $0,368. One man in one hour makes seven-tenths of a pair of shoes. Under each department of the factory the occupations are given in the order of the operation. At the end of each department are shown the cost of “ daywork” and of “ organization.” The “ day work” includes operations that can not be carried under a piecerate system nor easily separated into specific individual operations. “ Organization” includes the work of superintendents, assistants, foremen, laborers, clerks, firemen, and others whose work is more or less general, the cost of which has been apportioned to the several departments according to the amount of time determined as devoted to each. The column “ Time cost” shows the time in minutes required for one person to perform the work of the occupation on 100 pairs of shoes. The “ labor cost” is the amount paid for the work done by the operator in the time given in the time-cost column. The hourly wages is the amount earned per hour by the employee in the occupation named. The number of pairs worked on per hour is the number of pairs of shoes for which the given operation is performed in one hour. To illustrate: The first operation in oraer of process in the upperleather department is that of “ tongue cutter. It requires 36.65 minutes for this operator to cut the tongues for 100 pairs of welt shoes of a given style, and for this work he is paid $0.1519. This amount is equivalent to an hourly rate of $0.2487, and, in one hour the operator will cut the tongues for 163.71 pairs of shoes. 1 Beproduced from Bulletin No. 232 of this bureau, pp. 165 to 169. M A N U F A C T U R IN G SH O E S IN 1916, 151 TIM E AND LABOR COST IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF WELT SIIOES RATE OF WAGES OR EARNINGS PER HOUR, AND NUMBER OF PAIRS WORKED ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, BY OCCUPATIONS. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and occupation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. UPPER-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. 36.65 44.00 29.38 17.10 10.19 6.65 14.62 3.21 3.21 33.01 9.77 2.42 2.04 5.65 4.58 $0.1519 . 1799 . 1200 .0720 .0417 .0242 .0534 .0117 .0117 .1200 .0266 .0067 .0833 .0333 .0167 $0.2487 .2453 .2451 .2526 .2455 .2183 .2192 .2187 .2187 .2181 .1634 .1661 .2441 .3536 .2188 2.52 1.56 151.93 119.05 8.26 36.65 9.17 21.77 3.06 1.22 3.36 6.21 2.42 6.21 1.56 1.22 1.56 7.86 2.07 6.19 2.52 3.44 199.88 242.70 .0092 .0042 .9963 .4865 .0225 .1333 .0333 .0792 .0083 .0033 .0092 .0167 .0067 .0167 .0042 .0033 .0042 .0250 .0075 .0225 .0092 .0125 .7299 1.0913 .2190 .1615 .3935 .2452 .1634 .2182 .2179 .2183 .1627 .1623 .1643 .1614 .1661 .1614 .1615 .1623 .1615 .1908 .2174 .2181 .2190 .2180 .2191 .2698 50.40 726.39 163.71 654.31 275.61 1,960.78 4,918.03 1,785.71 966.18 2,479.34 966.18 3.846.15 4,918.03 3.846.15 763.36 2,898.55 969.31 2,380.95 1,744.19 30.02 24.72 4.60 1.43 .66 .61 .83 19.65 .97 19.72 2.00 6.60 30.25 27.50 15.15 23.10 2.20 12.73 17.89 14.90 12.56 5.50 9.02 5.70 TaP^imm -y-j-r -r 2.34 Putters-away (tap)_________ _________ ______________ 2.25 InSnlegraders and skivers .. __ 12.58 Tnsnle-split sorters ^ 11.93 Insole grade painters _—r T TT.^ .63 Putters-away (insole) _ _ ^ __ _ 1.84 Insole casers _ r T ,, _ _ _ „ 6.73 Insole buffers _ _ _ , r. _ T T ^_ 7.33 Insole gem-duck sorters and putters-away 1.57 _____ __________ .Insole . . ______ gem-duck . . . . . . casers 4.70 .0188 .0052 .0024 .0022 .0030 .1250 .0035 .1075 .0100 .0300 .1240 .1500 .0620 .1260 .0100 .0425 .0975 .0475 .0400 .0175 .0450 .0233 .0096 .0113 .0400 .0650 .0020 •0067 •0275 •0300 .0050 .0192 .2452 .2182 .2182 .2164 .2167 .3817 .2165 .3271 .3000 .2727 .2460 .3273 .2455 .3273 .2727 .2003 .3270 .1913 .1911 .1909 .2993 .2453 .2462 .3013 .1907 .3269 .1905 .2185 .2452 .2456 .1911 •2451 1,304.35 4,195.80 9.090.91 9,836.06 7.228.92 305.34 6,185.57 304.26 3,000.00 909.09 198.35 218.18 396.04 259.74 % 727.27 471.33 335.38 402.68 477.71 1,090.91 665.19 1,052.63 2,564.10 2,666.67 476.95 502.93 9,523.81 3,260.87 891.53 818.55 3,821.66 1,276.60 Tongue cutters............................................................. — Eyelet-facing cntters, top section _ _._ Eyelet-lacing cutters^ toe section____________________ Backstay cutters___ ________________________________ Remnant sorters___________________________________ Eyelet-facing skivers, top section _ Eyelet-facing skivers’ toe section Tongue skivers , , _____ Backstay skivers _ Eyelet-facing camentars , Eyelet-facing sorters _ Tongue sorters. __ ... ___ __ _ Cloth folders and rollers____________________________ Cloth-lining end doufaler cutters . .. . .... ... . Lining casers n.. r__ __ Doubter casers, ,, ...... . . Packers . . . ... ... . . . ___ _. _ _____ Vamp and tip cotters ._ ....... Top cutters * . _ „ _ __ . . . Die distributors. _____ . Vamp sorters and casers _ Tip sorters and casers ...... _ . . . _ . _. ____ Top sorters and casers ... r. . _ Vamp painters and sizers _T Tip painters and sizers________________________________ Top painters and sizers_______________________________ Vamp reconnters _ __ . . Tip recounters________________________________________ Top reconnters. _ . _ _ Vamp tiers-np , . . . Tip tiers-np , r .. Toptiars-np .. n _,nT Refinishers . _ _ Tongue casers. _ . . . . . . . . Eyelet-facing casers _. Heel-stay casers. _. Backstay casers_ _ _ __._ .. _ .. ^ _ T m Daywork______________________________________ _____ Organization _ ______ _ _ _ 103.71 136.36 204.22 350.88 588.81 902.26 410.40 1.809.16 1.869.16 181.76 614.12 2,479.34 2,941.18 1.061.95 1,310.04 2.380.95 3,846.15 39.49 SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT. Ontsole-stock sorters, skivers, etc _ Side dippers_________ _______ ________ _______________ Pilers (near machine)_______ __________________ _____ Pilers (on machine) .. _ . _ . Cleaners-np (around machine) . _ Ontsole cutters. . . . Pilers (under machine) _ _ _ _ _ Insole cotters _ , Gem-dnck cutters, insole.. _ _ _ _ _ Bnrlap cutters, insole _ . Tap-stock sorters, skivers, etc. _ ___ _ Tap cutters ... _ _ T, . Top-lift stock sorters, skivers, etc , _ _ rr r Top-lift, cutters Box-toe cutters - - _____ _____ ... Ontsole graders and skivers. _ . ___t,_ Ontsole sorters r . __ Ontsole grade painters __ ^ ^ Tap graders and skivers , , .. Tap nutters , .. ._ . . T .. Tap sorters _ Tap casersT__n T _______ ,___ ______ _ ___ 152 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX B. TIME AND LABOR COST IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF WELT SHOES, RATE OF WAGES OR EARNINGS PER HOUR, AND NUMBER OF PAIRS WORKED ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, BY OCCUPATIONS—Continued. Department and occupation. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. SOLE-LEATHER DEPARTMENT—concluded. Putters-away (insole buckram).......................................... Insole buckram casers............................................................ Collectors and shippers......................................................... Box-toe skivers........................................ ............................. Box-toe sorters........................................................................ Counter fiber-edge trimmers................................................ Counter fiber strippers.......................................................... Counter cutters...................................................................... Counter stackers (for end trim)........................................... Counter-end trimmers........................................................... Counter skivers....................................................................... Counter temperers................................................................ Counter rollers.................... ................................................... Counter molders.................................................................... Dryer-box emptiers................................................................ Counter sorters....................................................................... Counter waterproofers........................................................... Putters-away (outsole)........................................ ;v_............ Outsole casers......................................................................... Outsole shippers..................................................................... Box-toe casers.......................................................................... Box-toe tiers-up....................................................................... Box-toe shippers..................................................................... Putters-away (counters)........................................................ Counter casers........................ ................*.............................. Counter shippers.................................................................... Daywork.................................................................................. Organization............................................................................ .52 6.73 1.65 5.62 4.35 3.30 2.83 5.50 2.36 2.47 2.62 .28 5.06 22.68 .92 7.68 .69 4.09 9.43 .24 3.67 1.70 .47 .28 4.48 .44 86.98 143.66 $0.0018 .0275 .0075 .0230 .0138 .0120 .0105 .0200 .0075 .0090 .0088 .0020 .0138 .0825 .0025 .0250 .0025 .0167 .0428 .0011 .0150 .0054 .0019 .0010 .0183 .0018 .3133 .7656 $0.2077 .2452 .2727 .2456 .1903 .2182 .2226 .2182 .1907 .2186 .2015 .4286 .1636 .2183 .1630 .1953 .2174 ..2450 .2723 .2750 .2452 .1906 .2426 .2143 .2451 .2455 .2161 .3198 11,538; 46 891.53 3,636; 36 1,067.62 1,379.31 1,818.18 2,120.14 1,090.91 2,542.37 2,429.15 2,290.08 21,428.57 1,185.77 264.55 6,521.73 781.25 8,695.65 1,466.99 636.27 25,000.00 1,634.88 3,529.41 12,765.96 21,428.57 1,339.29 13,636.36 68.98 41.77 58.65 167.17 13.44 5.66 4.72 9.03 8.80 3.44 2.75 8.66 6.73 5.70 5.70 48.73 58.99 .2400 .7600 .0550 .0180 .0150 .0288 .0400 .0125 .0075 .0275 .0275 .0233 .0233 .1840 .2924 .2455 .2728 .2455 .1908 .1907 .1914 .2727 .2180 .1636 .1905 .2452 .2453 .2453 .2266 .2974 102.30 35.89 446.43 1,060.07 1,271.19 664.45 681.82 1,744.19 2,181.82 692.84 891.53 1,052.63 1,052.63 123.13 101.71 22.91 11.45 22.91 27.42 53.35 27.59 22.91 22.91 25.28 53.35 13.09 68.72 53.05 53.51 39.28 41.09 29.21 15.27 114.58 76.42 39.28 95.99 223.58 40.74 26.19 45.83 .0625 .0416 .0833 .0625 .1250 .0666 .0625 .0625 .0625 .1250 .0416 .1875 .1875 .1458 .1250 .1250 .0938 .0416 .4166 .2083 .1250 .2917 .9166 .1668 .0833 .1250 .1637 .2180 .2182 .1368 .1406 .1448 .1637 ,1637 .1483 .1406 .1907 .1637 .2121 .1635 .1909 .1825 .1927 .1635 .2182 .1635 .1909 .1823 .2460 .2457 .1908 .1636 261.89 524.02 261.89 218.82 112.46 217.47 261.89 261.89 237.34 112.46 458.37 87.31 113.10 112.13 152.75 146.02 205.41 392:93 52.37 . 78* 51 152.75 62.51 26-84 147:28 229:10 130.92 HEEL DEPARTMENT. Heeling-stock skivers, sorters, etc................ i ..................... Heel builders......................................................................... Rough sorters................. ........................................................ Heel gougers............................................................................ Heel skivers.......................................................................... Heel compressors.................................................................... Heel sorters............................................... 1............................ Top-lift graders..................................... ................................. Top-lift skivers.................. . ..................... ............................. Top-lift compressors............................................................... Top-lift sorters........................................................................ Top-lift casers.................. ....................................................... Heel casers........................ ...................................................... Daywork.................................................... ........................... Organization........................................................................... MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT. Markers (for tips)................................. ................................. Vamp cut-off skivers...... ............. ........ .......... ........ ............ Heel-seam skivers.................................-•............................ . Vamp-extension pasters...................... ................................. Vamp doublers....................................................................... Side liners......................... ...................................................... Top skivers (corner of heel)................. ............................... Top skivers (at bottom)....................................................... Top doublers.......................................................................... Remforced-stay pasters....................... ............................... . Stencil liners.......................................................................... Lasting-tape stitchers___ : ................................................... Tip stitchers........................................................................ . Box-toe to vamp stitchers..................................................... Vampseamers........................................................................ Vamp stayers........ .......... .................... ................................. Top seamens_____ . . . __ 1.................... . . . ’........................... Top rubbers.......... ................................................................ Backstay stitchers____ ..................... ................................ Heel-stay stitchers.......... ___________ .'................................ Top-facing stitchers..........: ........................ .......................... Hyelet-facmg stitchers........................................................... Stitchers and trimmers............................. ........................... Eyeletters............................................................................... Lacers.......... ................... . . ; __________ ’.............................. Toe-lining seamers............... ................ . . . . _____________ MANUFACTURING SHOES IN 1916. 153 TIME AND LABOR. COST IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 100 PAIRS OF W ELT SHOES, RATE OF WAGES OR EARNINGS PER HOUR, AND NUMBER OF PAIRS WORKED ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, BY OCCUPATIONS—Continued. Department and occupation. Time cost of 100 pairs Labor cost (minutes). of 100 pairs. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT—continued. Vampers........................................................................ . Sizers-out........................................................................ Outsole shankers-out.................................................... Outsole size stampers.................................................. . Tap cementers ......................................................... Heel dippers (in waterproofing)................................ Tap scourers.................................................................. Outsole cementers......................................................... Outsole counters and craters...................................... Insole putters-up (for rounders)................................ Insole rounders.............................................................. Insole channelers........................................................... Insole-lip cutters (at toe).................... ........................ Insole dippers (in stiffener)......................................... Insole-lip turners........................................................... Insole-lip reinforcers..................................................... Insole scourers and size stampers.............................. Insole welt-line markers and casers........................... Insole formers (in cloth).:........................................... Insole-lip trimmers....................................................... Insole-lip straighteners................................................ Insole-lip stiffeners........................................................ Insole counters and casers........................................... Last casers-up................................................................ Insole tackers (to last)................................................. Insole trimmers (at heel)............................................. Last chalkers................................................................. Upper maters................................................................. Assemblers..................................................................... Box shellackers.............................................................. Vamp wetters (for pull-over)...................................... Pullers-over (Rex machine)........................................ Side lasters (C. H . M . machine)................................ Heel and toe lasters...................................................... Toe-tack pullers............................................................ Trimmers-out................................................................ Stiffeners................ ...................................................... Case assemblers............................................................. Checkers-out____________________________________ Tack pullers................................................................... Welters............................... ........................................... Side-tack pullers.......................................................... Inseam trimmers......................................................... Welt beaters.................................................................. Insole-tack knockers.........: .......................................... Stickers-in (shank)....................................................... Bottom fillers............................................................... Bottom cementers..................................................... . Sole layers...................................................................... Heel-seat nailers............................................................ Maters (for levelers)..................................................... Outsole rounders........................................................... Heel-seat rounders........................................................ Channel openers.......................................................... Stitchers........................................................................ Channel cementers....................................................... Channel layers.... .......................................................... Wheel stitchers............................................................. Upper-edge blackers..................................................... Levelers.......................................................................... Last pullers.................................................................... Last throwers (into bins)............................................ Heel tenders.................................................................. Heelers........................................................................... . Sluggers......................................................................... . Heel trimmers............................ .................................. Heel breasters............................................................... . Heel-breast scourers................................................... . Edge trimmers............................................................. . Kmfers-up (machine)................................................. . Heel scourers (first)...................................................... Edge setters.................................................................. . Edge brushers-up........................................................ . Stitch polishers............................................................. Heel scourers (second)................................................. 341.46 18.33 20.37 9.17 10.83 15.28 * 10.83 12.21 6.55 4.58 15.28 33.37 7.64 3.82 38.20 45.83 9.17 12.21 65.53 30.59 16.26 15.28 8.62 13.09 32.74 13.09 18.34 15.27 86.48 34.40 15.27 104.76 125.00 269.61 32.79 22.91 11.45 9.83 11.94 72.08 97.00 20.37 81.50 29.41 30.56 29.41 54.38 22.91 40.74 34.38 22.91 65.07 19.65 45.83 162.24 30.56 45.83 34.85 22.91 30.56 39.30 10.48 58.39 56.41 40.74 35.98 30.56 34.38 171.34 5138 41.22 11158 17.46 30.56 32.05 $1.5832 .0416 .0556 .0250 .0278 .0416 .0278 .0333 .0208 .0125 .0625 .1668 .0208 .0104 .1041 .1250 .0208 .0278 .1582 .0833 .0500 .0416 .0208 .0417 .1041 .0416 .0500 .0417 .3541 .0938 .0417 .6665 .6250 1.5832 .1041 .0625 .0362 .0362 .0375 .2292 .7498 .0552 .3333 .0938 .0833 .0938 .1668 .0625 .1668 .1250 .0416 .4791 .0625 .1250 .9583 .0833 .1668 .1108 .0625 .1250 .1250 .0333 .1771 .3333 .1668 .2292 .1250 .0938 1.1666 .1668 .1875 .6252 .0552 .0833 .1459 . $0.2782 .1362 .1638 .1636 .1540 .1634 .1540 .1636 .1905 .1638 .2454 .2999 .1634 .1634 .1635 .1636 .1361 .1366 .1448 .1634 .1845 .1634 .1448 .1911 .1908 .1907 .1636 .1639 .2457 .1636 .1639 .3817 .3000 .3523 .1905 .1637 .1897 .2210 .1884 .1908 .4638 .1626 .2454 .1914 .1635 .1914 .1840 .1637 .2457 .2182 .1089 .4418 .1908 .1636 .3544 .1635 .2184 .1908 .1637 .2454 .1908 .1906 .1820 .3545 .2457 .3822 .2445 .1637 .4085 .1840 .2729 .3274 .1897 •1635 .2731 17.57 327:33 294.55 654.31 554.02 392.67 554.02 491.40 916.03 1,310.04 392.67 179.80 785.34 1,570.68 157.07 130.92 654.31 491.40 91.56 196.14 369.00 392.67 696.06 458.37 18?* 26 45?i37 327.15 392.93 69.38 174.42 392.93 57.27 48.00 22.25 182.98 261.89 524.02 610.37 502.51 83.24 61.86 294.55 73.62 204.01 196.34 204.01 110.33 261.89 147.28 174.52 261.89 92.21 305.34 130.92 36.98 196.34 130.92 172.17 261.89 196.34 152.67 572.52 102.76 106.36 147.28 166.76 196.34 174.52 35.02 110.33 145;i56 52137 343.64 196.134 187.21 TIME AND LABOR COSTS— APPENDIX B, 154 T IM E A N D LABOR COST IN T H E M A N U F A C T U R E OF 100 PAIRS OF W E L T SHOES, R A T E OF W AGES OR EAR N IN G S PER HOUR, A N D N U M B E R OF PAIRS W O R K E D ON PER HOUR, IN 1916, B Y OCCUPATIONS—Concluded. Time cost Labor cost of 100 pairs of 100 pairs. (minutes). Department and occupation. Hourly wages. Number of pairs worked on per hour. MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT—Concluded. Heel blackens , nir Heel burnishers __ Shank and top-lift scourers.......................... ................... Dusters and grammars _ nn._ _ ___ Painters_____ _ _____ Gummars and polishers Stripers . . . TTeel-hreast painters. .... Top-lift rollers . _... ... ___ Bottom waxen? . _ Shank nailera Forepart stampers .. Shank stampers . . . . . . . . Maters (for triers) . Traars (machine) . _ _ Pnttars-in fheel pins) _ . Dull leather repairers ___ .. ...... _ .T _ . „.. . . ..... irn . . . . . ___ _r_ Stitch brushers_________________________ Dressers . Lacers T _ Brushers . Maters (for inspectors) , Packers _ . Daywork . ... T„ _ Organization__________ Total. _ . _ , _r . ___ „_____ ^ _ _ T .. , T__ __ . _ , _ __ ___ __ _______________________ ... * 142.7 hours. O 18.34 45.83 100.73 38.20 54.38 71.34 36.66 20.95 41.92 28.64 19.65 19.65 19.65 15.27 18.90 29.29 68.75 26.19 78.57 22.91 78.57 30.56 38.20 15.27 34.85 138.88 763.47 $0.0416 .2083 .4580 .1041 .1668 .2918 .1002 .0667 .1334 .1041 .0625 .0625 .0625 .0417 .7608 .0667 .1875 .0833 .2500 .0558 .2500 .0833 .1041 .0417 .1108 .4629 A 4806 $0.1361 .2727 .2728 .1635 .1840 .2454 .1640 . 1910 .1909 .2181 .1908 .1908 .1908 .1639 .2415 .1366 .1636 .1908 .1909 .1461 .1909 .1635 .1635 .1639 .1908 .2000 .3521 18,560.10 36.7761 .2574 327.15 130.92 59.57 157.07 110.33 84.10 163.67 286.40 143.13 209.50 305.34 305.34 305.34 392.93 317.46 204.85 87.27 229.10 76.37 261.89 76.37 196.34 157.07 392.93 172.17 43.20 7.86