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https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Inmeafive, "Proper Conditions of labor or VontenliarNexiers Deane Women of National Defense Council A irnet01betng overhaufeci ecbanic5 Gornen at worTe_ in a Britith factot An Eight-Hour Day, Saturday Half Holiday, Adequate Meal and Rest Periods, Are Required to Attain Efficiency. Despite Most Ard-ent Spirit Of Sacrifice, Human Beings Cannot Do Their Best If Continuously at Work. hours a week, not so much because they were compelled, don't get that into your heads, but because the very circumstances, the moral influence of doing something for these gallant lads to give them a chance competled us all to forget hours and everything else. "In view of the urgent necessity "Now as the war went on the for prompt increase in the volume sickness returns showed an alarmof production of nearly every article The general health of ing increase. required for the conduct of the war. the people was going down. Holivigilance is demanded of all those ir days you must remember were any way associated with industry Frw•->ce abandoned and the strain was be—,Torner. lest the safeguards with which the The Government ginning to be felt. people of this country have sought set up a committee composed of to protect labor should be unwisely fense." The Council has since made to restrict the work of women employers, trade union representaand unnecessarily broken down." strongly reaffirmed this stand, and to eight hours," the Ordnance De- tives and government officials, an This sentence sounds the keynote the Woman's Committee of the partment has in mind primarily the impartial tribunal. /They came to of the industrial policy of the two Council has taken, as its official output of munitions. In urging the the unanimous decision that long great divisions of the United States standards for the employnient of prohibition of night work, they state hours and Sunday labor were disArmy,—today placing numberless women, the standards issued by the that "English investigators have astrous, not only to the health of contracts of fabulous size and value Ordnance Department as part of found that night work for women the men and women, but to the —the Ordnance Department and the General Orders No. 13. The De- involves proportionately larger costs efficiency of the service and they Quartermaster's protection." were Department. and condemning In partments of Women in Industry of for supervision unanimous in "General Orders No. 13," from the Woman's Committee through- The human cost of night work has long hours. And we say without which this sentence is quoted, is- out the country are doing and will long been known to social investi- hesitation, having regar 1 to that exsued not long ago by the Ordnance do all in their power to put this en- gators. A world war has brought perience, that it is uneconomical, it Department and later adopted by dorsement into practical effect, with out its pecuniary extravagance. is unwise and it is bad management the Quartermaster General, are set the co-operation of the Department The Saturday half holiday—"an to work men or women abnormally forth in some detail the principles of Women in Industry of the absolute essential for women under long hours because it does not pay of this policy, and in no uncertain Woman's Committee at Washing- all conditions,"—adequate meal and in the end." words the reason for its existence ton. rest periods, and one day's rest in Proper regulation of hours alone, "It is a fair assumption," it goes on What are these standards, ani seven, also find place in this Govern- however, will not solve the problem. to say, "that for the most part these why are standards for working ment list of industrial standards. The Ordnance Department knows safeguards are the mechanisms of women of such prime importance to Even with the best will in the world, that it will not help production to efficiency. Industrial history proves the nation at this time? Proper and despite the most ardent spirit limit hours if the men and women that reasonable hours, fair working conditions of women's labor have of sacrifice, human beings cannot who work these hours are not secor.ditions. and a proper wage scale always been of peculiar importance do continuous work without losing cured in the fundamental necessiare essential to high production." to the state. The English work- ties of life—if they are hungry. In peace times the their efficiency. Enlightened patriotism, in other poorly clothed and improperly words, demands not that the workhoused. Therefore, it is urged that ers shall work long hours at tori standards of wages "already estab••:4:::••• speed for the least possible wages, lished in the industry and in the hut that for the sake of output they locality should not he lowered." shall make a steady, reasonable ex"that minimum wage rates bear a penditure of strength for rensonable constant relation to increases in the length of time under proper condicost of living," and that, in the case tions. We have long heard these of replacement of men by women, things demanded for the good of the there should be equal pay for equal workers, but now a new partnership work. In justice to our soldiers at has been formed. Efficiency and the front, the standards of the jobs humanity go hand in hand. they have left behind must not be From the time of our entrance in• lowered by these new recruits, who to the war, the importance of conwill, in increasing numbers, take serving labor standards has been their places in the industrial army. emphasized and re-emphasized by British official estimates state that important officials in the governsince the war began, some 1,400,000 ment. The President himself, in women have directly replaced men. welcoming at the White House the and some 600,000 are employed British Labor Commission which directly on munitions. The replacevisited this country last spring, said ment of men by women has, comthat "nothing would be more deparatively, not been extensive in the plorable" than "to set aside even United States as yet. But day by. temporarily the laws which have day we hear of new occupations safeguarded the standards of labor entered, and old ones extended. and of life," when we are fighting in Women &nor 4rls Women are the reserve labor power dOti)Q r t-Tc2,f-)in a cause which "means the lifting of the nation, and, if the war goes Brisg of the standards of life." Secretary yos'd on, will inevitably be called into inBaker, as Chairman of the Council dustry in greater and greater numof Defense, in April of last year bers. Increasing demands will be stated in a letter addressed to the made upon them, unwise sacrifices governors of the states a resolution United States Supreme Court held ers, who toiled such long hours at will without doubt be demanded, passed by the Council, "That the that, for the sake of future genera- the beginning of the war, did so short-sighted attempts will be made Council of National Defense urge tions, it was constitutional to limit willingly for the sake of their sol- to break down labor laws. But beupon the legislatures of the states, the working hours of women to diers. In the words of Mr. J. H. cause, in the light of England's exas well as all administrative eight hours a day. Today in war Thomas, member of the British perience, and, of our own best inagencies charged with the enforce- time limitation of hours is import- Labor Commission to this country: dustrial practice, we know that exment of labor and health laws, the ant for an additional reason. Mod"We got reports of our lads be- hausted workers mean decreased great duty of maintaining the exist- ern warfare is not fought in the ing mowed down, unable to defend production,—and because in the case ing safeguards as to the health and trenches alone. The army at the themselves, simply like rabbits in a of women workers, they mean, too, welfare of workers, and that no de- front is helpless if the second line hole, being mowed down all for a deterioration of the races, the peoparture from such present stand- of defense, the army in factories, want of munitions. You can quite ple of the country must be on guard ards in state laws or state rulings is not able to keep up production of understand that public sentiment with that "vigilance" demanded by affecting labor should be taken supplies. In emphasizing the neces- was that we had to give them some its Chief of Ordnance "lest the safewithout the declaration of the sity of rigid enforcement of exist- protection, and our men and our guards with which the people of our Council of National Defense that ing legal standards, and urging that women were working fourteen, six- country have sought to protect labor such a departure is essential for the "even where the law permits a nine teen, eighteen and all manner of should be unwisely and unnecessarily effective pursuit of the national de - or ten-hour day, effort should be hours, one hundred and twenty broken down." https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis • 170111€11Var-Vaeg IntDefailVe, for 1411)01 ° Of C011ditiOltS PrOPer - DecTa(e Women of National Defense Council A trnctorbetnQ OUer'hOU red British (c)r-ner) ecbanics Despite Most Ardent Spirit Of Sacrifice, Human Beings Cannot Do Their Best If Continuously at Work. GOT-nen ôt LoorIt_ in 56ti5T-2 8hell -fit rc, factoty *ow An Eight-Hour Day, Saturday Half Holiday, Adequate Meal and Rest Periods, Are Required to Attain Efficiency. "In view of the urgent necessity for prompt increase in the volume of production of nearly every article required for the conduct of the war. vigilance is demanded of all those ir any way associated with industry lest the safeguards with which the people of this country have sought to protect labor should be unwisely and unnecessarily broken down.': This sentence sounds the keynote of the industrial policy of the two great divisions of the United States Army,—today placing numberless contracts of fabulous size and value —the Ordnance Department and the Quartermaster's Department. In "General Orders No. 13," from which this sentence is quoted, issued not long ago by the Ordnance Department and later adopted by the Quartermaster General, are set forth in some detail the principles of this policy, and in no uncertain words the reason for its existence "It is a fair assumption," it goes on to say, "that for the most part these safeguards are the mechanisms of efficiency. Industrial history proves that reasonable hours, fair working coi.ditions, and a proper wage scale are essential to high production." Enlightened patriotism, in other words, demands not that the workers shall work long hours at top speed for the least possible wages, hut that for the sake of output they shall make a steady, reasonable expenditure of strength for reasonable length of time under proper conditions. We have long heard these things demanded for the good of the workers, but now a new partnership has been formed. Efficiency and humanity go hand in hand. From the time of our entrance in• to the war, the importance of conserving labor standards has been emphasized and re-emphasized by important officials in the government. The President himself, in welcoming at the White House the British Labor Commission which visited this country last spring, said that "nothing would be more deplorable" than "to set aside even temporarily the laws which have safeguarded the standards of labor and of life," when we are fighting in a cause which "means the lifting of the standards of life." Secretary Baker, as Chairman of the Council of Defense, in April of last year stated in a letter addressed to the governors of the states a resolution passed by the Council, "That the Council of National Defense urge upon the legislatures of the states, as well as all administrative agencies charged with the enforcement of labor and health laws, the great duty of maintaining the existing safeguards as to the health and welfare of workers, and that no departure from such present standards in state laws or state rulings affecting labor should be taken without the declaration of the Council of National Defense that such a departure is essential for the effective pursuit of the national de- https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis ..\-Torner, Ccavt-i >let The Council has since tense." strongly reaffirmed this stand, and the Woman's Committee of the Council has taken, as its official standards for the employment of women, the standards issued by the Ordnance Department as part of The DeGeneral Orders No. 13. partments of Women in Inch,stry of the Woman's Committee throughout the country are doing and will do all in their power to put this endorsement into practical effect, with the co-operation of the Department of Women in Industry of the Woman's Committee at Washington. What are these standards, and why are standards for working women of such prime importance to the nation at this time? Proper conditions of women's labor have always been of peculiar importance to the state. In peace times the 4 United States Supreme Court held that, for the sake of future generations, it was constitutional to limit the working hours of women to eight hours a day. Today in war time limitation of hours is important for an additional reason. Modern warfare is not fought in the trenches alone. The army at the front is helpless if the second line of defense, the army in factories, is not able to keep up production of supplies. In emphasizing the necessity of rigid enforcement of existing legal standards, and urging that "even where the law permits a nine or ten-hour day, effort should be hours a week, not so much because they were compelled, don't get that into your heads, but because the very circumstances, the moral influence of doing something for these gallant lads to give them a chance compelled us all to forget hours and everything else. "Now as the war went on the sickness returns showed an alarmThe general health of ing increase. the people was going down. Holimust remember were days you abandoned and the strain was beit) ri-Nar)ce The Government ginning to be felt. set up a committee composed of made to restrict the work of women employers, trade union representato eight hours," the Ordnance De- tives and government officials, an partment has in mind primarily the impartial tribunal. frhey came to output of munitions. In urging the the unanimous decision that long prohibition of night work, they state hours and Sunday labor were disthat "English investigators have astrous, not only to the health of found that night work for women the men and women, but to the involves proportionately larger costs efficiency of the service and they protection." were and for supervision condemning unanimous in The human cost of night work has long hours. And we say without long been known to social investi- hesitation, having regarl to that exA world war has brought perience, that it is uneconomical, it gators. out its pecuniary extravagance. is unwise and it is bad management The Saturday half holiday—"an to work men or women abnormally absolute essential for women under long hours because it dues not pay all conditions,"—adequate meal and in the end." rest periods, and one day's rest in Proper regulation of hours alone, seven, also find place in this Govern- however, will not solve the problem. ment list of industrial standards. The Ordnance Department knows Even with the best will in the world, that it will not help production to and despite the most ardent spirit limit hours if the men and women of sacrifice, human beings cannot who work these hours are not sedo continuous work without losing cured in the fundamental necessitheir efficiency. The English work- ties of life—if they are hungry, poorly clothed and improperly housed. Therefore, it is urged that standards of wages "already established in the industry and in the locality should not be lowered." "that minimum wage rates bear a constant relation to increases in the cost of living," and that, in the case of replacement of men by women, there should be equal pay for equal work. In justice to our soldiers at the front, the standards of the jobs they have left behind must not be lowered by these new recruits, who will, in increasing numbers, take their places in the industrial army. British official estimates state that since the war began, some 1,400,000 women have directly replaced men, and some 600,000 are employed directly on munitions. The replacement of men by women has, comparatively, not been extensive in the United States as yet. But day by day we hear of new occupations entered, and old ones extended. Women are the reserve labor power of the nation, and, if the war goes on, will inevitably be called into industry in greater and greater numbers. Increasing demands will be made upon them, unwise sacrifices ers, who toiled such long hours at will without doubt be demanded, the beginning of the war, did so short-sighted attempts will be made willingly for the sake of their sol- to break down labor laws. But bediers. In the words of Mr. J. H. cause, in the light of England's exThomas, member of the British perience, and, of our own best inLabor Commission to this country: dustrial practice, we know that ex"We got reports of our lads be- hausted workers mean decreased ing mowed down, unable to defend production,—and because in the case themselves, simply like rabbits in a of women wakers, they mean, too, hole, being mowed down all for a deterioration of the races, the peowant of munitions. You can quite ple of the country must be on guard understand that public sentiment with that "vigilance" demanded by was that we had to give them some its Chief of Ordnance "lest the safeprotection, and our men and our guards with which the people of our women were working fourteen, six- country have sought to protect labor teen, eighteen and all manner of should be unwisely and unnecessarily hours, one hundred and twenty broken down." Committee on Women in Industry of the Advisory Commission Counc MAKING THE UNIFORMS FOR OUR NAVY WOMEN IN WAR INDUSTRIES SERIES, No. 2. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis September, oil. Committee on Women in Industry of the Advisory Commission of the Council of National Defense. MAKING THE UNIFORMS FOR OUR NAVY WOMEN IN WAR INDUSTRIES SERIES, No. 2. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis September, 1918. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis , -1 I Council of National Defense Advisory Commission COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY OF THE COMMITTEE ON LABOR. OFFICERS. . Chairman . Vice Chairman . Treasurer Secretary Executive Secretary MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN EDITH CAMPBELL MRS. V. EVERIT MACY PAULINE GOLDMARK . MAY ALLINSON . EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE. Officers Ex officio MARY MCDOWELL, MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT, MELINDA SCOTT, FLORENCE C. THORNE, MARY VAN KLEECK. GRACE ABBOTT, MARY ANDERSON, MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL, SOPHONISBA" BRECKINRIDGE, MRS. SARA A. CONBOY, 3 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis ... https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis I CONTENTS. PREFACE. RECOMMENDATIONS. CHAPTER I—INTRODUCTORY Where the Uniforms are Made Increase in Production Systems of Production The Brooklyn Provisions and Clothing Depot. The Charleston Government-owned Factories. PAGE 7 9 11 11 11 12 12 15 CHAPTER II—THE HOME WORK SYSTEM OF PRODUCTION DURING 16 THE FIRST YEAR OF THE WAR Processes of Manufacture: In the Clothing Depot Work Rooms Outside the Provisions and Clothing Depot The Bundle Women The Home Shops. The Piecework Factories 16 17 18 22 25 CHAPTER III—THE SYSTEM OF PRODUCTION DURING THE 29 SECOND YEAR OF THE WAR 29 Large Contract Production. 31 • Piecework Production 31 Geographical Distribution of Shops 32 Production Increase in Number of Pieceworkers Making Navy Uniforms 35 Types of Shops and Factories and Physical Conditions of 36 Work. 39 Personnel 40 Uniforms. Naval the Making in Processes 45 CHAPTER IV—SUMMARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org NIL Reserve Bank of St. Louis Federal 5 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis PREFACE • The present war has called for unprecedented production in military and naval supplies. The Navy was confronted at the outbreak of the war with the problem of clothing an enormously increased naval force on short notice. On the Provisions and Clothing Depot of the Brooklyn Navy Yard fell the weight of this new responsibility. Through the foresight of the Officer-in-Charge, the Depot was well stocked with the materials necessary for the uniforms, but the industrial problem was a more serious one. For the Brooklyn Naval Provisions and Clothing Depot depended on outside "pieceworkers," 1. e., home workers and small shop owners to make up the materials into uniforms when they had been cut in the Depot. This report which was made by the Committee on Women in Industry describes the methods of production during the first year of the war; the gradual evolution of the policy encouraging direct dealing with the manufacturers; and the effort to bring the production of uniforms into establishments where the conditions of employment can be controlled. The importance of this policy is apparent. The need for it is described in Chapter II on the Home Work System of Production for the Provisions and Clothing Depot. This investigation and the preliminary report was made by Mrs. Clara M. Tead of the New York State Committee on Women in Industry. The investigation extended over four weeks from October 15 to November 10, 1917. This Committee was aided in making the study by the co-operation • of the State Department of Labor and by the Standing Committee on Industry of the Mayor's Committee of Women on National Defense. The development of the new policy is described in Chapter I and the conditions of production at the beginning of the second year of the war are described in Chapter III by May Allinson, Executive Secretary of the Committee on Women in Industry, who also prepared the report for publication. Visits were made to the Provisions and Clothing Depot in Brooklyn and conferences held with the Officers in Charge in April, June and August, 1918, and two days in June were spent with the https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 7 Depot Inspector visiting the shops of piece workers and manufaturers who were making naval uniforms. This report of the conditions and methods of Making the Uniforms of our Navy is published with the approval and through the courtesy of the Navy Department. The Committee has met throughout the investigation with the most cordial co-operation from the officials of the Navy Department who have uniformly offered every opportunity for inspection, observation and the collection of the data presented. The following extract from a letter from the Provisions and Clothing Depot expresses the attitude shown by the Department: "The Officer-in-Charge wishes to record his appreciation of the work that has been done by the Committee on Women in Industry of the Advisory Commission of the Council of National Defense in investigating the production of uniforms for enlisted men of the Navy. The preparation of this report has required an infinite amount of painstaking investigation which has been most accurately and thoroughly done." The Committee is gratified to learn that the report has proven of value to the officials immediately concerned with the production problems. FLORENCE J. HARRIMAN, Chairman, Committee on Women in Industry. 1918. September, https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 8 !WM!, MAKING THE UNIFORMS FOR OUR NAVY. Recommendations. One year's experience shows conclusively that the supervision of federal contracts should rest with the branch of the federal government which lets the contract. The department which is responsible for securing an acceptable product, must be in a position to insist on conditions of employment which will make these requirements possible. In the opinion of the Committee on Women in Industry of the Council of National Defense and as a result of this detailed study of the methods of manufacture: The Navy Department should assume responsibility for conditions of employment in the factories making naval uniforms and for the supervision and inspection of the plants. This should be done not only to promote prompt delivery of acceptable product but in the interests of the workers themselves upon whom the Navy depends for its production, and in the interests of the enlisted men who wear the uniforms. In view of the facts brought out in this report the Committee on Women in Industry makes the following specific recommendations: 1. The Navy Department should give authority to the Bureau of Supplies and Accounts (a) to supervise conditions of work in the manufacture of navy clothing by private firms and factories, and (b) to establish standards of employment as to wages, hours and physical conditions as has already been done by the industrial service sections in some of the other branches of the Government with great benefit to output; 2. The Navy Department should discontinue the giving out of work to be done in the homes as soon as practicable because of the waste of time and services and the dangers to health; 3. The contracts should be awarded only to manufacturers who can prove their ability to make the navy uniforms in accordance with the requirements of the Provisions and Clothing Depot and with the terms of the contract; https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 9 4. Naval inspectors should be stationed in the uniform factories as they are in the munitions and airplane factories to supervise production and conditions of employment. 5. Women agents should be appointed (a) to work out the best methods of employing and developing the labor force of women workers, training them for and directing them into the specific occupations • for which they are best fitted; (b) to insure for them physical environment, conditions of employment and protection of health which will conduce to their highest productivity. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 10 MAKING THE UNIFORMS FOR OUR NAVY. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. Where the Uniforms are Made. The uniforms of the whole United States Navy are made in only two centers, Brooklyn, New York and vicinity, and Charleston, South Carolina. The strength of the Navy, including marines and reserves, has long since pasiad the 500,000 mark. The Bureau of Supplies and Accounts of the Navy must, therefore, allow for a larger number in estimatitig the clothing supply, as the number is increasing all the time. Each sailor, when he enters the service of the Navy, is equipped with four pairs of trousers and three middies of white cotton; two pairs of trousers and two middies of blue flannel or serge; one overcoat; three white cotton hats and one blue flannel cap which he pays for out of his wages. The rapid increase in the size of the Navy called for unprecedented supplies of clothing to outfit the new men. The new demands for replacement of garments worn are also continually increasing in proportion to the men in the service. The following table shows the tremendous increase in production of naval uniforms during the year ending June 30, 1918 over the year ending June 30, 1917, and gives some conception of the enormous problems confronting the Bureau of Supplies and Accounts in the Navy Department. TABLE 1 SHOWING THE INCREASE IN PRODUCTION OF NAVAL GARMENTS UNDER THE PROVISIONS AND CLOTHING DEPOT IN BROOKLYN DURING THE YEARS 1917 AND 1918. NUMBER GARMENTS PRODUCED DURING THE GARMENTS PRODUCED Blue Trousers Blue Overshirts Blue Undress Jumpers Overcoats—Sailors Chief Petty Officers Shirts Sailors Cloth Caps White Trousers White Undress Jumpers White Hats Dungaree Trousers Dungaree Jumpers Total https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Fiscal Year Ending June 30, 1917 Fiscal Year Ending June 30, 1918 Percentage of Increase 116,615 134,276 23,136 22,698 18,557 98,870 12,109 245,931 436,260 1,809,730 1,330,111 192,749 680,155 130,523 546,360 1,189,062 978,581 1,295,802 208,289 205,187 1,451 .9 896.5 733.1 2,896.5 603.3 452.6 9,719.6 297.9 197.2 1,108,452 8,566,549 672.9 11 The production of blue serge trousers increased 1,451 per cent; of sailors' overcoats, 2,896 per cent. and of white trousers, 9,719 per cent. The supply of woolen and white cotton. garments as a whole was increased 672.9 per cent. The Provisions and Clothing Depot in Brooklyn .was confronted with the responsibility of finding manufacturers who could meet these new demands. All of the blue uniforms, i. e., the trousers, overshirts, undress, jumpers, overcoats, petty officers' suits, a large part of the white cotton uniforms and all of the sailors' blue caps and white hats are made in Brooklyn and vicinity. Write cotton uniforms and dungaree (blue cotton) uniforms for machinists and for gunners' mates on the ships are also made in Charleston, South Carolina. Systems of Production. Two quite different systems of manufacture prevail: 1. The Brooklyn Clothing and Provisions Depot's system of distributing the work from a central depot to home workers, piece workers and contractors to be made up into garments; 2. The Charleston (South Carolina) system of complete production under the roof of a Government-owned factory. The Brooklyn Provisions and Clothing Depot. The Home Work System. The Brooklyn Naval Clothing Depot dates back to 1879 and still retains the old out-work system of production which is.also found in the old Quartermaster's Depots of the Army in Philadelphia and in Jeffersonville, Indiana. Up to the beginning of 1918, the Brooklyn Clothing Depot in one of the old buildings of the Brooklyn Navy Yard. housed was The new production demands upon the depot and the need of water front for ship building resulted in the removal of the depot outside the Yard into a six-story building leased from the American Can Company. The same processes of manufacture were retained by the depot on a much larger scale. All materials used in the uniforms made for the Brooklyn Clothing Depot are bought by the Depot, stored in great storerooms; inspected; the flannels and serges steamed and sponged to avoid shrinkage; cut into garments; done up in bundles and given out to home workers, pieceworkers and to large contractors who have bid for the garments in competition to be made into garments https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 12 outside the Depot. The garments, when completed, are returned to the Depot, inspected and approved by depot inspectors, baled and packed up and sent to their destination. This system insures a standard material and a high grade of product since the Depot buys and inspects all the material which goes into the uniform and passes upon all uniforms received and accepted for the Navy. While all the uniforms are made outside the Brooklyn Depot, several stages of production are discovered. The home work system secured a strong foothold at the time of the SpanishAmerican War because it brought a sudden and unforeseen demand for sailors' uniforms which was met by large numbers of women living in the vicinity of the Brooklyn Navy Yard who volunteered to take the work home, make the garments and return them to the Depot when completed. It became customary to let out work to the wives and other dependents of men who had served in the Navy or the United States Government in some capacity. The practice of "home finishing" on piece rates set by the Depot has continued in the Brooklyn Clothing Depot since that time but recently on a decreasing scale, as improved machinery and methods make it uneconomical. Some of the more enterprising home workers gradually developed shops in their home and took on several workers. Some shops grew even larger and developed into small factories and some of these manufacturers even came to own several factories. One manufacturer says he began 23 years ago with three machines in one corner of the first floor of his four-story factory. He now owns eight small factories, making naval clothing on a piece work basis. • The Contract System of Production. In May, 1918, a new policy of competitive bidding for making the naval garments in large lots was inaugurated by the Bureau of Supplies and Accounts of the Navy. This new plan was a part of the general policy of the Navy in encouraging direct dealing with manufacturers and dealers. The large clothing manufacturers are finding their regular market cut off by the war and can afford to bid on large amounts at a comparatively small profit. Indeed, the competition was so keen that the prices were shaded to the limit—so much so that when these firms begun actually to make up the samples they complained that they could not follow the specifications and requirements maintained by the Provisions and Clothing Depot. Some of the old-time piece work manufacturers appreciated that this new method of large contracts, if continued, would soon https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 13 take all the work out of their hands and went in a delegation to Washington for a hearing before the Bureau of Supplies and Accounts. They were assured that those who had been working on naval garments before the war would be kept at capacity. Some of these firms have made naval uniforms for 20 years or more, have employees who have worked 15 or 20 years on naval uniforms and do a very high grade of work. Some pay higher salaries, maintain better working conditions and do higher grade work than the firms which were able to underbid them. The pieceworkers who had been put on the rolls during the first year of the war, however, were ordered to be dropped in June, 1918, in the belief that these large contractors together with the old time pieceworkers could produce the Navy's uniforms. But this admirable plan of concentrating the manufacture of naval uniforms in a comparatively few large establishments under factory conditions and state supervision has received a decided check from these same firms, who, six weeks after the award of the bids were not able to organize their factories properly for Navy work or to meet within 50 per cent, the output they had guaranteed in their bids. Nor have they turned in satisfactory work although some of them are among the best known garment makers throughout the country. In one case, 2,000 out of a delivery of 2,500 garments were rejected. Every garment rejected requires a reinspection when it is again submitted which doubles the cost of inspection and causes great delay in putting the clothing into use. The Officer-in-Charge says the work of the old pieceworkers has been far superior to the work of the contractors,—it seldom being necessary to reject any of their work. These difficulties with the contractors are due to several causes: (1) The Navy demands a high standard of workmanship which the workers who have not made the uniforms before cannot immediately meet (2) There is a great deal of special work, such as eyelets, taped and starred collars and double rows of aitching which cannot be done on doubleneedle machines and special methods of button-holing and buttonsewing (3) The employers have bid so low that they speed up their employees and attempt to resort to short cuts in order to make a small profit and the consequence is poor work which the Navy will not accept (4) The workers in the trade are restless and are demanding increases in pay on which.the employers did not count in naming their prices. But, whatever the cause, the fact remains that the Navy has https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 14 been delayed in securing the necessary supply of clothing by the difficulties of these contractors in meeting the terms of their contracts. The Officer-in-Charge of the Depot has therefore recommended, in view of the fact that the contractors are not living up to the terms of their contracts that all the pieceworkers who were dropped from the rolls in June because they had not been employed before the outbreak of war, should be reinstated which will probably be granted. The possibility'of a self-contained Government-owned factory such as in Charleston has also been under consideration. The Officerin-Charge, however, estimates that such a factory would require more than 6,000 machines to handle the production and believes that suitable space, equipment for the factory and an efficient working force could not be secured in less than 18 months. He urges that the time and energy of the Provisions and Clothing Depot should not be required for such a big undertaking under the present pressure of the war demands. The Charleston Government-Owned Factories. About four years ago a small clothing factory was established in the Navy Yard at Charleston, South Carolina, as an experiment in making the uniforms in a Government-owned factory. The product was confined to cotton garments. When war was declared, the Charleston factory was designated to make all the white cotton uniforms and blue cotton dungaree suits worn by mechanics and enlisted men. The small factory expanded into three buildings and the number of employees increased from 614 in May, 1917 to 1,142 in May, 1918, but has been able to meet only a small part of the demands for cotton uniforms. Bulletin No. 3 of this series describes the employment of women in the Clothing Factories of the Charleston Navy Yard. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 15 CHAPTER II. THE HOME WORK SYSTEM OF PRODUCTION FOR THE PROVISIONS AND CLOTHING DEPOT IN BROOKLYN DURING THE FIRST YEAR OF THE WAR.* The manufacture of navy blue serge and flannel blouses and trousers, petty officers' shirts, overcoats, white working jumpers, trousers, caps and hats for the Brooklyn Provision and Clothing Depot may be roughly divided into two parts: the preparation of the material and cutting of the garments in the Clothing Depot, and the finishing of the garments outside the Depot by pieceworkers who take the garments to their homes, shops or factories and make them up at a definite piece rate set by the Government. Processes of Manufacture in the Clothing Depot Work Rooms. Only men workers are employed on the processes carried on in the Clothing Depot work rooms. They are engaged in the following processes: Examining. All new material is examined for imperfections before it is cut. It is run over rollers by two hand-cranked machines. One man stands under the frame and behind the cloth and looks through it toward the light. Another looks at the other side with the light on the cloth. In up-to-date commercial factories, these examining rollers are driven by power. Sponging, shrinking and pressing the material. All serge for uniforms is run over hot steaming rollers, where the cloth is steamed, shrunk and pressed. Cutting. Long tables extend the width of a huge cutting room. The material is spread out on these tables in many thicknesses both by hand and by machine spreaders where it is then cut by electric cutters. The serge cloth can be cut 30 to 40 thicknesses at one time. *This investigation was made by Mrs. Clara M. Tead of the New York State Committee on Women in Industry. One hundred nineteen visits were made to the homes and shops of workers on naval uniforms during October and November, 1917, as follows: Industrial home workers, 67; home shops, 13; piece workers, 21; home workers for contractors, 9; sub-contractors, 8; home workers for sub-contractors, 1. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 16 Bundling. The pieces of the garments of similar material and color are bundled up, ready to be sent out to home workers or contractors for finishing. Bundles of cut garments and supplies used in finishing, such as thread, buttons, etc., are given to home workers and contractors. Records are kept of amounts taken out, rates and date when garments are expected to be returned in finished condition. Inspection of finished garments. Each garment returned by home workers or contractors for finishing, is inspected in the Depot workrooms. If any of the work is poor, the garment is returned to the finisher, who is required to do the work over until it is satisfactory to the inspector. In case part of a garment is spoiled (if, for instance, a sleeve has been cut accidentally with scissors), a new part must be bought by the finisher at cost and the garment remade. If the inspector finds that the number of finished garments returned does not correspond with the number given out, a charge is made against the finisher for each lost garment, according to the net cost of the garment to the Navy Department. Outside the Provisions and Clothing Depot. The finishing of garments cut in the Depot work-rooms has until June, 1918 been done largely by "pieceworkers" who might be "bundle women" working in their homes, home shop owners, or small manufacturers. Civil Service Regulations. The bundle women and home shop owners are selected and employed under Civil Service as "seamstresses," and must meet the requirements which provide: 1. That the worker be a citizen of the United States; 2. Eighteen years of age or over; 3. That she present a health certificate.from her own doctor, which costs $1.00; 4. That she make her application under oath and file with the Labor Board, vouchers giving acceptable evidence of her good character, training and previous experience as a worker; 5. That she give the names and addresses of five persons in the United States who are competent to judge of her fitness for the work. Applicants are then rated quarterly by the Civil Service Commission and those receiving 70 per cent. or more are eligible for appointment. Appointments are made according to percentage ratings. Because of the Civil Service requirements outlined above, the group of home finishers on the Navy Yard payroll is a picked group of https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 17 responsible, capable women workers who learn of the work through friends already employed. The Paymaster says the women who do home finishing directly for the Depot take a personal pride and interest in their woik and in the fact that they are employees of the United States Government which make for a high grade of workmanship and the prompt delivery of finished garments. Regulations of Home Work. The name and address of each home worker is filed with the New York State Department of Labor and the homes of finishers in tenements are inspected under the provisions of the Division of Home Work Inspection of the State Department of Labor, which require that tenements in which home work is done must be licensed by the Department of Labor. Although a dwelling house in which home work is done does not require a license, the finishers in one or two-family houses were visited by the home work inspectors of the Department of Labor, as far as it was possible, during the latter part of 1917 because of certain current rumors that home work was being done on naval garments under poor conditions, A home finisher for the Navy Yard may sublet to other workers who are not on the Navy Yard list the starring and taping of collars and may also employ other workers in her home which then becomes a "home shop." The Bundle Women. The individual home workers or bundle women are in the direct employ of the Navy Yard and are paid standard piece rates set by the Government for starring and taping the navy blue collars, which are most commonly done by the individual home workers, and for making the blue serge overshirts and the white cotton jumpers. Through the co-operation of the New York State Department of Labor, a list was secured of the names and addresses of 102 individual home workers, of which 67 were visited. Twenty-five of the 67 home workers had been working for more than 10 years, and 30 since war was declared. Three times a week these bundle women receive bundles of cut garments of various kinds from the Clothing Depot. "Blue work" is distributed on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and "white work" on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Method of Work. The work on the blue blouses is sectionalized • and done by three different women. The collars are stitched and the braid put on by one group of women called tape hands. They are returned to the Depot and sent out again to women called star hands, who embroider two stars on each collar. These women https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 18 again return them to the Depot and they are sent, with the material for the blouses, to women home workers, to home shops, or to contractors who stitch the garments and sew on the completed collar. As a rule, the completed blouse is sent by these last women to a shop where buttonholes and eyelets are made by machine before they are returned to the Depot. The four parties to a blouse may live literally miles apart. Of 45 women found working on navy blue overshirts, 19 were taping, 18 were starring, and eight were stitching blouses. All of the eight stitchers were sending the garments out to shops to have the buttonholes and eyelets made. Eighteen women were found making white jumpers, and, of these, four were sending the blouses out to have the eyelets made by machine. The remaining 14 women were making the four eyelets in each jumper by hand. Type of Workers. Fifty-six of the 67 workers were Americans, three colored, one Danish, one English, one German, two Irish, one Italian, and two not specified. The families in whose homes this work for the Navy is done, are, for the most part, American families accustomed to a fairly high standard of living. The majority of the women would not think of taking ordinary finishing from a garment factory into their homes, or of going into a factory to work. The Navy work is considered a pleasant, superior kind of occupation. The fact that in many instances the work has been going on in the families for years and, that, as several women expressed it, "we feel that we are doing something for our country," relieves it of all the stigma usually attached to home work. The starring, since it is hand work, can be done in any part of the house, enabling the worker to entertain guests and embroider at the same time and therefore is very much in demand. Number Working in a Family. In many cases the family consists of two or three sisters living together; of a mother and a grown daughter, or of a widow or unmarried woman living alone. In 28 of the 67 families visited, the entire family earnings were obtained from the Navy work. In 40 families only one person was working, in 19 families two persons were working, and in three families three people were working. The Homes. Twenty-seven of the families lived in tenements, i. e., houses accommodating three or more families. The remaining 40 lived in one or two-family houses, many of them very attractive and well furnished. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 19 In 56 houses the home conditions were rated as good; in five as fair; three were classed as poor; and entrance was refused in the three other cases. Most of the women do their sewing in the dining room and kitchen although a few have sewing rooms which they use for no other purpose. Nineteen used the dining rooms; 16 the kitchens and 12 the living-rooms as work-rooms. Eight had sewing rooms and five worked in bedrooms. In most cases, the work is carefully protected, the tables on which it is piled and the floor under the machines being covered with oil cloth or paper. In a few instances, the work was found piled on beds or couches not very attractive in appearance. Inspection. The 27 tenements in which the work was done at the time of the investigation were licensed. In 14 cases, however, where the women took on the work after the declaration of war in April, the date of granting the license by the Depatment of Labor was from one to three months later than the date when the women began work. With the exception of four or five houses, all the tenements had been inspected by the Division of Home Work Inspection of the Labor Department within the three months preceding the study. The others were inspected in May. HOurs. Before the war, home finishers for the Navy Yard were requested by officials of the Clothing Depot not to work more than eight hours per day on naval garments. With the declaration of• war this ruling has been suspended and the homeworkers have been asked to do as much work as possible. The actual working hours of the bundle women vary greatly. The women keep no record and have a very vague idea as to the length of time spent in making a given amount. Their time is broken by household duties and many are afraid to make definite statements which might cause them trouble. Twenty-nine of the 67 women said that they were working eight hours or less per day and 25 that they worked from nine to 14 hours. Thirty families estimated that they worked less than 50 hours per week and 23 that their weekly hours ranged from 50 to 80. Night Work. No new work can be obtained from the Depot until the completed work is turned in. Thus, if a woman does not finish her taping by Wednesday, she cannot take it in and get new work until Friday—the next day for distribution of blue work. As a result, she must either let Thursday pass with no work to do https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 20 or else she must work extra time on Tuesday to have it ready by Wednesday. The latter is the course generally followed. Many women stated that they worked 'until late at night the day before the work was to be turned in. Wages. Piece rates paid to home finishers are fixed by the Provision and Clothing Depot of the. Brooklyn Navy Yard and submitted for approval to the Navy Department at Washington. The rates paid in November, 1917, were as follows: White jumpers20 in bundle—finishing and stitching—$5.00; navy blue collars80 in bundle—taping and starring, $4.00 (23/ cents per star). Weekly earnings are difficult to get and the following data are offered as indications of amounts earned, rather than as actual facts. TABLE 2 SHOWING NUMBER OF FAMILIES IN WHICH WEEKLY PER CAPITA EARNINGS WERE SPECIFIED. NUMBER OF WOMEN EMPLOYED ON WEEKLY EARNINGS Taping Starring Less than $5 $ 5 and less than $ 8 $ 8 and less than $10 $10 and less than $12 $12 and less than $14 $14 and less than $16 $16 and less than $18 $18 and less than $20 $20 and more • •8 ... 2 .. . 3 1 ... 3 Total. . . . 17 2 2 1 10 Blue Overshirts White Jumpers 1 2 1 3 1 15 8 2 3 1 1 Jumpers, Except Eyelets Total 3 2 2 1 ••i 5 13 4 15 2 9 4 1 5 11 7 58* • •2 *No information was received from nine families. Two-thirds of these home workers seemed to be earning less than $12.00 a week. These figures were computed by multiplying the rate paid per bundle by the number of bundles which the worker said she finished per week and dividing by the number of workers in the family. Charges. The weekly earnings quoted above do not represent actual income derived from home work since charges incidental to the work must be deducted. Transportation is an important charge on home work. In some cases 10 cents carfare once or twice a week is the only expense in- https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 21 curred, but if the bundles are sent to and from the Depot by expressmen or errand boy, the worker is charged from 20 cents to 50 cents per bundle, according to size of bundle and distance. Eyelets and buttonholes when sent out to a contractor to be made, cost 25 cents a bundle for eyelets in white jumpers and 54 cents a bundle for eyelets and buttonholes in navy blue blouses. Installation of machines is another heavy expenditure. Several women have bought foot machines, costing from $35 to $40 and, in several cases, power machines have been installed which cost from $49 to $68 each. Machines are usually bought on the installment plan. The cost of the upkeep of machines varies according to the power used. The upkeep of foot machines is slight—oil, needles, etc.,—but upkeep of power machines, including cost of electricity, is considerable. Rent of machines may figure in the charges on the worker. Foot machines are in some cases rented at the rate of $2.00 per month. Charges for spoiled garments sometimes reduce the profits. If a garment is spoiled or lost the worker is obliged to pay for the material to replace the part spoiled or for an entire new garment and to make it up. The Home Shops. The home shop has developed as an outgrowth of the home finishing scheme just described. A home finisher was assisted by her daughters when they grew up; a neighbor desiring work was invited to join the group; one or two relatives came to work; sewing machines were added to the family's equipment and the work became better organized, with the original home finisher as the employer and forelady. During the Spanish-American War several home shops sprang into being to meet the sudden demand for naval clothing. Six of the 15 home shops visited have been in existence for several years and nine had been started as shops since April 1, 1917. Each finisher was asked personally and by letter to guarantee as large a weekly output as possible to be delivered on specified days. Those who already had small home shops were urged to install new machinery, hire more workers and expand as much and as quickly as possible. As a result, summer kitchens, wash houses and basements were pressed into use; foot machines and power machines were set up in dining-rooms, kitchens and wherever space allowed. Location. The home shops show a greater variety in the type https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 22 of work room provided than was discovered among individual home workers. Those visited were located as follows: Number 2 2 2 2 1 . 1 2 1 1 1 15 Location Kitchen Dining Room Other room in house Basement on ground floor Wash house converted Summer kitchen converted Room added to house for purpose Store Old factory extension Upper floor rented in adjoining house Total Kinds of Garments Made and Amounts of Output. Home shops do the same kind of work as the individual bundle women and the piecework manufacturers. The output varies greatly with size of shops, efficiency of management, and number of employees. Thirteen of the 15 home shops visited were producing naval garments as shown in the following table: TABLE 3 SHOWING PRODUCT, NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES, AND WEEKLY OUTPUT OF 13 HOME SHOPS. Shops Number of Employees in Each Shop Weekly Output. Number White Duck Blouses A B C D E F -3 3 2 8 7 8 240 120 180 400 360 600 Navy Blue Serge Trousers A B C 20 36 43 1,200 1,500 1,600 *Navy Blue Overshirts or Blouses without Collars A B C D 3 10 2 8 180 f 300 blouses 1 200 collars 80 300 Article Produced *In shops C and D taping, eyelets and buttonholes were sometimes sent out. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 23 Amounts of Pay. While uniform rates are paid by the Clothing Depot of the Navy Yard to all home shop employers the wages paid by these employers to their own employees vary from shop to shop for each process. Some shops pay on a week work basis, some on a piece rate basis and some shops have both week workers and piece workers. Equipment. In the small shops, employing two or three workers, foot machines are used for the stitching. Eyelets and buttonholes are often sent out to a contractor who does that work exclusively. Rates paid him are as follows: Buttonholes and • eyelets, four of each in each navy blue blouse, 54 cents for a bundle of 20 blouses; eyelets, four in each white blouse, 25 cents for 20 blouses. In the very small shops the crow-tacking is frequently done by hand by a finisher. The larger home shops have installed powermachines for stitching and in many instances special machines for making eyelets, buttonholes, crow-tacking and button-sewing. For example, one shop employing eight persons had invested in machine equipment as follows:* Five power machines including motors One eyelet machine One buttonhole machine One crow-tacking machine $400.00 120.00 165.00 200.00 The expansion in this shop has been taking place during the last seven years. The machines are placed in the kitchen and in an adjoining room. The owner said that it costs her about $12.00 per month for power. Buttons are still sewed on by a woman at 15 cents per hour. Transportation. Seven of the 15 shops studied have their cut material brought to them from the Depot, by an expressman who has regular routes among the bundle women and home shops. Four of the larger shops own automobiles and do their own transportation. The other four send boys for bundles or go for it themselves on the trolley car. Supplies. Thread, buttons, tape, lacings, and all supplies used in the making of the garments are furnished to the home shop employer by the Navy Yard. The upkeep of machines, needles and leather belts for power machines are items which the shop*Figures given by owner. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 24 keeper must meet herself. Charges for spoiled or lost articles are the same as for the bundle women. Physical Working Conditions. Many of the shops are crowded because of the sudden expansion and the introduction of new machinery. One shop employing 37 workers, located on the ground floor of a dwelling house, is so crowded that the employer hit upon the bright idea of having the women operators and finishers sit upon piano stools. Subletting of Work. It was impossible to ascertain the extent of the sub-letting of collars for taping and starring as the women were suspicious and unwilling to give any information which might cause their work to be taken away from them, or which "might be of use to the enemy" as a few naively said. One owner of a home shop has three tapers whom she pays at the rate of .00 per bundle of 80 collars. She herself receives $8.00 per bundle for this work from the Provisions and Clothing Depot. The Piecework Factories. A number of factories also take out the uniforms and finish them on the piecework basis exactly as do the home shops. Twentyone factories doing work of this type for the Brooklyn Navy Yard and eight sub-contractors employed by them were visited. Only two of these 21 piecework manufacturers employed home workers so far as could be discovered. One employed seven and one employed two home workers. Regulations. If the manufacturer employs home workers who live in tenements, he is required to obtain a license from the New York Department of Labor and to register the names and addresses of all tenement home workers with the Home Work Inspection Division. A manufacturer may have sub-contractors, who in turn may have home finishers. The manufacturer who takes the clothing from the Depot is responsible for seeing that all work which he sends out to tenements is done in licensed tenements. The seven home workers mentioned above lived in licensed tenements, which are old houses but fairly clean. These seven women were Italians and, with one exception, have started home work since the outbreak of the war. They all do some kind of hand finishing on navy blue serge or flannel trousers and are paid at the following rates: https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 25 6 cents a pair* Crow tacks Sewing on buttons Putting lacing in back "Cleaning" of threads, etc 4 cents a pairt 10 cents a pair Total *2 cents each and three on each pair of trousers. f15 buttons on each pair of trousers. The thread, buttons and lacings are furnished by the contractor, who in turn, gets them from the Depot. Three women work at this shop during the day and finish on an average of 10 pairs of trousers each evening. One of these workers has two children and another three under 16 years of age. Another woman worked at the home of the owner during the day and finished about 10 pairs of trousers each night. The other three home workers (one with three children and another with four children under 16 years of age) have relatives who work in this shop and bring the work home. They average about 15 pairs of trousers per day. Practically all the home work is done in kitchens which serve as the family living rooms. The average hourly earnings of these seven home workers, as near as could be estimated from the available information, was between 15 and 20 cents per hour. Efficiency of the factory system vs. the home work system. For the majority of contractors, home finishing on naval garments is a thing of the past. There are two reasons for this. First, because orders have gone out from the Provision and Clothing Depot of the Navy that the state regulations regarding home work must be strictly observed in the making of naval garments, and, second and more important, is the reason that employers are realizing that home finishing does not pay. Some of the reasons given by manufacturers as to why it particularly does not pay on naval garments are that there is relatively little hand finishing to be done on them; these processes can be done much more quickly by machinery; the work is bulky to send out; and the pressure of war orders and the prospect of increasingly larger orders for some time ahead justifies them in making heavy initial expenditures for the installation of machinery by means of which they can attain maximum output in the shortest time. In short, the introduction of machinery for crow tacking, starring, button-sewing, and for hemming the bottoms https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 26 of the legs of trousers has changed the whole character of the home work situation as far as naval garments are concerned. This may be illustrated by briefly sketching the methods used in a few of the best shops. One manufacturer employed 70 workers and turned out 3,000 pairs of serge trousers per week. In his shop each pair of trousers passed through 28 pairs of hands. The work is sectionalized and a man carries the material from one operator to another. All the latest machinery is utilized. The crow tack process is divided into two parts, each being done by a different machine. The first machine embroiders the three points of the crow tack and the second machine outlines the crow tack with a long, heavy stitch. According to manufacturers, a machine crow tack is much stronger and more durable than one made by hand. A comparison of the amount of time used in making a crow tack by machine and by hand is sufficient. Two average experienced operators (one at each of the crow tack machines mentioned, above), can together put three crow tacks on each of 350 pair of trousers or make 1,050 crow tacks in a nine-hour day. This means that each operator makes 525 crow tacks in 540 minutes, or roughly speaking, makes a crow tack per minute, with a steady output during the day upon which the employer can depend.* Home workers have little conception of the actual amount of time required. The closest estimate is that it takes a woman from six to ten minutes to make a crow tack. In other words, it takes from six to ten times as long to make a crow tack by hand as by machine. Moreover the home workers' time is broken by household duties; their skill varies greatly and time is consumed in going for and taking back the work. In this same shop, eyelet machines operated by women can each turn out an an average of 4,000 eyelets in a 9-hour day, yet some home workers of the Navy Yard were found making eyelets by hand on white jumpers, because, as they said: "The sailor boys like them better by hand." Button sewing is still done by hand in many shops. In this shop, buttons are sewed on the trousers by men operating buttonsewing power machines at the rate of 3,500 buttons per operator in a 9-hour day. The only hand finishing done in this shop is cleaning the trousers of threads and putting lacings through the eyelets. *Figures as to daily output given by shop manager. 27 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Another manufacturer had several sub-contractors working for him in the manufacture of serge blouses and trousers and white duck trousers, but had no home work on any of his output. He has found it does not pay. He secures the material from the Depot; cuts it in his own rooms, and has the garments made up in sub-contract shops and other shops under his control. He produces for the Navy an average of 3,500 navy blue and white duck blouses and 3,500 pairs of trousers per day. This means that the production of blouses in his shops is never held up because of the slow output of tape hands and star hands, as is frequently the case under the present home work system of the Navy. Several of the contractors making blouses who have to use the collars made by the home workers remarked to the visitor that their output was often limited and held up because of the difficulty in getting from the Depot the finished collars (taped and starred by the home workers) in sufficient and regular amounts. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis CHAPTER III. THE SYSTEM OF PRODUCTION THE SECOND YEAR OF THE WAR. LARGE CONTRACT PRODUCTION During the first year of the war, the Navy Department was able to handle the clothing of its enlisted men by the old time method of piecework production, but the war has changed the situation in two ways. Large clothing manufacturers are finding their market increasingly cut off by the war as more and more men are wearing only the khaki or navy blue. At the same time the Army and the Navy are suddenly confronted with demands for enormous quantities of clothing as shown in Table 1. The manufacturers are therefore willing to bid for contracts to make uniforms and the Government is turning to them since they have the equipment for large scale production. Bids for the making of about 6,000,000 garments for the Navy were advertised for May 9th, 1918, as follows: 500,000 blue cloth trousers; 500,000 blue serge or flannel overshirts; 250,000 blue serge or flannel undress jumpers; 1,000,000 white working jumpers; 1,000,000 white working trousers; 100,000 chief petty officers' blue flannel shirts; 200,000 sailors' overcoats; 25,000 chief petty officers' uniforms of blue cloth or serge (double-breasted coat, vest and trousers) 100,000 chief petty officers' uniforms of white drill; 10,000 chief petty officers' overcoats. The Provisions and Clothing Depot in Brooklyn still cuts the garments and provides all materials used in making them up. The contractors at their own risk and expense call at the Depot for the supplies and return the garments to the Depot. This provision practically excludes all manufacturers outside the immediate vicinity of the depot because they can not pay express charges and compete with those who do not have to meet this additional expense. Bidders must submit their bids on affidavit stating specifically of the shops in which all work is to be done; their inlocation the terest in these shops; the firm name under which they do business, https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 29 and no work can be done at other shops except on written authority from the Officer-in-Charge. They must state the date on which they can commence work; the number of garments they can deliver weekly and the number of garments they will have to keep out in operation to deliver this weekly production. Bidders must also put up a bond sufficiently large to insure the proper performance of the contract and cover the value of all material and garments held. About 25 manufacturers were awarded the contracts for making up this great number of garments. None were for lots of less than 25,000 garments and the majority were for las of 100,000 to 200,000 garments with some contracts as large as 400,000 garments. Among the manufacturers receiving the large naval contracts were manufacturers of men's suits and shirts and women's dresses and waists who must seek a new market because of the war. These new manufacturers enter the field as severe competitors for the small manufacturers who have been making naval uniforms for 20 years or so in small orders and on piece rates set by the Government. TABLE 4 SHOWING SIZE OF CONTRACTS UNDERTAKEN BY CONTRACTORS IN COMPETITIVE MARKET AND COMPARING THEIR RATES WITH THE PIECEWORKERS LABOR PRICES. GARMENTS Number Manufacturers Receiving Contracts Number Garments Contracted for Rates Awarded Contractors Min. Max. Min. $0.89 Max. Pieceworkers Labor Prices Serge Blue Trousers 5 25,000 150,000 Blue Serge Overshirts 4 25,000 250,000 .46* .67 .55* Blue Serge Undress Jumpers 4 25,000 100,000 .42 .44 .44 White Working Jumpers 4 200,000 400,000 .175 .22 .25 White Working Trousers 6 100,000 350,000 .3875 .45 .50 Chief Petty Officers' Shirts 2 25,000 75,000 .275 .28 .35 $0.95 $1 . 10 *Taped and starred collars furnished. Few of the old.time pieceworkers bid on the contracts and in most cases where they did, they submitted the rates at which they https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 30 had been making uniforms on a piecework basis, and were underbid by the large manufacturers. One hundred sixty-eight pieceworkers were still on the rolls of Depot in June, 1918. Indeed, they produced most of Brooklyn the the Navy through the summer of 1918. For the first for the uniforms large contract system was to slow up production. new tendency of the rs have never made the naval uniforms manufacture Some of these cuts which the Provisions Depot will short use to before. They try the force of skilled workers on this have not do not accept. They large proportion of their garments a and particular type of product which delay the delivery contracts large hold are rejected. They to meet the standard refail they if of large numbers of garments therefore been kept at have rs quired. The piecework manufacture in the making experienced full capacity as they are equipped for and of the Navy uniforms. PIECEWORK PRODUCTION. Geographical Distribution of Shops. The factories and shops making naval uniforms on a piecework basis at the beginning of the second year of the war cover a wide geographical area. Thirteen different cities, villages or suburbs appear on the list of hands or pieceworkers on naval uniforms prepared by the Depot in June, 1918. They are distributed as follows: TABLE 5 SHOWING GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF PIECEWORKERS ON NAVAL UNIFORMS IN JUNE, 1918. Number of Hands Making Navy Uniforms 155 Location Long Island Brooklyn Corona Flushing Glendale Jamaica Lake Konkonkomo Maspeth Middle Village Rockaway Park Richmond Hill Union Course Woodhaven New York City Total https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 130 1 2 1 1 1 • 10 1 2 3 1 2 13 168 31 These figures do not represent the total number of shops. One of the New York manufacturers had 16 shops at the time of the visit in June, 1918, and one in Brooklyn had eight shops. Ninety-four of these hands were garment makers, making undress jumpers, overshirts, trousers, overcoats, and hats, and 74 were star hands and tape hands. The 36 tape hands merely sew the three rows of white braid or tape on the sailor collar and the 38 star hands embroider the two stars on the corners of the sailor collar. All the tape hands are located in Brooklyn except one at Lake Konkonkomo, L. I. The star hands are scattered over eight cities or villages in the following districts: TABLE 6 SHOWING GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF STAR HANDS ON NAVAL UNIFORMS. Number Star Hands in Each City Location 37 Long Island 30 2 Brooklyn Flushing Rockaway Park Jamaica Woodhaven Richmond Hill Corona 1 1 1 1 1 1 New York City 38 Total Production. Stars and Taped Collars. Some of the star and tape hands are women home finishers who can carry the bundles of collars back and forth. The wide variation in output, however, shows that most of them must employ helpers. Four of the tapers and 11 of the star makers produce on a large scale, making 2,000 or more collars each month. Two firms tape 3,200 collars a month. Two firms star 4,480 collars, one stars 6,880 collars and one 7,740 collars a month. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 32 TABLE 7 SHOWING WEEKLY OUTPUT OF STAR AND TAPE HANDS ON NAVAL UNIFORMS. NUMBER WORKERS MAKING SPECIFIED AMOUNT NUMBER Tape Hands 8 6 12 2 2 Less than 500 collars 500 collars and less than 1,000 1,000 collars and less than 2,000 2,000 collars and less than 3,000 3,200 collars 3,280 collars 4,480 collars 6,880 collars 7,740 collars Star Hands 5 5 16 6 ... 1 2 1 1 30* Total 37t *6 firms not reported. t1 firm not reported. Taping the collars is also done in the large factories which make the overshirts. The factory making overshirts in large quantities finds it profitable to have its own taping machines, which are doubleneedle sewing machines with an attachment for holding the tape firm and straight as it is fed under the needles and stitched down on both edges at the same time. Even this work is sectionalized, one worker stitching only the first row, a second worker stitching only the second row and a third worker stitching only the third row. The star embroidery machine, however, is a big cumbersome Swiss embroidery machine which only a few manufacturers, who make navy uniforms on a large scale, would find it advantageous to own. Many of the manufacturers, both large and small, therefore, receive their collars already made or at least already starred from the Depot. The machine makes a much prettier and more perfect star than the hand workers. The star hands employed before the war will undoubtedly be retained during the war, but hand-starring is already doomed with the appearance of the embroidery machine in the industry, and more and more of it will be done by the machines which make twelve dozen stars at one time. The difficulty of matching the material of the collar with the material of the middy on which it is to be sewed is also an important influence in abolishing outside taping and starring of collars. In https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 33 the factory each layer of cloth for every part of the garment is numbered or labeled so each section of the garment is made from the same piece of cloth. This is impossible when the collars are made by different people. Undress Jumpers. The undress jumpers of blue flannel and of white cotton are also made by both home workers and manufacturers. These undress jumpers are similar to the overshirts except that they are made of lighter weight material, do not have the stars and tape on the collar, or the cuffs on the sleeves. Three of the 39 undress jumper hands made an average of less than 100 jumpers a month. The majority (23) made from 100 to 500 jumpers each month. Five shop-keepers made 500 and less than 1,000 jumpers per month, and seven had a weekly output of 1,000 and less than 5,000 jumpers. One firm manufactured 25,080 jumpers a month giving some indication of the size of the factory. Blue Flannel 0vershirts. The overshirts which are made of heavy blue serge or flannel are difficult to make because of the heavy material used, the double yoke, setting in of the pocket and the collar, and the necessity for a tailored finish. They are made mostly in factories and by men operators. Twelve of the 21 overshirt hands produced less than 500 overshirts a month. Six made from 1,000 to 5,000 shirts and three made 5,000 or more, one making 25,000 shirts a month. Blue Flannel Trousers. The trousers are made in the factories almost entirely. Thirty processes are involved in making the sailors' trousers. Fifteen buttonholes and 15 buttons must be sewed on, double stitching around the belt and at the base of the pockets and the bottoms of the trousers must be felled so the stitches do not show through. Specialized machines make quick work of these processes but handwork and ordinary foot-power sewing-machines would be too slow to be profitable. None of the 21 trousers makers make less than 2,000 pairs a month. Four made from 15,000 to 21,000 a month and one made 62,292 pairs.a month. Overcoats and Jackets. The sailors' overcoats which are made of 30 ounce cloth and lined with heavy serge are made entirely in the factory. Each factory on the list produced from 11,000 to 12,000. overcoats each month. Men operatives do almost all the work on the overcoat. Women do the marking and cleaning, stitch the sleeve linings, the coat linings, fell the inside coat sleeve at the shoulder, make the pocket facings, trim the collars and flaps, and sew on the big buttons by hand. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 34 White Hats. The white sailor hats are made by only three firms, two in Brooklyn and one in New York. One Brooklyn firm makes 250,000 White hats a month, which is more than the other two put together. The other Brooklyn firm makes 17,750 hats a month and the New York firm only 7,200 hats a month. This is light work and is done entirely by girls. The largest firm, whose factory was visited, had developed a good deal of specialized automatic machinery for stitching the hat bands, which contain over 60 rows of stitching to stiffen the band. The band stitching machines run automatically so one girt can oversee three or four machines. Sailors' Blue Caps. The largest white hat manufacturer also has a factory which makes the sailors' blue caps and white tops of officers' caps. Increase in Number of Pieceworkers Making Navy Uniforms. During thefirst year of the war, the Clothing Depot continued the old system of giving out its work in lots as large as the shop or factory • could handle. Some of the old pieceworkers greatly increased their capacity. One of the manufacturers who had been making navy uniforms along with orders for civilian clothes for 20 years or more cancelled all orders for the latter at the outbreak of the war. He gave over his shop entirely to making the navy uniforms and took over in addition several shops which had been making dresses. At the time of the visit he had eight shops working on the Navy clothing. New factories also agreed to make uniforms because the war had cut off their trade. The following table shows the increase in the number of firms making naval uniforms during the first year after the declaration of war. Many of these firms make three or four different kinds of garments. They are listed for only one product. The interest of this table lies in the type of product which has been taken over by new "hands." The star and tape hands have almost trebled, the undress jumper hands have increased 50 per cent. and the trousers hands have doubled. Many of the new firms have not the equipment and do not care to bother with starring and taping the collars. The Depot must provide the completed collars to these manufacturers. This undoubtedly means some increase in the number of home workers. Nine https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 35 of the 21* tape hands employed since April, 1917 made less than 500 collars a month, but eight made more than 1,000 collars. One large firm tapes 2,960 and one 3,200 collars a month. ' TABLE 8 SHOWING INCREASE IN NUMBER OF FIRMS MAKING NAVY UNIFORMS SINCE OUR ENTRANCE INTO THE WAR. NUMBER FIRMS MAKING NAVY UNIFORMS PRODUCT Before April 1917 Since April 1917 Total Stars Taped Collars Undress Jumpers Overshirts Trousers Overcoats Sailors' Hats 10 9 18 20 11 3 2 28 27 26 2 12 38 36 44 22 23 3 2 Total 73 95 168 - Only seven of the 28 star hands taken on since April, 1917 starred less than 1,000 collars a month and seven made more than 2,000 collars. The overshirts, overcoats and hats are still handled by the old manufacturers who were on the rolls before April, 1917. The trousers involve less innovations and could be taken over more easily by manufacturers of civilian clothing. Types of Shops and Factories and Physical Conditions of Work. The factories and shops in which the naval uniforms are made vary greatly in size and equipment. In one afternoon one may visit a factory in Brooklyn which occupies two floors of a threestory wooden building designed to house three families, the owner occupying the other floor as a residence. We find shops occupying one floor of a small four or five story building, or all four floors of a factory building. In New York, we find shops springing up over night on the first floor of empty store buildings; we visit factories occupying a loft which rents for $5,000.00 a year q.nd again big factories filling six or seven stories all owned by one firm. *Amount not reported for 5 tape hands. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 36 In Brooklyn. The Brooklyn factories, which predominate on the Depot's list of pieceworkers range from a single floor in a factory building employing about 30 workers and owned by a man, or two floors of a three-story wooden building designed to house three families with the owner, a woman, occupying one floor for living quarters, to four and five story factory buildings owned and operated by one man. One Brooklyn manufacturer owns eight factories ranging from 30 workers to 150 workers. Some of the buildings have iron stairways and some have only wooden stairways leading to the third, fourth and fifth floors where women work. In general, these buildings are small and fairly welllighted with windows on two or three sides. The smaller shops and factories are crowded, the machines placed end to end as close as possible and most of the open space piled high with cut materials from the Depot or completed garments ready to go back. In some of the establishments only one type of garment, trousers, overshirt, etc. is made in a workroom. In others, not only different woolen but different cotton garments are made side by side presenting a most confusing situation to the visitor. One girl is making blue flannel trousers; the girl next to her, white blouses; the girl across the table, blue flannel overshirts. This occurs where the manufacturer has several small assignments for several hundred of the different kinds of garments. The floors of the buildings visited were very clean and the uniforms were usually kept on low platforms, tables, on the seat beside the worker, or in large boxes set close to the machine between the workers. In New York. The New York plants usually occupy upper floors in high buildings between 21st and 30th streets west of Fifth Avenue, though one was visited in an empty store building on the first floor. Some of these factory workrooms are rented for $5,000.00 a year with practically no equipment for the comfort of the workers. In one of these $5,000.00 lofts, only one side of the room had natural daylight from the windows. A small space was boxed off on one side of the room by a three-sided panel wall extending up about six feet, within which the women hung their coats and wraps. An open sink, stopped up and filled with water at one end and several porcelain https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 37 basins on the wall at the other end of the workroom constituted the washing facilities. In this factory, large piles of uniforms were stacked on the floor back of the workers' chairs. Physical Conditions. Toilet facilities in most of these factories both in Brooklyn and New York were most primitive. In two factories, one toilet on one side of the workroom was boxed off by a wooden partition. One was screened only by a door at least three feet from the floor. In two contract factories in New York, one of which made both army and navy uniforms, the power-machine operators sat on long low wooden benches in front of the machines; men and women, tall and short workers, sat side by side. The benches seemed low and certainly were not equally adapted to all the workers. The New York State law says: "suitable seats" shall be .provided for the workers. Most of the workrooms visited in Brooklyn were well lighted with windows on two and three sides which supplied the comparatively small rooms adequately with daylight. Some of the largest workrooms in the New York factories however, required artificial light in the center and sides of the workroom farthest from the windows. This light was supplied by shaded electric bulbs placed close to the needles of the machine. In none of the factories were there lunchrooms or any place to eat lunch. In one which was visited at the noon hour, half a dozen,workers sat eating their lunch at the machines. The others had left the building. One of the largest manufacturers in New York said he provided hot coffee for lunch but there was no place to drink it except in the workroom. In general, the uniforms seem to be well looked after in the factories. The floors are kept very clean, but usually the uniforms are not allowed on the floor being kept on platforms, in boxes, or on the seats. In some cases, the Provisions and Clothing Depot has not been willing to allow the uniforms to be made in factory work rooms approved by the State Factory Inspection Department because it demanded better conditions for the manufacture of naval clothing. On the other hand, the comfort of the workers in the factories seems to rest with the individual employers. Two inspectors are employed by the Navy who say they get around to the shops and factories about once in every two weeks. The home workers are https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 38 visited less frequently. The garments are not fumigated when returned to the Depot, which makes it most important that they should be made in clean and healthful places. Personnel. The personnel of a factory making Navy uniforms depends largely on the particular garment manufactured. In a large shop making overcoats and overshirts which employed about 350 workers not more than 50 were women. These garments are heavy tailored work which requires skill and strength. These men are aliens and will not be withdrawn by the war. They do practically all the machine work in the factory. The women do the cleaning (cutting threads); fell the sleeves in the coats by hand and sew on the buttons by hand. The buttons on the overcoat are about the size of a silver dollar and were sewed on by hand in the shop visited. A definite number of stitches through the button and around it are specified and required. The women who sewed on the large buttons and felled in the sleeves were old women, and among them worked an old man of 70. Only a half dozen or so young women worked at the machine on such simple processes as stitching on tickets, stitching coat linings, etc. In a trouser factory owned by the same firm the women were mostly engaged in sewing on buttons by hand. Both these shops were entirely unionized. About a dozen colored women were employed in each of these factories, cleaning or cutting threads. In a Brooklyn factory where overcoats were made on one side of the room, only men worked. The owner of this shop had done naval work for more than 20 years and most of his overcoat operators had been with him from 15 to 20 years. On the other side of the work-room where white jumpers and petty officers' white suits were made, mostly women were employed. Several men were working on white wear because there was nothing for them to do on the heavy work. In another small factory employing about 40 workers and making white trousers only women worked. White hats and caps are made entirely by women. In making the blue caps, men cut the materials, the canvas, make the whalebone bands which go into the sailors' blue cap, but girls do most of the stitching. In one of the large New York clothing factories which had recently received a large contract for navy trousers, men and women did the same stitching processes. Men had predominated but women https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 39 were coming in. The scarcity of workers had opened the opportunity for women who were being taken on more and more in this factory. Processes in Making the Naval Uniforms. The heavy serge or flannel is usually cut at the Clothing Depot in 40 layers and the various parts of the garment come to the manufacturer in piles of 40 layers. As serge varies in weight and shade, it is most important that all the parts of the garment come from the same piece. The first thing the manufacturer does when he lays out these piles of sleeves, yokes, fronts, backs, collars, etc., on a table or platform is to number each layer either by a chalk mark or by a ticket tacked on by a special tacking machine which takes two or three stitches over and over and automatically clips the thread. The girl who operates the machine tacks the ticket in two or three places for safety. All the parts from the first layer are labeled one number, from the second labeled another number, etc. The assembler must put only pieces of the same number into a garment. Another preliminary process is called fitting. Some of the small accessory pieces, such as flaps, flies, and pockets, are not cut exactly to fit in the cutting room. Edges must be rounded off, trimmed or notched with a big knife on the cutting table. New contractors frequently get into trouble because they are not sufficiently familiar with the construction of the particular garment to know this. The Clothing Depot provides all materials and requires heavy black silk thread to be used throughout the naval garments. The finest grade serges and flannels and only the highest grade workmanship are accepted. Undress Jumpers. The undress jumpers are made of blue flannel and of white cotton. The Provisions Depot sets the rate of 44 cents each for blue undress jumpers and 25 cents each for white undress jumpers for its "pieceworkers." These prices are subject to change, however, on account of the recent low bidding of the large contractors. Both men and women operators work on these undress jumpers, the women producing about 15 per cent. less according to one firm which employs both. The white cotton middy is also listed with the undress jumpers. The office of the clothing workers' union submitted three occupations and wage classifications for the making of this garment; power machine operators, piece workers, $20.00 to $30.00; zig zag operators, $12.00; and cleaners, $8.00 to $11.00. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 40 The processes are described in Bulletin No. 3, The Employment of Women in the Charleston Navy Yard Factories. Blue Flannel Overshirt. The blue flannel overshirt with starred and taped collars furnished, are made by the pieceworkers at a rate of 55 cents each. The manager of a large unionized shop says that women produce about 25 per cent. less than the men, operators. The processes are as follows: Processes. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. PA 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. Stitching seams of collar and turning out. Starring collar. Taping collar. Making the pocket. Crow tacks at each end of the pocket. Joining the inside shoulder seam of the shirt front and back. ' Joining the outside shoulder seam of the yoke. Stitching the yoke to the shirt—two rows of stitching on a single needle machine. Stitching on the collar. Embroidering lower point of neck with button hole machine —clipped at upper end. Stitching seams of cuff. Stitching sleeve in six plaits to the cuff—turning out. Stitching cuff down with double needle machine. Stitching sleeves in the shirt. Closing inside seams of shirt and sleeve with special "closing on" machine. Hemming bottom of overshirts. Making eyelets with eyelet machine. Making buttonholes in cuffs. Tacking buttonholes. Sewing buttons on cuff by machine or hand. Putting tape in bottom. Tacking tape in bottom. Cleaning. Examining. Pressing on Hoffman Machine—by men. The office of the clothing workers' union submitted the following average weekly earnings for women on the following processes: Embroiders—pieceworkers, $20.00 to $30.00; collar tapers, $16.00 to $20.00; bushelers, $17.00 to $20.00; button markers, $13.00; sleeve turners, $13.00; sleeve matchers, $13.00 to $16.00; https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 41 closing, $25.00 to $35.00; pulling tape, $15.00 to $20.00; tacking tape, $13.00 to $17.00; lacers, $12.00 to $16.00; cleaners, $10.00 to $12.00; examiners, $13.00 to $21.00. Blue Cloth or Serge Trousers. The style of the sailors' trousers is quite different from the civilian trousers, requiring a good deal more work. They open across the front and down about siK inches on each side with thirteen buttons and buttonholes, representing the 13 original states, the Navy men tell us. Cloth or serge flaps fasten across the front underneath this front panel, fastened by two more buttons and buttonholes. These are called the bearers because they bear the 13 buttons. One of the first processes is to sew the two fronts together and the garment is practically completed before stitching up the back seam and the one inside seam of the trousers leg. At the base of the side placket and pocket, a special stitched design consisting of a double stitched oblong about 2 inches by 4 inches with diagonal rows of stitching from corner to corner strengthens the placket hole. The buttons are sewed on both by hand and by machine. The Navy requires that the stitching of the button shall not criss-cross from hole to hole so the buttons can be scrubbed. A few manufacturers have button sewing machines which sew on the button like hand-sewing in two parallel lines. The usual button sewing machine cannot be used. The Navy will not accept the buttonholes made by the usual buttonholing machine as they fray out with hard usage. A special buttonhole tacking machine gives the square end which characterizes the handmade buttonholes. The sailors' blue serge or cloth trousers goes through 30 ditifierent hands in one large shop employing a large number of women stitchers.. Processes. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Sewing on tickets by tacking machine. Fitting parts—cutting by hand. Linings turned. Join fronts and sew in lining. Stitch on buttons. Stitch on waistband. First double stitch around waistband. Sew lining in back. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 42 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. Second double stitch at base of placket. Stitching in pocket. Taping inside seam. Stitching back seam. Taping back seam. Marking eyelet holes. Making eyelets by eyelet machine. Making buttonholes by machine. Stitching tongue in back. Trimming bottoms of trousers. Turning in and felling bottoms. Pressing off on Hoffman pressing-machine operated by men. Marking buttons. Machine stitching buttons. Finishing buttons, clipping threads. Putting lacing in the back by hand. Cleaning trousers—snipping threads, etc. Crow toe—special machine. Crow toes—finishing. Examining. Buttonhole tacks. Final examination. The manager of a large unionized shop employing both men and women in making blue trousers says the women's output is about 35 per cent. less than that of the men. The office of the clothing workers' union submitted the following average weekly earnings for women on the following processes: Stampers, $10.00 to $13.00; hemming lining, $17.00; turners, $15.00 to $18.00; pants turners, $12.00 to $14.00; bottom sewers, pieceworkers, $16.00 to $20.00; embroiders, piecework, $20.00 to to $30.00; button sewers, piecework, $14.00 to $20.00; cleaners, $9.00 to $12.00; lacers, $10.00 to $14.00. White Working Trousers. Women predominate in the manufacture of white cotton trousers. The Provisions Depot sets the rate of 50 cents a pair for its pieceworkers. One firm which employs both men and women says the women's output is about 25 per cent. less than that of the men. The processes are described in Bulletin No. 3, The Employment of Women in the Charleston Navy Yard Factories. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 43 Sailors' Overcoats. The overcoats are made almost entirely by men except for facing the pockets, stitching linings, basting, felling seams, marking buttons and sewing on tickets. The Provisions Depot sets a rate ofl$2.80 each for its pieceworkers. White Hats and Sailor Blue Caps. sailor hat goes through 15 different pairs of hands white The processes: following during the Processes—White Hats. 1. Stitching three cornered sections of crown together. 2. Stitching tape over seams on double needle taping machine. 3. Snipping off ends of seams to make lower edge straight and less cumbersome. 4. Stitching in narrow cheese cloth head band. 5. Making hat bands. (a) Stitching two pieces together. (The band used to come in one four inch strip curving something like a letter S, but to save goods in cutting, the band now comes. in two curved pieces which must be stitched together.) (b) Doubling over the band, slipping in a canvas stiffening and basting by machine with two rows of long stitches. (c) Stitching bands with 60 rows of stitching by automatic machine. 6. Basting crown to band by machine. 7. Hemming inside head band on machine that hems both sides at once. 8. Stitching in inside head band. 9. Stitching loops in crown to hang hat by. 10. Cleaning. 11. Pressing. 12. Packing. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Processes—Blue Caps. Stitching circular top of serge and lining of blue and white gingham. Stitching outside circular strip—underside. Turning outside and finishing with two rows of stitching on double needle machine. Stitching canvas lining in band. Stitching on sweat band. Putting in whale bone—(bands made in sizes by men). Stitching ribbon bows. Putting on ribbon band and bow by hand. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 44 CHAPTER IV. SUMMARY. The uniforms for the Navy as shown in this report are made in two centers under two different systems of production; (1) in Brooklyn where the great majority of the uniforms are made under the "outside" piecework and contract system and (2) in Charleston, South Carolina where the white and blue cotton suits are made in Government-owned factories. Continuing the old home work system of production on a piece rate established by the Navy Department, the industry in Brooklyn has grown until at the beginning of the second year of the present war, 168 "pieceworkers" were taking out naval uniforms from the Provisions and Clothing Depot to be made up in a great variety of work places ranging from the small home employing no workers outside the family to the large factory employing several hundred workers. The new contract system of competitive bids for making large lots of uniforms which was inaugurated at the beginning of the second year of the war is a part of the new general policy of encouraging direct dealing with manufacturers and producers. Bidders are definitely committed to manufacture the uniforms in specified shops, to guarantee a definite weekly output and to insure the proper performance of their contract. At present, bundle women, home shopowners, factory pieceworkers and manufacturers who have secured large contracts by competitive bidding, are making the naval uniforms under different systems of production. Home work production, such as the taping and starring of collars by the bundle women is uneconomical because: (1) It can be done better and faster by specialized machines. (2) It is difficult to match the color and material of the collar and blouse which have been made in separate places: (3) It requires an unjustifiable amount of handling, transportation, and inspection as the collars go from one bundle woman to another: (4) Under this system it is practically impossible to insure that the naval uniforms are made under safe and sanitary conditions; https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 45 (5) The earnings of the home workers are low. Two-thirds earned less than $12.00 a week, without considering reductions resulting from many charges. In 40 per cent. of the families visited, their entire earnings were obtained from the Navy work. The foundation for large scale production by a comparatively few manufacturers is undoubtedly well started. The old home work system will probably still persist for some time, however, for three main reasons: (1) the strong pressure exerted on the Navy to recognize the faithful service of old employees; (2) the lack of special equipment for starring and taping collars in many of the large shops receiving the large contracts and (3) the inability of the large manufacturers to meet the terms of their contracts and to adapt themselves to Navy standards and requirements. Contract System. The competitive bidding and award to the lowest bidder also presents the serious problems of insuring (1) quick deliveries of acceptable garments and (2) proper conditions of employment. 1. The manufacturer is awarded the contract before he has been required to produce a sample lot of uniforms to prove that he can satisfactorily meet the terms of his contract. As a result, weeks elapse after he receives his contract before he has organized his workroom and working force to make the uniforms he has contracted for. In a number of cases he has turned in large deliveries below the standard which the Provisions and Clothing Depot can accept. A great loss in time and services results—the wasted time and services of (a) The workers who do defective work on the uniforms in the factory; (b) The men who transport them to the Depot; (c) The inspectors who look them over and refuse them, (d) The men who transport them back to the factory; (e) The workers who repair the defects; (f) The men who transport them back to the Depot; (g) The Depot inspectors who reinspect them. The making, transportation and inspection has thus been unjustifiably increased. (2) Some of the contractors have hastily acquired new premises to handle the large contracts. Crowded work rooms, wooden stairways, wooden benches, poor lighting, inadequate and primitive sanitary facilities and unclean floors are found in these factories as https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 46 well as among home workers and home shops. The wages are in some cases lower than those paid in the smaller shops which are being crowded out by competition. The uniforms are sometimes less well cared for during the processes of manufacture whether made in homes or factories. The uniforms are not sterilized on their return to the Clothing Depot. The conditions under which they are made are therefore most important. The Paymaster of the Clothing Depot appreciates the importance of production under healthful conditions and welcomes the opportunity to bring more and more of it under the factory system. Two young inspectors for the Navy are maintained to inspect these many work shops, but, for the most part, the Navy assumes that the inspection of privately owned shops rests with the State inspection department. This report shows the inadequacy of this method of supervision. Under these circumstances, it seems conclusive that the Navy Department is the only agency which can enforce proper working conditions. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 47 MEMBERS OF THE COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY. Officers and Executive Committee Ex Officio (See page 3) ' Madison, Wis. KITTLE, MRS. WM ABBOTT, EDITH Chicago, Ill. BAGLEY, MRS. FREDERICK Boston, Mass. LATHROP, JULIA Washington, D. C• LOGAN, MRS. THOS. F. Washington, D. C. BAKER, MRS. NEWTON D Washington, D. C. Lockport, N. Y. BARNARD, KATE Oklahoma City, Okla. MACAULEY, MARY J BARNUM, GERTRUDE Washington, D. C. MCCALLIEN, ELIZABETH .. Philadelphia, Pa. Chicago,.111. MCENERNEY, MARY BASS, LAURA S Des Moines, Ia. BOWEN, ANNA MACIEJEWSKI, MRS. Boston, Mass. EMILIA Detroit, Mich. BREMER, MRS. HARRY... New York City MCNALLY, GERTRUDE N Washington, D. C. BRESETTE, LINNA E Topeka, Kan. MALONEY, ELIZABETH Chicago, Ill. CASE, LUCY Seattle, Wash. MANN, DR. KRISTINE New York City CHRISTMAN, ELIZABETH Chicago, Ill. MARSHALL, FLORENCE . New York City CHURCHILL, MRS. WIN5T0N.WiI1d80r, Vt. MARTIN, ANNA L Kalamazoo, Mich. Providence, R. I. CLARK, MRS. 0. H MARTIN, MRS. FRANLIN H Washington, D. C. CONROY, MARY Baltimore, Md. MASON, LUCY R Richmond, Va. Copp, TRACY Milwaukee, Wis. MORAN, MARY E Boston, Mass. CusHING, MRS. G. W. B. East Orange, N. J. Cheyenne, Wyo. MORTON, MRS. R. A. DALY, MARGUERITE Brooklyn, N Y. MOSKOWITZ, MRS. HENRY.New York City DERMITT, MARIE •Pittsburg, Pa. MURDOCH, MRS. W. L Birmingham, Ala. DINGMAN, MARY New York City MURPHY, MARY New York City DREIER, MARY New York City Baltimore, Md. NEARY, ANNA EATON, MRS. HORACE A. Syracuse, N. Y. Chicago, Ill. NESTOR, AGNES ECKMAN, JEANETTE Wilmington, Del. Boston, Mass. O'CONNOR, JULIA EDSON, MRS. KATHERINE P Sall Francisco, Cal. Brooklyn, N. Y. ODENCRANTZ, LOUISE FITZGERALD, ANNA Chicago, Ill. PErcorro, PROF. JESSICA.. Washington, D. C. FLETCHER, MRS. R. E New York City PETERSON, AGNES St. Paul, Minn. Chicago, Ill. FOLEY, EDNA Chicago, Ill. GARDNER, EVELYN GALE. Grand Rapids, Mich. REIDER, EDITH New York City RHODES, ANNA GILLESPIE, MABEL Boston, Mass. Westwood, Mass. RICE, MRS. GEO. T GUGGENHEIMER, AIMEE... Baltimore, Md. RICHARDSON,DR.ANNA M. Summit, N. J. HALEY, MARGARET Chicago, Ill. ROBINS, MRS. RAYMOND.. Chicago, Ill. HALLECK, MRS. R P Louisville, Ky. Cleveland, 0. RUMBOLD, CHARLCYFrE HAMILTON, DR. ALICE Chicago, Ill. Philadelphia, Pa. SANVILLE, FLORENCE HANEY, MARY, Chicago, Ill. Troy, N. Y. SCULLY, MARY A HANNAN., NELL Bellaire, 0. SHEARMAN, MARGARET H. Wilmington, Del. HEDGER, DR. CAROLINE.. . Chicago, Ill. SPRAGGON, MRS. SARAH. St. LOWS, MO. HOBBS, ANNA Concord, N. H. Chicago, Ill. STEGHAGEN, EMMA HUNT, ALICE W Providence, R. I. Chicago, Ill. SULLIVAN, OLIVE JAFFRAY, JULIA K Washington, D. C. TROWBRIDGE, MRS. E. G Winnetka, Ill. JANUARY, MRS. HARRY St. Louis, MO. Boston, Mass. TROY, MRS. WM. A JOHNSON, AGNES .Chicago, Ill. Portland, Ore. TRUMBULL, MILLIE R JONES, MYRTA Cleveland, 0. VANDERBILT, MR8. GEO. Washington, D. C. JUDAH, MRS. NOBLE Bismark, N. D. WARD, ALYDTH BRANDON, JR Dayton, 0. Utica, N. Y. WATSON, LUCY C KELLY, NELLIE Syracuse, N Y Washington, D. C. WILSON, AGNES Sharon, Pa. KING, MADELINE Worcester, Mass. YATES, ROSE KINGSBURY, SUSAN Bryn Mawr, Pa. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 48 COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY of the Advisory Commission of the Council of National Defense Council of National Defense Building WASHINGTON, D. C. • December 10th, 1917. PURPOSE The Committee on Women in Industry was appointed by the Committee on Labor to advise on means for safeguarding the health and welfare of women workers during the war. It aims to serve as a national center at this time for co-ordinating the efforts of existing organizations for the improvement of the conditions of women's employment, and through investigation to recommend methods of increasing the efficiency of women's work as an important factor in the successful conduct of the war. In the supreme test of the nation's strength and endurance, continuous production of war-supplies is the great service which the workers are called upon to perform. This aim can be attained only by insuring their health and welfare. In order to secure their fullest working capacity, wage-earning women must be assured proper hours, adequate remuneration and wholesome conditions of work. Moreover, women must be protected against the bad effects of overwork or unwholesome conditions not merely as workers whose efficiency is needed in the war, but as citizens upon whose well-being the future of the country largely depends. ORGANIZATION The Committee has a membership of eighty-four women, thirty-five of whom are representatives of labor. It holds himonthly meetings in Washington. The Executive Committee, consisting of fourteen members, holds meetings once a month. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis • 2 It outlines plans of work and supervises all field work and investigations. Twenty-three state committees have already been appointed to co-operate with the national committee in securing information about local conditions, to encourage co-operation between org-anieations representing the interests of wage-earning women in each state, to co-operate with the state departments of labor in protecting women workers, and to serve as a center of information regarding their conditions of work and their most effective use in local industries. The national committee co-ordinates the work of its state committees by keeping an oversight of the entire field, and serves as a channel of communication in reporting to the Government. The members of all committees serve without compensation. The Council of National Defense provides headquarters in its new building and also furnishes clerical help and use of the mailing frank for the national office. The additional funds required have been raised through contributions from persons interested in the purposes of the organization. State committees raise their own funds from local sources. CO-OPERATION WITH THE WOMAN'S COMMITTEE The Woman's Committee, appointed by the Council of National Defense to represent the interests of women and to co-ordinate their activities for the country during the war, includes women's work in its program. Plans for co-operation between the Woman's Committee and the Committee on Women in Industry are being satisfactorily developed in such a way as to insure united effort. In the majority of states the state chairman of the Committee on Women in Industry is also the representative of the industrial interests of the Woman's Committee. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis • 3 STANDARDS FOR THE EMPLOYMENT OF WOMEN IN WORK ON WAR SUPPLIES AS SUBMITTED BY The Committee on Women in Industry TO THE Advisory Commission of the Council of National Defense Your Committee on Women in Industry urges the adoption of the following standards for work done for the Government in order to secure the fullest possible protection for women wage-earners. They bear the chief burden of industrial readjustment caused by the war, and will increasingly replace men. In the present emergency it is essential to secure maximum continuous output compatible with the health and welfare of the workers. We cannot afford to ignore our own industrial experience or that of the other warring countries. In this supreme test of national strength and endurance short-sighted tnethods of manufacturing and unjust profiteering must not be allowed to prevail. The recommendations submitted herewith are not theoretical. They are based on the best industrial practice now being followed in the United States. In detail these recommendations are: 1.—Tenement House Work. No work shall he done in a room which is used for living purposes nor in any room having direct connection therewith in any dwelling or tenement. 2.—Child Labor. No child under the age of 16 years shall be employed. 3.—Protection of Mothers. No woman shall be employed during a period of two months prior or two months subsequent to childbirth. 4.—Wages. Wages shall be determined as follows: (a) The wages shall be the rate established under the latest collective agreements for the locality, for every industry and occupation in which such agreements exist. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 4 (h) Whenever there are no collective agreements, the minimum wages paid shall be based on the cost of living for the locality and shall be subject to increase as the cost of living increases. (c) Whenever women are employed for work customarily done by men they shall be paid the same rates as are paid the men. If the processes are not identical, an adjustment of wages should be made according to the skill and output of the workers. But in no case shall the wage scale for any department or process he reduced for no other reason than that women are replacing men. (d) A Wage Adjustment Committee shall, when necessary, determine rates of pay as above specified and shall adjust wages from time to time as rendered necessary by any increase in the cost of living and shall act in all disputes concerning wages. When a dispute occurs in any industry in which women are employed in appreciable numbers they shall have representation on the Adjustment Committee. 5.—Hours of Work. Adequate steps shall be taken to safeguard all employees from fatigue and overstrain, and to this end (a) Each employee shall have one day's rest in seven. (b) Eight hours shall constitute the working day unless Executive Order suspends the operation of the act limiting the hours of labor. In no case shall the hours exceed Jo per day and all overtime beyond 8 hours shall be paid at the rate of time and a half. (c) Women shall not be employed on night shifts. They shall in all cases he allowed a period of rest at night of at least eight hours. 6.—Seats. Wherever the nature of the work allows, seats with backs shall be provided and their use permitted. Wherever women must stand at their work, seats shall be provided and be readily accessible and time off allowed for their use at stated intervals. 7.—Extra Heavy and Extra Hazardous Occupations. The employment of women at extra heavy and extra hazardous occupations shall be restricted and safeguarded. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 5 Preference shall be given to older men, not subject to military service. 8.—Dangerous Trades. No woman shall he employed in any dangerous trades except under the regulations of the Divisional Committee on Industrial Diseases and Poisons of the National Committee on Labor, and she shall not be so employed until medical examination shall have established her fitness for the intended occupation and similar medical examinations shall be made at stated intervals to determine her fitness to continue such employment. g.—Heavy Lifting. No woman shall be required to lift repeatedly any heavier weight than 25 pounds, and no woman shall be employed for lifting heavy weights or pushing heavy trucks without medical examination to ascertain her fitness for such work. 'cp.—Exposure to Heat and Cold. No woman shall be employed where there is excessive heat or cold without medical examination to certify her physical fitness to endure such exposures and such examination shall be made at stated intervals to determine her fitness to continue such employment. The Committee will further include in its standards such recommendations affecting women as may be submitted by other committees of the Committee on Labor, including Welfare Work, Structural Safety, Fire Prevention, Dust and Fumes, Sanitation, Lighting and Industrial Diseases and Poisons. MEMBERSHIP OF THE COMMITTEE Officers and Executive Committee 1 MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN, Chairman EDITH CAMPBELL, - Vice Chairman MRS. V. EVERIT MACY, - Treasurer PAULINE GOLD MARK, - - Secretary MELINDA SCOTT (;RACE ABBOTT MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MARY ANDERSON FLORENCE C. THORNE CONBOY MRS. SARA A. MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MARY VAN KLEECK Committees. Standing And Chairmen of https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis • 6 STANDING COMMITTEES Committee on Industrial Standards PAULINE GOLDMARK, ChairMatt, New York City Committee on Foreign-Born Women MARY MCDOWELL, Chairman, Chicago, Ill. Committee on Living Conditions EDITH CAMPBELL, Cincinnati, Ohio Committee on Colored Women SOPHONISBA P. BRECKENRIDGE, Chicago, III. CHAIRMEN OF STATE COMMITTEES Alabama, California, Delaware, Illinois, Kansas, Kentucky, Maryland; Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New II ampshire, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Virginia, Washington, Wisconsin, Wyoming, https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis MRS. W. L. MURDOCH, MRS. KATHERINE P. EDSON, JEANETTE ECKMAN, MRS. RAYMOND ROBINS, LINNA BRESETTE, MRS. R. P. HALLECK, AIMEE OUGGENHEIMER, MRS. WM. AUGUSTUS TROY, MRS. ORTON H. CLARK, AGNES PETERSON, MRS. JOSEPHINE JANUARY, ANNA HOBBS, MELINDA SCOTT, MARY DREIER, ALDYTH WARD, MYRTA JONES, MRS. L.. GEE, FLORENCE SANVILLE, ALICE W. HUNT, LUCY MASON, LUCY CASE, MRS. WM. H. KITTLE, R. A. MORTON, Birmingham, Ala. San Francisco Wilmington Chicago Topeka Louisville Baltimore Newton, Mass. Kalamazoo St. Paul St. Louis Concord Irvington New York City Bismarck Cleveland Portland Philadelphia Providence Richmond Seattle Madison Cheyenne 7 OTHER MEMBERS Abbott, Edith Allinson, May Bagley, Mrs. Frederick Baker, Mrs. Newton D. Barnard, Kate Barnum, Gertrude Bowen, Anna Bremer, Mrs. Harry M Christman, Elizabeth Churchill, Mrs. Winston Conroy, Mary Copp, Tracy Daly, Margaret Eaton, Mrs. Horace A. Fitzgerald, Anna Fletcher, Mrs. R. E. Foley, Edna Gardner, Evelyn G. Gillespie, Mabel Haley, Miss Margaret Hamilton, Dr. Alice Haney, Miss Mary Hannan, Miss Nell Hedger, Dr. Caroline Jaffray, Julia K Johnson, Agnes Judah, Mrs. Noble B., Jr. Kelly, Nellie King, Madeline Kingsbury, Susan M McCallien, Elizabeth McEnerney, Mary McNally, Gertrude N Macauley, Mary J. Maciejewski, Mrs. E. Maloney, Elizabeth Mann, Dr. Kristine Marshall, Florence Martin, Anna L. Martin, Mrs. Franklin H. Moran, Mrs. Mary E. Moskowitz, Mrs. Henry Murphy, Mary Neary, Anna https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis w Chicago, Ill. New York, N. Y. Boston, Mass. Washington, D. C. Oklahoma City, Okla. New York, N. Y. Boston, Mass. New York, N. Y. Chicago, Ill. Winston, Vt. Baltimore, Md. Milwaukee, Wis. Brooklyn, N. Y. Syracuse, N. Y. Chicago, Ill. New York, N. Y. Chicago, Ill. Grand Rapids, Mich. Boston, Mass. Chicago. Ill. Chicago, Ill. 'Chicago, Ill. Bellaire, Ohio Chicago, III. Washington, D. C. Chicago, Ill. Dayton, 0. Syracuse, N. Y. . Sharon, Pa. Bryn Mawr, Pa. Philadelphia, Pa. Chicago, Ill. Washington, D. C. Lockport, N. Y. Detroit, Mich. Chicago, Ill. New York, N. Y. New York, N. Y. Providence, R. I. Washington, D. C. Boston, Mass. New York, N. Y. New York, N. Y. Baltimore, Md. 8 Nestor, Agnes O'Connor, Julia Odencrantz, Louise C. Peixotto, Jessica Reider, Edith Rice, Mrs. George T Scully, Mrs. Mary Shearman, Margaret H Spraggon, Mrs. Sarah Steghagen, Emma Sullivan, Olive Trowbridge, Mrs. Lydia Trumbull, Mrs. Millie R. Vanderbilt, Mrs. George Watson, Lucy Carlile Wilson, Agnes Yates, Rose Dermitt, Marie Dingman, Mary Lathrop, Julia Logan, Mrs. Thos. F Richardson, Dr. Anna M Rumbold, Charlotte Chicago, Ill. Boston, Mass. Brooklyn, N. Y. Berkeley, Cal. Chicago, Ill. Westwood, Mass. Troy, N. Y. Wilmington, Del. St. Louis, Mo. Chicago, Ill. Chicago, Ill. Chicago, Ill. Portland, Ore. Washington, D. C. Utica, N. Y. Washington, D. C. Worcester, Mass. Pittsburg, Pa. New York, N. Y. Washington, D. C. Washington, D. C. Summit, N. J. Cleveland, Ohio AMY HEWES, Executive Secretary, Office: Room 515, Council of National Defense Building, Washington, D. C. Telephone Main 9440—Extension 44. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis — o.,._11111 .414p ,r COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON Decembev 19, 1918. FIELD DIVISION Circular No. 35. EMPLOYMENT OF WOMEN TO THE CHAIPMEN OF THE STATE DIVISIONS OF THE 'fl.rMENIS COMMITTEE: The re-employment of returning soldiers and sailors and of workers released from war industries is the most immecEate and pressing probiem before the country. Chief res.9onsibility for the direction of this work rests with the U. S...1loyelisn3.FcrIrthe and a plan for cooper-tion with that service in the establj.elment of local bureaus has been trnsmitted to you with Bulletin No. 13, Circular No. 28 of the Field Division. Women have e. specia2 responsibiTity d.t this time in securing employment for waren rele.sed from war industries and. in Safeguarding women Workers from injilstice and exploitation. While it is just that a. returning soldier or sailor should be given back the position he held before the war if he desires it, this policy should not be made the pretext for forcing women into lower paid and less desirable work. At the s‘.,me time theta must be insistence on the principle of equal pay for equal work, lest women be used to loreak down the hardwon industrial stand-rds estblished by men. To secure the assistance of women in the solution of employment problems ,and to insure the representation if their point of view, the U. S. Employment Service has announced the policy of appointing a woman assistant to the federal director in e:.ch state, two women on the stite advisory courtil and two women on each community labor board. One wontin on each .advisory council and community labor board shculd be nominated by, and represent the workers of the community While the other should represent Ev:Ji_lgement. Both have full voting power. Reports indice.te that in many states this plan for the participation of women in the work of the U. S. Employment Service has not been carried to completion. The need for immediate action in this matter might be brought to the attention of the Feder.11 Director and the State Advisory Board of the U. S. Employment Service by the State Divisions Ind local units of the !1 ;cm,alls Committee, and if necessary, the nemes of women well qualified for these responsible positions might be suggested. Before making such suggestions however, representatives of organized workers and of employers should be consulted. General Order B-8, Sept. 3, 1918, of the U. S. Employment Service defines the qualifications of the women rapresentatives 45 follows: https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis -3- Circulur Jo. 35. I "It is nignly es3enti-1 that o-ch representative a woman mno h_s shall vith th.J problems involved, th_Lt she sh-11 command the r ,s,;ect o2 the community, And sh.1i be cpA,ble of takinr • bro34 vision of tho F.tionts needs and of exercising consecvltive judgment." Enclosed herewith is st-,tement issued by the Womln in Industry Srvice of the U. S. Department of Labor, relltive to the employment of women in the re.constructien period. The industrial code Ahich should govern the conditions of =monis work was issued on December 12 by the "man in Industry Service with the a;nrroval of the 17,.a. L:J.bor PolLcis DoIrd .Lnd has -lre-Idy been tr_A•nsmitted to you. V3ry truly yours, ..-t 1 6 Associate Director. Pnclosura. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Issued through Inforlation and Jkluction Servic„J, :ducati6nal For Release Dc 1P, 191. U. S. DEPTNT 07 LAFOR 7oman in Industry Service WASHINGTON STh;;DARDS GOVER"ING THE E—PLOn::FT OF —0—EN IN INDUSTRY. In peace or in war, women's rork is essential to the nation. During, the war thu experience of all countries has shon that ,7or:Jen wore ready and able to take the places of men 1-ithdrai:'n for military service. So important did their work become that in Great Britain it was actually the War Department which declared that "efforts must be devoted to amplify and extend the scope of usefulness by which alone our country can hope to emerge victorious from a struggle without parallel in her long and glorious history." The experience to which the var has drawn public attention was true before the war and will be equally true when peace is restorA. Before the war the number of women gainfully employed increased in the decade before 1910 from five to eight million, of whom two million, five hundred thousand, were in manufacturing, trade, in numbers and transportation or public service. Since then the indications art, that industry. in important proportions, women have beco:Jc increasingly The greater necessity for control of the standards of 'omen's employment is due y than men. Reconto the fact that women have been in a r'eaker position economicall to conserve of safeguards -building up new a for opportunity an give struction 1-ill it make to and impossible Tmen, of health the and efficiency alike the industrial in stanlowering competitors unwilling as them exploit for selfish interests to are yhich for the relations industrial and conditions dards of wages, hours, —orkin: country. the of citizenship the and best interests of the ,-orkers, the industries During the y!ax, by vote of the War Labor Policies Board all contracts of the federal departments have contained a clause rec'uiring full compliance: with state labor laws, and in each state an official of the state labor department has been deputized by the head of the contracting departments of the federal government to co-operate —ith federal agencies in enforcing these provisions of the contract. This affords a basis and a precedent for continued relations between state and fe....eral agencies in the up-building of standards for 'omen's labor. As the number of contracts grcris fewer with the coming of peace, the responsibility of the states increases. But the recognition of the national and international importance of standards of labor conditions —ill still be oaramount since in peace, no less than in war, the nation will depcnd for its prosperity upon the productive efficiency of its workers, No other foundation for commercial success —ill be so sure as the conservation of those practices in industry i-hich make for the free and effective cooperation of the riorkers. Protection of the health of women workers is vital as an economic as vell as a social measure of reconstruction. Therefore at this time in recognition of the national itportance of i:.omun's 17ork and its conditions, the federal government calls uoon the industries of the country to co-operate with state and federal agc.,ncies in maintaining the staidards herein set forth as a vital part of the reconstruction program of the nation. These standards have been adopted by the War Labor Policies Board. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis III511 -2STAND:tRDS i:EGOENDED LOR THE EMPLOYMENT OF WOkEN. * I. HOURS OF LABOR 1. DAILY HOURS NO WOMAN SHALL BE EMPLOYED OR PERMITTED TO FORK :ORE THAN EIGHT HOURS IN ANY ONE DAY OR FORTY-IGHT HOURS IN ANY ONE WEEK THE TIME WHEN THE WORK OF 770ITIEN EMPLOYEES SHALL BEGIN .iND END i,11D THE TIME ALLOWED FOR MEALS SHALL BE POSTED IN A CONSPICUOUS PLACE IN EACH ORK hOOiv AhD A RECORD SHALL BE KEPT OF THE OVERT Or EACH WOMAN WORKER. 2. HALF HOLIDAY ON SAWRDAY. Obctrvance of thr. half -holiday rhould be the curtorl. 3, ONE DAY OF REST IN SEVEN. EVERY 17014AN WORKER IN EVERY SEVEN DAYS. 4. TIME FOR MEALS. AT LEAST THREE-QUARTERS OF AN HOUR SHALL BE ALLOWED FOR A MEAL. 5. REST PERIODS. A rcstpfriod of ten minutes should bo allowed in the middle of each working period without thereby increasing the length of the working day. 6. NIGHT WORK. SIX A. N. NO WOMAN SHALL BE EMPLOYED BETr'EEN THE HOURS OF TEN P. E, AND II. 1. SHALL HAVE ONE DAY OF REST WAGES EQUALITY WITH MIEN'S WAGES. WOMEN DOING THE Ma', WORK AS MEN SHALL RECEIVE THE SAME WAGES WITH SUCH PROPORTIONATE INCREASES AS THE MEN ARE RECEIVING IN THE SANE INDUSTRY. Slight changer made in the process or in the arrangement of work should not bu rgarded as justifying a lower wage for a ,7oman than for a man unless statistics of production show that the output for the job in question is less -hL11 women are employed than when men are employ_d. If a difference in output is demonstrated th.: difference in the wage rate should be basA upon the difference in production for the job as a whole and not deteriained arbitarily. 2. THE BASIS OF DETEREIr AT I_ ON OF WAGES WAGES SHOULD BF ESTABLISHED ON THE BASIS OF OCCUPATION ANT) NOT ON THE BASIS OF SEX THE :INIht1 M WAGE RATE SHOULD COVER THE COST OF LIVING FOa DEPENDENTS AND NOT ERELY OR THE INDIVIDUAL. III. WOR-isdN CONDITIONS. 1. COMFORT AND SANITATION. State labor laws and industrial codas should be consulted with reference to provisions for corlort and sanitation. 7.ashing facilities, ,-ith hot and cold water, soap and individual to,-els, should be provided in sufficient number and in accessible conveprid locations to make -ashing before ;aeals and at the close of thD -ork day kIn the following outline the word "shall" and the larger type indicat, those provisions which are of th- most vital importanc,.. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis -3Toilets should be separate for r-,11 snd women, clean and accessible. Their nu:lbers should have a standerd ratio to the number of 7!orkers employed. Workroom floors should be kept clean. Dressing rooms should be provided adjacent to washingtacilities, making possible change of clothing outside the workrooms. Rest rooms should be provided. Lighting should be arranged that direct rays do not shine into the workers' eyes. Ventilation should be adequate and heat sufficient. Drinking water should be cool and accesible with individual drinking cups or bubble fountain provided. Provision should be made for the v,orkers to secure a hot and nourishing meal eaten outside the rorkroom, and if no lunch roos are accessible near the plant, a lunch room should b maintained in the establishment. 2. POSTURE tT VORK, Continuous standing and continuous sitting are both injuriow,. A seat should be provided for every woman employed and its use encouraged. It is possibl.,) and desirable to adjust the height of the chairs in relation to the height of machines or —ork tables, FO that the worker may with equal convenience and efficiency stand or sit at her i-ork. The seats should have backs. If the chair is high, a foot rest should be provided. 3. SAFETY. Risks from machinery, danger from fire and exposure to dust, fumes or other occupational hazards should be scrupulously guarded against by observance of standards in State and Federal codes. First aid equipment should be provided. Fire drills and other forms of education of the workers in the observance of safety regulations should be instituted. 4. SELECTION 07 OCCUPATIONS FOR TOFEN. In determining what occupations are suitable and safe for women, attention should be centered especially on the follcc::ing conditions which s'ould render the employment of women undesirable if changes are not made:A. Constant standing or other posturer causing physical strain. B. Repeated lifting of weights of 25 pounds or over, or other abnormally fatiguing motions. C. Operation of mechanical device:, requiring undue strength. D. Exposure to excessive heat, - that is that is under 50 degrees. over 80 degrees, or excessive cold, E. Exposure to dust, fumes, or other occupational poisons sithout adequate safeguards against disease. 5. PROHIBITED OCCUPATIONS. TOUEN 1.:UST NOT BE BYPDOYED IN OCCUPATIONS INvoLvine TO MEN, THE USE OF POISONS 17HICH ARE PROVED TO BE MORE INJURIOUS TO WOMEN THAN the on rulinrF Subsequent LEAD INDUSTRIES. THE FUCH AS CERTAIN PROCESSEZ IN issued. dangerous trades 7-ill be hFlth 6, UNIFOPLS. Uniforms s'ith caps and comfortable shoes are desirable for processes the which and safety in occupations for which machines are used or in are dusty. IV. HOME mORK SLEEPING 1. NO —ORK SHALL BE GIVEN OUT TO BE DONE IN R00::5 usEp FOR LIVINGS OR IN ANY ROOmS PURPOSES OR I" ROOZ DIRECTLY CONNECTED wITH LIVII4G OR SLEEPING D'ELLING OR TENEi:ENT. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis -4v. '.„,PL iANAGE:INT. hIA-IN2,S'.12PAR1.CIOS NtDr;TION OF ,; - CIDIIIONS. In ertablishing satisfactory relations be-Veen a company •Ind it e]nployees, a personnel department ir important charged '7ith responsibility for selection, assignent, transfer or yithdrewal of 1-orkers and the cstablishnt of proper v-orking conditions. 2. SUPERVISION OF —NEN 'ORERS. -11,3re vvomen are eraployed, a competent vo:2,an hold be anpointeCt as employment executive rith resonnibility for conditions affecting vonen. r-omen should also be appointeC in superviory positions in the departmnt:7 e:Aploying ,;!onien. 3. SELECT10 07 . The relection of 1-orkers best adapted to the required occuputions through physical eluipment and through experience and other qualifications is as important at" the determination of the conditions of the v:ork to be dove. VI, COoPEATTO7 OF 1-0T&FS IN ENFORCE.2NT STZDARD7) 1. THE R2SPONSIPI'LITi SHOULT) OiTEST UPON THE MANGELENT ALONE TO DETU1,4INE TISELY AND EFFECTIVELY THE CONDITIONf:; 'THICH SHOULD BE ESTAPLISHED. THE GE1JINE COOPERATION ESSENTIAL TO PRODUCTI(Z C::N PE SECURED ONLY IF DEFINITE CH;INNLLS OF COVIUNICATION TIET7TEN E:jPLOYEJ.E ZD GROUPS OF THEIR V'ORKERS ,RE ESTABLISH. THE NEED 07 CREATING UETHODS OF JnIAT NEGOTIATION BETWEEN ELPLOYERS AND GROUPS OF EiCILOYEES IS ESPECIALLY GREAT IN THE LIGHT OF TH2 CRITICAL POINTE 07 Ca:TROVRSY THICH :.".AY ARISE D4 A LIKE TH2 P:117SNT. EXISTING CHAN',IELS SHOULD ET, PRESERVED ANL NI7 ONT,S OPENED IF REQUIRED, TO PROVIDE EASIER ACCESS FOR DISCUSSION RZTrrEET alPLOYER AND .;]I..PLOY7ES . VII. COOPITTON '1 ri OFFICIAL AGENCIES. The United Stater Goverm,ent and State and local co=unities have es- tablished agencies to deal —ith conditions of labor, including standards of —orking conditions, —ages, hour', enploym,Int and trainin. These should be called upon for assirtance especially in the difficult probleLis of adjustLent in the 'T)A-iod of reconstruction follo7ing ths: var. Inquiries regarding the.e:a7loyment of v'omen may be addressed to the Woman in Industry Service, Depart:lent of Labor, Washington, D. C. and these —ill b.:, dealt directly or ref erred to th offic5;a1 fed:Iral or "state agency best equip- ped to give the assistance ireedcd in each instance. .111.M1•10., 297 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis • https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis ,•• 11 1611121=1"40 111.11". pJ . -aka 141519,1fivillw Page 1 • • • • • • • • • • 'acope • • • 3ources of Infornation •• Location and numbers employed 1 2 Growth of the home week system. 4 21111AIWTING 44121 Ibe character of the waft • • • 7 The givimpbout stations • • • 10 hadogation • • • • • • • • • 18 Inspeotism •--• • • • • • • z-_a Ible time lost • • • • • • • • • 22 e. ▪ c https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis *11* NMI HOMES Composition of the rmoup • • .26 Character of the poorer dwellings 27 ?he work room • • • • • • • .31 Comments about work •.• • • • 32 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis zumusacimagLALisecarimulio•••••••• 53 ese promos of monafaotux**••••••••••••• 515 abarak•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• 55 awes•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Xi ProwlatGoo for health and ooraforta•••••• 14 illoilLoo1 oaro•••••••••••••••••••••••••••• irelforo work...............,............ V 111101111111212111.••041141••awe.•••••••••••••s goo••••••.0 SS https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis ;$ 0:0, ;* fp •p t). S " 'u 4 s t 311=1:212EL07 ILASIMIUMatas P1111111111dilltnalial LigalUI 1111116 AMMI411 ( ,inthroG, - *, 6.. ANCIAILAMogeads ) IL 2/ 131PODUTION. lung. This report is principally concerned with the emaufeature of srmi shirts out and given out nt the '•,uartenameterie Depot in Jeffersonville, Indiana, and mode up by women in their homes. It .ncludes also information relative to the clothing factory in the Depot. otIrgos qf tntumalions ?he data were Beaus* / (1) :rpm conferences withiOolonels Sood and Hart,1 t the ;opot on January 8th and tebruary 4th; (2) from inspections of the Depot on the same dates in company with(Oaptain 3iggard, (3) from visits to the sub-stations in Louisville and 2rankfort; )4) from individuals in Louiwrille, including cloth/Di/manufacturers, a public health nurse, tilie-sesretemy-44-tiso-eyseekelree-00tetrilirtes,and the rosi- dent of the Xentucity 4onsumers° League; and (b) from visits to the homes of 193 women engaged in stitoqine https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 2. the shirts, located ar follows: 164 In Louisville, Ky. 10 In irankfort, Ky. 19 In Pewee Vviley, 4. The addresses for these visits were for the most part taken at random from the Government lists. In adiition, some workers were visited at the suGestion of social agencies in Louisville or of other women shirt-workers. Location and numbers emoloyf:d. The JefferDepot sonvillgjwas established in the seventieb. Since the oeginnin of the present war a. large amount of land and many buildings have been added. The production of army shirts by women working at home has very rapidly increased until in January, 1918,44-vasitiated. b/officials at the Depot/that shirts were being given out to a list ofwproximately 21,000 women. Crdinarily a'Jout 15,000 or these women receive mrk from the sub-station located in Louisville. The number of active operatives varies from week to week. Daring the week of ?ebruary 4th, at which time a cloth shortage prevailed, the number of active operatives https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis c:• vas stated to be 20,700, distributed as follows: Louisville, New Albany, .ieffersonvilie, imilkfort, Vadison, Jeottsburg, 10,000 3,500 1,500 1,200 The practice obtained of allowing to each woman only one bundle (10 shirts) a meek in order to distribute the work as wide1Y as possi141 and give employment to a large number. This method, which increases the time necessary for transportation and the chances of delay ,obviously impedes production. AIIYM the demand came for increased production and storage, at the beginning of the war, the available labor in Jeffersonville, xhich htd a population of 10,412 at the time of the: 13th 'census, became wholly intdequate. Men and women were drawn from surrounding towns, including Louisville, in numbers sufficient to nut a strain upon train and trolley facilities which made regular service almost impossible. ?artly in order to relieve the congestion, the sub-sttition *as opened in the Armory in Louisville, and tills, according to Arajor c_Ity, "at one stroke took 9000 women off the crowded ears." https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 4. v -.4 Growth of the...Home 7ork System. .,oth Col- # onel Wood and Colonel Hart exoressed satisfuction with the homework system of manufacture because it offers an almost inexhaustible source of labor supnly for the Depot and at the sane time furnishes employs', nt for rany women whose family income is Insufficient. 3oth(lolonel .7ood and Major Clay, who was in charge at the Louisville sub-station,) II expressed the belief that the work should be es given out as to relieve the poor. /This Ohilamthropic opportunty appehred so inportant to them that the existence of poverty, rather than the cleanliness of the homes or the ability of the workers, aetermined the distribution. Home work has herefore been resorted to anlisteadily/\extended, in spite of the serious wastes inherent in production carried on in that wity,(n spite of unemployment existiwg in the real clothing centers of the country)and contrarg to the recommendations of the',uartermaster General specifically stated as follows in Standards of 7:mployment in War Vork,pummry of :lecommdndations to nmployers, dated J 4 ct • Fl https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 5. October 15, 1917: "No in rooms directly dwelling work shall be given out to be done used for living purnoses or in rooms conneoted with living rooms in any or tenement." :he first objection to home-work of this natura Ir that of its wastefulness at a time in the country's affairs when the most efficient production is imperative. This has to Jo specifically with the lo:s of timo in transporting rsterial, particularly when an ef. 'ort is madf, to give onlj small amounts of work to each woman; :46h the inevitable iielays and losses on account of the separation of the workers from the inspectors and supervisors of the morktsuoh as those which occur when semen have to travel back and forth from the factory several times in order to rectify minor errors in the make-up of a Yawl° of places; bn4 wipaa te oiyortunity for poor work- manship and injury to the materials. In the second place, the wIploLem:A of unskilled clothing workere drawn from an extended rural district iu expensive, when, in the olothing centers of tho cuuntry, experienced workers who could doubtlexls perform the work https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 6. far more quickly and efficiently Are idle.' The reeenmemdations of the zuartermaster General were undoubtedly' made, not only with these facts in mind, but also in view of the danger of spreading diseases whioh is inherent in dwelling or tenement-house manufacture, unless such manufacture is under MOTO complete supervision than has yet been devised. So great an extension of the home work system undoubtedly is a disorganising factor in the clothing trude of the country. Uhe output of the Louisville Sub-station alone was stated to be 17,000 to 20,000 shirts a day. in the long run the clothing The Chief Miles clothing centers of the country, • according to the 1914 Census of Manuraotures, (U. S. Bureau of the i;eneas, Abstract of '.;ensus of Manufactures, 1914, p. 269,) are New York, 'Jilioado, Baltimore, PhilIn New York, which in 1914 adilphia and Rochester. produced more than one-third of the value of the cowstry's product, the Jarment trades were reported by the federal !!Imployment Service to be laying off workers during the winter of 1917-18. (Official Anlietin Larly in January, 1918, an January 11, 1918, p. 4). official of the Pennsylvania Amite federation of Labor stated that it has been reoorted to him that about 3,000 garment workers in ?hiladelphia were idle on account of lack of work. (Corrosptndence vith IL L 3emple, Pennsylvania Department of Labor and Industry.) https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 7. trade in civilian shirts probably suffers a loss mem. equivalent to such important increases in the ufaeture of army shirts. Usansihile the cor- regular responding Avrt, instead of going to the shirt tactories, is performed in the homes. d that Clothing manufactarers in Louisville ctate they writ facing the neoessity of closind the factories .n account of dearth of orders. They to add had offered to take government orders and the necessary equipment for that type of manufacture, but had received no notice that their ceived. application had Zr kkci,) 'rim D13TRLU?1G 3t1 The Jharagter of the Work. The prin. cipai product of home work manufacture is the army shirt, but overalls and bed sacks are also given out. Materials for all those are reeeived at the Jefforsonville Depot. into bundles. Here they are out and tied 2ractically all the cutting is done by electric machines through many layers of folded cloth. The operatives are men who earn from ;:90.00 to . 540.00 a month on piece work. c-(„ https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis eaoh shirt is m4xde from 27 pieces and the shirts are in five different sizes. roreovor, . the pieces of khaki cloth are not uniform in shade should lAstakes in assembling the 270 pieces which be in each woman's bundle not infrequently occur, buck the according to the workers, who have to bring trip. Many material and lose the time of the extra contained of the women complained that their bundles much time pieces which did not match and they lost e they In returning the material to the station befor could get the right shade to complete their garments. Badly out pieces, due to the occasienal twisting of the cloth in the cutting, are ancther muse neoes sitating a return to the factory before the work can be finished. Demonstrators were at hand at the giving-. out stations to teach the method of making up the garments. A new worker is allowed to take home a sample shirt from which to learn. Wemamtebo are familiar with sewing can learn the promos from the demonstrator or from the sample. The unskilled women https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis so. IOW% Mil their sore elplarialleat noighbors, 07 from their am oistakens ask mosbor of women at the Depot 'he moors busy ripply( out stitshing ink tidal istotalloolsWilmommois, is an iodisation of the properties et Ewers. /he ordiaszydsmootio sewing snwidimml are lasts It ins stated that *looter attotirmat, sooting $15•00. sad* it possible to oaks tilos as may shirts in the moo losith of time, but IAworkers pooessoot Viton• Nay two or tho 193 nowiters visited had lialikinesI 1iEro• iork on tho bed seeks and denim jughets F!Iibeavier• It Is not popular with the mum usyksra Ube Object to the delay sad empsuses ems* by brolkaa ilamiLlas on this boosysuaterial• She Depot gives out the Jaskol* and bed masks on4 Amu there are no shirts far distribution. The prisms paid AMP 111111160 factored aro as fellows: .4.46 per bundle of 10 10, shirts* er 441, cents per *1,4 * This Is a slightly lower prise then is paid for boa weft at the Schuylkill Drift in Philadelphia ($4.5o per bundlo.) • https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 10. 3.46 per bundle of 10 Denim jumpers or 34i cents per jump4er; trousers or 34fr cents Denim • 10 per pair; • 10 Yattress covers or 15 cents *1.50 " per oover; or 12 cents apiece. sacks 3ed 10 41.20 " The approximate number of garments manufactured per week: was stated on Eebruary 4th, 1918, to be: Louisville 3ranoh, New Alipany Branch, Jeffersonville Depot, imnkfort Branch, 3cottsburg Branch, Madison 6ub-station, 6.5,000 25,000 20,000 12,000 10,000 10,000 On timovant of cloth shortage the stat_ons were at this time giving out a smaller amount of work than formerly. ?h, IliviniVroutjtationc. The bundles read' for stitching pre sent by train L.nd truck to the vatious sub-station? for distribution to the "aundle lomere us the ivmen who do the sewing are called. Daoh of these must present a 1Htter from a responsible porson before a "pass" is issues permitting them to take out work. ?or the two months preoeuing iebruary 4th, 1918, no new passes had been Issued. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 11. Sefore the present war all of the women sewers oame to Jeffersonville for the bundlos; but with the increase of 7fork the sub-3tation3 were established to surOement the main e,ot. Ihese nre loautod at Louisville, New 4,1bany, irr,nkfort, Soottsburt;, and :4id1son. Jefferson- villa and the sub-stlitions draw workers from great distanaes vs is indleated by the following lists of towns In which the workers who are registered at New Albany, Louisville and irunkfort live. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 12. ?Ow In Obi* feseltoro live glie refolvo week from the Sow &lbw MooSettee* Altos, US* lattleleem4 Ty. Medford, Ind. Sommoteville, Ind. birdeepe. tad* Loa* Sefton. Zed. BredfOri, tido Breadembeige 21%* Oesple1346m4 led6 Oeseeed, Imi• Oentral, In& Chavlooteme Ind* earidOno !Ado Ovendalls lod6 Devid4014 Ind* leftem4 Ind. Swan bide bmwoode Lade DoolittIoAillie Inds Err Itint 41 Sokerty, Inde 211Albeth, indo English. led* Roomed Landing, lielboo, 2nd.. Predorlekelems, Ind. hed• Goolgetem, Ind* Grantsburg. Int* Gmeemville* IsidoNardlusburg• SO ono dem river. 40 Oleo tree Lade*1144 ea femme 11* Re,* ill males. 40 I* Le, Soelhere SS 74.• ZOO manes, 0* /* & 1•11 Igo anis, 0. I* & Le, lb Idles by abase, 40 allos down river,(Appsem6) I. 6 L•# SS allots, ailos Weed, GO Idles tom plow, idles 1#140441 1? atlas, Intoreirben llas, elloo, 3ealibers R •14, 14 alloo, Son0hore R*, 4, miles deem eiverip(Aggimmi 20 Aftebess 26 244, 41)miles* 20 64 0* 26 26 OS Jeffersonvillo, 21 adios WOW,(AMPINA 49 alblas, Seediern 26 2* leheltir, Lmisad6 40 idiesip Somilion 1108,4y, 4 atlas ImIsmio 40 idles. Whom Re Bail IS idlest Wag by slags, SO miles, *ethers 114 R., SO silos dean river, (Apprecui al miles* c. I* & Le, 27 ail's. inland by stage, lo miles Mem& tri stares 9 allele, SeeNhems Re a. a atlas Se 21,01sh, b anise WM, 22 miles, Os I* 10o 2? albee, 3evilbant, Milltown. 10 miles teliemde '0 V `g 410T111 erT 'I `g $4129 *I 4% .inreetz0 ooweint *an* tit PtrutuT tiortra oz • `II samJ `11 sietTit it 4•7 'I *0 411.11111 Se Iralitul **MB & fteuy o4 JOATJ mum HMI Off • '0 . 111 `101,1111 111 *Tar 621iTseaso sIzeti nal 4 Tursa *pm •sititeutve ivpur Lepton -Par *4)05'140 .puT 4suirons0 'WI 4etelz0 'PO *uosam, gun , 6 1111111/ "Tr% •E 6/1 italnitaiK `satin •uenegar snow `ion* a 4iveirtuT iwtri t 414.1.10x 04 .1 .0 4setri vs *PuituT (01*010)'saw mop 11 saw 3t •Apts 0 us *0 NM* It set!X 011 VOTTIE 61 411 gut 421ieivogg sows *MI e CzataTtliS Aft `wPidteloutru mg 'Ts/ •44011140TPPTIT aft *WY eamteleurv 'PC. 41410X •* tg 4"11 mu*cl 4ietTe to •si *o ametru et •-Ad¶ gaeqsaor •fietril LI ua.gtrotes Giotto sit 6 afaAT.t ustop souls cip 4ern AMOSinjer JO 1110 *0 V eti no set* it *ate, 'a 02 sulrovaj act *1 figiaj la *PAM `traluoit et 61 '1 60 `getT* 011 'It tr2ezr006 °setts Sit *Maul **Vim 4toil TV:r U40411100 *Ott (*x.o.vidy) *.vratiz map eons oa 4/caw leaf Ilene listertri semi 4 •treimiall$111 .2=494400S .sotill 01 9x/ •orrIAssamlat 4IPIRIDITX *PIT IlumliSETTX •1411 *UTI;TIT *Put ssasibiavain slittTASAMI .puI 4 OTE wral 240411Uninen •PUT 6agealtr sintelair •Virt* °Pur sluTeA 4Intooi 'PUT **WI 9II, T1 . 2 UO 47.1er Jo $ee itetra 22 ezatu aim seilla IA 61Powton oritio et *IcsattaY) ePuvrel sin-cut z '4.41,z es.09 atotri ummIlawl 41PITTIE ell "tf *sin asokaiiir4EI `Writ $ •pul: su0$gisple7 fin/ str4.zemesmoirr lirtrfamari inuealivi . .puT •SatUdigainall 'Par *Ulla wino •et https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 14. Pekin. Ix& lividusetem, Ind. immeer. but. Middle, Ind. Selem4 Lod. Sattille, Ind. Solloribmet, Islam Smodler• todo South lOetesso Isam Setolor lat• lusooll, Tempi., imd. 20.01P. LIG Warne, tud4 iost teak, Did. lOot ioiat, alto Cloud, Ise. Wickliffe, Ude 1116 *Use, G. I. & 1.4.41 106sties,41000uma B. 1:* # 20 silos, 55805ora Re Rog •11111040 to leglisdiAss. 16 B4, tuimmi, 5 alloe, 28 anew, O. I. 6 Log 51 milos,G. I. a Riles Interurban lime, 40 silos C. I. & Leo 34 silos C. I. & L. Is mirth**, bones Woad, 89 silo*, 20021414 SIM AO Ea. 16 milers islood, Welles Wouthers MO Rift Se silos Somilhorm 26p Rip• 45 wiles does oiler, (Appria.) 2 miles Woad, MB 'miles Soullhorm II. . to magemis, 5 silo* 45 alum authors to losemal, 6 ell** lulesol, to atles fres Louisville, APP11160 2•• 211 silos to Clwyd's. Meath 5 Mies inland. 49 silos sou. B. Ern to labefts silos Masud, Wolf Ovesk, Ky. /Sumo in shish esaturo live dm veseive leak from the Louisville 31bwmetetiou. Amuse Aselesege immestame BediOrd Moameat hg CliftY SUM' Slut itee;: lessidield Mimmieville Meadville Seotoo Mvemdelbaar Oremmilbort MOW Meifter Issibil . 000 400 0.06114beft Oimmoville Matrollton 000slis Oesolian ClarA4ston Clexasat Olsoarpert ColisObert Crose0001 oreedur Outer lestaville Oft Times vestreel arms lliziholbtosu adaismoo Mema Creek flaahville fieholville Yelper* J421111/4aNi interP0011 laedsses SUTO4 Sala imottridag seeada TTPleamit AIN14 Pteumetvies Ple411 , 111 pawn Sirrimiss "A WASS ibitalti *maim ettsm•amiesu • 4,1414S B•GU* antTALts'440 stITAA0 ITCImielectoT *Oft toxin. Mean WPM tIN 1.606111 ITU awn amosellaseg u110111,0111 wtviramit *TM •ITTNIC siewm2 add•ao ammtinteTS*TIRO Tiollrett 11110$6101 imrs AVM &SWIM &NM 4t4It -I 41.1114.01111 4144111411 am sainiasa 'tolls III me& tag irts94RS TUX testate COM rga *sow siau etiposei ar1$142 &MA •maartikez allegtos 010181M4S VW WOK vain VOISSIIC eTT Tammoallie ttiapte 'oil TAsinellitelte ealmOvir 41S nor on aim ns ett TAATIMS A* *Itlawn 40100/ TOSPaggin ~Pa aRtrii altpu samearga Arm mom sem mum im$410111114 04 1,1100 ttei0 oamissimio surne MOO/ IOW SIM warns *NI sisitrivel any truism rtnsOte/ gelsr 111111101 Tuetearin Skamiesseaurt Miaow in etigiesion agog Alawill oft eliviapr 111110$1111111110U0 INNIORTAA &mint mon alia eT411.0 Ml IntImo*to' wan NNW ettialritrOH POWIMINg NNW elpeidgra tvisiNt uessfrons es' um our emportwor wanton Amos mai soft mart paing smut impee grown. rairete suarevroo PTetize0 1111Wel6 $I•1i •gt https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 14. The 'porkers in some of t-ro- distant towns do not appear to make much out of the sewing. In two in3ta,nees they stated that .he money rooeived from the Tork was nearly all spent on the railroad fare to the sub-statioa, but It made po3sIble a trip to the city which could not have been taken otherwise. It is evident that in such oases the shirts are turned in only at such time as is convenient for This often means that they are making the trip. greatly uelaged in reaching the sub-station. The Louisville sub-station is located in the Armory, and occupies most of the enormous floor space of the 4tillding. The room is divided into aisles, on the general 21an of the inspection room '.;aoh woman waits with her in gllis Island. bundles until a number is thrown out to show that one of the 44 inspectors is ready to saamine her work, anA then moves down one of the aisles to the long tables, on the other side of which the inspectors stand. work graded on The bundles are openeu and the card which &lac) shows the time https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 17. the work was taken est anti returned. If the work is in need of oorrection, and unless some radioal Change has to be gads, the seler may repair it on machines provided in thc building to save the ,vorle:er from carryThe "Trouble Dose explains in ing it home again. detail what is wrong, gives advice, and supplies extra pieces of ;pods when necessary. or are not all busy. repairing. ',Jaen the insoctors of thew may also assist in the The worker c&nnot get )12* pay until her bundle is accepted, nor oan she turn in part of her bundle; so that it she does her repairing at home all ten shirts have to t>e carried back although only one nay have failed to pass the inspectors. After her work has beau graded, the vorker than takes her card to the pay window and on to the place where new bundles are given out. If the worker declines to mice the desired changes, she turns in her bundles loses her pass, and rSoviVOS no pay for the bundle. Both men and women inspect returned work. women are paid 504.00 a month. The The men, who do exactly https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 18. the same work, receive v 100.t)0 a month. Agents for sewing machines, needles and motors are allowed to have stands in the e‘rmorys do not pay for this concession. They The Government sells at cost bags suitable for carrying the bundles. ”orkers are encouraged to use them in order to protect the cloth. The Sub—station at Arrankfort, k,entuckw,is situated in the old capitol building. :nen it was visited (Jtnuary 24, 1918) it had been open four months, Very few women were in the station, though quantities of packages of both shirts and bed sacks were ready to tr out. Signs on the well urged women to show their patriotism by sewing army shirts. At WOMan was seen taking &mai an unwrapped bundle of shirts contrary to the injunction not to take the bundles out before wrappinR. them. e'umvgation, The fumigating apparatus at Jeffersonville and at Louisville was inspected. after examination the ins-eotor93pread or tables behind them. the shirts on racks ?ries. racks are wheeled into fimigating room at the end of the day and subjected https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 19. to the fumes of formaldehyde during the night. '.:very garment is supposed to go through this process, but it is to be noted that the capacity of the fumigator at Louisville is 14,000 shirts, while 17,000 to 20,000 shirts are received each day. It is manifestly im- possible for all shirts to be fumigated when the substation is receiving the normal number. It -was, , rT1 sAm4414-4,7* the officer in charge of the process that „i4 A it is effective in destroying vegetable germs only. The plant is not equipped with any means of applying steam under pressure to destroy the forms of animal life which may inhabit the garments. .hen the ap- pearance of the shirts is suspicious, they are left for several days in the fumigating room. 144'vvoft' 464,.... IA.4peCtiQUA4 (opt. H. H. (writing)from the Jeffersonville office January 16th stated: "The total number of sewing operatives employe& at the several stations being operated under the direction of this office is approximately 21,000 and the number of sanitary insoectors employed is 15." Two of the 15 inspectors are women and receive 1 50.00 a month. The men receive v60.00. 3ach inspector https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 20. Is expected to maks abent o30 visits u der and keep 'XL -44peoier-iser-record044 to date. The department has established three marks for denoting the condition in which a house is found as follows: Class A - Entirely satisfactory and not to be reinspected for at least six months. Class B - lair and to be inspected at an early date. A reasonable opporClass C - Unsatisfactory. °haw conditions to given tunity is to take work necessary and the pass is not done. this if out is forfeited Thirty visits were made with the officer in charge of the Inspection Department of the Louisville district and with one of his staff. The in.. vestigator Ube accompanied the Chief of the Inspection Department agreed with him in the classification of the homes visited and reported that in his explanations to the home workers of what was expected of them he was clear, kind and decisive. The Chi f is accustomed to make visits to check up the work of his staff. fn the country and in the small towns the workers are given cards, which they are asked to return https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 21. atter they have had a physician's signature to the statement that the condition or the house is sanitary. Notioes in the sub-station In ?rankfort stated that an inspector was to visit the homes,but no inspection had been made of any of the 10 hems visited Janul,ry 24tn, 1918. In ,4eme Valley none uf the 19 homes visited January llth, 1918, had been inspeoted, but after the womem had been working five months cards were distributed for them to sign. :31/en in the city of Louisville itself, a woman who bad been working for four years said that her Mr bed mot bum in- speoted during that time. The Louisville 3ub-station reoeivns a daily report from the City Health i4partment giving the 'ovation of contagious diseasI•. '::Wmen who have sewing ut any of these addresses receive the following notioe: "WAR LI&I,ARTNEET. Offioe of the Depot Q,uartermaster, Jeffersonville, Ind. Address re )1y to D1P02 IJANT.ailt.ST-t1.9 and quote lilts No. Irom: Janitation 3ureau, 3ub-statIon . U. Depot, Louisville, 4. Subject: Contagion. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis ev 22. 1. THE CONTAGIOUS DISEASE (of at your home being reported to this office, it is directed that you retain the shirts in your possession until your home has been thoroughly fumigated. 2. Please have the attending physician certify on the enclosed card (which requires no postage) that your home has been fumigated, mailing promptly to this office before returning work, that inspection may be made. Res2ectfully, Captain ;z0 M. U. 3. BoN The Sub-station calls in the sewing after it rempives notice that the quarantine is lifted. The Department of Sanitary Inspection in Louisville has charge of "delinquents." This term is used to designate the women who have kept work more than a month. lifter a month has elapsed the women are notified by mail to return the work and if they do not comply, they are visited by a sanitary inspector. The ro:ime Lost* Yhe continuance of Imethod of manufacture which has become an industrial anachronism, because of the long delays inhvent in it, cella fart() 4,,-k /1.4d " 04 immoulrkentar-erttitelvm m especia1lAat a tine ellen the need for army uniforms is urgent. To the time consumed in https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 23. distributing thi goods to the sub-stations and the transportation. to the widely scattered homes of the workers must be added the unproductive time when the maw is smimind In househ, ld and other tasks. In some oases the aelning is a very secondary employment. The files in the sanitary inspeotor's offioe at Louisville contain the cards of a group of workers who muzt oe visited at night because they are employed in fadtories or are away from hom* as domestic helpers during the day. It is the rul. thLt a bundle of shirts must be returned after twouweek4, but thry ure frequently kept aut much loneor. One worker said thut sho asked at the sub-station if she should brink back unfinished a bundle she had had out for four -leeks, and was told to keep it until she could finish it. In addition to the delays and waste of time due to the scuttering of the workers und their saneness in returning materials, account must also be taken of the fact that the prooess of ham mumfricture itself i8 of necessity a very slow Ones ID https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 26. order to obtain the rate, the women visited were classified according to their output. The 173 women* who gave their output were divided into groups of almost exactly even thirds. Afty seven (32.0)6ere Wile to 0 . J 0,4 make just one bundle of 10 shirts each week; sixty (34. were not able to complete the bundle in a wetk's time and the last third (32. one bundle a week. were able to make more than The difference in the mummer of shirts mede is to be largely accounted for by the alms% of time the women were able to devote to sewing, but also to the fact that some very slow workers were isaladed. /is explained in another niece (p. 4 ) the need of a supplement to ism= rather than ability of the stitcher* determined the distribution of work. \-.... -*I the time the study was m4,4rmee'fir some time previous cloth Shortage had b,-,en the occasion of the rule that sae worker should be cflowed no more than tan shirts f'. f t that no one should be entirely without irm-eTtler week, a work. This rule in itself may have operated to * Seven of the 193 women visited were working on bed ticks and 13 were unable to make a definite sthten,nt as to the number of shirts they were able to make in a week. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis reduce the number returned to the stations. in any case it is evident at a time when th9 cloth shortage made it especially difficult to keep up the output, a very considerable amount of material was held up In the workers' homes. The workers visited often spoke of women whom they knew who were making large numbers of shirts. These were followed up whenever possible und only gotten women 'mere found who could make more than 20 shirts a week regularly. Three were visited who claimed that they could oocassionally make 30 shirts a week, two claimed they were able to make 40 in ft week, and ono woman at1-tali-1464 she had once made 10 shirts 4etween 3 A. M. and midnight, but that she woulo never try to do it again. On the other hand, inztances were found of work that had been out a long time; in one case, three months; in five cases, more than one 'month. 3ven the largest claims of the home workers as to the number of shirts they were able to MAO in one week (40), are below the ordinary output of the worker https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis U. under factory organisation. The foremun of the :Alf- fersonville fuotory when army shirts were being tied* AL tnere Wee p. 33 rita.ted.-thm4 be Wright one wasms i in the factory could make eight shirts u day or 48,\11. week• iCtioY 4 4.) THZ 8•:1110 1001141D 2140 Mona. gomoosition of the. GrOuom k difference in the making of army shirts in une homos in ,,Ar times and home work unger other auspices lies in the fact that the Government ampler's& now include a considerable number of Images in very comfortable circumstances who sew from patriotic motives. One of these was a member of the Kentucky State C;ommittee on ';omen in Industry of the (;ouncil of Lefenee. he stated that the peg was ee poor that only patriotic impulses led her to undertake the work, which she preferred to knitting. She stated that she knew many of "the best women in the city" were stitching shirts. Lowther voriter was a hotel keeper and a third was nuking payments on a home. At the other extreme are the very poor in whose favor it is the https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis al. policy of the Louisville '3ub-station to diseriminato ,giving out work. Same of these were receiving aid fres the AsseaLated Charities at the tine the visits were made. Character of thit ?oorer Dwellings, Ono family barn. IIMJ living in squalid surroundings in un old Squally undesirable dwelling* were occupied by the workers who lived in the "shanty boats" along the banks of the river. The shanties are pictures- que, but mLny of than are unsuited for tions human habita- They are entire/I' without sanitary convenienues and are situated on low /Found 'Irbich is covered with water at the flood season when some of than are actually afloat. The general disorder which is shown in the photographs also characterizes the interiors. In the picture on the next page, irtkir•it- ths figure of the investigator indicates the height of the roomSin8id4here was a MS ossipmrpeisu_ , ) monla on Yebruary 5th. he house contains four rooms in two of which thickens and a pig were kept at the time the klovernment sewing warn done. A second https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis picture shows the city dump in the rear. The third picture is that of the home of a woman who was an invalid and who had not been out for 18 years. Sho was able to use the sewing m:ohine, but could not walk. (2ictures are numbered 1, 11, awl III.) ;57 The oulored Workers in Pewee Valley live in cabins, many of which are dirty, in poor repair and without oonvenienoes. Rural occupations are com- bined with the Government stitching. At the time of the visit one worker who was about 18 years old had been engaged for the previous two weeks in hog killing. Her family consisted of herself, her hudband, who was a farm hand, and two unoared-for Children of two years and six months respectively. The elder was sickly and had never walked. A The -ark Room, In no Lootanoofit special room set apart for the stitohin4,.wsydiscovereth in nearly two-tairds of the oases the work vas done in either the kitchen or the bed rooms. In five instances the vorkere lived and worked in a single room. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis QOaqqa‘p about Vorg. In general the work vas regarded as an opdortunity to be mush appreciated, thoun% it wea not looked upon as easy. In order to make a success of it, the vows thosebt 4.1.0magima4try to be a steady worker and.Wpessess T od eyes and a good machine. Some women appeared E!: vertingunder a good deal of nervous strain. Ii One hired smother woman to make the fronts of the Ii shirts for her. In only one case staa- the worker-e. .00mema-elutimio had previous experiorxe in a stitohing factory. Others bad been in other factories, holy ever, and two workers had determine6 to return to the factories in order to OM= MOTO. One had already gone back to a oigar factory *here she intended to remain until the Government work was more plentiful. source of real dissatisfaction was the limit of ono bundle of ahirts a week. Some workers oomplained that others with "influence° were able to gOt MOM than they. One woman waa using four passes in order to got a larger number of .lhirta. The passes were given hor by "ladies" she worked for who did not https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis themselves want to sew any longer. She said there was no objeotion at the sub-station to this arrangement. nI1 V !ILOTHING ,412Q11 • 4.??InOnI]4S._ In December, 1917, the Government created at the Depot a factory for the manufacture of army clothes. Army shirts of the same kind as those made by the home workers were lading produced here at as time of the January inspection, but when It las WA* visited on 2ebruary 4th, the plant had been given over to the production of army uniforms. At that time about 200 women wereimiong employed, the majority of whom were white. Two hundred and fifty women were said to be on the waiting list for factory positions. It was anticipated that 1500 women will be employed next sumtiter. The frocess of Manufacture. The cloth for the uniforms as well as that for thi;, Emu shirta made by the home workers is out at the Depot lactory. received, Ins,ecteo, and The inspection is done by https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 34. women who sit under a framework over whch the cloth is passed In such a way that the cloth is betwoqn the inspector nnd the light. A crank turnnd by hand moves the cloth over the frame. Similarly a hand crEnk is Ino6 when the cloth is passed between rollers in fuctories with up-to-date aqui2- for sponging. ment, a powar driven moshAnism is used for both of those purposes. The cutting is all done by men with the uae of cutting maahines. Men also assemble the pieces for ti.v, home workers' bundles and count off the a2propriete numSer of buttons for each. in per- forming the latter occupation they were seated and the -mork rus as light and easy as anj that . ould be foulid in factory proclaction. The stitehing room wuc, equipped with vnIcial one-and two-needle power machines :or work on the ()oats and trousers of uniform. Thu foreman stated thr.1 operatives were for the mist part women who had had no previous experience in power machine (ititohing. one end of the room women https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis N. 'ere pressing on the liaff4ian machine. Ihis re- quires throwing the ,latire weight of the body on the release. In the report of the United States durum of Labor Statistics on the Amployment of :iomen in 2ower "..aundries in lalwaukes,* the opinions of medical authorities are cited showing that such occupao. tions endanger the health of young women, possibly producing a distortion of the *pine with a one-sided development of the body and possibly pelvic disorders. If it is not expedient to install presses operated pnemmmtically in order to prevent this strain and danger to the wonan workers, it should be possi ble to substitute the men engaged upon such light team as that of sorting buttons for the women at the pressr:s. lolorod women were employed in a separate room to repair the shirts made by home workore. They were also amloyed in the packing room. Hours. The schedule of hours at the time of the inspection provided for a nine-hour day from 7:30 4. 1114 to 4:00 P. M., with one-halt hour for lunch. * U. S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Repor t on the Employment of Women in Pomr Laundries in Milwaukee. Bulletin * 122, Lay7 1913. p.-21. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis SS• 00,....!4 jt-000-rtalledribatNito schedule wee peigularly mix* A tained. Am. A flat rate of v50.00 a month was paid to all women operatives In the stitching room regardless of occupation, skill or output. omen who inspect cloth were also raid V50.00 a month, though men were aaid v100. for the sane work. erovisions for Health and 3omfort. At the time of the inspection only five toilets were available for the 1310 of the 200 women employees. These were used by white and colored omen indiscriminately. A sixth toilet was uswi as a locker for the mops and buckets of the janitress. i.d- ditionul toilet accommodations begun at the time of the first inspection were no nearer ready for use at the second visit. The location of the toilets in use Ise nuoh that workers in the stitoh-I Ing room had to 'ass through several other rooms and out of doors in order to reach them. where was no provision of & rest or wash room of any kind and no arraneemont for hanging https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis up outside clothing. The hats and coats of the workvrs were in the work room on chairs and pile s of cloth. A lunch roam is provided in a separate builiing and hot food is serve, in w,feteria fash ion, but th3 room is not large enough to acco-Imodate comfortably the officers and other Depot work ers. Althou0 it is opem to employees, hone of the women workers in the clothinT factory use it. The greater number brine their lunch and eat it in the work rooms. Some of them patronize a small grocery just outside the gat which does a thriv- ing business at noon. Illtdical Care. are stationed at the Deoot. Two medical offioers A Red Cress first aid room furnishes the usual emergency serv ioe. i9lrar, ;9181c. Three welfare secrett.ries are maintained in Jeffersonville by the Government. They are tot especially trained for this Writ. jjo statement of their specific duties could be secured. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 38. 41101111111111111811 The enienittes Was aphalas that allivaral changes shanid be nimlis with ireigsalt te the immeahmative at *my shirts and ether aipplies se earriet ea at Jaes. amicsorilli. and aseurdingly mikes Osc ;:eeP aidattelet le SIILAWANCUMIUMINNIMIKIIALOLISCIIMMzukuseisjimadauwaligh& The efficient • smetaature of standardised 411Puolleis at clothing Irstaires serkers. seastast suparvistoa aid laipoottone the applioatis• of power arehinery• and essatiosa ineidental eeenneles et thee ant Wert. None et Shwa are prasible ender a bone Mark 11116140 ths d.- i.zrIIhe lar I at et the imams. Mir lase distasesso oleo, aimia at thor wawa ta retaintlaft immusts. mistakes hi the distwitattes et aatirialie omit eraity ship ea seemat et Wet 40, sepurflidat amid be elininatelt at awe* aslib? https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 39. theoo elathial enotood ar0441.1Vioners. in boo sompleposats their loonowe moo ammer000 mad are already adegestole trained sad onportemoed tor this type et wok. andhe potential 1.bl. Way for steady tootory via* is pester. existiNt or artsing trots the abol4tion of bine nowt jigalLtALL itield byjilliajleattaLefisejlisi a.ploont policy ctis' tile Dego% UM smaril. ins mesic or, the louts et the illamaidal seesosity of me applies**, aldose" doebtleoe doe te adab?... aide philauthropio rAotiveo. tends to divert Os femotaos at eincisable emu stone Area the leeal mit to Se tOdenai goveriangs It las esatinvally been the loiter la lido oniatry te iefIVO to the lesel authorities, in wt. Mg e the Slate s.thswitiss 1*part, the eaulatetratine eheritatile t. a.asavaption ef We teen by the Moral goverment* without lip•oial eatherispprolAristiont or nadily, Mese osetne.. tat ee responsibility initiator*, omenesities it is adapted. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 40. 40. alarlimanD ialiVer MAU ail 10, ville leeks the trained amber, proper torsno. pertatien, eat adequate bowleg taellitiee ter the tepee* develepassin et a eledhiel 'eater* osly lees remelts fres She Iies et untrolase mad rnekl2led workers at a time when ampsrleasei vim are evoilahle in other clothing distrlots. She taster, beilds ing itself could be cased ler ehMMOSse lbe may applies piled La the slim imilasteg eat additional storage spew is irgentlyaseded• b. 9 C)rovislounl Reeeneeadstlam4 inease It Is found Inexpedient te dissenting* the Jetteris OOMNIllo feetany inaediateire tin telleukkg wessomemistlems ars ississ eip Immo* amitostsvo shosibi issmessimmilii zapplftimmel resulhoftegeN It Is smut that Ws ireald the Ansludo, substitution ot sashiass7 ter the Mot *en in the preliminary preessese et ememiniaR and preparing tho clot4/114, sabotitu- 41. tion of mln for gro.nnn in the operation of the Hoff-aan maohincL. b. 2he basis of lAy Should be revised In amerlanoe vita Cvi value of the 1740111r L: tablishment. /hr) present flat 0001 a Mali pay ter all woritc. er..?loyoos shoullagtips IOW to a areten In *lob ocizrarati crutvut raeognisadt, while at the Gam, tI71:1 the hartibipe et a strict pS000 lark oystan are avoided.. es Lau...Late previeloacieasuttlalent amber et toilets eenvingaanr loeetedf should aatwtrnwr.roans mboald be provided., MM. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis • %A.a. . 1.404,111.1.1610P,Velt0.1.1.1,e"......}., Norsono,i4 Jannary 13, 1919. Miss Ohara's", Woman's Onenittee, Ohio Sraneh, Omega of Iatienal Defense, State Reas44 Columbus, .to. 14 dear Nies Shertin:- I have delayed replying to your letter until plans for almits in Indianspolis should be definite. I must be in pr Indianapolis by aeon on %sedgy, January twenty-eighth. I regret to sow that it wield not be possible for as to leave here early enough to reash Columbus ty January 23. I shall be going frau Vie York on the Uth, and could take a train Which I believe reaches Columbus at 1:20 P. 1. so that I would be available Meader afternoon and evening, provided I Gould count on reaching Indianapolis not later than one o'olodk is thesdAy. ill yen let no know y wire,pareterabia whethrtr the tIonor evening date will be IIMPISiosit for you? day afternoon If newaseary, I could arrange,' think,to be in Cleveland thursdAy, Joa kit), although I menet b qu te sure of it at I shall, therefore, noting," Mrs. Sanford until XV this Ihtment. plans are more definite. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Looking forward to seeing you is the 27th, believe me, Azle erely yours, Mary Van wawa in nee*, Direetor Industry Service WOMAN'S COMMITTEE - OHIO BRANCH COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE BELL 3090, 3091, 31192 CHAIRMAN STATE HOUSE, COLUMBUS CITIZEN 7883, 7031 STATE HOUSE. COLUMBUS - MISS BELLE SHERWIN VICE CHAIRMEN MRS. GEORGE ZIMMERMAN _ _ MRS. S. B.SNEATH - Pleardosta• - Tom lq January 7, 1919. MRS.LAWRENCE MAXWELL - CurcorrNexi MRS. MALCOLM L. MoBR IDE - CLIIVIMAND DAirrox MRS. ELIZABETH WOLF SECRETARY - MRS.W.0. THOMPSON COLUMBUS TREASURER MRS. WILLIAM NEIL KING - CoLumous STATE HOUSE. COLUMBUS EXECUTIVE SECRETARY MISS LUCIA B.JOHNSON FIELD SECRETARY - - STATE HOUSE. COLUMBUS MRS. HENRY R. SPENCER https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Liss Mary Van Eleeck, Director, Woman in Industry Service, U. S. Department of Labor, Washington, D.C. My dear Miss Van Kleeck: I am very glad to learn that you can be in this part of the :Is Miss Johnson has written world before the end of January. you, it would fit in very suitably with plans we are making if you could be in Columbus the afternoon and evening of Thursday, 23rd. On that afternoon we are holding a State Executive meeting of the Woman's Committee, and I should count it a privilege to have the committee meet you, with a possibility of discussion, as well as to offer them the opportunity of hearing you speak to a larger group in the evening. If it is not possible for you to be in Columbus so early, I should be glad to arrange an evening meeting for Monday, 27th. Will you be so good as to let me know at your earliest convenience which date will suit you best, and I will take pains to secure for you the audience I should like you to have. If you are to be in Ohio this month, wculd it be possible for you to arrange to talk in Cleveland? In that case, may I suLLest that you write, naming my request, directly to Mrs. ligaiw_Laxiaixamaanl.s..LCAty Club, Stillman Theatre q14. 12jand. I think it very desiia131That. you should have an opportunity for stating your position to the group of women whom Mrs. Sanford would oe able to assemble for you. Miss Jones has already gone south, but you would be assured of the same audience she could command, as well as many othersea, Believe Lie, sincerely 136:G 01310- C2n-.3) a-4 3328 EUCLID AVENUE CLEVELAND kA NOV N't) • p_;_(..3u6 Xk-NN C\16 C1—) 9p-G ‘, Aa__,.Q.5) A. g;t a_it\ CX3;u-a. 71_ (JL k_ _ \LL, kk<LJ-41 fa—, w. • 2 Lk)L. . k- https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis , o A39 5 -3 \ —)%b—Stre. \4-eo—SL3.3 • 3328 EUCLID AVENUE CLEVELAND ca-ge ' 3° 1:% 1.).LLD https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Q„c) --„).... k......)45........S1t . ihj Ljh...e.\j s..j. thj -- —.._ 9 _3 ,C- . NEWS LETTER OF TEE Woman's Committee Council of National Defense. IDA M. TARBELL, HEADQUARTERS: 1814 N STREET NW., WASHINGTON, D. C. CHAIRMAN PUBLICITY COMMITTEE. Dr. ANNA HOWARD SHAW, Chairman. Mrs. As-roixErrE FUNK. Mrs. Pump N. Moosz, Secretary. Mrs. STANLEY MCCORMICK, Treasurer NIrs. josma E. COWLES. Mrs. Jostra R. LAMAR. Min NIAUDE WETMORE. Miss IDA M. TARBELL, Vice Chairman. Mrs. CARRIE CHAPMAN CATT. Miss AGNES NESTOR. Miss HANNAH J. PATTEusox, Resident Director. .0s APRIL 1, 1918. NUMBER EIGHTEEN Red Cross work, and was therefore sending their program to the Home Service Sections of the Red Cross all over the country. Dr. P. C. Claxton, Chief of the Federal Bureau of Education, made several vigorous and striking statements;"War is not now a question of galloping horses and shining swords; it is a question of laboratories and higher mathematics. Two educated young men may save 10,000 by invention and computation. Keep your boys in school." lie dwelt on the need, not of THE "CHILDREN'S YEAR" CONFERENCE. nine months, but twelve months of schooling for the Statements of reasons why the "Children's Year" sort of training which will fit children to take advanplan of the Children's Bureau of the Labor Depart- tage of this democracy which we are sacrificing so ment is emergency war work were considered by some much to obtain. "Conservation of children is the war measure," of those present as one of the best products of the conMrs. Joseph R. Lamar. "For the saving of difsaid and held Committee ference called by the Woman's March 14 and 15 at Washington. Dr. Jessica B. ferent kinds of food a whole administration has been Peixotto, head of the Committee's Department of created, but we have been in the war a year and it Child Welfare, presided. Miss Julia Lathrop acted remains for this Committee to start a campaign for the as honorary chairman. Numerous state chairmen of conservation of the greatest crop of all—children. The the Child 'Welfare Department and delegates, as well success of the campaign depends upon reaching the as eminent experts on various phases of the subject, greatest number of children. This is what our Committee is particularly able to do." were present. Various phases of the program were discussed at Full plans for the "Children's Year" have been previously announced in Children's Year Leaflet No. 1 length; some of the main features of the discussions and the working program. The patriotic emergency and reports will be found in the following notes. angle of this work was well set forth by several of the MEASURING—AND MILK AS A SOLID. Dr. Dorothy Mendenhall, introduced by Miss Lathrop as the person speakers. who developed the plan for the weighing and measuring contest inare present the of the children that see "We must corporated in the "Children's Year" program, said that she had Just of Agriculture properly prepared to take the place of those who are returned from a t^n weeks' trip for the Department measuring test, through Wisconsin. After discussing tile weighing and AbGrace Miss said Europe," in down being mowed she said that It had been found perfectly possible, after the children bott, of the Children's Bureau. "These children will in Wisconsin had been located, to register them; then to arrange to locality for the work. be asked to solve multitudinous social and economic according Dr. Mendenhall discussed some conditions of the problem of nutridifficulties developed by the war. They will be asked tion, telling of four towns In the state where fresh milk was no longer to eight cents a quart and dairies had to assume the enormous national debt. 'We must give sold. Because milk had goneparents decided that the family could do been forced out of business, them every advantage possible so that they may at without this "luxury." Milk was still considered to be only a pleasthat it was necessary to least reach maturity in condition to cope with great ant, watery liquid. Dr. Mendenhall held food. is a solid milk cally—that teach—paradoxi problems. We must stake out a new claim for the proMany at the conference expresmed alarm at the mistaken way, espetection of children; commercial claims upon them cially so far as children were concerned, that the Food AdministraIn some tion's suggestions on substitutes had been put Into practice. should be entirely turned aside." schools where milk had been sold for one cent a glass It hail been Mr. W. Frank Persons, of the Red Cross, said that discontinued so that the children might put their pennies into the he considered this plan of the Children's Bureau real Red Cross fund. THE ROAD TO FRANCE. DANIF.11. M. HENDERSON. !From Issue No. 1, Special Sarnmies' edition of Le Pollu.) Thalik God, our liberating lance Goes naming on the way to France! To France—the trail the Gurkhas found! To France—old England's rallying ground! To France—the path the Russians strode! To France—the Anzacs glory road! To France—where our Lost Legion ran To fight and die for God and man! To France—with every race and breed That hates Oppression's brutal creed! By 49620-18 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis COUNT YOUR CHICKENS—DELAWARE SPREADS THE GOSPEL VIA TRAVELING LIBRARIANS. .Teannette Eckman, of Delaware, stated that the first thing Delaware had to do was to find out how many children it had. She also spoke of their plan for spreading the gospel of child welfare by the book-wagon libraries sent through the country. In rural districts the iihrarian in charge is by force of circumstances a social worker, and the Delaware committee is expecting valuable publicity through the propaganda she can spread. FIND THE NUMBER OF NURSES. Miss Boyd, of Connecticut, reported that her state had concerned Itself immediately with a survey of nurses; 280 had been found, 230 more were urgently needed. She urged upon the conference the enormous need for public-health nurses. DOES HOME ECONOMICS INCLUDE THE CHILD? Mrs. Charles W. Green, chairman of the Child Welfare Department of Missouri, made a plea for instructing home economics directors as child-welfare workers. Miss Julia Lathrop said that at a home economics conference she had once felt impelled to call attention to the fact that there had been no mention made of child-welfare work, although homes and economics are both mainly for the "sheltering, feeding, and otherwise solacing ot children." No action was taken upon Mrs. Green's suggestion, but it was obvious that many present felt that the training of home• economics directors to do child-welfare WoUld 1)6 Seitnething we ecitild not begin too soon. ILLINOIS DEVELOPMENTS. --The chairman of the Child Welfare Department of Chicago, also the executive secretary of the Elizabeth McCormick Memorial Fund, Mrs. Ira Couch Wood, told of the intensive plans already in operation in Illinois. Several hundred women are ready now to commence a house-to-house canvass to try to secure a 100 per cent registration. Illinois will make a campaign for a community nurse for every county, considering this a first requisite in infant-welfare work, maternity protection, dispensaries. etc. Some plan for training nurses for public-health work is being considered as an immediate step toward decreasing the rate of infant mortality. Chicago will formulate a plan to assist the state department of health through its established clinics for infantile paralysis. It will endeavor to secure physicians for baby-week demonstrations and maternity clinics in different parts of the state. The creation of a central supply station for all child-welfare exhibit material, moving-picture els, charts, photographs, and lectures is an essential part of the general scheme. Bulletins will be issued oa all aspects of the work. Speakers and organizers will be sent throoghout the state. Many different classes of people are pledging their support. Illinois is also training public-health nurses, and surprising success is attending public-health lectures which are being given to children. This series of lectures was prepared in the face of discouragement from all sides. Everyone predicted that children could never be made to listen to lectures on health. Nevertheless they were prepared and tried on large groups of children in Chicago. Contrary to all predictions, they were enthusiastically received. They were told of II boy who wanted to be a soldier but couldn't, and why be couldn't, and what be might have done to make himself strong and well enough to be accepted. A picture was taken of the children from the rear of the room to prove their attention, and when the picture was developed it showed that out of five hundred boys present only one had his face turned around to see what the camera man was doing. Another encouragement Illinois offers is to urge that women be not afraid to ask for money. There is n tendency to think that women can get things done with less money than men would need for the same undertaking, but there is little truth in that theory. It is a needed work and requires money, and the response is usually very ready when the case is well presented. Money giving gives the public an added Interest in the campaign. IOWA'S RECORD. Dr. Lentia Meanes, of Iowa, read a paper on the re:larkable plan her state is pushing. In the last six years Iowa has made tremendous progress. The first baby-measuring and scoring-card contest was held six years ago in the kitchen of the agricultural school ; the following year It was done at the State Fair in an ordinary tent; the third year they had a house tent; the fourth year a Woman's and Children's Building was erected. From having a staff of a few volunteers, they now have twenty-two doctors and nurses on the pay roll. Their crowning achievement is the Child Research Station at the State University, for which the State Legislature is appropriating $25,000. Dr. Mulles was most hopeful of obtaining a vital-statistics law in Iowa. AMERICANIZATION VIA CHILD WELFARE. Buttenhelm, of New Jersey, told of the excellent organization of her state and the questionnaire to ascertain the general conditions surrounding children. She had caused the child-welfare material to be translated into foreign languages; now she can send to Russian, Podsh, and Hungarian mothers instructions in their own tongues. CENTERING ON CITIES. Mrs. Elizabeth B. Piper, of Cambridge, reported that Massachusetts wns concentrating on the baby campaign. In most states the main difficulty seems to lie with the rural districts. Massachusetts has centered Its work on its many large manufacturing cities. About seventy are now organized. Eight supervisors are making a survey of the state and directing the work. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis SCHOOLS; CLINIC MOTHERS. Mrs. Arthur T. Cox, of Indiana, told something of the work directed by Mrs. Albion Fellows Bacon, of Evansville, Ind. Mrs. Bacon hopes to have children's day celebrated in all schools on April 6 to inaugurate the weighing and measuring test. In the country places it will be accompanied by a noon picnic lunch at the schoolhouse. Autos will be sent for all mothers with little children under five. Either a room of the schoolhouse or a corner screened from the drafts will be set apart for the weighing and measuring. A trained nurse or perhaps the country doctor will be there, or if neither is available the right kind of mother will be in charge. In Evansville the Baby Clinics will probably do the work. The "clinic mothers" responsible for their very efficient clinic will carry out the scheme. THE H. H. V.'S. One of the many delegates, not Child Welfare chairmen, speaking on the subject of securing women to train as public-health nurses, took tip the question of Home Health Volunteers. She insisted that this was not a new departure, but a more systematic working of the public health nurse idea, extremely valuable under expert supervision. 110W TO WORK. Mrs. W. L. Notestein spoke for South Dakota, Dr. Ellen A. Stone for Rhode Island, Miss McCord for Pennsylvania, Mrs. Arneill for Colorado, .Mrs. George F.'Morris for New Hampshire. Mrs. Morris said that her state was now so organized that they believed they were ready to card every baby. Various delegates objected to the house-to house canvass. Nevertheless, 'since many states have no adequate birth registration, it is considered almost the only way to find the children. The question was raised as to whether the canvassers might be resented as intruders, and other means of inducing people to bring their children to be weighed and measured were suggested. One state intends to use stores as places for registration. The interest of the storekeeper assured, he will be asked to send word to parents that their children can be weighed and measured at certain appointed times. Dates will be set and scales provided. It was deemed important to have a financial committee to secure funds—for instance, to furnish enough scales. Doctors will be asked to give their services free. In rural communities it may be necessary to do the work on Saturday afternoons or Sundays, when farmers' families come to town. PURE LIVE STOCK. Mrs. Schilke, of Oregon, heartened the whole convention by telling of her experience in addressing a pure live-stock association of that state on the importance of child welfare. The following day the association passed a resolution that henceforth chiliren were to to, considered "just as important as any other live stock." HOME CARE AND INCOME. Mrs. Florence Kelley, of New York, of the National Consumers' League, spoke on the need of securing proper income and home care and persistently guarding against the breaking down of legislative safeguards thrown around children and women in industry. She told a touching story of the experience of a public nurse in a family below the poverty line, where the death of a sick baby and the baby's father resulted from the lack of money to secure coal. FOR YOUNG AMERICA. Mr. Owen Lovejoy, of the Child Labor Association, informed the conference that this was the first audience he had faced in the past few months who would look him in the face. All the others were afraid lest they should drop a stitch. lie hoped they would go right on knitting, and when they hind finished making all the soldiers warm and comfortable perhaps they would be able to see to it that every child in the country had a pair of nice woolen stockings. Mr. Love' Joy emphasized the fact that standards must be raised rather than lowered if young America be able to face the future. HOOVERIZING MOTHER AND CHILD. "Since the beginning of the war, we have been very busy Hooverizing food," said Dr. S. Josephine Baker, head of the Bureau of Child Hygiene of New York City, "but the time has come when we must be just as busy Hooverizing the child." Dr. Baker has done notable work in this line in the last three years, and will doubtless be able to render a proper account for New York's quota. "America is getting over her primery inertia, but she has yet to realize that protecting children is war service of the first Magnitude. Consider the tremendous loss abroad and the enormous need for these children to fill their fathers' places," was her serious injunction. One of the most interesting statements of the entire conference was made by Dr. Baker concerning the care of mothers. "Prenatal work is the child-welfare work of the future. It will avoid the necessity of a large proportion of the curative work which now has to be done. Compared with remedial child-welfare work, it is inexpensive. Intelligent provision for mothers before birth would cut the death rate of children under a year old to one-half. A good many cases of disease and subnormality of children are due to congenital causes, and it has been found that this class of cases never grows less. The problem is now hardly attacked at all." We hope that all Committee Conferences will prove as suggestive as this one, a record of which, if space permitted, we would like to print in its entirety. Before our next issue, the weighting and measuring of children will have begun. We hope that there will be no lack of volunteers to assist our child-welfare departments in the several states. (2) by experts, and seeds will be for sale in connection with an exhibit of garden tools. It will be a strong character, and one embittered about gardening, that goes into that store when spring is in the air and comes away without an outfit for a summer's garden and a head full of plans. A map of the city hangs on the wall showing vacant lots and the names of owners who are being interviewed in respect to using the land for gardens. Advice about the kind of seed to plant and how to plant it can always be secured, and plow factories will demonstrate plows on vacant lots and incidentally cultivate the land. Seed is provided free to anyone not able to buy it. Theee is even an expert on hand to tell exactly how to cope with garden insects. WHAT THE STATES ARE DOING TO HELP WIN THE WAR. PUTTING THE AMERICAN WOMAN ON HER JOB. "Registration for war service is the biggest piece of work which has been given to the women of Michigan to do," Gov. Albert E. Sleeper told the Committee at the recent convention held in Detroit. He gave to the project his heartiest indorsement and pointed out in no uncertain terms the importance of the undertaking. A chairman of registration in one township in South Dakota struggled valiantly through the cold, snow, and rain to make a house-to-house canvass for women who would give (ime to the Government. Again, in South Dakota, there is a woman whose husband is farming a three-quarter section. That WAR HOUSE IN ORDER. means tremendously heavy work for the housewife on YOUR spring a woman's fancy turns to house cleanIn the a farm. Nevertheless, she took the unit chairmanship, state conferences are the means many diviand ing, saying "Some one must, and all farmer women are using to put their houses in order. The are busy. I'll do my best." This is the spirit which sends sions which is the only one whose reconference, boys to the front and makes it possible for them to Michigan sults have been reported as we go to press, took place stay there. A. woman in Kansas City, Mo., registered that she on March 12 and 13. The two subjects considered had served in Poland as a policewoman, and offered were increased food production and registration, one her services in that capacity wherever she might be day being given to each subject. The state chairman needed. The daily papers were much interested in reports that it was a wonderful and thrilling occasion enthusithe case and ran a story about it. The next day a tele- with a large attendance, and that great for the and gram came to headquarters of registration from a city asm was aroused both for registration in the state, asking if it would be possible to get into "Woman on the land." The New Jersey conference took place on March 19 communication with this woman. The necessary in20 at Trenton. Though held under the auspices and formation was given, and within three hours she had Committee, it was not only for members but for the of been employed by the city making the inquiry. interested in war work or war problems. women all A call to the Kansas City registration headquarters conference will be held at the state Tennessee The for 250 stenographers to go to Washington was filled and 5. Reports from all women's 4 April on capitol from registration cards. Later calls were received for the work they have done will be of organizations social-service workers, and 100 were furnished. In war made of it to send to Washingrecords and St. Louis forty social-service workers were secured for submitted, Shaw will be present to adHoward Anna the Provident Association through reference to the ton. Dr. dress this meeting. cards. WOMEN SOLDIERS. PRACTICAL ART. The Colorado division is taking a census of nurses, specially needed now both in Army and civil life. They have appointed additional directors for the work. The people are responding to the call like, real soldiers." In North Carolina, Kansas, and Delaware a complete survey of nurses has been made, and a number of classes started in the latter state, where local sanitation is being studied and violations of the law reported to the board of health. The Michigan and Illinois Divisions have arranged for a course in mechanical drawing and drafting for girls. The Government needs draftswomen., PREPARING TO FARM. Experimental work in teaching and training girls in agriculture is one plan of the Illinois Division. A land army has been formed, and units will be sent to the dairy districts. Others will be trained for truck gardening. A costume of some serviceable design and material (not khaki) is under consideration. In Springfield, Ill., the local unit will establish a store where instructions on gardening will be given https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis SONG STIRS THE BLOOD. The formation of a "Liberty Chorus" in every county of Idaho is one of the efforts of that Division. Sometimes it is made up chiefly of high-school students. They are to be used at all community meetings, so that the Nation's famous war songs can be made familiar and sung by both chorus and audience as often as possible. THE FARM BUREAU. The Connecticut state chairman has issued a letter urging all the county chairmen to do everything possible to assist the County Farm Bureau membership campaign. The letter runs,"This campaign offers the best opportunity which the people of Connecticut, who are not actual producers of food, will have to contribute directly to the solution of food production and (3) conservation problems within the state. The farm "I couldn't make a dent in those people until I talked bureau exists for the women as well as for the men. to them about 'extension,'" said the agent. At least 100,000 women throughout the State will be WHO KNITS. reached by the demonstrations during the coming year In a little village of 600 inhabitants, in Hope, N. and as many more will be reached by other means." D., a recent sale to procure money for knitting maINFORMATION ON PRICES. Reporting unreasonable charges for food is one way terial brought in $4,000 in one day. The story of that in which the New Jersey Division is cooperating with day is inspiring. Everything from a canary bird to the State Food Administration. Notices are inserted an automobile was sold. "One hen egg brought in the papers asking women to advise headquarters $41.50." of exorbitant or unlawful sales. GOOD RECRUITS. AGE DOES NOT DISCOURAGE THIS WOMAN. One of the recruits of the Indiana Speaker's Bureau did such efficient work that she was called into the national service, going to South Dakota under the auspices of the Food Administration, making a whirlwind campaign of thirty-four speeches in eight days. The Jasper County (Mo.) unit has the honor of sending in the registration card of a woman 103 years old, who is a trained nurse, born and educated in Scotland. She offers her services for the period of the war, saying that she will serve anywhere. SAVING TIN FOIL AND FABRICS. IN THE MOVIES. Saving tinfoil and collapsible tubes, in wide use for dentifrices, paints, and other materials, is a real wartime saving which is being encouraged by the New York Division, because it is saving without false economy—the regeneration of material which otherwise would be lost. This Division will cooperate with the National Retail Drygoods Association in their plan to eliminate the sample-giving evil, as it is estimated that an average of 1 per cent in fabrics is given away in samples, although the result in sales is insignificant. The Committee is getting into the films in a numbei of places. In Kennett, Mo., reels illustrating various kinds of war work of the local unit are shown once a week. Patriotic addresses are given in the picture houses. NATURAL PAINT GROWN IN GARDENS. Georgia reports she is getting ready to plant gardens everywhere, and it is estimated that last year Georgia cut in half the amount she paid for foodstuffs as compared with what was spent in 1914. They propose this year to reduce the amount still more. Farmers' wives report that they have never before spent so little at the near-by stores as this winter, and their pantry shelves are still well supplied with canned fruit and vegetables. One of Georgia's most prominent speakers is con..,tantly calling attention to the fact that gardening and outdoor work will give natural color to girls' cheeks, so that they will break themselves of the habit of depending so largely upon the drug stores. PATRIOTIC WOMEN NEEDED. A local unit is getting under way at Live Oak, Fla. In this county, through which the famous Suwanee River flows, thirty-two draft opposers were recently captured as they were escaping, hoping to reach Bumblebee Island, refuge of outlaws. RUMMAGE SALE. The Columbia Unit of Missouri raised money by a monster rummage and auction sale. Some of the women went to the farmers soliciting donations of corn, obtaining a bushel here, two bushels there, until they filled a wagonload. This netted them a handsome sum! Eggs, chickens, sets of eggs, oats, and a pig were collected. The State Director of Child Welfare donated her prize rooster, which created the greatest interest and enthusiasm. rowELs FOR THE SOLDIERS. A towel shower is one of the efforts to which Georgia xomen are giving much time and thought. Base hospitals in Atlanta needed towels. Already 10,000 have been received and distributed. THE GOSPEL OF FOOD. CANS COMING. Florida has set itself the stint of raising and canning three million cans of "garden sass" in 1918. This may sound presumptuous, but Florida's canning clubs are in earnest, and cans are already bought and being shipped into the state. USING THE HOME EXTENSION SERVICE. Ohio's division sent out a county agent to explain the food situation to the farmers' wives in the "hill Counties" away from the railroads last year. She returned reporting that she must study further on the "Home Extension service of the agricultural colleges," https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis "The food war is fought right here," says the Iowa Division. Not only how to save food, but the reasons for the war, are being taught in the domestic-science classes of the Iowa schools, owing to a happy cooperation between the education. and food administration departments of the committee. The Chairman of Education, finding that many of the teachers did not themselves know enough about history or current events, succeeded in getting the three great state schools, the University, the Teachers' College, and the Agricultural College, to give courses for teachers in (4) different phases of food conservation. The State Chairman writes: "'We are going to reach the people who skip everything but the locals in the newspapers and never go to public meetings. For their children go to school." Telling people what they ought to do has little value unless you can make them also see why they ought to do it. COALING. The Illinois Division accomplished a great deal (luring the two weeks of acute coal famine. Sixteen thousand three hundred and thirty-nine orders for coal were filled by the woman's section of the Illinois Fuel Administration. THE HELPFUL HEN. A BAS SUBMARINES! In Vermont, Massachusetts, New York,and Michigan the committee is assisting in the enrollment of shipbuilders. THE COMMITTEE PLAYS DETECTIVE. Word came some time ago to the agricultural county agent's ace in Crow Wing County, Minn., that men calling themselves representatives of the Food Administrator were examining the supplies in the cellars of people living near Crosby and Ironton. He called up the county and town chairmen of the Woman's Committee at once. Within 10 minutes after the message came the town chairman of Crosby had put in the hands of the printer copy of a handbill asking everyone to assist in apprehending these "misrepresentafives"of the Food Administration. Colorado is another state stressing poultry this year, THE VALIANT POLICEWOMAN. Indianapolis has secured a policewoman, due to the especially the Hinsdale County unit. efforts of the health and recreation department of the BE A SOLDIER OF THE SOIL. Indiana division. She will assist in maintaining decontribution: sirable conditions in the camp at Fort Benjamin HarThe appended card is a real rison this summer. Maryland Council of Defense—Women's Section. REAL COOPERATIVE ENTERPRISES. To put an end to profiteering, the New York State division is urging the organization of all persons now cooperating in a minor way in buying and selling in pledge myself to do my bit, as a soldier of the soil, the state. It is the experience not only of our own during the year 1918, by: in people but of a great number of other countries that, Planting a food garden Raising chickens if purchaser and seller can be brought into agreement Raising pigs on the principles of eliminating unnecessary middleIncreasing dairy products men, profiteering may be cut out and the cost of comFruit growing modities so reduced that the workingman's purse feels (Place a cross opposite the work you intend to undertake.) hardship. less Name This pledge secured by: Food Production Committee, 518 North Charles Street. Address UNIQUE FEATURE IN LONE STAR PARADE. THE EXAMPLE OF THE CHILDREN. The Children's Public Market has proved itself of extreme interest in Sante Fe. The school children in the thrift clubs above the fourth grade provided themselves with an outlet for their garden produce. It proved itself very useful for disposing of stuff already planted for family purposes. The children made tables of light and easily transportable material, suitable for displaying their products. Some brought their goods on little wagons and lined them up so they could be examined. The market, which offered vegetables, fruits, squabs, chickens, and eggs, was open Saturday morning from 9 until 11. The sale was supervised by a committee of five women in turn. This coming summer Sante Fe will have a market for adults as well as children. The State division urges maintenance of open markets in every city and town in New Mexico; it does not matter on how small a scale the market be started, the main thing is to begin. They call markets New Mexico's "big thing." https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis On Texas independence day our division in Texas took part in a big patriotic parade. Instead of flags, the Texas publicity chairman suggested using small gas balloons, in red, white, and blue. These were to have sLrings 3 feet long, and on these strings were fastened bulletins on food conservation, thrift, etc. At a given point in the parade these balloons were liberated to float away and carry their messages to other parts of the state. WE ATTEND TO TEETH, TOO. In Delaware a dental committee was formed by the state division, which equipped a dental clinic and secured the volunteer services of a number of prominent local dentists. Here recruits who otherwise would not be able to pass the examination for service in Navy or Army were given treatment. One hundred and thirty-one recruits were benefited by the work of the clinics. The committee continued its work as long as the need was felt, and, although temporarily disbanded, is ready to reorganize whenever called again. In England this sort of relief station is called the "Ivory Cross." (5) AMP* apolis has been planning a survey dealing with the hours of labor, sanitation, women replacing men, and the history of married women with dependent families. One large industry in Minnesota also proposed a similar investigation. The Minnesota division made their questionnaire comprehensive, and the answers secured will be available to everybody. LOOKING BRAVELY TO REEDUCATION. The Missouri department of courses of instruction is assembling information as to the courses available in St. Louis for the training of teachers to be employed in the reeducation of handicapped men returned from the battle fields. To this end an advisory committee has been formed, consisting of two medical men, one business man, one labor representative (the superintendent of a trades school), and they succeeded in establishing an employment bureau for crippled civilians (sponsored by the chamber of commerce and indorsed by the war board) in order to ascertain in what forms of industry the various classes of cripples may be valuable. A record will be kept of the findings of these experiments for vocational guidance. WOMEN AT WORK. CONVENIENCE PLUS PROTECTION IN DELAWARE. A tea house with a small dormitory for women and girls visiting soldiers has been established at Delaware City. SEEING IS BELIEVING. Missouri excels in the matter of pageants, and arrangements for the performance of the "Progress of Liberty" have been made through the month of July. These performances will take place twice a month in different parts of the state. The pageant is an educational one, and has already been successful, as was the "Building of a Nation" last year. CONSERVATION MATHEMATICS. "One canner," reports the California Women in Industry department, "who was complaining about an inadequate labor supply last season was asked if he knew where women could be housed and fed. He did not know this, nor the cost of board nor where his workers could get board. Yet this man was complaining because he could not get women to come from Los Angeles when not even he knew how they could be taken care of." The California division investigates such cases. In Delaware, where the Women in Industry department has four subdivisions, the one dealing with standards reports an increase of women in clerical positions and women replacing men in mechanical positions in various mills, railroad shops, and factories. A uniform is worn by the workers. Women are grinding tools, operating drill presses, distributing tools and materials in storerooms. So far as the committee could discover, no articles weighing over 25 pounds are handled. The committee has under consideration the housing problem at Newcastle. In Illinois, Secretary Baker's ruling on tenement-house labor and the standards for Government contracts have been sent to the trade-unions and many other organizations. The Women in Industry department there has made recommendations, as a result of its investigation, which include such items as higher wages, an eighthour day, no night work for women, and one day's rest in seven. "Vital statistics" may make dry figures interesting to the children in the public schools in Evanston, Ill. The conservation committee there has prepared arithmetic and algebra textbooks, which the schools have introduced. Instead of finding out how much faster A can run than B, the children have such problems as this: LITERATURE. The average use of wheat flour is 4.9 pounds per person each •veek. If on wheatless days no wheat flour is eaten and normal amounts are used on other days, what would be the saving in flour per person each week? For Evanston? For the whole nation of 100,000,000? About how many barrels of 190 pounds each will be saved by the Nation weekly? No state has put out a more excellent group of pamphlets than California. Their subjects are public health, information and library service, Americanization, maintenance of social agencies, women in industry, So interested are the children in these problems, girls' war service, and conservation recipes. which have been carefully compiled according to fig- ANOTHER REASON FOR ENGLISH. ures obtained from the Food Administration, that they There are ninny reasons for pushing Americanizago themselves to the grocery and butcher shops to find one is patriotism. Another angle is out prices, weights, amounts, and to compute what can tion—the usual presented by the chairman of the Committee on be accomplished by various kinds of saving. Women in Industry in Illinois: "Because many women do not speak English they are always the first to be SURVEYS. exploited; they are always the first to be victimized. Through its questionnaire called "Industrial Survey They are the victims of circumstances because they of Women Employed Outside the Home," the Minnecan not read the signs. They can not understand the sota division (Committee on Women in Industry) has boss when he says watch out.'" The Illinois division effected a piece of valuable work which saves other actively at work on the campaign to teach English to is surveys by organizations perhaps not in a position to men, women, and children. all do the job so well. The associated charities of Minne- https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis (0) ORGANIZATION NOTES. WOMEN DOCTORS MARSHAL RESOURCES. A woman doctors' committee, with a representative in each county, recognized by Surgeon General Gorgas, is one of the new features of the work of the Connecticut division. A unit for emergency medical relief has been organized on the plan of the one that was so efficient in Halifax. A census of medical resources, ambulances, automobiles, chauffeurs, Red Cross equipment of beds, bedding, and available houses for receiving patients, etc., has been taken, and the Home Guard is being drilled for its part in giving aid. The extension of this plan throughout the state will be subject to the Surgeon General's orders. OUR WORK. THE WRITTEN WORD FROM WASHINGTON. During the past month these circulars not previously mentioned have been issued: No. 97, sent at the request of the Labor Department, which tells of the establishment by the United States Employment Service of a teachers' and professional service employment bureau in Chicago. The manner of sending circular letters and bulletins is covered in Nos. 99 and 99a. Two bulletins from the Council of National Defense, one on regular committees and the other on retail deliveries, were transmitted with No. 101. The Educational Department sent out in Nos. 103 and 105 information on Americanization of aliens, and transmitted a pamphlet by the National Americanization Committee. Dr. J. B. Peixotto inclosed the figures assigning to each state its quota of children to be saved during children's year in No. 104. In circular No. 106 Miss Tarbell writes of the scope and function of state publicity departments. A call for H. H. V.'s, or Home Health Volunteers, was made in circular No. 107 by Dr. Peixotto in the Child Welfare campaign while Nos. 108 and 109 inclose a reference book and other material for speakers transmitted through the Educational Department. Nos. 110 and 110a announce the Conference on Child 1Velfare, which is reported elsewhere in this issue. Miss Patterson incloses an outline for bi-monthly reports in No. 111. Mrs. Lamar writes of annual elections in No. 112. No. 113 transmits to honorary members of the committee Dr. Esther Lovejoy's report upon her return from France (No. 113a to State Chairmen). State Chairmen are informed by circular No. 114 of plans for State Conferences of Representatives. No. 115 transmits a call for a conference of State Chairmen of Women in Industry. The American Library Association's request for books is the subject of No. 116. No. 117 incloses a letter from the Committee on Public Information on Americanization agencies. No. 118 is devoted to the transmissal of labor standards adopted by the Committee for Women in Industry. No. 119 is from Miss Tarbell to the publicity chairmen with a request for reports and directions on organization matters. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis In four states the chairman of the Division is a member of the Executive Committee of the State Council, Florida, Arizona, Pennsylvania, and Utah. In thirtyfive states the chairman of the Woman's Committee is a member of the State Council. The State Council of Defense in Utah has been very liberal in its appointments, asking six representative women of the state, besides five members of the executive board of the Woman's Committee, to serve on the state executive committee. Utah women are very proud of this. Our state, county, and town units now number over nine thousand, and in addition to these there are nearly a thousand precinct, ward, and district units. This month thirty-two states record an increased number of local units. Six states give account of the organization of colored units. A school for colored girls has been opened in Daytona, Fla., the State Council financing the colored organizer's work. Missouri has recommended that chairmen of units be put on all local councils. The governor of the state of New York has requested the County Councils to place the county chairmen of the Women's Committee of county executive committees. FROM OUR FOREIGN NEWS BUREAU. In a few lines of the address of Gen. Bordeaux at the funeral of the first American soldiers to fall on the French soil lies a message to the mothers of America: "These graves, the first to be dug in our national soil, at but a short distance from the enemy, are as a mark of the mighty hand of our allies, firmly clinging to the common task, confirming the will of the people and Army of the United States to fight with us to a finish; ready to sacrifice as long as It is necessary, until final victory for the noblest of causes—that of liberty of nations, the weak as well as the mighty. "We will, therefore, ask that the mortal remains of these young men be left—be left to us forever. We will inscribe on their tombs: "Here lie the first soldiers of the United States Republic to fall on the soil of France for justice and liberty." "The travelers of France, of the allied countries, of America, the men of heart who will come to visit our battle field of Lorraine, will go out of their way to come here—to bring to these graves the tribute of their respect and of their gratefulness. "Corporal Gresham, Private Enright:- Private Hay: In the name of France. I thank you. God receive your souls. Farewell." UNDERGROUND HOUSES AND INSURANCE. In a number, dated November 23, of that wonderful little sheet, l'Independence Beige, published here, there, anywhere, voicing the still indomitable spirit of Belgium, there is an account of life in Paris, under date of February 19, written by Jean Bernard. He says that— "Formerly one advantage of a Paris apartment house was that you did not have to know your neighbors." He had lived twenty years in the same one (7) .41111/. without having his acquaintance with any of his neighbors go beyond the stage of a formal lifting of the hat when he met them in the hall. "Air raids have changed all that. The cellar is the latest salon for polite conversation, and there one makes acquaintances. "The porter who comes to warn you of an impending raid tells you as he knocks at your door that the gentleman from the first floor has already descended and that the lady from the second floor will not keep anyone waiting. All descend to cellars that have gradually become furnished. A few chairs and a table have been carried down to one. Someone else has installed ." divan de fortune," ready to pass the night under steamer rugs. "The large hotels have converted part of their underground apartments into bedrooms, comfortable if not luxurious, putting in electricity and the necessary heating appliances. Here favored strangers pass the night in absolute safety. These bedrooms are always engaged. "Practical men lose little time. Agents of insurp.nce companies now visit you, proposing contracts that guarantee your property against damage from aerial raids. These policies have a short term. One signs for a year and hopes one may not have to renew. The tariff is high-three to the thousand-without counting the stamp, or the fee for registering, or the natural tax. "As to insurance against personal injury, one pays a premium of twenty francs for 5,000 in case of death. The companies do much business. It is certain to be a useless precaution, but people take these policies just the same. At. least it has given a little life to the insurance business, which has fallen upon dull days since the war began." Nationalism, War and Society. Edward KrelibieL, (Mac3ril1an Co., 1916.) $1.50. With no introduction by Norman Angell. "For the dissemination of ideas and ideals which shall make for a reduction of war." The Things that Men Fight For. II. II. Powers. (MacMillan Co., 1917.) $1.50. With some applications to present conditions in Europe. Roadside Glimpses of the Great War. Arthur Sweetser. (MacMillan Co., 1916.) A newspaper man's experiences in France. Mr. Brilling Sees It Through. H. G. Wells. (MacMillan Co., 1917.) $1.60. One of the best stories of the war. The Diplomacy of the Great War. Arthur Bullard. (MacMillan Co., 1917.) $1.50. Written to help the American reader understand the diplomatic moves before the war. The World at War., Georg Brandes. (MacMillan *Co., 19174 $1.50. Including his "Foreboding-18S1," and the "Conclusion" as to what must be the basis of lasting peace. The Campaign of 1014 in France and Belgium. G. II. Perris. (Henry Holt .&„ Co., 1915.) War Bread. Edward Eyre Hunt. (Henry IIolt & Co., 1916.) A personal narrative of the war and relief in Belgium. Atlantic Monthly. Vols. 115, 116, 117, 118. (The Atlantic Monthly Co., 1915-1016.) • Containing some of the best war stories in print. Ordeel by Battle. Frederick Scott Oliver. (MacMillan Co.. 1917.) "In its practical teachings the best book that this war has produced."-Theodore Roosevelt. Better Meals for Less Money. Mary Green. (Henry Holt Si Co., 1917.) "A cook book with an economical and scientific viewpoint." Carry On. Lieutenant Conningsby Dawson. (John Lane Co., 1917.) $1. Letters in wartime. Women of Belgium. Charlotte Kellogg. With an introduction by Herbert Hoover. (Funk & Wagnalls Co., 1917.) $1.50. Concerning relief work in Belgium. Italy, France, and Britain at War. H. G. Wells. (MacMillan Co., 1917.) $1.50. The Aftermath of Battle. Edward D. Toland. With an introduction by Owen Wister. (MacMian Co., 1916.) $1. With the Red Cross in France. With the Flying Squadron. Harold Roosher. Introduction by Arnold Bennett. (MacMillan Co., 1916.) $1.25. Letters to his family. The War for the World. Israel Zangwill. (MacMillan Co., 1910.) $1.75. A Hilltop on the Manic. Mildred Aldrich. (Houghton, Mifflin BOOKS RECENTLY RECEIVED FOR THE WAR Co., 1915.) Letters written June 3-September 8, 1914. LIBRARY AT NATIONAL HEADQUARTERS. The Socialists and the War. William English Walling. (Henry Holt & Co., 1915.) Statement of the position of Socialists of all countries, with special reference to their peace policy. Women and Ida World the War. Clyde (D. Clarke. American The Heritage of Tyre. William Brown Melon -y. Appleton & Co., New York.) $2. A national service hand1916.) 50 cents. Suggestions for the recovery of our Co., first The of four is work. its parts devoted book of women's sea heritage. to the work of the Woman's Committee with a chapter on Makers. Amy Hewes and Henriette R. each department. Part II tells of the state organizations, Women as Munitions Walter. (Russell Sage Foundation, 1917.) 75 cents. Study Part III the war-relief organizations, and Part IV a directory of conditions in Bridgeport, Comm., and Summary of Reports of the leading women's organizations doing defense work. It issued by British Ministry of Munitions. shows how women organized, what they have accomplished, at The Hague. Jane Addaips, Emily Balch, and Alice Wonzen and something of their plans for the future. (MacMillan, 1910.) 75 cents. The International Hamilton. War Work. Helen Fraser. and (G. Arnold Shaw, New Women Women and its results. of Congress York.) $1.50. With a foreword by President 11. N. Macof Nationalities. Israel Zangwill. (MacMillan The Principle Cracken, of Vassar College, was written to tell American cents. 50 1917.) Co., women what English women have done. It tells of their Arthur Bullard. (MacMillan Co., 1917.) America. Mobilizing organization, their relief work, their industrial replacement, 50 cents. and of the reconstruction that is to follow. Their True Faith and Allegiance. Gustavus()Winger. Foreword The World War. Elbert Francis Baldwin. (MacMillan Co., by Owen Wister. (MacMillan Co., 1917.) 1914.) $1.35. How it looks to the nations involved and how Belgium. It. C. K. Ensor. (Henry Holt & Co.) Home Uniit looks to us. versity Library. 60 cents. The Restoration of Europe. Dr. Alfred H. Fried. (MacMillan Poland. W. Alison Phillips. (Henry Holt & Co.) Home University Library. CO cents. Co., 1916.) $1. Suggestions for a world court or world state. (8) https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis w•allINGTON:GorERNLIZNT PRINTING OPTIC!: 1511 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis March 3, 1919. Wiss Lucia B. Johnson, ftecutive Secretary Wown's Committee, Ohio Branch, Coancil of National Defense, State House, Columbus, Ohio. MI dear Miss Johnson: This will introduce to you Mrs. Helen B. Service, who Irvin of the staff of the Won in Imlustry ms of roble . al is in charge of work for -us in the speci meke a Nebro worn in industry. She is planning to woJen in brief survey of conditions affecting Negro y to a industry in various places in Ohio, preparator the Division conference to be held under the auspices of We should of Negro Econoalcs of the Department of Labor. advice be very grateful if you would give Mr. Irvin the aml sssistan-lEt #hich she needs. As I t not s,)re -mhether Miss Sherwin is in with the hope Columbus, I an sending this letter to you Sherwin and t. Miss to Irvin th,t you will introduce Mrs. in touch with ng getti any others who will help her in Ohio which in s place other conditions in Columbus and in She will visit. Sincerely yours, taK/ALL Mpry Van Kleeck, Director Woman in Iniustry Service. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis March 8, 1919. Miss Lucia B. JCinson, Exeoutive Secretary Woman's Co(Lmittee, Council of Ritional Defense, State House, Columbus, Ohio. My dear Miss Johnson: for several days Miss Van Kleeok is out of to so she has asked me to acknowledge your letter of the 18th and explain the status of our appropriation. 0 The Woman An Industry Service was the only war service recomtonded far continuance by the Cozmittee on Ap-ropriations but the appropriation recommended was only $40,000. Efforts were made by Miss Rankin to amend it to provide for $150,000 and after an interesting debate, which wee in a eons* a victory for us because of the statenents of approval of our work, the motion to increase the appropriation MO defeated oy vote of 68 to 58. The house finally passed the bill carrying the appropriation of $40,000, and no one raised the point of order which might have bean sustained against us. The Senate, however, did not consider the Sundry Civil bill, so we must wait for the next session to know whether our work will go on after June 30th. In any event all °fut must get together to work for the establishment of a Women's Bureau on a statutory basis. The report of this year's Committee on Ap7ropriations and the debate on the aaelidment give us good material as a basis for such a campaign. 16 are counting on your interest. Sincerely yours, ALL Secretary to Miss Van Klimek. WOMAN'S COMMITTEE OHIO BRANCH COUNCIL 01il_NATION,AL IDE.V.V.Nt4E•••••or......00,e• BELL 3000, 8091, 3002 CHAIRMAN crrizEN 7883, 7031 February 18, 1919. STATE HOUSE. COLUMBUS • - STATE HOUSE,COLUMBUS MISS BELLE SHERWIN VICE CHAIRMEN MRS. GEORGE ZIMMERMAN - FREMONT MRS. S. B.SNEATH - "rum N MRS.LAWRENCE MAXWELL - CINCINNATI MRS. MALCOLM L. MoBR IDE - CLEVELAND DAYTON MRS. ELIZABETH WOLF SEC EE - MRS.W.0.auirompsorr Comm:Dye TREASURER MRS.CLARENCE E. MACK CINCINNATI STATE HOUSE. COLUMBUS EXECUTIVE SECRETARY MISS LUCIA B. JOHNSON ASSISTANT SECRETARY - - STATE HOUSE. COLUMBUS MRS. HENRY R. SPENCER Laos Liary A. VanKleeck, Women in Industry 3ervice, Department of Labor, Washington, D. C. Lly dear Miss Van Kleeck; under date of 2ebruary At :]iss Ilhher's suestion, we sent letters for a substantial asking 12th, to Ohio Representatives in (;ongress, Jervice. apJropriation for the Women in industry a copy of the letter, and We tnought you might be interested to see in the continuation an!_enclosing one. I assure you that our interest of services rendered to the of your Jepartment and our appreciation state, is most genuine and sincere. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Very cordially yours, _ Executive Jecret 0119t0) U. (C 0 .-1:3 February 12, 1919. Hon. Nicholas Langworth, House of Representative, lashincton, D. C. dear Longworta: 7e snail be grateful if you will indicate to the Honorable Swagar Jhirley, chairman of the Committee on Appropriations, that we are hoping to see an adequate and substantial appropriation made to the 7/omen in Industry ervice of the Department of L'Ibor. Information collected and policies developed by this Jervice have been of material benefit to the women of Ohio. The help given to women's organizations, such as our own Committee on Jamen in Industry, has been invaluable and leads us to believe that discontinuance of the 3ervico w)uld be disastrems. 7e believe that it is absolutely necessary at this time and that it has been wisely and efficiently administered. Thanking you for Tlur interest and cooperation, I am https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Very truly yours, LImecutive ecrotary. "IN STATYNT PREPARED FOR THE NEWS LETTER OF THE WOMAN'S COMMITTEE COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE The establishment of the Woman in Industry Service in the Departnent of Labor is a recognition of the national importance of wo,en's work. Plans for it antedated the war by eight years, and it may be said that the importance of women's vork antedated the establishTent of the Woman in Iniustry Service soms centuries. A Foam's bureau was asked for in 1909 by the Natioral Women's Trade Union League to safeguard women in iniustry, :And the request then made by ,age-earning women themselves was prophetic of the larger view of women's work ani of all labor which is now becomirg clearer. The two great needs of tie nation ape are efficient and vigorous production and efficient and vigorous citizenship. The man-po,er of the nation is being irafted in overwhelming proportions into military service. Women ,r.ust soon constitute the reserve force as *ell as the front lire of the industrial man ro or. The Woman in Industry Service, called irto action durirg the Aar, therefore conceives of its task not as representing the interests of *omen as a separate class but as expressirg in all its policies the nation's twofold need for waen's cork, - the need for productive man-poet an the need for the finest type of citizenship now and in the generation to follow. A new conception of women's service as narroal and essential, so long as it be wholesome and efficient, in aw occuration necessary to the national life, is the best promise of the new freedoui for women, - freedom: to serve their country tfrough their industry not as women but as workers Judged by the twos stAndarde rewarded. by the 6,4143 recori-ense as men. Protective measures necessary to safeguard health should be maintained anl enlarged for women al Ain. They should have been extended long ago to Am as m311 as to Nolen, as the protection of equal citizenship and the rights of voluntary association should have been asfAlred *omen as well as to men, from the ittont ,bsn. they took their place in inlustry. Women like en should not be given tasks harmful to them because of undue demands upon muscular and nervous enlurance. Women will differ from men in physical capacity, hut so also 4I do :.en differ from one another in the work which it is physically safe for them to undertake. The great task now is not to get apart women from imiustry, : but to apply the medical anl engineering kno ledge of the courtry to ;flaking all Nork safe and healthful for the men and haT:en who are producirg for the nation's needs. The challenge of the nation to industry and labor at this Use Is to ,i.ake industry safe are healthful, democratic and just, not in the interest of any one group, men or women, capital or Libor, not because a wition's crusade for freedom imperatively requires it, The present stage of the crusade is mar and production for the war. The next etage will be reconstruction and DOW growth. Upon the fo,Anintion of economic justice to all citizens must the new state be built. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis P FORM 12.3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT COMMITTEE ON OF THE MRS. V. EVERIT MACY TREASURER MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. SARA A. CONBOY MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY ADVISORY COMMISSION MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS AMY HEWER EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis WOMEN IN INDUSTRY OF THE MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. (j.r°1' April 2, 1918. Miss Mary VanKleeck, Room B, 3- 112, New Ordnance Bldg., Washington, D. C. My dear Miss VanKleeck: Thmxic you for finding the time when you are so very busy, to go over the Jeffersonville It has been considerably smoothed out report. since you read it and I am now incorporating your sucTestions. Miss Abbott and Miss Goldmark were very prompt with theirs this time, but I have not yet had corrections from Miss Anderson, and I am afraid to submit the reports without hearing from her. This is the only piece of work which is keeping me now. I have telegralthed to Miss Anderson this morning and ought to hear from her today. This will make it possible for me to begin work with the Ordnance Department on Thursday morning, and I shall report then unless you hear from me to the contrary tomorrow. Yours very truly, Executive Secretary. AH-DD. FORM 12-2 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS • THE OFFICERS MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN MRS. V. EVERIT MAGY TREASURER MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis AND MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY ANDERSON COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY OF THE ADVISORY MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. SARA A. CONDO? COMMISSION OF THE MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. iiarch 15, 1913. Liss ,i1).ry Vanneeck, Roam 301, 1330 F St., Washington, D. C. My dear Miss VanKleeck: Enclosed is the draft of the letter to the Chairman in the states where there are two representatives. Lirs. Field is unwilling to allow the reference to Dr. Shaw to stand if we keep the words:"subject to the approval of the Chairman of the Labor Committee", which Li.. Gompers wishes added. As there is no question of anitting this, the letters have gone out without the phrase inI am sorry for dicating Dr. Shaw's approval. ion whatsoever concess no this; it seems that side, but I other the from can ever be secured soon belong will which ono suppose the matter is to history. Yours very sincerely, Exe utive Secretary. _ March 16, 1918. (Sanville, Guggenheimer, Gee, Drier) In order to eliminate the confusion arising from two conferences committees on women in industry in the several states, committees have been held and a plan drawn for merging the state This plan has of the Labor Committee and the Woman's Committee. ee the approval of Mr. Samuel Gompers,Chairman of the Labor Committ .,..„ -Tionuag-s-Commi4490-, and as is outlined in the report of the Committee on Co-operation follows: "Recommended by the Committee on Cooperation with the Woman's Committee that the state committees of the Committee on Women in Industry should be merged with the Comstate committees on women in industry of the Woman's be will ees It is understood that these committ mittee. brought in close relation to State Councils of Defense. It is also recommended that thechairmen of these Committees this Committee ab its State on -,:omen in Industry should be designateL by If in any state there are at present Representatives. dffferent chairmen, it should be suggested to them that both should resign and a new chairman should be appointed by the ?oman's Committee, subject to the approval of the Chairman of the Labor Committee." In order that the adjustment may accordingly be made, I am instructed to ask your co-operation through the tendering of You will, of course, understand that this is your resignation. asked for, not without full appreciation of the valuable services which you 'nave already rendered to tge Committee and with the expectation that these will be continued under the new plan. In any case the continuance of your membership on the General Committee is largently desired. Yours very sincerely, AH https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 2xecutive Secretary. ; FORM 12-2 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN MRS. V. EVERIT MACY TREASURER MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY MISS AMY HEWER EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis MISS GRACE ABBOTT COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. SARA A. CONBOY OF THE ADVISORY MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL COMMISSION MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS FLORENCE THORNE OF THE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. March 15, 1916. ilMALLAT;a1L Industry A meeting of the Osismittee on Wemen in ng, Buildi or Interi the of rlem will be bold in the Audito on Itaiday, March 18th am* F Ste., Washington, D. C. at 10 00 25th, 1918. s to Arrangements are being made for the member Administration have lunch in the cafeteria in the Food For this purpose it will Building, two blocks away. ment of the exact number manage be necessary to inform the let this office know kindly Will you to be served. the meeting and whether at t presen be to thether you intend Administration you would like to take lunch in the Food Building? (7f.el Ex0OutiVe Secretary. FORM 12-3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY OF THE MRS. V. EVER1T MACY TREASURER https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT OF THE MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. SARA A. CONSOY MISS MARY E. MCDOWELL ADVISORY COMMISSION MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY ANDERSON MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. March 15, 1918. Miss Mary Van Kleeck, Industrial Service Section, Ordnance Departwent, gashington, D. C. My dear Miss Van Kleeck: At last Miss Abbott and Miss Goldmark have agreed is on the recommendations for the 2icatinny report and it to Dean being formally submitted to the Secretary of War and Schneider. I am inexpressably sorry that this formal final action has been so long delayed. the Will you be so kind as to return or destroy sent to you preliminary drafts of the report which were in January? Yours very sincerely, AH-A3. Executive Secretary. • FORM 12-3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. V. EVERIT MACY TREASURER OF THE MRS. SARA A. CONBOY MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY ADVISORY COMMISSION MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis OF THE MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE 0.,,,,Autrisanums: WASHINGTON, D. C. Feb. 16, 1918. Miss Mary VanKleeck, I. 301, 1330 F St., Washington, D. C. My dear Miss VanKleeck: The copy of the Picatinny Arsenal report sent to 1912 G St. when we understood you were confined to the house, has been returned to this office this morning. I had hoped to send you today the report in final form but have received , only this morning from Miss McConnell who has had a typed copy since January 26th, a request for several changes, vtaich are not yet made. However, I would suggest that you use the enclosed copy instead of the drafts that were formerly sent you if you wish to refer to the Picatinny material in the meantime. Yours very sincerely, Executive Secretary. AH FoRm 12-3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN COMMITTEE ON MRS. V. EVERIT MACy TREASURER ADVISORY MISS AMY HEWES EXECUT/VE SECRETARY MRS. SARA A. CONBOY COMMISSION MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT OF THE MISS FLORENCE THORNE COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. 2ebruary 14, 1918. Miss Mary Van Kleeck, Room 301; 1330 2 St., Washington, D. C. My dear Miss Van Kleeck: I now have the Picatinny report in shape for transmission though I am still holding it in order to clear up one or two minor points with Miss McConnell. These were taken up with her some time ago, but West Chester appears to be a very inaccessible place and mail is very much delayed in reaching her. I have written to find out from Miss Goldmark if the recommendations of the committee are ready. AS soon as I receive these, they will be typed and the report formally transmitted. Yours very sincerely, AH-AB. MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE OF THE MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MISS MARY ANDERSON Executive Secretary. MISS MARY VAN KLEECK https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Washington, February lq, 1918. Miss Mary Van Kleeck, Room 301, 1330 2 St., Washington, D. C. My dear Miss Van Kleeck: I have talked over the Committee's future with Miss Abbott and Mrs. Macy. They both agree that there is no question, but that the best opportunity for effective work should be seized. They also agree, however, that it would be very desirable if the Committee could hold together long enough to secure the following things: 1. Recommendations for the supervision of woman labor in the Navy Department on the basis of the Brooklyn and Charleston reports; 2. Recommendations for the supervision of woman labor in the Quartermaster's Department on the basis of the Jeffersonville report; 3. Recommendations for the supervision of woman labor on the railroads; 4. The recommendation of an able person to head . the Woman's Division in the Department of Labor. It is Miss Abbott's idea that if these things can be done the Committee's further function of advice and criticism might be rendered through a different organization and personnel from the present. Miss Abbott is going to try to arrange to be at the Committee meeting on Monday afternoon. Can we depend on you to be there at that time' If so, I will try to arrange the agenda so that the ouestions which require important action shall come up at that session. Yours very sincerely, FORM 12-9 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MRS. V. EVERIT MACy TREASURER MRS. SARA A. CONBOY ADVISORY COMMISSION MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECK1NRIDGE OF THE MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL OF THE MISS FLORENCE THORNE COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. :*iss Lary VanKleeck, 1330 F. St., iashington, D. ..Ly dear lass VanKlenck: I can not explain why a copy of the Picatinny report has not reached you unless it was treated as second-class mail matter, because enclosed in a manilla envelope. This sometimes happens. When the report was first typed on February 13t, wo could not reach your office by telephone. Later on February 5th, Miss Bradford was informed that you were still at home and the report was sent to you at 1912 G St. I am enclosing herewith another copy. Liss L.c Connell has not yet sent in any corrections for this. Changes in form will doubtless have to be made. It was sent out to the conmittee in order to expedite action ir the hope that the committee might draw up recommendations in the pressnt form of the report,so that it might be filed sooner than otherwise. Yours very sincerely, a ill-`7 Executive Secretary. MISS MARY VAN KLEECK FORM 12-3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE 'OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN COMMITTEE ON MISS AMY HEWER EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. SARA A. CONBOY OF THE MRS. V. EVERIT MACy TREASURER MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY MISS GRACE ABBOTT • MISS MARY E. McDOWELL ADVISORY COMMISSION OF THE MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. January 24, 1918. Miss Lary VanKleeck, Room 301, 1330 F. St., 7fashington, D. C. 2:1 dear Miss VanKleeck: The enclosed additional reports on the Condition of the Garment Trade in Philadelphia have just been received from 1rs. Semple. She says in a letter accompanying the reports: "You will notice that they bear out the general tenor of the information contained in the earlier reports, with the exceptions arising from the fact that a larger proportion of these places are located in the better district of the city. You will notice that these reports reveal to a limited extent the practice of sub-contracting; they also in at least one instance show that "home work" is employed. In this lot of reports 33 places are covered, bringing the total in our inquiry up to 143. I feel that we may consider this a fairly representative number." Yours very sincerely, Executive Secretary. AH-DD. No. 1. January 2nd. D. Klein & Bro. 927 7,arket ,,=treet. Do custom work for officers cutting and alteration done here. Garments sent out to workshops. One woman in office and one =Aim alterations. Fire escape opening from windows on rear of building. Fire buckets and wood stairway in front of building. Sanitation good. ';ages of woman 9.O0; formerly :,!7.50 per week. Samuel Sternberger & Co., 10th & Filbert St. Mfg. shirts for Government and comnercial trade. Females employed on Government about 1604 3uilding equipped with sprinklers, water buckets and extinguishers. Fire escapes are on front of building and tvo sides. Those open from windows, and where Government is made entirely, there are three exits without steps. Sewing machines well guarded. Sanitation good, except that two toilets ventilate into building. Understood this condition will be charged. General working condition excellent. '.:omen on Government work w,q*e said to be makinF lore than those doing commercial work. Government week workers paid '9.00 and :;;10. per week. Government piece workers making an average of 0.2.00 per week. One old woman erns but :5.00 and one over '0.00 per week. Park Bros. & Crane, 10th and Filbert Sts. 4th Floor :Se. overcoats. Fire, building and sanitary conditions same as above. General working conditions good. Wages ;;14.0 to :18.50 for time workers. One button sewer earns 25.00. Machine piece workers about 25.00• About twenty-five women ameloyed. J. Rinish Contract com;oleted. Son, 1001 Filbert 3treet. No more work in view. ;. weiss, Son, 1026-28 Filbert Jtreet. Mfcr. bed sacks. Contract will be completed in two or three days. No women employed on Government work. To girls doingliniShing on dress Skirts. Nathan Faggen & Sons, 1026-28 Filbert St. This place is branch of Nathan Fagpen & Sons, 13th & Rase Ste., of which report was made on 3aturday. Commercial' work only made here. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis H. J. Altman, 1026-28 Filbert St., 6th Floor. Jan. Mfg. bed smoke. Seventeen wsnsa wad one miner girl employed. lire ***ape opening from window. No stops. Was told tiro rpt. gave order to owners of building to provide stops. General working eenditions and sanitation good. amp of work *ingests operation set WA vall side of room. Guards on =shims ussd by women., ;.:ajority of naohina operators are mu. nee workers paid sane wage as men. then full wok of fifty hours is Nato wages are fr ,)1 to Minium women wage $19.00. Newfort Mg* 0e. 1010 Rase St. Mfg. bet snake. ,bout SI finales emplOyet. lire towsr in front of building; fire *mope in rear Whisk opens *rove* window with stops leading to it. Sprinkler system sat gator blankets. ioneral working °auditions ant sanitation good. Sewing naddaass well guarded4 Madan logo for plase maws 43600 to 06.00 per week. Minions tins workers 01.001 Maxims $13.00 per vsek4 U. 3. Knitting Li1ls, 1010 Ruse St. 4th iloor. ago Arsaboro for Navy. Have just finished ooutraot and are now vatitio- for yarn, to begin new oontraot just reeeivid4 tire equipment and building oonditions sone as above. Sanitation and general working conditions swollen!. Sowing mashines guarded over shaft. Machin* operators average 0.4.0', to 412.01 per volik• Before 1ar operators averaged #9.00 to $10.00 per week. Tine workers average $9.00 to :14.0 1 per ow*. Before "ar 001 to te8.00 " Amerlean Uniform Nia. 0o. 1.20? Rase 4t. lot ffloor. Amb. for offioers' uniforms. Not over two women employed. This work is done for Jobbers. General working oonditione and sanitation good. Oeald net get definite Information as to 'ages. Said women were asking sore th.n before ar. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis January ifird. linanaker & Brown. 142T Vine jtroot. AP Trousers. Fire proof Wading. lir' tees, and fire proof stairway in front of building. Bgnipped Ida sprinklers and water buckets. Awing main.* bavo modern guards. General working eonditions good, eneept ecogestion from clothing on one floor. 3one diffioulty in getting it removed as rapidly as it ihould be. Asked several females rivirding wages* 7as told by one that per week. they could make from 420.01 to Another made '23,0; pot week. One from ,)16.0 to ,:117.01 and ono beginner ;9.00 por gook. Before inopoetion vas oemplet404 employes on the 7th floor walked out. Demanded nose mammy. Telephones to Wimp of strike saw matter wa$ at MOO placed in „T. Young's bands for investi -ation. Allen & So* 1427 Tine 3% 5* Floor. Building conditions sato ma abom :tat. ?ransom This plow, has very meently boon opened anA owing Asokinos are not yet parted, but, it is a:Tooted to have guards plasod by Januar' 15th. Congestion on this floor for reason reported above. Toilot arrangements good,. 4one diffieult, at prosont, throu0hout bwildin owning to frozen pipes. Yowl. piece ,7orkers earn to $23,00 per rvok. Trimmers on time work aro paid C:8,0') to .A.On par Imook. Bermstoin & Oo. 547 Ii• eth aItto Mig* Over0eato. Dolly 10 to 12 femolos• Piro tomer front and rourof buildt4o. Jpringler system and water buoketa. UMW drill given by Fire Department. Moans guards on wins maskinos. 3aidtstion sal compral 'auditions good* Contrast almost completed. Have nnly Intelsat work on it about two woks. Could not got satisfactor7 information regarding wages as no finales bad worked a full weak. No diffloulty in getting help. T. Alio:: 4c. Co.. 533 llth brandh of 1427 Vine Jt. ag. Ovoroosts and lrousoro. '1, .e proof building.; two firs towers; sprinklor system and fire buskets. General building conditions eaeoptionally goods deism on four *idols ot room. $ewinq nalhines plowed in short mos sith Tory vide passageweays. A groat *pavement over the usual long row. Maw, *pone, only few asp and machine guards ordored aro not yet on. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Xe. 2. aan63rd. Could t no intimation of wage, *doh vas satisfactory as place has been in operation lees than a week. Oharl9s • Shedaker & Sons, 533 n. llth 6t. Taft. Drawers. Building conditions and fire equipment same as above. ktodern guards on sevinr maohines. 4np1oyes not making as much :A on some lines of Government work. Wee told that oontrnot arias on this line of work is very low. Averse? vim 124,0) - ,Aasimum e234,0') - Minimum* except one minor Mild :SOO. 533 North Eleventh at. Girl in this building operating elevator. aeceivinp 9.00 per *Oka Promised later an increase to ,11.00 7;ot a man's Ingo, https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis lit. Jan. 7th. Llts. Given en list. Dryfous & Lando Bread 41 work and have done none. Are icing no Goverment & ,Vallase sts, &anima*, & Brown, eM Mfg. Blouses. of stairway. fire towers & fire pro uishers. Fireppeof building. Two ekets, sprinklets & exting Ins er wat & ak te e fir Also life lines, ll number of but a few data and & sma ad n 'm bee s ha nt pla s expect to have Thi g. ikon in tall operation nin run new are es hin mac rded as rapidly se asehiaes are being gua The es. bln mae 0 30 ut abo as possible. good. mise to be scooptiouslly General conditions pre on are werting. At present 30 Minimum 11141A mage $9.00 12.01 Maximo " would be $15.00 ce pie ms ni Said mi " 24.00 te 16.30. " " maximum " Antes tits. I ••orthoisie I 00. Dr0.41 ted. Tried ak has been comple Ad st tra con t men ern Gov ll found exRad a sma the place over and ked Loo . led fai but r to get anothe ry way. been offered oollent eondition in eve t sub-contract work had tha d tol ,U ve. abo Building as but refuted.. 15th & .4l1soe .4114. A. 3. arsohbana & Co. e equipment desemiled above. lir ted This is the IMMO building hers. Fire towers were lofseas uli log eld & s ket buc , sprinkler system stealing. Think s is done to prevent and keys kept near. Thi amese to prevent this. ether way should beaarr construstien with shaft . Mind, are of new 1st the s, es of ao hl mo g :win danger point. A few machin to MUM above & ss mi and d emease doing useful old style are guarded.. talled and sommed to be ins n bee ly ent res s ha a plant of the A gorse ior is very eel done for ept fte k. ma ent isi dition, in and etf as they should be, this se not s *or s let toi The nurse slim, but to the frossing Of pipes. due is nk thi I te mon,s tenets and Large par placed in charge of yom an wom a e hav to two toilets. is trying Lights are also needed in d. oa ml ar be l wil Wilk it employed. 180 to 200 females are 12.00 paid 41mimem time workers 15.00 • ° " piece 00 1(4 Aamimmm time " • 00 32 " piece " made 'taga day. 05,100 °Tomato are https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis #1st. Jam. 8th. Deruatein& Immo 22n4. & Arth street, on list, Removed free 1012 Areh ut., Addross given Doing mo Government work. t. 4uaker Robe Jompeny, 22mdm & Ardh on. :ago Znittors. *ploy about 70 extinguishers, sprinkler wet, rs, towe fire 4 . ding tire Proof Buil al conditions enooPtionally L;aohines demordsd. alugtstism & gewor good. Pim* maws earn from $12 to $25. to 06 " " " Time wore equally 800d4 work Prices formorly paid for ola darn 'by the T. .7. 0. Tort on Vocal lessens are given fasioiry. Was told that damning the in A piano and vietrola are Is also alined during the noon recess. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis aweet, Orr & Jo. Ine., 1fg. Shirts. sprinkler & hose. Are prose Wilding. Pm fire timers, on thou. done reial Sewing =Whines guarded. Jemne General emeditions good. pressing and folding. No Government work done herr except cutting, ny's faeterios. Compa at City Zewing en this work tons outside 9 women on Arqy shirts. kvereme :12.0, per week. B. Axe & 4ompaay, 1315 Cherry Street. . 3ed Seeks & 3reitehes. Maple:, from 50 to 60 women. 3oving mndbines equipped with guards. & hose. lire proof building. Sprinkler system fire towers & firs proof stairway. T Pasongowere to fire towers oongested6 very poor. Building eomditions god.. 4anitation neo to another building. maabi old ng avvi Xxonso given for this. nmobines ;12.0) time 4n. 3 ,18. Liam= Ogee workers ft II 20.00 28.0liousiamn rs rtnno 4 '. , 16.0 Abdo= Um 10.J0 " Limbos Sure fit Skirt Company, 1103 Arch Street. ed. Given On list of addressed,. Building elos Bittan. 606 :,;arket Jtreet. *Mao s" for Amer. Je . tire tower in roar water buekets. A few employes are *Loh is but seven is sliftbtly over 8 Ala gives better has too omits. tire etuipment consists of en a floor leading fren the min workroom, foot in height and tbo reem dirActly under this Thee' rooms are without doors feet high. would be expected. than n ventilatio Jan* 8th, *ad. Passage ways badly congested and sanitation net of the best. !resell pipes, in part, to blame. (apes for pie*s work vary from 08.00 to #45.01 ..er 'wok. " 1801 " " * w 7.01 * time * * :0 owing maehines guarded. aad guards were ordered. 7th .Areet. The limas Compaq., 133..437 xfg. 3reeshes. ?ire tower & /ire eseape ea roar of building* Exits to fire escapes open from windows* ae proper steps, and window sills filled with various thinftw. Building eluipped with sprinkler and later buckets. 21re drill gives by Fire Department. Sewing nashines well guarded. General working essditleas are good. Over 14,5'' finales are employed ant the two floors escapist bums but three toilets for their use. Another one could be given them but tho nueber would still be insuffieiant. Toilets were kept in anp?oye,A, as good condition as psedhle with the close of people g. plumbin poor to but wore tsr from sanitary, due, I thin, week4 par 3(401 to Magee for pieoe work varied from 0.5.0.) https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis " time ere fres " " " 12.0: to 15.11 to 64 * " * * 1 - Junnawy 9th* Omni, & Milemghlin, 601 Vine jt. Mit* Amy list Cords* *ploy tuenty-five wows (*fob** six aro westing es efovornment told that some of the work vas gives to shame worksr04, contract* 3uilding is equipped with buckets of water and a fire tower in rear. Lachinery partly guarded, but very light and with little dongsr• Gonoral conditions fair. ;4, pi!,m, workers paid C12.11 AN'IMMko 24in4 30.01 Al tine " 4.8.O0 w Gatty and Leopold, Sib, & Vine St* liver on li st. Coortereial work only. Louis YloiShor, 1217 Vine Jtreet, :4fg* 0vorooats. 4mploy thirty females. Building fire proof. tire tower an fireproof stairway. Sprinkler system and fire baskets. MaChinery ististaotorily guarded and goneral oonditions of history eatisfaatorv. .110.; per week. gax* piece .,vrkers 4 * 31t.0 Min* 422,00 " * Max. Timt 32*00 0 kin. " this work. for Faetory 'peso& S. Abrahams, Antiper & Vine St.. Given on list* Commercial work dons here and cutting* Soverament work at outside futtories* Tried to reach one or ::orth side without given. success. ()Med not boost* trots Wawa Joseph Cromer, 21042 I 13th St* =go -lifts on sub-contrast. Place is a workshop. Building fireproof and equipped with water buckets and octinguishers* Thore is a fire tower and a fireproof stairwell,* Mechinee guarded, Building conditions 0014 4an1tation poor, owing to serious illness of porter* .ffort being load* to supply his place. 1,:us..* piece workmen !WO por ve4k* 4801 “ " o time lotnissrs as finishinr is done at fluttery of contractor. Alcoa Cohen, lltb lace Stu lid*. Bad Amigo* Contract just comFAtod* lisp, to get another. Building fireproof; two towers, sprinkler system and water buckets. General conditions exceptionally good* :;achines well gu,rdoll. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 11"-tto flout 16 women ere spployed on this worx. /twos Of pie°, workers ranged fro' 414400 to ,28.0) per*ok• "lime workers were paid $10. per week. Avila said to be himhor than paid fOr the regular line uf =rice https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis kr( FoRm 12.3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRmAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN MRS COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY V. EVERIT MACY TREASURER OF THE MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY MRS. SARA A. CONBOY ADVISORY COMMISSION MiSS MARY E. McDOWELL MRS. GIFFORD FINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis MISS MARY AERSON ND MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISDA P. BRECKINRIDGE OF THE MISS FLORENCE THORNE COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK WASHINGTON, D. C. January 23, 1918. Miss Mary Van Kleeck, Room 301, 1330 2 St., Iashington, D. C. My dear Miss Van Kleeck: Mrs. Wacy telegraphed Mrs. Rockefeller yesterday about the statement in the Y. W. C. A. housing pamphlet in which it is stated that the Y. 7. C. A. Committee has been Yrs. Lacy said to Mrs. co-operating with this Committee. Rockefeller that she thought it was misleading to the publi3 and not fair to the Y. W. C. ,. to give credit to this comemittee for work in which it had had no part. Yrs. Macy is chairman of the committee for conference with Miss Nestor and Mrs. 2ield about the work in the states and she sug,;ests tnat the other members of the committee,- Miss Goldmark, Miss Abbott and yourself,- with Miss Nestor and Mrs. 2ield come to her house for lunch or I inner some day next week. Would Tuesday or 'Wednesday be I ossible for you? Mrs. Macy is writing to Secretary Roosevelt with refernce to a possible conference for next week. Yours very sincerely, AH-AB. :11xecutive Secretary. FORM 12-9 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MRS. V. EVERIT MACY TREASURER MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE OF THE MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY MRS. SARA A. CONBOY MISS MARY E. McDOWELL ADVISORY COMMISSION MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT OF THE MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. January 19, 1918. Miss Mary Van Kleeck, Room 300, 1330 2 $t., Washington, D. C. My dear Miss Van Kleeck: Miss Campbell has appointed you a member of the following committees: 1. Committee to confer with the Secretary of the I:avy regarding action on the reports already submitted, Yrs. Macy, Chairman. 2. Committee for the consideration,of the Picatinny and Jeffersonville reports when they are completed, Miss GoldmArk, Chairman. 3. Committee for Conference with doman's Committee regarding mork of the State Committees, Mrs. Macy, Chairman. 4. Committee to consider and report on the material on The Manufacture of Tents in Baltimore by Miss Guggenheimer,- Liss Goldmark, Chairman. (MLterial enclosed.) Miss Guggenheimer desires to have a special investigation made. 5. Committee to consider the material on the Garment Trade in Philadelphia, Miss Goldmark, chairman, (Material enclosed.) Yours very sincerely, fe 2ixecutive .;ecrut—r . AH-A3. PORM 12-3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT COMMITTEE ON WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. V. EVERT -1' MACY TREASURER OF THE MRS. SARA A. CONBOY MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY ADVISORY COMMISSION MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis OF THE MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. Memorandum for Miss Van Kleecks i send you herewith, a copy of the preliminary draft of the Picatinny ii.rsenal, a copy of the letter of Mr. E. C. ielton:l irector of the Department of Civilian Service and Labor for Pennsylvania and some miscellaneous notes regarding the irankford Arsenal. I doubt very much if the latter All be of any value to you. January 9, 1918. • FORM 12.3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE CIFFICERS THE OFFICERS AND MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY ANDERSON COMMITTEE ON 'MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN OF THE MRS. V. EVERIT MACY TREASURER MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. SARA A. CONISOY MISS MARY E. MCDOWELL MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY ADVISORY COMMISSION MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT OF THE MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis WOMEN IN INDUSTRY MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. January 5, 1918. hiss Mary Van Ineeck, 130 E. 22nd St., New York City. Dear Miss Van Eleeck: I am afraid the enclosed letter which was received yesterday from Yrs. Rockefeller will exhibit some of the difficulties in co-opertiting with the Y. W. C. i. Housing Committee. Our repeated attem cts to see the plans have not as yet secured for us a copy of them. Yours very sincerely, O (—e- xecutive secretary. C-O-P-Y WAR WORK COUNCIL of the NATIONAL BOARD of STIAN ASSOCIATIONS CHRI TS WOMa TF- YOUNG es of knerica Stat ed Unit of the 600 Lexington Avenue, New York City New York 10 i.est 54th Street, New York City, Januar- 3rd, 1918. Dear Liss Hewes:Railroad told us 2he 12raffic man of the Pennsylvania e that any train would ante guar that it was impossible for them to ; in fact they wouldn't time go through to '":ashin7ton in any stated as the cold had so guarantee that their trains could get through, to rush coal to New r orde nt disabled the engines, and the Governme schedules. .!e, therefore, r thei ged rran disa York had so entirely to present the letters which we telephoned Mr. Fosdick and asked him Eidlitz, and to ask them if had written to Secretary Baker and Mr. the plans before they saw them. they would object to our oublishino: name of the Committee of iiomen Of course we did not include the not care to join us without hayin Industry, as we knew you would et this, and hope that you or ing seen the Plans. We deeply regr the plans next week. de are going Miss Campbell may be able to see send to all the manufacturers to get out a booklet, which we will would allow us to use your name in in the United States, and if you much weight as it would have had with th s, I think it would have as Eidlitz. Secretary Baker and Miss Van Kleeck We have been greatly disappointed that ings. If she had been, meet of our has not been able to came to any ng that you allow us esti about sugg I should have felt differently s. seen the plan to use your name without having https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis bell the various Will you be kind enough to tell Miss Camp ssary by the weather conchanges and rearrangements made nece ssary for 1).s to do this at ditions. You may ask why it was nece campaign which unt of the Y W C once. 4e felt it essential on acco the 7th. Our advisors felt is to start in New York next Monday, raisi/v money if the public knew of that it would be most helpful in this branch of our work. Sincere y, Abby A. Rocefeller https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis January 5, 1918. Mrs. Harry Bremer, 600 Lexington Ave., New York City. Ity dear iZrs. iremer; I feel that some report should be made to you of the attempted co-operation in the matter of housing:which you tiated at the aleeting on December 4th. I regret that we do not sem to have accomplished very muCh thou...ch I cannot feel tslat thls has beet; due to any latk of Mimi Campbell and Mies effort on the part of the Committee. on December 9th conference the for York MoDovell went on to New was agreed at this conIt there. also and Xiss Van Kleeck was Secretary the to of :ar. recommendations ference to c_jointit„malj'je the secure plans which to trying Since that Time we have been your Housing Committee was then drawing up and WhiCh we were to jointly outalt. On December 15th, Miss Simms, the secretary of the Housing Committee, wrote to me that she would. send a copy of Although ileVa, housing standards after the following Tuesday. sent to have been Mrs. telegrams %ockefeller and eral letters time to see the have plans before the might in order that we January for have 4th, we not yet remeeting Tihich she arranged I enclose a copy of a letter which came yesterceived them. day from Mrs. Rockefeller. Iles Van Kleeok's inability to attend some of the meeting. mar have been due to the fact that she did not know I remember in one case a notice regardof them beforehand. ing a meeting was received at this office the day of the meettng when Wiss Van Kleeck was in New York. It does seem a great pity in a situation where so little attention is being given to the very real problems Bur.roundIng the housing of women by the 4overmment that the organizations for the welfare of women shittld not be able to join forces in the matter. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Mrs. Harry Bremer,-2- If you think there is anything left to be done in the way of co-operation with your committee, I should be very glad to know it. Yours very sincerely, Execilitive Secretary. FORM 12.3 EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OFFICERS MRS. BORDEN HARRIMAN CHAIRMAN MISS MARY EDITH CAMPBELL VICE CHAIRMAN COMMITTEE ON MRS. V. EVERIT MACY TREASURER MISS PAULINE GOLDMARK SECRETARY WOMEN IN INDUSTRY OF THE ADVISORY MISS AMY HEWES EXECUTIVE SECRETARY COMMISSION OF THE THE OFFICERS AND MISS GRACE ABBOTT MISS MARY ANDERSON MRS. FRANCES C. AXTELL MISS SOPHONISBA P. BRECKINRIDGE MRS. SARA A. CONBOY MISS MARY E. McDOWELL MRS. GIFFORD PINCHOT MISS MELINDA SCOTT MISS FLORENCE THORNE MISS MARY VAN KLEECK COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON, D. C. January 2, 191.8. Miss Mary Van Kleeck, 130 E. 22nd St., New York City. Dear Miss Van Kleeck: Miss Campbell has been having some telegraphic communication with Mrs. Rockefeller about a conference with Secretary Baker on iriday of this week. In spite of several requests we have not received any copy of the plans and the recommendations which the Y. W. C. A. Committee is to submit to the Secretary and I personally am very reluctant to go into conference with them until we have had a chance to study them and Miss Campbell until I know the opinion of the Committee regarding them. has wired me saying that she is very anxious to have us take part in the conference and has told Mrs. Rockefeller that I will go with her on iriday, but has insisted that we must know beforehand what they propose. I have just wired Mrs. Rockefeller to send the plans to you in case she has not Will you please let me know directly what attitude you done so already. think the Committee should take regarding them A great many important plans which may change the labor situation seem to De in the air and I think your arrival will be very timely. I have been asked to submit a statement outlining the functions of a possible woman's division and would very much like to have your immediate assistance in this matter which, according to Mr. Marshall, is to go before the Council very soon. If you can make a rough draft of such a statement it would be of enormous value to me. I am planning to make a flying trip to Jeffersonville tne end of this week, but hope to be back in Washington Wednesday the 9th. 11th best wishes for 1918, I am, Yours very sincerely, AH-AB. Executive Secretary. P. 3; I made with Miss McConnell an inspection of the Picatinny Arsenal at Dover last 2riday and Miss McConnell stayed in Dover to see a number of the home workers. I am hoping that we can soon have a report ready on that whole subject. The plan for a large cantonment on the reservation has been entirely abandoned.- AH. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 4-1 All communications should be addressed to "The Chief of Ordnance, U. S. Army, Washington, D. C." WAR DEPARTMENT OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ORDNANCE WASHINGTON In replying refer to No. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Home, Jounoil of ifstt..1 Dams., C. Ii811 AM - d( r ;-euess I have just receivo.i your letter of Lrnuari llth. :Is you Icnow, I have been out of town. I :lave the various enclosures includ.inr letter from 1:rs. Loul. lade which %All be turneL ov,x to our Civilian 2orsonne1 Division. I understand that plans are being !nada by that Division to help in tiya housing difficulty for the civilian employes of the Ord-Ilan co Department I think that you will hear from Capt. Van .ucen, or he will reply direct to L:rs. vidently rs. 'MOS is mistaken in her interpretation o. the letter addressed by the Council hat of 1".ationa1 Defense to the ;Avon:tors oi tatez.. women effecting letter does not sot aside the labor laws such ea Ian.. but rather limits the c ondi ti ons undc.r it suspension shall be possible. ',if course all o.:. thi:clear to you. ,Incerely yours, an ..toeca, Uk' DEPARTVENT. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Hull-House, Chicago Jan. 22nd.1918. Miss Amzjiewa.„ Committee on Women in Industry, Council of National Defense, 7Tadaington, D. C. Dear .11ss Hewes: Arsenal I am returning your report on Fran:.kford the admire lly which seems to me excellent. I specia Croway you begin with a comparison between General lvania, Pennsy of zier's statement of principles, the laws and the actual practice at the Arsenal. add to it. There is nothing important I could roam in the Your statement about women eating lunch in there were which TNT is handled puzzles me. No women that there work when I visited the room anu there was no job ary It must be that some tempor women could do. carried on while you made your visit. was requiring women would be allowed rndoubtedly if women worked there they do it now. to eat their lunch in the room, for the lien I do not I spoke to Colonel Montgomery about it, blit of handthink he was much impressed. The whole matter new their have they till ning postpo ling TNT there I am a make shall I then g, workin ment shell loading depart visit and report directly to the War Department. I believe there are two points you ought to go into more thoroughly before considering your report me, complete; first, do women actually work overti I shift. night the on second, how many women work it, to add to s poison cannot give you anything on bec-use, as usual, all that work is done by men, except for some handling of fulminate, which does occasionally The Arsenal has always dealt pretty give rise to itch. well with its itch cases, and there are few among the women, partly because they take more care to keep clean, partly because they do not come in contact with it as much as men do. Brass poisoning from polishing or buffing does not exist, only from pouring, and that is work which women never do. Lead poisoning from the use of solder is a danger, and from something in the report I gather that women do soldering. That au,P-ht to be looked into. But the important points are those of general -2_ sanitation, as you have empasized. 3incere1y yours, Alice Hamilton The daRger of fulminate itch can be used as an argument for ample washing facilities, soap, water and towels. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Y January 25, 1918. Hon. William G. 1:1cAdoo, s, Director General of the Railroad Washington, D. C. My dear 3ir: Industry is of the The Committee on Women in women in the new occupaopinion that the employment of the object of spections on the railroads should be made appointment of a ial study and recommends to you the board of experts for this purpose. some of the The Committee recognizes that strength and the to new occupations are not unsuited hand, women are r othe the general aptitude of women. On under some and ons now being employed at some occupati as those such ble, sira conditions which are clearly unde hts. y weig heav of ing necessitating the continuous lift ing work and th heal ry to This cannot be done without inju efficiency. to the Camnittee It seams of utmost importance pations in which the use on Women in Inclustry that all occu be classified with reference of women is contemplated should oyment of women and that this to the suitability of the empl the requirements of health should be done on the basis of job requirements. and with thorough knowledge of the be made It is suggested that a study should ows: as foll ons pati occu of making possible the listing https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis be 1. Occupations in which preference should given to women; 2. Occupations in Which women should, be admitted only after changes are made in Hon. :illiam G. ZcXdoo, - 2- conditions under ahich the work is done 3. Occupations in which the jobs must be fundamentally changed to render the employment of women practicable. (Such changes as the introduction of conveying machinery are contemplated.) 4. Occupations in which women should be employed under no circumstances. The Committee urges the appointment of a board composed of experts of first grade among whom should be included a woman physician, a safety expert and a person .1u-lified to report on industrial fatigue. The Comrittee offers its service:3in any way in which you can make use of it in this connection and auould be glad to submit names upon your invitation. Yours very respectflaly, 71xecutive secretary. AH-DD. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis IP-- • •4.• to our :_fter discussion it was voted to recommend plan of having a Committee on Co-Operation that it consider the e on 7/omen joint conference of representatives of the Committe Woman's Committee in Industry and the Industrial Del-art:lent of the State Cannittees issue instructions and recommendations to the the National on all work they are to carry on at the request of will re-Dort to Committees, it being understood that the states this conference. The National Committee on Women in Industry in any of the may, however, ask the states for incidental help g to the Joint inquiries it may be carrying on without referrin Conference. National It should, moreover, be understood that the make investigations Committee on 'Iomen in Industry will itself nt-owned and submit recauendations in regard to all Governme plants. Voted to refer the above recomi,endations to the Committee on Co-Operation for immediate report. MEMORANDUM 2011 MISS VAN KLET-:CK. The above is an excerpt from Miss Goldmark's minutes In a letter she says: "I underwhich we have just received. stand, of course, that the minutes of the last meeting will be considered in conference with Miss Nestor and Mrs. 2ield before I have read this paragraph the next meeting of our committee. that the statement is not said over the phone to Miss Nestor who in accordance with 'ler understanding of the agreement at the meeting. I suppose this will further delay the issuing of the minutes and the understanding of the Committees.- imy Hewes. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis :U* 1330 Aireet iebruary J. 191a. ass Amy Hewes, Ream 515, Connell sf lationi .„efense Bldg., •vaaingten, D. C. Deur ;ilea aewes: ion will recall usnding me ma inL. slade oonserniag the plans quiry from :Aso. of the urdnanes Department far assisting its :.:omen employees in finding reams la Asakingten. I smiles* a reply to this inquiry just received from the Avilian keraismol Divipion. All you send it to Lire. Slade? Zinoerely yours, VAU ILBECK, In charge Of •*omen's Division, Industrial Service 3eetien. Incl. Personal file copy. 1177 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 1330 i, 6trect .z*ebruary .ies rmy ewee, Room b15, Council of lintion 1 aohington, is • 1J15. enee riewcs Lou will recall uendixik ae ri 14-de conceruimg the ..tilatau 1Iiry irom , re. 2. L. for seeistilie ito a:ient Dep-ri nee the of urdaa if'ahtngtou. rooms ng in fivai -omen emrloyeee I enclose a relay to this inquiry .ertionnol Divijust received from the aion. ,i11 you stud it to :x4s. olAe? .;inoerely yours, la411X VAN , an ivisiOn , In charge of •omen' Industrial Service :;ection 1 incl. /- / Personal file copy. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON WOMAN'S COMMITTEE 1814 N STREET NW. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis ialgust 23, 1918. Miss Mary Van Kleeck, Director Women in Industry Service Department of Labor, Ouray Bldg. Washington D.C. My dear Liss Van Kleeck: I am sending you for your files coiAes of our recent circulars. Sincerely yours, (Mrs. Samuel B. Harding) Ixecutive Chairman Department of women in Industry Miss Agnes 1;estor, Chaiman COUNCIL OF NATIONAL DEFENSE WASHINGTON Woman's Committee 1814 N Street N.W. August 8, 1918. CIRCULAR NO. 206. STRY CIRCULAR NO. 9. DEPARTMENT OF V1OMEN IN INDU Circular No. 196. Correcting a Mis-statement in Circular No. 6. Department of Women in Industry TO THE STATE CHAIEEN OF THE DEPARTMENT OF VIOMEN IN INDUSTRY: 196, Department of Since sending out Circular No. ewe have discovered a stat llomen in Industry Circular No. 8, the Illinois Exhibit, ment in the "Voiceless Speech" from which is open to misinterpretation. British Government The statement made that, "The women", might suggest now enforces the eight-hour day for This is to explain that an eight hour day is universal. worked, it is frequently in that while eight hour shifts arc ter lengths. For example in alternation with shifts of grea s factories, weekly shifts one of the largest British munition in succession, making an of eight, nine and ten hours follow average 54 hour week. s approximately the The chart enclosed herewith give work for women in British present situation as to hours of munition factories. ' Sincerely yours, 7 i/Le,t, ./171-ari-d4 / 1r s. Samuel B. Harding) Executive Chairman Department of Women in Industry. Miss Agnes Nestor, Chairman https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 1,7 /4.4.4.1 All communications should be addressed to "The Chief of Ordnance, U. S. Army, Washington, D. C." \AMR DEPARTMENT OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ORDNANCE WASHINGTON 1333 6trelt, February 21, 191S, In replying refer to No. 1)efense 131k4., 1yteton, ,. 0. dec, I 7aave lust notioed in the minutAls of the llt.st Flreirttive Comvittne meetin(r tNp statemont that a s eoial sub-oomitteo has made -reoormendations on t3 ,1 ton J:Iport which was subrAttea by t%9 Illinois Comf . ittoe. I note that VII) rerort voss• rent to the 7/sr Departvent. It has not yot raohed my deltk. AS oopy. I it maid be oonvenient fo! me to ke,„ve e3id send ro one. s'nould ho glad ifyo By dirmotion of the . etinc ,1 111,1,1 of Or, name. V -r:7 tray y tire, _Y VA1Q P Personal File Copy https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis In ollarge 'onin'e Divivil , Industrial S 'rvioo . !.,1 AT- , / https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis TVMRA9PCI CI A N.4.! 7):DI1A1.1cIMP ":1C 1711h D3HT77.1!""io 1010Tei1lii8AW V https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis IL 11/Vag 136;.6 .L! Arcot February 21, 1918. MU* Ajri,.j7 Cmaitfi am in Industry, uounoll of :latioma1 Lefense Bldg., .;uahington, D. C. • '- dear MLA; aewe: Your latter of Pebraary 19th, SOODM,-Panying the., report oi the Curtin Jupply Company of Chicago, Ill., iu received. you not thank the Depariment of .on aad Alildren in Industry of the Illinois Council of 14-itienal .iAsfenbe for mending us this information? e shall keep it on file for the future use of the oupervisor who will be aiaJointed for that distridt. Y..leanwhile, if there are any reoommendations regarding this investigution that the Department of 'omen and Children in Industry wish to refer to us at once, we uhcil be glad to receive them. By direction of the aance. cting Chief of (4rd- 6inoerely :your, In charge of io.ien's Divicion, Industrial ;;ervice Section. eersonal file cow . f S\ Army, Washington, D. C." All communications should be addressed to "The Chief of Ordnance, U. S. WAR DEPARTMENT OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ORDNANCE 7-rtjaeg WASHINGTON SECTION 1r43,1 7 treet, Februar:i 20. 1916. In replying refer to No. 2oon 511, Council of NatiQnal Defense MIT., lishimirton, D. C. '1‘ 1:fy d.ear Hiss newe I ac;cnowledge witi. thanks the additi)nal copy of your report on the "nmplor:ent of Women at 7icatinny '4rsena1", received this morning. By direction of thl Aeting Chief of Ord. mace. Very traly yours, YARY VAN KI -7.V.7 Personal File Copy https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis In Charge roman's Division, Indlistrial Service Section. • 71/0 T ACO 710 13NLID .77HT 14C170141H2AW .44.1611041,04 .6-' i Pi https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis 14441, tot 'n1:3A ,Istict)(01 NEWS LETTER OF THE Woman's Committee Council of National Defense IDA M. TARBELL, CHAIRMAN NEWS DLPARTMENT HEADQUARTERS: 1814 N STREET NW., WASHINGTON, D. C. Dr. ANNA HOWARD SHAW, Chairman. Miss IDA M. TARBELL, Vice Chairman. Mrs. PHILIP N. MooRE, Secretary. Mrs. STANLEY MCCORMICK, Treasurer. Miss HANNAH J. PATTERSON, Resident Director. MISS MAUDE WETMORE. Mrs. CARRIE CHAPMAN CATT. Mrs. Josimi E. COWLES. Mrs. ANTOINETTE FUNK. Mrs. JOSEPH R. LAMAR. Miss AGNES NESTOR. tot SEPTEMBER 15, 1918. NUMBER TWENTY-NINE THE NATIONAL IMPORTANC.E OF WOMAN'S WORK. The establishment of the Woman in Industry Service in the Department of Labor is a recognition of the national importance of women's work. Plans for it antedated the war by eight years, and it may be said'that the importance of women's work antedated the establishment of the Woman in Industry Service some centuries. A women's bureau was asked for in 1909 by the National Women's Trade Union League to safeguard women in industry, and the request then made by wage-earning women themselves was prophetic of the larger view of women's work and of all labor which is now becoming clear. The two great needs of the Nation now are efficient and vigorous production and efficient and vigorous citizenship. The man power of the Nation is being drafted in overwhelming proportions into military service. Women must soon constitute the reserve force as well as the front line of the industrial man power. The Woman in Industry Service, called into action during the war, therefore conceives of its task not as representing the interests of women as a separate class but as expressing in all its policies the Nation's twofold need for women's work—the need for productive man power and the need for the finest type of citizenship now and in the generation to follow. A new conception of women's service as normal and essential, so long as it be wholesome and efficient in any occupation necessary to the national life, is the best promise of the new freedom for women—freedom to serve their country through their industry not as women but as workers judged by the same standards and rewarded by the same recompense as men. Protective measures necessary to safeguard health should be maintained and enlarged for women and men. They should have been extended long ago to men as well as to women, as he protection of equal citizenship and the rights of voluntary association should have been assured to women as well as to men, from the moment when they took their place in industry. Women like men should not be given tasks harmful to them because of undue demands upon muscular and nervous.endurance. Women differ from men in physical capacity, but so also do men differ from one another in the work which it is physically safe for them to undertake. The great task now is not to set apart women from industry, but to apply the medical and engineering knowledge of the country to making all work safe and healthful for the men and women who are producing for the Nation's needs. The challenge of the Nation to industry and labor at this time is to make industry safe and healthful, democratic and just, not in the interest of any one group, men or women, capital or labor, but because a Nation's crusade for freedom imperatively requires it. The present stage of the crusade is war and production for the war. The next stage will be reconstruction and new growth. Upon thelfoundation of economic justice to all citizens must the new state be built. Director of the Woman in Industry Service, United States Department of Labor. 81949-18 https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis -r A service which though not newly created, has been WOMEN IN THE WAR LABOR ADMIN- reorganized and expanded rapidly within recent ISTRATION. months, is the Woman's Division c f the United States That American women must enter industry in increasing numbers becomes more apparent each day. Up to the • present time the indications are that replacement of men by women has not taken place to any considerable extent in this country, nor have the ranks of wage-earning women been materially augmented. The operation of the new draft law, including as it does all men between the ages of 18 and 45, must inevitably alter materially the industrial situation. Millions of men will be withdrawn from the work of •production and this at a time when the United States Employment Service announces (Aug. 27) that the country is faced with a shortage of approximately 1,000,000 unskilled laborers in the war industries and an equally serious shortage in the skilled trades. It is fortunate indeed that we are not facing this situation unprepared. Forewarned by the experience of our allies, the War Labor Administration of the United States Government has given increasing recognition to the interests of women workers. New services have been organized to meet the new needs and others already organized have been greatly expanded. A large number of women of wide experience in their respective fields have been appointed to responsible positions in the various departments under the labor administration. Indeed scarcely a day passes without some interesting development in connection with woman's position in the field of industry. Of the new services perhaps the one most significant of the importance which women's work and welfare is assuming in the national consciousness, is the Woman in Industry Service of the Federal Department of Labor. To this service has been committed the task of coordinating the work for women in all of the divisions of the Department of Labor and in the industrial service sections of other departments. To this end the service is intrusted with the formulation of policies and methods which will aid in making women's work more productive and which will at the same time preserve national standards of well being and safeguard the coming generation. How broad and forward looking is the conception of this service, is apparent in the statement of the director, Miss Mary Van Kleeck, which forms the front page of this News Letter. Miss Van Kleeck brings to the Woman in Industry Service both scientific training and practical experience in the handling of industrial problems. She was formerly engaged in industrial research for the Russell Sage Foundation. When the Woman's Branch of the Industrial Service Section, Ordnance Department, was organized in January, she was appointed chief and conducted that work until the recent establishment of the Woman in Industry Service of the Department of Labor. She has a most able assistant in Miss Mary Anderson, who was also associated with her in the Ordnance Department. Miss Anderson has that first-hand knowledge of industrial conditions and sympathetic understanding of the working woman's point of view which comes from years of actual factory work. She is widely known among trade-union women as a member of the executive board of the International Boot and Shoe Workers' Union and national organizer for the Woman's Trade Union League. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Employment Service. The President's order giving the United States Employment Service exclusive control of the recruiting of unskilled labor for war industries, has been interpreted as including women workers as well as men. It is the expectation that the order will in the near future be extended to cover skilled work also. The service, however, does not confine its efforts to placing workers in war industries but endeavors to meet the needs of all classes of workers and employers, in so far as is compatible with the national war program. Mrs. Margaretta Neale, Chief of the Women's Division, has been with the Employment Service since its inception. She served as acting superintendent for New Jersey when the service was under the jurisdiction of the Bureau of Immigration. When reorganization took place last January, Mrs. Neale became superintendent of the women's division of the main New York City office. She was later made assistant superintendent of the district comprising New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut. From this position she was transferred in July to Washington to have national charge of the employment of women. Miss Melinda Scott, who was an associate with Miss Nestor on the recent labor mission to England and France, has been appointed a special representative of the Employment Service. Miss Scott is chairman of the department of women in industry of the woman's committee of New Jersey. Her industrial experience began at the age of 13 and she has worked in many factories since then. She was formerly president of the Hat Trimmers' Union and is now vice president of the National Women's Trade Union League. The Conditions of Labor Service which will deal with the questions of safety, sanitation, and other working conditions has as its assistant director Miss Florence C. Thorne. Miss Thorne a member of the Newspaper Writers' Union, and of the Women's Trade union League, has been for several years assistant to Mr. Samuel Gompers, in editing the "American Federationist." Miss Gertrude Barnum, assistant director of the Investigation and Inspection Service, is a labor journalist. She has been for 20 years actively connected \vith the trade-union movement among women. She assisted in the organization of some of the earliest women's unions in Chicago and more recently has been an organizer for the International Ladies Garment Workers' Union. She has interested herself especially in securing the arbitration of industrial disputes, in particular the protocol in the garment trades. A still more recent development is the addition of women to the staffs of the War Labor Policies Board, the War Labor Board, and the Railroad Administration. Miss Grace Abbott, formerly director of the Immigrants' Protective League of Chicago, and later director of the Child Labor Division of the Children's Bureau, has been appointed research consultant of the War Labor Policies Board. Miss Abbott is a member of the Federal Employees' Union and of the Women's Trade Union League. The War Labor Board announced on August 27 the establishment of a Women's Department with two divisions. One, the Division of Examiners, is under Miss Marie L. Obenauer, industrial chairman National (2) All League for Women's Service. This division will make investigations of plants coming under the jurisdiction of the War Labor Board and report to the board. When awards are made representatives of the division will go to the plants and enforce the rulings. The other, the Division of Field Representatives, is in charge of Miss Elizabeth Christman, of Chicago. Miss Christman is secretary-treasurer of the International Glove Workers' Union and a member of the executive board of the Chicago Women's Trade Union League. Her division has the duty of preparing the cases of women for presentation to the board, informing them of their rights, and putting their petitions in proper form. Most recent is the creation on August 29, of a Woman's Service Section of the Division of Labor, United States Railroad Administration. Miss Pauline Goldmark, secretary of the National Consumers'League,has been appointed manager. The Washington Post announces that "she will give especial consideration to the employment of women telegraphers, station agents, clerks, crossing watchers, and even track laborers." In the Woman's Branch of the Industrial Service Section, Ordnance Department, Mrs. Clara Tead has succeeded Miss Van Kleeck as director. Mrs. Tead has been a supervisor in this department since its organization in January. She formerly worked with the firm of Valentine, Tead & Gregg, industrial advisers, and is the wife of Mr. Ordway Tead, a.writer and lecturer on labor problems. The assistant director of the Woman's Branch is Mrs. Lois B. Rantoul, of Boston. Mrs. Rantoul was also associated with Mr. Valentine, of Valentine, Tead & Gregg, making studies of the relations between output and hours of work. She is second vice president of the Boston Women's Trade Union League. To coordinate these various divisions dealing with labor problems as they relate to women, Miss Van Kleeck, director of the Woman in Industry Service, has organized a Women's Council, which meets weekly.. The council is composed of women representatives from each of the divisions of the Department of Labor and from the industrial service sections of other departments. • It also includes a representative from the committee on women in industry of the Advisory Commission and from the department of women in industry of the Woman's Committee, Council of National Defense. Miss Van Kleeck as a member of the War Labor Policies Board, brings the recommenda- • tions of this Women's Council before the policies-making body of the unified War Labor Administration. In General Orders No. 13 of the Ordnance Department,in the policies adopted by the War Labor Policies Board and in the general principles guiding the action of other departments, the United States Government is raising labor standards which can be accepted with enthusiasm by the workers of the country. The support of every public-spirited citizen should be enlisted to uphold these standards in deed as in word,that maximum production may be secured for the period of the war and that in the exigencies of war there may be preserved the democracy for which our armies are fighting. Executive Chairman, Woman in Industry Department, Woman's Committee. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis SAFEGUARDING THE WORKERS. The women of our country are responding to the calls of the Government and doing so generously and earnestly. There are many ways in which women can serve at this time and through the departments of women in industry in the States they can be useful and meet a particular need. Surely no phase of our national life is more important to-day than the industrial field. We are depending upon the wheels of industry moving to supply our munitions of war. The women are eager to do their part. They are going into war industries and replacing men called to military service. The women want to do their part, but they must be dealt with fairly and not used as "cheap labor." When a woman replaces a man she should receive the same wages for the same work and wherever she is doing the same work as men she should receive the same pay. The women must not be used as under:Adders or in any way lower our industrial standards. Women must not be employed under conditions that will be harmful to their health. "Health is wealth to a nation and this will react on the Nation itself. The policy of the Government has been to maintain industrial standards, to have democracy in industry at home while the men are fighting to make the world safe for it. But does the country know and understand these policies? Under the national war labor administration, labor policies are being adopted in the different branches of service and the country must be guided by these. The department of woman in industry under the Woman's Committee of the Council of National Defense will transmit to the woman of the country through the state departments of women in industry these policies and such other important information and documents as they should be familiar with. We ask the state divisions of the Woman's Committee to be on guard in each state and see to it that all women are informed regarding these policies and that their activities are properly directed. They can help in the enforcement of these policies by informed public opinion. The women of each State must prevent any misinterpretation of these policies and be on guard to prevent any repeal of the safeguards already surrounding the employment of women. Additional safeguards are needed and we have learned from Great Britain that working long hours does not pay. To have efficiency and production, men and women must not work too long hours. The industries in each State should be measured by the standards known as Orders No. 13, issued by the Ordnance Department. There is much to be done to safeguard our women workers and every woman is called upon in this service. Chairman, Women in Industry Department, Woman's Committee. Americans in Path have already unpacked their native humor in the French capital. They call the telephone girl" Mademoiselle pa. libre," Miss Busy.— From the Foreign News Bureau. (3) SENT FROM WASHINGTON. WE WISH TO ANNOUNCE— The plan of cooperation between the department HOSPITAL ASSISTANTS. of woman in industry and the recently created Division of the United States Department The Dean of the Army School of Nursing has asked Women's is of Labor transmitted in Circular No. 211, published Defense, National the Woman's Committee, Council of by of woman in industry for its the department information country, the of women the to to transmit of the relationship of A description chairmen. State hospital for in regard to the Surgeon General's calf to handle problems related to council the organized assistants. to the various bodies represented This work is open to single women between 35 and women in industry is embraced in the circular. With its in personnel, 40, and 21 between women 45 years of age, or married this circular goes a concise statement of the GovernApplications service. s over-sea in are husbands whose attitude on employment of women as outlined of candidates who are eligible for enrollment in the ment's War Labor Policies Board. Also a report of by the conbe not will Reserve Nurse Student United States of the National War Labor Board in the the findings be to are assistants sidered. The services of hospital Steel case. Bethlehem such receive will They • only. country given in this training as is necessary to make them useful assistants to graduate nurses in military hospitals to which are The department of educational propaganda ansent wounded and convalescent soldiers. Their train- nounces the appearance and objectives of the Truth ing will not lead to a degree of graduate nurse. Can- Series, in Circular No. 213. Truth Series No. 1, didates must be women of good health and character, which gives definite facts to combat indefinite Gerand they must be graduates of a high school or present man falsehoods, is inclosed. a certificate of equivalent education. SURVEY OF COOKED FOOD AGENCIES. A survey of agencies for the sale of cooked foods to be consumed away from the place of sale is being made by the food production and home economics department of the Woman's Committee, working in collaboration with an advistory committee. The plan of the survey in general is to collect all available data regarding such enterprises in the United States and abroad, those which have been developed in Europe since 1914, and those which are started here as a result of the war. An attempt is being made to estimate the economy in materials, labor, and money, secured by the wholesale preparation of cooked food, as compared with household preparing of food. It is hoped that a disinterested answer may be given to many of the questions which arise concerning the practicability of cooperative feeding in the United States. The matter of children's health centers is the special topic treated in Circular No. 214, recently issued to the child welfare chairmen of the State divisions by the department of child welfare. Where such centers exist, the weighing and measuring tests prove that the children are in better condition than in places having no such center. Attached to the circular is a leaflet, which presents details concerning the establishment, maintenance, and equipment of such centers. Educational propaganda chairmen of the State divisions are addressed in Circular No. 215 on the matter of using their influence to have all clubs and societies lay aside, wholly or in part, their ordinary programs and substitute some of the subjects given in a revised copy of Circular No. 68-A,"An Outline for Study in Clubs." Attached thereto is a copy of the revised circular, which has undergone some omissions and additions, and contains a fuller list of reference. Exterminating the Rat. Cooperating with the plans inaugurated by the Biological Survey of the United States Department Information regarding the releasing of the news of Agriculture, the department of food production combat to effort an in aid from the news department is transmitted stories will economics home and national indifference on the subject of rat extermina- through Circular No. 216 to the State chairmen of the tion. "Rat proofing" campaigns have been carried Woman's Committee. It carries Circular No. 217 on successfully in several cities of this country, nota- (News Department Circular No. 20) as an inclosure, bly in those seaports through which ships were likely and this in turn has attached to it press release No. to bring in rodents infected with the bubonic plague. 27, which is a list of Do's and Don'ts from the Bureau This campaign will be under the supervision of the of War Risk Insurance. director of extension of the colleges of agriculture, to whom the state arid local organizations of the Information concerning the availability of the offiWoman's Committee are being asked to pledge their cial brassard for those who have lost kinsmen in acheartiest cooperation. tion is transmitted to the State chairmen through Circular No. 218. A copy of a letter addressed to the Middle West•Conference. local units of the Woman's Committee and the chapters of the American Red Cross by Dr. Anna H. Shaw 14, 13 and chairmen and September on Chicago, In Henry P. Davidson, is inclosed. and representatives from the women in industry departdivisions a State assembled of for ments of a group A letter from Dr. Anna Howard Shaw to the State conference on matters related to their work. Miss of the Woman's Committee appealing for the in chairmen of woman Industry Agnes Nestor, chairman achieving a complete registration for the toward Woman's aid Committee, and Mrs. the of department Samuel B. Harding, executive chairman of this de- new draft of 18 to 45 years of age, forms Circular No. 219. partment, attended the conference. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis (4) min FOOD ORDERS-SEPTEMBER 15 TO OCTOBER 1. WHAT THE STATES ARE DOING. WOMEN IN INDUSTRY. . CONTINUING WHEAT CONSERVATION. The food administrators of the United States, England, France, and Italy have recently made a survey of their combined food resources. It appears that in order to maintain enough supplies and reserve stocks, conservation of wheat flour must continue throughout the coming year. The allies have agreed to use a bread composed of 80 per cent wheat flour and 20 per cent of some other grain. We should join with them in this and not use more than 80 per cent of wheat in our bread. The United States Food Administration will continue to rely largely on voluntary. action to insure the success of this measure. It is confidently expected that householders will mix at least 20 per cent substitute cereals with the wheat flour they use at home. The chief substitutes will be barley flour, corn flour, and corn meal. Corn flour is the ideal corn substitute for wheat, but there is an insufficient supply of corn flour available. It is therefore necessary to include corn meal in the list of substitutes. Corn meal is to be used for quick breads and breakfast cereal. It should be purchased in addition to the 20 per cent purchase required in combination with 80 per cent wheat flour. This is a necessary measure for the conservation of wheat. Housewives are urged to continue the normal household consumption of corn meal for other purposes than in combination with wheat flour. New regulations will provide for the distribution and marketing of a mixed flour, called "Victory Mixed Flour," purchasable for household use. Where retailers sell straight wheat flour they will be required to sell 20 per cent of some other cereal flour to the same customer. All bakers' bread, of course, will contain 20 per cent substitutes. The old 50-50 rule is therefore superseded. The retailer must now sell 1 pound of barley flour, corn meal, or corn flour to each 4 pounds of wheat flour. He must carry at least one of these substitutes in stock, and.he may not force any other substitutes in combination upon the buyer. In some localities where other substitutes are available the retailer may wish to carry them in stock and the consumer may wish to purchase them. Under these circumstances the following substitutes in combination of 1 pound of substitute to 4 pounds of wheat flour may be sold at the request of the customer. Fererita flour and meals, rice flour, oat flour, kaffir flour, milo flour, peanut flour, bean flour, potato flour, sweet potato flour, and buckwheat flour. Pure rye flour or meal may be sold as a substitute, but must be sold in proportion of at least 2 pounds of rye to 3 pounds of wheat flour. In London a certain wounded Tommy spends his hours away from the hospital in riding around town on the bus of which his wife is the conductress. She has kept the family together since he went to the front.—From the Foreign News Bureau. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Replacement in New Jersey. The vice chairman of the New Jersey division of the women in industry department tells of a special study of the replacement of men by women that is being made in her State. She adds that it is difficult to secure accurate figures because the employment of women in new industries and in positions formerly filled by men is largely experimental, and changes from day to day. "Women are now to be found winding armatures, operating lathes, drill presses, tapping and other machines, running elevators, Working in glass factories, tending gates at railroad crossings, acting as conductors and guards on electric trains, switch tenders, machinists' helpers, and messengers in railroad yards. Two firms manufacturing high explosives now employ over 6,000 women. They need twice that number. Several hundred are working in airplane factories, a new industry in this State. The Public Service Corporation is employing hundreds of women as conductors and the number is rapidly increasing. In spite of the fact that the War Labor Policies Board considers this an unfit employment for women until conditions as to hours and rest rooms are standardized, many women prefer this employment to work in factories. Inspection of many plants where Government work is done has been made by Federal investigators at the request of the committee of women in industry and an inspection of homes where work is done for the Government was made by the secretary of the Consumers' League of New Jersey whose services were loaned by the league. The transportation problem is a serious one, not only in rural districts but in industrial centers as well.. An appeal was sent to the Public Service Corporation urging that an increased number of cars needed by. workers in industrial plants be put in operation during rush hours. This has been done. The department at the same time offered cooperation in carrying on a propaganda urging shoppers not to use cars during these same hours. "The New Jersey Department of Labor has shown a gratifying confidence in the work done under the department of women in industry, by requesting that the chairman and vice chairman visit the plants needing workers and report conditions to the commissioner before an appeal for workers for these plants shall be sent out." Minnesota Industrial Survey. An industrial survey of women employed outside of the home is being undertaken throughout the whole State of Minnesota, under direction of the department of women in industry, in cooperation with the Bureau of Women and Children, Department of Labor. Most of the work in connection with the making of this survey is being done by volunteers, although the women factory inspectors of the State are assisting and directing in this work. In addition to the report on the personnel of the workers and data concerning the family, etc., there are subdivisions of this survey which carry information as to hours of work for women and children, sanitation of the plants in which they are employed, and a special survey of women who have replaced men. (5) A New Bureau. Believing that the peculiar problems created by the entry of women into new branches of industry during the war, demand a special body to attempt their solution, the industrial commission of the State of New York has created a new bureau of women in industry. A petition urging this action had been sent to the commission by the women in industry department of the state division of the Woman's Committee. Miss Nelle Swartz, the chief of the bureau created by the industrial commission, was formerly secretary of the department of women in industry of the New York State division. The creation of this bureau, it is believed, will be not only a distinct advantage to the working women of the State, but will also aid the employers who for the fir8t, time are confronted with the necessity of employing women in new occupations and new processes. Diversified Work in Wisconsin. The women in industry department of the Wisconsin division has had two definite types of work given to it during the summer months. To this department in each county of the State was delegated the responsibility of furnishing volunteers to do industrial classification for the draft board. Reports received from 56 counties of the State showed that in 35 counties a committee of women from the department of women in industry assisted the draft boards, 1,340 women having given 6,000 hours of service. This does not take account of the work done by the women of Milwaukee. In this city 700 women assisted the work of the draft boards and answered altogether more than 3,000 calls. The second piece of work was of a quite different character. In the 27 counties of the State where pea canneries operate, the chairman of the department of women in industry was asked to furnish emergency help if it should be needed in the canneries, so that the hours of labor for the regular workers should not be lengthened. It was promised that such emergency workers should receive the usual pay per hour given for the kind of work done. The chairman of the department in each of the counties where canneries existed, interviewed the canners on the subject of this help and promised that adequate help would be secured. Statement of Principles. The Kansas war board, created at the suggestion of the department of women in industry of the Kansas division, makes the following statement of the general principle to which the board will adhere: "The exigency of war has created, and will doubtless continue to create, a tendency on the part of employers to ignore the rulings of the industrial welfare commission heretofore adopted and to appeal to the commission for a suspension of these rulings during the continuance of the war. We believe that such a disposition on the part of employers is unwarranted and unwise, and detrimental to the best interests of the women workers of the State. It interferes with the maximum production of war supplies and is not to the best interests of the Nation in the prosecution of its war program." https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis Investigation and Inspection. The following reports come from the women in industry department of the Indiana division:"We have investigated reports of overtime and improper working conditions in factories of the State, and with the aid of the State woman factory inspector, who is vice chairman of this committee, many of these conditions have been corrected. One large factory doing war work, whose plant is some distance from the city, had difficulty on account of poor street-car service, in getting its employees to the plant. In order to overcome this, the factory operates a number of cars morning and night, and has put young women on the cars as conductors. These conductors are women who are also employed at the factory. The State council of defense has passed a resolution to the effect that the State chairman of the woman's division shall, at the request of the Indiana Board of Industries, appoint a committee of three in each community to assist the State factory inspector." Upholding Standards. "The increase of women in industrial occupations necessitates, in the opinion of this committee, an additional number of inspectors employed in the State board of labor and industry," is the report of the Massachusetts committee on women in industry. "A special committee of the legislature was appointed to consider the advisability of having these additional inspectors, and the chairman of the women in industry department appeared before this body and urged the passage of a bill granting additional inspectors. Five new inspectors for factories were appointed as a result of this hearing. The committee is also engaged at present with collecting data for exhibits concerning women in industry, to be displayed at State fairs. In these exhibits this committee 4dvocates a system whereby the attention of women is called to various industrial occupations now existing in Massachusetts, together with hours of labor, wages paid, where employment may be secured, and other necessary information. Arrangements have been made whereby the standards of the committee will be prominently displayed. An earnest effort has been constantly made by this committee to discourage the employment of women until we were assured that the man power in the fields of labor thrown open to women were exhausted. We have also endeavored to dissuade the woman intent on 'doing her bit'through choice and not necessity from becoming a competitor with those girls whose employment is to themselves an economic necessity. . In this we have called especial attention to the flow of labor caused by women working at seasonal trades and have advocated that women so employed be changed from one form of labor to another, so as to keep actively at work over as long a period of time as possible. In all its efforts the Massachusetts committee on women in industry has been working in close harmony with the Massachusetts committee on public safety and has also obtained the cooperation of existing State boards and other organizations devoted to the interests of labor, including the Massachusetts State branch of the American Federation of Labor." (6) Colored Women in Industry in Chicago. "According to the last available census, about 3 per cent of white women continue to be wage earners alter they marry. About 26 per cent of the married negro women continue to be wage earners, although almost the only way in which the colored women could obtain entrance into a trade has been by scabbing in time of strikes, or by underbidding their white sisters, as their white sisters have underbidden the men workers." This is the striking statement made in a report sent in by the chairman of the Illinois subcommittee on colored women in industry. This report goes on to state three things which this subcommittee has been able to accomplish. First, it has developed cordial relationship with the national and with the Chicago Women's Trade Union League, and with the help of these organizations, conferences were arranged between leaders of the colored people and leaders of the State and city federations of labor. Second, the committee directed its energy toward finding new lines of employment suitable for colored women, into which they might go without lowering standards of work and pay. They also cooperated with the national Woman's Committee in doing definite educational work along trade-union lines, with groups of colored women workers. The third line of work undertaken by the committee was in securing day nursery care for the children of colored working mothers. New Committees. A workers' committee has been formed as a subcommittee of the women in industry department of the Rhode Island di‘ision. Through this committee thousands of workers can be kept in touch with the plans and work of the department. Copies of the laws of.the State in simplified form concerning labor are being cueiiiated and every girl is asked to report to the cha Irina n the violation of any of these laws. Through the cooperation of the factory inspectors, the reported violations are quickly investigated and, if verified, are stopped. The eventual object of the workers' committee is to have thousands of mill workers sufficiently informed concerning the laws and necessity for their enforcement to constitute themselves inspectors and to report violations. A second subcommittee, one on tests, is also a part of the women in industry department of the Rhode Island division. The tests are used before and after the day's .work. They are, now being given to women farmers in the State and will soon be applied to elevator girls, workers in metal trade factories, and all workers in dangerous munitions plants. Protection for Women on Railroads. A protest has been sent to the Director General of Railroads by the women in industry department of the Ohio division, stating that the recommendations of the railroad wage commission in regard to pay for women are not being carried out. "Women are used to undercut men," this report states. "They are now employed in freight yards and roundhouses for 22 cents an hour, while men are paid 30 cents an hour for the same work. Serious and fatal accidents are frequent." In Toledo, the department reports, where the majority of freight handlers are colored women, their hours have been reduced from 60 and 68 a week to 50 a week, since the Government took over the railroads. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis REGULATION OF DAY NURSERIES. "Early in the year this division went on record as opposing the establishment of day nurseries, feeling at that time that young women with small children should not as yet enter industry, if it could be avoided," says a report from the Ohio department of women in industry. "In Cleveland we have had constant, reports of the establishment of small home nurseries, where women who wished to go into the factories could leave their children with some older woman neighbor. Thus 'many children are left in charge of one woman and kept in small homes, under bad conditions, with absolutely no supervision." This report goes on to tell of a factory nursery "where con. ditions were perfectly shocking." The factory frankly admitted that their reason for running the nursery was to call back their skilled weavers who had been married. The women pay 25 cents per day for each child in the nursery and only the most skilled workers were allowed to keep their children there. The children were crowded into upstairs rooms; there was no outdoor playground, no medical examination for entrance, no medical supervision, no trained nurse in charge. The children were pale, dirty, and sickly looking. Many had boils and sores on their bodies. They were fed with food and milk from the regular factory restaurant. It is stated that there is in Cleveland a day nursery and kindergarten association that controls almost all the nurseries throughout the city. This association, in conjunction with the Cleveland women in industry department of the Woman's Committee, has drawn up a day nursery ordinance, patterned on the New York and Chicago ordinance, and presented it to the city council. The report concludes with these words:"We think the passing of this ordnance the very best possible way of discouraging married women with young children from going into factories. It will mean that factories will find it very difficult to establish nurseries, as strict requirements for medical supervision, adequate buildings, and nurses in attendance will be enforced. It will cut out the small home nursery. We know there are 20 such nurseries now in existence in this city, and we are learning of more every day. The committee of course realizes that it may have to revise its point of view concerning women in industry as the war continues, but for the present at least we strongly believe that married women with young children should not work, and when the time comes that they are needed in the factory this ordnance will at least assure them of decent places to put their children in the day time. If this plan works well in Cleveland, we shall try to see it Tread throughout the State." The committee on colored women in industry, which is a subcommittee of the Illinois division department of women in industry, has been interested in securing day nursery care for the children of the colored working mothers. Since there has been substantially no provision made in the past for such care, the committee felt that the establishment of standardized nurseries for colored children might, prove an effective device for educating certain neighborhoods in proper methods of .child- care. Conferences were held with the committee on day nurseries, and the League on Urban Conditions Among Negroes. Out of these conferences grew a special joint committee on day nursery care for colored children. One nursery has been opened and plans for two others are under way. (7) "Essential standards ot a aay nursery" is the selfexplanatory caption of a list of requirements which has been officially adopted by the New York center of the Day Nursery Association, and sent out as steps toward the ideal for which the department on housing and day nurseries of the Connecticut women's division of the State council of defense is striving. The increasing number of women going into factories and other shops has aroused more than a lukewarm interest in the places where the children of these new workers are forced to spend their days. The New York center includes the day nurseries of New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut,and no nurseries are accepted as members unless they have signified that they have accepted the essential standards or are endeavoring to do so. In Connecticut there exists no ordinance with regard to the regulation of day nurseries and an effort will be made by the State division committee on day nurseries to get one passed at the next legislature, since without such a law it is impossible either to raise the standards of such existing nurseries or to prevent the establishment of improperly equipped and unsupervised nurseries. In Chicago such an ordinance has been passed, one is under way for Massachusetts, whose chairman writes: "At the request of our committee, the State committee on public safety has set aside a sufficient sum of money for an investigation of the Massachusetts day nurseries, and we are now engaged upon that task. There is, at present, no method of regulating day nurseries in this state. They may be started anywhere, in tenement houses, or working establishments; under proper medical supervision, or without any medical supervision. This investigation is being conducted for the purpose of obtaining data to help the committee to later draft competent legislation for the establishment of such institutions." After an unsuccessful attempt, another effort is to be made to have such an ordinance for Pennsylvania. The following is a copy of "Essential Standards for a Day Nursery": 1. Hygienic plumbing. 2. Walls, ceilings, floors must be finished so as to be washable. 3. Examination of child by physician before entrance. 4. Examination of children by physician once a month, stripped if possible. 5. Investigation of case before entrance. 6. Thorough investigation of cases where exceptional. 7. All children should be given two meals a day. 8. All children should wear nursery aprons, and infants be dressed in nursery clothes where possible. 9. Dietary recommended by federation should be used. 10. Separate towels, spoons, etc., for each child Obligatory. 11. Only 8 infants or 16 roundabouts should be under the care of one attendant. A kindergarten teacher should have an assistant for more than 30 children. 12. Simple records of each child must be kept. Annual report should be printed following suggestions of federation. https://fraser.stlouisfed.org Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis CHILD WELFARE. Country Child Versus City Child. Complete vindication of scientific methods as opposed to the old-fashioned ideas of "letting nature take its own course" in the business of rearing children has been made through the statistics published by the child welfare department of the Minnesota division. Percentage averages are given of all available figures regarding the health defects of the child reared in the country as compared with those of his city cousin. These statistics show that in the instance of malnutrition alone, 16 per cent of the country children are below normal against 7.65 per cent below normal for the city-dwelling child. It is further stated that the present physical inferiotity of the country child is due to the rural prejudice against "new fangled"notions. City mothers do not entertain this L entiment, and in the toothbrush brigades or nailcleaning drills which they enforce they have done a large part toward making the city a safer place to live. The draft for the American Army added evidence to this conclusion, for the city boy passed higher physical tests than the boy who had lived in ignorance of scientific health training. Child-Labor Legislation. To help keep the young children out of the cotton mills and to regulate conditions under which older children may be employed now that the Federal childlabor law has been declared unconstitutional, the women of the North Carolina division are planning to cooperate with the Southern Manufacturers Association in a campaign to have the general assembly pass an adequate child-labor law for the State. Following Up the Work. As a result of the interest in child welfare, aroused by the child welfare department of the State divisior and the Mothers' Congress in Texas, a kindergarten association has been formed at Texarkana. The objective is to have a free kindergarten in the schools, so that not only the health but the early education of the boy or girl may be directed into proper channels. Play and the Demonstration Agent. The idea of patriotic play week will be brought to the attention of the home demonstration agents at their annual meeting held at Tallahassee, Fla., during the first two weeks of September, by the child welfare department of the State division. It is hoped that through these agents enthusiasm would be aroused to have supervised play continued throughout the whole year. A Fortune for Play. New Jersey's department of child welfare in the ate division has been invited to assist in the wise and efficient expenditure of $25,000 which the State has appropriated to increase the health and education of its rising generation. A definite plan is to be outlined for best means of using the money which has been available since July 1 of this year. (8 : 1918 WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
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